I tried the same experiment a few months ago. I tried the same things with the same results. Finally i bought a dowell plate and made my dowels. I know you have one of those too. Good luck!
I'm actually glad to have found this video because I had exactly the same experience recently having been duped by those highly edited (faked?) videos which made it look so easy to bore a hole, clamp on a chisel or plane blade and make perfect dowels. I'm relieved to realise that its not just me that was rubbish at doing this!
I'd suggest planing the block so the iron is at an angle in reference to the length of the dowel in both axis, length and height. The edge of the iron would be a bit higher on the feed side. This would create a cone to feed into. You'd end up taking shallower cuts going in and might reduce the tearout.
06:48 But James: It will be _happiness & roses_ with a power drill providing a few more *rpm* . If you're turning the wood by hand, no wonder it splinters.
I've tried a number of methods. The one you have presented here seems to be good for others, but I have the same problems you experienced. Some thoughts for further research.....Less taper on the inlet. On the outlet, when the dowel gets beyond the exit enough the extension wobbles a lot, especially with smaller dowels, screws up the thickness at the point of planing. Have had a problem with the plane blade lifting when feeding, clamping securely at the end of the blade helps,. I'm thinking of a few things to try. 1. Make the jig thicker, especially on the outlet. I'm thinking of 3" to 6" from entry to exit. Maybe a 2 step feed, using two blades set at slightly different diameters 2. Trim the rough stock as small as possible in an octagon shape before feeding into the jig. 3. Outlet support, maybe feed the outlet side into a pipe for support. 4. Consider ways to burnish the outlet for a smoother dowel 5. Sand paper strip on the outlet side to smooth. I appreciate your videos, great ideas.
Mount the cutting blade at an incline tangent to the taper angle. When you planed the top surface you planed it level tangent. Plane the flat "up hill" to the hole to incline the blade into the cut.And cut the corners off the dowel to make it an octagon. That will really help.
You may have already done this James, but there is an episode of Woodwright's Shop where Roy Undersell made a spindle maker. It is also in one of his many books (I don't remember which one). Keep having fun.
the edge of a planer blade is too aggressive for hitting the grain like that. It may need a very sharp angle. Like 22* off. What would happen if you used the whole planer across the grain of a board?
Maybe a circular collar with a square hole in the middle of the frame with a circular hole for the collar to rotate in set off from the cutter to ensure the axis of rotation is constant? Possibly just a hole whose diameter is the same as the squares diagonal
I've never attempted to build one of these, though I've thought about it, so I'm just guessing what might be part of your problem. I think that the "exit" side of the blade should be tangential to the "12 o'clock" position of the guide hole and not go past that point. Similar to making a circle jig for a band saw. If you feed the material too deep such that the pivot is past where the teeth of the blade are cutting, you get binding. I think a similar thing is happening here.
Sooo its kinda like a pencil sharpener. I can think of an improvement but im not sure how to describe it.. Its something like make the planer blade approach the angle of an end grain cut. Then take off less aggressive amounts of shavings
If you're going to use a plane blade as the cutter, then use the lever cap too. Just drive a screw in partway like how it is on the plane and use the lever cap hold it down. The pressure will be applied closer to the cutting edge and will cause less chatter.
So what exact type of windex or w/e should I be using for my diamond stones? I bought some and it turned my stones orangish...(Citrus Solvent in the cleaner I'm guessing) Yeah I'm up to 320 dollars in dmt diamond stones now so it sucks to damage them. Edit: If you'd be kind enough to answer a second question where did you pick up those auger bits? Mine are all much older and a different style.
I just use the cheapest window cleaner I can find for him I got it from the dollar store. As to the bits those are wood owl. Here's a video with more info if you want to see it. ua-cam.com/video/1IfgVb4UmQY/v-deo.html
Bazen Kültür Şoku yaşıyorum. Neler yaptığınızı tam anlayamıyorum. Milyar dolarları yöneten UA-cam yıl 2023 olmasına rağmen hala her ülke diline videoları çevirebilme yeteneği yok. Ama Reklamları hiç aksatmadan izletiyor
@@WoodByWright Size lafım yok, Milyarlarca dolar kazananlar insanların kolaylığı için çaba sarfetmiyorlar, Mesela sizin videolarda Türkçe alt yazı desteği yok. İngilizce öğrenmemiş olmak bizim hatamız mı.
I have a whole channel for that. ua-cam.com/channels/QNFJVAUF-qWtK0dawxcOaQ.html this channel is for the people that do not like talking. if you see a video here there is always a corresponding video on the other channel with all the explanation.
I tried the same experiment a few months ago. I tried the same things with the same results. Finally i bought a dowell plate and made my dowels. I know you have one of those too. Good luck!
When Pinocchio poops, it's called a dowel movement.
Why did Pinocchio fail as a stand up comic? They said his delivery was too wooden....😁
Damn it take my like
Damn it take my like
Damn it take my like
I'm actually glad to have found this video because I had exactly the same experience recently having been duped by those highly edited (faked?) videos which made it look so easy to bore a hole, clamp on a chisel or plane blade and make perfect dowels.
I'm relieved to realise that its not just me that was rubbish at doing this!
I'd suggest planing the block so the iron is at an angle in reference to the length of the dowel in both axis, length and height. The edge of the iron would be a bit higher on the feed side. This would create a cone to feed into. You'd end up taking shallower cuts going in and might reduce the tearout.
06:48 But James: It will be _happiness & roses_ with a power drill providing a few more *rpm* . If you're turning the wood by hand, no wonder it splinters.
I've tried a number of methods. The one you have presented here seems to be good for others, but I have the same problems you experienced. Some thoughts for further research.....Less taper on the inlet. On the outlet, when the dowel gets beyond the exit enough the extension wobbles a lot, especially with smaller dowels, screws up the thickness at the point of planing. Have had a problem with the plane blade lifting when feeding, clamping securely at the end of the blade helps,. I'm thinking of a few things to try. 1. Make the jig thicker, especially on the outlet. I'm thinking of 3" to 6" from entry to exit. Maybe a 2 step feed, using two blades set at slightly different diameters 2. Trim the rough stock as small as possible in an octagon shape before feeding into the jig. 3. Outlet support, maybe feed the outlet side into a pipe for support. 4. Consider ways to burnish the outlet for a smoother dowel 5. Sand paper strip on the outlet side to smooth. I appreciate your videos, great ideas.
Mount the cutting blade at an incline tangent to the taper angle. When you planed the top surface you planed it level tangent. Plane the flat "up hill" to the hole to incline the blade into the cut.And cut the corners off the dowel to make it an octagon. That will really help.
like how you work that rat tail son!
Keep searching and trying, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
You may have already done this James, but there is an episode of Woodwright's Shop where Roy Undersell made a spindle maker. It is also in one of his many books (I don't remember which one). Keep having fun.
the edge of a planer blade is too aggressive for hitting the grain like that. It may need a very sharp angle. Like 22* off. What would happen if you used the whole planer across the grain of a board?
Maybe a circular collar with a square hole in the middle of the frame with a circular hole for the collar to rotate in set off from the cutter to ensure the axis of rotation is constant? Possibly just a hole whose diameter is the same as the squares diagonal
I've never attempted to build one of these, though I've thought about it, so I'm just guessing what might be part of your problem. I think that the "exit" side of the blade should be tangential to the "12 o'clock" position of the guide hole and not go past that point. Similar to making a circle jig for a band saw. If you feed the material too deep such that the pivot is past where the teeth of the blade are cutting, you get binding. I think a similar thing is happening here.
Maybe a higher, and most of all; more consistent speed to drive the wood through the "dowelmaker" could improve the results?
What about a steeper angle over a longer span? take a 2" thick wider and make the hole longer with wider blade
To fail is to learn, noble Sir.
Is it not a mater of speed in the turning? More speed delivers smaler aka nicer cut?
Sooo its kinda like a pencil sharpener.
I can think of an improvement but im not sure how to describe it..
Its something like make the planer blade approach the angle of an end grain cut. Then take off less aggressive amounts of shavings
Watching this was extremely satisfying 😅🤷♂️
If you're going to use a plane blade as the cutter, then use the lever cap too. Just drive a screw in partway like how it is on the plane and use the lever cap hold it down. The pressure will be applied closer to the cutting edge and will cause less chatter.
Thanks for sharing that!
Looks like your blade angle needs to be changed so that it is more of a sheering cut instead of a scraper cut.
A shaggy dowel could be good for glue...
Hi James, what brand are those brace bits from? Greetings from Germany 😊
they are Wood Owl bits. lddy.no/oxa7
I did it that way, put the end of it in a drill, more speed it will cut cleaner
You don't need fancy tools to make mistakes. Yup! My life is proof of that.
Try a scrub plane blade
So what exact type of windex or w/e should I be using for my diamond stones? I bought some and it turned my stones orangish...(Citrus Solvent in the cleaner I'm guessing) Yeah I'm up to 320 dollars in dmt diamond stones now so it sucks to damage them. Edit: If you'd be kind enough to answer a second question where did you pick up those auger bits? Mine are all much older and a different style.
I just use the cheapest window cleaner I can find for him I got it from the dollar store. As to the bits those are wood owl. Here's a video with more info if you want to see it. ua-cam.com/video/1IfgVb4UmQY/v-deo.html
I made several of the same type of jig and got the same crappy results. Ended ip buying dowels.
Appreciate you
This jig is not for handmade. Here you need to use an electro tool.
You mean a drizzle?
failures are successes ....... very deep
Looks like Irritable Dowel Syndrome...
Equal and opposite should do it by hand
Blade should be at an angle to the hole. Think of a manual pencil sharpener
comment down below
Painful video to watch. You should clamp the blade so you can adjust angle. Try making octagonal shape first.
Your dowel making is not so good yet but I DO LIKE your attitude!
The blade should be at a angle for a smoother cut.
Have a bunch of good idea projects in the trash 😂. Keep trying.
Bazen Kültür Şoku yaşıyorum. Neler yaptığınızı tam anlayamıyorum. Milyar dolarları yöneten UA-cam yıl 2023 olmasına rağmen hala her ülke diline videoları çevirebilme yeteneği yok. Ama Reklamları hiç aksatmadan izletiyor
I'm experimenting with making a tenon cutter. I'm trying to learn by trial and error
@@WoodByWright Size lafım yok, Milyarlarca dolar kazananlar insanların kolaylığı için çaba sarfetmiyorlar, Mesela sizin videolarda Türkçe alt yazı desteği yok. İngilizce öğrenmemiş olmak bizim hatamız mı.
tahta parçalarını birleştirmek için kendi dübel çubuklarını yapmanın bir yolunu yapmaya çalışıyor.
The science of a pencil sharpener eludes you😅😅😅
Comment comment comment
Comment comment, comment?
Not wasting my time where the content creator is either unwilling or unable to speak and articulate their process.
I have a whole channel for that. ua-cam.com/channels/QNFJVAUF-qWtK0dawxcOaQ.html this channel is for the people that do not like talking. if you see a video here there is always a corresponding video on the other channel with all the explanation.