The Ultimate Weed & Feed
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- There's a lot of interest in roller crimping and planting green so we thought now is the perfect time to demonstrate rolling and planting into hairy vetch and rye. We ran several trials using different equipment and variables to see what provides the best weed suppression and will terminate.
This is only the first part of the project so look for the results in the fall!
This system makes sense and is genius, I think in time acceptance of this method will grow
Great video guys. Listening to the happy birds in the background is the best music one could use in a youtube video :)
This 'system' is the answer to rising atmospheric CO2 levels. It's been estimated that about five million acres using this 'system' would sequester the annual USA CO2 production. The other thing I noted was the insect/bird noise - try hearing that in the middle of a glyphosate-treated environment. Great 'clinic' video - thank you!
How do you think they’re going to kill this c rye/vetch?
You two did pretty good, I appreciate what you guys do there at green cover.
I want to see the sunflower crop at the end of the year!
Thanks for showing the cover crop standing and crimped -- lots of great info in this one!
Thank you. Love the Flag on the tractor
These guys are great thanks for your devotion.
That Vetch carpet is great!!
Love the content guys ! I hope this system becomes the norm in the years to come it just makes sense. I am converting my vegetable garden to no till using this system I hope it works out.
We run our roller at a 45 then plant straight across and get 100% kill from the crimp then cut with drill or planter...but the cut promotes decay so it takes more bio mass to stay longer to hold back weeds where roll and plant with spray stays longer...
But I would rather spend more on cover crop seed to stay longer than to spray a chemical!..
Awesome video!!!...
I planted cover crops again this year- fastest way to build good soil from dirt IMO! Made a video this year on it as well on how to do it in a home garden scale!
Yes weeds do use nitrates as a form of nitrogen but weeds are also natures first line of defence for bare soil to get it covered and protected from soil erosion.
I bet the dislike is from a Monsanto employee.🤪🤪🤪
Great stuff guys!
Love your videos. I wish there could be something on no till for small scale for farmers that don't have the money to drill in the seed. Can you guys do a video on how these cover crops can be successful (or can they be) if someone is doing a smaller scale and is organic
broadcast, broadcast with incorporation (raking) broadcasting into standing plants and then mowing or rolling them down on top. Go have a listen to Jesse Frost's interview with Susana Lein on the No-Till Growers Podcast (06JAN2020) on how she plants her covers and many of her crops without tillage and without special tools.
@@wildrangeringreen I just listened to this video. very helpful. thank you
Love this video especially talking about God.
Great information but need to put in more information about how many growing days are needed to get those kinds of results before one can incorporate it into a program. Keep up the good work and push the pollinators.
Very interesting comment about cropping intensity and weeds. totally agree.
No fence rows anymore. Isn't this true! Love the video.
Has anybody, to kill or knock down rye/vetch or other combinations, tried to spray with vinegar ?.I know it doesn't kill the roots but knocks down very fast.I really enjoy your videos and get a lot of information from you!!! Thank you!! I am in semi high desert in north central oregon.
Don, I am by no means an expert on this but from the reading I have done, vinegar, although organic, does have a detrimental effect on the soil bacteria and fungi and is best avoided.
@@mikeross4 thank you,I will study it some more..
Thank you
My question is...can you let the vetch or clover go to seed? Will you still get a positive nitrogen gain or will you lose it all to the flowers? I dont want to buy seed every year..would be kinda nice to be able to just let it do its thing. I intend this for a small house garden. My husband was gonna till me a small area and I would just plant clover and vetch.. then after it seeds chop it into the soil and plant my carrots or whathave you. Thanks Loved the video!!
Edit: Looks like I won't be having the hubby till the soil....sounds like yall don't enjoy that..so I willhave him just pull all the weeds by hand!! Thanks
tillage is a useful way to clear land of perennial plants when establishing a new planting. Clean tillage is not a good, long-term, management tool, due to the damage it causes; annual deep vertical tillage (subsoiling or broad-forking, being sure only to lift the soil, not turn it or break it up much) can be very beneficial, in maintaining good air and water infiltration, especially in the first few years). I use a tractor drawn subsoiler (I plant .6 acres of vegetables every year), but I also have a 16" tine Meadow Creature Broad-fork for tighter areas or areas that need a little more attention. Here in OH, I do that deep, vertical tillage in the fall, one shank per bed, on 51" centers (36" bed, 15" paths).
Vetch can become a problem in vegetable systems if it goes to seed, as it outcompetes many plants and smothers them out by climbing over them (plus, it's very winter hardy, and produces a lot of viable seed). I do not recommend using vetch and allowing it to go to seed. I planted vetch as part of a cover crop mix back 3 years ago, and some of it survived termination and went to seed, and I'm still dealing with it today. On the other hand, using a low-growing perennial clover, like Ladino White clover, can be useful. You would just take a mattock and cut a furrow to plant your vegetables into the mat of clover. Then dealing with perennial covers, like clover, it is important to clear a small circle around transplants to allow them to establish and become competitive, otherwise, the perennial clover (even a short, white clover) will outcompete it.
I have two sets of .6 acre field blocks, I crop in one, cover-fallow the other; and then alternate every year. Here's the Cycle: In the current veg block, in AUG, I overseed my "Fall-Fallow" mix, which consists of: Winter Lentil, Chickpea, Winter Pea, Yellow Clover (biennial), Alfalfa (weak perennial), Oats, Winter Wheat, Winter Barley, Cereal Rye, Winter triticale, Daikon Radish, Rapeseed, Collards, Sugar Beets, Sunflower, and Safflower. Much of that over-winters. C:N ratio is about 49 by late May.
In late May (in the now-fallow block), I then overseed my "Summer Fallow" Mix, wait a couple days, and then flail-mow the cover crop down close to the ground, the Summer Mix comes up through the residue, and goes all Summer until mid AUG. This Mix Consists of Sunn Hemp, Berseem Clover (annual), Soybeans, Grazing Corn, Forage Sorghum, Oats, Proso Millet, Rapeseed, Sunflower, Sugarbeets, and Flax. It has a C:N ratio of around 45 by mid AUG.
Then, in Mid AUG, I overseed my Fall-Mulch Mix in the block, wait a couple days, and then flail the crop down to the ground. This is a winter kill, soft residue mix. It consists of Spring Pea, Chickpea, Berseem Clover (annual), Spring Lentil, Soybeans, Grazing Corn, Oats, Spring Barley, Daikon Radish, Rapeseed, Collards, Sunflower, Safflower, and Sugar Beets. C:N ratio is around 27 by the time it's frost-killed in late OCT, early NOV. Then I plant vegetables into it the next spring.
I also use perennial, green-pathways, with a mix of Fescue (bunch grass that only spreads by seeds and above-ground tillers), White Clover (Spread by above ground stolons and seed), Broadleaf Plantain (spread by seed), and Perennial Chicory (spread by seed). I mow these with a push mower 1-2 times a month. Notice the intentional lack of Rhizomatous species here (which are much more difficult to keep out of your beds).
I do not use imported fertility on the farm (aside from a highly diluted soluble triple 20 with micros at transplant time), and so there is a strong emphasis on N-fixing plants, despite the high C:N ratio of several of these mixes (these mixes cost around $70-$90 per acre). The hard residue mixes generate, scavenge, and lock up nutrients in the fallow years (while creating a thick mulch and suppressing weeds), and the soft-residue mix stimulates a breakdown of those residues and subsequent burst of nutrients the year vegetables are grown there.
I don't pull weeds, I just cut them back if they get close to competing with my plants (exception being invasive, perennial plants like Canadian Thistle, Johnsongrass, and bine-weed). The more cultivation you do, the more cultivation you have to do (because you're eliminating plant canopy and stirring the soil up), and even the "weeds" (plants that are in the "wrong" place) contribute to the soil.
So when is someone going to show corn or potatoes growing in regenerative farming or green beans carrots. Is it designed for us Gardner's. Or is regenerative only for forage? Whats this cash crop i want to see it with regenerative!! No till?
I bought Dale's book. Need more info
Vraiment intéressant
What was your fall planting date and how did you plant it...assuming seed drill. I was wondering if I could broadcast into a sprayed weedy field and roll it....i have no equipment
I am a home gardener only, so I have no real need to watch all these soil videos but once I learned the micorryzal fungi (can’t even spell it) term I was hooked. Please excuse this dumb learner question. Why if you need a diverse cover crop are weeds bad. Aren’t weeds just another contributor?
part of choosing cover crops is choosing things that will winterkill or be terminated at a wanted time before they go to seed and spread. the random weeds that pop up will go to seed at times you dont know. or some spread rapidly just by the roots going sideways. so if you let them go they can multiply easily.
What do you guys think that is the best 6 ft 3 pt no till drill for food plots. Thank you
maybe let us show some details about the soil structure and the roots?
Or like here...when we have too much rain and it leaches out. Need to have it in better forms lol
It seems like you leave a lot of biomass on the surface that allows the carbon to just release back into the atmosphere, like 50-60%. I now you are no-till but wouldn’t some light tilling incorporate that into the soil? I want faster soil building. You seem to be heavily oriented to weed suppression. Maybe your approach gets the best balance…
Yes there is a lot of biomass on the surface but that is where we want it... yes some will go back to the atmosphere as CO2 but far more CO2 would be release through oxidation with even a light tilling... Soil is built mostly from root and biological activity!