Man, you have some great ones! Did you do a window build video? Also, the motor mount... Akers has a motor mount plate, it centers the motor and gets it out of the way of the links. Great option. Also you can get a Furitek Mini Komodo motor mount, and 12mm M3 screws, (Maybe 14mm can't remember exactly) this will work for the Cedar. I didn't use the mount that came with the Cedar, it had the motor down and to one side, this causes it to connect with the links and prevents dropping the whole rig down further which is worse CG than lifting the motor up a bit and centering it. Even if i were to flip my trans & motor around, i would still prefer to center it. Anyway, thanks for the great show, and have a excellent week!
@@Moneypit__RC right on, I'm watching the video again because i was distracted by kids. There's something about rubber bands that i would like to share, i think you will appreciate it, almost everybody who uses them.. "tunes" them wrong. The problem is that the rubber bands pull down past any given vehicle ride-height if they are not installed right. The problem with that is that it's limiting your shocks ability to support the weight of the rig when the weight is increased (such as on an incline the rear shocks hold more weight). This causes the rear shocks and suspension, to buckle under the weight, thus causing the rig to roll back. The way to fix this is by finding your ideal ride-height, and getting the correct sized rubber band, and setting it up so that if you compress the shocks, the rubber bands go slack. This way it doesn't fight your shocks on the way uphill. Start by finding your ideal ride-height, then tune the rubber bands to only begin resistance at that ride-height. You may need to figure out a way to keep the rubber band from becoming shifted or coming off.. it's not too hard. Those tiny tooth braces rubber bands work well to hold the long one on at both ends, but there are other ways. Those tiny rubber bands could also be daisy-chained to the correct length, though i haven't tried this. Anyway, sorry for the novel, and i probably didn't explain it well enough.
Man all your builds are looking killer! Love the 4Runner, half cab looks awesome as well, always love seeing builds like that, looks so clean with nothing showing behind the body. Also looking forward to seeing what you do with the double cab build. Really enjoy watching your builds come together as I’m not very talented in the paint and body department lol keep up the great work and have a good one man 🤙🏽
@@dnesquick I do have a video for that it’s titled “using salt to rust my RC body” I also have a video on how I applied my graphics. It’s a simple method and works great. For the windows you buy a lexan sheet .030” off Amazon and cut it and hot glue it in.
I'll get my first scx24 after the first. I am excited. Budget, so i found amain, $109 for Deadbolt. :) Might Go for the c10 or The gladiator if i have enough money on payday. Yayyy :)
Love that surfboard. That build is Awesome.
Appreciate it!
Man, you have some great ones!
Did you do a window build video?
Also, the motor mount... Akers has a motor mount plate, it centers the motor and gets it out of the way of the links. Great option.
Also you can get a Furitek Mini Komodo motor mount, and 12mm M3 screws, (Maybe 14mm can't remember exactly) this will work for the Cedar.
I didn't use the mount that came with the Cedar, it had the motor down and to one side, this causes it to connect with the links and prevents dropping the whole rig down further which is worse CG than lifting the motor up a bit and centering it.
Even if i were to flip my trans & motor around, i would still prefer to center it.
Anyway, thanks for the great show, and have a excellent week!
I didnt get around to the window video yet! I ran out of material haha. But thank you for those tips! I’ll definitely look into that!
@@Moneypit__RC right on, I'm watching the video again because i was distracted by kids.
There's something about rubber bands that i would like to share, i think you will appreciate it, almost everybody who uses them.. "tunes" them wrong.
The problem is that the rubber bands pull down past any given vehicle ride-height if they are not installed right.
The problem with that is that it's limiting your shocks ability to support the weight of the rig when the weight is increased (such as on an incline the rear shocks hold more weight).
This causes the rear shocks and suspension, to buckle under the weight, thus causing the rig to roll back.
The way to fix this is by finding your ideal ride-height, and getting the correct sized rubber band, and setting it up so that if you compress the shocks, the rubber bands go slack.
This way it doesn't fight your shocks on the way uphill.
Start by finding your ideal ride-height, then tune the rubber bands to only begin resistance at that ride-height.
You may need to figure out a way to keep the rubber band from becoming shifted or coming off.. it's not too hard.
Those tiny tooth braces rubber bands work well to hold the long one on at both ends, but there are other ways.
Those tiny rubber bands could also be daisy-chained to the correct length, though i haven't tried this.
Anyway, sorry for the novel, and i probably didn't explain it well enough.
Man all your builds are looking killer! Love the 4Runner, half cab looks awesome as well, always love seeing builds like that, looks so clean with nothing showing behind the body. Also looking forward to seeing what you do with the double cab build. Really enjoy watching your builds come together as I’m not very talented in the paint and body department lol keep up the great work and have a good one man 🤙🏽
Thank you very much! I’m glad you can join along with my journey!
Black an red looks Good.
Thanks!
4runner looks good
Thank you!
Did you have a video on painting the 4Runner? Dig the mountains on it. And what do you use for windows?
@@dnesquick I do have a video for that it’s titled “using salt to rust my RC body” I also have a video on how I applied my graphics. It’s a simple method and works great. For the windows you buy a lexan sheet .030” off Amazon and cut it and hot glue it in.
I'll get my first scx24 after the first. I am excited. Budget, so i found amain, $109 for Deadbolt. :) Might Go for the c10 or The gladiator if i have enough money on payday. Yayyy :)
Yes!! Yay!!
@@Moneypit__RC Local Hobby has a c10. :) No waiting for Mail. I want my new toy :)