Lee has addressed some of these issues. Mine came with a nylon washer on that screw, if yours didn't, they are available at most hardware stores, That lip(or fence) on the steel mounting plate can be removed with a Dremel tool and cut-off wheel. Clean the sharp edges with a hobby file and use a black sharpie to color in the area cut off. The body of the feeder already has an area on both sides to put in the thin strips of metal to keep the feeder arm from contracting back into the feeder body. If you'll notice, the feed arm has a molded in "ramp" on both sides. I used a strip of 1/4 X .032 brass for the feeder arm stop. You'll need two lengths per side, one, the length of the molded in metal "retainer". The second, the length needed to stop the feeder arm from retracting back into the body with a bullet in it. It is important that you place the shorter piece in first(against the body). Now flip the body over and gently tap the stop srips into position. No glue needed to hold them in place if the right thickness of metal is used. Lastly, I first used 1500 grit sandpaper inside the bullet holder. It worked, but did not last long, and as I superglued it in place, the feeding finger needed to be replaced. I had some Plasti-Dip on hand, which is a rubberized coating used for tools who's protective sleeves need to be replaced. So I thought "why Not"! I roughed up only the surfaces that would hold the bullet with 80 grit sandpaper, and applied two coats of Plasti-Dip. I also coated the bottom of the bullet feeding casting(where the bullet sits prior to being grabbed by the fingers) My Lee bullet feeder can now be aligned properly, holds the bullets firmly, and will not retract back into the body with a bullet. Runs as well as my Mini Mr Bullet feeder. If you are using ANY type of progressive press. You will always have to tweak them. If you are unwilling to do so, A turret press is probably best for you. Sorry this post was so long, I just didn't want to leave anything out.
nice detailed video, having some problems with powder coated flat nose 9mm I was wondering if sand paper or a thin layer of rubber could help... now I know.. thanks :)
Interesting. Hopefully the engineering on these will improve. I suspect there is a huge market for a bullet feeder that doesn’t take up a separate station.
You’re not supposed to leave a bullet in the feeder after a loading session.. If you do, it creates a set in the fingers causing the issue you describe..
Cool vid, how long have you had this press? Any other tweaks or mods you recommend? I've heard some complain about the priming system, any issues there?
I've had this press since march, but I have used an ABLP prior. I noticed that they change tiny little things with each iteration. I'm partial to the old gen 1 priming system with the round trays, but I find these easier to load because they unfold square. cooking the primer feed finger for increased tension fixed the only problem I've had with that part, other than forgetting to load a primer for the next round :)
The seating has been fairly consistent at about 1.128-1.130. The only time it's gone way out of whack is when I start going too fast (shallow seating). I just run them back through the seating die after the batch is done and correct this though. When I get the new adjustable powder disk in, and a chrony, I'll probably dial in the numbers a bit more with a slightly more stout powder charge.
Thank you. Good information. I WOULD be using said info tonight. HOWEVER, my dog ate the package. (No, seriously she did. broke the feeder fingers AND the part they slide in so, have to order those two parts new from Lee. Bummer.
Lee has addressed some of these issues. Mine came with a nylon washer on that screw, if yours didn't, they are available at most hardware stores, That lip(or fence) on the steel mounting plate can be removed with a Dremel tool and cut-off wheel. Clean the sharp edges with a hobby file and use a black sharpie to color in the area cut off. The body of the feeder already has an area on both sides to put in the thin strips of metal to keep the feeder arm from contracting back into the feeder body. If you'll notice, the feed arm has a molded in "ramp" on both sides. I used a strip of 1/4 X .032 brass for the feeder arm stop. You'll need two lengths per side, one, the length of the molded in metal "retainer". The second, the length needed to stop the feeder arm from retracting back into the body with a bullet in it. It is important that you place the shorter piece in first(against the body). Now flip the body over and gently tap the stop srips into position. No glue needed to hold them in place if the right thickness of metal is used. Lastly, I first used 1500 grit sandpaper inside the bullet holder. It worked, but did not last long, and as I superglued it in place, the feeding finger needed to be replaced. I had some Plasti-Dip on hand, which is a rubberized coating used for tools who's protective sleeves need to be replaced. So I thought "why Not"! I roughed up only the surfaces that would hold the bullet with 80 grit sandpaper, and applied two coats of Plasti-Dip. I also coated the bottom of the bullet feeding casting(where the bullet sits prior to being grabbed by the fingers) My Lee bullet feeder can now be aligned properly, holds the bullets firmly, and will not retract back into the body with a bullet. Runs as well as my Mini Mr Bullet feeder. If you are using ANY type of progressive press. You will always have to tweak them. If you are unwilling to do so, A turret press is probably best for you. Sorry this post was so long, I just didn't want to leave anything out.
Just ordered the new Pro 4000 kit. Hopefully it will run smoothly.
nice detailed video, having some problems with powder coated flat nose 9mm I was wondering if sand paper or a thin layer of rubber could help... now I know.. thanks :)
Use the rubber.
Interesting. Hopefully the engineering on these will improve. I suspect there is a huge market for a bullet feeder that doesn’t take up a separate station.
You’re not supposed to leave a bullet in the feeder after a loading session.. If you do, it creates a set in the fingers causing the issue you describe..
Cool vid, how long have you had this press? Any other tweaks or mods you recommend? I've heard some complain about the priming system, any issues there?
I've had this press since march, but I have used an ABLP prior. I noticed that they change tiny little things with each iteration. I'm partial to the old gen 1 priming system with the round trays, but I find these easier to load because they unfold square. cooking the primer feed finger for increased tension fixed the only problem I've had with that part, other than forgetting to load a primer for the next round :)
Having inconsistencies with bullet seating depth?
The seating has been fairly consistent at about 1.128-1.130.
The only time it's gone way out of whack is when I start going too fast (shallow seating). I just run them back through the seating die after the batch is done and correct this though.
When I get the new adjustable powder disk in, and a chrony, I'll probably dial in the numbers a bit more with a slightly more stout powder charge.
I just listened on UA-cam and a guy said Lee dies are mandatory on this 4000 press to use the bullet feeder.
Can you verify this?
With THIS bullet feeder, yes. The reason is the bottom of the die is tapered, which fits into the fingers of the bullet feeder and opens them up.
Seems like a lot of work to make something work that should work without the extra work.
wanna pay 4x as much ?? or invest 15 minutes....
Thank you. Good information. I WOULD be using said info tonight. HOWEVER, my dog ate the package. (No, seriously she did. broke the feeder fingers AND the part they slide in so, have to order those two parts new from Lee. Bummer.
Sounds like it's just a better idea to buy a hornady bullet feeding set up.
They have their own problems too.
I gave up on this press and can’t believe how poorly it was designed.
Show some loading not just talking
go watch loading videos not just addressing common issues