THANK YOU RON , Your videos are extremely helpful and educational specially the way you explain on every steps of restoration is absolutely wonderful. thanks again
Thanks for this series of videos, and this one in particular - it really shows a great example of a real-world approach to checking and monitoring voltages on these old circuits!
Lots of good real time instruction and yes it is helpful. I like what you did with the electrolytics, I do something similar whenever possible to maintain the original look of the chassis (and save space under). Glad you made it through the storm unscathed, I live it Fort Lauderdale and we were very fortunate here.
Thanks Jim... Florida dodged a huge bullet here - we are fortunate. Glad the info is helpful.... its helping me too... LOL... I always try to maintain the profile where possible. Have a great rest of day and thanks for watching. Ron
I first started using Mother's and Nevr dull on my Harleys back in the early 70's. Great stuff. Still have a can of Nevr dull around here somewhere. These vids should really help some people coming into the hobby and need some help and advice. Good stuff Ron.
When 'heavily servicing', or restoring a radio bound for sale or auction, I'd gotten into the habit of taking quite a few picts - while in process, then load them onto a flash drive; and attach to the AC line cord. This really does help prevent "screwdriver inquiries". You are getting these resto's down to near science. Glad that Jax/St. Augustine didn't go for a swim up the St. John's! For me, since I'm a Motorola Two-Way Comm dealer, I printed "serviced by" tags, and attached where convenient. This stops 'horse's - butt type' auctioneers from cutting the AC line cord.
,,, and thank you... Should you ever decide to attend Kutztown, or venture to Pennsylvania Dutch Country for Oktoberfest (brewery hosting Alex is nextdoor), let me know, I'll comp a night's lodging, and intro you to Alex: ua-cam.com/video/9gFMG7gi4uw/v-deo.html (forgive this person's camera work, trust me, the music makes up for it!) Jimi Hendrix of the Accordion: "Crazy Train": ua-cam.com/video/P6HNoEF67M4/v-deo.html Alex on Alpenhorn; at Stoudt's (little kids having a BLAST!): ua-cam.com/video/OI_36kLxyLc/v-deo.html Alex "My Pepperona" Hormel Commercial: ua-cam.com/video/ZzfeRGFZVSM/v-deo.html Food, real, and glorious: facebook.com/pg/wonderfulgood/posts/?ref=page_internal stoudts.com/events/ Trying to get them to book "Valby": "Science": ua-cam.com/video/Eds5hzYA1-E/v-deo.html "Surfin' USAir": ua-cam.com/video/UHMrjQz0U-o/v-deo.html
Great videos and teaching Ron. Question: when wiring in the neutral from the power cord, I'm having trouble seeing where it attaches to the rectifier based on the schematic. It looks as though it attaches to the power line antenna connection and also to the transformer. Could you please clarify for this newbie ?
Just remember that in 1930 and 1940 there was no such thing as neutral. There was no such thing as a polarized cord so the schematic would not have a different differentiation between neutral and hot. Every side could be hot and every side could be neutral. The way you wanna wire it is you want your hot side to go through the switch this way you know power is always cut off. I hope that helps.
Great series, well thought out and very structured. I like the organization and process you used. I just have a couple of questions. Would a watt meter be enough to use as a current limiter instead of the light bulb?. Do you check the low impedance side (foil side) of the filter caps, especially with non-polar type ( ceramics, polypropylene, orange drops, etc. ) with an oscilloscope ? Thanks again.
Ron, the watt meter would not be helpful here.. The theory behind the bulb is that it takes the brunt of a short and protects the transformer. A watt meter would tell you how bad things where but not protect the transformer. For caps, I generally do not check for foil side but am considering a good way to do that, that is practical. Thanks for your comments, appreciate it very much.
@@rciancia Thanks. There are a couple of ways. 1. Use a scope and set the sensitivity to 5 volt/div. hook the leads to the cap. Put your finger on the cap (acts as an antenna, increase the attenuation) Switch leads and do the same thing. Lower attenuation is the foil side. Some caps are difficult to tell. A trick is to put some aluminum foil around the cap with your finger on it. 2. Mr Carlson's lab has a cool device you can make, see his video: ua-cam.com/video/Bnr_DLd1PDI/v-deo.html. I can't think of any other way, but if you come up with one, I am all ears. Cheers.
Yeah, I'm watching at 1.5x speed; I hear you. I like to see how others approach restoration so I'll stick with it. Not sure I approve of how the line cord gets inside the chassis. Doesn't appear to be a grommet between the chord and the metal. No strain relief evident, either. But I couldn't see everything. No need to diss on previous repairmen. We don't know their circumstances such as age, experience level, tools, or how much money they could spend.
Forgot to add, I use in-line fuse holders on the line cord if I'm short of room, otherwise I mount the fuse on the back of the chassis. Save those old transformers!
THANK YOU RON , Your videos are extremely helpful and educational specially the way you explain on every steps of restoration is absolutely wonderful. thanks again
Thank you so much !!!
I've been watching this whole series. Thanks for sharing all this knowledge
Thanks for this series of videos, and this one in particular - it really shows a great example of a real-world approach to checking and monitoring voltages on these old circuits!
My pleasure to help. I had hoped people would find this useful. Thank you for watching !!!
All good data points to ponder and consider. Like the out of the box approach you came up with on the ecaps. Great work.
Now that's how to get the most out of a 20 minute repair job !
Lots of good real time instruction and yes it is helpful. I like what you did with the electrolytics, I do something similar whenever possible to maintain the original look of the chassis (and save space under). Glad you made it through the storm unscathed, I live it Fort Lauderdale and we were very fortunate here.
Thanks Jim... Florida dodged a huge bullet here - we are fortunate. Glad the info is helpful.... its helping me too... LOL... I always try to maintain the profile where possible. Have a great rest of day and thanks for watching. Ron
I first started using Mother's and Nevr dull on my Harleys back in the early 70's. Great stuff. Still have a can of Nevr dull around here somewhere. These vids should really help some people coming into the hobby and need some help and advice. Good stuff Ron.
Thanks bud. I do hope I help someone learn something. Thats the plan anyway. :)
When 'heavily servicing', or restoring a radio bound for sale or auction, I'd gotten into the habit of taking quite a few picts - while in process, then load them onto a flash drive; and attach to the AC line cord. This really does help prevent "screwdriver inquiries". You are getting these resto's down to near science. Glad that Jax/St. Augustine didn't go for a swim up the St. John's!
For me, since I'm a Motorola Two-Way Comm dealer, I printed "serviced by" tags, and attached where convenient. This stops 'horse's - butt type' auctioneers from cutting the AC line cord.
Tim, I love the flash drive idea! Very cool!!! Thanks for watching- learning tons every day. Florida was spared thank god!!!!! Thanks sir
,,, and thank you... Should you ever decide to attend Kutztown, or venture to Pennsylvania Dutch Country for Oktoberfest (brewery hosting Alex is nextdoor), let me know, I'll comp a night's lodging, and intro you to Alex: ua-cam.com/video/9gFMG7gi4uw/v-deo.html
(forgive this person's camera work, trust me, the music makes up for it!)
Jimi Hendrix of the Accordion:
"Crazy Train": ua-cam.com/video/P6HNoEF67M4/v-deo.html
Alex on Alpenhorn; at Stoudt's (little kids having a BLAST!): ua-cam.com/video/OI_36kLxyLc/v-deo.html
Alex "My Pepperona" Hormel Commercial:
ua-cam.com/video/ZzfeRGFZVSM/v-deo.html
Food, real, and glorious:
facebook.com/pg/wonderfulgood/posts/?ref=page_internal
stoudts.com/events/
Trying to get them to book "Valby":
"Science": ua-cam.com/video/Eds5hzYA1-E/v-deo.html
"Surfin' USAir": ua-cam.com/video/UHMrjQz0U-o/v-deo.html
Great videos and teaching Ron. Question: when wiring in the neutral from the power cord, I'm having trouble seeing where it attaches to the rectifier based on the schematic. It looks as though it attaches to the power line antenna connection and also to the transformer. Could you please clarify for this newbie ?
Just remember that in 1930 and 1940 there was no such thing as neutral. There was no such thing as a polarized cord so the schematic would not have a different differentiation between neutral and hot. Every side could be hot and every side could be neutral. The way you wanna wire it is you want your hot side to go through the switch this way you know power is always cut off. I hope that helps.
Multimeter is draining the caps but the voltage is going up, please explain ...
Replace the CAPs!
Following intently...
Great series, well thought out and very structured. I like the organization and process you used. I just have a couple of questions. Would a watt meter be enough to use as a current limiter instead of the light bulb?. Do you check the low impedance side (foil side) of the filter caps, especially with non-polar type ( ceramics, polypropylene, orange drops, etc. ) with an oscilloscope ? Thanks again.
Ron, the watt meter would not be helpful here.. The theory behind the bulb is that it takes the brunt of a short and protects the transformer. A watt meter would tell you how bad things where but not protect the transformer. For caps, I generally do not check for foil side but am considering a good way to do that, that is practical. Thanks for your comments, appreciate it very much.
@@rciancia Thanks. There are a couple of ways. 1. Use a scope and set the sensitivity to 5 volt/div. hook the leads to the cap. Put your finger on the cap (acts as an antenna, increase the attenuation) Switch leads and do the same thing. Lower attenuation is the foil side. Some caps are difficult to tell. A trick is to put some aluminum foil around the cap with your finger on it. 2. Mr Carlson's lab has a cool device you can make, see his video: ua-cam.com/video/Bnr_DLd1PDI/v-deo.html. I can't think of any other way, but if you come up with one, I am all ears. Cheers.
Nice series Ron, BTW where did you buy that Mothers brand wax?
Wal-Mart does not carry it and neither does Home Depot.
Bill- I got it from Amazon.
And thank you !! I am having fun making this series.
Bill, Walmart has it but it's called Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish,,,, not wax.
Walmart, but in automotive department.
It is not in my WalMart Ron.
Drag it out why dont you
Let me check your videos Karen
Yeah, I'm watching at 1.5x speed; I hear you. I like to see how others approach restoration so I'll stick with it. Not sure I approve of how the line cord gets inside the chassis. Doesn't appear to be a grommet between the chord and the metal. No strain relief evident, either. But I couldn't see everything. No need to diss on previous repairmen. We don't know their circumstances such as age, experience level, tools, or how much money they could spend.
Forgot to add, I use in-line fuse holders on the line cord if I'm short of room, otherwise I mount the fuse on the back of the chassis. Save those old transformers!