I like hand planing for the final step. I’ve never had any tear out ever on end grain. Really doesn’t take that long for this step-maybe an hour and it’s a good workout. Good looking board. I’m trying to move beyond simple builds and this looks like a pretty inspiring idea.
@@measuretwicewoodworking Handplaning works excellently on flattening EG. Epic Woodworking had a couple videos on making a simple cherry board and Tom used a LN LAJ for this process which gave me the idea. You don't have to use a LAJ--my 5.5 LN works pretty well also. The wood doesn't tear out bc EG is so dense. During the process, I test boards with a straight edge and by placing on a marble countertop checking for any wiggling. It's pretty rote for me to fix any imperfections or wobble. I can do both sides of a 16x12" board in about 90 minutes--give or take (somewhat surprisingly to me hand planing EG hard maple isn't more difficult that cherry or walnut). After flattening there might be some superficial scratch marks on the board that are easily taken care of by some 80 grit paper., It's a decent workout also. I've made dozens of boards this way. Might not work for a commercial operation, but for a retired guy it's fine...
Thank you so very much for the basket weave reveal video, I am 75 and could not figure out the manner they are made . I am directionally and geometrically challenged , but am a retired Physician so I am not a dummy. Once , before GPS and iPads , I was standing on a mountain with forest service map in hand and a compass, a friend came up, said “ wait a minute friend”, took the map , turned it 180 degrees , and said “ try it this way”. Jack in Idaho
excellent video build. Love the basketweave with just two woods. Wood Magazine had an article on this type of cutting board but it used six different woods, some exotic, and it would have been $300 just for the lumber. With your video I can use maple and cherry, two species I have a bunch of sitting on the lumber racks in the shop. Thanks!
I found I get virtually no chip out w end grain planning if I rout the ends w a round over bit. Accidental discovery after i screwed up a juice groove... great video!
What a great looking board, and so much easier than most of the other designs I've seen. Just a quick question. After the 2nd glue up and you're cutting the strips, you seem to readjust the fence after a few cuts? Are these not all equal sizes? Thanks
Thanks! They are meant to be equal, yes. For the sake of safety you shouldn't use the miter slot and the fence at the same time. Also, if the board is wider than it is long you shouldn't use the fence as a guide. Too much leverage. I switch strategies the moment it feels unsafe to use the miter slot and the board is longer than it is wide and therefore I don't have a sideways leverage safety problem.
With an end grain board wood movement is less of a concern. Although with a sufficiently large board and with two species that sufficiently differ in how much they expand and contract it could be worth considering. I've made boards as big as 22" x 12" without issue.
Another question after i completely butchered (pun intended) my board. After the second glue up and before cutting the strips, you said you were going to run it through the planer to remove the glue. How do you do this without taking any timber off the walnut strips. I'm assuming very carefully, but any tips?
I took an extremely shallow pass on each side. Less than 1/64". You need a flat enough surface that the strips can be glued together in the third glue up. Alternatively you can try sanding or lightly chiseling any glue blobs off. The planer gave me the best results.
I like hand planing for the final step. I’ve never had any tear out ever on end grain. Really doesn’t take that long for this step-maybe an hour and it’s a good workout.
Good looking board. I’m trying to move beyond simple builds and this looks like a pretty inspiring idea.
How well does hand planing work on end grain? I imagine that being more difficult.
@@measuretwicewoodworking Handplaning works excellently on flattening EG. Epic Woodworking had a couple videos on making a simple cherry board and Tom used a LN LAJ for this process which gave me the idea. You don't have to use a LAJ--my 5.5 LN works pretty well also.
The wood doesn't tear out bc EG is so dense. During the process, I test boards with a straight edge and by placing on a marble countertop checking for any wiggling. It's pretty rote for me to fix any imperfections or wobble. I can do both sides of a 16x12" board in about 90 minutes--give or take (somewhat surprisingly to me hand planing EG hard maple isn't more difficult that cherry or walnut). After flattening there might be some superficial scratch marks on the board that are easily taken care of by some 80 grit paper.,
It's a decent workout also. I've made dozens of boards this way. Might not work for a commercial operation, but for a retired guy it's fine...
Thank you so very much for the basket weave reveal video, I am 75 and could not figure out the manner they are made . I am directionally and geometrically challenged , but am a retired
Physician so I am not a dummy.
Once , before GPS and iPads , I was standing on a mountain with forest service map in hand and a compass, a friend came up, said “ wait a minute friend”, took the map , turned it 180 degrees , and said “ try it this way”.
Jack in Idaho
Just finished 3 boards using your idea, thanks for sharing
Very Nice looking Board
excellent video build. Love the basketweave with just two woods. Wood Magazine had an article on this type of cutting board but it used six different woods, some exotic, and it would have been $300 just for the lumber. With your video I can use maple and cherry, two species I have a bunch of sitting on the lumber racks in the shop. Thanks!
Really well done video with clear explanations. It’s a beautiful board. How fantastic of you to support your community like that. Well done!
Great work Man!!! Like the idea of donating your board. Shows you have a good 💜💜💜 heart!!!
Great video. Skim passes on end grain has worked for me as well but I know it’s controversial
Thank you Charlie.
Awesome tutorial!
You did a really nice job.
Thanks George!
awesome job
Thanks!
@@measuretwicewoodworking What size is this board? Do you happen to have a cut list?
Great work.
Well done and good idea.
I found I get virtually no chip out w end grain planning if I rout the ends w a round over bit. Accidental discovery after i screwed up a juice groove... great video!
That'd make sense. Thanks for the support!
Thank you for the great video. Keep these up!
Very Nice!
What a great looking board, and so much easier than most of the other designs I've seen. Just a quick question. After the 2nd glue up and you're cutting the strips, you seem to readjust the fence after a few cuts? Are these not all equal sizes? Thanks
Thanks!
They are meant to be equal, yes. For the sake of safety you shouldn't use the miter slot and the fence at the same time. Also, if the board is wider than it is long you shouldn't use the fence as a guide. Too much leverage. I switch strategies the moment it feels unsafe to use the miter slot and the board is longer than it is wide and therefore I don't have a sideways leverage safety problem.
Looks great. What's the Charity you donating to?
Nice pattern. End result looks good.... Feet and finger grips maybe?
Beautiful. If I make design in a large format, would it hold up in a climate with low humidity? Or would there be problems with wood movement? Thanks
With an end grain board wood movement is less of a concern. Although with a sufficiently large board and with two species that sufficiently differ in how much they expand and contract it could be worth considering.
I've made boards as big as 22" x 12" without issue.
Very nice! What were your finished dimensions?
Thanks! I don't recall the exact dimensions. I typically make these boards around 19" x 12.5" x 1.75"
Another question after i completely butchered (pun intended) my board.
After the second glue up and before cutting the strips, you said you were going to run it through the planer to remove the glue. How do you do this without taking any timber off the walnut strips. I'm assuming very carefully, but any tips?
I took an extremely shallow pass on each side. Less than 1/64". You need a flat enough surface that the strips can be glued together in the third glue up.
Alternatively you can try sanding or lightly chiseling any glue blobs off. The planer gave me the best results.
Здорово, мне понравилось!
Salve che tipo di olio usi x lucidarli grazie
I use a food safe mineral oil and a mineral oil plus bees wax blend
amzn.to/44s9MRz
Ai é Facil conseguir madeiras?