bonsoir, j'ai une mini cooper s de 2012 le 184 ch. Depuis quelque temps la voiture a tout les rapport tousse. Le garagiste a changé les bougies , vanos et ça continue. Le garage Peugeot a sortie comme problème que ça venait de la chaine de distribution. Qu'est ce que vous en pensez ?@@TheMiniSpecialist
I'm blown away by this video. So informative. I estimate the chances of me messing up the repair I'm doing on my Mini have gone down by 90%. Thank you so much. I owe you a beer.
I would like to thank you for the wonderful explanation on how to do the timing chain procedures . your illustration of the repair with the engine on the stand was a great idea , showing what has to be removed gave me a better under standing what and were to look for in that tight engine bay. I would encourage you to continue to show these illustrations on the engine stand whenever possible thank you very much.
@@TheMiniSpecialist Hi guys. I have Peugeot 308 THP 200 EP6 that has already had the timing done by the Dealer at 70000 miles. Now they couldn’t find out what caused the timing to be out. The engine continues to warble on startup and when idling. So I am thinking its either the chain kit needs replacing or one of the tensioners on the way put, the Solenoids need replacing or there is an issue with pulleys and tensioners. Without wishing to throw £1000s at the dealer I am not sure which to try first. The RAC put a sound scope on the front belt tensioner and that was making a resonation so I had that replaced but the warbling/wobble is still there. Do you know what it would likely be out of what I have mentioned. As a side topic do you know what might make the car over rev from cold start that is to do with the ambient temperature of the engine is higher. Only over revs when the weather gets warmer and the temperature of the engine is starting warmer. Thanks
We have a 2015 R60 Countryman S with the N18 engine that has a loud rattle when cold. I have ordered the kit, the timing tool, and the belt tools. I sincerely appreciate your excellent video. It was just what was needed to give me the confidence to do this job. Thanks a million for taking the time to do it.
I purchased a 2010 Mini S about a year ago and recently took it to the Mini dealer for repairs and the quote given made it impractical to keep this vehicle, ... until I came across your video. I've reviewed many videos on the timing chain repair found them lacking in detail. I can only describe your video as, ..."The Best of the Best". Hence, I am confident I will be able to keep my car after this project. I'm going to also review your oil housing repair video, and if it's presentation & clarity is anywhere near this video, I will take on both repairs and be a happy camper, thank you!
as an apprentice mechanic i thank you for this brilliant video, been having misfiring issues on mine and didn't know what it was. i had a slight idea that it was the timing chain but haven't really found out until i found this video thanks you've really helped.
Thank you very very much from Paris, without your video I never find broken loosing parts on the stainer. (No odb error for myself) I repeated your video a lot of time before mounted the timing chain. My r55 works very well now. It was a real pleasure to have your experience in my garage. Take care and all the best for your youtube's chain.
This is a really great video. The first few minutes where you explain the symptoms of a bad cam chain and why the VANOS solenoids throw the error code are excellent - Edd China level stuff. Thank you!
Thank you for making this sir, super useful. Timing tasks can be daunting on engines you haven't carried the work out on before. Nothing like seeing the quirks being dealt with first hand before diving in 👍👍
Excellent video with easy-to-follow instructions. Many thanks to you for posting this as I referenced it (as well as my repair manual) several times while changing out the timing chain on my 2011 R56 Mini Cooper S. Now that I'm basically finished, I do have one question before I put the valve cover back on and reassemble the front end... Before tightening the crank & cam bolts, I checked the timing using the cam lock tool and the pin that goes in the fly wheel. Everything was spot on, so I tightened the crank bolt properly (50nm, then 180 degrees), followed by the intake sprocket bolt, then the exhaust sprocket (20nm then 180-degrees for each). After that I rotated the crank 2 times and rechecked the timing using the flywheel pin and cam locks. The pin went in fine and the exhaust side cam lock went on easily, but the intake side didn't line up 100%. There was about 5mm of gap where the exhaust cam lock piece and intake cam lock piece meet, so I had to loosen the intake cam sprocket bolt and rotate the cam slightly using a 27mm wrench to correct the timing. I then replaced the intake cam sprocket bolt with a new one (since it's a single-use bolt) and did the correct torque procedure again. Now everything lines up perfectly and I rotated the crank and rechecked the cam position 3 times to be sure. That said, here's the question: The correct procedure calls for tightening the crank bolt first, then the intake cam bolt, followed by exhaust cam bolt. Since my timing was off after doing that, I only changed and re-torqued the bolt on the intake cam, but should I have replaced and re-torqued both the intake cam bolt followed by exhaust cam bolt? I assume everything is fine since the timing all lines up as confirmed by the flywheel pin and cam locks, but I wanted your opinion. I have extra new cam bolts, but hate to do it again if I don't have to. Let me know what you think. Thanks! And thanks again for the great video!
My oil solenoid was shot. Causing high oil pressure. The excess pressure kept the tensioner tight... I swapped the oil solenoid and like 2 days later started it up to rattling..... I bought it used.... I knew I was gonna be doing this. Thank you for this.
Very impressed by this video, I feel a lot more confident about the thought of attempting this myself, first I'm going to make sure I have the tools you used, nothing worse than getting halfway through a job and realising you don't have one specific tool that's necessary!. Great video
I’m 50 years old.....I’ve never witnessed such a impeccable explanation to how to do something. I know nothing about engines You sir are a genius... By 12:03 I’d forgot what you’d removed . I own a mini and I wish you were near to where I live for you to service mine .. excellent work.
Just watching this again to get specs for cam pulley torques again as I’m going to try original pulleys as I don’t trust after market pulleys! Thanks again for the video as it is information gold !
Here from Los Angeles proud owner of two minis along with my wife,I gladly have the task of maintaining both and your video explaining how to replace the timing chain saved us so much money ,thank you for doing what you do
@@TheMiniSpecialist hi mini specialist I have a problem with my 2007 mini cooper base model my check oil comes out and when I check the oil it’s at normal level I know it’s not a good sign to get that sign so I just have my cooper parked till I get it figured out thank you any ideas would help
I have very loud rattle, on a Pug 3008, which is not a trait of the chain, but more one of the vvt cam sprocket failing. I have no slack in the chain, with no visible damage to the guides. I fitted a new chain tensioner 2 months ago, and there was no significant difference. I had this issue on a Nissan 200sx where the vvt sprocket became extremely audible on its vvt inlet sprocket due to low oil level. This is a very informative video, as I am doing some trial and error work on my own vehicle
Hello MiniMaster, absolut great and the best Mini Work Help Video ever seen, its my first Timing Chain i replaced, but with your video that gave me the confidence to it and whats realy great ist your step by step works. For you Thousand Thanks from me. Great Job you'v done👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That's a work that needs to be appreciated I saw the same engine in Peugeot 308 and it was so hard to change it without a preknowledge and the proper tools
Great video and approach to teaching. You are the top man and I’ve watched literally hundreds of tutorials for a variety of things. It looks more complex than surgery like replacing hips and knees :)
Thank you for this video. We'll be taking our 2010 Mini Clubman S into the dealer on Monday. We've recently began hearing a noise from the engine compartment on cold start that goes away when warm. The tensioner was changed in 2014, but rather be safe than sorry. I should add we are the 2nd owners of the car. Currently to change the timing chain it's $1800 USD. Expensive, but a far sight cheaper than a new/rebuilt motor.
Great video. Fantastic detail and hints and tips...couldn't be any clearer. Gave me the confidence to tackle this job on my driveway and it kept our lovely but high miler cooper on the road. Various times in my life I have not been able to afford the labour costs of garages and people like yourself are obe level gems! You give people an option to tackle the job themselves. Great channel Great detail Subscribed and shared and loved every minute.
Glad it was useful. I take the view that if you want and can do this yourself then happy to show you. If you cant then at least you know what is involved.
Very helpful I’m waiting on some parts to come in before I start my timing chain repair this will be my first time attempting this work on my mini countryman s its a 2014 so thank you for insight
Thank you very much. This video is of great help. I have this job in front of me and being old fashioned, i usually seek help from the Haynes manual. In that manual , the accessibility issues are brushed aside, your work illustrate and resolve them brilliantly. This said, i have a technical query about the locking of the crankshaft: at 24.15 and then at 41.30 you undo and then retorque the crankshaft bolt against the crankshaft locking pin. The authors of the Haynes manual advise against this: While they of course make it clear that the crankshaft pin should be in place during the timing chain replacement, they recommend to remove it temporarily and to instead lock the crankshaft via the transmission (high gear engaged and firm pressure on the brakes) when it come to undo and then to retorque the crankshaft bolt. There are no explanations for this but it appears that they fear that the pin may snap under the high torques involved. I would be very grateful for your comments on this, have you ever heard about the pin failing or do you see any merits to the "transmission lock" method that they recommend ? I am sincerely grateful for your work and advice. Philippe
We usually do one of these a week and always use the pin to lock the crank to torque up the crank bolt. The same pin each time I might add. Without it I would be fearful of the timing being out.
I just did my chain following step by step from the video. Here are a couple things I found that might help the next person. The bolt under the intake is much easier to get after you are able to lower the engine with the jack. Best to replace the crank seal while you are there. When reassemble, make sure the mechanism from the crank pulley and water pump is engaging the transfer between.
Great video! I have done engine rebuilt by specialized firm, with new timing chain, but my mechanic got me scared saying the engine reconstruction is done badly! The reconstruction guys advised the last passage, resetting the values! So there is still hope, although my mechanic is telling me timing chain is noisy! I will keep hoping for happy ending! Thank you very much!
Thank you for your wonderfully produced video. It seems a rarity to find a video that comes through with content that actually teaches the original content that it promises to deliver in the title. I hope to view more of your videos in the future. Well Done!
So I changed the Vanos. I still have code 14 and 15. I changed so far one of the two cam sensors and it did not go away. Once the car warms up I have like maybe 50% power
Hi Many thanks for the excellent expansion but also would be kind enough to tell me what is torque for the 3 bolts for the chain and most importantly the chain tensioner. Many thanks
Thanks for the great video. I am about to undertake the same task on my daughters 07 mini R56 N12 and this practical demonstration has provided me with the confidence to go ahead. I am use to working on motor bikes. Cheers
Amazing video!!! Thanks so much I’m half way through the job and have found no damage to the guides when I removed them. I’m doing the job as the N18 2012 JCW engine has a loud rattle in all running condition, but now concerned this isn’t the root cause. Could it still be noisy because of the chain even without guide damage? While it’s taken apart should I look for something else before I rebuild No engine codes being flagged either. before
Incredibly helpful video, did the job in six hours! My mini had a rough idle, changing the chain helped but it's still not running perfecty. No check engine light tho. Does anybody has an idea where i could look next?
I probably missed it, but you replaced the bottom crank bolt and the cam bolts with brand new, yes? Torque to yield should always be replaced. They get strain hardened when they yield, and reusing them can cause them to break, or the cams or crank to break. You know they are TTY bolts when it's got a turning degree spec (180 degrees) after an initial torque. I can't stress the importance of using brand new TTY bolts enough. I'm a mechanical engineer, I'm the guy who specifies what bolts to use and the required torque. Torque to yield is a fantastic spec, because the clamping force of that bolt has reached it's highest point and won't change. Regular torque measurements are actually highly inaccurate in comparison.
Great video and thank you for sharing. I have the same year and model of the mini you repaired. As you my crankcase breather hose is broken. I have searched website after website and can not find anyone who has the correct replacement. I was hoping that you or a fellow subscriber could provide the name of a supplier. It seems this breather hose was discontinued. Thank you for any help you can provide.
It looks like you could 'buy' yourself some extra space by removing the engine mounting from the body, maybe just 2 easy bolts? Great video, thanks for posting.
Good quality video thank you I’ve found it easier to just remove throttle body housing (four torque screws) to get at the chain tensioner and you didn’t mention the fact that the camshafts can’t be locked in place until you realign them by undoing the e14 bolts and adjusting their position by however much so the locking clamps sit squarely (exhaust first followed by inlet) on the cams all of this comes after placing the locking pin in. Tell me if I’m doing it wrong ?
Like the throttle body housing idea - much easier if you don't have a lift. As for locking the camshafts- not sure about that. Lock the crank first ensuring the writing on the camshafts is showing and if the timing is correct the locking tool should go on without an issue. If the chain has stretched you can create some wiggle by removing the tensioner. That said once the chain is removed the cams can be locked and should stay locked until everything is torqued up anyway...
Hands down best viddy for this job...since i cannot buy you a pint, ive chipped in a few duckets in yer karmic accoount...thanx bruvvah...super job really...BTW best parts haus? cheers....
wish there was someone remotely like you up here in Edinburgh. I need mine done, but lack the space to do it myself. Always worried about giving this kind of job that has lots of brand specific knowledge to a random mechanic!
@@TheMiniSpecialist Much needed.... I did consider whether it was cost effective to have the car transported down. It's a lovely R58 JCW coupe, and i'm trying to give it the best care I can, as it was obviously neglected a bit by previous owner. Runs strong but occasional rattle from engine bay gives me the fear! I'd engage with the work myself, but I live in a flat and a street doesnt seem the best place to try this ;) If i can keep car working long enough, I have family down south, so may speak to you about dropping off!
Probably goes without saying since it was mentioned in the video, but it’s super important to install the timing chain tensioner before you tighten down the cam sprockets. I didn’t do this and ended up a tooth out, luckily figured out the problem before I fired it up.
Excellent vid I have a question I have bought a 2009 mini that wasn’t going and was told it needed a timing chain so I bought the car to fix up … now I have it stripped down ready to put a new chain in however I found when stripping it down it was a major as although the chain was still in tact the plastic fantastic chain guide had disintegrated and the chain had eaten the metal top guide bracket away hence lots of metal fragments went down into the sump, the oil pickup was almost totally blocked with plastic and metal fragments and gasket sealant most like from using too much sump sealant ..so should I use a gasket on the sump or more gasket sealant . ps I hope not to many metal fragments got into the oil gallery’s as some fragments were found on the mesh of the exhaust vanos actuator sensor ill soon know after I assemble and run it and hear crank knocks after while
Currently doing this job. My crank locking pin only goes in with the cams 180 degrees out(writing facing down, round bit facing up). If i lock them like this, everything should be fine? Or should i lock the crank, remove the chain, and then rotate the cams to the correct position?
Hi, brilliant video very informative. Couple of questions, do you need to replace the crank bolt, and the cam shaft gear bolts? Because of stretching of the bolts. And where can I get the torque setting for my particular model, which is a N12 engine 2007. Also when you completed the install you where able to reset the cam positioning limits, unfortunately I don’t have a diag machine is there any other way of completing this process with out the diag machine. Thanks
Thank you! Some kits have a new crank bolt and I usually replace it. I have never changed the camshaft gear bolts however. Torques are - Crank Bolt - 50mn +180 degrees Camshaft bolts - 20nm + 180 degrees for all of the N series Mini engines. Finally - you should get away without resetting the camshaft limits. The ECU monitors the cam angle as part of the variable cam timing set up - the engine management light comes on when the chain is too long because the VANOS actuators can no longger keep the timing within spec. A new chain should change that.
Hey Mini specialist, I just did the head gasket on the same engine. I don’t know what the issue is but the timing chain is super tight now. I used a 1.20 head gasket and I replaced the upper timing chain guide and just reassembled .
Fairplay.... Excellent and extremely informative. Do you know anyone who could do this on my daughter's R56?? BMW want 3000 pounds.... The rattle started this morning.... Absolutely gutted... I'm located in West Wales.... Keep up the fantastic work👍👍👍👍👍
Great video. Does the camshaft lock kit fit both 2008 Mini cooper s turbo r56 N14 and mini cooper r56 n12?? I got an aftermarket kit from eBay has both lock adapter for intake camshaft
Great vid and excellent knowledge. If I remove the valve cover will I be able to tell if the chain is loose. I have a 2009 r56 with bad idle and continuous check engine light. Thanks again.
Hey first of all thanks for such an in-depth tutorial i wondering if i could ask a question ? I have all my locking tools in place and ive replaced the chain and torque spec the crankshaft bolt but when i try to do the additional 90 degrees i got maybe 50 on and the chain kind of clunked round i checked all the locking tools the pin in the crank and and checked the writing was still up and everything was fine just cant understand why its done that i cant get it any tighter without the chain trying to move I've left it till tomorrow now but thought id see if i could get some advice. Thanks again 🙏🏾
@@TheMiniSpecialist thank you for the reply i do have an upgraded race clutch but it all held when taking apart I think I'll be okay I have seen some discrepancy with 180 degree and 100 people saying if it's a new bolt do it to 180 if not 100 but I think Im somewhat over the 100 but not quite the 180 i generally cant get the bolt any tighter so im thinking its gunna have to be okay lol I hope all will be okay i turn the engine over when im done just to make sure the timing is okay
I bought a turbo MIni last September and two days later the car died on the highway. The crank pulley bolt was completely out. Tried replace it and the new one just free spun. Pulled off the valve cover and all exaust rockers no longer have spring tension. Removed the oil pan this weekend and one side of the chain is taught, but not the other. Also, those familiar plastic bits are broken off next to the chain. Looks like I'll have to pull the head to see if the pistons came into contact with the valves. I've never felt so ripped off before. Can you think of anything else I should look into while I have it apart?
Very helpful video - thank you. I was able to do the replacement successfully. After 5k miles of no problems, cylinder 3 misfires consistently when temp reaches about 200 degrees F. When engine temp falls below 200 F, no more misfire. Coils, plugs, injectors are all good. Pls advise on what you think is problem.
hi great instructional video. iv just purchased low mileage 4000miles 2014 n16 , should i expect these problem early on , or is i good for 50k ? cheers.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. About to try this for the first time. Is it essential to use new torque yield bolts for the cam pulleys and is the crank bolt torque yield also? Thanks
Great video! I haven’t done the job yet, but I feel more than ready to tackle it after watching your video. It’s video creators like you that make it possible for young at home mechanics like me to tackle these fairly “big” jobs.
Actzally we bought a second Mini clubman s R55. What should I say I changed the timing chain etc a second time with your help. Thank you so much! Two minis in the family is double fun.;)
2010 Mini Clubman R55 N12 103k miles. New timing and oil chains in. New bolts, the Haynes manual specifies torque spec less at 100 degrees than an instructional video at 180 degrees. Excellent video, but he tightens things more in the video both in torque and stretch degrees and is a bit lax on chain guide bolt torque over-tightening with impact? Did the specs ever change because of all the manufacturing disasters or is he over tightening by accident or for good reason? I have not done the stretch phase yet. I did go 1 ft-lb over each torque spec in the Haynes manual though. The Detroit Tuned kit crank shaft bolt is a bit different too.
We do about one of these a week now and use the same techniques and torques as in my video - which are what the manufacture specifies. The specs have not changed.
Brillant tutoriel, you share a lot of detail to be able to do a good job 👍I have just a question about tensioner When you screwed the Cam shafts. Is it necesary to use a tool ( replace tensioner by a specific tool) to be able to have the right effort during This phase ? I have one in the N12 motor case tools. Thanks a lot. Vincent. PS : sorry for my english, l’m french ! 😉
Hi Vincent - thank you for your comments and btw your English is a million times better than my French! When you say 'tensioner' you could mean the actual camshaft tensioner which is a large spring loaded bolt - this is 27mm and just needs to be tight - there maybe a torque setting but as long as it cannot vibrate lose then simply make sure it is tight. The other possible thing is are the bolts holding the camshaft sprokets in - these bolts are torx headed bolts - E14's to be precise - and when replacing these need to be tightened to 20nm +180 degrees. Does that answer your question?
Hi The Mini Specialist, thanks for your responsiveness. yes l'm speaking about the camshaft tensionner 27mm. Inside it you have a spring without a huge effort, due to you have hydraulic effort when the motor is on. My concern is when you screw the first camshaft perhaps the camshaft gear can rotate a little (0.000001° perhaps 🤣😂) due to the low effort of the spring effort (27mm). Morever i have an additional tool in my kit 🤔 to replace the camshaft tensioner (27mm) during the reassembly. I had starded the timing chain replacement yesterday, l’m not an expert, l have a lot of questions on mean! It’s my DIY of the week end. One more time, very good vidéo, I wait the next one 😉
Providing you use the camshaft locking tool and the pin for the flywheel you cannot really go wrong - I tighten in this order - bottom crankshaft bolt first (50mn +180 degrees) then the two cam sprockets finger tight only (but make sure they are seated all the way in) - then put the 27mm tensioner in place and tighten all the way. Then torque up the 2 crankshaft bolts (20 nm+180 degrees). Hope this helps and good luck this weekend. Regards Hugh.
Pmsl every time you say cogs it keeps ringing In my ears my collage tutor screaming at me clocks have cogs not engines great informative video mate thanks
Thank you! I suppose your tutor has a point - but a cog is a gear wheel with teeth sooo... Anyway I googled "do engines have cogs" and found this - "People can also be cogs" didn't know I was part of a clock :-)
The Mini Specialist but a real thank you for taking time to do videos and educating us I myself am a mechanic of 25 years + and use good quality videos as a reference so again a big thanks keep it going
Excellent informative video, my daughters '57 mini one EMI lamp came on, P1050 and P1062 were stored which looked like they referred to valvetronic system. Car has 103k miles on, not sure if the chain has been changed before and there's a bit of a clatter at start up so I thought I'd check it out. Bit above my capability I think. I'm going to change the eccentric cam sensor first, If I change the valvetronic motor can the end points be taught manually as I don't have the support tool?
What do you mean by 'eccentric cam sensor'? The cams are not eccentric. Also the valvetronic has nothing to do with the chain..... It works like this. The camshaft sensors read the current camchaft angle. To adjust this angle the ECU tells the VANOS actuators to allow more oil to the VVC sproket(s) whilst monitoring the camshaft angles and continually adusts camshaft angles according to engine load and speed. When the chain becomes too long the ECU can no longer maintain the correct camshaft angles and usually reports a 'VANOS STOP' error leading most people to change out the VANOS actuator - when this is not the problem at all. A chain is just metal and cannot complain. The VANOS error occurs because the ECU cannot achieve the desired camshaft angles and lights the EML. Sometimes it's the VANOs actuators or rarely the VVC sprockets but most often its the chain itself. Hope this helps.
Hi, Excellent informative video. A question, if the writing on the cams are not at the top, once the camshaft cogs are removed and the chain is off can I remove the locking tool and turn the cam slightly to get the writing on the top then refit the locking tool.
Hope you can answer this. But I bought a stage 3 clutch set along with a aluminum flywheel and I’m missing the hold to set the pin through the flywheel so time the chain right. Idk what to do
Great vid thank you, I am about to try this on my C4 Grand Picasso with a N14 engine. It has VVt on the intake cam only. Showing code P0011 , and replacing the solenoid and oil change hasn't helped. Other videos say to install the top chain guide before torquing the chain?
Either - doesn't make much difference. I always put the tensioner in first whilist having the top two camshaft bolts and the bottom crank bolt finger tight only. Once the tensioner is in then torque up the camshaft bolts followed by the crank bolt. Then I put the top guide on - but like I said this makes no material difference.
Really helpful, thank you. A couple of questions. What sort of code reader is needed to reset the VANOS? Also, how can you tell when the sprockets need replacing? Kind regards Pete
I think most code readers will - I have 3 a very basic one, a middle range one and a top end one and they all can reset the vanos adaptations. The sprockets only need replacing if they are faulty. The originals rarely go wrong and the aftermarket ones are the ones to avoid
If you get a moment, I'd really appreciate your thoughts. My car had code 15 inlet cam over-retarded and a misfire. I have changed the timing chain, and it went smoothly I thought. It starts better now, the misfire is gone, but there is a new and horrible clatter, which sounds like cam/valve noise (the rotation test went OK, although I did not try the crank pin test) I still have code 15. I have not reset the Vanos yet, as I need to get a better code reader. The chain tensioner which I replaced was less than finger tight. What do you think, would a Vanos reset fix this, or do you think I have made a serious mistake with the timing?
I've re-watched your video, and I think I put the tensioner in after torquing the cam sprockets, so I guess the timing is slightly out. I'll check in tomorrow
Hello I need your halp I done a chain replacement and car is hard 2 start locked cams in with tool pined crank so I had a look and when I was turning crank 2 line every thing up I noticed at the cam pully on the intake side is moving but not moving the cam it self so do I need a now intake pully as I don't think it is looking as it should
Nice video we have 2 r56 minis in our family cooper D which is amazing and a nasty 1.4 mini one which every fails mot every year on emissions what normally causes bad emissions on n12 engine is it carbon build up
the N14 engine valve seals often dry out and crack causing oil consumption - plus in my the 1.4 is especially bad when it comes to the piston rings - for some reason the oil ring becomes carboned up and loses its ability to stop oil coming past causing more oil consumption. To test let your engine idle for 3 to 4 mins and then rev the engine - if the valve seals and/or the oil rings are worn then you will get a big cloud of blus smoke from the exhaust.
No - they are very different. There are 2 diesel engines in the second gen BMW Mini. The pre facelift was a PSA engine which is very reliable. The post facelift is the BMW N47 which is prone to camchain failure. See my N47 camchain videos for details.
When you aligned both camshafts so that you can put the lock tool on, you noticed the exhaust camshaft off. I have the same issue. Exhaust camshaft off by approximately 30 degree. after aligned using the lock tool and engine start,. I now have codes p0015 then p0014. I performed the same procedure as you did
Hi I have a 2007 mini had faults for inlet actuator movement and car was running extremely rough and cutting out I replaced the chains and sprockets kit then reset the codes by doing the vanos reset. It seems to have made a difference but when I drive the car over 40mph it’s starts shaking and loosing power.Any advise please?but-any time I reset the adaptations it rus fine but then does same thing
Excellent Video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just bought a 2011 countryman All4S with a 112000Kms and I am looking forward to do the timing job on it . I also have a problem with the Automatic transmission when using the D mode the transmission will kick whereas when using the paddle shift in M mode it seems to be fine ,, only rarely that it stops engaging on the 4th or 6ths gear, and turning off the car and restarting it will reset it and then respond to shifting again ,, any advice on how to tackle this issue would be greatly appreciated . there is no slipping between gears and apparently the transmission oil was changed 4 months ago ,, (as per the previous owner)
This is the best video on a mini timing chain job on UA-cam. Thank you sir, you’re a godsend.
Thankyou for that comment. We are always here to help so please let us know if you have any queries regarding the video or MINIs in general.
bonsoir, j'ai une mini cooper s de 2012 le 184 ch.
Depuis quelque temps la voiture a tout les rapport tousse. Le garagiste a changé les bougies , vanos et ça continue. Le garage Peugeot a sortie comme problème que ça venait de la chaine de distribution. Qu'est ce que vous en pensez ?@@TheMiniSpecialist
He's definitely a proper English tradesman !
Listening to a man like this you can learn a lot !
Great Video.
I'm blown away by this video. So informative. I estimate the chances of me messing up the repair I'm doing on my Mini have gone down by 90%. Thank you so much. I owe you a beer.
I'll accept a beer any day - thank you.
Fantastic vid, this will be appreciated for years to come 👍🏻
I would like to thank you for the wonderful explanation on how to do the timing chain procedures . your illustration of the repair with the engine on the stand was a great idea , showing what has to be removed gave me a better under standing what and were to look for in that tight engine bay. I would encourage you to continue to show these illustrations on the engine stand whenever possible thank you very much.
Appreciate the feedback - thank you. Have done a similar video on how to change a waterpump on a Mini that may interest you.
Appreciate the feedback tbank you
See z
@@TheMiniSpecialist thank you panjabi
@@TheMiniSpecialist Hi guys. I have Peugeot 308 THP 200 EP6 that has already had the timing done by the Dealer at 70000 miles. Now they couldn’t find out what caused the timing to be out. The engine continues to warble on startup and when idling. So I am thinking its either the chain kit needs replacing or one of the tensioners on the way put, the Solenoids need replacing or there is an issue with pulleys and tensioners. Without wishing to throw £1000s at the dealer I am not sure which to try first. The RAC put a sound scope on the front belt tensioner and that was making a resonation so I had that replaced but the warbling/wobble is still there. Do you know what it would likely be out of what I have mentioned. As a side topic do you know what might make the car over rev from cold start that is to do with the ambient temperature of the engine is higher. Only over revs when the weather gets warmer and the temperature of the engine is starting warmer. Thanks
We have a 2015 R60 Countryman S with the N18 engine that has a loud rattle when cold. I have ordered the kit, the timing tool, and the belt tools. I sincerely appreciate your excellent video. It was just what was needed to give me the confidence to do this job. Thanks a million for taking the time to do it.
Best mechanical tutoring vid I've seen. All of what we need to know and none of the nonsense. Very thorough.
thank you!
I purchased a 2010 Mini S about a year ago and recently took it to the Mini dealer for repairs and the quote given made it impractical to keep this vehicle, ... until I came across your video. I've reviewed many videos on the timing chain repair found them lacking in detail. I can only describe your video as, ..."The Best of the Best". Hence, I am confident I will be able to keep my car after this project. I'm going to also review your oil housing repair video, and if it's presentation & clarity is anywhere near this video, I will take on both repairs and be a happy camper, thank you!
That video took many hours to film and then more time to edit - and comments like yours make it rewarding and worthwhile - many thanks.
as an apprentice mechanic i thank you for this brilliant video, been having misfiring issues on mine and didn't know what it was. i had a slight idea that it was the timing chain but haven't really found out until i found this video thanks you've really helped.
Thank you very very much from Paris, without your video I never find broken loosing parts on the stainer. (No odb error for myself) I repeated your video a lot of time before mounted the timing chain. My r55 works very well now. It was a real pleasure to have your experience in my garage. Take care and all the best for your youtube's chain.
Merci beaucoup
Excellent the best mini Cooper timing chain replacement video on you tube. And I have seen them all!
I changed the vvt pulleys today and car works fine again and no more timing issues! Veery happy.
This is a really great video. The first few minutes where you explain the symptoms of a bad cam chain and why the VANOS solenoids throw the error code are excellent - Edd China level stuff. Thank you!
Fantastic video! Learned lots. Respect to your expert knowledge and skills, so often underrated and not appreciated in a modern world👍
WOW! Great video. Technology and mechanical ability to do this job is over the top. You are a true mechanical surgeon!!
Thank you for making this sir, super useful. Timing tasks can be daunting on engines you haven't carried the work out on before. Nothing like seeing the quirks being dealt with first hand before diving in 👍👍
You are an amazing instructor. Very clear voice and good camera angles. Well done
Thank you! 😃
Another Thank You!
Practical, real, inclusive, and well displayed. A confidence builder.
Thank you - glad it was useful
Excellent video, I'll be referencing this heavily as I have to do this exact job soon. Thanks for the visual reference!
Appreciate the feedback - thank you.
Thanks Mini for making a complicated engine with no room to work
Excellent video with easy-to-follow instructions. Many thanks to you for posting this as I referenced it (as well as my repair manual) several times while changing out the timing chain on my 2011 R56 Mini Cooper S. Now that I'm basically finished, I do have one question before I put the valve cover back on and reassemble the front end...
Before tightening the crank & cam bolts, I checked the timing using the cam lock tool and the pin that goes in the fly wheel. Everything was spot on, so I tightened the crank bolt properly (50nm, then 180 degrees), followed by the intake sprocket bolt, then the exhaust sprocket (20nm then 180-degrees for each). After that I rotated the crank 2 times and rechecked the timing using the flywheel pin and cam locks. The pin went in fine and the exhaust side cam lock went on easily, but the intake side didn't line up 100%. There was about 5mm of gap where the exhaust cam lock piece and intake cam lock piece meet, so I had to loosen the intake cam sprocket bolt and rotate the cam slightly using a 27mm wrench to correct the timing. I then replaced the intake cam sprocket bolt with a new one (since it's a single-use bolt) and did the correct torque procedure again.
Now everything lines up perfectly and I rotated the crank and rechecked the cam position 3 times to be sure. That said, here's the question: The correct procedure calls for tightening the crank bolt first, then the intake cam bolt, followed by exhaust cam bolt. Since my timing was off after doing that, I only changed and re-torqued the bolt on the intake cam, but should I have replaced and re-torqued both the intake cam bolt followed by exhaust cam bolt? I assume everything is fine since the timing all lines up as confirmed by the flywheel pin and cam locks, but I wanted your opinion. I have extra new cam bolts, but hate to do it again if I don't have to. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
And thanks again for the great video!
My oil solenoid was shot. Causing high oil pressure. The excess pressure kept the tensioner tight... I swapped the oil solenoid and like 2 days later started it up to rattling.....
I bought it used.... I knew I was gonna be doing this.
Thank you for this.
Very impressed by this video, I feel a lot more confident about the thought of attempting this myself, first I'm going to make sure I have the tools you used, nothing worse than getting halfway through a job and realising you don't have one specific tool that's necessary!. Great video
I like the bracket method for torque-turn. I have always used a sharpie and checked it. Off to the hardware! Great video - thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I’m 50 years old.....I’ve never witnessed such a impeccable explanation to how to do something.
I know nothing about engines
You sir are a genius...
By 12:03 I’d forgot what you’d removed .
I own a mini and I wish you were near to where I live for you to service mine ..
excellent work.
Wow - thank you.
Just watching this again to get specs for cam pulley torques again as I’m going to try original pulleys as I don’t trust after market pulleys! Thanks again for the video as it is information gold !
Here from Los Angeles proud owner of two minis along with my wife,I gladly have the task of maintaining both and your video explaining how to replace the timing chain saved us so much money ,thank you for doing what you do
Glad it helped!
@@TheMiniSpecialist hi mini specialist I have a problem with my 2007 mini cooper base model my check oil comes out and when I check the oil it’s at normal level I know it’s not a good sign to get that sign so I just have my cooper parked till I get it figured out thank you any ideas would help
I have very loud rattle, on a Pug 3008, which is not a trait of the chain, but more one of the vvt cam sprocket failing. I have no slack in the chain, with no visible damage to the guides. I fitted a new chain tensioner 2 months ago, and there was no significant difference. I had this issue on a Nissan 200sx where the vvt sprocket became extremely audible on its vvt inlet sprocket due to low oil level. This is a very informative video, as I am doing some trial and error work on my own vehicle
Brilliant video! When I did my WaterPump, I jacked the engine up a few inches, instead of dropping it, the 3 bolts become very accesible then :)
Hello MiniMaster,
absolut great and the best Mini Work Help Video ever seen, its my first Timing Chain i replaced, but with your video that gave me the confidence to it and whats realy great ist your step by step works.
For you Thousand Thanks from me.
Great Job you'v done👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That's a work that needs to be appreciated I saw the same engine in Peugeot 308 and it was so hard to change it without a preknowledge and the proper tools
Excellent video,mine has a lumpy tick over,cleaned the vanos,changed the oil ,ticks over fine now ,will road test it tomorrow,fingers crossed,
Great video and approach to teaching. You are the top man and I’ve watched literally hundreds of tutorials for a variety of things. It looks more complex than surgery like replacing hips and knees :)
LOL - have never replaced hips or knees so I can't comment - but seriously doubt it.... Thanks for the nice comments.
So very good to have the engine out to clearly show what happens
looks like you might know what your doing
Thank you for this video. We'll be taking our 2010 Mini Clubman S into the dealer on Monday. We've recently began hearing a noise from the engine compartment on cold start that goes away when warm. The tensioner was changed in 2014, but rather be safe than sorry. I should add we are the 2nd owners of the car. Currently to change the timing chain it's $1800 USD. Expensive, but a far sight cheaper than a new/rebuilt motor.
I have to say that $1800 is too much. We charge £641 with is about $830 so shop around.
Great video. Fantastic detail and hints and tips...couldn't be any clearer. Gave me the confidence to tackle this job on my driveway and it kept our lovely but high miler cooper on the road.
Various times in my life I have not been able to afford the labour costs of garages and people like yourself are obe level gems! You give people an option to tackle the job themselves.
Great channel
Great detail
Subscribed and shared and loved every minute.
Glad it was useful. I take the view that if you want and can do this yourself then happy to show you. If you cant then at least you know what is involved.
Thanks for the bit about the scan tool. I just bought one off eBay for my timing chain replacement (2011 R55 124,000 miles).
Sending a Thank You! For the walk through. You, my friend are a rockstar!
Very helpful I’m waiting on some parts to come in before I start my timing chain repair this will be my first time attempting this work on my mini countryman s its a 2014 so thank you for insight
Thank you very much. This video is of great help. I have this job in front of me and being old fashioned, i usually seek help from the Haynes manual. In that manual , the accessibility issues are brushed aside, your work illustrate and resolve them brilliantly. This said, i have a technical query about the locking of the crankshaft: at 24.15 and then at 41.30 you undo and then retorque the crankshaft bolt against the crankshaft locking pin. The authors of the Haynes manual advise against this: While they of course make it clear that the crankshaft pin should be in place during the timing chain replacement, they recommend to remove it temporarily and to instead lock the crankshaft via the transmission (high gear engaged and firm pressure on the brakes) when it come to undo and then to retorque the crankshaft bolt. There are no explanations for this but it appears that they fear that the pin may snap under the high torques involved. I would be very grateful for your comments on this, have you ever heard about the pin failing or do you see any merits to the "transmission lock" method that they recommend ?
I am sincerely grateful for your work and advice.
Philippe
We usually do one of these a week and always use the pin to lock the crank to torque up the crank bolt. The same pin each time I might add. Without it I would be fearful of the timing being out.
I just did my chain following step by step from the video. Here are a couple things I found that might help the next person. The bolt under the intake is much easier to get after you are able to lower the engine with the jack. Best to replace the crank seal while you are there. When reassemble, make sure the mechanism from the crank pulley and water pump is engaging the transfer between.
Forgot to also say thank you. Great video @theminispecialist
What timing tool kit is that? I got the ECS/pelican one, it does not fit my N16: only fits N12 and N14, despite saying it fits all three.
Great video! I have done engine rebuilt by specialized firm, with new timing chain, but my mechanic got me scared saying the engine reconstruction is done badly! The reconstruction guys advised the last passage, resetting the values! So there is still hope, although my mechanic is telling me timing chain is noisy! I will keep hoping for happy ending! Thank you very much!
Thank you for your wonderfully produced video. It seems a rarity to find a video that comes through with content that actually teaches the original content that it promises to deliver in the title. I hope to view more of your videos in the future. Well Done!
Wow, thank you!
So I changed the Vanos. I still have code 14 and 15. I changed so far one of the two cam sensors and it did not go away. Once the car warms up I have like maybe 50% power
Hi
Many thanks for the excellent expansion but also would be kind enough to tell me what is torque for the 3 bolts for the chain and most importantly the chain tensioner.
Many thanks
Sorry I meant explanations
Thanks for the great video. I am about to undertake the same task on my daughters 07 mini R56 N12 and this practical demonstration has provided me with the confidence to go ahead. I am use to working on motor bikes. Cheers
Great tutorial ! Great detail and hints and tips.
Amazing video!!! Thanks so much
I’m half way through the job and have found no damage to the guides when I removed them. I’m doing the job as the N18 2012 JCW engine has a loud rattle in all running condition, but now concerned this isn’t the root cause. Could it still be noisy because of the chain even without guide damage? While it’s taken apart should I look for something else before I rebuild
No engine codes being flagged either.
before
Incredibly helpful video, did the job in six hours!
My mini had a rough idle, changing the chain helped but it's still not running perfecty. No check engine light tho. Does anybody has an idea where i could look next?
Thank you so much for the very detailed video.
Regards from Atlanta GA...
I probably missed it, but you replaced the bottom crank bolt and the cam bolts with brand new, yes? Torque to yield should always be replaced. They get strain hardened when they yield, and reusing them can cause them to break, or the cams or crank to break. You know they are TTY bolts when it's got a turning degree spec (180 degrees) after an initial torque. I can't stress the importance of using brand new TTY bolts enough. I'm a mechanical engineer, I'm the guy who specifies what bolts to use and the required torque. Torque to yield is a fantastic spec, because the clamping force of that bolt has reached it's highest point and won't change. Regular torque measurements are actually highly inaccurate in comparison.
Great video and thank you for sharing. I have the same year and model of the mini you repaired. As you my crankcase breather hose is broken. I have searched website after website and can not find anyone who has the correct replacement. I was hoping that you or a fellow subscriber could provide the name of a supplier. It seems this breather hose was discontinued. Thank you for any help you can provide.
It looks like you could 'buy' yourself some extra space by removing the engine mounting from the body, maybe just 2 easy bolts? Great video, thanks for posting.
Good quality video thank you I’ve found it easier to just remove throttle body housing (four torque screws) to get at the chain tensioner and you didn’t mention the fact that the camshafts can’t be locked in place until you realign them by undoing the e14 bolts and adjusting their position by however much so the locking clamps sit squarely (exhaust first followed by inlet) on the cams all of this comes after placing the locking pin in. Tell me if I’m doing it wrong ?
Like the throttle body housing idea - much easier if you don't have a lift. As for locking the camshafts- not sure about that. Lock the crank first ensuring the writing on the camshafts is showing and if the timing is correct the locking tool should go on without an issue. If the chain has stretched you can create some wiggle by removing the tensioner. That said once the chain is removed the cams can be locked and should stay locked until everything is torqued up anyway...
Absolutely fantastic, very helpful and informative video! Thank you very much for what you do!
Greetings from Russia! ✌️
My pleasure!
Hands down best viddy for this job...since i cannot buy you a pint, ive chipped in a few
duckets in yer karmic accoount...thanx bruvvah...super job really...BTW
best parts haus? cheers....
wish there was someone remotely like you up here in Edinburgh. I need mine done, but lack the space to do it myself. Always worried about giving this kind of job that has lots of brand specific knowledge to a random mechanic!
I look forward to opening an Edingburgh branch of The Mini Specialist!
@@TheMiniSpecialist Much needed.... I did consider whether it was cost effective to have the car transported down. It's a lovely R58 JCW coupe, and i'm trying to give it the best care I can, as it was obviously neglected a bit by previous owner. Runs strong but occasional rattle from engine bay gives me the fear!
I'd engage with the work myself, but I live in a flat and a street doesnt seem the best place to try this ;)
If i can keep car working long enough, I have family down south, so may speak to you about dropping off!
Probably goes without saying since it was mentioned in the video, but it’s super important to install the timing chain tensioner before you tighten down the cam sprockets. I didn’t do this and ended up a tooth out, luckily figured out the problem before I fired it up.
Did you install the top chain guide before or after you tightened the chain?
@@lyt_w8t I’m pretty sure I fitted it after tensioning the chain.
Excellent vid I have a question I have bought a 2009 mini that wasn’t going and was told it needed a timing chain so I bought the car to fix up … now I have it stripped down ready to put a new chain in however I found when stripping it down it was a major as although the chain was still in tact the plastic fantastic chain guide had disintegrated and the chain had eaten the metal top guide bracket away hence lots of metal fragments went down into the sump, the oil pickup was almost totally blocked with plastic and metal fragments and gasket sealant most like from using too much sump sealant ..so should I use a gasket on the sump or more gasket sealant . ps I hope not to many metal fragments got into the oil gallery’s as some fragments were found on the mesh of the exhaust vanos actuator sensor ill soon know after I assemble and run it and hear crank knocks after while
Currently doing this job. My crank locking pin only goes in with the cams 180 degrees out(writing facing down, round bit facing up). If i lock them like this, everything should be fine? Or should i lock the crank, remove the chain, and then rotate the cams to the correct position?
Hi, brilliant video very informative. Couple of questions, do you need to replace the crank bolt, and the cam shaft gear bolts? Because of stretching of the bolts. And where can I get the torque setting for my particular model, which is a N12 engine 2007. Also when you completed the install you where able to reset the cam positioning limits, unfortunately I don’t have a diag machine is there any other way of completing this process with out the diag machine.
Thanks
Thank you! Some kits have a new crank bolt and I usually replace it. I have never changed the camshaft gear bolts however. Torques are - Crank Bolt - 50mn +180 degrees Camshaft bolts - 20nm + 180 degrees for all of the N series Mini engines. Finally - you should get away without resetting the camshaft limits. The ECU monitors the cam angle as part of the variable cam timing set up - the engine management light comes on when the chain is too long because the VANOS actuators can no longger keep the timing within spec. A new chain should change that.
The Mini Specialist Thank you very much,
Hey Mini specialist, I just did the head gasket on the same engine. I don’t know what the issue is but the timing chain is super tight now. I used a 1.20 head gasket and I replaced the upper timing chain guide and just reassembled .
Well - it is supposed to be tight and the tensioner is a spring - so should allow movement....
Thanks for the great video , would camshft position sensor faults also be a symptom of a worn chain. Tia.
Fairplay.... Excellent and extremely informative. Do you know anyone who could do this on my daughter's R56?? BMW want 3000 pounds.... The rattle started this morning.... Absolutely gutted... I'm located in West Wales.... Keep up the fantastic work👍👍👍👍👍
We charge £800 (petrol) - maybe we should charge more? We are based in the West Midlands DY47LH - google 'The Mini Specialist' for our phone number
Great video. Does the camshaft lock kit fit both 2008 Mini cooper s turbo r56 N14 and mini cooper r56 n12?? I got an aftermarket kit from eBay has both lock adapter for intake camshaft
Depends. Some have parts to fit fit multiple heads - but each head is different.
Awesome video!! excellent explanation, much appreciated. One question, any suggestions on what scanner to buy in order to reset the VANOS?
I have a R56....do all my own work ..,doesn’t look so bad...luckily mine is still quiet....😀😀
Great vid and excellent knowledge. If I remove the valve cover will I be able to tell if the chain is loose. I have a 2009 r56 with bad idle and continuous check engine light. Thanks again.
Thank you for taking the time to make this informative video!
Hey first of all thanks for such an in-depth tutorial i wondering if i could ask a question ? I have all my locking tools in place and ive replaced the chain and torque spec the crankshaft bolt but when i try to do the additional 90 degrees i got maybe 50 on and the chain kind of clunked round i checked all the locking tools the pin in the crank and and checked the writing was still up and everything was fine just cant understand why its done that i cant get it any tighter without the chain trying to move I've left it till tomorrow now but thought id see if i could get some advice. Thanks again 🙏🏾
Never had that problem. The pin should hold. Maybe replace the pin holding the crank?
@@TheMiniSpecialist thank you for the reply i do have an upgraded race clutch but it all held when taking apart I think I'll be okay I have seen some discrepancy with 180 degree and 100 people saying if it's a new bolt do it to 180 if not 100 but I think Im somewhat over the 100 but not quite the 180 i generally cant get the bolt any tighter so im thinking its gunna have to be okay lol I hope all will be okay i turn the engine over when im done just to make sure the timing is okay
I bought a turbo MIni last September and two days later the car died on the highway. The crank pulley bolt was completely out. Tried replace it and the new one just free spun. Pulled off the valve cover and all exaust rockers no longer have spring tension. Removed the oil pan this weekend and one side of the chain is taught, but not the other. Also, those familiar plastic bits are broken off next to the chain. Looks like I'll have to pull the head to see if the pistons came into contact with the valves. I've never felt so ripped off before. Can you think of anything else I should look into while I have it apart?
Very helpful video - thank you. I was able to do the replacement successfully. After 5k miles of no problems, cylinder 3 misfires consistently when temp reaches about 200 degrees F. When engine temp falls below 200 F, no more misfire. Coils, plugs, injectors are all good. Pls advise on what you think is problem.
hi great instructional video. iv just purchased low mileage 4000miles 2014 n16 , should i expect these problem early on , or is i good for 50k ? cheers.
This is an amazing video. Going to pick me up a cooper today! sweet deal!
Thanks for the detailed explanation. About to try this for the first time. Is it essential to use new torque yield bolts for the cam pulleys and is the crank bolt torque yield also? Thanks
Not essential - recommended though.
Great video! I haven’t done the job yet, but I feel more than ready to tackle it after watching your video. It’s video creators like you that make it possible for young at home mechanics like me to tackle these fairly “big” jobs.
Actzally we bought a second Mini clubman s R55. What should I say I changed the timing chain etc a second time with your help. Thank you so much! Two minis in the family is double fun.;)
Nice one.
10:24 please elaborate on IF THE TIMING IS NOT CORRECT like it was here, what did you do? Thankie
2010 Mini Clubman R55 N12 103k miles.
New timing and oil chains in. New bolts, the Haynes manual specifies torque spec less at 100 degrees than an instructional video at 180 degrees. Excellent video, but he tightens things more in the video both in torque and stretch degrees and is a bit lax on chain guide bolt torque over-tightening with impact? Did the specs ever change because of all the manufacturing disasters or is he over tightening by accident or for good reason? I have not done the stretch phase yet. I did go 1 ft-lb over each torque spec in the Haynes manual though. The Detroit Tuned kit crank shaft bolt is a bit different too.
We do about one of these a week now and use the same techniques and torques as in my video - which are what the manufacture specifies. The specs have not changed.
@@TheMiniSpecialist What if I don't have a scan tool to reset vanos adaptations? If there a manual way or can I just drive it and it will learn?
Brillant tutoriel, you share a lot of detail to be able to do a good job 👍I have just a question about tensioner When you screwed the Cam shafts. Is it necesary to use a tool ( replace tensioner by a specific tool) to be able to have the right effort during This phase ? I have one in the N12 motor case tools. Thanks a lot. Vincent. PS : sorry for my english, l’m french ! 😉
Hi Vincent - thank you for your comments and btw your English is a million times better than my French! When you say 'tensioner' you could mean the actual camshaft tensioner which is a large spring loaded bolt - this is 27mm and just needs to be tight - there maybe a torque setting but as long as it cannot vibrate lose then simply make sure it is tight. The other possible thing is are the bolts holding the camshaft sprokets in - these bolts are torx headed bolts - E14's to be precise - and when replacing these need to be tightened to 20nm +180 degrees. Does that answer your question?
Hi The Mini Specialist, thanks for your responsiveness. yes l'm speaking about the camshaft tensionner 27mm. Inside it you have a spring without a huge effort, due to you have hydraulic effort when the motor is on. My concern is when you screw the first camshaft perhaps the camshaft gear can rotate a little (0.000001° perhaps 🤣😂) due to the low effort of the spring effort (27mm). Morever i have an additional tool in my kit 🤔 to replace the camshaft tensioner (27mm) during the reassembly. I had starded the timing chain replacement yesterday, l’m not an expert, l have a lot of questions on mean! It’s my DIY of the week end. One more time, very good vidéo, I wait the next one 😉
Providing you use the camshaft locking tool and the pin for the flywheel you cannot really go wrong - I tighten in this order - bottom crankshaft bolt first (50mn +180 degrees) then the two cam sprockets finger tight only (but make sure they are seated all the way in) - then put the 27mm tensioner in place and tighten all the way. Then torque up the 2 crankshaft bolts (20 nm+180 degrees). Hope this helps and good luck this weekend. Regards Hugh.
great video. the crankshaft tightening without holding the wrench in the middle was painful to watch though
Excellent video, thanks so much professor
Outstanding video.. very informative.. thank you so much
Invaluable video. Thank you
You are so good bro, I figured out after I watched ur video
Pmsl every time you say cogs it keeps ringing In my ears my collage tutor screaming at me clocks have cogs not engines great informative video mate thanks
Thank you! I suppose your tutor has a point - but a cog is a gear wheel with teeth sooo... Anyway I googled "do engines have cogs" and found this - "People can also be cogs" didn't know I was part of a clock :-)
The Mini Specialist but a real thank you for taking time to do videos and educating us I myself am a mechanic of 25 years + and use good quality videos as a reference so again a big thanks keep it going
We must have had the same tutor😂😂😂
Excellent informative video, my daughters '57 mini one EMI lamp came on, P1050 and P1062 were stored which looked like they referred to valvetronic system.
Car has 103k miles on, not sure if the chain has been changed before and there's a bit of a clatter at start up so I thought I'd check it out. Bit above my capability I think. I'm going to change the eccentric cam sensor first, If I change the valvetronic motor can the end points be taught manually as I don't have the support tool?
What do you mean by 'eccentric cam sensor'? The cams are not eccentric. Also the valvetronic has nothing to do with the chain.....
It works like this. The camshaft sensors read the current camchaft angle. To adjust this angle the ECU tells the VANOS actuators to allow more oil to the VVC sproket(s) whilst monitoring the camshaft angles and continually adusts camshaft angles according to engine load and speed.
When the chain becomes too long the ECU can no longer maintain the correct camshaft angles and usually reports a 'VANOS STOP' error leading most people to change out the VANOS actuator - when this is not the problem at all. A chain is just metal and cannot complain. The VANOS error occurs because the ECU cannot achieve the desired camshaft angles and lights the EML.
Sometimes it's the VANOs actuators or rarely the VVC sprockets but most often its the chain itself.
Hope this helps.
Hi, Excellent informative video. A question, if the writing on the cams are not at the top, once the camshaft cogs are removed and the chain is off can I remove the locking tool and turn the cam slightly to get the writing on the top then refit the locking tool.
Sure - As long as afterwards the timing is set properly
Hope you can answer this. But I bought a stage 3 clutch set along with a aluminum flywheel and I’m missing the hold to set the pin through the flywheel so time the chain right. Idk what to do
Great vid thank you, I am about to try this on my C4 Grand Picasso with a N14 engine. It has VVt on the intake cam only. Showing code P0011 , and replacing the solenoid and oil change hasn't helped.
Other videos say to install the top chain guide before torquing the chain?
Either - doesn't make much difference. I always put the tensioner in first whilist having the top two camshaft bolts and the bottom crank bolt finger tight only. Once the tensioner is in then torque up the camshaft bolts followed by the crank bolt. Then I put the top guide on - but like I said this makes no material difference.
@@TheMiniSpecialist ok great, thank you for the quick reply!
Really helpful, thank you. A couple of questions. What sort of code reader is needed to reset the VANOS? Also, how can you tell when the sprockets need replacing?
Kind regards Pete
I think most code readers will - I have 3 a very basic one, a middle range one and a top end one and they all can reset the vanos adaptations. The sprockets only need replacing if they are faulty. The originals rarely go wrong and the aftermarket ones are the ones to avoid
@@TheMiniSpecialist Very many thanks for your speedy reply. ATB
If you get a moment, I'd really appreciate your thoughts. My car had code 15 inlet cam over-retarded and a misfire. I have changed the timing chain, and it went smoothly I thought. It starts better now, the misfire is gone, but there is a new and horrible clatter, which sounds like cam/valve noise (the rotation test went OK, although I did not try the crank pin test) I still have code 15. I have not reset the Vanos yet, as I need to get a better code reader. The chain tensioner which I replaced was less than finger tight. What do you think, would a Vanos reset fix this, or do you think I have made a serious mistake with the timing?
I've re-watched your video, and I think I put the tensioner in after torquing the cam sprockets, so I guess the timing is slightly out. I'll check in tomorrow
Hello I need your halp I done a chain replacement and car is hard 2 start locked cams in with tool pined crank so I had a look and when I was turning crank 2 line every thing up I noticed at the cam pully on the intake side is moving but not moving the cam it self so do I need a now intake pully as I don't think it is looking as it should
Nice video we have 2 r56 minis in our family cooper D which is amazing and a nasty 1.4 mini one which every fails mot every year on emissions what normally causes bad emissions on n12 engine is it carbon build up
the N14 engine valve seals often dry out and crack causing oil consumption - plus in my the 1.4 is especially bad when it comes to the piston rings - for some reason the oil ring becomes carboned up and loses its ability to stop oil coming past causing more oil consumption. To test let your engine idle for 3 to 4 mins and then rev the engine - if the valve seals and/or the oil rings are worn then you will get a big cloud of blus smoke from the exhaust.
what an excellent bit of mechanics and a really nice bloke . just wouldn't mind get the name of the tools he used at the end . thanks.
Hi. Thanks for the video. Good job. Very comprehensive. One question, is this very similar for the 1.6 Cooper D?
Sidney.
No - they are very different. There are 2 diesel engines in the second gen BMW Mini. The pre facelift was a PSA engine which is very reliable. The post facelift is the BMW N47 which is prone to camchain failure. See my N47 camchain videos for details.
When you aligned both camshafts so that you can put the lock tool on, you noticed the exhaust camshaft off. I have the same issue. Exhaust camshaft off by approximately 30 degree. after aligned using the lock tool and engine start,. I now have codes p0015 then p0014. I performed the same procedure as you did
Try resetting adaptions
Hi I have a 2007 mini had faults for inlet actuator movement and car was running extremely rough and cutting out I replaced the chains and sprockets kit then reset the codes by doing the vanos reset.
It seems to have made a difference but when I drive the car over 40mph it’s starts shaking and loosing power.Any advise please?but-any time I reset the adaptations it rus fine but then does same thing
Excellent Video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just bought a 2011 countryman All4S with a 112000Kms and I am looking forward to do the timing job on it . I also have a problem with the Automatic transmission when using the D mode the transmission will kick whereas when using the paddle shift in M mode it seems to be fine ,, only rarely that it stops engaging on the 4th or 6ths gear, and turning off the car and restarting it will reset it and then respond to shifting again ,, any advice on how to tackle this issue would be greatly appreciated . there is no slipping between gears and apparently the transmission oil was changed 4 months ago ,, (as per the previous owner)
Sounds like a software issue - not had any problems with this particular gearbox but suggest you update the software as a first step.