It is scary on how technical you get with your plethora of knowledge yet you explain it so well & you analogies make it so easy to understand...Thank You!
As a firefighter, I feel like I’m listening to our burn cadre during our fire behavior class in our burn box and tower on our fire academy. A lot of knowledge and pretty incredible how you tied everything together. Even the Eddy analogy(swift water). Hose and water management. Every firefighter can relate to the terminology here.
Really interesting video. Been experimenting with different designs on my tiny offset myself, I've settled on a Franklin / Mill Scale design baffle, wide open exchange and a shelf 2" above the grate. I've had good results and great flavor, definitely better than the factory downward lip baffle that caused a marked hot spot in the center of the grate. Cheers!
@@SmokerBuilder There's truly a ton to play with. So fare I've tested the Franklin design (you can see a picture of it on my insta), the Workhorse design (top half of the exchange covered, downward lip, and two slits between the lip and the shield), and no baffle at all If I had to be honest and ask you a question at the same time, I've noticed little difference between using a well-designed baffle and no baffle at all-as long as there is at least a small water pan on the cooking grate at the exchange to create some turbulation at the exit; aside from sparing the first third of the cooking grate from getting blasted with direct heat, does having a baffle make a difference at all in an open offset? Note: mine is a tiny 16x36 1/4" open offset with an oversized stack (4 1/2" x 33") and no collector, although the stack opening is essentially 3" from the food grate because it's just 16" in diameter; the firebox is also oversized at 16x21", and the throat is two overlapping circles with no dams or restrictions, for a total of 78 sq in. I build my fire on the bottom of the round firebox with no grates or baskets, and the pit runs well except for the nuclear hot spot right in the middle if using the factory baffle
Guess I need to change my plans of doing a reverse flow. I use my Weber charcoal grill to smoke and I get that, I'm guessing, white smoke. But because I use chunks with the snake method, it doesn't get over smoked. And I stopped soaking the chunks long ago.
Thanks Frank. There are several questions: 1. The analogy with the hose with a pinched finger is clear, but then why do they make huge elbows in many pits, turning into a pipe of a slightly smaller diameter, if the stack is closed by 25-50%? 2. Does an isolated firebox affect "too clean smoke" ? 3. Those whose names cannot be called (lol) often show in commercials that their door is wide open, but do they cook the same way, or is it just a demonstration? Thanks.
Great question! On #1- the main difference between elbows and collector boxes is where the most friction loss happens. They both still have a certain amount of friction loss. On the elbows there is more at the transition between the smoke stack and the elbow. On the collector box there is more at the takeoff for the stack where it meets the adapter. On the elbow there is another point of friction loss if the reducer is used. Really at the end of the day both styles work really well. Your damper setting would be changed on the elbow setup possibly more open to get the same result. I'll cover this in detail on a future episode as I could talk forever lol... #2 Really it doesn't have any effect on how clean your smoke is. #3 I have cooked on a couple of this style of smoker and it really depends on the situation and desired temp. I have see some situations where the door is mostly open and others where it is only a couple inches.
Thanks Keith! It really depends on what kind of smoker you’re cooking on. Think about it as far as where the heat source is coming from. If the heat source is coming from the bottom up then yes the baffle plate under the meat could help. If you’re thinking about reverseflow type of system, check out some of the designs on our website. You’ll see a dash line on the image that is where we would place the baffle plate. If you’re thinking about a traditional offset with tuning plates that you can move around then they would go in the same place as the baffleplate
Frank, or anyone with experience, I’m starting to diy build a UDS and for the charcoal basket I’m adding a chain to lower and extract it. What coatings should I avoid? I know not to use galvanized , but what about zinc plated? Obviously stainless steel would be best but I can’t find any chain that is SS. I could use cable but then I need stoppers or some way to finish the ends. Any suggestions will help. Thanks
Hey buddy I’m sure you’ve already handled this by now as I’m just getting to see this but I always use plain old carbon steel. It’s just like using any cast iron skillet. No harmful coatings
@@SmokerBuilder okay I got the system made for the Oklahoma Joe highland from bbq mods and I felt like it took me forever to get to 250, I was burning peach half splits and for a pork shoulder it took up a lot of wood compared to other cooks. Any recommendations
Hey buddy! On a open offset style smoker my baffle points straight up out of the firebox so everything goes straight to the top. On the reverse flow the baffle plate is horizontal
This was actually a segment of one of our live Q&A’s. I just started a new Patreon channel where I’ll be having these live Q&A’s monthly. Go to patreon.com/smokerbuilder to learn more
![What Kind Of Clear Coat To Use For A Smoker [PitMaster Secrets Podcast: ep. 3-8]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lNfavyqqrtE/mqdefault.jpg)
It is scary on how technical you get with your plethora of knowledge yet you explain it so well & you analogies make it so easy to understand...Thank You!
Thanks! Glad I could help!
As a firefighter, I feel like I’m listening to our burn cadre during our fire behavior class in our burn box and tower on our fire academy. A lot of knowledge and pretty incredible how you tied everything together. Even the Eddy analogy(swift water). Hose and water management. Every firefighter can relate to the terminology here.
Thanks so much bro! 🔥👍🍺
Keep the knowledge coming. I can’t get enough!!!!!!!
🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
Very interesting discussion! 👍🏼
Really interesting video. Been experimenting with different designs on my tiny offset myself, I've settled on a Franklin / Mill Scale design baffle, wide open exchange and a shelf 2" above the grate. I've had good results and great flavor, definitely better than the factory downward lip baffle that caused a marked hot spot in the center of the grate. Cheers!
Awesome! I still have not tried that method yet. there are so many good ideas out there though haha!
@@SmokerBuilder There's truly a ton to play with. So fare I've tested the Franklin design (you can see a picture of it on my insta), the Workhorse design (top half of the exchange covered, downward lip, and two slits between the lip and the shield), and no baffle at all
If I had to be honest and ask you a question at the same time, I've noticed little difference between using a well-designed baffle and no baffle at all-as long as there is at least a small water pan on the cooking grate at the exchange to create some turbulation at the exit; aside from sparing the first third of the cooking grate from getting blasted with direct heat, does having a baffle make a difference at all in an open offset?
Note: mine is a tiny 16x36 1/4" open offset with an oversized stack (4 1/2" x 33") and no collector, although the stack opening is essentially 3" from the food grate because it's just 16" in diameter; the firebox is also oversized at 16x21", and the throat is two overlapping circles with no dams or restrictions, for a total of 78 sq in. I build my fire on the bottom of the round firebox with no grates or baskets, and the pit runs well except for the nuclear hot spot right in the middle if using the factory baffle
Guess I need to change my plans of doing a reverse flow. I use my Weber charcoal grill to smoke and I get that, I'm guessing, white smoke. But because I use chunks with the snake method, it doesn't get over smoked. And I stopped soaking the chunks long ago.
Interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Frank. There are several questions:
1. The analogy with the hose with a pinched finger is clear, but then why do they make huge elbows in many pits, turning into a pipe of a slightly smaller diameter, if the stack is closed by 25-50%?
2. Does an isolated firebox affect "too clean smoke" ?
3. Those whose names cannot be called (lol) often show in commercials that their door is wide open, but do they cook the same way, or is it just a demonstration?
Thanks.
Great question!
On #1- the main difference between elbows and collector boxes is where the most friction loss happens.
They both still have a certain amount of friction loss.
On the elbows there is more at the transition between the smoke stack and the elbow.
On the collector box there is more at the takeoff for the stack where it meets the adapter.
On the elbow there is another point of friction loss if the reducer is used.
Really at the end of the day both styles work really well.
Your damper setting would be changed on the elbow setup possibly more open to get the same result.
I'll cover this in detail on a future episode as I could talk forever lol...
#2 Really it doesn't have any effect on how clean your smoke is.
#3 I have cooked on a couple of this style of smoker and it really depends on the situation and desired temp. I have see some situations where the door is mostly open and others where it is only a couple inches.
Is that a prototype solution pit in the background?
Nope, that’s a pit I built off similar design though probably 4 years ago
Great stuff! Thanks, Frank.
Thanks bro!!
Great video and very informative (Physics of fluids 101). Also, you look like an older "Jack Reacher", are you two related? ;)
Do you have a picture of a upward facing baffle in an open offset so I can see exactly what you mean?
Hey buddy sorry for the late reply, I’ll post a picture of that today in the community section of my channel.
Awesome to know!!!!
Awesome video
good vid dood!!!!
You lost me at "Hello" ha ha ha ha ha ha, good info.
Thanks!
Was a great zoom call! Wish I could do another one
We’ve done 3 so far. Next one will be a couple days before or after Christmas
@@SmokerBuilder tried to sign up for it but said it was full
@@RichWyatt1 really? It shouldn’t be full.
I send out the link manually. Email me and I’ll fix it. admin@smokerplans.net
@@BBQcheese absolutely bro!!
Hey Frank, great video, thank you. would installing a baffle plate keep my briskets from getting to fry on the bottom??
Thanks Keith!
It really depends on what kind of smoker you’re cooking on.
Think about it as far as where the heat source is coming from.
If the heat source is coming from the bottom up then yes the baffle plate under the meat could help.
If you’re thinking about reverseflow type of system, check out some of the designs on our website.
You’ll see a dash line on the image that is where we would place the baffle plate.
If you’re thinking about a traditional offset with tuning plates that you can move around then they would go in the same place as the baffleplate
@@SmokerBuilder cooking on a small offset where I can only get about 2ft away from the fire box!
@@SmokerBuilder Thank you Frank, great reply and very helpful.
Skulle vara bra att se bild , för att förstå, bra film 👍
Wonder if it's possible to fabricate an adjustable baffle plate system to allow complete control throughout the cook chamber???
Sorry adjustable Scoope plate
Frank, or anyone with experience, I’m starting to diy build a UDS and for the charcoal basket I’m adding a chain to lower and extract it. What coatings should I avoid? I know not to use galvanized , but what about zinc plated? Obviously stainless steel would be best but I can’t find any chain that is SS. I could use cable but then I need stoppers or some way to finish the ends. Any suggestions will help. Thanks
Hey buddy I’m sure you’ve already handled this by now as I’m just getting to see this but I always use plain old carbon steel.
It’s just like using any cast iron skillet.
No harmful coatings
Do you burn more wood when using a baffle plate system?
Nope same amount of wood aiming your design is sound
@@SmokerBuilder okay I got the system made for the Oklahoma Joe highland from bbq mods and I felt like it took me forever to get to 250, I was burning peach half splits and for a pork shoulder it took up a lot of wood compared to other cooks. Any recommendations
Before I go cutting off my baffle on my pit will a scoop baffle work well in a traditional offset with an upright at other end like the patio
@@billshepherd1217 absolutely!
I’ll make a post in the community tab on my UA-cam channel of my Bingo pit!
@@billshepherd1217 tagged you
Does the baffle point upwards or downwards?
Hey buddy!
On a open offset style smoker my baffle points straight up out of the firebox so everything goes straight to the top.
On the reverse flow the baffle plate is horizontal
Which podcast episode did this come from?
This was actually a segment of one of our live Q&A’s.
I just started a new Patreon channel where I’ll be having these live Q&A’s monthly.
Go to patreon.com/smokerbuilder to learn more
🤣🤣🤣 I will never get them 10 minutes back..