Thanks for your comment🙏and thank you for watching! I plan to continue to produce more videos (as time permits). It's a ton of work but I really enjoy it and I'm getting used to it. Thanks again!
Thanks for your comment🙏Yes, that was my conclusion after looking at all the data. It was also what I had expected from testing the 4080 (and 4090s). It seems like the cards are efficient enough to be pushed to their limits by simply slapping a large triple fan cooler on it. Overclocking the cards always added noticeable temp increases and marginal FPS increases, if any. Undervolting nearly always resulted in significant decrease in power usage with a nearly nil decrease in FPS. I chose an easy to cool CPU as a complement to the 4080, but having it undervolted is simply the cherry on top. Thanks again for watching and commenting
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I sincerely appreciate your encouragement and I plan to do my best to improve with each new video. The next video I working on is a Price to Performance watercooled build. I'm also working on a MORA-420 episode and waiting for the Optimus block for Founders Edition 4090 to release so I can do a video on that one and then a build. Hope that helps and thank you for watching!
bro this is crazy 2k subs, and this videos production is way higher for someone with that amount of subs not to mention the fact your spending this much money for just this video. you deserve a sub my brother
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Thank you friend. You totally get it. I am not making anything on this stuff. The costs, not just the dollars, but the time, blood, sweat and tears. It's for peanuts. Having said that, I love this stuff and I just released a new video with my best production value so far. Hope you enjoy. ua-cam.com/video/zH-YWCSDi2E/v-deo.htmlsi=SPv3CT4cC2tVmAUt
Thanks for your comment🙏and thank you for watching and for the encouragement. I plan to continually produce videos. I hope to get them out faster, but time is always a limiting factor. It's an absurd amount of work but I really enjoy it and I'm getting used to it. The plan for the next video is a Restoration of a 1080ti Founders Edition in a Heatkiller IV block. I bought it used and its really gunked up. Going to restore it on camera and see how it runs on the test rig. I think the 1080ti is absolutely still a relevant card and thought it would be interesting to show its restoration on this channel, but then I'm a bit wary about showcasing such an older generation card. Anyways, thanks again for watching and commenting!
*Im glad you made this because I want to do this with the 7900 XTX and the Q58 case, yet the companies I emailed like Corsair were literally like dont attempt this. I want to see others in the space that have done it*
Thanks for your comment 🙏I agree and spot on about how you mentioned the Q58. That is the case in the video that was released today: ua-cam.com/video/zH-YWCSDi2E/v-deo.htmlsi=SPv3CT4cC2tVmAUt
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate the perspective. I tried my best to consider the best part and placement for each and every component. I had tried to do the same with an RTX 3080 earlier, but this iteration took all the things I learned from the first go-around and presented in a way that thought would be enjoyable to watch. I hope you stay tuned for future videos. Thanks again.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 congrats that is quite the combo and I'm not surprised that the meshlicious can handle it. There has been a lot of new cases in the ITX space, yet I'm not sure if any of them has improved on the Meshlicious's exact layout. If there something better, I would probably try it.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 and thank you for the kind words! This build was a long time in the making. I made the first one with the Intel version of the block with 3080 and was never satisfied. I thought about it until the 4080 came out and AM5 was equally as efficient. I do believe this is the best way to get a full custom loop into such a small ITX enclosure. Usually the rad and the pump/reservoir combo are deal breakers in getting anything to fit. I have actually built in the TT Tower 100. It was certainly a different type of case, but I think it was more suited for air cooling. But I haven't seen the 200, which sounds bigger. Thanks again
Thanks for your comment🙏and thanks for watching! The point of the build was to watercool a 4080 in an itx case. Normally it's not possible without modifications (cutting the case with a dremel, drilling more screw holes, etc) and may not perform well because of the lack of radiator space and tight enclosures lead to buildup of heat. But with the release of two new product, I thought this build would be possible--the EKWB cpu block thats a 3-in-1 and the RTX 4080 that has incredible performance for its heat output/wattage--a significant step up from the 3080. So, it all fit using micro fittings and the result was really cool. The GPU/CPU are cool and quiet. The fans are on max but 140mm thats only about 1000 rpm and its sufficiently low enough even while sitting on the desk next the user. Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork some of this went over my head, but I have a lot of respect for super nerds that try new stuff on a high level and these kind of builds may be hinting at the future of PCs to come
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The reason I did the build in the Meshlicious is that it sort of perfectly fits everything. It is already a tight (tight) fit. The spine in the middle is adjustable so that allowed adjustments where the GPU side is smaller than the CPU side. That is important because of the pure size of the CPU block/reservoir/pump combo and that is without the fittings. Everything fits just barely with the micro-fittings and I put the whole kit and kaboodle in there with the aquacomputer controller, etc. The 280 rad fits perfectly took, no wasted space there. So, yes, I would really like to see another case that can fit all these components and if it does it well I would might as well do another video, but I haven't found one yet. Let me know if you have any in mind. Hope that helps
my cpu and gpu gets very hot while gaming in around 15-30 min depends on game what should i do 13900f using boxed intel cooler rtx 4080 msi suprim x corsair 4000d airflow mid tower atx
@Vector Network - Now that you have lived with the EK Pump/Res CPU cooler for a little while. What are your thoughts on the DCC pump at the CPU? The only thing I think about is the fluids have a little spike in temp because they are sitting on the CPU? What do you and do you not like so far? Thank You
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Great question, I like talking about this stuff. To address your thought about a potential spike in temperature because they are sitting on the CPU, I'm not sure that will be an issue for a couple of reasons. Firstly, if you're talking about the DDC getting too hot, it uses the metal enclosure as a heatsink, so that is sufficient. If you're talking about the coolant getting to hot because of its proximity to the CPU, then I don't think that's an issue. The flowrate is sufficient and separately, the CPU is a power efficient 6-core processor. Its primary purpose is to complement the GPU, which is going to do most of the heavy lifting. The CPU temp never gets that hot in the loop. As far as what I like or don't like about it so far, I'll start with the negatives and go to the positives. It's a SFF build, so it retains any negatives in general about SFF builds. The build absolutely requires a DDC pump. The next video will be a price-to-performance build and will showcase the differences between a D5 and DDC pump (primarily in size). So, I would like to have a D5 pump, the DDC pump is perfectly sufficient. I would also like a little less noise as it sits on the desk (it's perfectly quiet, I would always prefer near silent though), but this is the best 280mm rad plus 140mm fan combo until early next year when Noctua plans to release their new 140mm fans. As for the positives, the performance and it flat out works. I've been thinking about this build for more than a year, especially after I did this same build with a 3080 that had issues that were completely addressed with this new build. The build had to be made of completely stock parts (no modifications), as a lot of watercooling builds require drilling extra holes or using a dremel, etc. Everything in this build fits nearly perfectly and every little place in the case is filled with a purpose. It flat out works. The performance is that of a 4080, no compromise, cool and quiet and manhandles any game with all the fixings right now. Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork - Thank you so much for all the feed back. I will stay posted on your channel. I did check out the D5 pumps, like the EK 80 RAD with a D5 pump attached. I use a dual d5 in my current setup by EK - powerhouse. So for me, I am a bit spoiled. BUT this is ITX, and in these smaller cases, you have to be safe and not sorry. Alphacool has a single and a dual d5 brass top units, with some active ports, that could make water lopped extremely easy. BUT now I run a risk of filling up the case, with parts that may not be as effienciet when comparing to prices. I plan on using the Intel 14K, and I really considered the Modultra Pump/Block combo. But that forces a resivvor separate from everything else. Modultra is testing the 1700 direct die block, but it is not out just yet. EK, already allows the block you have to go with direct die. I would like to do some overclocking - just to get out everything from the CPU.
Oh, dual D5. PC is where you can do whatever you want. Sounds awesome man. I never tried more than 1. Hm and you want to use the Intel 14K. For this build, the assignment was trying to fit the best gaming performance into a true ITX case that could only fit one 280mm rad. So, a 4090 was not going to work because I think I would need pair it with at least an 8-core CPU and then I would think the 280 radiator would then not handle the combo and would generate too much heat and throttle. Not fun. So, the goal was a 4080. To complement the 4080, a 6-core power efficient CPU was selected. The 7600 is a breeze to cool. The power usage of the combined build is just low enough to be able to squeeze the performance out of the parts. It gets even better when the GPU is undervolted. If you're starting the build with a 14K in mind, what will pair with it for the GPU? Which case?
Also, not sure how to get ahold of you but I do have the Parvum X Rama prototype case and i'm looking for ideas for the build. Would love to send some ideas back and forth!
Great video as always! I am highly interested to build something similar in the future. As of today for your region and I let you have a 20% differential what would you estimate the total value to be?
Thanks for your comment🙏Do you mean how much does the whole build cost? In the description, there is a parts list, I'll also copy it below. The most expensive items are the RTX 4080, the CPU block, the GPU block, the motherboard and CPU. There are also a significant amount of fittings used in the build. For example, I used to EK micro torque fittings because they were small enough to fit. I used a lot of them. Fittings themselves will be several hundred dollars. Hope that helps CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 7600 CPU Water Block - EK-Quantum Velocity² DDC 4.2 PWM D-RGB - AM5 Nickel + Plexi CPU Thermal Guard - Noctua NA-STPG1 CPU Thermal Paste - Noctua NT-H2 Motherboard - Gigabyte B650I Aorus Ultra GPU - ASUS TUF RTX 4080 GPU Water Block - Watercool Heatkiller V PC Case - SSUPD Meshlicious ITX Case Memory - G.Skill Flare X5 DDR5 32GB 6000MT Controller - Aquacomputer Quadro Temperature Sensor - Aquacomputer Ambient Temperature Sensor Coolant Sensor - Barrow Coolant Sensor Coolant - Mayhems X1 Eco Clear Radiator - Alphacool ST30 Fans - be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 Pro 140mm x2 Fittings - EKWB Micro Torque Black, Barrow Manual Exhaust Tubing - Watercool Heatkiller EPDM 13/10 Power Supply - Corsair SF750 Platinum 80+ 12vhpwr Cable - Corsair for Type 4 PSUs (SF750)
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Do you mean the backplate for the CPU block? If so, it uses the stock AM5 backplate. There isn't anything additional. You unscrew the stock brackets and use the same screw holes. You have to screw it in counter clockwise from the back. Hope that helps
So I'm trying to visualize a very similar idea to your build on my pc, and I can't help but to notice that you never showed us where the "Aquacomputer Ambient Temperature Sensor" was installed/placed nor what it looked like. Is the "Aquacomputer Ambient Temperature Sensor" needed for everything to work flawlessly? I'm not trying to be rude or anything, I just need clarification because I'm confused haha. Or I might be to tired to see it lol. But you did install the "Barrow Coolant Sensor" on the radiator:) Otherwise I really enjoyed this video and found it very helpful!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Good question and I didn't show that part. What the sensor is simply one of those generic temperature sensors you may receive along with some water-cooling components or maybe even with your motherboard if it has specific water-cooling sensor inputs. One side goes into the quadro 2 pin temp connector and the other side is this thin metal temp sensor that just stuck to the side of the case and called it "ambient temp sensor". It's not needed and a bit confusing so I cut that portion from more recent videos. Hope that gelps
Thanks for your comment🙏My understanding is that isopropyl alcohol is generally safe for cleaning metal surfaces like nickel-plated copper as it evaporates quickly and doesn't leave a residue. I do avoid it on acrylic. I did also ensure the brush was soft as to not potentially leave scratches. I did put more than usual on the block for effect, but I did quickly dab it off with a microfiber cloth off camera. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏At this point in time, with no modifications, stock components, yes. A 4090 will likely technically fit in the case, but I am not sure if a 280 rad will be enough to cool it and a capable CPU to properly pair with it. The 4080 is perfect and can be combined with another power efficient 6-core Ryzen CPU. Powerful and power efficient and perform well undervolted. The be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 is on the top end of performance/noise until the revised Gen2 Noctua 140mm fans come out next year. The Alphacool radiator also fits the case near perfectly and has 5 ports so its easier to add all those accessories. I have sincerely thought about this build since the original RTX 3080 build in this case and the build with the 4080 addresses all the issues I had with the first build. Hope that helps.
@@vectornetwork it's been almost 1 year since your fantastic video and 9 months since your message above. Anything you would add, change or improve for this build? Perhaps you already have a newer version of an ITX build that you would like to direct me to?
@@levelont5560 Wow what a comment. Currently, I've been trying to make my way through this dark forest, not exactly sure what to do next. Did you see the video where the goal was an ITX build with a 4090 that is silent? ua-cam.com/video/P0WcbHW9kxg/v-deo.html Then I followed up with the same idea of an Endgame ITX build with a 4090 but allowing for both with and without an external radiator setup. ua-cam.com/video/zH-YWCSDi2E/v-deo.html Currently, I have the Form T1 ITX case shipping to me and should arrive sooner than later. From there, I'll likely build the T1 (since it comes flat packed) and then do a 4080 super build. That should be the next build video. Hope that helps and thanks for watching and commenting 🙏
@@vectornetwork I did watch them, yes. Impeccable work! ✊🏽 I might use the latter (Endgame ITX) as a reference for my project - without an external radiator. Looking forward to that T1 build!
Thanks for your comment🙏Anything is possible my friend. But will that work with this build? No. The GPU is already a tight fit and there is not additional room for the rad (30mm) and fans (25mm). Keep in mind that the whole build is stock without any custom modifications. No dremel needed, no additional screw holes needed and it fits with all the mesh covers on. Hope that helps
Uh... Stupid question, when you fill up the reservoir and turn on the pump, the water will be sucked by pump and there should be plenty of bubbles surge into the reservoir simultaneously. My question is, will the water be splashed out of fill whole by bubbles? If not, then it's fine. If so, then what should we do? Close the fill whole? But that will block the air and it won't be able to escape from the loop. Thank you for your time.
Good question, sounds like you're really thinking through each part of the process. Yes, you're flat out right, given that the pump is right there, there should be some splash. Well, it is watercooling. Viewer won't see it in the footage, but I splash and spill things a lot more than I probably should (especially given that its harder with the camera there). Having said that, there isn't much to be concerned about from splash-back here. The most I've gotten was maybe a few drops. There is more chance that I will inadvertently squeeze the bottle and have it squirt all over. I would just keep a cloth nearby and just turn on the pump with the plug hole open. Nothing will really happen. Just make sure you got some liquid in there before turning it on. Make sure the pump is wet. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏 No, the number you see is the number with the 21C already added. I changed the charts in more recent videos as that was a little confusing. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏 That combo would work well in the build. My understanding is that the blocks will fit the new supers. I have only installed one block on the Strix Super (alphacool) and it fits but I have yet to test it. Alphacool has also come out and say that their blocks are compatible but I have not researched any other brand. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I actually do have a gyroscopic Dewalt screwdriver, but in the videos I'm using a regular small blue screwdriver with bits. In an upcoming video, I am switching over to the Noctua x LTT ratcheting screwdriver. In the videos, I only show a brief moment for each screw. While taking the footage, I just screw it until its right based on too many years of experience. Everything has a slightly different torque and slightly different screw, I can see now how it can be confusing. I would recommend a regular screwdriver with changeable bits and making sure that the tip of each bit is magnetized (using a magnetizing tool usually included in screwdriver sets, takes 5 seconds per bit). Hope that helps
@@000hitec000 Oh got it, you're talking about when reassemble the water block after taking it apart for cleaning. It is one of the harder parts to get perfect. We're talking about taking off about 15-18 screws from any acrylic top and then screwing them back. If they are too loose, then you might get leakage. If they are too tight, then you might crack the acrylic. And there are so many screws. It's likely because it's needed. If the vendor could get away with less screws they probably would. So, for this part and for me, it's all based on feel. I torque as tight as possible without putting any extra weight into besides my hand. If it doesn't move on the first normal twist, then it's done. Hope that helps
Lets keep in mind, not only were the 30 series marketed as "4k" cards, but the 40 as "8k". 😂😂😂 A 6 year old game hitting 48 fps at 4k is hardly and 8k card. Nice look, I'm liking the heat killer the more builds i see with it, at first i thought it was god ugly.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I agree, the 30-series is not really for 4K, even considering the 3090. The 3080 is a solid 1440p (2K) card. The 40-series with the 4080 and 4090 have really unleashed 4K gaming and those are solid 4K cards. Watercool and their HK brand is on point. I will continue to use HK products and my next video will showcase the HK Noctua 420 Mora. Thanks again for watching.
I will require proof that the PCIE 4.0 port will still operate at x16 even when all 3 M.2 ports are utilized. I have this motherboard with all 3 M.2 ports populated, and I have thus far failed to have any software report anything above x8 for my GPU
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I absolutely combed the manual (several times) and verified via HWiNFO before I would make such a claim. It was a surprise to me when the manual indicated that the GPU would run at x16 irregardless of the population of the m.2 slots. This is not something I was used to with AM5, but it makde sense (to me) with AM5's higher bandwidth and connectivity. It would have been a lot easier for me to install one m.2 nvme and call it a day. In any case, I verified again that the software reports x16. Are you using a riser cable? If so, have you ensured that it's 4.0? I had to get a new riser cable for this build. Hope that helps.
@@vectornetworkThe problem is indeed the riser cable. It'a the original cable that came with Meshlicious, and it IS 4.0, but seems to be faulty since I get x16 when I connect the GPU to the slot directly.
Wow, I'm glad that was identified. I went through the same thing with this build. I nearly tore the whole thing apart trying to troubleshoot an issue that ended up being a faulty riser cable.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the clarity of your presentation when it comes to the products you are using in the build
Thanks for your comment🙏and thank you for watching! I plan to continue to produce more videos (as time permits). It's a ton of work but I really enjoy it and I'm getting used to it. Thanks again!
Please enjoy watching 🙏
Really interesting how undervolting even with 40xx series keep worthing these days.
Great video and scenes as always
Thanks for your comment🙏Yes, that was my conclusion after looking at all the data. It was also what I had expected from testing the 4080 (and 4090s). It seems like the cards are efficient enough to be pushed to their limits by simply slapping a large triple fan cooler on it. Overclocking the cards always added noticeable temp increases and marginal FPS increases, if any. Undervolting nearly always resulted in significant decrease in power usage with a nearly nil decrease in FPS. I chose an easy to cool CPU as a complement to the 4080, but having it undervolted is simply the cherry on top. Thanks again for watching and commenting
amazing video quality. thought I was watching someone with tens of thousands of subs. earned my sub
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I sincerely appreciate your encouragement and I plan to do my best to improve with each new video. The next video I working on is a Price to Performance watercooled build. I'm also working on a MORA-420 episode and waiting for the Optimus block for Founders Edition 4090 to release so I can do a video on that one and then a build. Hope that helps and thank you for watching!
bro this is crazy 2k subs, and this videos production is way higher for someone with that amount of subs not to mention the fact your spending this much money for just this video. you deserve a sub my brother
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Thank you friend. You totally get it. I am not making anything on this stuff. The costs, not just the dollars, but the time, blood, sweat and tears. It's for peanuts. Having said that, I love this stuff and I just released a new video with my best production value so far. Hope you enjoy. ua-cam.com/video/zH-YWCSDi2E/v-deo.htmlsi=SPv3CT4cC2tVmAUt
great video as always bos.. im first to comment.. haha.. hope u will grow into one of the best pc watercooling channel in youtube
Thanks for your comment🙏and thank you for watching and for the encouragement. I plan to continually produce videos. I hope to get them out faster, but time is always a limiting factor. It's an absurd amount of work but I really enjoy it and I'm getting used to it. The plan for the next video is a Restoration of a 1080ti Founders Edition in a Heatkiller IV block. I bought it used and its really gunked up. Going to restore it on camera and see how it runs on the test rig. I think the 1080ti is absolutely still a relevant card and thought it would be interesting to show its restoration on this channel, but then I'm a bit wary about showcasing such an older generation card. Anyways, thanks again for watching and commenting!
Dude you are amazing for spelling all these out. True king
*Im glad you made this because I want to do this with the 7900 XTX and the Q58 case, yet the companies I emailed like Corsair were literally like dont attempt this. I want to see others in the space that have done it*
Thanks for your comment 🙏I agree and spot on about how you mentioned the Q58. That is the case in the video that was released today: ua-cam.com/video/zH-YWCSDi2E/v-deo.htmlsi=SPv3CT4cC2tVmAUt
Not a computer but a work of art.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate the perspective. I tried my best to consider the best part and placement for each and every component. I had tried to do the same with an RTX 3080 earlier, but this iteration took all the things I learned from the first go-around and presented in a way that thought would be enjoyable to watch. I hope you stay tuned for future videos. Thanks again.
I love this case, I have a 13900k with a 240mm rad, and a gigabyte 4090 air cooled
Thanks for your comment 🙏 congrats that is quite the combo and I'm not surprised that the meshlicious can handle it. There has been a lot of new cases in the ITX space, yet I'm not sure if any of them has improved on the Meshlicious's exact layout. If there something better, I would probably try it.
@@vectornetwork my next case will probably be the thermaltake tower 200, it can also house my hardware, a bit bigger but it looks way nicer
Lovely video with great commentary. I want a build like this but in the thermaltake tower 200
Thanks for your comment 🙏 and thank you for the kind words! This build was a long time in the making. I made the first one with the Intel version of the block with 3080 and was never satisfied. I thought about it until the 4080 came out and AM5 was equally as efficient. I do believe this is the best way to get a full custom loop into such a small ITX enclosure. Usually the rad and the pump/reservoir combo are deal breakers in getting anything to fit. I have actually built in the TT Tower 100. It was certainly a different type of case, but I think it was more suited for air cooling. But I haven't seen the 200, which sounds bigger. Thanks again
such an unusual build, very interesting
Thanks for your comment🙏and thanks for watching! The point of the build was to watercool a 4080 in an itx case. Normally it's not possible without modifications (cutting the case with a dremel, drilling more screw holes, etc) and may not perform well because of the lack of radiator space and tight enclosures lead to buildup of heat. But with the release of two new product, I thought this build would be possible--the EKWB cpu block thats a 3-in-1 and the RTX 4080 that has incredible performance for its heat output/wattage--a significant step up from the 3080. So, it all fit using micro fittings and the result was really cool. The GPU/CPU are cool and quiet. The fans are on max but 140mm thats only about 1000 rpm and its sufficiently low enough even while sitting on the desk next the user. Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork some of this went over my head, but I have a lot of respect for super nerds that try new stuff on a high level and these kind of builds may be hinting at the future of PCs to come
I wonder if there’s an even smaller case for this combo build since one 240rad can cool both components 🤔
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The reason I did the build in the Meshlicious is that it sort of perfectly fits everything. It is already a tight (tight) fit. The spine in the middle is adjustable so that allowed adjustments where the GPU side is smaller than the CPU side. That is important because of the pure size of the CPU block/reservoir/pump combo and that is without the fittings. Everything fits just barely with the micro-fittings and I put the whole kit and kaboodle in there with the aquacomputer controller, etc. The 280 rad fits perfectly took, no wasted space there. So, yes, I would really like to see another case that can fit all these components and if it does it well I would might as well do another video, but I haven't found one yet. Let me know if you have any in mind. Hope that helps
my cpu and gpu gets very hot while gaming in around 15-30 min depends on game what should i do
13900f using boxed intel cooler
rtx 4080 msi suprim x
corsair 4000d airflow mid tower atx
@Vector Network - Now that you have lived with the EK Pump/Res CPU cooler for a little while. What are your thoughts on the DCC pump at the CPU? The only thing I think about is the fluids have a little spike in temp because they are sitting on the CPU? What do you and do you not like so far? Thank You
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Great question, I like talking about this stuff. To address your thought about a potential spike in temperature because they are sitting on the CPU, I'm not sure that will be an issue for a couple of reasons. Firstly, if you're talking about the DDC getting too hot, it uses the metal enclosure as a heatsink, so that is sufficient. If you're talking about the coolant getting to hot because of its proximity to the CPU, then I don't think that's an issue. The flowrate is sufficient and separately, the CPU is a power efficient 6-core processor. Its primary purpose is to complement the GPU, which is going to do most of the heavy lifting. The CPU temp never gets that hot in the loop.
As far as what I like or don't like about it so far, I'll start with the negatives and go to the positives.
It's a SFF build, so it retains any negatives in general about SFF builds. The build absolutely requires a DDC pump. The next video will be a price-to-performance build and will showcase the differences between a D5 and DDC pump (primarily in size). So, I would like to have a D5 pump, the DDC pump is perfectly sufficient. I would also like a little less noise as it sits on the desk (it's perfectly quiet, I would always prefer near silent though), but this is the best 280mm rad plus 140mm fan combo until early next year when Noctua plans to release their new 140mm fans.
As for the positives, the performance and it flat out works. I've been thinking about this build for more than a year, especially after I did this same build with a 3080 that had issues that were completely addressed with this new build. The build had to be made of completely stock parts (no modifications), as a lot of watercooling builds require drilling extra holes or using a dremel, etc. Everything in this build fits nearly perfectly and every little place in the case is filled with a purpose.
It flat out works. The performance is that of a 4080, no compromise, cool and quiet and manhandles any game with all the fixings right now. Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork - Thank you so much for all the feed back. I will stay posted on your channel. I did check out the D5 pumps, like the EK 80 RAD with a D5 pump attached. I use a dual d5 in my current setup by EK - powerhouse. So for me, I am a bit spoiled. BUT this is ITX, and in these smaller cases, you have to be safe and not sorry.
Alphacool has a single and a dual d5 brass top units, with some active ports, that could make water lopped extremely easy. BUT now I run a risk of filling up the case, with parts that may not be as effienciet when comparing to prices.
I plan on using the Intel 14K, and I really considered the Modultra Pump/Block combo. But that forces a resivvor separate from everything else. Modultra is testing the 1700 direct die block, but it is not out just yet. EK, already allows the block you have to go with direct die. I would like to do some overclocking - just to get out everything from the CPU.
Oh, dual D5. PC is where you can do whatever you want. Sounds awesome man. I never tried more than 1. Hm and you want to use the Intel 14K. For this build, the assignment was trying to fit the best gaming performance into a true ITX case that could only fit one 280mm rad. So, a 4090 was not going to work because I think I would need pair it with at least an 8-core CPU and then I would think the 280 radiator would then not handle the combo and would generate too much heat and throttle. Not fun. So, the goal was a 4080. To complement the 4080, a 6-core power efficient CPU was selected. The 7600 is a breeze to cool. The power usage of the combined build is just low enough to be able to squeeze the performance out of the parts. It gets even better when the GPU is undervolted. If you're starting the build with a 14K in mind, what will pair with it for the GPU? Which case?
@@vectornetwork - Thank you so much for the information shared!!! Have an amazing Christmas Holiday!
Excellent build!
Also, not sure how to get ahold of you but I do have the Parvum X Rama prototype case and i'm looking for ideas for the build. Would love to send some ideas back and forth!
Great video as always! I am highly interested to build something similar in the future. As of today for your region and I let you have a 20% differential what would you estimate the total value to be?
Thanks for your comment🙏Do you mean how much does the whole build cost? In the description, there is a parts list, I'll also copy it below.
The most expensive items are the RTX 4080, the CPU block, the GPU block, the motherboard and CPU. There are also a significant amount of fittings used in the build. For example, I used to EK micro torque fittings because they were small enough to fit. I used a lot of them. Fittings themselves will be several hundred dollars. Hope that helps
CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 7600
CPU Water Block - EK-Quantum Velocity² DDC 4.2 PWM D-RGB - AM5 Nickel + Plexi
CPU Thermal Guard - Noctua NA-STPG1
CPU Thermal Paste - Noctua NT-H2
Motherboard - Gigabyte B650I Aorus Ultra
GPU - ASUS TUF RTX 4080
GPU Water Block - Watercool Heatkiller V
PC Case - SSUPD Meshlicious ITX Case
Memory - G.Skill Flare X5 DDR5 32GB 6000MT
Controller - Aquacomputer Quadro
Temperature Sensor - Aquacomputer Ambient Temperature Sensor
Coolant Sensor - Barrow Coolant Sensor
Coolant - Mayhems X1 Eco Clear
Radiator - Alphacool ST30
Fans - be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 Pro 140mm x2
Fittings - EKWB Micro Torque Black, Barrow Manual Exhaust
Tubing - Watercool Heatkiller EPDM 13/10
Power Supply - Corsair SF750 Platinum 80+
12vhpwr Cable - Corsair for Type 4 PSUs (SF750)
@@vectornetwork oh thank you!
Thanks for the break down guide,
dose the block come with a backplate? os is it intergated into the block its self?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Do you mean the backplate for the CPU block? If so, it uses the stock AM5 backplate. There isn't anything additional. You unscrew the stock brackets and use the same screw holes. You have to screw it in counter clockwise from the back. Hope that helps
can you make a ncased t1 watercooled build?
How long had the pc been running before the test results were shown?
add 15° to temp
So I'm trying to visualize a very similar idea to your build on my pc, and I can't help but to notice that you never showed us where the "Aquacomputer Ambient Temperature Sensor" was installed/placed nor what it looked like. Is the "Aquacomputer Ambient Temperature Sensor" needed for everything to work flawlessly? I'm not trying to be rude or anything, I just need clarification because I'm confused haha. Or I might be to tired to see it lol. But you did install the "Barrow Coolant Sensor" on the radiator:)
Otherwise I really enjoyed this video and found it very helpful!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Good question and I didn't show that part. What the sensor is simply one of those generic temperature sensors you may receive along with some water-cooling components or maybe even with your motherboard if it has specific water-cooling sensor inputs. One side goes into the quadro 2 pin temp connector and the other side is this thin metal temp sensor that just stuck to the side of the case and called it "ambient temp sensor". It's not needed and a bit confusing so I cut that portion from more recent videos. Hope that gelps
@@vectornetwork Thanks for the explanation 🙏. I fully understand it now, Helps allot! :D
Wait I thought you weren't supposed to use isopropyl alcohol to clean the nickel plated copper? Or am I missing something?
Thanks for your comment🙏My understanding is that isopropyl alcohol is generally safe for cleaning metal surfaces like nickel-plated copper as it evaporates quickly and doesn't leave a residue. I do avoid it on acrylic. I did also ensure the brush was soft as to not potentially leave scratches. I did put more than usual on the block for effect, but I did quickly dab it off with a microfiber cloth off camera. Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork yes thanks for letting me know so when I go to clean my block next time I will use a little bit of iso
is this the best mini gaming desktop configuration ?
Thanks for your comment 🙏At this point in time, with no modifications, stock components, yes. A 4090 will likely technically fit in the case, but I am not sure if a 280 rad will be enough to cool it and a capable CPU to properly pair with it. The 4080 is perfect and can be combined with another power efficient 6-core Ryzen CPU. Powerful and power efficient and perform well undervolted. The be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 is on the top end of performance/noise until the revised Gen2 Noctua 140mm fans come out next year. The Alphacool radiator also fits the case near perfectly and has 5 ports so its easier to add all those accessories. I have sincerely thought about this build since the original RTX 3080 build in this case and the build with the 4080 addresses all the issues I had with the first build. Hope that helps.
@@vectornetwork it's been almost 1 year since your fantastic video and 9 months since your message above. Anything you would add, change or improve for this build? Perhaps you already have a newer version of an ITX build that you would like to direct me to?
@@levelont5560 Wow what a comment. Currently, I've been trying to make my way through this dark forest, not exactly sure what to do next.
Did you see the video where the goal was an ITX build with a 4090 that is silent? ua-cam.com/video/P0WcbHW9kxg/v-deo.html
Then I followed up with the same idea of an Endgame ITX build with a 4090 but allowing for both with and without an external radiator setup. ua-cam.com/video/zH-YWCSDi2E/v-deo.html
Currently, I have the Form T1 ITX case shipping to me and should arrive sooner than later. From there, I'll likely build the T1 (since it comes flat packed) and then do a 4080 super build. That should be the next build video.
Hope that helps and thanks for watching and commenting
🙏
@@vectornetwork I did watch them, yes. Impeccable work! ✊🏽
I might use the latter (Endgame ITX) as a reference for my project - without an external radiator.
Looking forward to that T1 build!
@@levelont5560 Solid solid thank you thank you wow
If it’s possible to put another 140mm or 120mm radiator on GPU side.
Thanks for your comment🙏Anything is possible my friend. But will that work with this build? No. The GPU is already a tight fit and there is not additional room for the rad (30mm) and fans (25mm). Keep in mind that the whole build is stock without any custom modifications. No dremel needed, no additional screw holes needed and it fits with all the mesh covers on. Hope that helps
@@vectornetworkWhat about slim fans and slim radiator, for example tx120 from XSPC which is only 20.5mm and noctua A12x15.
What is the total weight?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I have it weighing in at 26 lbs. Hope that helps
Do you think the EK CPU pump/block combo would be a good candidate for the NR200?
Uh... Stupid question, when you fill up the reservoir and turn on the pump, the water will be sucked by pump and there should be plenty of bubbles surge into the reservoir simultaneously. My question is, will the water be splashed out of fill whole by bubbles? If not, then it's fine. If so, then what should we do? Close the fill whole? But that will block the air and it won't be able to escape from the loop. Thank you for your time.
Good question, sounds like you're really thinking through each part of the process. Yes, you're flat out right, given that the pump is right there, there should be some splash. Well, it is watercooling. Viewer won't see it in the footage, but I splash and spill things a lot more than I probably should (especially given that its harder with the camera there). Having said that, there isn't much to be concerned about from splash-back here. The most I've gotten was maybe a few drops. There is more chance that I will inadvertently squeeze the bottle and have it squirt all over. I would just keep a cloth nearby and just turn on the pump with the plug hole open. Nothing will really happen. Just make sure you got some liquid in there before turning it on. Make sure the pump is wet. Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork thank you for this thorough reply.
Hey, the temperatures on the charts are delta and to get real temperatures you have to add 21C ambient to them?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 No, the number you see is the number with the 21C already added. I changed the charts in more recent videos as that was a little confusing. Hope that helps
Would love to replicate this build with a 7800 x3d & 4080 super. Do you know if heatkiller blocks are compatible with the super cards?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 That combo would work well in the build. My understanding is that the blocks will fit the new supers. I have only installed one block on the Strix Super (alphacool) and it fits but I have yet to test it. Alphacool has also come out and say that their blocks are compatible but I have not researched any other brand. Hope that helps
Do you use dynamometric screwdriver? Or you have perfect knowledge when to stop screwing?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I actually do have a gyroscopic Dewalt screwdriver, but in the videos I'm using a regular small blue screwdriver with bits. In an upcoming video, I am switching over to the Noctua x LTT ratcheting screwdriver. In the videos, I only show a brief moment for each screw. While taking the footage, I just screw it until its right based on too many years of experience. Everything has a slightly different torque and slightly different screw, I can see now how it can be confusing. I would recommend a regular screwdriver with changeable bits and making sure that the tip of each bit is magnetized (using a magnetizing tool usually included in screwdriver sets, takes 5 seconds per bit). Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork When you disassembled the water block, you then very carefully twisted the acrylic panel, that's what I'm afraid of
@@000hitec000 Oh got it, you're talking about when reassemble the water block after taking it apart for cleaning. It is one of the harder parts to get perfect. We're talking about taking off about 15-18 screws from any acrylic top and then screwing them back. If they are too loose, then you might get leakage. If they are too tight, then you might crack the acrylic. And there are so many screws. It's likely because it's needed. If the vendor could get away with less screws they probably would. So, for this part and for me, it's all based on feel. I torque as tight as possible without putting any extra weight into besides my hand. If it doesn't move on the first normal twist, then it's done. Hope that helps
Lets keep in mind, not only were the 30 series marketed as "4k" cards, but the 40 as "8k". 😂😂😂 A 6 year old game hitting 48 fps at 4k is hardly and 8k card.
Nice look, I'm liking the heat killer the more builds i see with it, at first i thought it was god ugly.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I agree, the 30-series is not really for 4K, even considering the 3090. The 3080 is a solid 1440p (2K) card. The 40-series with the 4080 and 4090 have really unleashed 4K gaming and those are solid 4K cards. Watercool and their HK brand is on point. I will continue to use HK products and my next video will showcase the HK Noctua 420 Mora. Thanks again for watching.
I will require proof that the PCIE 4.0 port will still operate at x16 even when all 3 M.2 ports are utilized. I have this motherboard with all 3 M.2 ports populated, and I have thus far failed to have any software report anything above x8 for my GPU
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I absolutely combed the manual (several times) and verified via HWiNFO before I would make such a claim. It was a surprise to me when the manual indicated that the GPU would run at x16 irregardless of the population of the m.2 slots. This is not something I was used to with AM5, but it makde sense (to me) with AM5's higher bandwidth and connectivity. It would have been a lot easier for me to install one m.2 nvme and call it a day. In any case, I verified again that the software reports x16. Are you using a riser cable? If so, have you ensured that it's 4.0? I had to get a new riser cable for this build. Hope that helps.
I believe I have the pcie 4.0 riser cable... But maybe it's faulty?
May I ask what riser cable you used in the build?
@@vectornetworkThe problem is indeed the riser cable. It'a the original cable that came with Meshlicious, and it IS 4.0, but seems to be faulty since I get x16 when I connect the GPU to the slot directly.
Wow, I'm glad that was identified. I went through the same thing with this build. I nearly tore the whole thing apart trying to troubleshoot an issue that ended up being a faulty riser cable.
step 1 : rich
All of that for 10-15° c difference in temps + the risk of water damaging your pc?
Thanks for your comment🙏Yes and also less noise since it sits on top of a desk. It was a challenge to build and fun at the same time. Hope that helps