I bought the turbo tank cleaner. My sediment buildup was above the lowest element. When I removed the lower element in was buried in sediment. The turbo tank cleaner removed all the sediment. I cleaned it for a couple hours…recharging 2 batteries 3 times. Produced about 3 gallons of sediment. Hot water tank is hot, replaced both elements.
You make a good point. This example may not be his own HWH & maybe only for trial & error. But when using it on your own HWH it may not be a streamlined.
i dont know why they just dont make a 2-3 inch port near the bottom that you can access the floor of the tank easily to vaccum, brush etc... ive installed quite a few water heaters over the years and always looking for new trick. this is an interesting concept.
I'd be worried this thing would gouge up the glass lining of the tank, the lower element, the bottom portion of the anode rod if it's not already rotted away, or the dip tube.
There isn't any glass in the tank at all. The 'glass is the fiberglass that surrounds the outside of the metal tank that helps keep the water in the tank hot.
If your tank is full to the point it needs this who cares ....you need a new one or use this which is proven to work for lots of ppl I've seen. Stop worrying so much
@@eugenesigler5468 that’s B.S. almost every water heater tank manufacture lines the inside of their tanks to prevent rust and corrosion. Snake oil is all this is!
I looked very hard at this .. did some research .. I went to draining my water tank , removed , the plastic valve , bought a 4 inch 3/4 nipple , 3/4 ball valve , pipe dope , 2 inch nipple,and cap . Swapped them out ... now have a 3/4 hole to drain the water . Now I do a tank flush every 90 days ,, it’s not a hassle any more ..
That plastic tool should last long enough to save you $. injection molded plastic is a lot cheaper than a water heater, or if that tool was made of metal. If you maintain your stuff you won't have a problem.
I think he was in a hurry lol, he was opening the tank up without draining it. If the water is still hot that's dangerous and if you have carpeting that's a sin lol. I'll set a catch pan and drain mine when I give it a try.
Just paid 2100 dollars to have a new water heater installed. My old one was 31 years old. There was nothing wrong with it other than the drain valve leaked. But I was told if wanted to sell my house I needed to bring it up to code. I figured better to replace it now than wake up with water all over my garage.
Just did a "vinegar cleanse" on my HWH....worked like a charm....popping went away and seems much more efficient. This looks good but really don't want to remove the drain valve.
Well he didn't remove it so I guess not, it probably wouldn't well if you removed the element first, because you would need a full water tank to help flush sediment out
Bought this device and tried to use it today. Only problem is the drain valve won’t loosen up AT ALL!!! If you have an older water heater, you might have the same issue.
@@waterheaterservices I actually got the drain valve loose with a 14 inch pipe wrench and a cheater bar. The product worked fine. Although, I didn't have as much sediment as I thought I would. Water heater still makes knocking noises.
yes...turn off water supply to it...drain tank...hookup device...turn water back on....if you didnt drain it, it would be ALOT of water coming out when swapping.....when draining....open a sink value to open a vent for it to drain faster
As a plumber I find this highly suspect. I see the point but in Canada were I live we have sediment not calcium build up. Also pulling the drain out like that is opening up a can of worms with DIYers trying this and flooding their mech rooms, burning out elements if the tank isn't powered off or worse cross threading the drain or what you did and installed without Teflon tape.
@@craigmuehleip9121 - totally agree with needing to stir up the material but a flexible hose running a water jet would do the same thing did that metal thing slapping around does. I have a three or 4 foot copper tube that I stick in from the anode hole. I drilled a small hole 90 deg in it attach it to a hose and that stirs up the stuff well and exits the ball valve drain I put in at the bottom very well
The spinning agitator is designed merely to stir up the loose sediment deposits at the bottom of the tank so that the flowing water can sweep them into the auger. It is the spinning auger and the powerful force of the water that tare apart the chunks of sediment and pull them inside. The agitator is soft, flexible, has very little mass and will not harm your tank or dip tube in any way.
What about the huge chunks of sediment when you removed that scam? There is some great stuff called Teflon tape and liquid thread sealant I’m a fan of both. You did not apply either to that hose bib sir
I bought the turbo tank cleaner. My sediment buildup was above the lowest element. When I removed the lower element in was buried in sediment. The turbo tank cleaner removed all the sediment. I cleaned it for a couple hours…recharging 2 batteries 3 times. Produced about 3 gallons of sediment. Hot water tank is hot, replaced both elements.
How was your tank? Im assuming you never did maintenance flushes
Outstanding. Great work. Does the turbo cleaner tool works for many times
The Turbo Tank Cleaner is built to last. All of our returns are sent back to us so we can analyze the modes of failure and mitigate the problems.
@@craigmuehleip9121 I have read the negative reviews. This tool has its limits. Snake has broken off. The plastic cracks.
I would wonder if the snake part would hang up on the lower element and brake it. I wish I can get another testimony on it or try it first
You make a good point. This example may not be his own HWH & maybe only for trial & error. But when using it on your own HWH it may not be a streamlined.
That is my same thought.
This is awesome!
I'm glad someone is thinking of solutions.
i dont know why they just dont make a 2-3 inch port near the bottom that you can access the floor of the tank easily to vaccum, brush etc... ive installed quite a few water heaters over the years and always looking for new trick. this is an interesting concept.
They would sell less water heaters if we could clean them better.
So You can buy another one.
Most people are happy with a product if it lasts over 10 yrs
They do...It is the lower element hole, and a 1 1/4" shop vac hose fits in it to remove like scale.
Lime
I'd be worried this thing would gouge up the glass lining of the tank, the lower element, the bottom portion of the anode rod if it's not already rotted away, or the dip tube.
There isn't any glass in the tank at all. The 'glass is the fiberglass that surrounds the outside of the metal tank that helps keep the water in the tank hot.
If your tank is full to the point it needs this who cares ....you need a new one or use this which is proven to work for lots of ppl I've seen. Stop worrying so much
@@eugenesigler5468 that’s B.S. almost every water heater tank manufacture lines the inside of their tanks to prevent rust and corrosion. Snake oil is all this is!
7 yr old gas water heater. Worked great only had 2 cups of sediment here in Texas. Never drained.
Any issues so far? No leaks?
I looked very hard at this .. did some research .. I went to draining my water tank , removed , the plastic valve , bought a 4 inch 3/4 nipple , 3/4 ball valve , pipe dope , 2 inch nipple,and cap . Swapped them out ... now have a 3/4 hole to drain the water . Now I do a tank flush every 90 days ,, it’s not a hassle any more ..
good deal.
Would love to see a picture of this fix?
Checking in on you here. So you've had good success flushing every few months and not having sediment build up like before?
@@evChDev no ,, it still builds up ,, but a 30 min flush , every 3 months , haven’t had elements issues , word great ,,
@@andreaphilipson1847 I don’t know how to send a pic of it
How do you keep it from snapping those plastic threads and dumping the whole tank in your house. Seem like the threads on the tool should be metal.
That plastic tool should last long enough to save you $. injection molded plastic is a lot cheaper than a water heater, or if that tool was made of metal. If you maintain your stuff you won't have a problem.
The plastic will Crack and leak as ot is inserted very tightly. Use Teflon tape and don't screw the tool all the way in.
Would it kill you to put a little Teflon or dope on the threads of the boiler drain before Smash fucking it back in place?
I think he was in a hurry lol, he was opening the tank up without draining it. If the water is still hot that's dangerous and if you have carpeting that's a sin lol. I'll set a catch pan and drain mine when I give it a try.
Just paid 2100 dollars to have a new water heater installed. My old one was 31 years old. There was nothing wrong with it other than the drain valve leaked. But I was told if wanted to sell my house I needed to bring it up to code. I figured better to replace it now than wake up with water all over my garage.
Good grief, was it in a attic or crawl space? I install water heaters, typically $1300 for basement or ground floor installations, 40 gallon, gas.
@@waterheaterservices May I ask where you live?
How come you didn't add thread leak tape? Teflon Tape?
Will this work for a gas waterheater? Or only electric?
Just did a "vinegar cleanse" on my HWH....worked like a charm....popping went away and seems much more efficient. This looks good but really don't want to remove the drain valve.
how much vinegar did you use? i always thought about using CLR (or vinegar)
Vinegar will dissolve small amounts of sediment but doesn't work so well when there are massive sediment buildups.
@@sfcd4757 i used a whole gallon...but see my response to other poster
@@craigmuehleip9121 thinking ur right...about 2 months later popping came back.
how do you get it into the tank
take the annoid rod out?
Wow! That's fantastic! That snake just whips around in there breaking it up? Does the lower element need to be removed first?
Well he didn't remove it so I guess not, it probably wouldn't well if you removed the element first, because you would need a full water tank to help flush sediment out
Pretty cool, whats the service charge on a job like this?
Depends on the market you live in.
Quarter million...
Pesos
Excellent work. Thanks
So that whip/rod isn’t going to snag an element???
Bought this device and tried to use it today. Only problem is the drain valve won’t loosen up AT ALL!!! If you have an older water heater, you might have the same issue.
An 14 inch or 18 pipe wrench usually gets even the worst ones out, were you using Channel Lock type pliers?
@@waterheaterservices I actually got the drain valve loose with a 14 inch pipe wrench and a cheater bar. The product worked fine. Although, I didn't have as much sediment as I thought I would. Water heater still makes knocking noises.
URL to buy. it?
Why would I want to damage the inside of my water tank with this tool?
i still saw sediment coming out when you removed the tool. youre not done. keep flushing
I would like to buy this, but am not clear on whether or not you have to drain all of the water from the tank in order to use it properly.
yes...turn off water supply to it...drain tank...hookup device...turn water back on....if you didnt drain it, it would be ALOT of water coming out when swapping.....when draining....open a sink value to open a vent for it to drain faster
how do I buy one?
you could of use a wet vacuum to suck the water out so you dont make that much of a mess
As a plumber I find this highly suspect. I see the point but in Canada were I live we have sediment not calcium build up. Also pulling the drain out like that is opening up a can of worms with DIYers trying this and flooding their mech rooms, burning out elements if the tank isn't powered off or worse cross threading the drain or what you did and installed without Teflon tape.
cannot buy this anywhere in canada
Hello all, can someone please tell me where this unit can be bought? Amazon site indicates unavailable.
I just looked it up on Amazon. It's in stock for $55.
Clever enough
Why does the sediment appear white inside?
Minerals in n the water and the anode rod
Seems like the snake would damage the lining in the tank which is like a porcelain layer. Not impressed
This tool does not damage your tank, element, or dip tube. It is absolutely necessary to physically stir up
@@craigmuehleip9121 - totally agree with needing to stir up the material but a flexible hose running a water jet would do the same thing did that metal thing slapping around does. I have a three or 4 foot copper tube that I stick in from the anode hole. I drilled a small hole 90 deg in it attach it to a hose and that stirs up the stuff well and exits the ball valve drain I put in at the bottom very well
but that metal whipping round on that porcelean lining is sure to fracture that glass then less than 2 years to new tank
The spinning agitator is designed merely to stir up the loose sediment deposits at the bottom of the tank so that the flowing water can sweep them into the auger. It is the spinning auger and the powerful force of the water that tare apart the chunks of sediment and pull them inside. The agitator is soft, flexible, has very little mass and will not harm your tank or dip tube in any way.
I know u have channel locks, use it
He didn't put any thread sealant on the drain valve
Seen this on tick tock
What about the huge chunks of sediment when you removed that scam? There is some great stuff called Teflon tape and liquid thread sealant I’m a fan of both. You did not apply either to that hose bib sir
Where can you take my money?
Yikes.........