Kudos on the video! Most ammo boxes were olive; 58 minie', 58 blanks, 44 Army revolver and Sharp's carbine. 69 minie' was lead color, 69 round ball was blue, 69 buckshot cartridges were red and 36 Navy revolver were blue.
Period nails were wrought iron as opposed to modern steel. Clenching was usually achieved by driving the nails in with a steel block held against the back of the board. Nails(being softer wrought) would bend back before breaking through the surface of the back side(inside of the box on this case). I achieve the same effect in my work by annealing modern cut nails. Video was great, btw.
Thanks and you're absolutely right. You can still purchase wrought nails through some of the vendors I go through but that makes items like these pretty expensive just in nails. I'm really pleased with the softness of the nails from Tremont. Nothing ruins a period piece for me faster than the round head of a wire nail. My hat is off to your metallurgy procedure.
Lots of great woodworking details Sgt. *Liked* the video --- *1st Minn Sharpshooters* channel with Civil War reenactor live fire, hard marching, and rustic adventures ... enlist today.
I'll see what I can do. You can find the full size pattern by searching online, then you'd just need to hit the hardwood dealer. It helps to have a decent band saw and quality blade to go with it when making things like chairs.
Could you please expand on the markings on the front of the box? The caliber/contents markings and armory markings are self-evident, but I'm having trouble finding information about the small markings on the front.
Great question. The markings on the front of the box are my "line numbers." This is a personal stencil identifying this box as mine. Line numbers list Regiment, Company, and line number (in actual company rosters, this would be what your number would be next to your name in an alphabetical list). This stencil is not related to any arsenal labeling. Manuals stated that soldier gear like haversacks and knapsacks should be identified using the company issued stenciling kit. We expand that to label our personal gear in a period correct way. We have about a dozen of these ammo boxes in our company and it helps us keep track which one belongs to who.
I am a cabinet maker but new to re-enacting. Is it "against the rules" to use a box jig? It takes me 5 minutes to make a completed box. Also, why not use dados for the bottom instead of rabbets as they are MUCH stronger? I have to say this was a bit painful to watch.
Welcome to the hobby! In reenacting, it's rarely how we as modern people would make something but rather how they actually made things 160 years ago. There is also a lot personal preference as to how high a priority you or your unit place on authenticity. The box size, dimensions, and construction materials are based on specs found in period manuals and surviving examples. Hammler's books go into great detail on these topics. I'm not sure on the dado part because there aren't any in this construction. You might be referring to the use of tongue and groove joints to join the boards together for a larger panel. This was done because it was common practice during the time, surviving examples have them, and it was in Hammler's instructions. Or you could be referring to running a dado all around the base and recessing the base into the box. In which case, no ammo box during the time was made like that. As to using modern jigs, have at it as long as it matches original specs, if that's what you're going for. The construction methods follow closely with Hammler's book to be a bit of a follow along. Some choices are based on tool accessibility or original tool demonstration. Not all our viewers are professional woodworkers. When I make small consumable boxes, like domino boxes, I use the Incra i-box jig. Finger joints weren't super common yet except in low-end items. In cabinet making, you're in a business where time is certainly money but in reenacting a lot of pride is taken in authenticity. Some woodworkers, like the legendary Peter Follansbee, skip store bought lumber all together and start by dropping their own trees! Thanks for watching, the great question, and let us know if you have any more questions along the way. Happy reenacting.
A.J. Hammler's books have for some reason become rather scarce. Vol 2 is really expensive on Amazon, though Vol 1 is still normally priced. I use vol. 1 the most anyway and has the box instructions in it. Hammler also has quite a bit on his website: ajhamler.com/civil_war_woodworking Old manuals can be found for free in Google library. The 1862 Ordnance manual has quite a bit of interesting information in it.
I found one of these just laying out in the woods, after scaring some homeless people away, it's John Browns old ammo dump, they didn't find anything lol... now, I'm gonna have to go dig all that shit back up lol The wood looked pretty much like new, the tin has a nice patina now....
If you're just trying to hide stuff, yeah. Though, if you wanted a bit of a challenge, some hardware stores will cut boards for you. You can order some cut nails and all you would need is a hammer to make a box. Sometimes you can find suitable boxes affordably at yard sales, flea markets, or antique stores.
You should see the truly heinous box I have sitting in my room right now, I am honestly not sure if an 1865 Confederate arsenal would even accept it, but it does hold together, so I don't really care. Whatever you throw together will probably be fine.
Kudos on the video! Most ammo boxes were olive; 58 minie', 58 blanks, 44 Army revolver and Sharp's carbine. 69 minie' was lead color, 69 round ball was blue, 69 buckshot cartridges were red and 36 Navy revolver were blue.
Michael Fraering can you share a source for that please? also would all ammo boxes be the same size?
Period nails were wrought iron as opposed to modern steel. Clenching was usually achieved by driving the nails in with a steel block held against the back of the board. Nails(being softer wrought) would bend back before breaking through the surface of the back side(inside of the box on this case). I achieve the same effect in my work by annealing modern cut nails. Video was great, btw.
Thanks and you're absolutely right. You can still purchase wrought nails through some of the vendors I go through but that makes items like these pretty expensive just in nails. I'm really pleased with the softness of the nails from Tremont. Nothing ruins a period piece for me faster than the round head of a wire nail. My hat is off to your metallurgy procedure.
Lots of great woodworking details Sgt. *Liked* the video --- *1st Minn Sharpshooters* channel with Civil War reenactor live fire, hard marching, and rustic adventures ... enlist today.
It would be nice to see a how to for a British Enfield rifled musket box ..
I am thinking of making the folding camp chair from A J Hamler’s civil war woodworking volume 2. Could you make a video on making one?
I'll see what I can do. You can find the full size pattern by searching online, then you'd just need to hit the hardwood dealer. It helps to have a decent band saw and quality blade to go with it when making things like chairs.
Its easy
Could you please expand on the markings on the front of the box? The caliber/contents markings and armory markings are self-evident, but I'm having trouble finding information about the small markings on the front.
Great question. The markings on the front of the box are my "line numbers." This is a personal stencil identifying this box as mine. Line numbers list Regiment, Company, and line number (in actual company rosters, this would be what your number would be next to your name in an alphabetical list). This stencil is not related to any arsenal labeling. Manuals stated that soldier gear like haversacks and knapsacks should be identified using the company issued stenciling kit. We expand that to label our personal gear in a period correct way. We have about a dozen of these ammo boxes in our company and it helps us keep track which one belongs to who.
I am a cabinet maker but new to re-enacting. Is it "against the rules" to use a box jig? It takes me 5 minutes to make a completed box. Also, why not use dados for the bottom instead of rabbets as they are MUCH stronger? I have to say this was a bit painful to watch.
Welcome to the hobby! In reenacting, it's rarely how we as modern people would make something but rather how they actually made things 160 years ago. There is also a lot personal preference as to how high a priority you or your unit place on authenticity. The box size, dimensions, and construction materials are based on specs found in period manuals and surviving examples. Hammler's books go into great detail on these topics. I'm not sure on the dado part because there aren't any in this construction. You might be referring to the use of tongue and groove joints to join the boards together for a larger panel. This was done because it was common practice during the time, surviving examples have them, and it was in Hammler's instructions. Or you could be referring to running a dado all around the base and recessing the base into the box. In which case, no ammo box during the time was made like that. As to using modern jigs, have at it as long as it matches original specs, if that's what you're going for. The construction methods follow closely with Hammler's book to be a bit of a follow along. Some choices are based on tool accessibility or original tool demonstration. Not all our viewers are professional woodworkers. When I make small consumable boxes, like domino boxes, I use the Incra i-box jig. Finger joints weren't super common yet except in low-end items. In cabinet making, you're in a business where time is certainly money but in reenacting a lot of pride is taken in authenticity. Some woodworkers, like the legendary Peter Follansbee, skip store bought lumber all together and start by dropping their own trees! Thanks for watching, the great question, and let us know if you have any more questions along the way. Happy reenacting.
@@CompanyD2ndUSSS Where can I get those books?
A.J. Hammler's books have for some reason become rather scarce. Vol 2 is really expensive on Amazon, though Vol 1 is still normally priced. I use vol. 1 the most anyway and has the box instructions in it. Hammler also has quite a bit on his website: ajhamler.com/civil_war_woodworking
Old manuals can be found for free in Google library. The 1862 Ordnance manual has quite a bit of interesting information in it.
I found one of these just laying out in the woods, after scaring some homeless people away, it's John Browns old ammo dump, they didn't find anything lol... now, I'm gonna have to go dig all that shit back up lol
The wood looked pretty much like new, the tin has a nice patina now....
Nice boxes!! But suppose your guy is a cityboy with no skills? Would feed bags/ funny sacks work??
If you're just trying to hide stuff, yeah. Though, if you wanted a bit of a challenge, some hardware stores will cut boards for you. You can order some cut nails and all you would need is a hammer to make a box. Sometimes you can find suitable boxes affordably at yard sales, flea markets, or antique stores.
You should see the truly heinous box I have sitting in my room right now, I am honestly not sure if an 1865 Confederate arsenal would even accept it, but it does hold together, so I don't really care. Whatever you throw together will probably be fine.
@@CompanyD2ndUSSS Do you know if a defarbed wooden 155 howitzer ammo crate would work?
what i'am doing too> Making ammo boxes > Dam metal ammo cans getting to rich for my blood