It took me a bit, but just finished hooking up this camo winches wireless controller, to a new Champion 5000lb winch. Kind of the opposite of this video, but figured maybe I could shed some light on peoples wiring questions, since it was a bit weird to deal with. I removed the wireless board and pulled off the red, black, blue, and white wires from the relays, because I was using a more heavy duty solenoid I had from another winch I just removed from my SXS. The problem I faced was, this camo winches wireless board hooks up to red (positive) and black (negative) like normal, but when you press a button on the remote, it grounds the blue or white wire! But the solenoid that was running my other winch, which was also wired with an in and out wired rocker button in my dash, and works fine wired with my new winch, uses positive power from the switch to the solenoid. When pressing the wired switch in or out, it connects the red (positive) to either the blue or white wire that activates the solenoid. So you can't just hook the wireless controller from the camo winch to this solenoid, because they are opposite polarities... You also can't swap the red and black wires on the wireless controller to switch polarities either, because the wireless controller needs red to be positive and black to be negative in order to work. So I ended up using 2 relays with the wireless controller, 1 for out and one for in. On one of the relays, I hooked a red (positive) to pins 86 and 30, and the blue from the camo wireless controller board to 85, and a blue wire coming off 87 that goes to the blue on the solenoid. On the other relay, I hooked a red (positive) to pins 86 and 30, and the white from the camo wireless controller board to 85, and a white wire coming off 87 that goes to the white on the solenoid. Then hook the red and black from the wireless controller to positive and negative. I just joined the 5 red wires together (2 reds from pins 86 and 30 on both relays, and the red wire from the wireless controller board) to a fused wire from the battery. So what happens is, power runs from the red (positive) from the battery or fuse to pin 86 on the relay, and 85 is then grounded (from either the blue or white wire) when a button on the remote is pressed. This activates/triggers the relay to make a connection between pin 30 (the input power) and pin 87 (the output power). This power output goes to the solenoid, just like the wired switch does which activates the solenoid, which sends power to the winch! I hope this kind of helps, and doesn't just confuse people more... I'm guessing the problem people are having with the newer remote units and this camo winch, is that it gets triggered from the ground or negative, and the newer replacement wireless controllers like the one in the video probably use a positive triggering system.
This video is very helpful, but like numerous other comments listed, you skip over showing which of the 2 yellow wires you cut and where you wired it to on the other side. Can you please give more feedback on this so i can wire it correctly?
Thank you so much for the video! I was able to replace the remote controller for my Badlands 2500# Winch. I had no idea the controller was in the black box/solenoid.
A question from my husband who has the same Harbor Freight winch and wireless remote receiver. He watched your video over and over, and has these questions : I have two yellow/light blue wires that are connected together on the left side box which one wire goes over to the right side box and is connected by itself and the other is connected together to the red wire. Did you cut the yellow/light blue wire connected to the red wire and reattached it to the black wire on the left side box? and also, did you wire nut off the stub of the yellow/light blue wire on the right side box that it was originally connected to? Thank you so much for your video!
The crucial change Todd Morrill determined is that the polarity needed to be changed by relocating one wire that I identify in the paragraph below. To relocate that one wire as well as use the four new wires I simply cut the four existing wires so that there was enough length left so I could join them with the new four wires by using wire nuts. This avoided having to remove and replace the female spade lugs that would have been hard to remove without perhaps damaging something. The wire to be changed is the one that joins the existing red wire near its female spade lug connector. I cut that wire near the female spade lug connector, leaving enough wire so that I could use a wire nut to join it with the two black wires (the one that existed and the new one from the new wireless control unit). I was able to use a small wire nut that could join the wires, and everything, barely, fit back under the case. By the way, there is no need to dismount the whole unit. Only the case on top needs to be removed. My winch now works perfectly with the new wireless remotes. Thank you, Todd!
As the others commented you didn’t show the wiring configuration that you mentioned. Otherwise a good fix I think I can figure it out.where did you get the new remote?
Wow!!! That's some shit work for sure!!! When crimping you should use crimping pliers and by all mean at the very least put all the strands of the conductors inside the terminals!!!!
Can you show how you modified the yellow/green wire. You said you cut it and we're connecting to ground. I'm getting the clicking, same winch and remote now. Any updates on that will help
@@gilliemoe8339 That's a $52 solution to a $49 winch. You don't need a remote anywhere near that strong, the relays are already on the winch, any remote will work. Some say the best option is just a straight wired connection, the winch should have one anyways.
@@stupidbikes9671 I'm going to make a video of the conversion that I did. I bought 1 switch and two relays (the cheap ones broke) and I wired it up to a simple switch. Wasn't that hard, but have to know what wires to use.
It took me a bit, but just finished hooking up this camo winches wireless controller, to a new Champion 5000lb winch.
Kind of the opposite of this video, but figured maybe I could shed some light on peoples wiring questions, since it was a bit weird to deal with.
I removed the wireless board and pulled off the red, black, blue, and white wires from the relays, because I was using a more heavy duty solenoid I had from another winch I just removed from my SXS.
The problem I faced was, this camo winches wireless board hooks up to red (positive) and black (negative) like normal, but when you press a button on the remote, it grounds the blue or white wire! But the solenoid that was running my other winch, which was also wired with an in and out wired rocker button in my dash, and works fine wired with my new winch, uses positive power from the switch to the solenoid. When pressing the wired switch in or out, it connects the red (positive) to either the blue or white wire that activates the solenoid.
So you can't just hook the wireless controller from the camo winch to this solenoid, because they are opposite polarities...
You also can't swap the red and black wires on the wireless controller to switch polarities either, because the wireless controller needs red to be positive and black to be negative in order to work.
So I ended up using 2 relays with the wireless controller, 1 for out and one for in.
On one of the relays, I hooked a red (positive) to pins 86 and 30, and the blue from the camo wireless controller board to 85, and a blue wire coming off 87 that goes to the blue on the solenoid.
On the other relay, I hooked a red (positive) to pins 86 and 30, and the white from the camo wireless controller board to 85, and a white wire coming off 87 that goes to the white on the solenoid.
Then hook the red and black from the wireless controller to positive and negative.
I just joined the 5 red wires together (2 reds from pins 86 and 30 on both relays, and the red wire from the wireless controller board) to a fused wire from the battery.
So what happens is, power runs from the red (positive) from the battery or fuse to pin 86 on the relay, and 85 is then grounded (from either the blue or white wire) when a button on the remote is pressed. This activates/triggers the relay to make a connection between pin 30 (the input power) and pin 87 (the output power). This power output goes to the solenoid, just like the wired switch does which activates the solenoid, which sends power to the winch!
I hope this kind of helps, and doesn't just confuse people more...
I'm guessing the problem people are having with the newer remote units and this camo winch, is that it gets triggered from the ground or negative, and the newer replacement wireless controllers like the one in the video probably use a positive triggering system.
Great video! Made sense to me and I got my winch working again. Thanks!
This video is very helpful, but like numerous other comments listed, you skip over showing which of the 2 yellow wires you cut and where you wired it to on the other side. Can you please give more feedback on this so i can wire it correctly?
Thank you so much for the video! I was able to replace the remote controller for my Badlands 2500# Winch. I had no idea the controller was in the black box/solenoid.
A question from my husband who has the same Harbor Freight winch and wireless remote receiver. He watched your video over and over, and has these questions
: I have two yellow/light blue wires that are connected together on the left side box which one wire goes over to the right side box and is connected by itself and the other is connected together to the red wire. Did you cut the yellow/light blue wire connected to the red wire and reattached it to the black wire on the left side box? and also, did you wire nut off the stub of the yellow/light blue wire on the right side box that it was originally connected to? Thank you so much for your video!
The crucial change Todd Morrill determined is that the polarity needed to be changed by relocating one wire that I identify in the paragraph below. To relocate that one wire as well as use the four new wires I simply cut the four existing wires so that there was enough length left so I could join them with the new four wires by using wire nuts. This avoided having to remove and replace the female spade lugs that would have been hard to remove without perhaps damaging something.
The wire to be changed is the one that joins the existing red wire near its female spade lug connector. I cut that wire near the female spade lug connector, leaving enough wire so that I could use a wire nut to join it with the two black wires (the one that existed and the new one from the new wireless control unit). I was able to use a small wire nut that could join the wires, and everything, barely, fit back under the case.
By the way, there is no need to dismount the whole unit. Only the case on top needs to be removed.
My winch now works perfectly with the new wireless remotes. Thank you, Todd!
Carl, if you see this do you mind replying - I am trying to follow your notes, but it isn't working. Thanks kindly!
As the others commented you didn’t show the wiring configuration that you mentioned. Otherwise a good fix I think I can figure it out.where did you get the new remote?
Can you show and explain how you connected the relays to change the polarity? Thanks.
thanks for the video how fare can you go 25ft?...thanks cheers
Wow!!! That's some shit work for sure!!! When crimping you should use crimping pliers and by all mean at the very least put all the strands of the conductors inside the terminals!!!!
Can you show how you modified the yellow/green wire. You said you cut it and we're connecting to ground. I'm getting the clicking, same winch and remote now. Any updates on that will help
I am in the same situation, I know the winch works
Hi Todd! Could you show me the connection diagram?
Yes me to
Como poner un control que jire asia delante iasiatras
what size are the relays
can you please let me know how to wiring the relay i had one like you but i forgot how to wiring the relay
having the same issue can you help
ua-cam.com/video/8aTIBjdaTk0/v-deo.html
@@gilliemoe8339 That's a $52 solution to a $49 winch. You don't need a remote anywhere near that strong, the relays are already on the winch, any remote will work. Some say the best option is just a straight wired connection, the winch should have one anyways.
@@karljay7473 couple things, though...this winch does not have a wired connection, and the remote replacement costs 19 dollars.
@@stupidbikes9671 I'm going to make a video of the conversion that I did. I bought 1 switch and two relays (the cheap ones broke) and I wired it up to a simple switch. Wasn't that hard, but have to know what wires to use.