I've never heard a more enjoyable speaker than Joe! I love his candor and honesty when speaking including his use of the English language! It's always funny but serious too! Thanks Joe!!!!
This program is much more DIY-er/ non-engineer friendly than Dr. L's other talks for builders where he sometimes loses me because he is a genius and I have just an average intelligence. Excellent talk!
Great presentation Joe, like always, you are truly inspiring for anyone that is working in this field of the constitution industry, I did miss the chance to see you at the ABEC last year but I hope to meet you in person next time you come for a presentation here in Calgary.
Heard a lot about joe “steebrick”. Assumed he was a dry old guy. Had no idea he had so much charisma and was such a good speaker and teacher. Clearly a master
We must be close to the same age because I was laughing through the entire presentation. Of course I will need to watch a second time to remember the jokes.
At 51:00 Joe illustrates wall assemblies with and without vapor barriers. It seems odd to not have a vapor barrier attached on the exterior of the sheathing. I suppose if the rigid insulation is EPS, XPS or Poly-iso I would think forfeiting the vapor/rain barrier makes sense. Thus preventing moisture buildup between two non breathable surfaces. If the rigid insulation is mineral wool I would think the vapor/rain barrier should be required because the mineral wool breathes and allows air transfer. Am I understanding this correctly?
my understanding was that he was saying you need Typar etc on the outside of the sheathing or he mentioned ZIP system in his preferred example. I thought he was saying that the interior vapour barrier was not necessary if the exterior insulation was over 2 inches. That way the interior insulation could dry if necessary.
I thought he was referring to the interior vapour barrier rather than the membrane on the sheathing as being something you could avoid if you have thick enough exterior insulation..
I was worrying about the conductivity of fasteners running through external insulation layers, so it's good to hear Joe'a mentioned of how stainless fasteners mitigate this problem. (Stainless is less conductive than steel...)
It's also an extremely small cross-section. So even though the SS screws are 15X(?) more heat-conductive than wood, they have 100X less cross-sectional area. So the SS screw (or even plain steel screws, 30X(?) more conductive than wood) is a net win for reducing thermal-bridging (vs a wood stud/furring strip).
hi Joe, I am a licensed stationary, (steam), engineer in the washington dc area also named Joe. I currently own a commercial flat roofing company and also do a lot of air and vapor barrier systems. I am very enlightened by your expertise in the field of venting, vapor and heat transfer. being an old guy myself, i even understand and can appreciate your jokes. I know us old guys do sometimes make mistakes but i respectfully wanted to correct you on your btu's to required for a change of state. to change 1 lb of water into vapor it takes 970.3 btu's but to change 1 lb of water into ice you must remove an additional 144 btu's. neither is over 1000 but who's counting. lol If you are ever in the DC area, look me up and i'll buy you lunch. thanks again, Joe
What book is available with information specifically on standing seam roofs when using open cell insulation sprayed to the underside of the roof deck in climate zone 1 and 2.
@@fredygump5578 I wonder if the SIPs he made were EPS(styrofoam)? While I have installed those I don't care for them for many reasons mostly vapor migration. The SIPs I use are Closed Cell Polyurethane and I use Polyurethane Expanded Foam between each panel. I made a video you might like called "A House that will not Burn"
@@ModernMountainLiving His were probably EPS, statistically speaking. I've seen a company that makes polyurethane foam panels, but I've only come across the one. He likes SIPs in theory. His objection is that in practice, it is too difficult to apply sealant properly and get a perfect seal between panels every time. To mitigate the risk, he suggests a vented cold roof over the top of the SIP...fur it out w/ 2x2. Then if/when moisture gets through a seam, it can dry without causing any damage. (In other lectures he talks about investigating SIP failures, so he knows what can go wrong.) Regardless of the SIP panel system, I'm sure he'd say the same thing...include an outside moisture control layer with an air gap, both for walls and roof. He also says he doesn't think of SIPs as being very high performance. For him, high performance is R45+ walls, and more in the roof.
@@fredygump5578Not out yet but I have a vid of our SIPs installation posting soon. My current build is with ECO SIPs w r-42 walls and R54 Roof. Other Closed Cell Companies are Ray Core, and Thermospan. ECO has a cam system I really like. I have reservation about stacking layers of vapor barrier together. If there is ANY vapor Migration(likely) between layers without ventilation any organic matter(sheathing) will rot. This has been a study of mine for a long time. Layers trap moisture. My current build during construction was heated with a single 1500 watt space heater. The performance was 57F inside with -20F outside at 9000' in the Rockies. I'll include pic in the Video. Good Talk Thanks.
@@ModernMountainLiving RayCore is the one I was thinking of. But I'm not very excited about SIPs. I'd consider them for my garage/ shop, but that's about it. Possibly Insulated steel panels, which are essentially the same thing..
I'm looking to build a small house in Glenwood Springs this summer and would love to find a devotee of Dr. Joe who really understands this stuff and is looking for a small project for 2021. I've bought the Dr. Joe's book, watched all the lectures but would love the help of a contractor with experience.
10 minutes into this, and I think I have my answer to the question, "Why didn't they build trailers more energy efficient back in the 80's." Answer is, "They would have had to have done really, really well, moisture being the problem."
actually the did make energy efficient mobile homes in the 80's, but those models were much more expensive. if you can afford a more expensive mobile home you can afford a home. interestingly enough, and as you have already guessed: those mobile homes ate roofs because of moisture problems.
Should be required viewing for anyone taking on a house renovation or shelling out money to have something built. 12:44, 20:57, 1:23, 1:29 all good slides. Humor didn't go wasted Mary Ann voted best in class, RIP.
That long screw has a lot of torque on it, so over the decades whatever sealing membrane is over the OSB is going to fail to seal around the screw. Isn't hot humid outside air going to follow that long screw trying to reach the relatively cold dry end in the air conditioned interior ? Then the water condenses inside the OSB and stud and causes rot, no ? Why not avoid all those fasteners that tie a furring strip back to the structural wall by building a second stud wall attached only to the rafter tails and sill plate ? It shouldn't need structural sheathing because it isn't supporting roofs and ceilings, just the weight of insulation and siding. Because you wouldn't need the crush resistance of the board type insulation you could then use fluffy mineral wool insulation which is half the cost for the same R-value.
I keep watching his stuff hoping I can use it one day. He does need one correction and that is dirt AKA adobe is used to build walls. They just have to be really thick.
So it's just insurance and a half phone board for the wall sheathing outside the studs? I mean I know there would be siding over top but that seems pretty weak. Granted I was listening to the lecture at work so I might have missed something. But they're at the end right about the last 10 minute mark is where I'm referring. I guess you don't have to worry about tropical hurricane winds or anything in the majority of Canada but that still seems awfully weak. Even though it's all based on such a strong idea...
I wondered the same thing - mostly in terms of shear strength of the wall - with sheathing only at the corners. Thinking about it, I think the exterior insulation board with cladding over it ought to keep out any solid objects. I'll trust the engineers on shear strength, if that's what they say...
This is probably my 5 or 6th video that I've watched from Joe, and it seems like he's been delivering the same argument for 20 years. I can't tell if his info is outdated or the rest still hasn't gotten the message yet.
I don't think the principles have changed. It's just that the building industry and the home owner either don't hear or don't pay attention. Builders and manufacturers are super conservative (aka stuck in their ways).
Hi, I have a question for Joe, but I have no idea how to reach him. If anyone has contact info for him, please put him in touch with me. I have a house built in 1910, 2-story, with a crawl-space and a steep roof over the attic, 2,100 sqft. Craftsman with shiplap construction (2x4s). The first floor has wainscoting up to 5’, lath and plaster for the upper 4’ for a 9’ ceiling. The second floor is 8’ of lath and plaster. I would like to insulate the house with closed cell spray foam insulation but because there is no vapor barrier I’m concerned about wood rot from water due to lack of air flow. I have opened up some walls and can see from staining that the house leaks water every once in a while, but doesn’t cause rot due to airflow. I want to improve the house but I don’t want to ruin it. Please help. Thanks for your time and consideration. -Bob, from San Pedro, CA
I own a Queen Anne from 1895 in New Orleans. We have similar construction. For all the same reasons you mention, I have been VERY hesitant to use spray foam on any exterior walls. I would be very cautious of doing so. During renovations, I had access to a few sections of exterior wall from the inside. When closing the walls back in, I layered from inside out using the following materials starting against the cypress wood siding: Delta-Dry rainscreen (a German product), Tyvex's commerical moisture barrier product, and finally Rockwool batts (made from lava rock). Don't use fiberglass that will MOLD in your old house! If there was a way to share my contact information with you private, I would send you some photos. If you know how, feel free to reach out to me. Good luck! P.S. Watch Matt Risinger on here. He does an episode highlighting a woman contractor who builds a very similar wall using the same products I used in an application nearly identical to yours.
So the snow further insulates, further traps warm air, and that's what creates ice dams, therefore that roof over the roof (cold roof) with adequate vent space is key to keep the ROOF nice and frosty with cathedral ceilings. The air acts a insulation for your roof. And so in cold climates, insulation to protect the OUTSIDE from the INSIDE is just as important because water travels from warm to cold and without that you get a wet rotting roof. Any smart people out there, am I understanding this correctly????
Snow insulating the roof does not cause ice dams. Heat from inside the house warming the roof and melting the snow causes ice dams. Only static air is an insulator, moving air such as in a vented roof will carry heat away but will not insulate.
@@percyfaith11 I would only heat the attic long enough to slide the 4+ feet of snow off the roof so it doesn't collapse. Maybe 2 or 3x in a year tops. Using the whole house fan system I'm going to install. With heat from the wood stove. So less than $1 in gasoline to process the wood. Do you know from experience that I won't get ice dams using this method or just an educated guess? Locals give me mixed opinions.
@@NoName-ml5yk the edge of your roof, over the eaves won't be heated. That's where the water that will be running down from your heated roof will freeze. This will create ice dams unless you put heating wires along eaves. Much better is to insulate and air seal your attic so well that the roof won't be heated at all. That way you'll never have to worry about ice dams. Any architect or engineer will be able to tell you the specs you need to build your roof to so it won't collapse under four feet of snow. I think a metal roof will probably be slippery enough that snow will slide off it without heating it. The idea of heating your roof really sounds wacky.
I think a direct comparison is a bit unfair. The biggest difference, I think, is that Americans are used to having seemingly unlimited cheap energy. Because energy is cheap, it has been difficult to convince people to improve their houses. Builders in particular love to say better efficiency isn't worth it monetarily, and with current energy prices, they are correct. These builders typically don't want to change their ways or learn new ways of doing things. But there are a growing number of people who feel that we have a responsibility to reduce energy use, regardless of cost.
@@fredygump5578 I agree with most of what you say. US i big, and climate differs a lot between areas. But the strong preference for always placing vapor control layer on the outside baffles me. Same with shingles on the room and only having that one layer to rely on. A disaster waiting to happen if you ever get snow on the roof, and a risk in any climate if the nails start to rust.
@@craigsandifer1573 Interesting figures, my house uses about 12000kWh per year, built in the late 60's about 160 m^2, heated by thermal heatpump last 10 years. A new house in southern Sweden are allowed to use 55kWh/m^2 per year for heating/cooling. In northen it is 130. So for a 100m^2 house that translates to 5500 and 13000 kWh.
I have a mobile home built in the 80's, and am seeing condensation stains on the ceilings especially in the kitchen and bath, and assume the insulation (which wasn't that much to begin with) is being affected. I believe it needs a new roof frame, and more insulation in the walls also. I would also like to get the ceiling height to something near 8' also, through a truss design. I want to build in complete ventilation from crawlspace, along the outside of the wall insulation, and underside of roof sheathing, to the peak, making a built in ridge vent. I see a lot of condensation on my windows, which will also need to be upgraded. Right now, I'm thinking about insect and rodent screening, especially rodents, but I wonder about wasps and bees.
Jim Hansen Yes, but if there is a Fire, the Fire Dept. all get stoned trying to put it out, the building burns down anyway, so you’ll have a chance to build it better the 2nd time. ; )
We engineers have a sense of humor. He is right about the "efficiency gene" some call it perfectionism. But many do not understand that even in engineering truth can be well hated because along with that "efficiency gene" we have the "I am right even when wrong gene". When you tell an engineer something they don't believe in you get resistance and you are not funny. The ones that laugh get it and will tend to be better engineers while the ones that don't are a problem.
For anyone else looking to find the presentation file i managed to find it here - www.buildingscience.com/sites/default/files/roxul_-_houston.pdf but i couldn't find the page/artile related to it (if there is one)
he wonders why people arent reacting to his jokes and keeps huffing and saying nevermind but he's like the driest fucking speaker I've ever heard in my life. His delivery is truly cringe-worthy.
Great information = 1/3, but the other 2/3 and the delivery is an angry, negative rant of an unhappy person. Not funny when it's SO NEGATIVE. I'm forced to keep forwarding through the rants to keep my head out of the chest-deep negative shite rants. Why? Why?
Try not take it too seriously, he's just using levity as a mechanism to connect with the audience and break up the information dump to make it more digestable thereby make the subject less intimidating. Remember this was filmed live for an audience. It's all well and good watching the performance afterwards as a video and being able to rewind, but having those small digressions helps give the audience time to understand these concept as the show goes on. As for the content of the digressions, they didn't seem very angry and negative to me, not in any genuine manner.
This is probably my 5 or 6th video that I've watched from Joe, and it seems like he's been delivering the same argument for 20 years. I can't tell if his info is outdated or the rest still hasn't received the message yet.
During the Las Vegas / New Orleans segment he explained that big companies have a formula that they build by all over the world, regardless of climate conditions. They keep the construction costs down and don't have to operate them. Even today, builders and their clients pass the increased maintenance and operating costs on to the consumer, or renter, or owner, so they don't care.
Excellent information!! But, this could have been much better and easier to follow without his stupid jokes, which are not really funny, only irritating
If I had professors like this I would have ended up with 3 or 4 phds. This guy is great.
I've never heard a more enjoyable speaker than Joe! I love his candor and honesty when speaking including his use of the English language! It's always funny but serious too! Thanks Joe!!!!
Joe is amazing, every time he speaks it's supremely educational and entertaining!
This program is much more DIY-er/ non-engineer friendly than Dr. L's other talks for builders where he sometimes loses me because he is a genius and I have just an average intelligence. Excellent talk!
His presentations help to educate me and understand my 1890 house. I've noticed Insulating, ventilation, and wetness changed with changes to my house.
Great presentation Joe, like always, you are truly inspiring for anyone that is working in this field of the constitution industry, I did miss the chance to see you at the ABEC last year but I hope to meet you in person next time you come for a presentation here in Calgary.
Heard a lot about joe “steebrick”. Assumed he was a dry old guy. Had no idea he had so much charisma and was such a good speaker and teacher. Clearly a master
First time listener... Great job. Dry humor and great information.
Thanks for watching!
This guy is a gem.
Keep on keepin on
I like his subsidizing ideas- keeping it local, conservation over "green" labels
Another Excellent presentation Joe . . . Brilliant - & I love that ' white roofs matter '
Love Joes knowledge information and sense of humor. Want mor of him on "cup of joe"
he is very good at whatever he has been doing for a living .
We must be close to the same age because I was laughing through the entire presentation. Of course I will need to watch a second time to remember the jokes.
Why can’t an ICF have a big window? Whats architectural limiting?
At 51:00 Joe illustrates wall assemblies with and without vapor barriers. It seems odd to not have a vapor barrier attached on the exterior of the sheathing. I suppose if the rigid insulation is EPS, XPS or Poly-iso I would think forfeiting the vapor/rain barrier makes sense. Thus preventing moisture buildup between two non breathable surfaces. If the rigid insulation is mineral wool I would think the vapor/rain barrier should be required because the mineral wool breathes and allows air transfer. Am I understanding this correctly?
my understanding was that he was saying you need Typar etc on the outside of the sheathing or he mentioned ZIP system in his preferred example. I thought he was saying that the interior vapour barrier was not necessary if the exterior insulation was over 2 inches. That way the interior insulation could dry if necessary.
I thought he was referring to the interior vapour barrier rather than the membrane on the sheathing as being something you could avoid if you have thick enough exterior insulation..
There are plenty of vapor permeable moisture/air barriers that can avoid the issues caused by a proper vapor barrier.
Great brief from a presenter with a wonderful sense of humor! Thank you!
Wish I'd had him as a teacher.
I was worrying about the conductivity of fasteners running through external insulation layers, so it's good to hear Joe'a mentioned of how stainless fasteners mitigate this problem. (Stainless is less conductive than steel...)
The guy he was answering seemed to get a little combative. Joe was right though
It's also an extremely small cross-section. So even though the SS screws are 15X(?) more heat-conductive than wood, they have 100X less cross-sectional area. So the SS screw (or even plain steel screws, 30X(?) more conductive than wood) is a net win for reducing thermal-bridging (vs a wood stud/furring strip).
THIS GUY IS HILARIOUS! HOW ON EARTH IS THE CROWD NOT LAUGHING CONSTANTLY???!!!
hi Joe, I am a licensed stationary, (steam), engineer in the washington dc area also named Joe. I currently own a commercial flat roofing company and also do a lot of air and vapor barrier systems. I am very enlightened by your expertise in the field of venting, vapor and heat transfer. being an old guy myself, i even understand and can appreciate your jokes. I know us old guys do sometimes make mistakes but i respectfully wanted to correct you on your btu's to required for a change of state. to change 1 lb of water into vapor it takes 970.3 btu's but to change 1 lb of water into ice you must remove an additional 144 btu's. neither is over 1000 but who's counting. lol If you are ever in the DC area, look me up and i'll buy you lunch. thanks again, Joe
Great man.
This guy has a great sense of humor.
What book is available with information specifically on standing seam roofs when using open cell insulation sprayed to the underside of the roof deck in climate zone 1 and 2.
Just found you. My build in Creede, CO is waking up the area to my SIPs Modern Build by my videos. Nice work educating the industry.
He doesn't really like SIPs, specifically for roof assemblies. At 56:30 he is responding to a question about SIPs (the question is inaudible...).
@@fredygump5578 I wonder if the SIPs he made were EPS(styrofoam)? While I have installed those I don't care for them for many reasons mostly vapor migration. The SIPs I use are Closed Cell Polyurethane and I use Polyurethane Expanded Foam between each panel. I made a video you might like called "A House that will not Burn"
@@ModernMountainLiving His were probably EPS, statistically speaking. I've seen a company that makes polyurethane foam panels, but I've only come across the one.
He likes SIPs in theory. His objection is that in practice, it is too difficult to apply sealant properly and get a perfect seal between panels every time. To mitigate the risk, he suggests a vented cold roof over the top of the SIP...fur it out w/ 2x2. Then if/when moisture gets through a seam, it can dry without causing any damage. (In other lectures he talks about investigating SIP failures, so he knows what can go wrong.)
Regardless of the SIP panel system, I'm sure he'd say the same thing...include an outside moisture control layer with an air gap, both for walls and roof.
He also says he doesn't think of SIPs as being very high performance. For him, high performance is R45+ walls, and more in the roof.
@@fredygump5578Not out yet but I have a vid of our SIPs installation posting soon. My current build is with ECO SIPs w r-42 walls and R54 Roof. Other Closed Cell Companies are Ray Core, and Thermospan. ECO has a cam system I really like. I have reservation about stacking layers of vapor barrier together. If there is ANY vapor Migration(likely) between layers without ventilation any organic matter(sheathing) will rot. This has been a study of mine for a long time. Layers trap moisture. My current build during construction was heated with a single 1500 watt space heater. The performance was 57F inside with -20F outside at 9000' in the Rockies. I'll include pic in the Video. Good Talk Thanks.
@@ModernMountainLiving RayCore is the one I was thinking of. But I'm not very excited about SIPs. I'd consider them for my garage/ shop, but that's about it. Possibly Insulated steel panels, which are essentially the same thing..
What do you do when you have a foundation built in the reverse of the 'perfect-slab'?
Great teacher.
This guy is funnier than 99% of comedians.
I'm looking to build a small house in Glenwood Springs this summer and would love to find a devotee of Dr. Joe who really understands this stuff and is looking for a small project for 2021.
I've bought the Dr. Joe's book, watched all the lectures but would love the help of a contractor with experience.
Joe never fails to make me burst out laughing, unexpectedly, during his otherwise very technical presentations. Wow. Such good stuff.
Happy belated Birthday Joe.
This guy is amazing
He mentioned at the beginning that this was part one, did he make a part 2?
10 minutes into this, and I think I have my answer to the question, "Why didn't they build trailers more energy efficient back in the 80's." Answer is, "They would have had to have done really, really well, moisture being the problem."
actually the did make energy efficient mobile homes in the 80's, but those models were much more expensive. if you can afford a more expensive mobile home you can afford a home. interestingly enough, and as you have already guessed: those mobile homes ate roofs because of moisture problems.
Don’t know anything about building not sure why I’m here but I sure enjoyed it lol.
Should be required viewing for anyone taking on a house renovation or shelling out money to have something built. 12:44, 20:57, 1:23, 1:29 all good slides. Humor didn't go wasted Mary Ann voted best in class, RIP.
What a character, what a legend
That long screw has a lot of torque on it, so over the decades whatever sealing membrane is over the OSB is going to fail to seal around the screw. Isn't hot humid outside air going to follow that long screw trying to reach the relatively cold dry end in the air conditioned interior ? Then the water condenses inside the OSB and stud and causes rot, no ? Why not avoid all those fasteners that tie a furring strip back to the structural wall by building a second stud wall attached only to the rafter tails and sill plate ? It shouldn't need structural sheathing because it isn't supporting roofs and ceilings, just the weight of insulation and siding. Because you wouldn't need the crush resistance of the board type insulation you could then use fluffy mineral wool insulation which is half the cost for the same R-value.
The real title is Don’t do Stupid Stuff
What a great talk!
I keep watching his stuff hoping I can use it one day. He does need one correction and that is dirt AKA adobe is used to build walls. They just have to be really thick.
I am considering getting his book but I am afraid that it will be full of bad jokes
It's not
the jokes are good, too good.
Missed a great opertunity for were not a big firm but we are hard at work
So it's just insurance and a half phone board for the wall sheathing outside the studs? I mean I know there would be siding over top but that seems pretty weak. Granted I was listening to the lecture at work so I might have missed something. But they're at the end right about the last 10 minute mark is where I'm referring. I guess you don't have to worry about tropical hurricane winds or anything in the majority of Canada but that still seems awfully weak. Even though it's all based on such a strong idea...
I wondered the same thing - mostly in terms of shear strength of the wall - with sheathing only at the corners. Thinking about it, I think the exterior insulation board with cladding over it ought to keep out any solid objects. I'll trust the engineers on shear strength, if that's what they say...
GREAT
This is probably my 5 or 6th video that I've watched from Joe, and it seems like he's been delivering the same argument for 20 years. I can't tell if his info is outdated or the rest still hasn't gotten the message yet.
Didn't he give a talk that references a book of old green and energy efficient building practices based on climate?
I don't think the principles have changed. It's just that the building industry and the home owner either don't hear or don't pay attention. Builders and manufacturers are super conservative (aka stuck in their ways).
Buyers and builders are uneducated and are driven by the race to the bottom line. Classic American way…make a profit at someone else’s expense
@24:00 "Why waste your time with stupid calculations". I am a degreed construction engineer and I've wondered the same thing my entire career! LOL!
This is good stuff right here
1:32:09 Finally! I found a mistake!
Fantastic
Am I the only one who is concerned about the different thermal expansion rates between wood and foam?
Yup, both are flexible enough to compensate.
Joe!!! Please invite me to summer camp!
I could kiss ya Joe. "Don't give me another ugly box" "Tired of Passive House" lololol
Hi, I have a question for Joe, but I have no idea how to reach him. If anyone has contact info for him, please put him in touch with me.
I have a house built in 1910, 2-story, with a crawl-space and a steep roof over the attic, 2,100 sqft. Craftsman with shiplap construction (2x4s). The first floor has wainscoting up to 5’, lath and plaster for the upper 4’ for a 9’ ceiling. The second floor is 8’ of lath and plaster.
I would like to insulate the house with closed cell spray foam insulation but because there is no vapor barrier I’m concerned about wood rot from water due to lack of air flow.
I have opened up some walls and can see from staining that the house leaks water every once in a while, but doesn’t cause rot due to airflow.
I want to improve the house but I don’t want to ruin it. Please help.
Thanks for your time and consideration.
-Bob, from San Pedro, CA
I own a Queen Anne from 1895 in New Orleans. We have similar construction. For all the same reasons you mention, I have been VERY hesitant to use spray foam on any exterior walls. I would be very cautious of doing so. During renovations, I had access to a few sections of exterior wall from the inside. When closing the walls back in, I layered from inside out using the following materials starting against the cypress wood siding: Delta-Dry rainscreen (a German product), Tyvex's commerical moisture barrier product, and finally Rockwool batts (made from lava rock). Don't use fiberglass that will MOLD in your old house! If there was a way to share my contact information with you private, I would send you some photos. If you know how, feel free to reach out to me. Good luck! P.S. Watch Matt Risinger on here. He does an episode highlighting a woman contractor who builds a very similar wall using the same products I used in an application nearly identical to yours.
LOVE YOU
So the snow further insulates, further traps warm air, and that's what creates ice dams, therefore that roof over the roof (cold roof) with adequate vent space is key to keep the ROOF nice and frosty with cathedral ceilings. The air acts a insulation for your roof. And so in cold climates, insulation to protect the OUTSIDE from the INSIDE is just as important because water travels from warm to cold and without that you get a wet rotting roof. Any smart people out there, am I understanding this correctly????
Snow insulating the roof does not cause ice dams. Heat from inside the house warming the roof and melting the snow causes ice dams. Only static air is an insulator, moving air such as in a vented roof will carry heat away but will not insulate.
@@percyfaith11 If the roof is metal won't the snow slide right off if the underside is heated up? Or will I still get ice dams?
@@NoName-ml5yk Sure it would, if your objective was to waste tons of money and energy.
@@percyfaith11 I would only heat the attic long enough to slide the 4+ feet of snow off the roof so it doesn't collapse. Maybe 2 or 3x in a year tops. Using the whole house fan system I'm going to install. With heat from the wood stove. So less than $1 in gasoline to process the wood. Do you know from experience that I won't get ice dams using this method or just an educated guess? Locals give me mixed opinions.
@@NoName-ml5yk the edge of your roof, over the eaves won't be heated. That's where the water that will be running down from your heated roof will freeze. This will create ice dams unless you put heating wires along eaves. Much better is to insulate and air seal your attic so well that the roof won't be heated at all. That way you'll never have to worry about ice dams. Any architect or engineer will be able to tell you the specs you need to build your roof to so it won't collapse under four feet of snow. I think a metal roof will probably be slippery enough that snow will slide off it without heating it. The idea of heating your roof really sounds wacky.
Joe cracks himself up !
!!!!!!! LOL
Dude sounds like Jeff Goldblum without the quirky vocal tics.
And looks like Richard Dawkins
It is funny to see how 99% of what you promote is what I call a normal swedish house.
Us Americans apparently need a century to catch up!
I think a direct comparison is a bit unfair. The biggest difference, I think, is that Americans are used to having seemingly unlimited cheap energy. Because energy is cheap, it has been difficult to convince people to improve their houses. Builders in particular love to say better efficiency isn't worth it monetarily, and with current energy prices, they are correct. These builders typically don't want to change their ways or learn new ways of doing things. But there are a growing number of people who feel that we have a responsibility to reduce energy use, regardless of cost.
@@fredygump5578 I agree with most of what you say. US i big, and climate differs a lot between areas.
But the strong preference for always placing vapor control layer on the outside baffles me.
Same with shingles on the room and only having that one layer to rely on.
A disaster waiting to happen if you ever get snow on the roof, and a risk in any climate if the nails start to rust.
@@craigsandifer1573 Interesting figures, my house uses about 12000kWh per year, built in the late 60's about 160 m^2, heated by thermal heatpump last 10 years.
A new house in southern Sweden are allowed to use 55kWh/m^2 per year for heating/cooling. In northen it is 130. So for a 100m^2 house that translates to 5500 and 13000 kWh.
Ok I was following him fine until he said parapet- what the heck is that in terms of roof ventilation?
Meanwhile I watch a buildshow video about a tradeshow in Germany where they are starting to pack dirt into walls..
+1. .. SPAM is the OSB of luncheon meat. .. Hilarious. .. Vail, Colorado
It gives OSB too much credit, but pretty much.
I have a mobile home built in the 80's, and am seeing condensation stains on the ceilings especially in the kitchen and bath, and assume the insulation (which wasn't that much to begin with) is being affected. I believe it needs a new roof frame, and more insulation in the walls also. I would also like to get the ceiling height to something near 8' also, through a truss design. I want to build in complete ventilation from crawlspace, along the outside of the wall insulation, and underside of roof sheathing, to the peak, making a built in ridge vent. I see a lot of condensation on my windows, which will also need to be upgraded. Right now, I'm thinking about insect and rodent screening, especially rodents, but I wonder about wasps and bees.
Do the walls have vinyl wallpaper?
Build your home of Hempcrete and Joseph can finally retire.
Jim Hansen Yes, but if there is a Fire, the Fire Dept. all get stoned trying to put it out, the building burns down anyway, so you’ll have a chance to build it better the 2nd time. ; )
@@JohnR84 not if you are still high!
funny down to earth presentation. Must have been to an audience of engineers. no real sense of humor
@Leon Milner LOL yes that is what I said ... serious.. or just no sense of humor
Seems more of a bunch of 'green' architects types who design boring/ugly Passive House projects -
We engineers have a sense of humor. He is right about the "efficiency gene" some call it perfectionism. But many do not understand that even in engineering truth can be well hated because along with that "efficiency gene" we have the "I am right even when wrong gene". When you tell an engineer something they don't believe in you get resistance and you are not funny. The ones that laugh get it and will tend to be better engineers while the ones that don't are a problem.
For anyone else looking to find the presentation file i managed to find it here - www.buildingscience.com/sites/default/files/roxul_-_houston.pdf
but i couldn't find the page/artile related to it (if there is one)
Informative, butt.......bit too much gasping. &, the constant exasperation over audience stupid naivety is just plain insulting. We're not stupid.
No loughs because there are to many Investors ....... and they dont give a shit Chris Schmidt
he wonders why people arent reacting to his jokes and keeps huffing and saying nevermind but he's like the driest fucking speaker I've ever heard in my life. His delivery is truly cringe-worthy.
Joe use dry humor to combat moisture. Only if his upside down martini glass was dry martini it would be flawless.
Great information = 1/3, but the other 2/3 and the delivery is an angry, negative rant of an unhappy person. Not funny when it's SO NEGATIVE. I'm forced to keep forwarding through the rants to keep my head out of the chest-deep negative shite rants. Why? Why?
Try not take it too seriously, he's just using levity as a mechanism to connect with the audience and break up the information dump to make it more digestable thereby make the subject less intimidating.
Remember this was filmed live for an audience. It's all well and good watching the performance afterwards as a video and being able to rewind, but having those small digressions helps give the audience time to understand these concept as the show goes on.
As for the content of the digressions, they didn't seem very angry and negative to me, not in any genuine manner.
@@Shryquill point taken. Maybe it’s just brand-of-humor.
This is probably my 5 or 6th video that I've watched from Joe, and it seems like he's been delivering the same argument for 20 years. I can't tell if his info is outdated or the rest still hasn't received the message yet.
During the Las Vegas / New Orleans segment he explained that big companies have a formula that they build by all over the world, regardless of climate conditions. They keep the construction costs down and don't have to operate them.
Even today, builders and their clients pass the increased maintenance and operating costs on to the consumer, or renter, or owner, so they don't care.
Excellent information!! But, this could have been much better and easier to follow without his stupid jokes, which are not really funny, only irritating
The hectoring... what a crank. We already have other people we keep around to be funny. Convey the visionary research and then go back to Canada.
Nice “all white roofs matter” comment.
Really unprofessional.
Lifelong rich engineer making jokes at the expense of Black Lives Matter.
#sheltered
Someone tell him he is not funny. And to get to the point and stop wasting time with his manic comedy routine.
It's SO hard to concentrate on learning something while trying to filter out the "humor." If you think you're a comedian, go do stand-up.