3D Printed Cages for Silica Desiccant
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- @MihaiDesigns recently uploaded a short video where he shows a small cage to contain desiccant, and then he puts a few of those inside of a dryfeeder that he's working on. I really liked that idea, and I wondered if you can dry the desiccant while it's still inside the cage. It turns out the silica dries fine at 80C in a food dehydrator, where the usual recomendation is 120C in the oven. I'm not sure if an oven would work with these cages, I guess if you print them in polycarbonate it would work.
Mihai’s video: • Keeping it dry. Silica...
Relevent Reddit thread: / using_gyroid_infill_as...
See more of my work here:
Instagram: / creo_nova
Website: www.creonova.nl/
Just found this channel thanks to Mihai and it's a treasure! You are very smart and knowledgeable. Hope you find more time in future to continue with this channel. :)
Thanks, that might happen in the near future. It feels a bit alien because I haven't done it for so long though.
@@antalz if you just print random knicknacks we will all watch
@@antalz It's a crime that you stopped making videos. Found your channel a few days ago and already watched almost every video (including unpopular ones with hundreds of views). Incredibly high-quality material presentation with deep knowledge.
Despite your channel pretty small and you may decide that it growth slowly so it not worth your effort to keep up, please, keep doing some stuff here, keep teaching people, you are pretty good at it!
great choice to put it into containers, indeed much easier to handle :)
Maybe when I have this finished I'll print more PETG, I notice that I just can't be bothered recharging the desiccant and then drying the filament. I got the north sea about 3 kilometers to my right, so that 50% humidity shown in the video is basically every day here.
Who knows maybe I'll also print more PC and nylon
dude you did not upload any new video recently, hope everything be okay
I'm completely okay luckily, but lately I've been working on a full-time contract, so unfortunately I have no time to make videos. I hope to get back into the swing of things early next year. First video will probably be evaluating how this thing works, and honestly it's quite promising! It stayed properly dry for about a month.
Cool one! I like the idea of making the base/walls out of infill. I wish there was a way of exporting files from a slicer to be used in another slicer where I could choose to only export the top/bottom layer numbers for example and infill as settings. 3mf destroys any local settings; I don't like it.
Yeah it seems like all the slicers have their own names and conventions for settings, so I don't think there's any interoperability between them. Kindof a shame, I never used .3mf files for anything really, I don't see the point. What would you like to achieve by moving files between slicers?
@@antalz I mean between the same slicer. So I can set the box to only be printed with infill at the bottom for example and share it like that. Someone would download it and open in their slicer and the box would still print with only infill at the base.
Where did you buy the silica gel from?
I got these loose beads from silica-gel-shop.nl, and I also got nylon bags with desicant from VidaXL.nl. In the latter case you can't see whether the desicant is dry or not. Both store are Dutch, but I think you can get them from Amazon too, amazon.nl has them.
@@antalz Thank you very much! I've been looking for a good place to get it from for ages!
The CAD work would be great to see!
It's already done unfortunately, and I haven't recorded it. I can do a quick narrated replay of the timeline I think, that might help.
Hi, hope you are doing well. Your videos have the best explanations of advanced designing concepts across all youtube. I would love to see a video about designing offset hypoid gears.
Please make rack gear
I'm not totally sure what you mean, I have a tutorial on gear racks here: ua-cam.com/video/X0TYejSjE-E/v-deo.html
I left my PLA rolls in the basement for a couple of years until I had space to setup my printer.
I was expecting the filament to me all moisture ridden, but I can't find any signs of the pla needing it!
Is this even necessary for PLA? I was told years ago that most plastic filament absorbs humidity and pop during printing.
I don't think it is true. Maybe it's the brand or the new PLA chemistry doesn't get affected by humidity in the air.
How else can I interpret my experience with them?
My experience with PLA's is that some of them get a little brittle, which can cause them to snap in the feeder mechanism. Besides that you might get just a tiny bit more stringing. Overall the effects of moisture on PLA seem very minor, and it's totally possible you don't notice anything.
This is not the case for PETG/TPU/PC/PA and some others though. PETG and TPU print a lot worse when wet, with stringing and poor layer adhesion, and PC and PA become basically unprintable. Those filaments must be dried in a food dehydrator before use, and putting them in a drybox extends the time that they stay dry.
@@antalz Since I use my printer mostly to design herringbone gears and transmission parts for my robot projects, I used ABS from the beginning, it smelled bad when printing, so I switched to PLA a couple of years ago. I never print in ABS anymore. Only parts that are temp sensitive.
The PLA parts seem to be as strong, if not stronger than ABS. Cheap too. When they fail, they fail catastrophically, like fiberglass. Which is not a bad thing in my case.
@@piconano PLA being weak is a myth I've been fighting for ages now. It has higher stiffness and higher ultimate yield strength than PETG, ABS, and many other filaments. The only way other PLA is "weak" is in impact resistance.
Hi. Could you please make a video on cycloidal gear drive calculations?
It's on my list of videos to make, but it'll be a long time. If I'm being very optimistic, maybe next April.
@@antalz thank you, will be waiting patiently.
I used the triangles and a 0.2mm nozzle to make fan filters for my computer. Next time I might use tri-hexagon so 3 lines don't intersect at 1 point, probably prints easier.
That's a cool idea! I don't think tri-hexagon is a good idea though, because I see some small holes and some larger holes. If the larger holes are small enough to block particles, then the smaller ones will inhibit the airflow a lot. It might print easier but I think the end result will perform worse.
@@antalz Yeah, I'd make them so small that the triangles are completely closed, just leaving the hexagons.
I'm also contemplating using "zig zag" at 0, 120 and 240 degrees to make the triangles without the lines getting interrupted.
Pretty good ideas, maybe lines works for you? I'm not sure how much the gaps between layers mess with the airflow. Just generally airflow is a hard thing to wrap your head around. Do you have anything to test how well the different settings perform?
@@antalz I don't have a real test, I just print 120mm filters, compare if I feel noticable differences in airflow if I mount them to a separate fan. I watch a lot of gamers nexus case reviews and I figure this is probably more rigorous testing than most case manufacturers do.
Currently using this filter on a 200mm fan, temperatures are fine:
tweakers.net/fotoalbum/image/f0q8kulb50UeUYoj8kvBfstl.jpg
And it at least stops some dust entering from the bottom of the case:
tweakers.net/fotoalbum/image/hVal80UECNQCSWYxcaeHdgue.jpg
Satisfied with the performance so far, but if I manage to get my hands on a more powerful gpu I'll try and make some filters again to see if I can improve them. Currently running a 1660Ti, which doesn't need much.
@@Flapdr01 Not sure how it works in the PC world, but in commercial settings you usually get a pressure-flow curve when you buy a fan, and then you can measure a pressure drop across the filter. Takes some specific gear to do that though.