Help us Hit 300K subs and Grow Subscribe/Like for FREE Tech support- Please post "TV model" and "problem" and i'll reply with a common solution. Support this channel by getting a Capacitor kit for TV board repair- amzn.to/2gEH5Lt Thanks for the support! Let's bring back TV repair! Follow me on Instagram for giveaways and tech reviews instagram.com/tampatec/
Cheers for the video content! Sorry for chiming in, I would appreciate your thoughts. Have you heard about - Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (search on google)? It is a great one of a kind product for learning how to repair electronic items like a wizard minus the hard work. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my mate finally got great results with it.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else trying to find out how repair computer try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my friend got excellent results with it.
I am 35 years as an electronics engineer, with massive fault finding experience. Sure a good multimeter (DMM) is the backbone of your test tools but my fault finding life changed the day I started using a V-I trace (curve trace) about 25 years ago. One reason it beats a DMM for resistive & V drop tests is it uses an AC drive source to test rather than DC as in a DMM. The first one I had was a home made unit from a magazine article which plugged into my scope but then I got a good a PC based instrument (Diagnosis Pinoint which does a lot of other funky stuff like boundary scan & ITC back driving) that displayed several ranges on the screen at the same time. The V-I trace lets you very quickly see the unusual without having to interpret numbers then you can use a good DMM to confirm it. Nowadays there are cheap V-I trace units. The advice about bulging elec caps is spot on. If they are not generating heat themselves, they have been subject to it. Never re-install a capacitor you removed to test...bin it & replace.
Nice Video. You provided a lot of good basic tips for testing some of the basic components that usually fail in just about everything. Most of the time, if a circuit instantly blows a fuse it's probably something made from Silicon like a Diode, Bridge Rectifier or a Transistor. If the fuse doesn't blow it's usually an Electrolytic Capacitor. You pretty much have to desolder and remove them from most boards to test them properly. If all of these guys are good look for an OPEN Resistor. Another good tip is Resistors do not short, they Open when they die. I also like that you mentioned the phrase "When in Doubt, Take it Out". That's the best way to test most components with a multimeter. If you can learn how to test the maybe 5-8 basic components with a multimeter you can quickly find the solution to most problems in electronics without a schematic. Good Job!
I noticed that when you prepare a component for testing, you so called take it out of circuit. Be aware that although this saves time, this method has some pitfalls. For the viewers out there, the component should be physically removed from the pcb. If you leave it in situ, the hole could be through plated & there will still be an electrical contact or another issue is that while desoldering it, a minute amount of solder could still be remaining ,hence still making contact with the pcb (though unlikely) it can happen in some situations. Other techniques that can be used: is if it's a diode , resistor (axial) etc just unsolder one side and lift the desoldered leg clear. If it has 3 legs, unsolder 2 of them and bend the component sideways to clear the 2 legs for testing. Cheers !
Hey, I just wanted to say that I can tell that you do this just because you like to help others. You seem like a good egg and I hope that success finds you and rewards you for your kindness if it hasn't already :)
Great video. It was nice to see you double check that diode that first appeared open. For years I worked with supposedly good technicians that didn't have the sense to do that. Then they would say that all kinds of parts were bad and the board should be replaced. When in reality, it was only 1 or 2 bad parts, or even none (bad or missing solder was a common problem).
At 3:00- you can't check a bridge like this. From a single terminal to the other three, two connections will read like diodes but the third connection will be reading two diodes in series. That's where the 0.9v is coming from, roughly 0.5v + 0.5v in series = 1 (0.9 actual reading in your case) It's clever how you cut out the section of the between using the solder sucker to testing the components. I imagine because it's not a simple matter of hitting the lead once with a solder sucker to clear out the hole and it probably took a good deal of fiddling around to get it clean enough to test like you do. If it's not very clear of solder the lead is going to short to the sides.I'd be surprised if you were able to do it at all. It's easier to pull the part out and test it as in that case you don't have to get the hole perfectly clean.
Right Davey Hi And another thing is, some of rectifiers i get even done 0.3 and 0.25 and work perfectly this depends of the power of de diodes a rectifier of 2 Amps can give you 0.5 but a rectifier of 8 Amps can give you readings of 0.3 and even 0.2 in the diode scale mode. And a rectifier when goes bad is 80% some diode goes short and 20% they can goes open and thats it i never see any rectifier alter interior pn or np juncion in others values and working bad. Just my opinion.
Great video for someone starting out. I started out fixing old tube sets, nowdays you can find CRT tv's by the curb or as friends etc. not to throw them away, they are good to practice on.
Thanks this is very helpful. I haven't soldered in years and have never repaired a TV. I own a TV that is famous for failed power supplies. I removed the PS and have noted the tops of most of the capacitors are puffed outwards. With help from your video I'm going to test and probably replace them. If that doesn't fix the TV then I'm only out a few bucks and got some practice testing and replacing components.
5:21 - the diode in that position will appear to read as a "short" because it's in parallel with the windings of that transformer. You can see the traces coming from the transformer. ;)
This is an excellent video, very informative. We'll be repairing some damaged power supplies this week in our semiconductors class. It's always good to watch and learn from a professional before attempting the work.
Right on A Fluke 12 easiest meter ever to use!!!! I loved my Fluke 12!! I have serval Flukes now but still one of my all time favorites was the fluke 12!!!
Been looking through your postings and i want to express my thanks. I've become a bit rusty when it comes to my electronic skills (they've been neglected for the last 3-4 years or so) and your postings have helped brush off the cobwebs. Well made videos, good sound and picture quality...keep up the good work, mate! Greetings from across the pond (the atlantic ocean) ;) Ted
Enjoy your video and thanks for sharing. But if you don’t mind maybe can you use a less loud music? If i on the volume loud enough to hear your voice and when the music start to play, Everyone in my family will shout at me to lower the volume. Thank you so much for your time in sharing all your knowledge with us. Forgive me if you feel that I am rude. Thank you.
Sorry. New to this. When testing is the power on and/ or is it plugged in? BTW great informative video. Just bought a multimeter and only test batteries. I’d like to explore other things now like I have a old tv remote, PS3/4 motherboard,USB Cords and would like to learn how to use more settings on my meter. This video is great but I don’t know that if the thing in testing is powered up by battery or AC while testing and if I’ll get shocked. Sorry just asking
What kind of soldering iron are you using in this video? I am looking for a new Soldering iron or soldering station and yours looks like it works amazingly well. I have only owned 2 so far. One was a 20W Weller when in high school. And the current on is 30W off brand that was really cheap price wise. But worked ok until it started to melt the casing or handle. I am willing to spend a little more money if I can get something of great built quality and wanted to see what you recommend.
Just a small criticism ... You appeared to be doing the work on backside of the TV with the vents visible just a few inches away - I know You wouldn't usually work this way but it sets a bad example ... when I test simple 2 to 4 pin components I always pull out of ckt , this way I know its good & the solder joints are all good .. keep going with videos , they are great .. I wish they had UA-cam when I taught myself electronics starting at age 12 , strictly reading from books I took out of library , different world ( 1960's )
***** cool thanks, sometimes i ask shopjimmy.com techs when i get stuck, but Tcon board controls picture and main board is the brains of the TV and power board powers all the tv boards on so i would start with power board first and check dc volts to video boards.
It sounds like you're saying Mega Farads :) On a different note, just removing solder from the legs doesn't necessarily guarantee that the component is out of circuit.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else trying to find out how repair computer try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my friend got excellent results with it.
So, what was the outcome of this video? 😊 I have a Finlux 22 inch TV with no standby and I want to rule out power board issues. After testing all of these points what would be the next option? Cheers! Btw - I dig your channel!
Thank you for your videos. I have a samsung tv that blinks once when plugging in the power cord, but is blank with no picture afterwords. Before this happend it was turning off randomly then rebooting itself after a few seconds. I know the common fix is bad capacitors, but I took the power supply board to my two local electronic stores and both agreed that none of the capacitors looked blown or oozing out fluid. I replaced a good amount of them today and it is still not working. Do you have any idea what the issue might be? Thanks!
share this video to anyone it may interest and like the vid if it was informative, thanks for your support. fluke multimeter ..amzn.to/1I6yRPJ 20 dollar good auto range meter ..amzn.to/1T6AAec ISO-tip rechargeable soldering iron- amzn.to/1Z4CygA Butane soldering iron- amzn.to/1S3acEx Weller electric soldering station- amzn.to/1O9Ui5k
+Tampatec Thanks for the vid. I am trying to repair my Samsung LCD power supply. It does not switch on and standby light remain off. I have changed the main 6 capacitors even though they did not seem blown, to no avail. I have noted that whilst the PSU is being supplied with power, it is not converting to DC properly. The the connector which connects to PSU to the TCON board has no power on any pin. Even the PSU fuse- only 4v are passing through it and it is a 250v fuse (europe voltage). The bridge rectifier is good. Input AC 220 and output DC over 300V. I assume this is good or shall I still test it out of the circuit? Where would you suspect this is coming from? The transformer or something else? Also there is a white resistor 5W R12K which is slightly deformed on top (not smooth)... or is this normal? Thanks again.
+Tampatec Thanks for the quick reply. The bridge rectifier is good. With the power on Input AC 220 and output DC over 300V. I assume this is good or shall I still test it out of the circuit? Re Voltage Rugulator... should there be only one as I am seeing 6 or more components which look like it all screwed to heat sinks. How can I recognise it?
That's a great video.... but in the the very end when he was testing the capacitor I thought he would say the capicitor was the problem afterwards... but then the video just came to the end. D:
Ted Mieske He doesn't know. He was just randomly testing easily tested parts. Unless the problem just happened to be one of these parts this process won't find the problem. The basic assumption that the board is bad because the standby power is low is incorrect as a short or fault on another board can load down the voltage and cause the same symptoms.
BRO,, you are a very smart man ,, I GOT MAD RESPECT FOR YOUR TALENTS,, I could never do this kinda stuff but now I know what some of this stuff looks like when I see it . Thanks God we have people like you in the TV business. AWESOME VIDEO BRO !!!!!
Congradulation for video, When you mention 120Vdc at power input it's 120 vac (alternating current) When you are testing any component that you desolder the terminals and measure, this is not out of circuit because there could be a extremely thin solder touching the circuit and will give you a faulty reading.
Awesome video op. I do have a question what kind or iron solder is good to use?Are those $5 iron solder good enough or should I buy a better one and where to get that kind of multimeter
Wow what kind of soldering iron you are using? I'm looking to buy a new one becuase I have one of 60 watts and when I use it I feel like if I'm using a 10 watts soldering iron drives me crazy -.-. BTW nice video thanks to you I have learned a lot and when I have doubts I always use your video as reference. Keep up the good work.
First off great vids man, ive got a lg plasma where the stand by stays on push the power no response no relay clicking, stand by is 5.3, all caps seem good, sny ideas, just need a place to start tia
thx alot brother keep doing like these stuff ... actually am power engineerin but am too bad practically only good doing mathmitical exams lol its soo usefull
Thanks Tampatec, you explain in easy to follow instructions ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge ! The little schematics are fantastic and explains with technical details ! Wonderful mate ...!
Hi, thanks for the video, i am learning something here. I am just starting to learn on repairing electronic device. Just asking if you could help me out.. from my tiny information, a capacitor is blocking dc current. If the capacitor is lead, then the dc current could pass thru capacitor? Is that right? And By using the multimeter on dc current option, can i get a reading of dc with each probe on each capacitor leg? Thanks again!
Is it possible to unsolder only one leg of a component and then check the reading with a VOM? I enjoy your video clips and watch all of them. Thanks for all the efforts you expend in making them.
HI wonderful video, can you do a video on how to repair atx power supply, how to test elements, and witch are the elements that fail, i want to learn on how to repair any power supply, thanks.
start by reading output volts like 5dc volts ect.. I did a video on my repair playlist. for more info check out google helpouts, use code paul51p for free video google helpout. search tv pc repair.
Hi. Thanks for sharing. By the way I think this is the most wanted video at the moment coz' of advanced in electronic parts: how to check (if good or bad) SMT or SMD: capacitors (how does one know the value on SMD capacitors), resistors, transistor and other SMD or SMT components, along with how to read their value on the surface of say an SMD capacitor. Could they be seen if and SMD capacitor or resistor is bad just by looking at it like with blown capacitors? Thank you in advance. God bless, Rev. 21:4
Hey nice vid...but one thing what about newer LCD TV's where they use a power brick and the power board is built in...how are you testing smd bridge rectifiers diodes and capacitors
I wish there was youtube when I attempted to make a living repairing AV gear. I used to sometimes used a lazy trick of cutting one end of the component I was testing, to do a out of circuit measurement. Then resolder the re-joined leg of the component on top of the board, if it was ok. I am not proud of it. But I guess you probably know about that one. ;) btw there used to be a capacitor tester that was supposed to be able to test cap,s in circuit as it used a low voltage I think. Also ESR reading. Am I right? Anyhow. Keep up the great work. Cheers
Have you worked on Power electronics like VFD and UPS. I am facing problems with AEG UPS. Protect 3 10KVA model. I wanted to know how to get the Circuit diagram for trouble shooting, Your Video was helpful Thanks for sharing.
Sorry, ***** but checking parts that are soldered in circuit is a bit dummy because all near parts can have influence on the part that you're testing and you get false results. Only simple situations can be checked for example short circuit inside a part, but checking other values don't make sense. Try to check a resistor for it's value while it's in parallel to other one. Or capacitor. You get false result. And the examples go on. But still it's very nice that you put you videos online. Best regards!
Thanks for the reply mate appreciate it and for the info. Odd thing is this short only just started happening after I done a capkit :S It's a Kortek KTN 20
Great presentation! I took a power board to follow your steps and came across 3 look like transistors, but upon researching found that they are N Channel Power Mosfets. Can you explain what they are and are they similar to a transistor. I know mosfets I have dealt with (8 leg)have a source, gate and a drain . How do you test these? I get .455 on one side and OL on the other side. The part number is K3561 AND K3683. Thanks for the advice and great videos................Phil
Tampatec, Very informative video. I'm in my training wheels mode when it comes to component level troubleshooting. What brand solder sucker was that? I didn't see it on the list. My next question was I saw you have a butane soldering gun. In what instances would you use that over a electric 40 watt pencil. I suspect there must be times when instant very high heat is needed? I was reading about installing optical lasers or readers and you have to reach a certain temp on them earlier when you install them and how sensitive they are to static, ie. unplug soldering gun when up to temp. I did some work at a hospital and picked up 2 identical Samsung 50-55" flat screens for free. Haven't powered them up yet but I'm hoping they have a easy to fix power supply issue as they were marked 'Dead no power"and hoping to get one of the 2 working using the second for parts if needed. Free is a good price to start from. I know it is very important to drain the capacitors in a TV after you power down or at least it was in older TV's. Do you have a video on how to do that? I know you need to put them to ground. I'm in the process of learning how to restore old radios which is certainly a lot easier in terms of component size and simplicity. And to clarify the 0.3 to 0.7 reading on the diode one way is a resistance reading so that is Ohms?Thanks and looking forward to your other vids, Doug
Do you test control boards for customers, or only your own? I have a thermador freezer board I would like to test, but it appears to be above my skills. I am in the Tampa area.
I must agree, great video but you leave us hanging, easy edit fix, no worries. I have searched your other videos for a fix for my Panasonic Viera 50" Plasma ( TC-50PX14 ). The Red light comes on solid, does not Blink and then shuts off after 4-6 seconds ( no picture, no sound ) it just shuts off. I will test the Power Supply Board first, but Is this something you have ever heard of or come across? I thank you. Geo
I got an Emerson TV I was wanting to fix.... Pretty good size and would be perfect for a camera security system for my mother. (She got one of those 4 camera systems... ) ANyways.. Turn it on... It starts to come on then goes off. I replaced the "video board" (from ebay) ... but the same exact symptom occurs.... Could it be the power board? The cord itself? Or the switch that turns it on?
hi your videos are very helpful..the device starts and immediatelly stops working..the poewr supply gives bigger voltages than these the board shows...what i should check?
One of the fuses had gone on a 42" lg of mine. So I changed the fuse over and started her up and heard a big pop! After turning the power off and testing the fuse the one that was blown before is testing fine. In fact all the fuses seem to be. Also I am getting all the correct voltages when testing the vs and va.
Hi dear @ tampatec. Thanks for the video...I have a question How do you select or prioritize the components to be checked...since there are so many components....is there a thumb rule or we need to check all co.ponents..... Moreover how to check the latest components on The board ...bcoz latest components are so small that you can barely use a soldering iron
h there, i have a LG 50 PC 3D. i replaced the caps that were bulged (9 of them!!) tv powers up now, but Vs is only 176V and not the 192v. Va is ok at 60V, what could the problem be here? many thanks, love your vids, very helpful so far
Thank you for this great tutorial! I have a limited knowlege of electronic, but with the help of guys like you I usualy make it. I am reparing a computer psu. Two transistors are dead. They are labeled UTC UF460L 54 PCE1. I found a lot of UTC UF460L but none with the 54 PCE1 insciption. Should I care for the 54PCE1 or any UTC UF460L will work?Thank you for your time.
Thanks for the great service videos. I have an LG 42 inch plasma that is a head scratcher! It made a loud pop and then no picture or sound. I have replaced the Y-sus board, logic board, and all of the capacitors on the power supply. I also replaced the voltage IC and two diodes. The power supply tests ok. When I plug the tv in I get a normal red standby light. When I turn the tv on I get two normal “click-click” sounds and within 3 seconds I get one click and the standby light goes out. 5 seconds later the standby light comes back on. Any ideas? I’m stumped!!
Took me forever to find the standby.. On mine (Darfon brand) it was marked STB5V. Sure enough 0DC v. The fuse was easy to test, now hopefully i can test the other components accurately.
When you are "measuring out of circuit", it looks like you could be making contact between the part lead and the board by physically leaving the leg in the hole and pushing up your MM test lead upon it. So the leg could make contact or the test lead or both. Some desolder one leg and pull up to measure it.
I have a denon receiver that received some love from lightning. I believe it's the HDMI board, I want to check capacitors etc, but I have a older meter and I'm getting readings all over the board from the 35 different capacitors. I know they are rated differently but is there a sure fire way to tell if one is bad or good so that I can replace them?
Hey, what's up bro. Thanks for the video. But I have a question though. I thought we aren't suppose to touch those exposed lead, since is known to cause cancer?
@tempa tech Have you ever find a such situation in which we were checking components like diode, transistor, capasitor are innormal in circuit but then when u take them off circuit, it was normal. What did you do finding such situation like this? Tq in advance
Do you know about lcd picture frames? after a moisture issue in my apartment my digital picture frame crapped out, when I turn it on it keeps clicking from the speaker, and the lcd flashes, like its trying to turn on, but failing, been a lot of years since I had time to play with electronics, but there is discolouration in the case where the capacitor sits, and I seem to believe that a capacitor acts to boost power during higher demand start up, seems logical right? so you were testing the capacitor in diode mode on the mulitmeter?
Hi Paul, Nice Video. Paul I had Samsung Tv which I test the input voltage going to the inverter CM852 CONNECTION. I got 20.4Volts instead of 24v as mark on the board. I got no video but sound is working. Is this voltage does matter? thank you
Hey Tampatec, great videos. I have a 32" LG flat screen model # 32LX1D with no picture and the red power light is on. I checked the capacitors on circuit and none were blown. Does this mean I have a possible power supply issue? Thank you. John
I don't know if you are still active, but I have a vizio smart tv. I got it from my grandfather, and the IR sensor wasn't working, so I took it apart to find the issue, and when I did, I found that the IR sensor clip broke. So I fixed it, and powered the TV on to test it, I turned it off with the remote now, everything seems fine. Now, when I place the IR sensor back in it's spot, I test again to make sure before I close it up. Now the TV won't power on. Nothing looks blown, no dark spots, and all the cords and wires are plugged in all the way, any ideas?
+jake ounce I have 3 or 4 mutimeters, none of which test capacitance. I bought a cheap digital capacitance meter on ebay for about $15 (including shipping). It works fine for my needs.
I have a Tig welder power board that has a thermistor that overheats immediately, thermistor is good, do you think the problem most likely would be on the power board somewhere?
very good! But it is dangerous doing this job on TV's case. Some pieces of tin could introduce into the case and cause a short circuit! (Sorry my english) :-)
Nice Video DUDE !!! I just want to know that how to check DIODE and capacitors CORRECTLY....and this video is very HELPFULL or i can say FULLY helpfull
Hi Tampatec ! Awesome Video ! Just wondering ... Your in cicrcuit testing , it looks like you leave the leads still inside of the hole.( I know you removed the solder ) but maybe there are remains of solder ? Dont you think it may make contact with the sides so that the value may change ?(o) Thank you !
Help us Hit 300K subs and Grow Subscribe/Like for FREE Tech support- Please post "TV model" and "problem" and i'll reply with a common solution. Support this channel by getting a Capacitor kit for TV board repair- amzn.to/2gEH5Lt Thanks for the support! Let's bring back TV repair! Follow me on Instagram for giveaways and tech reviews instagram.com/tampatec/
Tampatec
Cheers for the video content! Sorry for chiming in, I would appreciate your thoughts. Have you heard about - Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (search on google)? It is a great one of a kind product for learning how to repair electronic items like a wizard minus the hard work. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my mate finally got great results with it.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else trying to find out
how repair computer
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my friend got excellent results with it.
Tampate
Doctor Stormyclick a puteaclick probes
I am 35 years as an electronics engineer, with massive fault finding experience. Sure a good multimeter (DMM) is the backbone of your test tools but my fault finding life changed the day I started using a V-I trace (curve trace) about 25 years ago. One reason it beats a DMM for resistive & V drop tests is it uses an AC drive source to test rather than DC as in a DMM. The first one I had was a home made unit from a magazine article which plugged into my scope but then I got a good a PC based instrument (Diagnosis Pinoint which does a lot of other funky stuff like boundary scan & ITC back driving) that displayed several ranges on the screen at the same time. The V-I trace lets you very quickly see the unusual without having to interpret numbers then you can use a good DMM to confirm it. Nowadays there are cheap V-I trace units. The advice about bulging elec caps is spot on. If they are not generating heat themselves, they have been subject to it. Never re-install a capacitor you removed to test...bin it & replace.
I like the way I have to crank up the volume to hear you talk, then the music comes on blasting so loud the next door neighbor can hear it at 2AM.
You like that?
@@mattfisher401 omg that's priceless 🤣😂🙌🙇♂️
@@franktrevino2218😂😂😂😂
💀💀💀💀💀
Nice Video. You provided a lot of good basic tips for testing some of the basic components that usually fail in just about everything. Most of the time, if a circuit instantly blows a fuse it's probably something made from Silicon like a Diode, Bridge Rectifier or a Transistor. If the fuse doesn't blow it's usually an Electrolytic Capacitor. You pretty much have to desolder and remove them from most boards to test them properly. If all of these guys are good look for an OPEN Resistor. Another good tip is Resistors do not short, they Open when they die. I also like that you mentioned the phrase "When in Doubt, Take it Out". That's the best way to test most components with a multimeter. If you can learn how to test the maybe 5-8 basic components with a multimeter you can quickly find the solution to most problems in electronics without a schematic. Good Job!
I noticed that when you prepare a component for testing, you so called take it out of circuit. Be aware that although this saves time, this method has some pitfalls.
For the viewers out there, the component should be physically removed from the pcb.
If you leave it in situ, the hole could be through plated & there will still be an electrical contact or another issue is that while desoldering it, a minute amount of solder could still be remaining ,hence still making contact with the pcb (though unlikely) it can happen in some situations.
Other techniques that can be used: is if it's a diode , resistor (axial) etc just unsolder one side and lift the desoldered leg clear. If it has 3 legs, unsolder 2 of them and bend the component sideways to clear the 2 legs for testing.
Cheers !
Hey, I just wanted to say that I can tell that you do this just because you like to help others. You seem like a good egg and I hope that success finds you and rewards you for your kindness if it hasn't already :)
are you a music DJ or not. stop the distracting music and stay relevant
Great video. It was nice to see you double check that diode that first appeared open. For years I worked with supposedly good technicians that didn't have the sense to do that. Then they would say that all kinds of parts were bad and the board should be replaced. When in reality, it was only 1 or 2 bad parts, or even none (bad or missing solder was a common problem).
At 3:00- you can't check a bridge like this. From a single terminal to the other three, two connections will read like diodes but the third connection will be reading two diodes in series. That's where the 0.9v is coming from, roughly 0.5v + 0.5v in series = 1 (0.9 actual reading in your case)
It's clever how you cut out the section of the between using the solder sucker to testing the components. I imagine because it's not a simple matter of hitting the lead once with a solder sucker to clear out the hole and it probably took a good deal of fiddling around to get it clean enough to test like you do. If it's not very clear of solder the lead is going to short to the sides.I'd be surprised if you were able to do it at all. It's easier to pull the part out and test it as in that case you don't have to get the hole perfectly clean.
Right Davey Hi And another thing is, some of rectifiers i get even done 0.3 and 0.25 and work perfectly this depends of the power of de diodes a rectifier of 2 Amps can give you 0.5 but a rectifier of 8 Amps can give you readings of 0.3 and even 0.2 in the diode scale mode. And a rectifier when goes bad is 80% some diode goes short and 20% they can goes open and thats it i never see any rectifier alter interior pn or np juncion in others values and working bad. Just my opinion.
i searched for this comment .. 😊i knew someone must have noticed
im assuming that the optocoupler or the voltage reference ( x431 ? or equivalent) is bad
@@protonx80 yess right he has experience why does he not know that??
Thanks for making this! Let's bring back repair and reduce throwaway culture. Thanks for helping us to do so.
Great video for someone starting out. I started out fixing old tube sets, nowdays you can find CRT tv's by the curb or as friends etc. not to throw them away, they are good to practice on.
I was able to fix my tv from what I learned watching your tutorials. What wattage is your soldering iron?
Thanks this is very helpful. I haven't soldered in years and have never repaired a TV. I own a TV that is famous for failed power supplies. I removed the PS and have noted the tops of most of the capacitors are puffed outwards. With help from your video I'm going to test and probably replace them. If that doesn't fix the TV then I'm only out a few bucks and got some practice testing and replacing components.
5:21 - the diode in that position will appear to read as a "short" because it's in parallel with the windings of that transformer.
You can see the traces coming from the transformer. ;)
He mentions that around 6:45
This is an excellent video, very informative. We'll be repairing some damaged power supplies this week in our semiconductors class. It's always good to watch and learn from a professional before attempting the work.
Thanks dude I didn't know about taking components out of circuits. Thanks.
Love your videos bro. You know why? Cause you speak clearly, directly and your videos are quick, to the point and helpful. RARE on YT these days.
joshua lutz thanks 👍
با سلام عیب یابی فارسی هم دارید
This was the best video of the many I looked at... Thank you. No one explains anything - you did very clearly.
Right on A Fluke 12 easiest meter ever to use!!!! I loved my Fluke 12!!
I have serval Flukes now but still one of my all time favorites was the fluke 12!!!
Thank you for all the information you provide, I was able to repair my 65 Vizio
You are awesome...unfort nobody repairs tvs nowadays....they are disposable
Fantastic. Just the right thing....to keep me going.
So what did the problem wind up being on the power board?
We are still looking, might have to give up on it.
Been looking through your postings and i want to express my thanks. I've become a bit rusty when it comes to my electronic skills (they've been neglected for the last 3-4 years or so) and your postings have helped brush off the cobwebs. Well made videos, good sound and picture quality...keep up the good work, mate!
Greetings from across the pond (the atlantic ocean) ;)
Ted
Enjoy your video and thanks for sharing. But if you don’t mind maybe can you use a less loud music? If i on the volume loud enough to hear your voice and when the music start to play, Everyone in my family will shout at me to lower the volume. Thank you so much for your time in sharing all your knowledge with us. Forgive me if you feel that I am rude. Thank you.
Thank you for this video, I really learnt a lot from it. I’m a beginner in this field of electronics. Thanks for helping out buddy.
Thanks.. tampa tec... I learn more new information ...
I like your Avometer ... where I can found same model..
Thanks ...ali..
what was the other tool you used in addition to the soldering iron to click out the components?
Sorry. New to this. When testing is the power on and/ or is it plugged in? BTW great informative video. Just bought a multimeter and only test batteries. I’d like to explore other things now like I have a old tv remote, PS3/4 motherboard,USB Cords and would like to learn how to use more settings on my meter. This video is great but I don’t know that if the thing in testing is powered up by battery or AC while testing and if I’ll get shocked. Sorry just asking
What kind of soldering iron are you using in this video? I am looking for a new Soldering iron or soldering station and yours looks like it works amazingly well. I have only owned 2 so far. One was a 20W Weller when in high school. And the current on is 30W off brand that was really cheap price wise. But worked ok until it started to melt the casing or handle. I am willing to spend a little more money if I can get something of great built quality and wanted to see what you recommend.
Just a small criticism ... You appeared to be doing the work on backside of the TV with the vents visible just a few inches away - I know You wouldn't usually work this way but it sets a bad example ... when I test simple 2 to 4 pin components I always pull out of ckt , this way I know its good & the solder joints are all good .. keep going with videos , they are great .. I wish they had UA-cam when I taught myself electronics starting at age 12 , strictly reading from books I took out of library , different world ( 1960's )
Right on time, I just bought two 65" Vizios black screen, hopping I get lucky, Cumpari! I'm in the (561)
black screen maybe inverter boards so use flashlight to check lcd screen if there is at least a dark image, shopjimmy.com has warranty boards.
That's one of the first things I did when I took it out of the box, LOL, I've watching you for a while now bro :)
***** cool thanks, sometimes i ask shopjimmy.com techs when i get stuck, but Tcon board controls picture and main board is the brains of the TV and power board powers all the tv boards on so i would start with power board first and check dc volts to video boards.
Bro….. You are awesome. I'm just getting started in learning this stuff and you are a godsend. Keep on being awesome sir!!
Rahiem Martin hg
It sounds like you're saying Mega Farads :)
On a different note, just removing solder from the legs doesn't necessarily guarantee that the component is out of circuit.
That's what I thought, too!
I usually pull one leg out ( the anode end ) and you can check for a short that way..
Bojan Kotur we weren't in front of the board,i've done it that way many times in the shop
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else trying to find out
how repair computer
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my friend got excellent results with it.
Bojan
So, what was the outcome of this video? 😊 I have a Finlux 22 inch TV with no standby and I want to rule out power board issues. After testing all of these points what would be the next option? Cheers! Btw - I dig your channel!
dude, great video! way better than anything else I've seen covering this topic. Thanks!
Thank you for your videos. I have a samsung tv that blinks once when plugging in the power cord, but is blank with no picture afterwords. Before this happend it was turning off randomly then rebooting itself after a few seconds. I know the common fix is bad capacitors, but I took the power supply board to my two local electronic stores and both agreed that none of the capacitors looked blown or oozing out fluid. I replaced a good amount of them today and it is still not working. Do you have any idea what the issue might be? Thanks!
share this video to anyone it may interest and like the vid if it was informative, thanks for your support.
fluke multimeter ..amzn.to/1I6yRPJ
20 dollar good auto range meter ..amzn.to/1T6AAec
ISO-tip rechargeable soldering iron- amzn.to/1Z4CygA
Butane soldering iron- amzn.to/1S3acEx
Weller electric soldering station- amzn.to/1O9Ui5k
+Tampatec Thanks for the vid. I am trying to repair my Samsung LCD power supply. It does not switch on and standby light remain off.
I have changed the main 6 capacitors even though they did not seem blown, to no avail. I have noted that whilst the PSU is being supplied with power, it is not converting to DC properly. The the connector which connects to PSU to the TCON board has no power on any pin. Even the PSU fuse- only 4v are passing through it and it is a 250v fuse (europe voltage).
The bridge rectifier is good. Input AC 220 and output DC over 300V. I assume this is good or shall I still test it out of the circuit?
Where would you suspect this is coming from? The transformer or something else? Also there is a white resistor 5W R12K which is slightly deformed on top (not smooth)... or is this normal?
Thanks again.
+sciclunam check bridge rectifier for dc volts and check voltage regulator for dc volts for standby volts.
+Tampatec Thanks for the quick reply. The bridge rectifier is good. With the power on Input AC 220 and output DC over 300V. I assume this is good or shall I still test it out of the circuit? Re Voltage Rugulator... should there be only one as I am seeing 6 or more components which look like it all screwed to heat sinks. How can I recognise it?
+sciclunam .
+sciclunam .
Since you left us hanging...which part was bad?
That's a great video.... but in the the very end when he was testing the capacitor I thought he would say the capicitor was the problem afterwards... but then the video just came to the end. D:
Ted Mieske He doesn't know. He was just randomly testing easily tested parts. Unless the problem just happened to be one of these parts this process won't find the problem.
The basic assumption that the board is bad because the standby power is low is incorrect as a short or fault on another board can load down the voltage and cause the same symptoms.
it was a bad cap near heatsink
BRO,, you are a very smart man ,, I GOT MAD RESPECT FOR YOUR TALENTS,, I could never do this kinda stuff but now I know what some of this stuff looks like when I see it . Thanks God we have people like you in the TV business. AWESOME VIDEO BRO !!!!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO ! I WOULD LOVE TO SEE MORE COOL HOME APPLIANCES, GAMING CONSOLES, COMPUTERS, THANK YOU FOR DIAGNOSTIC SKILLS !
Congradulation for video, When you mention 120Vdc at power input it's 120 vac (alternating current) When you are testing any component that you desolder the terminals and measure, this is not out of circuit because there could be a extremely thin solder touching the circuit and will give you a faulty reading.
Awesome video op. I do have a question what kind or iron solder is good to use?Are those $5 iron solder good enough or should I buy a better one and where to get that kind of multimeter
Wow what kind of soldering iron you are using? I'm looking to buy a new one becuase I have one of 60 watts and when I use it I feel like if I'm using a 10 watts soldering iron drives me crazy -.-. BTW nice video thanks to you I have learned a lot and when I have doubts I always use your video as reference. Keep up the good work.
First off great vids man, ive got a lg plasma where the stand by stays on push the power no response no relay clicking, stand by is 5.3, all caps seem good, sny ideas, just need a place to start tia
thx alot brother keep doing like these stuff ... actually am power engineerin but am too bad practically only good doing mathmitical exams lol its soo usefull
Thanks Tampatec, you explain in easy to follow instructions ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge ! The little schematics are fantastic and explains with technical details ! Wonderful mate ...!
Hi, thanks for the video, i am learning something here. I am just starting to learn on repairing electronic device. Just asking if you could help me out.. from my tiny information, a capacitor is blocking dc current. If the capacitor is lead, then the dc current could pass thru capacitor? Is that right? And By using the multimeter on dc current option, can i get a reading of dc with each probe on each capacitor leg? Thanks again!
very good vid. informative & additional written comments are excellent. will check out other vids
Heres a suggestion for future ideas; you should show the audience how to troubleshoot circuitry on these modern electric scooters
Is it possible to unsolder only one leg of a component and then check the reading with a VOM? I enjoy your video clips and watch all of them. Thanks for all the efforts you expend in making them.
HI wonderful video, can you do a video on how to repair atx power supply, how to test elements, and witch are the elements that fail, i want to learn on how to repair any power supply, thanks.
would be a great help friend go a new atx power supply put a avg wire in cpu slot by mistake where/what would it have popped thanks
www.electronicrepairguide.com/Power-supply.html
start by reading output volts like 5dc volts ect.. I did a video on my repair playlist. for more info check out google helpouts, use code paul51p for free video google helpout. search tv pc repair.
Hi. Thanks for sharing. By the way I think this is the most wanted video at the moment coz' of advanced in electronic parts: how to check (if good or bad) SMT or SMD: capacitors (how does one know the value on SMD capacitors), resistors, transistor and other SMD or SMT components, along with how to read their value on the surface of say an SMD capacitor. Could they be seen if and SMD capacitor or resistor is bad just by looking at it like with blown capacitors? Thank you in advance. God bless, Rev. 21:4
Hey nice vid...but one thing what about newer LCD TV's where they use a power brick and the power board is built in...how are you testing smd bridge rectifiers diodes and capacitors
I wish there was youtube when I attempted to make a living repairing AV gear. I used to sometimes used a lazy trick of cutting one end of the component I was testing, to do a out of circuit measurement. Then resolder the re-joined leg of the component on top of the board, if it was ok. I am not proud of it.
But I guess you probably know about that one. ;)
btw there used to be a capacitor tester that was supposed to be able to test cap,s in circuit as it used a low voltage I think. Also ESR reading. Am I right?
Anyhow. Keep up the great work.
Cheers
Have you worked on Power electronics like VFD and UPS. I am facing problems with AEG UPS. Protect 3 10KVA model. I wanted to know how to get the Circuit diagram for trouble shooting, Your Video was helpful Thanks for sharing.
Hey Tampatec, where did you get your knowledge on electronic repair and smartphone repair etc ? College / Trade or self-taught ?
Hey! What is that tool you used to cut the capacitor from the circuit? Thanks for your video!
Sorry, ***** but checking parts that are soldered in circuit is a bit dummy because all near parts can have influence on the part that you're testing and you get false results. Only simple situations can be checked for example short circuit inside a part, but checking other values don't make sense. Try to check a resistor for it's value while it's in parallel to other one. Or capacitor. You get false result. And the examples go on.
But still it's very nice that you put you videos online.
Best regards!
Thanks for the reply mate appreciate it and for the info.
Odd thing is this short only just started happening after I done a capkit :S
It's a Kortek KTN 20
Great presentation! I took a power board to follow your steps and came across 3 look like transistors, but upon researching found that they are N Channel Power Mosfets. Can you explain what they are and are they similar to a transistor. I know mosfets I have dealt with (8 leg)have a source, gate and a drain . How do you test these? I get .455 on one side and OL on the other side. The part number is K3561 AND K3683. Thanks for the advice and great videos................Phil
do you repair guitar amps .i keep getting trouble with a fender hot rod deluxe,great tuition vids by the way thanks for taking the time.
Great vids, T-tech. Way to give back to the community.
Tampatec, Very informative video. I'm in my training wheels mode when it comes to component level troubleshooting. What brand solder sucker was that? I didn't see it on the list. My next question was I saw you have a butane soldering gun. In what instances would you use that over a electric 40 watt pencil. I suspect there must be times when instant very high heat is needed? I was reading about installing optical lasers or readers and you have to reach a certain temp on them earlier when you install them and how sensitive they are to static, ie. unplug soldering gun when up to temp. I did some work at a hospital and picked up 2 identical Samsung 50-55" flat screens for free. Haven't powered them up yet but I'm hoping they have a easy to fix power supply issue as they were marked 'Dead no power"and hoping to get one of the 2 working using the second for parts if needed. Free is a good price to start from. I know it is very important to drain the capacitors in a TV after you power down or at least it was in older TV's. Do you have a video on how to do that? I know you need to put them to ground. I'm in the process of learning how to restore old radios which is certainly a lot easier in terms of component size and simplicity. And to clarify the 0.3 to 0.7 reading on the diode one way is a resistance reading so that is Ohms?Thanks and looking forward to your other vids, Doug
watched your power supply diagnosis, interesting. how about colour supply?
Do you test control boards for customers, or only your own? I have a thermador freezer board I would like to test, but it appears to be above my skills. I am in the Tampa area.
I must agree, great video but you leave us hanging, easy edit fix, no worries. I have searched your other videos for a fix for my Panasonic Viera 50" Plasma ( TC-50PX14 ). The Red light comes on solid, does not Blink and then shuts off after 4-6 seconds ( no picture, no sound ) it just shuts off. I will test the Power Supply Board first, but Is this something you have ever heard of or come across? I thank you. Geo
Thanks for the testing tutorial.
thank you sir too much. share some more video ........i like your video
You sure do make desoldering look easy! Great video! :thumbs up:
I got an Emerson TV I was wanting to fix....
Pretty good size and would be perfect for a camera security system for my mother.
(She got one of those 4 camera systems... )
ANyways..
Turn it on...
It starts to come on then goes off.
I replaced the "video board" (from ebay) ... but the same exact symptom occurs....
Could it be the power board? The cord itself?
Or the switch that turns it on?
hi your videos are very helpful..the device starts and immediatelly stops working..the poewr supply gives bigger voltages than these the board shows...what i should check?
One of the fuses had gone on a 42" lg of mine.
So I changed the fuse over and started her up and heard a big pop! After turning the power off and testing the fuse the one that was blown before is testing fine. In fact all the fuses seem to be. Also I am getting all the correct voltages when testing the vs and va.
Hey man, I love your channel. Do you live in Tampa FL by any chance?
Hi dear @ tampatec. Thanks for the video...I have a question
How do you select or prioritize the components to be checked...since there are so many components....is there a thumb rule or we need to check all co.ponents.....
Moreover how to check the latest components on The board ...bcoz latest components are so small that you can barely use a soldering iron
thanks for sharing your skills here, a question, i get 10 red led blink code on viera plasma, what's that 10 pulse refers to on those tvs?
h there, i have a LG 50 PC 3D. i replaced the caps that were bulged (9 of them!!)
tv powers up now, but Vs is only 176V and not the 192v. Va is ok at 60V, what could the problem be here? many thanks, love your vids, very helpful so far
+Tampatec What soldering gun would you recommend? Or what should someone look for when selecting a more expensive soldering gun? I'm a beginner.
Thank you for this great tutorial! I have a limited knowlege of electronic, but with the help of guys like you I usualy make it. I am reparing a computer psu. Two transistors are dead. They are labeled UTC UF460L 54 PCE1. I found a lot of UTC UF460L but none with the 54 PCE1 insciption. Should I care for the 54PCE1 or any UTC UF460L will work?Thank you for your time.
Thanks for the great service videos. I have an LG 42 inch
plasma that is a head scratcher!
It made a loud pop and then no picture or sound. I have
replaced the Y-sus board, logic board, and all of the capacitors on the power
supply. I also replaced the voltage IC and two diodes. The power supply tests
ok.
When I plug the tv in I get a normal red standby light. When
I turn the tv on I get two normal “click-click” sounds and within 3 seconds I
get one click and the standby light goes out.
5 seconds later the standby light comes back on.
Any ideas? I’m
stumped!!
Took me forever to find the standby.. On mine (Darfon brand) it was marked STB5V. Sure enough 0DC v.
The fuse was easy to test, now hopefully i can test the other components accurately.
thank you for explained, but can you till me please which symbol you choose on multimiter for to test capacitor.
If you were to test it when it was live would you still get an 0L?
When you are "measuring out of circuit", it looks like you could be making contact between the part lead and the board by physically leaving the leg in the hole and pushing up your MM test lead upon it. So the leg could make contact or the test lead or both. Some desolder one leg and pull up to measure it.
No me
I have a denon receiver that received some love from lightning. I believe it's the HDMI board, I want to check capacitors etc, but I have a older meter and I'm getting readings all over the board from the 35 different capacitors. I know they are rated differently but is there a sure fire way to tell if one is bad or good so that I can replace them?
Hey, what's up bro. Thanks for the video. But I have a question though. I thought we aren't suppose to touch those exposed lead, since is known to cause cancer?
@tempa tech Have you ever find a such situation in which we were checking components like diode, transistor, capasitor are innormal in circuit but then when u take them off circuit, it was normal. What did you do finding such situation like this? Tq in advance
Do you know about lcd picture frames? after a moisture issue in my apartment my digital picture frame crapped out, when I turn it on it keeps clicking from the speaker, and the lcd flashes, like its trying to turn on, but failing, been a lot of years since I had time to play with electronics, but there is discolouration in the case where the capacitor sits, and I seem to believe that a capacitor acts to boost power during higher demand start up, seems logical right? so you were testing the capacitor in diode mode on the mulitmeter?
Hi Paul,
Nice Video. Paul I had Samsung Tv which I test the input voltage going to the inverter CM852 CONNECTION. I got 20.4Volts instead of 24v as mark on the board. I got no video but sound is working. Is this voltage does matter? thank you
Hey Tampatec, great videos. I have a 32" LG flat screen model # 32LX1D with no picture and the red power light is on. I checked the capacitors on circuit and none were blown. Does this mean
I have a possible power supply issue? Thank you. John
Thanks for taking the time for the videos fella
after reading these comments i wonder if anyone has repaired anything based on info presented here just--------very deep subject ..
I don't know if you are still active, but I have a vizio smart tv. I got it from my grandfather, and the IR sensor wasn't working, so I took it apart to find the issue, and when I did, I found that the IR sensor clip broke. So I fixed it, and powered the TV on to test it, I turned it off with the remote now, everything seems fine. Now, when I place the IR sensor back in it's spot, I test again to make sure before I close it up. Now the TV won't power on. Nothing looks blown, no dark spots, and all the cords and wires are plugged in all the way, any ideas?
Thanks for your video- very helpful!! I have a cheap digital multimeter, and is it possible to read capacitors with it?
+jake ounce I have 3 or 4 mutimeters, none of which test capacitance. I bought a cheap digital capacitance meter on ebay for about $15 (including shipping). It works fine for my needs.
I have a Tig welder power board that has a thermistor that overheats immediately, thermistor is good, do you think the problem most likely would be on the power board somewhere?
The poor sound quality when you're talking vs the music at much higher volume made this hard to watch.
do you have any videos on how to troubleshoot components on a mainboard for a tv?
very good! But it is dangerous doing this job on TV's case. Some pieces of tin could introduce into the case and cause a short circuit! (Sorry my english) :-)
Any way you can redo this video? The audio is all over the place. Maybe compress your voice stream so that it matches the way to loud music.
Nice Video DUDE !!!
I just want to know that how to check DIODE and capacitors CORRECTLY....and this video is very HELPFULL or i can say FULLY helpfull
Hi Tampatec ! Awesome Video ! Just wondering ... Your in cicrcuit testing , it looks like you leave the leads still inside of the hole.( I know you removed the solder ) but maybe there are remains of solder ? Dont you think it may make contact with the sides so that the value may change ?(o) Thank you !