ISE Regulator Single Configuration
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- Our new series of "ISE´s How To" second Videos "How to set up a Single-Tank Regulator Set".
Hoselength, Routing, Necklace, Boltsnaps, Knots - -all explained in Detail.
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Nice presentation/lesson. Thanks.
Very Nice; Thank you.
Thanks! Very usefull.
Thanks!
Hi Achim, thanks for this, it's very useful. May I ask if the orientation of the first stage and usage of the ports change if the first stage has a swivel (MK25 EVO instead of an MK21 in the video) or it remains the same?
Another great video. I find 22inch / 56cm too long for the short hose. It works for my twinset configuration but when setting up a single tank (only difference being the use of an Apeks DST 5 port 1st stage) the loop is really quite large. Looking at going 40cm but wondered if there were any drawbacks I hadn't thought of..?
Thank you for the great video. I followed your set up for my Deep6 reg. Why do you remove dust cup, do you use it for storage or in between dives? Also I am wearing air integrated computer on my left arm and want to have transmitter on the left side of the first stage of the reg too. the second high pressure port is on the right side. Is there any downsides to have SPG on the right side? Thanks again.
Remember the perspective of these videos are from a DIR organization with GUE roots, as such gear is standardized for team-based technical diving. The SPG on the left side is a widely used industry standard so as you have all gas on your right side and all other hoses on the other, but this doesn't mean that you cannot experiment and do what works for you, given that you brief your dive buddies/team properly before so they know that you have different gear. Also, you may not be allowed into some DIR training/teams with a non-standard setup.
Is a late reply but he removes the dust cap because you should use an after-market one. Also don't want it going in the water and getting wet.
I keep my SPG on the left side like the video and use the transmitter on the right HP on a 6" hose
with no connection issues
Hi. What are your thoughts regarding using an elbow on the 2nd stage? Any comfort or hose length issues?
I use them only in SM - otherwise I do not see any benefit in them just aonther part and another O-ring aso.
Hi Achim. Thanks for those very informative videos. On the subject of Miflex hoses, I’ve heard and read that while Miflex is great at short lengths, it tends to get “floaty” and retain a certain loop “memory” at longer lengths (specifically for the long hose). Is this something you’ve observed yourself?
I see that he didn't reply to you. I use all flex hoses on my Dive Rite regulator system. just went to a 7' flex hose for my primary and I love it. It doesn't seem to float. I hear that here in FL some GUE instructors don't like miflex hoses because they think that they fail. I think that was many years ago when they first came out. I contacted GUE and they DO allow fex hoses. I love them personally.
@@scottselkey4460 The primary issue these days that I hear about the flex hoses from other divers, and the reason that I personally use rubber except my travel rig, is that the braiding can burn through a drysuit neck seal with the long hose rubbing. They have the new tech miflex hoses with a covering, but they are advertised as smooth, with less flex than standard miflex, so with that, id rather just save the money and go rubber. I do use flex hoses on my O/W teaching and travel rig though, so I don't hate them totally myself.
In fresh water I’ve had no problems with miflex.
Saltwater they trend to float.
Just swapped miflex back to rubber. Offcourse only to discover my rubber one is leaking in a thousands punctures....
@@Mrich775 I'm using the XT Flex hoses and I hate it because once it has formed the memory it is almost impossible to get it undone and they are stiff. I would rather go back using the rubber hose for back mount but I definitely prefer diving with miflex hoses when I'm driving in sidemount configuration.
@@Caesar.Aquanaut I can see that for sm, I haven't had a memory issue myself but like I said travel rig only for me, since I can get mine into a carry on if needed
I find with my long hose connected to the bottom port of my first stage, it creates a super tight radius for my inflator hose. Because it's already naturally pointing downward. Too tight to get over the left shoulder......
Particularly on the surface when my wing is inflated.....
@@ianauthbert2810 I had the same issue at first, I fixed it with a swivel at the 1st stage, although no one is forcing you to use this setup style, do what works for you and your gear.
Nice video, I am ISE videos fan. I have a question, If you use MK25 for single configuration, how you install the hoses? Because the LP ports are not equally distributed around the 1st stage. I supposed closing angle looking to the diver and the ports how are 180° separate looking the tank.
Thanks for your educational videos, there are very helpful
Hi Josu, I do it exactly as you suppose. Thanks for your nice feedback,
I know this is super late how do you do it for the MK25 evo exactly?
@@jacobadkins3799 The Mk25 has 5 LP ports, 4 are on a swivel turret. The 4 ports are within 180°. Have the largest space between the ports facing the tank before you attach your hoses. The LP ports should be facing you, not the tank. Other than that, you route them the exact same as shown in the video.
If the LP ports are 1-2 | 3-4, with the 5th port pointing down, the secondary second stage goes on port 2, the BCD inflator hose on port 3, and the drysuit inflator hose on port 4. You put the long hose primary second stage on port 5.
Which port should I use in addition to that if I use drysuit? the one under inflator port?
TheRancherr It depends which first stage you use. Generally you should route the hose under your left arm and keep it close to your body. So you have to choose a port on the left.
Thanks!
Hi Achim,
Just a quick question, what brand of flexihoses are you using there?
miflex
What back plate do you use ?
And what wing for back plate?
Can you show how you set everything up with your weights
Hi Robert, please browse through my vidoes - there is videos with all of that explained in detail. Thanks.
@@CoastalDevelopment
I be been watching your videos for about a year and a half I love the details and explanations thank you for all your sharing.
Do you have a video that can help me figure out the buoyancy of my tank and myself with how much weight to carry I’m having a problem with that .
@@robertdiaz4303 The way to do it is to have a spent tank (at 500 psi or 50 bar), all your gear, and get in the water. Empty your BCD, and with half a lungful of air, the water should be at eye level. That's when you're correctly weighted. After that you can move weights around to adjust your trim.
Do this every time your configuration changes (rashvest / 3mm / 5mm / drysuit / aluminum or steel backplate and/or cylinder / singles or doubles / additional gear like reels or lights) or when you're diving in a new location. Water salinity can vary in different seas / oceans / lakes.
So the bolt snap is a back-up for when the bungee corde should break?
No, the primary hose regulator bolt snap is for clipping off the reg when not in use (on land, receiving gas from another source, skill circuit etc)
There is no bolt snap on the regulator on the necklace. Only on the long hose (small eye) and the SPG (large eye).
Hallo Achim. Welches Caveline benutzt du?
Standard 2mm nylon cord.
Silicon grease on the HP line? How about some oxygen compatible product?
What would you suggest instead ?
Christo Lube, Krytox, Gleitmo, Turmoxygen.... There are many greasing compounds able to withstand oxygen under high pressure. You usually need a very tiny amount- if any. @@MrCoolatyp
thanks a lot @@cherrybacon9790
What is your thought on use of the computers with air integrated transmitters in place of SPG?
you should always have the spg even with ai just incase
An electronic SPG is quite useful because it can alert you when your pressure runs low, but an analog SPG is easier to read. It's easier to read and understand a needle position than a digital readout.
Also, an AI transmitter has more failure points than an analog SPG. The battery can die of either the transmitter or the computer. The wireless connection can be lost. The software can go on the fritz. In addition to what can go wrong with an analog SPG (flooding, hose leaks). The only thing that can't go wrong with an AI system compared to an analog SPG is a stuck needle.
I would recommend having an analog SPG backup, and at least use it during pre-dive checks to make sure your tank valve is fully open. When diving with two first stages, have the SPG on one, and the transmitter on the other.
Why do you not want a dust cap underwater?
There is no dust underwater
I had a dust cap get snagged on some body's reel line in limited viz I could have cut his line to get it free but it was his way back
So I waited for him to come back and untangle it
I don't use them any more another snag point
Your dust cap is to keep dust and spray out of your 1st stage. As long as your 1st stage is connected to the cylinder valve, the dust cap serves no purpose. When your dust cap is wet and you put it on your first stage, it can/will introduce water to the inside of your first stage.
Better to keep the dust cap at the surface in a dry place (drybag, waterproof case, cabin) and only get it out when you're taking your regulator off the cylinder.
Hello!! Can anybody tell me the thickness in mm. for the neck lace bungie? I have to order it on line, can’t find it in my small village!!
Love&health from Spain 🇪🇸
5-6mm ist fine
@@CoastalDevelopment Thank you very much. I love your vids and lean a lot. I’m PADI instructor, but changing configuration when I am not working. :)
@@CoastalDevelopment 5-6 mm is quite a thick bungee. Most use a 4mm.
I am surprised he likes nylon braided hoses. It seems like almost all technical and DIR divers much prefer rubber hoses.
Achim has stated elsewhere he uses them in these videos so the camera can pick them up easier. Although I am a fan of rubber hoses I am starting to see many more other techies using flex hose recently though.
Flex hoses have higher burst pressures, are lightweight, and are easier to route.
The downsides is that they're positively buoyant and abrasive.
For the long hose, flex hoses tend to float and loop above your head, which makes them a bit unmanageable. On the surface, they can rub against your neck which can either be uncomfortable, or damage your dry- or wetsuit.
Rubber hoses are negatively buoyant and have a smooth surface, which makes them ideal for long hoses as they stay where you put them, and don't scrape against your skin or suit. Downsides are that they are heavier, and the rubber can dry out and crack.
Another option to consider is the Miflex XT-Tech hoses, which are still flexible, lighter than rubber hoses, and neutrally buoyant. They combine the benefits of flex hoses with the benefits of rubber hoses.
Hallo, what kind of paste/grease did you use? Can in use normal Silicongrease (is it something like this www.amazon.de/gp/product/B008HDGWO0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A20KP67LK5MOLL)
How thick is the bungeecord?
Thanks =)
+Striker_Eureka Hi, sorry for the late reply. It should be oxygen compatible! We use cristo lube. You should get it by every Scubapro Dealer.
The bungeecord is about 3 - 4 mm.
I really like your video's but hate the way you throw equipment about.
How's that?
Hahaha that’s his style, I like it, it makes me laugh.
If your equipment can't handle that, you should invest in better equipment.
It's good to take care when handling your gear, but it should be able to take far more abuse than is displayed in this video. Your regulators will knock against tanks, tables, benches. They may even drop onto the floor or boat deck from time to time. Any half-decent regulator will not take anything but very slight superficial damage from something like that. Just don't drop weights or a cylinder on it.