Appreciate your detailed video. Thank you. I compiled a step-by-step instruction sheet for our 2009 Accent. My impact wrench could not remove the 22mm crank bolt. Thanks to you, I got the same pulley holder tool. The teeth on the timing belt were dry-rotted and fell off, then the crank gear just spun. Arizona summers did not help. As you know, engine is interference. Lucked out. Engine started instantly, idled fine and runs good. Dodged that bullet.
By far the best DIY video I have ever seen. And I've seen a lot! No shocking camera, under- or overexposed shots, blurry images, etc. The explanation was very understandable for me as a non-English speaker. Constructive and not making it more difficult than necessary. I ordered all V-belts including water pump today and hope to finish the job later this week. Thank you very much and keep up the good work! You are a natural talent! Greetings from the Netherlands
Excellent description of timing belt replacement.. Just one tip I’ve done in the past, is to remove number 1 spark plug.. This helps when turning the engine over as reduces compression..
Best and most complete video about timing belt replacement.And i viewed them for years now on youtube.Leave absolute no room for gueswork.Actually a training video for people that are good mechanics,but also excellent for people with little skill👍👍👍👍
This is the best tutorial for changing the timing belt on this model. I did the timing belt on my 2008 Kia Rio5 with 1.6L and this process was exactly the same. I really struggled with reinstalling the spring/tensioner. You made it look easy. Well done mate.
The best video on UA-cam for Hyundai 1.6 liter timing belt job. So imformative and easy to understand with nice description. Thanks to your help, I got confidence to do maintenance job for my 2008 accent which has 130k mile on it.
Great information! We don’t have the Getz in the USA. However , it’s very similar to my 2010 Hyundai Accent. I did the timing belt, pulleys, and tensioner back in 2017 at 60,000 miles. In 2024 or 2025 I will do all that again plus the water pump at 120,000 miles.
Great video. Other guys said remove engine mount so I did. I think they were doing water pump as well. It does give a bit more room but as you have just demonstrated not necessary for just the belt. I get that you are doing this with minimal tools but hop down to Bunnings and get an 18volt half inch drive impact driver. One of the best tools I have bought in 50 years. I use it daily in my mowing business. 5 years and it is still good as new. Cheers.
Thanks for the feedback. We noticed the same, that people often remove the engine mount. However it's not mentioned in the Factory Service Manual and we found the job is very doable with it in place. Good idea about the impact driver we'll have to add that to the list!
Hey mate! Just curious, if you bump either the bottom cog or the top cog out of alignment with the other, can you easily just move it clockwise or anticlockwise into re-alignment?
Excellent video mate, I've subscribed. Video and audio quality are first class with crystal clear narration. These little Getz's are getting on in years now but there's still swarms of them happily getting around all over Australia.
I have done this job on this model several times. It's possible to do the entire job without removing the right front wheel. I have done it with ramps only. It's not tricky. Some tips that may help someone: I loosen the camshaft bolt by bracing a long cheater bar against a block of wood on the ground and briefly kicking the starter. It works every time, but I admit there is a little risk for new players. This is quick and easy, but take care. The wood block protects the cheater bar's end from damage. This can also be done early in the process, as soon as you can access the bolt, which should be right after removing that plastic cover under the belts. In this way, you can know if the job can be done before you do any serious disassembly. Removing the harmonic balancer can also be tricky. I find it can be pulled off by hand while tapping it from the side with a brass hammer. The hammering helps it shock loose to begin with until it can be slid off the shaft. The job is easier if the right engine support bracket is removed first. You must jack up under the sump to take the weight off the mount first and ensure it does not sink down too far while you work. Chaps with big hands will appreciate the extra working space, and time will be saved overall. Torquing the crankshaft bolt can be done after all other assembly. Just don't forget. Doing this with a long half-inch drive extension (mine is about 600mm) and a suitable half-inch torque is easy. Once assembly is done I throw it in fifth and run the extension straight past the wheel to get the correct torque. This method (and the removal method mentioned above) eliminates the need to buy a special tool you will use only for three or four timing belt changes and perhaps a water pump change during the life of the car. I would consider replacing the water pump during this job. A water pump replacement basically requires a timing belt change anyway. A replacement water pump is inexpensive and also adds a coolant replacement to the job. That sounds like a lot until you find yourself doing that, plus work for the timing belt just for a water pump replacement. Worth thinking about before doing the timing belt change since you will be "in there" anyhow. When reinstalling the water pump pulley, lining up the first bolt through three holes in that situation is tricky. It can be time-consuming (particularly if you are still working around the right engine mount support bracket). I find it easiest to first run a zip tie through the top hole, which lines up all the other holes with gravity. Once you have two bolts, you can remove the zip tie and do the other two. In the video, this step happens with a jump cut - the magic of editing out all the fumbling and swearing, I guess. When tensioning the AC belt, there is also a locking bolt on the other side. This prevents the tensioner from backing off from engine vibration. I did not see this mentioned or tightened in the video during belt tensioning, but it should be done. Check your FSM.
I'm from México and your videos have been so useful to me, this engine g4ee found in the 2007 Hyundai accent in México but this model was sold by Dodge (Dodge attitude)
Hi in 7:58 you used a universal pulley holder to take off camshaft. If the aligned marks move how do you aligned them again when the nut is off? Thanks much appreciated.
Hi Antonio, I believe you're referring to removing the crankshaft pulley bolt (rather than camshaft). If you overshoot the marks in the process of cracking the bolt using the 22mm socket, you can make just under 2 full rotations of the crankshaft pulley again to bring both sets of marks on the crankshaft and camshaft back into alignment. The reason 2x rotations of the crankshaft pulley are required here is that the camshaft sprocket has twice as many teeth as the crankshaft sprocket, meaning that one rotation of the crankshaft pulley will result in its markings being aligned, while the camshaft sprocket would be 180 degrees out of alignment. The process of using the 22mm socket to rotate the pulley again will not re-tighten the bolt much (after you have already cracked it), then you can simply remove the bolt once the markings are back in alignment
12:36 you said that we needed to check the marks are lined up on the crankshaft and camshaft before we put the belt back on. Well my crankshaft moved forward from the Mark. Do I put the bolt in and go twice around clockwise?
Great video mate - much clearer instructions than all the other videos I have found (as well as great steady visuals)! Quick qustion - at what point in the process would I change out the water pump? Would it be after removing the idler pulley at 11:11?
Thanks for the feedback! We put a lot of effort in to make sure things are easy to see in the video. According to the manual you would remove it after removing the timing belt idler. Hope this helps.
@@2ndGearLow Thanks mate, I did the whole job today - cambelt, tensioner, water pump plus the alternator and power steering belts (which were shot when I pulled them off). Your video allowed me to take my time and be methodical. I can't thank you enough for this step by step guide - it ensured I didn't miss anything - especially when putting it all back together! I am so glad I did it - the bearings in the water pump and tensioner/idler pulley were all so noisy and the old cambelt was showing cracks on almost every tooth, so it's likely it would have all failed spectacularly very soon if I had not done it. I'm in New Zealand and Hyundai quoted me over $800 for the parts. I ended up importing it all from Australia for less than $200 delivered (Gates aftermarket stuff, but all looks good quality).
Very informative video, thank you for that, but my car is a 1.1 and does not have an idler, and the tensioner is a little different, but i have the service manual on hand. but one question, how difficult is it to replace the seal behind the timing belt sprocket?
Great video thanks. I would however advise doing some research on the potential risks of damage and loss of calibration of torque wrenches that are used to tighten fasteners beyond the set amount.
The best! Mate, i hope your work pays off soon, these are the best instructionals ive seen on this platform. When that ad revenue kicks in and you get working on more popular cars this channel will take off. The aussie chrisfix !!!
Absolutely brilliant video; I have done a lot of our own maintenance, but never a timing belt, so your video will be a great reference. One question; our kit comes with a water pump too, can I ask at what point in your video would be the best time to do the water pump?
Hi Glenn, if you search for "2006-2011 Hyundai Accent Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement" there is a video which shows the water pump replacement. It looks like they remove the old water pump after removing the timing belt. Unfortunately we didn't change ours at the time. Remember that coolant is quite toxic, especially to animals. Take care and dispose of it appropriately.
How you doin man can i use an impact to remove the pulley without holding the pulley and after that spining it back to the marking? etc im doing it just to loose it up because i got no special tools
Hi mate, thanks for watching. You could use an impact to remove the pulley, however you will still need to hold the pulley to be able to torque the bolt up properly on re-assembly. It's really important the crankshaft bolt is tightened correctly so we would not recommend using the impact to reinstall it
Great video! I want to change the 14-year-old timing belt on my 2010 Kia Rio with the exact same G4EE engine. It only has 80,000km on it but I want to be safe. Should I also replace my crankshaft and camshaft oil seals while I'm at it?
hey mate love your vids I want to do my timing belt myself but there isn't any clear step by step videos like yours can you do a lc 100 v8 timing belt guide
Would you do everything the same way if the original timing belt was stripped? Would a stripped timing belt damage the valves in the 1.6L engine? Great video very easy to follow. Also I think you can get a timing belt replacement kit that includes a water pump which would be ideal to replace at the same time especially if you have all of the associated components already removed.
Very good little cars and very easy to work on when needed. Hyundai agents told me not strange to see them running around still at 300 000 km on engine.
Hi Dylan, the method shown is applicable to the 1.4L and 1.6L engines. The process may be similar, it would be worth looking at the factory service manual for the 1.5L
Excellent video. I would also be telling people to beware of buying a timing belt that's kinked. Those belts don't last long. When you are given a timing belt that is kinked. It should be round and free and not in a packed tight cardboard. Fiber glass doesn't like sharp angles. Also check the date of manufacture. It could be sitting on a shelf for years.
Hi Tyron, thanks for watching and great question. I think what you might be getting at here is whether this engine is an interference engine or not. An interference engine means that when one or more of the valves are in the fully open position they can extend into an area of the cylinder where the piston may travel, meaning that if the timing belt snapped the piston could hit the valve and cause major damage. In normal operation, the timing belt ensures the pistons and valves never occupy the same space so no damage is caused. In a non-interference engine, when the piston is at top dead centre (TDC), i.e. its farthest travel, it will still not reach far enough to hit any of the valves in the fully open position (their farthest travel), meaning that even if the timing belt were to snap the pistons cannot collide with the valves. In short, if the timing belt snaps in an interference engine major internal damage will be caused. From research online, it looks like all Hyundai engines are interference engines (including the 1.4L / 1.6L covered here), which means that valves and pistons would very likely be damaged if the timing belt snaps. Best practice is to keep on top of the timing belt and ensure it is changed at or just before the required intervals to reduce the likelihood of that expensive damage occurring.
Really good video ! Thank you . I have a question … Has this hyundai crank shaft a seal ? ?? Trying to understand that , hope to hear from you Cheers bro you are a legend
Hi, thanks for watching! I'd suggest visiting this website partsouq.com, enter your Hyundai Getz VIN and you are able to see exploded diagrams for the entire vehicle. Search for 'crankshaft' and you will find that the seal part number. For our 2010 Getz this is part no. 09283-41001
Excellent video,😊 was this engine a 1.4 or a 1.6 liter, are they the same timing belt? My VIN number is KMHBT 31 BR7U157200. Can you please identify the engine size. It’s a dual overhead cam. My specification sticker under the hood is gone. Thank You.
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting! No there isn't - the factory service manual that we followed here covers the G4EE (1.4L) and G4ED (1.6L) engines, with no stated differences between the two for this section of the Engine Mechanical manual
@@2ndGearLow thank you for replying. I will do the timing belt myself, and your video is so much better than trying to understand that workshop manual loosely translated from Korean
That has to the best timing belt replacement guide I’ve ever seen. Well done.
Of all the rubbish I've been watching to assist me with my G4HG engine I got more information from you with a different engine. ❤well done mate.
Thanks mate! Great to hear you found the video useful
Appreciate your detailed video. Thank you.
I compiled a step-by-step instruction sheet for our 2009 Accent.
My impact wrench could not remove the 22mm crank bolt. Thanks to you, I got the same pulley holder tool.
The teeth on the timing belt were dry-rotted and fell off, then the crank gear just spun. Arizona summers did not help.
As you know, engine is interference. Lucked out. Engine started instantly, idled fine and runs good. Dodged that bullet.
Hi Casey, thanks for watching. Sounds like you got very lucky there with no lasting damage! Appreciate the feedback and glad to hear the video helped
By far the best DIY video I have ever seen. And I've seen a lot! No shocking camera, under- or overexposed shots, blurry images, etc. The explanation was very understandable for me as a non-English speaker. Constructive and not making it more difficult than necessary. I ordered all V-belts including water pump today and hope to finish the job later this week. Thank you very much and keep up the good work! You are a natural talent! Greetings from the Netherlands
Excellent description of timing belt replacement..
Just one tip I’ve done in the past, is to remove number 1 spark plug.. This helps when turning the engine over as reduces compression..
Thanks for the feedback and the tip Eamon!
Best and most complete video about timing belt replacement.And i viewed them for years now on youtube.Leave absolute no room for gueswork.Actually a training video for people that are good mechanics,but also excellent for people with little skill👍👍👍👍
Thanks a lot for this Henk, we're really glad to hear you appreciated the video!
This is the best tutorial for changing the timing belt on this model. I did the timing belt on my 2008 Kia Rio5 with 1.6L and this process was exactly the same. I really struggled with reinstalling the spring/tensioner. You made it look easy. Well done mate.
Hi Tommy, thanks for watching. We really appreciate your feedback, and yes that part is a bit fiddly!
I got stuck trying to put the tensioner back today, which brought me here. Lol
The best video on UA-cam for Hyundai 1.6 liter timing belt job. So imformative and easy to understand with nice description. Thanks to your help, I got confidence to do maintenance job for my 2008 accent which has 130k mile on it.
Thank you very much! We really appreciate your feedback on the video and are glad to hear it's helping you out
Probably the best DIY video I've seen. Bravo!!
Thanks for the feedback!
Great information! We don’t have the Getz in the USA. However , it’s very similar to my 2010 Hyundai Accent. I did the timing belt, pulleys, and tensioner back in 2017 at 60,000 miles. In 2024 or 2025 I will do all that again plus the water pump at 120,000 miles.
Thanks! Hope it's helpful.
Thanks for the nice, clear video. Best part is you didn’t take the engine mount off like the service manual says.
Thanks Shane, we appreciate you watching & commenting
Great video. Other guys said remove engine mount so I did. I think they were doing water pump as well. It does give a bit more room but as you have just demonstrated not necessary for just the belt. I get that you are doing this with minimal tools but hop down to Bunnings and get an 18volt half inch drive impact driver. One of the best tools I have bought in 50 years. I use it daily in my mowing business. 5 years and it is still good as new. Cheers.
Thanks for the feedback. We noticed the same, that people often remove the engine mount. However it's not mentioned in the Factory Service Manual and we found the job is very doable with it in place. Good idea about the impact driver we'll have to add that to the list!
Thank you, your video was very helpful for replacing the valve seals on my G4EE Getz during which I had to go through this process as well
Absolutely EXCELLENT ! I learned a few things and I must've done 50 of those. Best I've seen on YT.
Thanks for the feedback! We're glad it helped.
Best video Ive ever seen of a timing belt replacement. Very helpful and clear.
Subscribed and liked
Thanks Bruno!
Just done mine😅 You make it look so easy mate - took me nearly a whole day. But thanks heaps, could not have done it within your vid.
Nice work, we're glad it helped!
Agree with previous comments, best timing chain/belt tutorial I've seen. Very helpful thanks.
Thanks for watching Simon, we appreciate your feedback
Hey mate! Just curious, if you bump either the bottom cog or the top cog out of alignment with the other, can you easily just move it clockwise or anticlockwise into re-alignment?
Excellent video mate, I've subscribed. Video and audio quality are first class with crystal clear narration. These little Getz's are getting on in years now but there's still swarms of them happily getting around all over Australia.
Thanks for the feedback and for subscribing Pete!
Great video, the little getz looks like its very easy to service.
Thanks mate, spot on for most of these jobs
You're a champ. Excellent video. Detailed and clear throughout!!
Thanks for watching Bryan, we appreciate your feedback!
I have done this job on this model several times. It's possible to do the entire job without removing the right front wheel. I have done it with ramps only. It's not tricky.
Some tips that may help someone:
I loosen the camshaft bolt by bracing a long cheater bar against a block of wood on the ground and briefly kicking the starter. It works every time, but I admit there is a little risk for new players. This is quick and easy, but take care. The wood block protects the cheater bar's end from damage. This can also be done early in the process, as soon as you can access the bolt, which should be right after removing that plastic cover under the belts. In this way, you can know if the job can be done before you do any serious disassembly.
Removing the harmonic balancer can also be tricky. I find it can be pulled off by hand while tapping it from the side with a brass hammer. The hammering helps it shock loose to begin with until it can be slid off the shaft.
The job is easier if the right engine support bracket is removed first. You must jack up under the sump to take the weight off the mount first and ensure it does not sink down too far while you work. Chaps with big hands will appreciate the extra working space, and time will be saved overall.
Torquing the crankshaft bolt can be done after all other assembly. Just don't forget. Doing this with a long half-inch drive extension (mine is about 600mm) and a suitable half-inch torque is easy. Once assembly is done I throw it in fifth and run the extension straight past the wheel to get the correct torque. This method (and the removal method mentioned above) eliminates the need to buy a special tool you will use only for three or four timing belt changes and perhaps a water pump change during the life of the car.
I would consider replacing the water pump during this job. A water pump replacement basically requires a timing belt change anyway. A replacement water pump is inexpensive and also adds a coolant replacement to the job. That sounds like a lot until you find yourself doing that, plus work for the timing belt just for a water pump replacement. Worth thinking about before doing the timing belt change since you will be "in there" anyhow.
When reinstalling the water pump pulley, lining up the first bolt through three holes in that situation is tricky. It can be time-consuming (particularly if you are still working around the right engine mount support bracket). I find it easiest to first run a zip tie through the top hole, which lines up all the other holes with gravity. Once you have two bolts, you can remove the zip tie and do the other two. In the video, this step happens with a jump cut - the magic of editing out all the fumbling and swearing, I guess.
When tensioning the AC belt, there is also a locking bolt on the other side. This prevents the tensioner from backing off from engine vibration. I did not see this mentioned or tightened in the video during belt tensioning, but it should be done. Check your FSM.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge watching from bukidnon philippines
Thank you for watching, from Western Australia!
Your video is perfect in the way you explain the steps to get it done with some tricks to ease the process.
You earned a sub .🎉
Thank you very much for watching, and we appreciate the sub!
I'm from México and your videos have been so useful to me, this engine g4ee found in the 2007 Hyundai accent in México but this model was sold by Dodge (Dodge attitude)
Thank you for watching! Interesting to hear that, and glad the video helped
Fantastic video, best I've seen in years! Great work...
Thanks for the feedback!
Excellent ...made it look easy but very thorough and clear instructions
Thanks for watching Mike!
Very Clear and informative video. It gives me the confidence to tackle the job myself and save lots of money. Thanks and keep up the good work!!.
Thanks for the feedback Ralphy!
Great video as always! Thank you. Just when our Getz needs its timing belt replaced soon.
Thanks Daniel, hope it goes well for you!
Excellent video. Very good explanations of reasons for the various steps.
Thank you for watching, we appreciate your comment!
Perfect job,perfect video editing.
Thank you very much!
Hi in 7:58 you used a universal pulley holder to take off camshaft. If the aligned marks move how do you aligned them again when the nut is off? Thanks much appreciated.
Hi Antonio, I believe you're referring to removing the crankshaft pulley bolt (rather than camshaft). If you overshoot the marks in the process of cracking the bolt using the 22mm socket, you can make just under 2 full rotations of the crankshaft pulley again to bring both sets of marks on the crankshaft and camshaft back into alignment. The reason 2x rotations of the crankshaft pulley are required here is that the camshaft sprocket has twice as many teeth as the crankshaft sprocket, meaning that one rotation of the crankshaft pulley will result in its markings being aligned, while the camshaft sprocket would be 180 degrees out of alignment. The process of using the 22mm socket to rotate the pulley again will not re-tighten the bolt much (after you have already cracked it), then you can simply remove the bolt once the markings are back in alignment
Thank you very much for the video and reply. And sorry for the late my reply. Cheers
12:36 you said that we needed to check the marks are lined up on the crankshaft and camshaft before we put the belt back on. Well my crankshaft moved forward from the Mark. Do I put the bolt in and go twice around clockwise?
Forgot to say Hi and please. Cheers
What do you think about making a video about the bleed/drain of the cooling system ? It could be really helpful
Thanks for the suggestion!
Excellent video. Very informative and clear instructions. Thanks for making 👍
Thanks a lot for watching and for the feedback!
This is one of the best videos l seen
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you found it helpful.
I think its easier replacing a head gasket than a timing belt... Very good tutorial thanks...
Thanks for watching Dirk, yes it's not a quick job!
Very informative as usual. I would love to see a power steering fluid change and brake fluid change for the 80 series.
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed, and we appreciate the video suggestions
A great well done easy to follow video .thanks george.
Thanks George, we appreciate your feedback
Great video mate - much clearer instructions than all the other videos I have found (as well as great steady visuals)! Quick qustion - at what point in the process would I change out the water pump? Would it be after removing the idler pulley at 11:11?
Thanks for the feedback! We put a lot of effort in to make sure things are easy to see in the video. According to the manual you would remove it after removing the timing belt idler. Hope this helps.
@@2ndGearLow Thanks mate, I did the whole job today - cambelt, tensioner, water pump plus the alternator and power steering belts (which were shot when I pulled them off). Your video allowed me to take my time and be methodical. I can't thank you enough for this step by step guide - it ensured I didn't miss anything - especially when putting it all back together!
I am so glad I did it - the bearings in the water pump and tensioner/idler pulley were all so noisy and the old cambelt was showing cracks on almost every tooth, so it's likely it would have all failed spectacularly very soon if I had not done it.
I'm in New Zealand and Hyundai quoted me over $800 for the parts. I ended up importing it all from Australia for less than $200 delivered (Gates aftermarket stuff, but all looks good quality).
@wheelbarrow01 great to hear it went well mate! Thanks for taking the time to let us know the video helped you out
Absolutely brilliant video! Well done!
Thank you very much Burton!
Nice video. Now I can do it with My Hyundai Matrix. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Excellent video. Very professional
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video and advice!
Doing this on a 2000 lc accent will I need to remove the engine mount?
Everything else seems the same as the Getz.
Hi Gregg, thanks for watching. Unfortunately we're not too familiar with your model so can't comment on what the differences would be
Very well explained mate. Cheers
No problem Rod, thanks for watching
Very informative video, thank you for that, but my car is a 1.1 and does not have an idler, and the tensioner is a little different, but i have the service manual on hand.
but one question, how difficult is it to replace the seal behind the timing belt sprocket?
Great video thanks. I would however advise doing some research on the potential risks of damage and loss of calibration of torque wrenches that are used to tighten fasteners beyond the set amount.
Great video mate , definitely using it in future. 👌🏻
Thanks for watching, glad to hear it!
The best! Mate, i hope your work pays off soon, these are the best instructionals ive seen on this platform. When that ad revenue kicks in and you get working on more popular cars this channel will take off. The aussie chrisfix !!!
Thanks John, that's high praise mate and we really appreciate it! Thanks a lot!
the crankshaft pulley drives the water pump which in turns drive the power steering pump, did I get that right?
Muy bien presentado. Es muy profesional. Excelente
Thanks for watching mate!
Absolutely brilliant video; I have done a lot of our own maintenance, but never a timing belt, so your video will be a great reference. One question; our kit comes with a water pump too, can I ask at what point in your video would be the best time to do the water pump?
Hi Glenn, if you search for "2006-2011 Hyundai Accent Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement" there is a video which shows the water pump replacement. It looks like they remove the old water pump after removing the timing belt. Unfortunately we didn't change ours at the time.
Remember that coolant is quite toxic, especially to animals. Take care and dispose of it appropriately.
Fantastic explanation how to proceed😊
Thanks John!
Will it be wrong if I were to remove crankshaft pulley, then install crankshaft bolt on the sprocket then rotate engine to timing mark
Great video mate. Keep them coming
Thanks Adrian!
Great content mate! Thanks heaps
Glad you enjoyed it!
How you doin man can i use an impact to remove the pulley without holding the pulley and after that spining it back to the marking? etc im doing it just to loose it up because i got no special tools
Hi mate, thanks for watching. You could use an impact to remove the pulley, however you will still need to hold the pulley to be able to torque the bolt up properly on re-assembly. It's really important the crankshaft bolt is tightened correctly so we would not recommend using the impact to reinstall it
@@2ndGearLow ok thank you very much but i aint got torque wernch so i can tight it with a feeling
thanks for a great video, love my getz
No worries George, thanks for watching!
Hi there, I have a 1.4 and was wondering where the emperature sensor is locater. Thanks
Best tutorial ever
Thanks Tyron!
Great video, but why didn't you change the water pump as well? I understand that they're usually replaced at the same time as the timing belt.
If the timing belt drive the water then you can do it às well
Wow, top teacher mechanic!
Thanks for watching Miguel!
Amazing video. Thankyou. New subscriber. Happy New Year.
Great video! I want to change the 14-year-old timing belt on my 2010 Kia Rio with the exact same G4EE engine. It only has 80,000km on it but I want to be safe. Should I also replace my crankshaft and camshaft oil seals while I'm at it?
Is it possible that if the timing belt brake and the engine bend the valves
hey mate love your vids I want to do my timing belt myself but there isn't any clear step by step videos like yours can you do a lc 100 v8 timing belt guide
Nice Video, Well done!
Thanks Dirk!
Would you do everything the same way if the original timing belt was stripped? Would a stripped timing belt damage the valves in the 1.6L engine? Great video very easy to follow. Also I think you can get a timing belt replacement kit that includes a water pump which would be ideal to replace at the same time especially if you have all of the associated components already removed.
Brilliant! thanks
Good job man.
Wow would like to know how to replace the cam chain on that getz
Legend !!!
thank you bro😃
Thank you for watching
So, no need to change crankshaft seal and camshaft seal?
Thanks for a very clear video, what sort of time frame are we looking at 2 or 3 hours?
Good job 👏👏👏👍👌
just perfect, thanks
Glad it helped!
Any chance of a transmission oil change tutorial for a Getz?
Thanks Sean, we'll keep this in mind for a future video
Thank you for the video
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Buying used getz 1.3 tomorrow
Hope it goes well!
Very good little cars and very easy to work on when needed. Hyundai agents told me not strange to see them running around still at 300 000 km on engine.
Is it the same process for the 1.5 L petrol engine
Hi Dylan, the method shown is applicable to the 1.4L and 1.6L engines. The process may be similar, it would be worth looking at the factory service manual for the 1.5L
Excellent video. I would also be telling people to beware of buying a timing belt that's kinked. Those belts don't last long. When you are given a timing belt that is kinked. It should be round and free and not in a packed tight cardboard. Fiber glass doesn't like sharp angles. Also check the date of manufacture. It could be sitting on a shelf for years.
I've been told that the getz doesn't bend valves if belt snaps .is this true
Hi Tyron, thanks for watching and great question. I think what you might be getting at here is whether this engine is an interference engine or not. An interference engine means that when one or more of the valves are in the fully open position they can extend into an area of the cylinder where the piston may travel, meaning that if the timing belt snapped the piston could hit the valve and cause major damage. In normal operation, the timing belt ensures the pistons and valves never occupy the same space so no damage is caused. In a non-interference engine, when the piston is at top dead centre (TDC), i.e. its farthest travel, it will still not reach far enough to hit any of the valves in the fully open position (their farthest travel), meaning that even if the timing belt were to snap the pistons cannot collide with the valves. In short, if the timing belt snaps in an interference engine major internal damage will be caused. From research online, it looks like all Hyundai engines are interference engines (including the 1.4L / 1.6L covered here), which means that valves and pistons would very likely be damaged if the timing belt snaps. Best practice is to keep on top of the timing belt and ensure it is changed at or just before the required intervals to reduce the likelihood of that expensive damage occurring.
Very good video
Thanks for the feedback!
Please next video valve adjustment hyundai getz and tools and how to do it. Thanks.
Hi, thanks for watching. We'll keep this in mind for a future video
Thanks for your vid man! How much time takes you to change the timing belt?
Excellent thank u
Thanks Mona!
Where did you get the tool for holding the crank pulley
Hi Peter, ‘OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder’ is shown, which we purchased from Amazon AU. See 00:42 of this video for a snapshot of the listing
Really good video ! Thank you . I have a question …
Has this hyundai crank shaft a seal ? ??
Trying to understand that , hope to hear from you
Cheers bro you are a legend
I mean a front seal …
Hi, thanks for watching! I'd suggest visiting this website partsouq.com, enter your Hyundai Getz VIN and you are able to see exploded diagrams for the entire vehicle. Search for 'crankshaft' and you will find that the seal part number. For our 2010 Getz this is part no. 09283-41001
good video
Thanks mate
Thanks mate.
No problem Reg, thanks for watching!
Excellent video,😊 was this engine a 1.4 or a 1.6 liter, are they the same timing belt? My VIN number is KMHBT 31 BR7U157200. Can you please identify the engine size. It’s a dual overhead cam. My specification sticker under the hood is gone. Thank You.
I love how you install the tensioner like its nothing i got Hyperthermia and frustation
this is the 4th video where Ive seen commenteers saying "best video" lol
Thank you ❤️🧑🏻🔧
No worries, thanks for watching!
Thanks
Thanks for watching
Excellent video. Is there any major difference between this and the 1.6L?
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting! No there isn't - the factory service manual that we followed here covers the G4EE (1.4L) and G4ED (1.6L) engines, with no stated differences between the two for this section of the Engine Mechanical manual
@@2ndGearLow thank you for replying. I will do the timing belt myself, and your video is so much better than trying to understand that workshop manual loosely translated from Korean
LEGEND !!!!!
Thanks for watching Squizzy!
My hydundia Getz 2007 refuse to start
❤
Thanks for watching
as good as it getz