Don;t forget if you want to sell your sports photos please take a look at GeoSnapShot.com. We've just introduced Face recognition, Bib Recognition and Event time to filter photos. In addition we offer free public liability Insurance for all our photographers (excluding North America at this time)
I'm not a photographer but have been taking photos using a camera that's come into my possession. This tutorial is making a lot of sense for a total beginner! Thank you.
That's great! You make it so simple. I have worked most of this out after years of trial and (more often) error, always using shutter priority for sports. Now I will try full manual. A major thing, for me, was getting the auto-focus setting right, and you have confirmed what I thought. Blurred player, with pin-sharp advertising boards behind him, are a thing of the past. I hope.
Lol, youtube recommends really interesting stuff lately ;) I like your approach to sport photography (I'm a self-taught photographer for nearly 20 years now), although if it's still relevant for you after 4 years, the first thing I learnt with my 350D (the PowerShot G6 wasn't really strong in it and I was 12 at the time anyway...) is that whatever you shoot at, you always - can't emphasize enough - ALWAYS use RAW. There are over 128GB CF and SD cards (I have a 7D Mk I for almost 6 years or so, it eats only CF), but even with my 32GB CF card I have over a 1000 pic space (1012 to be precise), and I never ran out of space. Swapping a memory card takes literally 5-10 seconds, you won't miss anything if you prepared enough, but the benefits of RAW can't be appreciated enough. Related to that is one of the most important lesson I learnt, and I did it on the hard way - mainly because I've had "principles" - is that there is no perfect picture. No matter what you do, how long and how hard you try, you will use some kind of editor (I still prefer PS over GIMP), and that's where JPEG will stab you in the back. If it's only a quick color correction, or some contrast and lightning adjustments, if you don't have every single color in every possible shades in your picture already, you'll have a really hard time to create anything acceptable. It's not impossible, it's just a matter of how many scrap pictures you put on your shutter count, and as you might know as a sport photographer yourself, shutter count isn't last long enough to be able to afford thousands of scrap pictures. But apart of that, I totally agree with anything else you said in the video, it sounds absolutely fine for the purpose.
I'm an amateur photographer at best, and recently, I attended a track meet for one of the grandkids and wanted to make some lasting memories. Your settings came in handy. Thanks a lot!
Hi! Great glad you found them useful. If you want to distribute those photos use our photo sales platform that has been specifically designed for sports. Check it out at www.GeoSnapShot.com
Brilliant video easy to follow and understand. I have just upgraded my canon 60d to a 7dmkii .I shoot motorsport and have set my camera defaults to which you suggest to get a new base line . Thanks for posting this video very helpful
Thank you for the video! I just purchased a Canon 80D which is very similar to your camera! So getting everything set up for an upcoming photo shoot was breezy! Thank you again!
Thanks for the advice, I thought there was something wrong with my 70-200 it looks like my settings were wrong though. I agree with everyone about shooting JPEG it's a no.
This was very useful. I'm the proud owner of a "new" used 1DX Mark III, to go along with my 7D, and I'm looking forward to doing some sports photography with it. Thanks for posting these settings!
Awesome! Glad to help. If you're taking sports photos and want to share or sell them be sure to check out www.GeoSnapShot.com. We've got world-leading face recognition technology so people at your sports events can find themselves quickly and easily.
Great video thanks very much. I am a quadriplegic and just upgraded my Canon T 70 many years ago to a 500 D and now to a 750 D because I take photos using my old Canon T 70 T3 adapter and converted it to use on the 500 D and 750 D and uses a shutter release connected to a lens cleaning kit blower brush bulb and I bite on it to take photos it works fantastic. Also unfortunately I have to use an all in one 16-300 mm lens which I didn't know existed until recently instead of using the lens kit I had previously and was annoyed having to change lenses and take one or the other before leaving home. Would love to upgrade to a higher model can't waste time at the moment looking for somebody to adapt to new style of camera remote connection. Anyway will try your settings. Unfortunately tried sports mode motor racing event in Sydney and didn't come out as was expected and looking at tutorials found out is not the way to go. Some others use the AV mode instead of TV so was very interested to see your settings. Thanks a lot and will try them out regards Mark Sydney Australia.
Your video was very helpful. I have not used my Canon 70D for a few years, so I needed a refresher. This camera has so many possible settings. Your suggestions will improve my shots of tomorrow's Dragon boat races. Thanks.
Finally a sports photographer who recommends you shoot in JPEG !! It's ridiculous to recommend that you shoot in RAW due to the amount of post processing that is required. Shoot 3000 pictures in RAW and you will be bogged down forever processing them. Let's face it most of never have our photos published and they only appear on social media so there is no need for using RAW.Also agree to shoot to set your aperture and shutter speed then use Auto ISO. This way you can ensure you have the correct shutter speed to freeze action and the amount of background blur you desire.Using aperture priority results in too many photos having motion blur unless you are always adjusting for changing lighting conditions.
THANK YOU! I got some great shots at our school basketball game! I used shutter priority and I was really impressed. I shot with a Canon 6Dii and 85mm 1.2
Excellent Bobby! That's great news. We've also built GeoSnapShot to help sports photographers share and sell their photos. It's free to use!! Check it out here: geosnapshot.com/
Ha, ha! Thanks Lauren, that's such a lovely feedback. We have plenty more to give. Join www.GeoSnaphShot.com and we'll show you how to make money from your hobby as well :)
Most camera shoot far more jpeg before filling the buffer than RAW, and they clear the buffer faster. Most Pro sports photographers shoot jpeg for this and other reasons.
Most pro sports photographers are more concerned with he time they have to get to publisher, and the quality of image needed for that , and jpg is better for that. I used to shoot a lot of race track stuff before I retired, and rarely filled the buffer when panning at 8fps, even shooting raw most of the time.
Most pro sports photographers are only using the photos for low resolution uses they are not worried about losing pixels . I think the guy in the video is talking to moms and dads taking photos of there kids ,so raw would be the way to go to be able to edit the photo as much as possible to get a good final photo .
No problem, thank you! This video has given me renewed confidence, so much so that I used your advice when photographing my company's entry in a soapbox derby recently and they've used them on their website! Thank you and keep up the good work!
Mate I am in LOVE with this video. Your explanations are excellent particularly on auto focus points. I shoot a lot of Australian Rules Football, I have a Grandson who plays, and I think you have solved my "a little bit soft" problem by choosing the point just above centre so that, hopefully. the face is where the camera will focus because the action changes in direction and distance so quickly that a lot of the time it just misses sharp focus because I am aiming at the centre of the seen mass, Army talk lol. The only thing I disagree with is your preference for shooting in JPG other than RAW. Memory is cheaper these days although I must admit time is a factor to load if your keeping the finger on the trigger. But I don't seem to have a problem with that probably because I learnt on film back in the day. Much appreciated thank you !!!!
Great Peter. We run the GeoSnapShot platform so all those photos of Aussie Rules can be shared/sold via GeoSnapShot. There is no subscription free so it's free to use. I imagine you have an archive of photos from games. Now that everyone has the time it's worth uploading all those photos from past games and sharing with the club/players.
Most sports photographers shoot jpeg. The reasons for this can be down to the buffer and image storage, to that of sending images from the camera to your mobile phone or laptop or computer, most press sports photographers require the images to get out there into the wider world community so speed is more important than having a raw file that takes time plus internal camera power. There are however times when shooting raw is advantageous but that comes down to the type of event, conditions and light, the experience of the user and is it relevant. Overall, raw is not the be all and end all. The video herein is correct, again the saliant point was made at the beginning which most folk failed to listen to.
Wrong, that is depend on the media company you work with, I'm shoot with RAW and Jpeg. With Raw files we have proof of evidence our pics are genuine and not altered with editing software. In Journalistic is very taboo to altered the pics.
even crop if that is cause different story of the photo is forbidden. white balance, exposure, saturation is allowed. Altered not allowed eg. take off the hearing aid, take away/put on another object to the photo.
640 shutter minimum if possible... An f2.8 lens... Wait for action to be in the lighter areas of the pitch if its particularly bad... need a decent camera that copes with high iso's
Awesome, Ted. Don't forget you can use GeoSnapShot.com to share or sell photos easily and quickly from your soccer game. Players can use face recognition to find their photos quickly and easily.
I have a Canon 5D Mk IV with a Canon 70-200 mm F 2.8. I shoot high school American football that starts from dusk to the evening hours under the lights. My settings are: ISO : 100 - 16000 Mode Dial : M Aperture : F 2.8 fixed Shutter Speed : 1/1000 fixed Picture Style : Fine Detail Drive Mode : High Speed Continuous AF Operation : AI Servo The only adjustment I make is the ISO when I shoot when afternoon sun is still up onto the evening when stadium lights are being used.. Works fine for me.
Thank you for the very best of all regarding sports and the camera focus and active parts you make it 110% easy to understand even for an old man like myself? I CALL IT (SIMPLE) KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID! IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT!
Hi, no, you should stick with Auto Focus nearly 100% of the time. The AF system is very advanced and should get you the best results nearly all of the time. See our other blog for camera tips and selling photos at geosnapshot.com/blog/
Decent video as a starting point, but you missed covering autofocus cases, and use of RAW or JPEG is not predicated on the size of the files (use bigger cards) but the need to pull the detail from highlights and shadows for certain applications (e.g. SI uses RAW, newspapers use JPEG).
Good points Keith. It's hard to cover everything in one video that people will watch. So Autofocus may well be another video. In terms of RAW, yes I agree, as many posts have said it not about size of files (or size of cards available). Thanks for your comments.
Hi i set up my canon 7d for surf photography with expand af and ai servo,I was taking some practice shots of a windmill near my house but when i hold down the shutter half way it does not beep or the focus points do not light up.Im left wondering am i doing something wrong or is that just the way al servo works.When i change to ai focus mode i hear beeps when i hold down the shutter half way and the focus points light up.Is ai servo on my camera working properly.It actualy does say in the manual that the camera will not beep in ai servo mode.I find this very strange and i dont like it.Ihave a ef 70-300ml lens on my 7d.What do you think is it working properly and i will just have to get used to it or is thr something wrong?
Great video! I try not to use Auto ISO unless you are outdoors and it is a day game with clouds that are changing too often to keep up with setting your ISO manually. You risk really grainy shots using Auto ISO at night with a 1250 shutter speed and your aperture at > F4..
Hello Not sure if you will see this as it's quite an old video. Which was very easy to gollow and make the settings changes for a beginner. Can I ask I'm using a cannon eos600d it's quite old with a cannon 55/250 cannon lens. The TV and manual settings you recommend. Why would you use one over the other on anygivrn day at say a football game?? Thanks
Hi glad you liked the video. Yep, it's old but still viewed regularly. If yoru camera has Auto ISO I would use manual. Otherwise, use TV with the settings I've given. Good luck with the football photos and don't forget to register on www.GeoSnapshot.com to upload, share and sell your photos to the players. There is no fee for using GeoSnapShot.
I am sorry, but your description of the all AF points mode is incorrect. You can select the initial starting point. In fact, you see it as the highlighted AF point just above the center.
Hi Bob, I haven't done a video on indoor sports setting yet.... perhaps I'll do one of those soon. However you may find this helpful ua-cam.com/video/xW9JQbJ8uLs/v-deo.html
Awesome! Don;t forget to check out www.GeoSnapShot.com as a place to upload and sell your photos. We've just launched face recognition making it even easier for people to find (and buy) photos of themselves!
I shoot middle school and high school indoor and outdoor sports photography with a Canon 6D Mark II and Tamron 70-200mm 2.8 lens. I have the camera focus point set in the center of the view finder for taking images in a horizontal scene. It never occurred to me until i watched this video that when I turn the camera to a vertical scene that my focus point in the center will not be where I want it for a vertical photograph. Is there a setting to save two different focus points without changing from landscape to portrait ? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I'm gad you enjoyed the video! I'm not familiar with the 6DII but the 7DII has a differnt focal point setting for portrait and lanscape automaticlaly. Simply hold the camera in portrait and set the focal point, then turn the camera landscape and set the focal point at a differnt place. Now, when you move the camera you shuold see the focal point change automatically. That's how it works on the 7D. By the way if you take school and and sports photos you should have a look at selling or sharing those through our wessite (www.geosnapshot.com) which has been specifically built for school and sports photography. Just reach out to our support team if you need any help.
Fantastic video thanks for posting, it's been really helpful as I'm just starting out in sports photography. One quick question though. When setting the AF point selection in Expanded AF Area, in landscape I've set it as you have shown (top middle), but your comment about setting it in Portrait, if I move the selection area over to the right middle will it automatically defer to this area when I hold the camera in Portrait mode ?, and then automatically go back to top middle when I turn the camera back to landscape, or do you have to manually move the point selection area each time you turn the camera ?
Hi Mark, good to hear it was useful. I use a Canon 7D ii. It has something called "orientation linked AF point" where you can set the position of the default AF point in landscape and portrait separately. This is great for quickly being able to reposition your camera and focus point without having to physically move the AF point. On the back of this video we've also created a great website for when you're ready to sell or share your photos. Take a look at www.GeoSnapShot.com. You can ask us a ton of questions via support there as well.
@@geosnapshot1393 thanks so much for coming back to me, and for your help, I've now found the menu and set the AF points to how i want them 😃 (I too have a 7D Mark ii and am really impressed with it). I'll take a look at your website too. Many thanks once again, and keep up the great work
Hi again and thanks for the fast answer, I will get a Canon 60 D the following days, I believe it’s an improvement from the canon 40 D, any lens recommendation for indoor sports and outdoor sports and wildlife , Regards and thanks very much for you Profesional guidance.
Hi Bob, You'll find indoor sports photography harder than outdoor photography. This is mainly because of the available light. The settings above are mainly for outdoor photography. I'll try and do a video soon about indoor sports photography. A 70-200mm is still a very good option for indoor photography. If you can get close to the action then you may consider a wider lens, say 15-85mm. When selecting a lens for indoor you should aim fo the lowest f-number (widest apature) you can afford i.e. f/2.8. If you're shoot sports you should look at joining my website www.GeoSnapShot.com for a place to sell you photos :)
Hi Very helpful vid. Just setting mine up and I cant seem to get the AF point selection screen on the rear display,only through the view finder. Is there a setting I'm missing?
Hi, Thanks for your question. You can access the the AF point selection through the camera menu system. It's not available from the "Q" menu (on a Canon) on the back screen so simply scroll through the menus until you get to "AF Point Selection" and you should be good.
I have a Canon 7d mark 1. I can't set my shutter at 1250. I can only set my shutter speed to either 1000 or 1500 ? What would you recommend out of these two choices. Thanks in advance.
Hi @@jasonclark950 I assume by "TV Mode" you mean video mode as opposed to still shooting on the back of the camera. You should absolutely use still shooting and use the viewfinder. Your battery will not last very long if you use the screen at the back. You should definitely be able to set 1/1250. It a bit strange that you can't. However 1/1000 would be fine as well. Let me know how you go. I have a 7D mark 1 so can dig it out if needed to show you.
@@jasonclark950 Arrrhh, sorry, yes TV mode = Shutter priority. As the video suggests I would try Full manual mode "M' and set your ISO to auto. Use the setting in the video for manual and see how you go. You should definitely be able to set 1/1250 shutter speed.
Hello GeoSnapShot, Thank you for your very informative video. Good tips for a lot of people wishing to improve their photography. I also have a question. While showing on how to select and move the selected areas around the 61 or so focused points... How do you get to see it on back screen? I have a 5D III and I don't know how to see the same. Thank you in advance.
Hi, Very good question! You need to press the "info" button repeatedly on the back of your camera until you get something that looks like the "Q" menu screen (but is not the "Q" menu screen). When you get to that screen using the "info" button press the right hand top button at the back of the camera. It is to the right hand side of the button marked "*". Does that work for you?
Hi. Thanks for the great, well explained video. I just changed all of my manual settings on my Canon EOS1100D for shotting photographs of my kids sports games. However, I noticed that they seemed quite over exposed. It was a netball court on a light grey court. I am thinking if it were a footy game it might have been ok. Should I change the settings based on the sport?
Are you shooting manual? Have you set your Shutter speed at 1/1250? And aperture at say 4.0. If so an overexposed photo is usually down to too much light. Try increasing your shutter speed to 1/2000. Does that make a difference? You will need different settings for outdoor and indoor sports but in general, all outdoor sports will be OK for different sports.
Hello, I’m trying to get up my 7D mark ii for sport but when I select the q in the square and goto the bottom left corner where the setting it “Meant” to be AI SERVO I don’t have that option? I can’t change it from MF for some reason? Does anyone know why this might be the case? Thank you.
very good video with clear considerations about the camera setting. It could be interesting to define the camera settings for the shoot in the environments with artificial lights, e.g. pools with waterpolo matches.
Hi, if you watch the video again you'll see that I set ISO on Auto specifically for the reason you mention. Auto ISO is your friend and will help you get perfectly exposed photos every time. I explain all the settings in the video.
@@geosnapshot1393 you don't explain what you set your auto ISO settings to, hence the reason I asked....... You can set them from 100 to 400... You can set them up from 500 to 1600... You can set them up to whatever. So... Thanks for explaining the obvious.
@@richlaw5136 Sorry, I didn't understand your original question. I think my 7Dii can be set from 100 to 1600 ISO in Manual Mode so that's what I use. If yours can only be set up for 100 to 400 and 500 to 1600 that's unusual. If that's the case I'd use 100 to 400 and close the aperture a bit to make sure you're always shooting in that ISO band. I hope that helps.
You might be able to get away with something slower than 1/1000. Yes, I would use lowest f-stop. Good luck and I hope to see you selling photos on GeoSnapShot.com
changing the image format from raw to jpeg is useful in case your camera doesn't have a big buffer, in my case a canon 600d can do a maximum of 6 raw shots before slowing down and waiting for the card to write. But when i switched to jpeg i counted 13 shots and i think it could go on and on.
I come to you from the future where cards can now hold thousands and thousands of photos and theres no need to shoot jpg only unless youre a professional that needs to send them off in real time!
Never mind. Your video is clear in all aspects. It was just the position of taking Landscape, Portrait, etc. photos. The position of your camera in this video takes photos in black and white.
how flattering! I did try selling my photos. It failed on me. Parents have other expenses, photos were excluded. Now, since I am an amateur, and photography is a hobby for me, I give them away. Thank you for the offer! You are a magnificent Tutor!
Hi I just bought a canon 28-300 use lens on a canon 750d and keep getting err 1 seems ok in sports but keep freezing and err msg 01 am I doing something wrong been using tamron 16-300 for about a year and no probs any ideas thanks
Hi. great video very helpful. I just have one question at approx 5.28 in the video you can see on your lcd that exposure comp is what your adjusting but I recently got a 5d mkiii and mine is only adjusting aeb. please can you tell me how to change that setting as I cant find in the menu.thanks stacey
Hi Stacey, You should find all the information your after here. cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/exposure_settings/exposure_compensation.do?page=2
I have the same question, I have the 5d mkiii also and I can't figure out how you were able to get it to adjust exposure comp is manual mode. I do not get the + - like you do in the video at 5:28 on the Q menu while in manual mode. I reviewed the link you provided and that just talks about generic exposure comp settings (which I can do in every mode except manual). The reason I need to do this is because I want to set aperture and shutter speed while having ISO set to auto (due to constantly changing lighting in outdoor sports photography, ie.. shade/sun, and don't have time to try out ISO settings while the action is happening). At the same time I sometimes need to compensate for exposure due to backgrounds, etc. How in the heck do you change the exposure comp in manual mode like you did in the video? Thanks in advance.
Hi Kimberley, use the camera in the mode the settings were made. For example, if you went for manual settings then take photos in manual mode. Let us know how you got on. Thanks.
Hi there, thanks for the video, according to your experience do you have any advice regarding a Canon 40 d for sports and wildlife in terms of lenses? Thanks in advance, regards Bob Lee.
Hi Bob, if money is not an option I would go for a 300mm to 400mm lens for sports and wildlife. However, personally, my goto lens for sports and wildlife is a 70-200 ii f2.8. It's an amazingly sharp lens. If I need more zoom I've also got a 1.4x converter.
At 4:16 why did you take the iso out of auto and put it at 800? Why didn't you just set the auto iso range from 100 to 800 so it could pick what it needed for the shutter and aperture you pick . I have a pentax camera and it has a TVa setting on the dial . When its in that mode it lets you set the aperture you want and the shutter speed you want and it picks the iso needed to get the correct exposure . You can set the iso range you want the iso to go to for example 100 to 800. I haven't seen this dial option on either canon or nikon for some reason . The TVa mode is a iso priority mode . When you were going over the auto iso you should have let people know that if your iso is on auto that it can pick any iso it needs to get the correct exposure no matter how hi it goes and it could get into a lot of noise ,so setting a limit on the iso is very important . To keep the iso from going to hi you need to set its range ,and you have to decide what noise your happy with . You don't want to just set the iso to auto without setting a limit . I like the TVa mode for sports because once you set the shutter speed and Aperture you want you don't have to keep changing it to get the correct exposure . All you have to do is shoot and you know its going to be at the correct exposure and a warning light flashes if the iso range limit is met to let me know I need to either change the aperture or shutter speed to get the correct exposure to the set iso limit . Everyone needs to know what iso limit they are happy with . Every camera is different ,so before you go out and shoot anything take the time to test the iso limits you can live with . Some people are happy with a lot of noise and others are not . learn what your noise editing software is capable of . The newer ones do a pretty good job of saving really hi iso photos . The lower you can keep the iso the less noise you will get in your photos so keep the iso low . One other thing don't tell people to shoot in jpeg . You can get a 32 g card for just about nothing now and shooting in raw gives you 100 times better control of processing and photos that don't lose pixels . With the cards memory sizes today no one should ever shoot in jpeg . even cell phones have raw setting ,so leave your camera in raw when shooting sports or anything as far as that goes . Most newer cameras can shoot 8 fps until the card is full with little to no buffer time . You didn't buy that 24 megapixel camera to shoot a 6 megapixel photo did you ? So use the full 24 megapixels, shoot in raw .
Thanks for your comment Steve. at 4:16 of the video we're talking about a camera that doesn't have auto ISO. When using the settings I've given for outdoor photography it's very unlikely to get into an ISO above 800. So no need here to explain noise here. When discussing RAW it's not actually the space that the issue. Many cameras shoot a much lower frame per second in RAW and also take longer to clear the buffer. Also, the post-event edit time is much longer if you're going to process thousands of RAW photos. Many Sports photographers will shoot thousands of photos a day. You'll find many sports photographers don't shoot in RAW .
Your subjects in street photography will move slower (so your shutter speed will be thankful), but then it really depends on the lighting you'll have, so it's not possible to answer that question. Each situation is completely different. Look at your exposure metering or histogram and you'll see if you're underexposed or over exposed, and go from there.
it seems that most professional shooters use jpeg. They are not going to be manipulating images in post and more than likely will be sending them to news desks via wifi links. Hence if you are doing this for hobby photos use raw otherwise use jpeg.
Don;t forget if you want to sell your sports photos please take a look at GeoSnapShot.com.
We've just introduced Face recognition, Bib Recognition and Event time to filter photos.
In addition we offer free public liability Insurance for all our photographers (excluding North America at this time)
I'm not a photographer but have been taking photos using a camera that's come into my possession. This tutorial is making a lot of sense for a total beginner! Thank you.
That's great! You make it so simple. I have worked most of this out after years of trial and (more often) error, always using shutter priority for sports. Now I will try full manual. A major thing, for me, was getting the auto-focus setting right, and you have confirmed what I thought. Blurred player, with pin-sharp advertising boards behind him, are a thing of the past. I hope.
Lol, youtube recommends really interesting stuff lately ;)
I like your approach to sport photography (I'm a self-taught photographer for nearly 20 years now), although if it's still relevant for you after 4 years, the first thing I learnt with my 350D (the PowerShot G6 wasn't really strong in it and I was 12 at the time anyway...) is that whatever you shoot at, you always - can't emphasize enough - ALWAYS use RAW. There are over 128GB CF and SD cards (I have a 7D Mk I for almost 6 years or so, it eats only CF), but even with my 32GB CF card I have over a 1000 pic space (1012 to be precise), and I never ran out of space. Swapping a memory card takes literally 5-10 seconds, you won't miss anything if you prepared enough, but the benefits of RAW can't be appreciated enough.
Related to that is one of the most important lesson I learnt, and I did it on the hard way - mainly because I've had "principles" - is that there is no perfect picture. No matter what you do, how long and how hard you try, you will use some kind of editor (I still prefer PS over GIMP), and that's where JPEG will stab you in the back. If it's only a quick color correction, or some contrast and lightning adjustments, if you don't have every single color in every possible shades in your picture already, you'll have a really hard time to create anything acceptable. It's not impossible, it's just a matter of how many scrap pictures you put on your shutter count, and as you might know as a sport photographer yourself, shutter count isn't last long enough to be able to afford thousands of scrap pictures.
But apart of that, I totally agree with anything else you said in the video, it sounds absolutely fine for the purpose.
I'm an amateur photographer at best, and recently, I attended a track meet for one of the grandkids and wanted to make some lasting memories. Your settings came in handy. Thanks a lot!
Hi! Great glad you found them useful. If you want to distribute those photos use our photo sales platform that has been specifically designed for sports. Check it out at www.GeoSnapShot.com
Brilliant video easy to follow and understand.
I have just upgraded my canon 60d to a 7dmkii .I shoot motorsport and have set my camera defaults to which you suggest to get a new base line .
Thanks for posting this video very helpful
Thank you for the video! I just purchased a Canon 80D which is very similar to your camera! So getting everything set up for an upcoming photo shoot was breezy! Thank you again!
I think I found this video best, to explain about camera settings. Simple and clear.
Thanks for the advice, I thought there was something wrong with my 70-200 it looks like my settings were wrong though. I agree with everyone about shooting JPEG it's a no.
This was very useful. I'm the proud owner of a "new" used 1DX Mark III, to go along with my 7D, and I'm looking forward to doing some sports photography with it. Thanks for posting these settings!
Wow, I've watched several sports settings tutorials and this old video is the best. Thorough and to the point. Thank you!
Ha, ha.. thanks TC. What you want to do next is use our website to share or sell your photos! Have a look at www.geosnaphshot.com
Very good video. I was beginning to think something was wrong with my Canon 70-200 but these settings helped me get VERY sharp photos. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad to help. If you're taking sports photos and want to share or sell them be sure to check out www.GeoSnapShot.com. We've got world-leading face recognition technology so people at your sports events can find themselves quickly and easily.
Great video thanks very much. I am a quadriplegic and just upgraded my Canon T 70 many years ago to a 500 D and now to a 750 D because I take photos using my old Canon T 70 T3 adapter and converted it to use on the 500 D and 750 D and uses a shutter release connected to a lens cleaning kit blower brush bulb and I bite on it to take photos it works fantastic. Also unfortunately I have to use an all in one 16-300 mm lens which I didn't know existed until recently instead of using the lens kit I had previously and was annoyed having to change lenses and take one or the other before leaving home. Would love to upgrade to a higher model can't waste time at the moment looking for somebody to adapt to new style of camera remote connection. Anyway will try your settings. Unfortunately tried sports mode motor racing event in Sydney and didn't come out as was expected and looking at tutorials found out is not the way to go. Some others use the AV mode instead of TV so was very interested to see your settings. Thanks a lot and will try them out regards Mark Sydney Australia.
Your video was very helpful. I have not used my Canon 70D for a few years, so I needed a refresher. This camera has so many possible settings. Your suggestions will improve my shots of tomorrow's Dragon boat races. Thanks.
Best video set up I have found so far
Thanks Emie :)
Finally a sports photographer who recommends you shoot in JPEG !! It's ridiculous to recommend that you shoot in RAW due to the amount of post processing that is required. Shoot 3000 pictures in RAW and you will be bogged down forever processing them. Let's face it most of never have our photos published and they only appear on social media so there is no need for using RAW.Also agree to shoot to set your aperture and shutter speed then use Auto ISO. This way you can ensure you have the correct shutter speed to freeze action and the amount of background blur you desire.Using aperture priority results in too many photos having motion blur unless you are always adjusting for changing lighting conditions.
Very good and helpful video. Hope this will help me when I go to the Vietnamese F1 race in April!
THANK YOU! I got some great shots at our school basketball game! I used shutter priority and I was really impressed. I shot with a Canon 6Dii and 85mm 1.2
Excellent Bobby! That's great news. We've also built GeoSnapShot to help sports photographers share and sell their photos. It's free to use!!
Check it out here: geosnapshot.com/
I just learnt more from you just now, than I learnt in 6 months from Tafe. Thank you so much
Ha, ha! Thanks Lauren, that's such a lovely feedback. We have plenty more to give. Join www.GeoSnaphShot.com and we'll show you how to make money from your hobby as well :)
This helped me out so much! I was able to take great night action photos! Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I think modern storage cards are big enough and cheap enough to allow for raw storage.
Most camera shoot far more jpeg before filling the buffer than RAW, and they clear the buffer faster. Most Pro sports photographers shoot jpeg for this and other reasons.
Most pro sports photographers are more concerned with he time they have to get to publisher, and the quality of image needed for that , and jpg is better for that. I used to shoot a lot of race track stuff before I retired, and rarely filled the buffer when panning at 8fps, even shooting raw most of the time.
Most pro sports photographers are only using the photos for low resolution uses they are not worried about losing pixels . I think the guy in the video is talking to moms and dads taking photos of there kids ,so raw would be the way to go to be able to edit the photo as much as possible to get a good final photo .
At last! A video that explains things in plain English! Thank you so much!
Thanks for your comments :)
No problem, thank you! This video has given me renewed confidence, so much so that I used your advice when photographing my company's entry in a soapbox derby recently and they've used them on their website! Thank you and keep up the good work!
That is fantastic to hear. Thanks :)
Just a quick thanks on this went out today to do some Mx which I’ve done before but this has really helped
Awesome, Richard, good to know. Don't forget to have a look at www.GeoSnapshot.com to be able to share and sell you photos with no subscription costs.
Mate I am in LOVE with this video. Your explanations are excellent particularly on auto focus points. I shoot a lot of Australian Rules Football, I have a Grandson who plays, and I think you have solved my "a little bit soft" problem by choosing the point just above centre so that, hopefully. the face is where the camera will focus because the action changes in direction and distance so quickly that a lot of the time it just misses sharp focus because I am aiming at the centre of the seen mass, Army talk lol. The only thing I disagree with is your preference for shooting in JPG other than RAW. Memory is cheaper these days although I must admit time is a factor to load if your keeping the finger on the trigger. But I don't seem to have a problem with that probably because I learnt on film back in the day. Much appreciated thank you !!!!
Great Peter. We run the GeoSnapShot platform so all those photos of Aussie Rules can be shared/sold via GeoSnapShot. There is no subscription free so it's free to use. I imagine you have an archive of photos from games. Now that everyone has the time it's worth uploading all those photos from past games and sharing with the club/players.
@@andyedwards7883 Thanks I will check it out.
Most sports photographers shoot jpeg. The reasons for this can be down to the buffer and image storage, to that of sending images from the camera to your mobile phone or laptop or computer, most press sports photographers require the images to get out there into the wider world community so speed is more important than having a raw file that takes time plus internal camera power. There are however times when shooting raw is advantageous but that comes down to the type of event, conditions and light, the experience of the user and is it relevant. Overall, raw is not the be all and end all. The video herein is correct, again the saliant point was made at the beginning which most folk failed to listen to.
Wrong, that is depend on the media company you work with, I'm shoot with RAW and Jpeg. With Raw files we have proof of evidence our pics are genuine and not altered with editing software. In Journalistic is very taboo to altered the pics.
even crop if that is cause different story of the photo is forbidden. white balance, exposure, saturation is allowed. Altered not allowed eg. take off the hearing aid, take away/put on another object to the photo.
Actually my reply is for PAP PAP.
I know, because I was wrong click to reply from the beginning.
This is gold, thanks!
Thanks for posting this useful feature. Do you have any additional tips for shooting soccer under floodlights?
640 shutter minimum if possible... An f2.8 lens... Wait for action to be in the lighter areas of the pitch if its particularly bad... need a decent camera that copes with high iso's
Very understandable, without uselessness, without "emopty words" :-) Thanks!
Great, informative video! Better than the CanonUSA videos that assume you know things that you don't know.
Thanks Douglas.
Thank you. Great video. Learned a ton. Shooting a soccer game tomorrow. Looking forward to using all that I have learned here.
Awesome, Ted. Don't forget you can use GeoSnapShot.com to share or sell photos easily and quickly from your soccer game.
Players can use face recognition to find their photos quickly and easily.
I’ve learned more from this video than the last 10 UA-cam videos I have watched lol
I have a Canon 5D Mk IV with a Canon 70-200 mm F 2.8. I shoot high school American football that starts from dusk to the evening hours under the lights.
My settings are:
ISO : 100 - 16000
Mode Dial : M
Aperture : F 2.8 fixed
Shutter Speed : 1/1000 fixed
Picture Style : Fine Detail
Drive Mode : High Speed Continuous
AF Operation : AI Servo
The only adjustment I make is the ISO when I shoot when afternoon sun is still up onto the evening when stadium lights are being used..
Works fine for me.
Thank you for the well explained, step by step detailed video for sports photography. Just want i needed. Great effort mate, heaps of thanks
Thank you for the very best of all regarding sports and the camera focus and active parts you make it 110% easy to understand even for an old man like myself? I CALL IT (SIMPLE) KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID! IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT!
Thanks for the helpful video,when using TV mode with the 5D mkii using a Canon af lens do I switch the af to manual focus ?
Hi, no, you should stick with Auto Focus nearly 100% of the time. The AF system is very advanced and should get you the best results nearly all of the time. See our other blog for camera tips and selling photos at geosnapshot.com/blog/
Decent video as a starting point, but you missed covering autofocus cases, and use of RAW or JPEG is not predicated on the size of the files (use bigger cards) but the need to pull the detail from highlights and shadows for certain applications (e.g. SI uses RAW, newspapers use JPEG).
Good points Keith. It's hard to cover everything in one video that people will watch. So Autofocus may well be another video. In terms of RAW, yes I agree, as many posts have said it not about size of files (or size of cards available). Thanks for your comments.
Hi i set up my canon 7d for surf photography with expand af and ai servo,I was taking some practice shots of a windmill near my house but when i hold down the shutter half way it does not beep or the focus points do not light up.Im left wondering am i doing something wrong or is that just the way al servo works.When i change to ai focus mode i hear beeps when i hold down the shutter half way and the focus points light up.Is ai servo on my camera working properly.It actualy does say in the manual that the camera will not beep in ai servo mode.I find this very strange and i dont like it.Ihave a ef 70-300ml lens on my 7d.What do you think is it working properly and i will just have to get used to it or is thr something wrong?
sir I wont to Canon 5D mark 3 kamara Whod you lik help me Please
Thanks for the video and it helped me get VERY sharp photos. One Love
One love indeed Chijioke!
I just got myself a used 7D to play around with. Does 7D have an equivalent feature/setting similar to the Nikon 3D tracking?
Great video! I try not to use Auto ISO unless you are outdoors and it is a day game with clouds that are changing too often to keep up with setting your ISO manually. You risk really grainy shots using Auto ISO at night with a 1250 shutter speed and your aperture at > F4..
On some cameras you can set limits to your ISO. Just set a maximum allowed ISO and don't worry about it.
Very helpful! Thank you so much from Cambodia
It's a pleasure Cam, glad to help. If you're interested in using a platform to share or sell you photos please use www.geosnapshot.com. Thanks.
Hello
Not sure if you will see this as it's quite an old video. Which was very easy to gollow and make the settings changes for a beginner. Can I ask I'm using a cannon eos600d it's quite old with a cannon 55/250 cannon lens.
The TV and manual settings you recommend. Why would you use one over the other on anygivrn day at say a football game??
Thanks
Hi glad you liked the video. Yep, it's old but still viewed regularly.
If yoru camera has Auto ISO I would use manual. Otherwise, use TV with the settings I've given.
Good luck with the football photos and don't forget to register on www.GeoSnapshot.com to upload, share and sell your photos to the players. There is no fee for using GeoSnapShot.
I am sorry, but your description of the all AF points mode is incorrect. You can select the initial starting point. In fact, you see it as the highlighted AF point just above the center.
Great video.....Any suggestions on settings for indoor sports (High School Wrestling) ? Thanks
Hi Bob, I haven't done a video on indoor sports setting yet.... perhaps I'll do one of those soon.
However you may find this helpful ua-cam.com/video/xW9JQbJ8uLs/v-deo.html
I really enjoy your video I wish you could go back to the Canon 5D Mk11.
Will you share your user defined picture style settings? Thank you.
Enjoyed the section on focus points, will let you know how I go on
Awesome! Don;t forget to check out www.GeoSnapShot.com as a place to upload and sell your photos. We've just launched face recognition making it even easier for people to find (and buy) photos of themselves!
I shoot middle school and high school indoor and outdoor sports photography with a Canon 6D Mark II and Tamron 70-200mm 2.8 lens. I have the camera focus point set in the center of the view finder for taking images in a horizontal scene. It never occurred to me until i watched this video that when I turn the camera to a vertical scene that my focus point in the center will not be where I want it for a vertical photograph. Is there a setting to save two different focus points without changing from landscape to portrait ? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I'm gad you enjoyed the video! I'm not familiar with the 6DII but the 7DII has a differnt focal point setting for portrait and lanscape automaticlaly. Simply hold the camera in portrait and set the focal point, then turn the camera landscape and set the focal point at a differnt place. Now, when you move the camera you shuold see the focal point change automatically. That's how it works on the 7D. By the way if you take school and and sports photos you should have a look at selling or sharing those through our wessite (www.geosnapshot.com) which has been specifically built for school and sports photography. Just reach out to our support team if you need any help.
@@geosnapshot1393 Thank you very much, I will try it out.
Fantastic video thanks for posting, it's been really helpful as I'm just starting out in sports photography. One quick question though. When setting the AF point selection in Expanded AF Area, in landscape I've set it as you have shown (top middle), but your comment about setting it in Portrait, if I move the selection area over to the right middle will it automatically defer to this area when I hold the camera in Portrait mode ?, and then automatically go back to top middle when I turn the camera back to landscape, or do you have to manually move the point selection area each time you turn the camera ?
Hi Mark, good to hear it was useful.
I use a Canon 7D ii. It has something called "orientation linked AF point" where you can set the position of the default AF point in landscape and portrait separately.
This is great for quickly being able to reposition your camera and focus point without having to physically move the AF point.
On the back of this video we've also created a great website for when you're ready to sell or share your photos. Take a look at www.GeoSnapShot.com.
You can ask us a ton of questions via support there as well.
@@geosnapshot1393 thanks so much for coming back to me, and for your help, I've now found the menu and set the AF points to how i want them 😃 (I too have a 7D Mark ii and am really impressed with it). I'll take a look at your website too. Many thanks once again, and keep up the great work
Hi again and thanks for the fast answer, I will get a Canon 60 D the following days, I believe it’s an improvement from the canon 40 D, any lens recommendation for indoor sports and outdoor sports and wildlife , Regards and thanks very much for you Profesional guidance.
Hi Bob, You'll find indoor sports photography harder than outdoor photography. This is mainly because of the available light. The settings above are mainly for outdoor photography. I'll try and do a video soon about indoor sports photography.
A 70-200mm is still a very good option for indoor photography. If you can get close to the action then you may consider a wider lens, say 15-85mm.
When selecting a lens for indoor you should aim fo the lowest f-number (widest apature) you can afford i.e. f/2.8.
If you're shoot sports you should look at joining my website www.GeoSnapShot.com for a place to sell you photos :)
Do you have "ideal" settings for outdoor portrait camera settings. I shoot Canon too and just purchased the 5D Mark III. Thanks so much for sharing.
Hi Very helpful vid. Just setting mine up and I cant seem to get the AF point selection screen on the rear display,only through the view finder. Is there a setting I'm missing?
Hi, Thanks for your question. You can access the the AF point selection through the camera menu system. It's not available from the "Q" menu (on a Canon) on the back screen so simply scroll through the menus until you get to "AF Point Selection" and you should be good.
I have a Canon 7d mark 1. I can't set my shutter at 1250. I can only set my shutter speed to either 1000 or 1500 ? What would you recommend out of these two choices. Thanks in advance.
I'm using TV mode. Thanks
Hi @@jasonclark950 I assume by "TV Mode" you mean video mode as opposed to still shooting on the back of the camera. You should absolutely use still shooting and use the viewfinder. Your battery will not last very long if you use the screen at the back.
You should definitely be able to set 1/1250. It a bit strange that you can't. However 1/1000 would be fine as well. Let me know how you go. I have a 7D mark 1 so can dig it out if needed to show you.
@@geosnapshot1393I'm using TV mode for shutter priority. I'm only using my 7d mark 1 for bird photography only, no video footage. Thanks
@@jasonclark950 Arrrhh, sorry, yes TV mode = Shutter priority. As the video suggests I would try Full manual mode "M' and set your ISO to auto. Use the setting in the video for manual and see how you go. You should definitely be able to set 1/1250 shutter speed.
Love it mate 🥰💖👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Hello GeoSnapShot, Thank you for your very informative video. Good tips for a lot of people wishing to improve their photography. I also have a question. While showing on how to select and move the selected areas around the 61 or so focused points... How do you get to see it on back screen? I have a 5D III and I don't know how to see the same. Thank you in advance.
Hi, Very good question! You need to press the "info" button repeatedly on the back of your camera until you get something that looks like the "Q" menu screen (but is not the "Q" menu screen).
When you get to that screen using the "info" button press the right hand top button at the back of the camera. It is to the right hand side of the button marked "*".
Does that work for you?
Brilliant!.. Thank you kindly for your knowledge and wisdom. And thank you for sharing with this community!
Great, glad it worked. Don't to join www.GeoSnapShot.com so yo can share and sell your sports photos.
Thank you.This was very useful.
I see you shooting user defined 1 style. Can you show me a pic so I can copy your settings.
Hi. Thanks for the great, well explained video. I just changed all of my manual settings on my Canon EOS1100D for shotting photographs of my kids sports games. However, I noticed that they seemed quite over exposed. It was a netball court on a light grey court. I am thinking if it were a footy game it might have been ok. Should I change the settings based on the sport?
Are you shooting manual? Have you set your Shutter speed at 1/1250? And aperture at say 4.0. If so an overexposed photo is usually down to too much light.
Try increasing your shutter speed to 1/2000.
Does that make a difference?
You will need different settings for outdoor and indoor sports but in general, all outdoor sports will be OK for different sports.
Don't forget you can share and sell you photos of the kids sports using GeoSnapShot.com
This is so helpful, thanks Andy! You've saved me loads of time
No worries, it's a pleasure. Now jump on board with www.GeoSnapShot.com and start selling your photos!! :)
Hello, I’m trying to get up my 7D mark ii for sport but when I select the q in the square and goto the bottom left corner where the setting it “Meant” to be AI SERVO I don’t have that option? I can’t change it from MF for some reason? Does anyone know why this might be the case? Thank you.
Hi Mitchell, some initial questions that may sound a bit obvious... do you hav a lens attached? Is the lens set on AF (not MF)?
very good video with clear considerations about the camera setting. It could be interesting to define the camera settings for the shoot in the environments with artificial lights, e.g. pools with waterpolo matches.
What are your auto ISO settings? I set mine up from 100-400 but it always goes to the high end and I get alot of blowouts
Hi, if you watch the video again you'll see that I set ISO on Auto specifically for the reason you mention. Auto ISO is your friend and will help you get perfectly exposed photos every time. I explain all the settings in the video.
@@geosnapshot1393 you don't explain what you set your auto ISO settings to, hence the reason I asked....... You can set them from 100 to 400... You can set them up from 500 to 1600... You can set them up to whatever. So... Thanks for explaining the obvious.
@@richlaw5136 Sorry, I didn't understand your original question. I think my 7Dii can be set from 100 to 1600 ISO in Manual Mode so that's what I use.
If yours can only be set up for 100 to 400 and 500 to 1600 that's unusual.
If that's the case I'd use 100 to 400 and close the aperture a bit to make sure you're always shooting in that ISO band.
I hope that helps.
Would u set 1/1000 for indoors sports boxing? And f stop lowest?
You might be able to get away with something slower than 1/1000. Yes, I would use lowest f-stop. Good luck and I hope to see you selling photos on GeoSnapShot.com
These are such great tips thanks for the advice 😀
What settings would you change for shooting sport at night?
you'll need to invest in a fast zoom lens to catch the motion without too much grain. otherwise you will have to push your iso really high
changing the image format from raw to jpeg is useful in case your camera doesn't have a big buffer, in my case a canon 600d can do a maximum of 6 raw shots before slowing down and waiting for the card to write. But when i switched to jpeg i counted 13 shots and i think it could go on and on.
can i use a 55-300mm lens for action photography? nothing professional
@punketsly Yep, absolutely. The zoom that you have with that lens will be good for all types of sports photography.
I come to you from the future where cards can now hold thousands and thousands of photos and theres no need to shoot jpg only unless youre a professional that needs to send them off in real time!
To all canon user there,i have a quick question,which one better to upgrade 6d mark2 or 5d mark3?i own 70d,thanks
Thank you. I've leared a lot. Most advantage for me as a begginer is, I can see it again and again.
Thank you. Very clear and very helpful.
Great video, just one thing: the square with a "fan" and number 1 takes pictures not in color.
Hi Rebecca, I'm not sure I understand your question.... is there a position in the video you're referring to?
Never mind. Your video is clear in all aspects. It was just the position of taking Landscape, Portrait, etc. photos. The position of your camera in this video takes photos in black and white.
Great! Did you look at our website www.GeoSnapShot.com for selling your sports photo?
how flattering! I did try selling my photos. It failed on me. Parents have other expenses, photos were excluded. Now, since I am an amateur, and photography is a hobby for me, I give them away. Thank you for the offer! You are a magnificent Tutor!
Great video and best review.. thanks
I plan to shoot fish jumping out of the water, what autofocus settings would be best since face recognition won't work.
Hi I just bought a canon 28-300 use lens on a canon 750d and keep getting err 1 seems ok in sports but keep freezing and err msg 01 am I doing something wrong been using tamron 16-300 for about a year and no probs any ideas thanks
How about this blog.lensprotogo.com/2017/09/25/how-to-fix-err-01-error-on-canon-cameras/
GeoSnapShot tried that still the same was second hand lens so not sure if faulty hope not as cost a fortune lol
@@johnfarrands1258 Try the lens on another camera to see if it works.
Seems to do it more when fully extend or right in will try setting manual mode via your instructions
@@johnfarrands1258 My settings won't help an error with the lens. Check the lens connection to the camera are good when fully extended.
Yes it so useful. THANKS ❤
Hi GeoSnapShot, It's really so helpful video.
I have 5 D mark 2 ..can you help me ,setting for out door.models.thanks
I am shooting cricket and having trouble choosing autofocus cases. Do you use any of the cases on the 7d mk ii?
Yep, I usually stick with case 2.
And don't forget to join GeoSnapShot.com to share or sell those Cricket photos ;)
Hi. great video very helpful. I just have one question at approx 5.28 in the video you can see on your lcd that exposure comp is what your adjusting but I recently got a 5d mkiii and mine is only adjusting aeb. please can you tell me how to change that setting as I cant find in the menu.thanks stacey
Hi Stacey, You should find all the information your after here. cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/exposure_settings/exposure_compensation.do?page=2
I have the same question, I have the 5d mkiii also and I can't figure out how you were able to get it to adjust exposure comp is manual mode. I do not get the + - like you do in the video at 5:28 on the Q menu while in manual mode. I reviewed the link you provided and that just talks about generic exposure comp settings (which I can do in every mode except manual). The reason I need to do this is because I want to set aperture and shutter speed while having ISO set to auto (due to constantly changing lighting in outdoor sports photography, ie.. shade/sun, and don't have time to try out ISO settings while the action is happening). At the same time I sometimes need to compensate for exposure due to backgrounds, etc. How in the heck do you change the exposure comp in manual mode like you did in the video? Thanks in advance.
The actual answer is in your User Manual:
"Exposure Compensation can be set in the P/Tv/Av shooting modes."
Thank you. Covered all the points I wanted answered.
Awesome, Good to hear David. If you're shooting sports photography why not join our website www.GeoSnapShot.com, we've got 5,500 in over 92 countries.
You left out case 1-4. I forgot the name but it's important for changing settings. Case 1 is the default settings.
Thank you - great video
Thanks Bernard, if you shoot sports photos have a look at our company GeoSnapShot.com as a place to sell or share your photos.
Hello. Once I set my camera this way. When I take the photos do I shoot in the M mode or TV mode? Thank you.
Hi Kimberley, use the camera in the mode the settings were made. For example, if you went for manual settings then take photos in manual mode. Let us know how you got on. Thanks.
My canon 7D will not let me set af point select to Expand AF area.
Hi @anjan, you may find this video useful ua-cam.com/video/HIujbsTz7Zg/v-deo.html
I would recommend a larger card vs. shooting in jpg. Raw always for maximum control over your images
wow, what a great and helpful video! thank you!
My pleasure Irina, If you want to sell your sports photos please visit my website GeoSnapShot.com.
OMG! It's Phil 'The Power' Taylor!
thanks a lot, very helpful videos
So helpful ❤️ thank you so much
That a pleasure Omar. Don't forget to jump onto GeoSnapShot.com if you want to sell or share your sports photos.
Hi there, thanks for the video, according to your experience do you have any advice regarding a Canon 40 d for sports and wildlife in terms of lenses?
Thanks in advance, regards Bob Lee.
Hi Bob, if money is not an option I would go for a 300mm to 400mm lens for sports and wildlife. However, personally, my goto lens for sports and wildlife is a 70-200 ii f2.8. It's an amazingly sharp lens. If I need more zoom I've also got a 1.4x converter.
At 4:16 why did you take the iso out of auto and put it at 800? Why didn't you just set the auto iso range from 100 to 800 so it could pick what it needed for the shutter and aperture you pick . I have a pentax camera and it has a TVa setting on the dial . When its in that mode it lets you set the aperture you want and the shutter speed you want and it picks the iso needed to get the correct exposure . You can set the iso range you want the iso to go to for example 100 to 800. I haven't seen this dial option on either canon or nikon for some reason . The TVa mode is a iso priority mode . When you were going over the auto iso you should have let people know that if your iso is on auto that it can pick any iso it needs to get the correct exposure no matter how hi it goes and it could get into a lot of noise ,so setting a limit on the iso is very important . To keep the iso from going to hi you need to set its range ,and you have to decide what noise your happy with . You don't want to just set the iso to auto without setting a limit . I like the TVa mode for sports because once you set the shutter speed and Aperture you want you don't have to keep changing it to get the correct exposure . All you have to do is shoot and you know its going to be at the correct exposure and a warning light flashes if the iso range limit is met to let me know I need to either change the aperture or shutter speed to get the correct exposure to the set iso limit . Everyone needs to know what iso limit they are happy with . Every camera is different ,so before you go out and shoot anything take the time to test the iso limits you can live with . Some people are happy with a lot of noise and others are not . learn what your noise editing software is capable of . The newer ones do a pretty good job of saving really hi iso photos . The lower you can keep the iso the less noise you will get in your photos so keep the iso low .
One other thing don't tell people to shoot in jpeg . You can get a 32 g card for just about nothing now and shooting in raw gives you 100 times better control of processing and photos that don't lose pixels . With the cards memory sizes today no one should ever shoot in jpeg . even cell phones have raw setting ,so leave your camera in raw when shooting sports or anything as far as that goes . Most newer cameras can shoot 8 fps until the card is full with little to no buffer time . You didn't buy that 24 megapixel camera to shoot a 6 megapixel photo did you ? So use the full 24 megapixels, shoot in raw .
Thanks for your comment Steve.
at 4:16 of the video we're talking about a camera that doesn't have auto ISO.
When using the settings I've given for outdoor photography it's very unlikely to get into an ISO above 800. So no need here to explain noise here.
When discussing RAW it's not actually the space that the issue. Many cameras shoot a much lower frame per second in RAW and also take longer to clear the buffer.
Also, the post-event edit time is much longer if you're going to process thousands of RAW photos.
Many Sports photographers will shoot thousands of photos a day. You'll find many sports photographers don't shoot in RAW .
no Q icon mark in left menu before 7.23, and use black cut here is it. How to active this Q button?
Awesome video!! Thanks
Can i use the same settings on street photography with lower shutter speed?
Your subjects in street photography will move slower (so your shutter speed will be thankful), but then it really depends on the lighting you'll have, so it's not possible to answer that question. Each situation is completely different. Look at your exposure metering or histogram and you'll see if you're underexposed or over exposed, and go from there.
it seems that most professional shooters use jpeg. They are not going to be manipulating images in post and more than likely will be sending them to news desks via wifi links. Hence if you are doing this for hobby photos use raw otherwise use jpeg.
Simply said! Thank you!
Thanks! This is great info!
Pleasure Vicki :)
Thank you a lot