Thanks for the video - here is some shortcuts that I have found by just doing mine (2000 / crew cab/ short-bed). I did not remove the tank, just dropped it down to change the screens and a new pick-up: (A) Jack-up the back of the truck as high as safely possible. I used almost the top of my 6 ton jack stands (stock, 2wd truck). (B) Instead of trying to take the hoses off to the filler pipes, remove the filler assembly from the bed (3 - 7MM screws inside the filler door) and the hose clamp that holds it to the frame. You can ether remove (it will be easier being loose) or not. (C) Place a milk crate or something kinda close to that size at the rear of the tank, Jack toward the middle. (D) Undo the straps as outlined in the video. (E) Let the front of the tank down using the jack. As the tank drops make certain that your fill hoses and filler neck slide toward the tank. You should get enough slack to rest the rear of the tank on the milk create. I did undo the larger hose but you may not need to. (F) disconnect the sending unit wire at the connector on the frame. A small screw driver pushing down on the connector tab will help. There are two other hoses front and back that just pull off. (G) With the front of the tank on the ground and the rear on the create I DID NOT have to remove the fuel lines. Just unscrew and pull out.
There is also a front and rear vent line that hooks to a metal line on the body. These are really easy to just pull off. (No clamp and a single barb connector.
Pleas drop the "catalyst" word, it's a lubricant, not a "a substance that increases the rate of a chemical reaction without itself undergoing any permanent chemical change". Also, be aware that the chemicals in the spray lube may damage some types of "rubbers" and cause them to become weak.
Actual Penetrating blast (pb blaster) is a lifesaver. It made removing and reinstalling my cat from the rusty exhaust surprisingly easy. Been using it since then. You can pick it up at Walmart
He seems to love the word. Even though a "Catalyst" is something that causes a chemical to change into something else, which a penetrating oil doesn't do.
@@davidswink6653 They differ by 12 thousandths of an inch. I think the usual standard here is that 6 thousandths is close enough--but I'm usually happy to use a smaller socket as long as I can get it on and off. In this case the 1/2 is smaller and I was happy to have a nice tight fit.
I finally got mine back on with WD40. I sprayed the cap itself and where it mounts, all around. This did the trick for me. Before this, the cap kept getting stuck, refused to go further, or would pop off. Once I had it on enough, I used a hammer and hit a screwdrive to chisel it back on tight. I had the front of my tank fully dropped and the back of it only about half dropped. I used rags to help with grip, but gloves would probably be even better. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for the video - here is some shortcuts that I have found by just doing mine (2000 / crew cab/ short-bed). I did not remove the tank, just dropped it down to change the screens and a new pick-up: (A) Jack-up the back of the truck as high as safely possible. I used almost the top of my 6 ton jack stands (stock, 2wd truck). (B) Instead of trying to take the hoses off to the filler pipes, remove the filler assembly from the bed (3 - 7MM screws inside the filler door) and the hose clamp that holds it to the frame. You can ether remove (it will be easier being loose) or not. (C) Place a milk crate or something kinda close to that size at the rear of the tank, Jack toward the middle. (D) Undo the straps as outlined in the video. (E) Let the front of the tank down using the jack. As the tank drops make certain that your fill hoses and filler neck slide toward the tank. You should get enough slack to rest the rear of the tank on the milk create. I did undo the larger hose but you may not need to. (F) disconnect the sending unit wire at the connector on the frame. A small screw driver pushing down on the connector tab will help. There are two other hoses front and back that just pull off. (G) With the front of the tank on the ground and the rear on the create I DID NOT have to remove the fuel lines. Just unscrew and pull out.
Excellent video I appreciate you calling out bolt/socket sizes
Thank you uploading the video… you saved me money… 🙏
There is also a front and rear vent line that hooks to a metal line on the body. These are really easy to just pull off. (No clamp and a single barb connector.
I've done high pressure lines, oil cooler and dipstick tube and by far this was the hardest to do of all of them. Kicked my butt.
What is penetrating catalyst? Is PB blaster good? Works on rubber and rusted bolts?
Pleas drop the "catalyst" word, it's a lubricant, not a "a substance that increases the rate of a chemical reaction without itself undergoing any permanent chemical change". Also, be aware that the chemicals in the spray lube may damage some types of "rubbers" and cause them to become weak.
Doesn't lowering one half cause tension on the remaining two strap bolts? Can you ruin the bolts that way?
nice video.. i was thinking the board on jack to support tank as well.. good job. too much wind on that day. :)
Is there an under body shield on this to lower as well?
Is penetrative catalyst a fancy word WD40?
Actual Penetrating blast (pb blaster) is a lifesaver. It made removing and reinstalling my cat from the rusty exhaust surprisingly easy. Been using it since then. You can pick it up at Walmart
He seems to love the word. Even though a "Catalyst" is something that causes a chemical to change into something else, which a penetrating oil doesn't do.
aka Panther Piss
Grateful for the video, but not showing the actual line removed with the tool is kinda annoying bruh…
How do you restart the engine after you complete this job won't they have some air in the line what is the procedure
Need to bleed it out by your fuel bowl
Looks like a cap for a bike tire
What were the sizes of the disconnecting tools sir
5/16 and 3/8
I think my 2000 bolts are 1/2 inch.
Update, I took them out and measured them with calipers. They do seem to be 13mm.
13 mm is 1/2"
@@davidswink6653 They differ by 12 thousandths of an inch. I think the usual standard here is that 6 thousandths is close enough--but I'm usually happy to use a smaller socket as long as I can get it on and off.
In this case the 1/2 is smaller and I was happy to have a nice tight fit.
@@davidswink6653 1/2" wont fit over a 13mm.... its not the same.
Does fuel spray everywhere when you disconnect the lines?
Yes
i habe a f 250 7.3 cant get the sending unit nut back on
Did you ever get the sending unit cap back on? I'm having a heck of a time getting mine back on. It looks like it screws on but it really doesn't.
Hello , is there a trick to get the cap back on
I finally got mine back on with WD40. I sprayed the cap itself and where it mounts, all around. This did the trick for me. Before this, the cap kept getting stuck, refused to go further, or would pop off. Once I had it on enough, I used a hammer and hit a screwdrive to chisel it back on tight. I had the front of my tank fully dropped and the back of it only about half dropped. I used rags to help with grip, but gloves would probably be even better. Hope this helps someone.
penetrating "catalyst"??....who the hell calls it that???....penetrating SPRAY!!!
lol
Good video! Maybe you should take yours to a dealer if you don't understand the terminology
😢
Doesn't say what year. is it 1994? 2015? or what?
99-04
Thanks, just note that the "nuts" as you called them are bolts. but thanks for the video
bad recording bad explanation