Had one of these, the 19 inch variant, blow up on me just a couple weeks back. Suddenly was looking really wavy and while I was turning some pots to try and settle down the image the screen suddenly went black. When I tried to turn up the brightness… BOOM! Sparks flew and I almost pooped in my pants. I pulled it and could not see any physical damage but it was done, and went in a dumpster. 2 years of service, it was okay.
@10:10 Those caps should be OK. Seen plenty of those before and they are not bad. G-Luxon aka Jamicon Teapo is a Taiwan manufacturer... I think they crop up in Panasonic equipment... won't last forever but definitely not worth replacing immediately.
The Luxon capacitors in this chassis are the same brand that are used in most Home Appliances including GE and Frigidaire refrigerators and probably many others 👍
Love you channel concept. I feel the same way . started taking TVs apart to rgb mod gem then took on a EZ20, then 4900. About 5 monitors later here I am working g on a 7100 today, a sharp image this weekend, a 2001n on vacation, ha. Love it!!
I have gotten these as cheap as 55 on ebay. they are about 100 shipped now. be aware sometimes the chassis box will have some parts rolling around in it.
Great review, have seen one before driving a candy cab and the daugauss was a bit of an issue with the rainbow colours i was getting after moving the cabinet. It did look fine on it. However will be interesting to see side by side the differences between the 19 and 25.
@17:50 crisp! OK now I want one. Please can you post a link for where you got it or a good search term for aliexpress etc. (I have a 19" monitor with an unobtainium flyback that this might be a good solution for)
I got it here… www.ebay.com/itm/264517978729?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190917065201%26meid%3D5163c843d4764bd0b637630d92cf264e%26pid%3D100935%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D384399830645%26itm%3D264517978729%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWebCpr08MlcGreedyV3&_trksid=p2332490.c100935.m2460&amdata=cksum%3A2645179787295163c843d4764bd0b637630d92cf264e%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAACELnu%252BGl7qtQd2R18nCXW2eEKkAO%252FUiG2Qc0L%252BYR2LagYX5TJrxs5Mpz1U9J%252BDZ9OoPBdCa%252BSsvSrSA8t5wWqm%252Bt1zRclmD9i3USDOmBgg6PZpMpIlVQXB1GojJoZeMkeWq4Ur8%252BkaA1P24KI%252FPXCodDfy6kukGqNqCUdtYFRW9hun3tzUT8tEWvc%252BOT7I2yFyqapnAqHJfKoAYZJMeyYZ2vOSgbsXND%252FAw8o%252BqAoJcP7lt%252FxgHvJCDQiLhCmbb2EqQ8rT7z0aYgQOJTR%252F2DIp0Hmd7VYjxpjrUGN7jWSlwM861I980mlMv9aIPo25SepmZk1pxTlJT7HGdjFb7RlUb4sfD3wSzXhM9N9kuxfUuqVaZS61vJJx8oEgMkVbjYLN8ob41%252BqECXYDttqejZepxSPQz7uPqiZix2VvsND%252BDU%252BiR%252FehcHxVQY2dBcpcW4WdoACy3os5aQfVmXsl%252FqfiS%252BNtbT37e%252BdWUTJOZgWe%252FZJjanjpXEsCXkXG%252Bnoq4o4z3UWXYIJbQmo1YGSyvoQ5wevSHSg%252FKIVh3JruXg1o4SmCIOy%252BtGuDTwIlOG%252BfKfug%252FOK9DplD3nGEOxzuPSqKAPksmdjDsys6Ca%252BRWOkgcXUlG2m1rhB2uU9aO3%252Bd4GmSmpYm%252FVFPUJmV%252B1lcFB37vg8TlvP4JkjenRqLKe4WRti2MZF4HNRrNBCGWIFunJ0nA%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490
Many thanks for this review, Mike. Much better image quality than I thought. Would really love to see you review the 19" chassis too when it arrives. Would you happen to know what models of monitors the 19" universal chassis you have ordered is compatible with? One of the universal 14" - 22" Wei-Ya chassis' I found had the yoke values at 56 Ohms for vertical and 2 Ohms for horizontal, so would be good to see if the one you've ordered will support K7000's.
Just a note- I bought one and the wiring is R-B-G-Y and the other being R-G-BLU-BLK-W so perhaps they fixed that issue now. edit- also want to note my chassis has HL branding, but the rear sticker on the metal is "shide" branding. My pots on the front are also directly on the board and not in the black plastic like yours is. my B+ resistor is also sideways and only has a small 250v 2a fuse as opposed to your two. So kinda similiar but also different. tho you should expect it to be slightly different when you buy from china lmao
Great review, thanks, I have a probably silly question... At 17:35 you adjust the focus of the image, but you don't specify which one of the controls you're using to do that... You list all the controls at the beginning of the "hands on" part, but it seems to me no one of what you mention is focus...
You’re welcome. On the flyback transformer, the top knob is the focus adjustment and the bottom knob is the main “screen” brightness. I’m adjusting the top knob.
Hi Mike. Thanks for your great video. I have succesfully replaced a wei ya chassis with one of those, but I have failed replacing the Time Crisis 2 chassis, We did not meassure the yoke until after the universal chassis died, at the joke the vertical has 11ohms and Horizontal 2.2omhs so the horizontal is above the 1.3ohms label mark and probably the cause of dead, do you have any suggestion? The issue with the original chassis is that the image is too wide and pot is not doing anything, will have to check the width cap as I saw in your other video. Thanks !
I have a question unrelated to video but I’m trying to identify this really small chassis , it’s small , has that backwards RUgsep2112🔺 MC-3 Also has p/nIII-824A , the contrast and brightness are big white circular knobs and also has a video input that’s one black female type input, like the original Nintendo.6 pin neck and the suction cup is size of 50 cent piece, thanks
Thanks for all your work and videos Mike, I have learnt a lot from watching them. I have had a Hantarex Polo 28 chassis fail and was wondering if this would work with it? its the 15Khz model out of my dual time crisis 2 arcade cab!
Mike could you possibly do a show on isolation transformers? If one was to build a cabinent and have a transformer how do you know the input vs the output? Would be cool sir
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair heck yeah i have lots of isolation transformers and im to afraid to wire them up and burn something up!!! 4 wires come out and i have no idea what ones are in or out. Id like to build some cabs with crts that is an inportant part.
Have you ever troubleshot a 11 year old Yatta 988 board with unresponsive Horiz Width and Pincushion POTs. Board physically clean and unremarkable . Severe Pincushion. Hoz coil is non-adjustable.
Hi Mike. I have the chance to buy just a Hantarex Polo tube on its own, no chassis. Am I right in understanding I could buy one of these and get it up and running? Something that concerns me is I am in UK and we operate on 240v, all of the universal chassis I've seen seem to be 110v.
Olá Bom dia. Eu comprei um monitor universal 29 gual ao seu no Aliexpress, mas as cores não são boas, não consigo um ajuste decente. Por favor você poderia fazer um pequeno tutorial ensinando como ajustar as cores desse chassi universal?
Thanks for this, and all of your videos! I've had a couple of these that I just could not get working proper, they both had the same issue where the colors and contrast change depending on what color is strongest on the screen, as if the guns on the tube are struggling to keep up with each other, so white will go red when there;s too much blue on screen etc. They did this with all three tubes I tested (hantarex MTC, polo, K7000, all 19"). The tubes work fine with other chassis so I assume it's these universal ones I've had bad luck with, do you have any ideas what would cause that behavior?
You’re welcome! That’s very odd. Was it this same model of chassis? Could be the caps but traditionally caps don’t affect color but they can affect brightness. This is why I mentioned replacing them. Off hand, I really wouldn’t be able to say.
Repairing the original is always the better option because the original is a better design and guaranteed to last longer. These are just an alternative for people who don’t have the ability to fix the original and just want to get their monitor working.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Thanks, I always try to fix the chassis but sometimes it takes a while vs just a $100 part. My goal is always to catch and release back to the wild rehabilitated.
Curious, this chassis can work with k7000 as well as a polo ? In my experience the yoke readings are very different for those, this chassis has no issue with this? I have a perfect polo tube on the shelf with no chassis, would like to give this a try
They only work on standard res yokes and the ohms need to be around 2 for the horizontal and 10 for the vertical. If your yoke doesn't meet those requirements, it's not going to work. And you'd need the 19" version.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair thank you i also didnt connect mine. Fired up. And yes it absolutely needs to be connected with a transformer in the machine thank you for that tip.
Slightly unusual question. I have a k7500 medium res monitor which I would like to convert/use as standard resolution. Would this work? Also are there other dual/tri sync chassis that will work with a k7500?
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair One more question. Will a chassis for a 20” monitor work with a 25” tube? Sorry for the basic questions but I’m a novice. I had a makvision 25” trisync chassis blow out on me and the tube is in excellent shape. Been pulling my hair out trying to find a replacement chassis.
No problem. Technically yes, but the image will be too small on the screen and you'd have to change a handful of components to compensate. It's not worth the effort. Unfortunately, the Makvsions are notorious for being junk and the only replacement would be another digital, tri-res chassis. If it's a 24.8" Makvision, your only option would be another 24.8" tri-res Makvision chassis. If it's a 27" Makvision (as long as it's tri-res and not VGA only), you can use a D9200, D9400, or Neotec 500DX to the best of my knowledge since those are tri-res 27" chassis.'
@ It’s a 24.8” monitor 🤦🏻♂️. I tried the unico 26” lcd and it was awful. Even with a CGA to VGA adapter the contrast was unbearable and the pixels were all stretched.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Saw a guy saying there's a specific board, but that he doesn't remember its name and it's a rare find. At least there's something out there.
I had one of these chassis and yea they are dark, if you have a tired tube then your wasting you time, i had mine on a fairly new tube but still to dark, i had it on there for about month until the flyback smoked it self silly and decided to turn it self into a bonfire, so now its in a box of junk and put the wg back in, these chassis are cheap but its hit and miss with reliability, the lack of a contrast and proper brightness pots is a bit anoying its best to stick with a well known brand, i would never trust one of these again my one nearly totalled my bigblue cab, when those chinese flybacks go they go in style.
4:51 Y means Luma Signal, this is the separated luminance information, so that must be the brightness pot.
Wow! I'd love to hear a follow up, see how these have held up for you.
Had one of these, the 19 inch variant, blow up on me just a couple weeks back. Suddenly was looking really wavy and while I was turning some pots to try and settle down the image the screen suddenly went black. When I tried to turn up the brightness… BOOM! Sparks flew and I almost pooped in my pants. I pulled it and could not see any physical damage but it was done, and went in a dumpster. 2 years of service, it was okay.
@10:10 Those caps should be OK. Seen plenty of those before and they are not bad. G-Luxon aka Jamicon Teapo is a Taiwan manufacturer... I think they crop up in Panasonic equipment... won't last forever but definitely not worth replacing immediately.
The Luxon capacitors in this chassis are the same brand that are used in most Home Appliances including GE and Frigidaire refrigerators and probably many others 👍
Love you channel concept. I feel the same way . started taking TVs apart to rgb mod gem then took on a EZ20, then 4900. About 5 monitors later here I am working g on a 7100 today, a sharp image this weekend, a 2001n on vacation, ha. Love it!!
I have gotten these as cheap as 55 on ebay. they are about 100 shipped now. be aware sometimes the chassis box will have some parts rolling around in it.
Great review. Glad it worked well for you!
Looks fantastic, I've been looking for a chassis for a 29 inch sanwa tube but couldn't find any that said they were compatible with 29 inch tubes.
Great review, have seen one before driving a candy cab and the daugauss was a bit of an issue with the rainbow colours i was getting after moving the cabinet. It did look fine on it. However will be interesting to see side by side the differences between the 19 and 25.
@17:50 crisp! OK now I want one. Please can you post a link for where you got it or a good search term for aliexpress etc. (I have a 19" monitor with an unobtainium flyback that this might be a good solution for)
I got it here…
www.ebay.com/itm/264517978729?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190917065201%26meid%3D5163c843d4764bd0b637630d92cf264e%26pid%3D100935%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D384399830645%26itm%3D264517978729%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWebCpr08MlcGreedyV3&_trksid=p2332490.c100935.m2460&amdata=cksum%3A2645179787295163c843d4764bd0b637630d92cf264e%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAACELnu%252BGl7qtQd2R18nCXW2eEKkAO%252FUiG2Qc0L%252BYR2LagYX5TJrxs5Mpz1U9J%252BDZ9OoPBdCa%252BSsvSrSA8t5wWqm%252Bt1zRclmD9i3USDOmBgg6PZpMpIlVQXB1GojJoZeMkeWq4Ur8%252BkaA1P24KI%252FPXCodDfy6kukGqNqCUdtYFRW9hun3tzUT8tEWvc%252BOT7I2yFyqapnAqHJfKoAYZJMeyYZ2vOSgbsXND%252FAw8o%252BqAoJcP7lt%252FxgHvJCDQiLhCmbb2EqQ8rT7z0aYgQOJTR%252F2DIp0Hmd7VYjxpjrUGN7jWSlwM861I980mlMv9aIPo25SepmZk1pxTlJT7HGdjFb7RlUb4sfD3wSzXhM9N9kuxfUuqVaZS61vJJx8oEgMkVbjYLN8ob41%252BqECXYDttqejZepxSPQz7uPqiZix2VvsND%252BDU%252BiR%252FehcHxVQY2dBcpcW4WdoACy3os5aQfVmXsl%252FqfiS%252BNtbT37e%252BdWUTJOZgWe%252FZJjanjpXEsCXkXG%252Bnoq4o4z3UWXYIJbQmo1YGSyvoQ5wevSHSg%252FKIVh3JruXg1o4SmCIOy%252BtGuDTwIlOG%252BfKfug%252FOK9DplD3nGEOxzuPSqKAPksmdjDsys6Ca%252BRWOkgcXUlG2m1rhB2uU9aO3%252Bd4GmSmpYm%252FVFPUJmV%252B1lcFB37vg8TlvP4JkjenRqLKe4WRti2MZF4HNRrNBCGWIFunJ0nA%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490
Flippin awesome review sir.
Many thanks for this review, Mike. Much better image quality than I thought. Would really love to see you review the 19" chassis too when it arrives.
Would you happen to know what models of monitors the 19" universal chassis you have ordered is compatible with? One of the universal 14" - 22" Wei-Ya chassis' I found had the yoke values at 56 Ohms for vertical and 2 Ohms for horizontal, so would be good to see if the one you've ordered will support K7000's.
My pleasure. 56 ohms would be for K4900 or G07. 10 ohms would be for K7000. I ordered one. Waiting for it to ship. It was out of stock.
I have never tried the 19 inch version. I think I tried buying them and the 25 inch ones arrived instead.
Just a note- I bought one and the wiring is R-B-G-Y and the other being R-G-BLU-BLK-W so perhaps they fixed that issue now.
edit- also want to note my chassis has HL branding, but the rear sticker on the metal is "shide" branding. My pots on the front are also directly on the board and not in the black plastic like yours is. my B+ resistor is also sideways and only has a small 250v 2a fuse as opposed to your two. So kinda similiar but also different. tho you should expect it to be slightly different when you buy from china lmao
Great review, thanks, I have a probably silly question... At 17:35 you adjust the focus of the image, but you don't specify which one of the controls you're using to do that... You list all the controls at the beginning of the "hands on" part, but it seems to me no one of what you mention is focus...
You’re welcome. On the flyback transformer, the top knob is the focus adjustment and the bottom knob is the main “screen” brightness. I’m adjusting the top knob.
Nice! Do you know if it also works with 24K and 31K signals? BTW you can buy the chassis from Taobao directly, it only costs you 18 bucks.
Hi Mike. Thanks for your great video. I have succesfully replaced a wei ya chassis with one of those, but I have failed replacing the Time Crisis 2 chassis, We did not meassure the yoke until after the universal chassis died, at the joke the vertical has 11ohms and Horizontal 2.2omhs so the horizontal is above the 1.3ohms label mark and probably the cause of dead, do you have any suggestion? The issue with the original chassis is that the image is too wide and pot is not doing anything, will have to check the width cap as I saw in your other video. Thanks !
I have a question unrelated to video but I’m trying to identify this really small chassis , it’s small , has that backwards RUgsep2112🔺 MC-3
Also has p/nIII-824A , the contrast and brightness are big white circular knobs and also has a video input that’s one black female type input, like the original Nintendo.6 pin neck and the suction cup is size of 50 cent piece, thanks
Thanks for all your work and videos Mike, I have learnt a lot from watching them. I have had a Hantarex Polo 28 chassis fail and was wondering if this would work with it? its the 15Khz model out of my dual time crisis 2 arcade cab!
It should!
How I input video signals ?
Can I input video signal from DVD player?
Mike could you possibly do a show on isolation transformers? If one was to build a cabinent and have a transformer how do you know the input vs the output? Would be cool sir
Sure.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair heck yeah i have lots of isolation transformers and im to afraid to wire them up and burn something up!!! 4 wires come out and i have no idea what ones are in or out. Id like to build some cabs with crts that is an inportant part.
Very informative, Thank you!
Do you highly recommend these universal chassis? I believe their easier to get a hold of.
Great video, thanks for the detailed review. Is your polo tube a Philips A66EAKxxxx?
I'll be damned! I think I'll order a few of these to keep on hand to keep games operational if I need to work on the original chassis.
This might be a stupid question but could you use this to turn a crt tv into a arcade monitor?
If the yoke has the correct values…yup.
thanks for the review.
Have you ever troubleshot a 11 year old Yatta 988 board with unresponsive Horiz Width and Pincushion POTs. Board physically clean and unremarkable . Severe Pincushion. Hoz coil is non-adjustable.
Do you know if is possibly to connect a rgb pi with scart to those chasis?
Hi Mike. I have the chance to buy just a Hantarex Polo tube on its own, no chassis. Am I right in understanding I could buy one of these and get it up and running? Something that concerns me is I am in UK and we operate on 240v, all of the universal chassis I've seen seem to be 110v.
Yup! You’d simply need to use a step down transformer though. You also must use an isolation transformer too.
Olá Bom dia. Eu comprei um monitor universal 29 gual ao seu no Aliexpress, mas as cores não são boas, não consigo um ajuste decente. Por favor você poderia fazer um pequeno tutorial ensinando como ajustar as cores desse chassi universal?
Thanks for that test.
Is there anything similar for the 27" Toshiba A68KJU96X tubes from Sega driving cabs???
Unfortunately, no. Only standard res games.
Thanks for this, and all of your videos! I've had a couple of these that I just could not get working proper, they both had the same issue where the colors and contrast change depending on what color is strongest on the screen, as if the guns on the tube are struggling to keep up with each other, so white will go red when there;s too much blue on screen etc. They did this with all three tubes I tested (hantarex MTC, polo, K7000, all 19"). The tubes work fine with other chassis so I assume it's these universal ones I've had bad luck with, do you have any ideas what would cause that behavior?
You’re welcome! That’s very odd. Was it this same model of chassis? Could be the caps but traditionally caps don’t affect color but they can affect brightness. This is why I mentioned replacing them. Off hand, I really wouldn’t be able to say.
great review
Thanks.
I quite like that. Do you have a link to a schematic?
Where to buy?
Why not show us how you hooked up the whole thing? You did not show us how to hook up the transformer and the power supply.
So would you recommend these vs fixing the original chassis? Any pros or cons for each option?
Repairing the original is always the better option because the original is a better design and guaranteed to last longer. These are just an alternative for people who don’t have the ability to fix the original and just want to get their monitor working.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Thanks, I always try to fix the chassis but sometimes it takes a while vs just a $100 part. My goal is always to catch and release back to the wild rehabilitated.
Gotchya
Curious, this chassis can work with k7000 as well as a polo ? In my experience the yoke readings are very different for those, this chassis has no issue with this? I have a perfect polo tube on the shelf with no chassis, would like to give this a try
Yup! The K7000 and the Polo are directly compatible with each other.
Wow, ok. My measurements on my polo are 1.7 and 5.7, I seem to remember my k7000s being much different (maybe 1.5 and 10 ish?)
UPDATE ?!?!?
I would see these on aliexpress and wonder if they were any good. I've got a 15" PC CRT I'd like to try one on.
They only work on standard res yokes and the ohms need to be around 2 for the horizontal and 10 for the vertical. If your yoke doesn't meet those requirements, it's not going to work. And you'd need the 19" version.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair That's too bad then but thanks for telling me!
What did you do about the degauss connection does that conect anywhere?? I saw you had something connected to it was it ground ??
There is no degauss circuit on this chassis. I just left the coil disconnected.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair thank you i also didnt connect mine. Fired up. And yes it absolutely needs to be connected with a transformer in the machine thank you for that tip.
is it still running?
Slightly unusual question. I have a k7500 medium res monitor which I would like to convert/use as standard resolution. Would this work? Also are there other dual/tri sync chassis that will work with a k7500?
You would have to swap the yoke to a standard res yoke, but the tube is compatible.
Was there a place to hook up your dag wire on this chassis ?
Yes. Pin on the neckboard right next to the neck socket. The chassis comes with the proper connector.
Is this for a Standard Resolution? I’m looking to replace a standard Res Neotec 2501 chassis on an RCA tube. I’ve been looking at this as an option.
Yup. Should be a drop in replacement.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Awesome! Can you post a link for where you purchased it?
www.ebay.com/itm/264517978729?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D8c3d31ff503b44448e9158870fd45f09%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D264517978729%26itm%3D264517978729%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae71165ed-208c-11ec-bd8d-be69afc97c36%7Cparentrq%3A2dbe24f417c0ab859dd0fe55fff86ebe%7Ciid%3A1
Will it work with a zenith 25 inch? Vertical yoke res 1.6 ohm and 27 ohms horizontal res. Or is the horizontal res too high?
Tube, yes. Yoke, not likely. Horizontal needs to be around 2.0. And Vertical needs to be around 10 ohms. I think you have those readings backwards.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair thanks mate! Love your work
My k7191 took a hit.. was wondering about these
Always suggest trying to fix the K7000 over using one of these but if that’s not possible, these do work for what they are.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair my vpos needs to go up n cant
The K7000 is working otherwise? I would not replace it just because of that. Try adjusting the 50/60hz pot next to the H.Pos pot first.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair what's that do?
ua-cam.com/video/U-OWxCVft1M/v-deo.html
Do they make one for 19" crt's???? I can't find online. Only for 25" or above.
Yes but all suppliers are out. Have been for a while.
What website would sell 19" chassis when available?
EBay
It's possible to mount this on a 19 CRT ?
No. This model is 25-29” only.
Do you have a link for these?
www.ebay.com/itm/313317479684?hash=item48f32d5504:g:W1IAAOSwY-NdocEm&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8M8EqqNB0AfXy5ZpmKXfCSroqpxH3OQK70tYfZt1XpoHaTWTO%2BgxJ8OARqZs72%2Fpe41CgKVmC2c7oQZ8z9TVAZmhVdQCX2Ih%2BYkC6vTqi9k3ykY5GA8kx9ADJfdGrTkqWgv2HjCr3XCm%2F4jD77RZJ79JQvLjKQbBsv%2F0ckXNP2n3A11Y4t89nRADQIIl9QzlhxQ2TkrBbyOvbxskbJoS6osNtA%2FQbbCMjhgqQSnMoBdF7ptWXpHW54f1g3t8qJZBI4NGFfZgJlqczEMbj7Kfr3%2BbP%2BJcPR79LobGj6ZT3PTk3w7IKISRJYNzcyB24EJy9g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM4Paena1i
Is there a link to where you can purchase these?
www.ebay.com/itm/313317479684?hash=item48f32d5504:g:W1IAAOSwY-NdocEm
what is the size of that tube ? it look big
25”
엄청 도움이 되는 영상이다. 감사하다.
Will this support a tri sync monitor?
No. Standard res monitor/yoke only.
@
Thank you.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair
One more question. Will a chassis for a 20” monitor work with a 25” tube? Sorry for the basic questions but I’m a novice. I had a makvision 25” trisync chassis blow out on me and the tube is in excellent shape. Been pulling my hair out trying to find a replacement chassis.
No problem. Technically yes, but the image will be too small on the screen and you'd have to change a handful of components to compensate. It's not worth the effort. Unfortunately, the Makvsions are notorious for being junk and the only replacement would be another digital, tri-res chassis. If it's a 24.8" Makvision, your only option would be another 24.8" tri-res Makvision chassis. If it's a 27" Makvision (as long as it's tri-res and not VGA only), you can use a D9200, D9400, or Neotec 500DX to the best of my knowledge since those are tri-res 27" chassis.'
@
It’s a 24.8” monitor 🤦🏻♂️. I tried the unico 26” lcd and it was awful. Even with a CGA to VGA adapter the contrast was unbearable and the pixels were all stretched.
Am I an idiot for hooking one of these up to a TV Tube?
Not if the yoke is within spec.
Does it work with a TV CRT?
Yup
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Does it work with a 34'' Sony Triniton?
No. Almost nothing works with a Trinitron.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Saw a guy saying there's a specific board, but that he doesn't remember its name and it's a rare find. At least there's something out there.
Take it to the arcade and let’s see how long she last
I had one of these chassis and yea they are dark, if you have a tired tube then your wasting you time, i had mine on a fairly new tube but still to dark, i had it on there for about month until the flyback smoked it self silly and decided to turn it self into a bonfire, so now its in a box of junk and put the wg back in, these chassis are cheap but its hit and miss with reliability, the lack of a contrast and proper brightness pots is a bit anoying its best to stick with a well known brand, i would never trust one of these again my one nearly totalled my bigblue cab, when those chinese flybacks go they go in style.