Recycled Huipiles: Unraveling Traditions?
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Recycled Huipiles: Unraveling Tradition? is an ethical investigation of the use of used huipiles in mass production, and a call to action to preserve the ancient and intricate art of backstrap weaving in the Maya community. Co-directed by Erin Semine Kökdil and Jenn Miller Scarnato. Tela Film Productions.
Interesting reportage.
I am a maya Ki’che’
I have never imagined how complex this topic was and I am really concerned about it.
For centuries, our people, especially women have been tenacious against modernism and they have preserved our culture and traditions by passing down from generation to generation, and backstrap loom weaving is not the exception.
Traditional mayan woman clothes as you know are formed by: Huipil, corte (skirt), sash, hair ribbons, shawl (perraje), chachal (traditional necklace) and traditional sandals. However, Huipil is the most valued by a mayan woman because it is usually made by herself and identifies from which region of the country she comes from. On the other hand, Mayan Weaver reflects her inspiration, feelings and worldview through each huipil she weaves. As you know, depending on how much time a weaver spends and how much skill a huipil requires to be made, it might take her from 20 days to 3 months or even more to finish.
Our traditional clothes, especially huipiles have been so coveted by fashion designers, Guatemalan and foreign dealers lately, due to their beauty and handmade patterns, which are unique around the world. Nonetheless, Huipiles are not just rags and patches to be placed in a bag or any other accessory. It results offensive and indifferent how dealers (Guatemalan ladinos-mestizos or foreigners) profit with our clothes, as they just want to make money without knowing the meaning and value huipiles represent for us.
In the past, our ancestor were conquered by Spaniards, submitted to slavery, plundered our treasures, submitted us to other religion and culture, and deprived us of our lands. A civil war that last more than 30 years and a genocide (1981-1983) suffered by our ancestors are still present in our minds, and we are struggling to demand justice against those humanitarian crimes. Finally, stripping of our traditional clothing and using of our culture and clothing as a tourist icon are the last sources, dealers and government can profit to.
As you could realize during your staying in Guatemala, on the highlands and rural areas where mayan descendants live on nowadays, poverty, lack of public services and social development are the main social problems our people face to, so they look for any economic income source to provide the necessary to their families, even selling their own clothes at a mediocre price.
Some Guatemalans think that we victimize ourselves, however, according to I already mentioned before We are not victimizing ourselves, what we are living here is a total indifference, discrimination and exclusion by the Government of Guatemala.
Nowadays, we are struggling to demand government to fulfill and guarantee our rights and to have more participation in social and political decisions of our country, so that creating laws to protect collective copyright related with our textiles and huipiles are one of the priorities, so mayan weavers get a legal support for their creations, as well as dealing textiles would require consent, a legal authorization and a fair and reasonable compensation.
I am honest, It will not be easy to demand to the congress the creation of regulations in our benefit, however struggling to have a more equitable and fair society is what motivates us. In fact, an association named “Movimiento Nacional de Tejedoras” introduced a law proposal to protect their creations to the congress months ago, I hope congress can approve it.
Nota:
Escribí el comentario en inglés (espero sea buena mi gramática) con el objeto que el mensaje llegue más allá de las fronteras de mi país, y de esa manera puedan ver lo lamentable y eminente peligro que corren de desaparecer los tejidos mayas en Guatemala, y a la vez que la gente haga conciencia y valore la importancia de nuestro legado histórico y textil.
I was shocked...as a person who owned some traditional handmade attires, and know how much effort they put behind in order to make one of these attire, their works should be values and should be selling in much higher prices, look at Kimono, Hanbok, Hanfu, Saree, Kebaya, Cheongsam and more, non of them were treated like the Huipiles in this video.
Thank you for your educational video. I’m not sure why or when haggling for lower prices was started by tourists but it devalues all the hard work the artisans invest into creating each work of art. Thank you for bringing awareness. It’s just heartbreaking to see these laborious pieces cut up to “recycle” into smaller cheaper pieces.
"Haggling" is required when tourists are asked for ten times the normal price. As soon as I say "I am not a tourist, I live here" - which is true - the price is immediately cut in half. And even then it is 2 to 4 times the normal price. What is "justo" about that? And when you understand Spanish and hear the laughter about how another gringo "just got fleeced" it changes one's perspective. Everyone is not a victim. It works both ways. We have fixed prices in the United States and buying and selling is much easier there. And "just."
I just came across your video and it's been eye-opening. I had the good fortune of spending 6 months traveling and staying in Guatemala in 1978. I was one of those "hippies" exploring the world. I fell in love with the Guatemalan people, the food, the art, the culture. I, too, visited villages and asked people if they had huipiles to sell. I ended up bringing home a lovely group of textiles. I gave some away, sold a few, and still have maybe 10-15 of them in a box. I treasure them and want to do something with them, but could never bring myself to cut them or pass them on. After seeing your video, I wonder if I ever would have bought them from these women if I'd known how detrimental it would be. I'm 43 years older now than I was then. I can't believe how the commercialization and exploitation has run rampant. Thank you for putting this out there. I hope it will change people's hearts and minds.
Thank you Erin and Jenn for this marvelous education and video to enjoy the richness of the culture Maya and the incredible weavings that deserve respect and fair compensation for the work these beautiful women have done. Feels like I left another little piece of my heart in my Guatemala after viewing. So proud of you both!
I was lucky enough to be given various huipiles.
While in Guatemala, I could not afford to buy any but I certainly can appreciate the hard work of so many women around the world. I too am a crafter and am amazed at how little money people offer me for the long hours I spend on projects like painting, bead work, sewing etc.
May the tradition continue and be appreciated!
I have lived and worked in Guatemala for 18 years and worked with many artisans and sold their beadwork to raise money for their medical and educational expenses, earning next to nothing for myself. I have also purchased many used huipiles when the women I knew needed extra money and asked me to buy, which I did at much higher prices than they would recieve in the market place, which I also donated at a later date. This made me a target for everyone in town and people were lined up at my door, and angry and called me bad names when I did not buy more and was out of money.
I got very tired of everyone asking me for TEN TIMES the normal price or market value of products just because I am a "gringo" and it's considered "negotio." Being constantly overcharged and ripped off is very tiring. Being poor is a terrible thing, as I have known first hand, but "exploitation" works both ways.
Excellent video. Education and the preservation of the Mayan weaving arts are sorely needed here in Guatemala!
200 quetzales is USD $30. These women are selling 6 months of work for thirty dollars (as a regular price) and for five dollars out of desperation!?!
thank you for bothering to make the calculation and share it
while I am VERY glad the researcher asked the women to estimate how much time was embodied in each hupil, it will take lots of time and study by women who want to work with them, as well as the back strap weavers themselves, to reach the point of paying them an hourly wage pegged to prices of commodities that raise their standard of living plus contributions (taxes) to social security funds to pay for labor of teachers and health workers AND labor of their marketing agents. That latter, everything after "plus" is what is called "surplus value" or profit when the difference between the price sold and price bought is privately pocketed by the entrepreneur (between goer). And nb: even when/if the labor time is paid fairly, the work process will be qualitatively changed, from when created according to tradition dictated by where one was born, for self, for family members, ie, not for exchange for money to buy other things, but for direct use.
I have a hopi basket made in pakistan and one made in uganda. I bet I have a hupil already, made in China. And here is the rub, ATTN Marimar Benitez, that is where, thanks to the Spanish galleons plying the pacific between the philippnes and americas, some designs are traced to.
Thank you so much for making this beautiful film. I fell in love with the Maya people, culture, and color while living in Guatemala many years ago. That affection has never left me, and my appreciation for what they produce has only grown in recent years. It is tragic and disheartening to learn that exploitation now operates under the cloak of Fair Trade and Recycling, especially when it exploits people who have so little to begin with. My wife collects huipils and we would be interested to know if you know of ways to build support for these artisans by helping them obtain fair prices that more directly benefits them and sustains their interest in preserving this unique culture. Much like the micro-finance programs that have helped poor women build and sustain businesses and lives in other parts of the world, perhaps there a way to do something similar here?
I hope since this was made that they have banded together and formed a weaving company, commune, and get a fair price for their work.
❤
How can we buy them if we can't travel there?
Pero si no podemos viajar hasta Guatemala, como se pueden comprar estos huipiles de manera justa? Como me gustaria usar huipiles como blusas pero aqui no hay donde comprarlos. No soy de Guatemala pero aun asi me encantaria usar un huipil.
Is there a fair trade store where we can buy weaving?
Yes! A good list to get started: Maya Traditions Foundation, Mayan Hands, Cojolya Association of Maya Women Weavers, Utz Threads, Ixil Collective, and Pixan!
Thank you!
A qui solo ganan Las personas que importan y explotan a estas artesanas ..que pena que en vez de ayudarlas a que sean personas independientes de negocio .. que pena!!!
Oh this is so sad, these amazing whomen, the work, the amazing work they do/have... the price they ask, just 200 Q- thats 21 euros!... and the stupid people want for 50/30 Q! what pain. If I could help... I live in Portugal, if not... I desig/make clouths, how I wish