Part 2/7: Chrysler PT Cruiser timing belt and waterpump
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
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Motorcity Mechanic
P.O. Box 240
Grovetown Ga, 30813
Here is a link to the Gates package that includes the timing belt, waterpump, tensioner, and idler pulley: www.amazon.com/...
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Well, I'm going to be doing it the hard way. I have to leave the A/C lines connected and in the way. Maybe some day I will get the A/C vaccuum system. Funny thing is, I was ASE certified for the heating and A/C system, but I never had the tools for that job at home. But I have a tire machine and balancer in my garage at home. Yeah, I have to change tires for family and friends. And everything else for family members and friends. LOL
I'll be doing this job when the parts come and I have enough beer. Good Grief!! I recommend not messing with the A/C Lines. If you don't know what you're doing, it's easy to contaminate the system. Plus, you don't want any moisture getting in there or she's gonna blow at some point. Plus, you need to make sure it has enough oil, not just the refrigerant.
Thank you! MotorCity Mechanic for the Video!! All the steps from a Pro!! What more could you want?? Him to do it for us!! ROFL!!
Thanks for the kind words. I appreciate you watching all the videos....sorry so long but it needed to be to include all the details. Also...thanks for being a loyal subscriber.
@@MotorCityMechanic Never too many details! That's how you finish and get the job done right! Don't start a job like this if you don't know all the steps. Those that complain are in over their heads and don't want to work. I treasure every single detail in these videos because that's what's going to help me complete this job. Other people make videos that skip steps and then the people wonder how to finish with half their stuff taken apart. Do they really want that?
Excellent instructions, just completed water pump and timing belt replacement on a 2005 pt cruiser. The timing belt failed at 109,480. FYI, it was not necessary to break into the AC system. Thanks for the guidance.
You are correct Johnny on the a/c. I just prefer to remove the freon to help give me that little but more clearance. Its easy when you have the equipment in the shop to recover it, otherwise you can do the job with the lines still attached and full of freon. As you saw.......broken belt didnt mean bent valves. Glad to see that you got it back on the road and my hats off to you for taking on the repair. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe
Just solved the age old problem of getting the timing belt over the tensioner, that last exasperating task is now simple. Take a piece of thin sheet metal, about the thickness used in flashing sheet or duct work. cut a 2x2" square and round the corners a bit for safety. Form it to fit the tensioner diameter. Using this "shoehorn", it's much, much, easier to get the square edge of the belt over the square edge of the tensioner pulley. Just get the belt in position, slide the shoehorn between the belt and pulley and slide the belt up and over the edge. You still have to eliminate every bit of slack on the tight side, but what can seem impossible becomes fairly easy.
Great idea and I appreciate you watching as well. Sometimes it can be tight getting the belt on and others not so much. It’s one of the steps that a lot of people have a struggle with. Make sure to subscribe
Hahaha I see that Mitsubishi logo on top of the alternator!! I see a lot of cars out there, Mazda, Kia, Subaru, even Toyota and Honda with Mitsubishi components!!
Chrysler has always had a relationship with Mitsubishi.....at least until FCA took over. We shared a few vehicles. They made the Ram 50 for us and years later we made the Mitsubishi Raider which was a Dakota lol. There were others in between as well, mainly we used some of their vehicles. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Pulling the headlight and inner wheel panel helps if you don't want to drain ac
Here's another hot tip: On a new tight engine the cam sprockets may behave, but on my old PT they wouldn't stay put while I messed with the tensioner. It seems the exhaust at the mark was up a cam lobe so it wouldn't stay. It was hot and I was P.O.ed and so, went back to basics. Things can only be off by a number of teeth, no in betweens. So, get the thing on there once. If it's right, great. If not, mark the belt and sprockets so you don't lose your place. Count how many teeth you're off using the bolts center line with the crank set right. Take it loose, and move the right number of teeth using the marks. Shouldn't take more than twice. It has to work and eliminates the half a tooth and slack and other variables. Cruisin' again.
Yeah I wish you the gears would stay in place and not spring back. Sometimes I I use a wrench to hold it in place. They make aftermarket cam gear holders....just haven’t tried any to see what works best. Thanks again for the added tips
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It is not necessary to remove A/C lines. If you have a shop with all the equipment I guess it's OK, but as a customer I wouldn't want to pay your prices to recharge the A/C when you can easily work around it. I take out the right headlight which gives easier access to the bolt that holds the front of the upper torque arm mount. Swivel socket and a looong extension through the headlight opening. PITA job and all in all another bad design by Chrysler. My only question is why are they still in business.
All well and good in a shop with correct tools, but try that laying on your back under the carport with your $40 Harbor Freight toolset because you can't afford the nearly $1,000 that the local mechanic wants !
Great video!!
Thanks Irenia! Make sure to subscribe
el mejor canal muy bien tnx ***the best Chanel i like it very helpful 👍
Gracias por ver los videos. Ahora, asegúrese de suscribirse y compartir los vídeos con los demás.
Thank you for explaining repairs on the PT Cruiser. I am in the process of replacing the central motor mount and followed your directions in this series to get to it. I finally loosened the mount but it does not have enough clearance to come out from the top. I have not pulled the crank balancer pully. Do you have a video in removing center mount? Any advice is greatly appreciated :)
The service info states to remove the engine. I would try removing the timing belt/covers/and balancer and then see if you have enough room, you may need to remove the timing belt tensioner assembly as well to get as much room as possible instead of having to remove the engine like the service info mentions.
You have to take off the timing cover bracket that attaches the upper torgue strut. It's a big piece of cast iron right on the middle of the engine. Not enough clearance otherwise. To take that off you have to jack the engine up quite aways and fight for every inch as the peice has three little claws that hook into the engine.
Glad I was referred to your video. My 2001 just broke a timing belt.
Question, I get lots of conflicting theories of it being interference or non Interference engine. What do you say? Will I potentially have more problems?
I feel you wont have any issues. Only issue is when someone times it up work or impacts the cam sprockets on. Otherwise I fixed them all the time and never any damage. I did a video on just this subject on one I bought for my daughter. ua-cam.com/video/NS-arL6tAF4/v-deo.html
Hello Motor City mechanic i was wondering do you have a shop in Michigan? I need my 2002 pt crusier worked on.
I dont, actually I am located just outside of Augusta Georgia. Otherwise I would be more then happy to work on it for you. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
4 to 6 videos to help do the job???....no f...king way, just too much parts, cross members interference, tools, time....Terrible design by chrysler and they don't even give you a 100,000 mile warranty....cheaper to get rid of it and buy a KIA
The actual job can be done in about 3 hours if you know the steps. The number of videos isnt the repair being complicated....its me being very detailed and covering every nut and bolt. I could have jumped over a lot of steps and made one video but it wouldnt have been the purpose I was going for.
If I'm at this points with all the parts directed to remove, how do i take the car to get the A/C discharged?
Typically you would have had the refrigerant removed before you started the repair. You can do the job without doing that but it makes it harder.
How do you align the timing back after the belt breaks to make sure everything is dead on
you can turn each pulley independently. just rotate the crankshaft pulley until the marks line up and then rotate both cam gears so that the words 2.4 up not upside down but right side up so that it can be read. Then line both cam gears to each other. Make sure to check out the timing marks portion of this video series to see exactly where the marks are and where they need to line up.
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@@MotorCityMechanic Can you rotate the cam gears into position individually, or do you do it together? I'm worried about hitting valves together and bending a valve.
i have a problem with my pt crusier.... the mecanic did evething on my car .. about. cooler sistem. but my car steel over heat... . could be the water pumpo ????? ..
I repeat my mecanic fix evething abour cooler sistem... also add special antifreezer... bleeding.. etc.. he put the fun direct... and steel overhat.. .. i dont know where alse i have to do........ help ... thanks.. Ricardo
What needs to be done is what they call a cylinder leak down test to see if there is any issues with the cylinder head/gasket. The other option is what they call a block test which checks for combustion chamber gases in the coolant system using a special tester and fluid. The engine may have been run hot too much that it warped the head. It can be a cause and effect. You may have repaired the cause of the initial overheat but it being overheated to much or too many times may have caused a new issue with the cylinder head warping. Waterpumps pretty much only leak on these engines but there could be some rare issue where the blades corroded away. It just depends.
+MotorCity Mechanic thank-you for the info it helped
Your welcome. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe and share the videos as well
My 2005 PT will turn over but not start. I got Codes P0340 and P0700. I replaced the camshaft sensor and have begun the tear down to replace the waterpump, pulleys, and timing belt. When i pulled the top cover I found the timing belt intact...kind of shocked me as the cam shafts do not turn, I was thinking the belt was broken. The vehicle has over 150,000 miles and timing belt etc has never been changed. What reasons exist that would justify the timing belt not turning and the cams therefore not turning?
If you want a spin the crank shaft and the cam gears don’t turn then the teeth on the timing belt may have gotten ripped off the belt at the crank gear inside the lower cover.
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