@@CurryKitten that's great to hear! I was wondering if you were still on it. The weather is also not really that friendly down here in Germany ATM :) I think OpenHD is a very underrated project. I also only discovered it quite recently when I was looking for some software that would help me with my own digital FPV system. Essentially, I wanted to build something that's almost exactly the same as OpenHD. I think you can imagine how surprised and happy I was when I found out about OpenHD :) My plan is to build some custom hardware that's specifically designed to work with OpenHD and that doesn't require a Raspberry Pi. I think I'm going talk to the developers and ask them what they think about my plan and how/if they can help me customize OpenHD. The discovery of OpenHD also brought me here to your channel. Definitely subscribed!
I'm currently buying all the bits and pieces to try this. Your Open.HD playlist is really helpful and way less intimidating, since here you sum up the key aspects. Thank you a lot!
Man I'm so happy I went down the dji route. I mean this looks as a promising alternative, though not so cheap if you consider the hours spent debugging and troubleshooting. Still looks like an interesting project but the certainty to just plug your lipo and fly it's priceless.
I completely get where you are coming from. I'd have a DJI system as well if it wasn't for the large amount of cash I'd need to shell out. Open.HD is definitely one for the tinkerers at the moment. It reminds me of the early days of FPV, where I'd go out crash, take my Tricopter home in a bin bag and then figure out where the issues were. It'll get there, but there's a long road ahead for it.
The preliminary work is complex, but once it's done by one or a few people then everybody else can enjoy it for much cheaper. I for one never jumped on the DJI bandwagon because I don't like the proprietary/sealed nature and high expense of their system, so I can't wait till this can be made small and self-contained enough to strap onto a quad, even if it takes some tinkering. I wish I could help but I'm useless at software stuff, so I wait and keep my fingers crossed..
Things you can experiment is sealed containers or potting your Pi with heatsinks peeking out, I've done that for a few projects with good success. Cooled metal boxed tend to work well, just face them down from the rain or whatever and use pieces of furnace filter and a fan. Nail polish can be used instead of potting, but if you use silicone its removable. Consider using an sd card extension cable (keep it short!) protruding out of the goo. I am really enjoying this series and look forward to trying this with one of my ground RC vehicles before deploying it on a plane with 3DR as a backup. Keep it up! Oh! Sometimes you can find school play yards or running tracks that are not in use, still puddles but often better then mud/grass. Thank you!
Thanks - some good cooling ideas there. The zero tends to run ok, but a Pi4 in any given situation seems to always need some cooling. I'm still looking for a better place to try it more - surprisingly busy everywhere to say there's a lockdown in place. I might have found a longer gravel track out in the woods so a bit more investigation to do there
I watched it again andat 6:07 you had gone the soldering way and even with strong cables. What I can tell you from my usage of soldering pads on those Zeros with such cables they will get loose over time without letting you know or not alway now. Hot glueing cables to the board and a soldering joints will increase the area and strength of the hole assembly. As an alternative you can drill a hole and solder a a single header pin on and connect these with the wire which you can pull off afterwards. But I went for the hot glue wire cause it is a 5€ or 5 GBP piece that usually sticks in its use case or will be reused in that shape. The wire are really strong but good for low ressistance I guess. I had thought they would recommand shielded cables for the data lines.
Hi Wayne. I realise this video is a few months old now. But when you were talking about the USB adapter for the WiFi, I noticed that both the adapter and WiFi module had some convenient holes. You could use cable ties to make sure the adapter has no chance of shaking loose. Interesting project though.
A few months old, but something I'm hoping to pick up again soon. I did just pick up the USB adapter and can't see any useful holes on it. Did you mean the de-cased version? Should be a huge problem anyway - once it goes in my 450 sized quad I'll be making a mount or doing something to secure it. Right now it's only every going to be a fairly large model because of the extra bits and pieces needed
@@CurryKitten yes, this was when the network adapter was de-cased. You’ve got me looking at Pis and network adaptors now. I’m not sure if I’d go the whole hog and have the control link over the same signal. I don’t really like the thought of losing both simultaneously. How does OpenHD deal with failsafe? I look forward to your next video 👍🏻
I think the lack of screen printing on your Zeros is the board type you have bought, you have the version with the Bluetooth and WiFi which is redundant on the air units so everyone gets the cheaper board without them and that's the board type on the Wiki, all of my Zeros without the onboard radios have the screen printing on them. On the Camera side, if you get the Pi cam 1.3 the CSI cable is detachable and actually needs changing to use with a Zero anyway, i have found cables in 15cm, 20cm, 30cm, 50cm, 1m and 2m lengths on Aliexpress and have a few orders of the 30cm as spares as i think they are gonna be something we trash quite quickly. I have everything i need to run my setup except my cameras, so frustrating but ive had it running without a cam and setup everything else on the system including my osd, if one of the 5 cams i have on order dont arrive tomorrow ill be a grumpy bastard lol. Ill be testing mine on my 450 quad, i know and trust the craft to come back in RTH and because ill be running video and telem only and using a separate RXfor control i have no concerns about the system failing plus ill be over farmland anyway :) reading the Wiki, my understanding is that the digital system actually takes advantage of multipathing, using CP antennas wont gain you anything and could harm performance and using diversity on the ground with your antennas 90 degrees from each other gets rid f phase issues, something ive done loads of with dipoles on analogue because of the vastly superior range of linear over CP!
I must have been looking at earlier versions of the Pi Zero, because I was sure it was missing the CSI connector back then - but I see the 1.3 version does have it. I'll pick one of those up next time for cheaps, and the lack of pins will stop me plugging into the wrong one :D Frustratingly, the inbuilt wifi on the Zero WH didn't activate as expected which is why it took extra time to figure out the issues.
@@CurryKitten yes, the early versions of the zero didn't have the CSI, both 1.1 and 1.2 I believe and they added the CSI to 1.3. just to add to confusion the W version gets the tag 1.1 but is a newer board than the 1.3 without onboard radios lol. I spent so much time researching before I had the confidence to order stuff and luckily realised that there was no benefit to buying the zero with onboard radios as they don't get used and all other specs are identical on the non radio version and 3 or 4 quid cheaper. I didn't cheap out on the ground unit and went for a pi 4b, I got the 2gb version though as the 4gb ones are stupid expensive but 2gb is plenty for this use. I have a 32gb SD in it as I'll be using it for ground recording , I tried my 64gb SD which I have formatted in fat32 as I figured it will take longer to wear out the cells in it but it failed to boot and threw up a non fat partition error but I think I've realised what caused it now after getting the same issue with the 32gb initially so I'm gonna try that Again tomorrow. I've found a whole bunch of dirt cheap (like £3!!!) low power WiFi sticks that should be compatible on 2.4 which I'll amp up and ordered a number of different ones to test but for now I'm testing on the 500mw 5.8ghz taobao cards I have. If you plan on trying low power 2.4ghz and amping up, you want to find ones that are as close to 100mw/20dbm as possible, that's the maximum input power for most amps and the required input to get the maximum output power from them, I think I've found a compatible 100mw 2.4 module but I'll have to wait for it to arrive and test it.
@@CurryKitten Well i was a grumpy bastard as predicted ha ha, one of my cams arrived but none of the zero csi cables arrived grrr :( did get some of my 2.4ghz wifi dongles and they work with open hd as i thought they would, i believe they are 70mw but have a 100mw on order to test which will drive my amps to thier full 2w. I have a volantex Phoenix 2400, that thing can carry some serious weight and i have my eye on 4w 2.4ghz amps which if strapped to the tail will actually help carry more weight as its balancing it with large lipos on board that is the biggest issue on that plane :)
@@JaviRP97 I have changed my mind and not done my first build in my 450 quad and done it in a plane instead and gonna brave it on a craft I've never even flown before lol. It's essentially done but ive found that it's possible to over drive wifi sticks with the wrong settings and burned out one of my amps from inputting too much power and I'm also not sure if I trust the wifi stick anymore. I have more amps and wifi sticks but im now doing tests where I'm slowly increasing the power step by step and monitoring the temperature of the wifi stick and amp over long periods of time and then upping the power a notch and testing again. I do have 500mw 5.8ghz sticks but the range low power 2.4 sticks amped up will give is too inviting ha ha.
great video mate. look forward to the next one on this hd system. I am confused how dji can make the unit so small. i am going to look at a tear down video next on dji to see how it works
DJI developed their own silicon is the probable answer, or found one that could just encode/decode a video stream very quickly. a Pi is running a whole OS and has lots of input/output pins to deal with.... but it is cheap
@@CurryKitten wow!! That is just amazing. I really need to start learning about the open hd system. I actually have the dji setup but the max range is about 12km. In terms of distance the dji system doesn't come close to what can be achieved in range of the open hd system
Thanks for the great video! The iOS qopenhd app always lags with updates which is why there are differences in features between iOS osd and pi osd. The iOS decoder needs work which is why you get dropped frames instead of artifacts. When using inav you can easily fix your compass and home arrow by going to the osd and tap the compass widget. A menu will appear allowing you to select/toggle “inav”. For some reason aurdupilot and inav send slightly different heading data (they move the decimal) Good luck with your progress!
Super handy to know - thank you. I'd heard a little while ago about iNav being dodgy in it's mavlink packets, but I didn't know about the little workaround that was included... I thought I was going to have to wait for iNav 2.6. I'll hopefully have another test soon
Hi CurryKitten in reference to 24:00 heading "lock" on North - INAV has the issue and send heading by telemetry mavlink protocol in deg not in cdeg as mavlink specs describe. The second issue is with a compass - the calculation is simplified, if you roll or pitch on the same course, readings are increasing/decreasing. (for rover or horizontal fly multicopter is ok, but for navigation in tilt turn is a problem)
Very nice video that shows how it can get hard to configure sometimes. But nothing to worry 😉, let me see if I can address some. Regarding your phone, I would guess you have the forward video stream as "raw", that would leave de phone doing the decoding (some would do better, others would do worst and very laggy). Try setting "RTP" and you should have the same as the pi screen. Regarding antennas, this module already have one aside the rp-sma, you can just use a patch on the rp sma at ground. Regarding RSSI values, it is very hard to create a linear scale when you can have any type of card plugged in. Some setups will be much more sensitive them others and would go as high as -105dbm. Also depends heavily on the datarate you set and your neighborhood (noise). So, dbm is really the right measurement here I think. Regarding inav compass, just flash with latest beta for 2.6 and do not switch things on qopenhd app saying that yours is inav, previous releases of inav have some bugs on mavlink and those qopenhd switches were workarounds. Thanks for your content!!
Thanks Felipe - some useful stuff in there I'll check out. Some one else had mentioned the mavlink issues on iNav as well, I'd picked it up what should have been RTH mode came up as "Hold" I didn't know it went fruther than that and messed up the messages for the compass as well. Sadly I can't get 2.6 for that board yet (even as unstable/beta) but I'll update when available. I still think a more numeric 1-100 RSSI would be useful (if only as people like me have bad memories and can't remember what good/bad is in dBm) might be useful to be able to calibrate your max min values in order to scale them into a 1/100 figure. It wouldn't be completely accurate of course, but I think it's easier to get a general feel for your signal at a glance and easier to notice a large drop or something like that.
The reason for the difference of responsiveness between your rpi screen and phone screen is probably because apple (aka iPhone) doesn't work as well with a lossy h264 stream compared to android or rpi decoder. If you want a more responsive experince when playing back on your phone, you can use FPV_VR and android on the ground (Disclaimer: I am the dev of FPV_VR )
Typically, I've only tried android once and hence have a crappy old phone that's not up to the job. I have not heard of FPV_VR though, I will have a look once I can go outside again
@@CurryKitten That'd be great. Note that FPV_VR for wifibroadcast is an Open Source project on the one hand (everybody can look at the code, contribute or build the app himself) but on the play store I charge a small price of 0.99€.
Great videos. One question: is it possible to control brushed dc motors through inav? I realize most FC have ESC outputs that go directly to the brushless motors. To control brushed motors i want to use the sabertooth that allows control over pwm inputs (used it already with ardupilot successfully from pixhawn). But i want to use the FC you are mentioning and INAV. Sorry for the long question.
Yes - via whatever controller they use. It's mostly about what protocol iNav (or whatever) can send to control the motor. So I've had brushed FC's for old whoopps which have been completely controlled via BEtaflight for example. Probably a case of just saying the ESC protocol is PWM, instead of dshot or whatever and letting iNav do it's thing
Can acro mode control steering stabilization? I have a rc truck that has AVC( active vehicle control) but I loose that changing the reciever. Looking to see if inav has a similar feature
I don't know - I didn't have an awful lot of luck with iNav rover on this car and I haven't come back to it (yet) Do you lose it because it's built into the RX? You'd have to check out the iNav site for a proper explanation there. When I last checked the docs on Rover was a bit sparse, but fingers crossed they've improved a bit
@@CurryKitten yes built in, so it’s a dilemma because the stock avc is real good but can’t go more then a open football field. I want long range fpv and using the air unit 03( another reason for a fc to fully arm the dji). So I wanted cross fire as my reciever .
I had a chat with Stephen (the dev) earlier today he commented that he thought that sort of range the picture should have been perfect. There are houses down there, and I have certainly noticed that the 5.8 band is full of interference if I try and fly a whoop in the house, so perhaps that's had an impact. I know guys that are getting 25km in the air on a similar setup
@@EnglishTurbines Well, not 5G but more on 5.8 Ghz frequency, the same as most of these days fpv system and unfortunately wifi, so thats why it's susceptible to interference. As far as i know the current record was 75 km with this card system and huge helical and patch antenna.
This looks very interesting. Seen some people getting crazy long range using the asus dongle and antenna trackers. Exactly the sort of thing I'd love to build. Those wifi dongles are on amazon offer at £35 today. Worth grabbing a couple do you think or is there anything better on the horizon? Hows your testing coming along?
I don't think there's a whole lot coming out on wifi dongles - with Open.HD it's specifically about the chipset that's used which goes to whether it'll work or not. I'm just trying to find the time to start up again and get new versions of everything and document everything a bit more. So nothing's happened since that video, but it's next on my list (although he sim is taking up some time at the moment)
@@CurryKitten well if you could just drop all that please so I can steal all you openhd R&D 😂 only joking, cheers for the putting up what you've done so far, it's a big help
Steal away - that'll be the idea. i figured I'd do some blog posts on it as I'm coming back to it and don't have any real decent notes about the changes I made, so might as well do it again from scratch and write things down this time :)
@@CurryKitten looking forward to it. Didn't know about this project til I saw your vids. Looks like it has the potential to be pretty good, got lots of ideas of things to build with it too. Appreciate your videos on it 🙏
I have have confirmed the Serial0 port baud rate matches that on the FC. I have the AirPi connected to TLM1 on my FC. Using Mavlink1. The OSD doesn't work. Any suggestions? I have two telemetry radios working and can make changes using Mission Planner should I need to to the FC. But with there not much in the way of changes to make I'm getting a bit despondent trying to get this to work.
Any advancements in your OpenHD? for Video capture you can use a HDMI splitter and one of those cheap USB HDMI capture cards if you want to get the osd in the recording. I haven't been able to get it to work by plugging into the two HDMI outputs on the Pi4b so far as OpenHD will display the FPV feed on one and System messages on the other output, possibly the same issue as your having with HDMI and your DSI screen? i need to ask the devs if there is a way around it but using a splitter to double one HDMI to 2 has worked for me and i can view the FPV feed on a HDMI monitor or my goggles while capturing on a laptop with the OSD recorded.
Are there cheap HDMI to USB capture devices out there now, I have an Elgato for the desktop but that was pricy! I haven't touched it since lockdown (but at least it looks like light at the end of the tunnel is coming) so I'll be back and update and see where I am once I can get out (I have the f450 ready to test inav on so I can move that to Open.HD as well)
I don't think this will ever be just a simple box that you connect. Perhaps it might evolve to something more akin to the APM/PixHawk stuff where it's a piece of HW but still needs a reasonable amount of setup. One of the things they have talked about - which I think would be very useful is the talk of shields/hats - essentially a little board that you could put you Pi/Wifi card onto without any soldering to make the installation easier. It's still moving quite fast at the moment with new pieces of hardware getting ports with the possibility of bringing latency down quite a bit
Yes - the reason I didn't use my FatSharks in this video is because I have Dom v3's which are only 640x480, so it seemed a bit pointless to connect them. But all FatSharks have HDMI in, so you can use them. In part 4 I used a pair of 1080p goggles. As far as the mouse goes, yes - BT or wired straight into the Pi will be fine, although on the field there's little to no reason to need to use it.
@@CurryKitten I have HDO2s and am looking at a Rock PI for the air side because it has a better processor than the Pi Zero. Hoping in 9 months things have improved with OpenHD!
@@CurryKitten No, all this raspberry pi stuff is a bit beyond my technical skill level. And the new ar wing is a bit expensive at the moment (though in 6 months it'll probably be half the price) but i have a cheaper wing on the way (my first) and some spare analog fpv parts I'll stick in it. From looking at painless's video, on the new ar wing pro, it has a large bay for putting parts in so it could be perfect 👍
Thinking ahead to installing in fixed wing, I've targetted my Mini Talon in order to try a few different things. 1 is getting telemetry over from my Vector C, the other is potentially using the HDMI feed from my HD camera into an adapter into the air pi.... but that's some way in the future
Compass calibration was done, but it turned out there was a bug in iNav sending correctly formatted mavlink packets.. there was actually a workaround to enable in Open.HD but I hadn't spotted it
Most interesting - I didn't know you could run a Pi virtual image..until now :D Maybe is my answer, followed by I don't know, best check with the Telegram group for a proper answer. You should most definitely be able to run the image, but you won't have access to the GPIO pins, so slightly more limited than normal. My only worry point is that the Pi image is specifically based around running a few specific wireless chipsets and I don't know is the host machine presenting those to your virtual machine might screw anything up there
Using Open.HD? If the wifi dongle is supported it'll just use it... although you can also still get it to run the on-board wifi as a hotspot so you can ssh in if needed to check it out
No it was working ok - you can see the CPU % it's running at in the DVR, and while it's much higher than the Pi4 ground station, it's not maxing out. The Open.HD guys said that potentially new features probably wouldn't be going into the zero's image though as it is running about as much as it can handle.... but that said it seems ok. I do have another Pi4 for an alternative "air" Pi, but I didn't have room to try it on this car
@@CurryKitten hmmm. Someone really needs to make a tiny breakout board for the pi4 compute module so we can easily solder that smaller (but still fast) board.
Sorry missed the compute comment. The Pi 4 compute module would be very nice given it's size, but yeah, without a board to access a bunch of the IO pins you are a bit screwed. They do support the Pi3+ compute, so maybe a solution will happen for the 4.... or maybe other boards will take over such as the Jetson Nano
Haha. I mostly haven't got the DJI FPV system because I can't afford it (woe is me etc) nothing against them per se and everything about it seems really impressive. But I do think we need an open source implementation of something like this... .and I still don't see why you need to register you DJI goggles before they'll work !? Right now about 100ms, the devs are working on the Jetson Nano implementation at the moment which could bring this down to 40-50ms. Once again it doesn't compare, but new hardware comes out and they can port over and take advantage.
CurryKitten the latency won't matter in a plane/wing which is where this system might shine. Regarding having to activate the product, I guess it's all to do with warranty, when one of my Air Units went wrong I contacted DJI through their app iirc, and to cut a long story short because I'd contacted them within 14 days of activity it, they swapped it without question, even sending a second courier to pick up a £1.20 cable, at their cost, which I had forgotten to put in the box. You have to fill in a form to get your warranty on your TV and post it off (or you did last time I bought one) and unlock it by entering your postcode if it's a Freeview one, so I don't get the hate for having to unlock DJI stuff before it works, it's not like they can remotely turn you off becuase they don't like where you're flying, and it'd only take one angry UA-camr to get locked out the system by the app and nobody else will be plugging in their kit into the PC again. There is a bug in the modern Air Units firmware that cause in the recording to stop at random intervals, it doesn't happen in the older firmware so I downgraded it while we're sat at home doing nowt, even everybody's favourite FRSky remove firmware to stop you downgrading so I just really don't get the hate for DJI. Regarding cost, you're a UA-cam influencer, aren't you supposed to be a millionaire? ;)
I don't hate DJI, I just find some of the reasons for some things questionable. You don't need to fill out a warranty card on a TV, there's a legal obligation to give you a 2 year warranty under EU law. Also you TV will still turn on and work despite you not registering it with them :) My first quad was a F450 with a Naza and I own a Mavic Air, so it's not like I'm "boo down with DJI". I just don't want a single option for HD video. My wife says I'm not allowed to call myself an "influencer", "UA-cam creator", "Indie games developer" because it sounds "too wanky". I think she's keen on "work-shy layabout" certainly based on the amount (mainly not) or money I make :D
CurryKitten pretty much everything we buy soon won't work until activated, I bet the phone in your video wouldn't work fully until you did some form of unlock process on it.
Personally, I prefer to spend my money on a DJI system than my time on Open.HD system. After all... time is more important than money. You can always earn more money. But can you buy more time...?
Absolutely - and if getting out and flying in HD with minimum hassle then DJI is going to be your answer. Fo me, personally, I really enjoy the tinkering and looking at new projects and ideas - so time spent on this is fun.
I'm with you here. DJI looks great (I'd have one if it wasn't so much) but I've never understood why a pair of goggles needs to be "activated" via an account before they'll work... seems odd to say the least
@@CurryKitten I don’t understand that either so I just used one of my secondary emails to register and now I fly 3-4 miles distance with 50Mbps and 30ms latency. What I’m trying to say is that after trying the Open.HD system, I came to the conclusion that although it looks like a promising project, the DJI FPV system delivers what any FPV pilot would wish for: Crystal clear, high quality HD FPV video feed. My job doesn’t allow me a lot of free time to have. So time is really important for me. I understand that some in the hobby have the free time to test, build and explore new staff but I prefer to spend few more quids and use the final, polished products. Particularly with my quadcopter that carries GoPro!
I don't think there's a right way and a wrong way... or perhaps we should say there is: If you are getting out and using your time as you want to and having fun, then you are doing it right. Carry on doing it :)
I guess you're still in lockdown and no real opportunities for further progress but maybe you wanna do a shorter update just talking straight, where your thoughts and ideas have gone to and what to expect next cause this is not a kind of build series but more a kind of explore and discover adventure. The more you talk about the system the higher the attention gets. And I have another inav and camera related topic beyond open HD. You had done somd gimbal or pan and tilt servo mount stuff years before back when the feiyu mini 3d gimbal was still available. What I was looking for is a soft and smooth moving gimbal ripped out of a real one and connected to an iNAV board cause the usual 2 servo solutions cost 25 and more € and do not offer anything beyond, no stabilisation nor smooth movements. Considering that you can get a 3 axis feiyu go pro gimbal wouldn't it make more sense to rip such gimbal out of the product to mount it on a plane and replace the knob control in the grip by FC or controls . I have not found anyone digging into that way, only 2 axis ebay gimbals that costs already 40€ or more while the feiyu or others start slightly above. If you search on ebay de for this item FeiyuTech SPG Plus you can get it for 50€ with a grip and joystick control which should mean that those 4 or 5 microswitches or cables should be controlable by the fc and 2 sliders. I am simply looking for a stabilized footage and a smooth pan tilt movement Zhiyun also has to offer different gimbals around the 50€ - 75€ price point too.
Gimbal on a plane is not a new thing - here's a great video from 5 years ago from a friend who stuck a 3-axis on his My Twin Dream ua-cam.com/video/88lOzkL5KOU/v-deo.html (although it took a long time to get rid of all the issues) It's not quite as simple as connecting up to offset the movement and letting iNav do it as the board in the gimbals also needs to drive the motors. What he did (and what I'd still suggest) is that you control the gimbal outside of any flight controller (unless you can forward on a PWM signal from somewhere on the board - although it's easier to do it directly from the radio) in that way you'd switch modes on the gimbal and manually pan/tilt/roll as you needed to.
@@CurryKitten Thanks a lot for your explanation and I went more or less the way and got a dji air unit gimbal of the shelve with its own stabilisation cause the "usual" action cam gimbals are pretty heavy and hard to fully integrate cause they were never supposed to used that way. They want a BT connection to the phone and its app and the only chance to bypass that would have been a bt remote controlled by channels / servos.
@@CurryKitten Thanks a lot for your explanation and I went more or less the way and got a dji air unit gimbal of the shelve with its own stabilisation cause the "usual" action cam gimbals are pretty heavy and hard to fully integrate cause they were never supposed to used that way. They want a BT connection to the phone and its app and the only chance to bypass that would have been a bt remote controlled by channels / servos. But finally I found a gimbal manufacturer in france that offers a ton of different kind of gimbals and boards for about 100 - 150€ for this purpose and that seems to work out, cause lock down is still there and our activities too limited to visit the club where only 5 are allowed to be at the same time. One final question: have you been working on the openHD system or do you have further plans beyond the rover like stuff in the past ?
![☀ FPV АВТО - ставим полётный контроллер на INAV [FPV RC Car | INAV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Dzqaryw2SjY/mqdefault.jpg)
Would love an update of this getting it in the air! This project is getting a lot more popular.
More updates to come soon. I've not done anything during the extended lockdown, but about to give this project much more attention
Look forward to seeing more of this OpenHD stuff!
Me too. Finally we're allowed out in the UK - so obviously it's now blowing a gale and raining. But I hope to get back to Open.HD soon
@@CurryKitten that's great to hear!
I was wondering if you were still on it. The weather is also not really that friendly down here in Germany ATM :)
I think OpenHD is a very underrated project. I also only discovered it quite recently when I was looking for some software that would help me with my own digital FPV system. Essentially, I wanted to build something that's almost exactly the same as OpenHD. I think you can imagine how surprised and happy I was when I found out about OpenHD :)
My plan is to build some custom hardware that's specifically designed to work with OpenHD and that doesn't require a Raspberry Pi. I think I'm going talk to the developers and ask them what they think about my plan and how/if they can help me customize OpenHD.
The discovery of OpenHD also brought me here to your channel. Definitely subscribed!
Really excited for more!
I'm currently buying all the bits and pieces to try this. Your Open.HD playlist is really helpful and way less intimidating, since here you sum up the key aspects. Thank you a lot!
Cool - glad it was helpful, have fun. The telegram group is always there as well for any specific issues
Man I'm so happy I went down the dji route.
I mean this looks as a promising alternative, though not so cheap if you consider the hours spent debugging and troubleshooting.
Still looks like an interesting project but the certainty to just plug your lipo and fly it's priceless.
I completely get where you are coming from. I'd have a DJI system as well if it wasn't for the large amount of cash I'd need to shell out. Open.HD is definitely one for the tinkerers at the moment. It reminds me of the early days of FPV, where I'd go out crash, take my Tricopter home in a bin bag and then figure out where the issues were. It'll get there, but there's a long road ahead for it.
The preliminary work is complex, but once it's done by one or a few people then everybody else can enjoy it for much cheaper. I for one never jumped on the DJI bandwagon because I don't like the proprietary/sealed nature and high expense of their system, so I can't wait till this can be made small and self-contained enough to strap onto a quad, even if it takes some tinkering. I wish I could help but I'm useless at software stuff, so I wait and keep my fingers crossed..
Things you can experiment is sealed containers or potting your Pi with heatsinks peeking out, I've done that for a few projects with good success. Cooled metal boxed tend to work well, just face them down from the rain or whatever and use pieces of furnace filter and a fan. Nail polish can be used instead of potting, but if you use silicone its removable. Consider using an sd card extension cable (keep it short!) protruding out of the goo. I am really enjoying this series and look forward to trying this with one of my ground RC vehicles before deploying it on a plane with 3DR as a backup. Keep it up! Oh! Sometimes you can find school play yards or running tracks that are not in use, still puddles but often better then mud/grass. Thank you!
Thanks - some good cooling ideas there. The zero tends to run ok, but a Pi4 in any given situation seems to always need some cooling. I'm still looking for a better place to try it more - surprisingly busy everywhere to say there's a lockdown in place. I might have found a longer gravel track out in the woods so a bit more investigation to do there
Pretty interesting, Wayne! The image really looks fantastic! 😃
Looking forward to the next steps!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks MC :)
I watched it again andat 6:07 you had gone the soldering way and even with strong cables. What I can tell you from my usage of soldering pads on those Zeros with such cables they will get loose over time without letting you know or not alway now. Hot glueing cables to the board and a soldering joints will increase the area and strength of the hole assembly. As an alternative you can drill a hole and solder a a single header pin on and connect these with the wire which you can pull off afterwards. But I went for the hot glue wire cause it is a 5€ or 5 GBP piece that usually sticks in its use case or will be reused in that shape. The wire are really strong but good for low ressistance I guess. I had thought they would recommand shielded cables for the data lines.
Great work, thanks for showing full details, very interesting.
No worries - had a long gap, but hope to be returning to this project very soon
Hi Wayne. I realise this video is a few months old now. But when you were talking about the USB adapter for the WiFi, I noticed that both the adapter and WiFi module had some convenient holes. You could use cable ties to make sure the adapter has no chance of shaking loose.
Interesting project though.
A few months old, but something I'm hoping to pick up again soon. I did just pick up the USB adapter and can't see any useful holes on it. Did you mean the de-cased version? Should be a huge problem anyway - once it goes in my 450 sized quad I'll be making a mount or doing something to secure it. Right now it's only every going to be a fairly large model because of the extra bits and pieces needed
@@CurryKitten yes, this was when the network adapter was de-cased.
You’ve got me looking at Pis and network adaptors now. I’m not sure if I’d go the whole hog and have the control link over the same signal. I don’t really like the thought of losing both simultaneously. How does OpenHD deal with failsafe?
I look forward to your next video 👍🏻
I think the lack of screen printing on your Zeros is the board type you have bought, you have the version with the Bluetooth and WiFi which is redundant on the air units so everyone gets the cheaper board without them and that's the board type on the Wiki, all of my Zeros without the onboard radios have the screen printing on them.
On the Camera side, if you get the Pi cam 1.3 the CSI cable is detachable and actually needs changing to use with a Zero anyway, i have found cables in 15cm, 20cm, 30cm, 50cm, 1m and 2m lengths on Aliexpress and have a few orders of the 30cm as spares as i think they are gonna be something we trash quite quickly.
I have everything i need to run my setup except my cameras, so frustrating but ive had it running without a cam and setup everything else on the system including my osd, if one of the 5 cams i have on order dont arrive tomorrow ill be a grumpy bastard lol.
Ill be testing mine on my 450 quad, i know and trust the craft to come back in RTH and because ill be running video and telem only and using a separate RXfor control i have no concerns about the system failing plus ill be over farmland anyway :)
reading the Wiki, my understanding is that the digital system actually takes advantage of multipathing, using CP antennas wont gain you anything and could harm performance and using diversity on the ground with your antennas 90 degrees from each other gets rid f phase issues, something ive done loads of with dipoles on analogue because of the vastly superior range of linear over CP!
I must have been looking at earlier versions of the Pi Zero, because I was sure it was missing the CSI connector back then - but I see the 1.3 version does have it. I'll pick one of those up next time for cheaps, and the lack of pins will stop me plugging into the wrong one :D Frustratingly, the inbuilt wifi on the Zero WH didn't activate as expected which is why it took extra time to figure out the issues.
@@CurryKitten yes, the early versions of the zero didn't have the CSI, both 1.1 and 1.2 I believe and they added the CSI to 1.3.
just to add to confusion the W version gets the tag 1.1 but is a newer board than the 1.3 without onboard radios lol.
I spent so much time researching before I had the confidence to order stuff and luckily realised that there was no benefit to buying the zero with onboard radios as they don't get used and all other specs are identical on the non radio version and 3 or 4 quid cheaper.
I didn't cheap out on the ground unit and went for a pi 4b, I got the 2gb version though as the 4gb ones are stupid expensive but 2gb is plenty for this use.
I have a 32gb SD in it as I'll be using it for ground recording , I tried my 64gb SD which I have formatted in fat32 as I figured it will take longer to wear out the cells in it but it failed to boot and threw up a non fat partition error but I think I've realised what caused it now after getting the same issue with the 32gb initially so I'm gonna try that Again tomorrow.
I've found a whole bunch of dirt cheap (like £3!!!) low power WiFi sticks that should be compatible on 2.4 which I'll amp up and ordered a number of different ones to test but for now I'm testing on the 500mw 5.8ghz taobao cards I have.
If you plan on trying low power 2.4ghz and amping up, you want to find ones that are as close to 100mw/20dbm as possible, that's the maximum input power for most amps and the required input to get the maximum output power from them, I think I've found a compatible 100mw 2.4 module but I'll have to wait for it to arrive and test it.
@@CurryKitten Well i was a grumpy bastard as predicted ha ha, one of my cams arrived but none of the zero csi cables arrived grrr :(
did get some of my 2.4ghz wifi dongles and they work with open hd as i thought they would, i believe they are 70mw but have a 100mw on order to test which will drive my amps to thier full 2w.
I have a volantex Phoenix 2400, that thing can carry some serious weight and i have my eye on 4w 2.4ghz amps which if strapped to the tail will actually help carry more weight as its balancing it with large lipos on board that is the biggest issue on that plane :)
@@stevefox3763 Keep us updated on your progress, mate! You are giving good info. Good luck 👍
@@JaviRP97 I have changed my mind and not done my first build in my 450 quad and done it in a plane instead and gonna brave it on a craft I've never even flown before lol.
It's essentially done but ive found that it's possible to over drive wifi sticks with the wrong settings and burned out one of my amps from inputting too much power and I'm also not sure if I trust the wifi stick anymore.
I have more amps and wifi sticks but im now doing tests where I'm slowly increasing the power step by step and monitoring the temperature of the wifi stick and amp over long periods of time and then upping the power a notch and testing again.
I do have 500mw 5.8ghz sticks but the range low power 2.4 sticks amped up will give is too inviting ha ha.
Great work mate. Looking forward to the next instalment
Thanks lurgy, I only just caught your rover vid. Looks like you had more fun than me :D
Yes! Another OpenHD update! Hurrah!!
great video mate. look forward to the next one on this hd system. I am confused how dji can make the unit so small. i am going to look at a tear down video next on dji to see how it works
DJI developed their own silicon is the probable answer, or found one that could just encode/decode a video stream very quickly. a Pi is running a whole OS and has lots of input/output pins to deal with.... but it is cheap
Very interesting project. Really glad i found your videos on open HD. Im interesred in what the max range is for a flying vehicle
It's pretty long - people are using multiple wifi dongles in diversity, but over 20km in fixed wing is what you are looking at
@@CurryKitten wow!! That is just amazing. I really need to start learning about the open hd system. I actually have the dji setup but the max range is about 12km. In terms of distance the dji system doesn't come close to what can be achieved in range of the open hd system
Thanks for the great video!
The iOS qopenhd app always lags with updates which is why there are differences in features between iOS osd and pi osd.
The iOS decoder needs work which is why you get dropped frames instead of artifacts.
When using inav you can easily fix your compass and home arrow by going to the osd and tap the compass widget. A menu will appear allowing you to select/toggle “inav”. For some reason aurdupilot and inav send slightly different heading data (they move the decimal)
Good luck with your progress!
Super handy to know - thank you. I'd heard a little while ago about iNav being dodgy in it's mavlink packets, but I didn't know about the little workaround that was included... I thought I was going to have to wait for iNav 2.6. I'll hopefully have another test soon
Hi CurryKitten in reference to 24:00 heading "lock" on North - INAV has the issue and send heading by telemetry mavlink protocol in deg not in cdeg as mavlink specs describe. The second issue is with a compass - the calculation is simplified, if you roll or pitch on the same course, readings are increasing/decreasing. (for rover or horizontal fly multicopter is ok, but for navigation in tilt turn is a problem)
Very nice video that shows how it can get hard to configure sometimes. But nothing to worry 😉, let me see if I can address some.
Regarding your phone, I would guess you have the forward video stream as "raw", that would leave de phone doing the decoding (some would do better, others would do worst and very laggy). Try setting "RTP" and you should have the same as the pi screen.
Regarding antennas, this module already have one aside the rp-sma, you can just use a patch on the rp sma at ground. Regarding RSSI values, it is very hard to create a linear scale when you can have any type of card plugged in. Some setups will be much more sensitive them others and would go as high as -105dbm. Also depends heavily on the datarate you set and your neighborhood (noise). So, dbm is really the right measurement here I think.
Regarding inav compass, just flash with latest beta for 2.6 and do not switch things on qopenhd app saying that yours is inav, previous releases of inav have some bugs on mavlink and those qopenhd switches were workarounds.
Thanks for your content!!
Thanks Felipe - some useful stuff in there I'll check out. Some one else had mentioned the mavlink issues on iNav as well, I'd picked it up what should have been RTH mode came up as "Hold" I didn't know it went fruther than that and messed up the messages for the compass as well. Sadly I can't get 2.6 for that board yet (even as unstable/beta) but I'll update when available. I still think a more numeric 1-100 RSSI would be useful (if only as people like me have bad memories and can't remember what good/bad is in dBm) might be useful to be able to calibrate your max min values in order to scale them into a 1/100 figure. It wouldn't be completely accurate of course, but I think it's easier to get a general feel for your signal at a glance and easier to notice a large drop or something like that.
very interesting, looking forward to the next one :-)
"i can't hit people, they might get angry"
Yeah - they always take a dim view of it when I hit them :D
The reason for the difference of responsiveness between your rpi screen and phone screen is probably because apple (aka iPhone) doesn't work as well with a lossy h264 stream compared to android or rpi decoder. If you want a more responsive experince when playing back on your phone, you can use FPV_VR and android on the ground (Disclaimer: I am the dev of FPV_VR )
Typically, I've only tried android once and hence have a crappy old phone that's not up to the job. I have not heard of FPV_VR though, I will have a look once I can go outside again
@@CurryKitten That'd be great. Note that FPV_VR for wifibroadcast is an Open Source project on the one hand (everybody can look at the code, contribute or build the app himself) but on the play store I charge a small price of 0.99€.
Great project
I'm see a big future for this digital fpv
I'm need make this kkkkkkkk
Great videos. One question: is it possible to control brushed dc motors through inav? I realize most FC have ESC outputs that go directly to the brushless motors. To control brushed motors i want to use the sabertooth that allows control over pwm inputs (used it already with ardupilot successfully from pixhawn). But i want to use the FC you are mentioning and INAV.
Sorry for the long question.
Yes - via whatever controller they use. It's mostly about what protocol iNav (or whatever) can send to control the motor. So I've had brushed FC's for old whoopps which have been completely controlled via BEtaflight for example. Probably a case of just saying the ESC protocol is PWM, instead of dshot or whatever and letting iNav do it's thing
Can acro mode control steering stabilization? I have a rc truck that has AVC( active vehicle control) but I loose that changing the reciever. Looking to see if inav has a similar feature
I don't know - I didn't have an awful lot of luck with iNav rover on this car and I haven't come back to it (yet) Do you lose it because it's built into the RX? You'd have to check out the iNav site for a proper explanation there. When I last checked the docs on Rover was a bit sparse, but fingers crossed they've improved a bit
@@CurryKitten yes built in, so it’s a dilemma because the stock avc is real good but can’t go more then a open football field. I want long range fpv and using the air unit 03( another reason for a fc to fully arm the dji). So I wanted cross fire as my reciever .
Interesting project Wayne... Impressive image quality, shame about the range...
I had a chat with Stephen (the dev) earlier today he commented that he thought that sort of range the picture should have been perfect. There are houses down there, and I have certainly noticed that the 5.8 band is full of interference if I try and fly a whoop in the house, so perhaps that's had an impact. I know guys that are getting 25km in the air on a similar setup
@@CurryKitten So it's running on 5G..?. What frequency specifically?...Do you imagine having it in a FW anytime soon...?
@@EnglishTurbines Well, not 5G but more on 5.8 Ghz frequency, the same as most of these days fpv system and unfortunately wifi, so thats why it's susceptible to interference. As far as i know the current record was 75 km with this card system and huge helical and patch antenna.
This looks very interesting. Seen some people getting crazy long range using the asus dongle and antenna trackers. Exactly the sort of thing I'd love to build. Those wifi dongles are on amazon offer at £35 today. Worth grabbing a couple do you think or is there anything better on the horizon? Hows your testing coming along?
I don't think there's a whole lot coming out on wifi dongles - with Open.HD it's specifically about the chipset that's used which goes to whether it'll work or not. I'm just trying to find the time to start up again and get new versions of everything and document everything a bit more. So nothing's happened since that video, but it's next on my list (although he sim is taking up some time at the moment)
@@CurryKitten well if you could just drop all that please so I can steal all you openhd R&D 😂 only joking, cheers for the putting up what you've done so far, it's a big help
Steal away - that'll be the idea. i figured I'd do some blog posts on it as I'm coming back to it and don't have any real decent notes about the changes I made, so might as well do it again from scratch and write things down this time :)
@@CurryKitten looking forward to it. Didn't know about this project til I saw your vids. Looks like it has the potential to be pretty good, got lots of ideas of things to build with it too. Appreciate your videos on it 🙏
Would like this system miniaturized enough to conveniently put into 3"..5" freestyle quads.
Me too - hopefully, it's coming
I have have confirmed the Serial0 port baud rate matches that on the FC. I have the AirPi connected to TLM1 on my FC. Using Mavlink1. The OSD doesn't work. Any suggestions? I have two telemetry radios working and can make changes using Mission Planner should I need to to the FC. But with there not much in the way of changes to make I'm getting a bit despondent trying to get this to work.
Any advancements in your OpenHD? for Video capture you can use a HDMI splitter and one of those cheap USB HDMI capture cards if you want to get the osd in the recording.
I haven't been able to get it to work by plugging into the two HDMI outputs on the Pi4b so far as OpenHD will display the FPV feed on one and System messages on the other output, possibly the same issue as your having with HDMI and your DSI screen?
i need to ask the devs if there is a way around it but using a splitter to double one HDMI to 2 has worked for me and i can view the FPV feed on a HDMI monitor or my goggles while capturing on a laptop with the OSD recorded.
Are there cheap HDMI to USB capture devices out there now, I have an Elgato for the desktop but that was pricy! I haven't touched it since lockdown (but at least it looks like light at the end of the tunnel is coming) so I'll be back and update and see where I am once I can get out (I have the f450 ready to test inav on so I can move that to Open.HD as well)
Impressive software skills as an IT guy :) do you think one day a product will be the end result?
I don't think this will ever be just a simple box that you connect. Perhaps it might evolve to something more akin to the APM/PixHawk stuff where it's a piece of HW but still needs a reasonable amount of setup. One of the things they have talked about - which I think would be very useful is the talk of shields/hats - essentially a little board that you could put you Pi/Wifi card onto without any soldering to make the installation easier. It's still moving quite fast at the moment with new pieces of hardware getting ports with the possibility of bringing latency down quite a bit
Can you connect say fatsharks directly to the pi instead of the 7inch screen and control via a Bluetooth mouse?
Yes - the reason I didn't use my FatSharks in this video is because I have Dom v3's which are only 640x480, so it seemed a bit pointless to connect them. But all FatSharks have HDMI in, so you can use them. In part 4 I used a pair of 1080p goggles. As far as the mouse goes, yes - BT or wired straight into the Pi will be fine, although on the field there's little to no reason to need to use it.
@@CurryKitten I have HDO2s and am looking at a Rock PI for the air side because it has a better processor than the Pi Zero. Hoping in 9 months things have improved with OpenHD!
All those parts should go nicely in the new AR wing Pro......
Is that the route you are going Richard ?
@@CurryKitten No, all this raspberry pi stuff is a bit beyond my technical skill level. And the new ar wing is a bit expensive at the moment (though in 6 months it'll probably be half the price) but i have a cheaper wing on the way (my first) and some spare analog fpv parts I'll stick in it. From looking at painless's video, on the new ar wing pro, it has a large bay for putting parts in so it could be perfect 👍
Thinking ahead to installing in fixed wing, I've targetted my Mini Talon in order to try a few different things. 1 is getting telemetry over from my Vector C, the other is potentially using the HDMI feed from my HD camera into an adapter into the air pi.... but that's some way in the future
for home point i think required compass calibration
Compass calibration was done, but it turned out there was a bug in iNav sending correctly formatted mavlink packets.. there was actually a workaround to enable in Open.HD but I hadn't spotted it
@@CurryKitten do you running inav 3.0 , if not try with it its just released maybe they fixed it in latest release
I wasn't but I will be updating soon. The issue was fixed a little while ago, prior to the release of 3.0 - but I haven't touched it in a while.
Noob question....sorry...............can we use virtual box installed with openhd image instead of ground pi ??
Most interesting - I didn't know you could run a Pi virtual image..until now :D Maybe is my answer, followed by I don't know, best check with the Telegram group for a proper answer. You should most definitely be able to run the image, but you won't have access to the GPIO pins, so slightly more limited than normal. My only worry point is that the Pi image is specifically based around running a few specific wireless chipsets and I don't know is the host machine presenting those to your virtual machine might screw anything up there
That looks great, well done. Any idea what the latency is like?
Tricky to say on that car as it has a really different feel than a quad, but should be around 100ms
@@CurryKitten 115ms with Pi to 62 ms with Jetson Nano.
Now I have been trying to figure out with my pi3b how to get it to connect to wifi using the USB wifi ant and not the on-board wifi ant
Using Open.HD? If the wifi dongle is supported it'll just use it... although you can also still get it to run the on-board wifi as a hotspot so you can ssh in if needed to check it out
Hi, good job bro 😉 👍
Thanks :)
Any performance issues with the Pi Zero? Was wondering if I need to consider messing with the Pi 4 compute module for OpenHD to work properly.
No it was working ok - you can see the CPU % it's running at in the DVR, and while it's much higher than the Pi4 ground station, it's not maxing out. The Open.HD guys said that potentially new features probably wouldn't be going into the zero's image though as it is running about as much as it can handle.... but that said it seems ok. I do have another Pi4 for an alternative "air" Pi, but I didn't have room to try it on this car
@@CurryKitten hmmm. Someone really needs to make a tiny breakout board for the pi4 compute module so we can easily solder that smaller (but still fast) board.
Sorry missed the compute comment. The Pi 4 compute module would be very nice given it's size, but yeah, without a board to access a bunch of the IO pins you are a bit screwed. They do support the Pi3+ compute, so maybe a solution will happen for the 4.... or maybe other boards will take over such as the Jetson Nano
For the air side I recommend a pi3a+. You can get more data through (better picture)
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That's a lot of work just to avoid DJI, how is latency?
Haha. I mostly haven't got the DJI FPV system because I can't afford it (woe is me etc) nothing against them per se and everything about it seems really impressive. But I do think we need an open source implementation of something like this... .and I still don't see why you need to register you DJI goggles before they'll work !? Right now about 100ms, the devs are working on the Jetson Nano implementation at the moment which could bring this down to 40-50ms. Once again it doesn't compare, but new hardware comes out and they can port over and take advantage.
CurryKitten the latency won't matter in a plane/wing which is where this system might shine. Regarding having to activate the product, I guess it's all to do with warranty, when one of my Air Units went wrong I contacted DJI through their app iirc, and to cut a long story short because I'd contacted them within 14 days of activity it, they swapped it without question, even sending a second courier to pick up a £1.20 cable, at their cost, which I had forgotten to put in the box.
You have to fill in a form to get your warranty on your TV and post it off (or you did last time I bought one) and unlock it by entering your postcode if it's a Freeview one, so I don't get the hate for having to unlock DJI stuff before it works, it's not like they can remotely turn you off becuase they don't like where you're flying, and it'd only take one angry UA-camr to get locked out the system by the app and nobody else will be plugging in their kit into the PC again.
There is a bug in the modern Air Units firmware that cause in the recording to stop at random intervals, it doesn't happen in the older firmware so I downgraded it while we're sat at home doing nowt, even everybody's favourite FRSky remove firmware to stop you downgrading so I just really don't get the hate for DJI.
Regarding cost, you're a UA-cam influencer, aren't you supposed to be a millionaire? ;)
I don't hate DJI, I just find some of the reasons for some things questionable. You don't need to fill out a warranty card on a TV, there's a legal obligation to give you a 2 year warranty under EU law. Also you TV will still turn on and work despite you not registering it with them :) My first quad was a F450 with a Naza and I own a Mavic Air, so it's not like I'm "boo down with DJI". I just don't want a single option for HD video. My wife says I'm not allowed to call myself an "influencer", "UA-cam creator", "Indie games developer" because it sounds "too wanky". I think she's keen on "work-shy layabout" certainly based on the amount (mainly not) or money I make :D
CurryKitten pretty much everything we buy soon won't work until activated, I bet the phone in your video wouldn't work fully until you did some form of unlock process on it.
Personally, I prefer to spend my money on a DJI system than my time on Open.HD system.
After all... time is more important than money.
You can always earn more money.
But can you buy more time...?
How about freedom? You can always buy more proprietary stuff but would it let you do anything the manufacturer didn't fancy you doing?
Absolutely - and if getting out and flying in HD with minimum hassle then DJI is going to be your answer. Fo me, personally, I really enjoy the tinkering and looking at new projects and ideas - so time spent on this is fun.
I'm with you here. DJI looks great (I'd have one if it wasn't so much) but I've never understood why a pair of goggles needs to be "activated" via an account before they'll work... seems odd to say the least
@@CurryKitten I don’t understand that either so I just used one of my secondary emails to register and now I fly 3-4 miles distance with 50Mbps and 30ms latency.
What I’m trying to say is that after trying the Open.HD system, I came to the conclusion that although it looks like a promising project, the DJI FPV system delivers what any FPV pilot would wish for: Crystal clear, high quality HD FPV video feed.
My job doesn’t allow me a lot of free time to have. So time is really important for me.
I understand that some in the hobby have the free time to test, build and explore new staff but I prefer to spend few more quids and use the final, polished products. Particularly with my quadcopter that carries GoPro!
I don't think there's a right way and a wrong way... or perhaps we should say there is: If you are getting out and using your time as you want to and having fun, then you are doing it right. Carry on doing it :)
I guess you're still in lockdown and no real opportunities for further progress but maybe you wanna do a shorter update just talking straight, where your thoughts and ideas have gone to and what to expect next cause this is not a kind of build series but more a kind of explore and discover adventure.
The more you talk about the system the higher the attention gets.
And I have another inav and camera related topic beyond open HD.
You had done somd gimbal or pan and tilt servo mount stuff years before back when the feiyu mini 3d gimbal was still available.
What I was looking for is a soft and smooth moving gimbal ripped out of a real one and connected to an iNAV board cause the usual 2 servo solutions cost 25 and more € and do not offer anything beyond, no stabilisation nor smooth movements.
Considering that you can get a 3 axis feiyu go pro gimbal wouldn't it make more sense to rip such gimbal out of the product to mount it on a plane and replace the knob control in the grip by FC or controls .
I have not found anyone digging into that way, only 2 axis ebay gimbals that costs already 40€ or more while the feiyu or others start slightly above. If you search on ebay de for this item FeiyuTech SPG Plus you can get it for 50€ with a grip and joystick control which should mean that those 4 or 5 microswitches or cables should be controlable by the fc and 2 sliders.
I am simply looking for a stabilized footage and a smooth pan tilt movement
Zhiyun also has to offer different gimbals around the 50€ - 75€ price point too.
Gimbal on a plane is not a new thing - here's a great video from 5 years ago from a friend who stuck a 3-axis on his My Twin Dream ua-cam.com/video/88lOzkL5KOU/v-deo.html (although it took a long time to get rid of all the issues) It's not quite as simple as connecting up to offset the movement and letting iNav do it as the board in the gimbals also needs to drive the motors. What he did (and what I'd still suggest) is that you control the gimbal outside of any flight controller (unless you can forward on a PWM signal from somewhere on the board - although it's easier to do it directly from the radio) in that way you'd switch modes on the gimbal and manually pan/tilt/roll as you needed to.
@@CurryKitten Thanks a lot for your explanation and I went more or less the way and got a dji air unit gimbal of the shelve with its own stabilisation cause the "usual" action cam gimbals are pretty heavy and hard to fully integrate cause they were never supposed to used that way. They want a BT connection to the phone and its app and the only chance to bypass that would have been a bt remote controlled by channels / servos.
@@CurryKitten Thanks a lot for your explanation and I went more or less the way and got a dji air unit gimbal of the shelve with its own stabilisation cause the "usual" action cam gimbals are pretty heavy and hard to fully integrate cause they were never supposed to used that way. They want a BT connection to the phone and its app and the only chance to bypass that would have been a bt remote controlled by channels / servos.
But finally I found a gimbal manufacturer in france that offers a ton of different kind of gimbals and boards for about 100 - 150€ for this purpose and that seems to work out, cause lock down is still there and our activities too limited to visit the club where only 5 are allowed to be at the same time.
One final question: have you been working on the openHD system or do you have further plans beyond the rover like stuff in the past ?
Can you measure the latency?
I don't think i could do it very accurately myself, but it should be around 100ms
@@CurryKitten It's ok! Thanks.
is that a tamiya truck curry?
Yes - I did mis-state that this was a Tamiya Red Bull when I meant "Mad Bull". It must be at least 18 years old now!
yay to CK
Wooo to me :D
order maple antennas and you'll get about 2 km