What I like about this video is you're not afraid to say, 'hey we made a mistake and here's how we fixed it". Many videos show only the clean version e.g. perfection. Another renovator said "you will make mistakes". That's a much better attitude and it allows us DIYs to not put too much pressure on ourselves. Plus the dude narrating has a calm voice - easy to watch video. Liked.
You hit the nail on the head! Mistakes are inevitable - it’s all about how you can fix your mistakes and sometimes hide them haha! Thanks for watching 😁
One challenge I wonder how you handled which is what to do with the wires? You shouldn't "notch" the center of a joist -- they should go through the middle. Curious how you handled that.
Good question! Once we got to renovating the basement, we hired an electrician that cleaned up all the wires. A lot of them were no longer in use and could be removed entirely as they went to the demolished section of the kitchen. Check out my more recent video of spraying the basement ceiling to see how it all looked in the end!
Good video, I needed advice on the double headers for a stairs, yours was perfect. A bit of advice back for you. If you had lifted the right hand side of the joist with your rope, so that it was only a inch inside the hanger, you would not have needed the sledge hammer on the left side. By dropping the right side full in, you created a wedge,
Thank you! And we actually had to do it that way since there is no hanger on the right side. That side was going in between the top plate of the basement wall and bottom plate of the first floor wall so it had to be hammered into position
@@GoldenKeyDesign you still miss the geometry. Ypu had the joist at a 15° angle , which meant the top right of the joist was against the wall , but 10 inches down , the bottom of the joist was 2 inches from the wall. You were sledge hammering that 2 inches. If you had used the rope to keep the joist level, above floor level and then dropped it evenly into place, there would have been no sledge.
@@Jeremy64444 I wish I could show you a picture. The joist had to be slid into position horizontally on the right hand side. You could not 'drop' it into position since there was no hanger on that side. It had to sit on top of the top plate of the basement wall and underneath the bottom plate of the first floor wall. Sledge was the only way, I'm sure of it haha!
Could have screwed couple of pieces of plywood to the bottom of existing joists to catch the new joists, should be very helpful to the drop in process.
Yes you can, but it’s complicated. You would need to build a temporary wall to support all the floor joists as you cut them to frame out the opening. You then would add a double rim joist in the same way I did and then reattached all the floor joists to that new rim joist. Hope that makes sense. Best to have a contractor come take a look at your specific situation since each project is a little different.
I'm looking to do this in a future project and this helps a ton! Did you get the structural work inspected? If not, how do you know if things are structurally sound and that load is correctly distributed especially for a staircase?
Thanks for watching! During this process, I worked directly with the stair manufacturer to make sure we were aligned and framing it out correctly down to the 1/16”. This framing technique is quite common - adding a double rim joist to the sides of the hole. We also had the main load of the staircase directly on the large LVL header in the basement so we knew it was solid. I would still get yours inspected by a structural engineer to be on the safe side. Hope that helps!
We thought about it, but we did a surprisingly great job! I think it actually turned out better than if we hired someone out since we took a lot of care with the project
What I like about this video is you're not afraid to say, 'hey we made a mistake and here's how we fixed it". Many videos show only the clean version e.g. perfection. Another renovator said "you will make mistakes". That's a much better attitude and it allows us DIYs to not put too much pressure on ourselves.
Plus the dude narrating has a calm voice - easy to watch video. Liked.
You hit the nail on the head! Mistakes are inevitable - it’s all about how you can fix your mistakes and sometimes hide them haha! Thanks for watching 😁
Very helpful video. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you, appreciate it!
I like this video, thanks
Glad you liked it!
One challenge I wonder how you handled which is what to do with the wires? You shouldn't "notch" the center of a joist -- they should go through the middle. Curious how you handled that.
Good question! Once we got to renovating the basement, we hired an electrician that cleaned up all the wires. A lot of them were no longer in use and could be removed entirely as they went to the demolished section of the kitchen. Check out my more recent video of spraying the basement ceiling to see how it all looked in the end!
Good video, I needed advice on the double headers for a stairs, yours was perfect.
A bit of advice back for you.
If you had lifted the right hand side of the joist with your rope, so that it was only a inch inside the hanger, you would not have needed the sledge hammer on the left side. By dropping the right side full in, you created a wedge,
Thank you! And we actually had to do it that way since there is no hanger on the right side. That side was going in between the top plate of the basement wall and bottom plate of the first floor wall so it had to be hammered into position
@@GoldenKeyDesign you still miss the geometry. Ypu had the joist at a 15° angle , which meant the top right of the joist was against the wall , but 10 inches down , the bottom of the joist was 2 inches from the wall. You were sledge hammering that 2 inches. If you had used the rope to keep the joist level, above floor level and then dropped it evenly into place, there would have been no sledge.
@@Jeremy64444 I wish I could show you a picture. The joist had to be slid into position horizontally on the right hand side. You could not 'drop' it into position since there was no hanger on that side. It had to sit on top of the top plate of the basement wall and underneath the bottom plate of the first floor wall. Sledge was the only way, I'm sure of it haha!
@@GoldenKeyDesign what if you had lowered it in sideways on an angle, then flipped upright? That might have been an option?
Could have screwed couple of pieces of plywood to the bottom of existing joists to catch the new joists, should be very helpful to the drop in process.
Great idea! Hindsight is 20/20 😂
Excellant work
Thank you, appreciate it!
Can I install a stairway perpendicular to the ceiling joists? Yours is parallel.
Yes you can, but it’s complicated. You would need to build a temporary wall to support all the floor joists as you cut them to frame out the opening. You then would add a double rim joist in the same way I did and then reattached all the floor joists to that new rim joist. Hope that makes sense. Best to have a contractor come take a look at your specific situation since each project is a little different.
Carpentry is good and so is material handling via ropes.Where was the old stair case, if any?
Where did you get hangers for a double header??? I only see those designed for 1.5in dimention
They sell a variety of sizes at most big box stores. There are usually single, double, and even triple in stock
Great works
Thank you so much 😊
I'm looking to do this in a future project and this helps a ton! Did you get the structural work inspected? If not, how do you know if things are structurally sound and that load is correctly distributed especially for a staircase?
Thanks for watching! During this process, I worked directly with the stair manufacturer to make sure we were aligned and framing it out correctly down to the 1/16”. This framing technique is quite common - adding a double rim joist to the sides of the hole. We also had the main load of the staircase directly on the large LVL header in the basement so we knew it was solid. I would still get yours inspected by a structural engineer to be on the safe side. Hope that helps!
I would have replaced all the moldy insulation
Cutting a notch for the electric line weaked the board to where you just as well to have used the 2x8.
I think you should have hired a professional carpenter to help you out!!
We thought about it, but we did a surprisingly great job! I think it actually turned out better than if we hired someone out since we took a lot of care with the project
Do you have a video on the stair case build that goes through this hole?
Yep! Check out episodes 10, 11, and 12 to see the whole process!
DIY at it's best. But quite a few you code violations.
No more nails is shit. Should be using construction adhesive for framing applications
Thanks for the tip!
so what youtube video did you watch before making this video?
I’m smh watching your helper work in open toed sandals?
I know 😂 that’s my dad and I always tell him to wear proper shoes/boots but he ignores me…