I enjoyed the video. Your cutting style was spot on for that sawmill device you have by getting on top of it. The positive on side cutting is not having to use wedges all the way down. The negative is it may be harder to get it to cut flat as uniform as a horizontal Alaskan Chainsaw setup. It may be more prone to hitting the dirt and dulling a chain if not careful also. I do like the idea of not having to use wedges. If one is doing a rough lumber project and want to do it quicker the Timber Tuff may be the trick. I myself am getting set up for an Alaskan Mill set up, but I do think that I will get a Timber Tuff as well because I can see that it has a simple set up and could be more useful for different situations or projects.
My Timber Tuff Cutting Guide just arrived at my home today. Can't wait to use it. Loved your video. A ripping chain DEFINITELY would have made a difference. For a Husqvarna 240 to rip through a burly , knotty , super dense grained log of fir , well I'm pretty darn impressed. You could definitely see that your crosscut chain was producing lots of "powder" instead of shavings , I'm sure that your saw needed a really good cleaning and keep an eye on the air filter to protect your saw. Absolutely loved to see your daughter and her goats. I had a goat when I was a little boy , best pet I ever had. "Jim" would come with me in my old Ford PInto , sittin' up in the passenger seat.
You were pushing against the tide from the start with the shape of that log, that thing was brutal. Just a lot of extra live edge cuts you had to do to get to the meat and potatoes of that that log. Carefully pick and choose your tree to mill. Minimum branches, straight as an arrow etc. The less cuts you have to do the better. Get your log higher off the ground. Good demonstration of the tool. Thx!
The log was from a tree i had to take down so I could put in the swimming pool. I was really just playing around and at the time had no use for the boards. Thanks for watching.
I cut mine the same last year .. went back to it and tried dragging the end of the saw along instead . making shallow rip cut.. the end result was much cleaner with no warp
It was definitely a learning curve. They turned out fine and I found a good use for them. I have done a few more logs since then and definitely a ripper chain makes a difference, even on my $200 chainsaw. Thank for watching.
I just tried a new type of chain which is a carbide teeth chain I should of use that along time ago it works very good very impressed stay sharpen all day
Hey brother 👋 thanks for the review. I saw righy away your chain was dull. It was kickin out dust. But im glad you cought it, and sharpened up. And the name type of chain you should use is called a "ripping chain" I just purchased this mill and did some research before hand. Your video helped me decide awhile ago I wanted on, so thank you. Once my ripping chain comes in the mail im gonna try it out for myself. I plan to mill out some guitar bodies from a giant maple that fell, also a few fallen black walnut trees. The grain on the maple has worm holes all in it so I think it would be cool. The balck walnut has a nice white and dark grain contrast, being almost black in the middle. I think it will look beautiful after stain or maybe even some poly. Anyway thank you for the video. It was fun. And its actually almost the same day you filmed this video that I came here today, so I feel things will go really well. Im subscribing btw. That video was done really well. Thanks again. Stay safe. ✌ ✝ ❤
Thanks for the video I have one on the way.Looking forward to trying it ! Cheap enough to get your money's worth and satisfaction of making your own boards! 🇨🇦
I remember a video about using a swing motion to cut more efficiently, I see you used a rocking motion. Thinking of ways to reduce the rubbings. Thanks for the post.
Soft chinesium metal. I suggest putting a sleeve over the bolt (shaft) in the middle. Also tac weld the bolt at the connection between bolt shoulder and chainsaw bar mount. The pin connecting the bolt to the bar is also soft. Or just buy a horizontal type that connects to the bar at two point. I recommend having both types.
Thanks, I’m going to order one ….just to make shelves in the shed and a play house for the kids. I have tree service(free wood) and an old ms391 Just sitting around that might do well with it.
I can't decide between a timber Tuff and a proper chainsaw mill. I do see that you can't get only boards (There will be 1 x 4x4 beam every log). But even that I guess you could rip free hand into a semi rough 2x2x4. The screwing on a board every cut tells me a chainsaw mill would potentially be faster however you need to stop and hammer in falling wedges multiple times working horizontally. I thank you for your video and the insight.
To be honest using an Alaskan mill knocking in wedges takes very little time. What takes much more time is sharpening the saw, as the chain dulls quickly. Milling using this method also requires a smaller saw and a smaller guide bar as Alaskan mills need a good portion of the bars to clamp onto. Good luck regardless of which you choose.
easier to make shallow cuts with this setup. It';s basically the top swinging method for freehand, but with a guide. You want only 2-3 teeth to contact the wood at a time.
Log looks like it's full of knots pretty tough to keep a straight cut with a true log had a strange shape also thinking it might have been a good piece of fire wood. Better luck on your next attempt.
Two or three passes on each cut eases the strain on smaller saws and allows the chain to cut better. If you are getting dust from your cuts, the chain is cutting the chips several times in the process of kicking them out of the cut. Allow the saw to "rest" every 30 seconds and don't run out of gas. Running dry can kill a saw pretty quickly.
You need a ripping chain and you will find a very small hole on each side of the front of the guide bar. These holes are to grease the wheel/sprocket in the tip/front end of your guide bar. You can find a chainsaw grease gun on Ebay.
You could try blue lock tight on the threads to keep them from coming loose, or just keep an eye on them and give them a little tighten more often. Hope what ever you works outs.
@@whynotjusttry5401 bro it came loose and my chain hit the clamp scored it well I tightened it and the clamp broke so I took the two bolts that came with the kit drilled two holes in my bar and wamnm it is solid and true now
Good job, Greg. But you should know better than to use an unsharp chain!! Plus, you should be using a ripping chain, 10 deg. teeth to cut along the grain. A cutting chain will become dull quickly when ripping a log. You're a better plumber!! LOL
@@whynotjusttry5401 Sorry Greg, thought I replied to your message. All is good for the most part, parents are at that age, family is getting smaller on the upper end and bigger on the lower end. Circle of life. Are you still working for Peter or have you moved on as well?
I like your enthousiasme! I hope your chain saw is better than mine. Use a ripper chain and you might have success. Good luck. Let me know how you make out.
I enjoyed the video. Your cutting style was spot on for that sawmill device you have by getting on top of it. The positive on side cutting is not having to use wedges all the way down. The negative is it may be harder to get it to cut flat as uniform as a horizontal Alaskan Chainsaw setup. It may be more prone to hitting the dirt and dulling a chain if not careful also. I do like the idea of not having to use wedges. If one is doing a rough lumber project and want to do it quicker the Timber Tuff may be the trick. I myself am getting set up for an Alaskan Mill set up, but I do think that I will get a Timber Tuff as well because I can see that it has a simple set up and could be more useful for different situations or projects.
My Timber Tuff Cutting Guide just arrived at my home today. Can't wait to use it. Loved your video. A ripping chain DEFINITELY would have made a difference. For a Husqvarna 240 to rip through a burly , knotty , super dense grained log of fir , well I'm pretty darn impressed. You could definitely see that your crosscut chain was producing lots of "powder" instead of shavings , I'm sure that your saw needed a really good cleaning and keep an eye on the air filter to protect your saw. Absolutely loved to see your daughter and her goats. I had a goat when I was a little boy , best pet I ever had. "Jim" would come with me in my old Ford PInto , sittin' up in the passenger seat.
A ripping chain is a game changer, even for the Husqvarna 240.
Thanks for watching.
Goats do make an easy pet.
You were pushing against the tide from the start with the shape of that log, that thing was brutal. Just a lot of extra live edge cuts you had to do to get to the meat and potatoes of that that log. Carefully pick and choose your tree to mill. Minimum branches, straight as an arrow etc. The less cuts you have to do the better. Get your log higher off the ground. Good demonstration of the tool. Thx!
The log was from a tree i had to take down so I could put in the swimming pool.
I was really just playing around and at the time had no use for the boards.
Thanks for watching.
I spent $24.00 Amazon . I clamp it down on a electric chain saw and it worked good. I use a 2x4.
I cut mine the same last year .. went back to it and tried dragging the end of the saw along instead . making shallow rip cut.. the end result was much cleaner with no warp
Looks like you're having a grand time! Trees with knots and branches will always be more difficult to plank, but those boards look fine.
It was definitely a learning curve. They turned out fine and I found a good use for them. I have done a few more logs since then and definitely a ripper chain makes a difference, even on my $200 chainsaw.
Thank for watching.
Agree, the only thing missing on the crow spruce is a curve and the branches
Thank you for taking the time to share your experiences! Greetings from Germany!
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Greetings from Canada!
Nice, one of the very few people to actually use this correct. Nice video!
Really? On that POS log, that’s not propped up.
Dull blade underpowered saw.
But sure form was just fkn fantastic 😂
I just tried a new type of chain which is a carbide teeth chain I should of use that along time ago it works very good very impressed stay sharpen all day
Hey brother 👋 thanks for the review.
I saw righy away your chain was dull. It was kickin out dust. But im glad you cought it, and sharpened up.
And the name type of chain you should use is called a "ripping chain"
I just purchased this mill and did some research before hand.
Your video helped me decide awhile ago I wanted on, so thank you.
Once my ripping chain comes in the mail im gonna try it out for myself.
I plan to mill out some guitar bodies from a giant maple that fell, also a few fallen black walnut trees.
The grain on the maple has worm holes all in it so I think it would be cool.
The balck walnut has a nice white and dark grain contrast, being almost black in the middle. I think it will look beautiful after stain or maybe even some poly.
Anyway thank you for the video. It was fun.
And its actually almost the same day you filmed this video that I came here today, so I feel things will go really well. Im subscribing btw. That video was done really well.
Thanks again. Stay safe.
✌ ✝ ❤
Thank you for watching and I hope it all works out for your guitar bodies.
Good demo for the real world and people who do not have a thousand dollars into a chain saw. Nice to see you can do it with a $200 chainsaw.
Thanks for the video I have one on the way.Looking forward to trying it ! Cheap enough to get your money's worth and satisfaction of making your own boards! 🇨🇦
My thoughts exactly.
Thanks for watching.
That turned out pretty well!😎 Just think how good the boards will turn out next year when you dig out the old Timber Tuff!
Good video and a good dad.
Respect.
I’ll be putting mine to good use this summer making log benches for all of my campers here in Yacolt, WA.
Thanks for watching and your kind words.
I remember a video about using a swing motion to cut more efficiently, I see you used a rocking motion. Thinking of ways to reduce the rubbings. Thanks for the post.
Just ordered this bad boy and am going to study this video
The best simples methods ldeas that we can use on sawmill machines like thus .👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🤩😎
Ya I should try that to, great stuff ,
Nice video, thanks for posting
Thanks for watching.
Soft chinesium metal. I suggest putting a sleeve over the bolt (shaft) in the middle. Also tac weld the bolt at the connection between bolt shoulder and chainsaw bar mount. The pin connecting the bolt to the bar is also soft.
Or just buy a horizontal type that connects to the bar at two point. I recommend having both types.
Very useful, I thank you.
Thanks, I’m going to order one ….just to make shelves in the shed and a play house for the kids. I have tree service(free wood) and an old ms391 Just sitting around that might do well with it.
Should work for you.
I can't decide between a timber Tuff and a proper chainsaw mill. I do see that you can't get only boards (There will be 1 x 4x4 beam every log). But even that I guess you could rip free hand into a semi rough 2x2x4. The screwing on a board every cut tells me a chainsaw mill would potentially be faster however you need to stop and hammer in falling wedges multiple times working horizontally. I thank you for your video and the insight.
Your welcome. I only had 3 trees I needed to do So I went with the timber tough.
To be honest using an Alaskan mill knocking in wedges takes very little time. What takes much more time is sharpening the saw, as the chain dulls quickly.
Milling using this method also requires a smaller saw and a smaller guide bar as Alaskan mills need a good portion of the bars to clamp onto.
Good luck regardless of which you choose.
easier to make shallow cuts with this setup. It';s basically the top swinging method for freehand, but with a guide. You want only 2-3 teeth to contact the wood at a time.
thats what i was thinking!
I have the timber tough but I use a different angle on the chain
Log looks like it's full of knots pretty tough to keep a straight cut with a true log had a strange shape also thinking it might have been a good piece of fire wood. Better luck on your next attempt.
If you score the full length of the log two or three times before you make the whole plank cut it will work easier.
I have tried that was well. It is easier, but I find the cut does not look as nice.
Two or three passes on each cut eases the strain on smaller saws and allows the chain to cut better. If you are getting dust from your cuts, the chain is cutting the chips several times in the process of kicking them out of the cut. Allow the saw to "rest" every 30 seconds and don't run out of gas. Running dry can kill a saw pretty quickly.
It looks good
Very useful if you set it up correctly
You need a ripping chain and you will find a very small hole on each side of the front of the guide bar. These holes are to grease the wheel/sprocket in the tip/front end of your guide bar. You can find a chainsaw grease gun on Ebay.
Bro just got mine out today first time and the bar mount came loose and wrecked my chain any ideals on how to make set screws hold better
You could try blue lock tight on the threads to keep them from coming loose, or just keep an eye on them and give them a little tighten more often.
Hope what ever you works outs.
@@whynotjusttry5401 bro it came loose and my chain hit the clamp scored it well I tightened it and the clamp broke so I took the two bolts that came with the kit drilled two holes in my bar and wamnm it is solid and true now
@@philliplucion4262 that sucks, but your fix sounds like a good one.
@@whynotjusttry5401 bro I've got two 6 by 8 beams and one 6 by 12 so far but it's definitely a labor of love I will put some vids up this week
@@philliplucion4262 it definitely takes some work to get any boards cut.
A ripper chain is definitely an asset to this process as well.
Good job, Greg. But you should know better than to use an unsharp chain!! Plus, you should be using a ripping chain, 10 deg. teeth to cut along the grain. A cutting chain will become dull quickly when ripping a log.
You're a better plumber!! LOL
Thanks Dave.
Your right. I do know better, but I just wanted to try.
How have you been.
@@whynotjusttry5401 Sorry Greg, thought I replied to your message. All is good for the most part, parents are at that age, family is getting smaller on the upper end and bigger on the lower end. Circle of life. Are you still working for Peter or have you moved on as well?
Nice job. I'm going to be trying this on an oak log. You cautioned against it, but why not just try? :)
I like your enthousiasme!
I hope your chain saw is better than mine.
Use a ripper chain and you might have success.
Good luck.
Let me know how you make out.
Genial, quiero una. Saludos desde Perú
Thanks for watching.
Why you have to cut backwards??
Just screw a boar onto remaining beam and you can continue to mill out 1" boards
Very cool 👍🏼
I’m still sore from cutting this, but it is worth it.
Thanks for watching.
De colombis como lo consigo
Need ripping chain - 10 degree angle 😅
ripping chain is 10º
Seesaw technique no ! Keep it vertical
get a chainsaw that matches that helmet and I think it would go faster!
Lol, I will.
Hard to make candy out of dog shit.
Chain is dull but nice toy
Also not the correct chain for rippling, but it did the trick.
Thanks for watching.
@@whynotjusttry5401 it did do the trick thanks for sharing