I don't know if anyone has said this yet, but as a long time viewer, it just hit me how slimmed down you're looking! Well done fpr whatever you've been doing, and keep it up for sure!
I use a talc and resin paste mixture it is great for gap filling and so easy to use and sculpt I wet the paste slightly so it seeps into the gap and cure with a UV torch try it just mix up in a cup talc powder and resin till it becomes a paste consistently only keep the cup away from direct sunlight I use a old tuna can and other caa to cover over the top and I keep it in my hobbie draw I little bit goes a long was I hope this helps.
What a very enjoyable video mate, I liked how much painting and effort you put into the model. Well done, looks fantastic and so glad you didn't break the screen haha
@@battlebrothersamwater works better as it doesn’t evaporate as quick, or alternatively I use a little vegetable oil and find it really helps stop it sticking to my tools. But I use water to help smooth surfaces/blend surfaces.
I use resin in a syringe then slowly inject it into the gaps. If the gaps are big I'll hit it with a uv light quickly this helps fill it in. This is so much easier than putty.
A tip for miliput ive found is mix in a bit of green stuff. It will be a bit stiffer and more workable for joint filling, but also cure a bit better and sandable. Other than that... sprue goo never doesnt work
@@MGRayd yes! Vallejo putty is great for getting into small gaps! My only complaint with it is it dries fairly soft/spongy and shrinks a little, so I only use it for smaller gaps.
You can dilute milliput with IPA or water (only reason for one over the other is drying time) to make it as fluid as you wish, then you can use an old brush to paint this into the cracks and gaps.
Miliput works best like this: For modeling, set it rest for 30 min after mixing the two components, then it's ready to be used for 1 hour aprox, it will not be sticky and can be modeled as you want, for less textured surfaces you can finish it with isopropyl alcohol. For filling gaps, at the moment you finish mixing the components, add isopropyl alcohol, I normally use it in a bottle cap, add a small amount of miliput and fill the rest with alcohol, mix it and you should got a paste, dense enough to fill small gaps (this recipe I learned from Marco Frisoni from NJM in youtube, give him a visit) 😉
Airbrushing the oil wash on can get a lot work done fast on larger model. I literally flood the model, like keep spraying until it’s visibly wet and keep spraying a little longer. Then do the usual oil wash stuff. Just be very careful about how you deal with fumes as it’s obviously dangerous. Make sure there’s no risk of ignition anywhere in the room. I cannot stress enough, be very cautious. Some air extraction methods are not suitable for flammable fumes.
Yeah I figured it would be the same as spraying ak streaking grime which I've done once and liked the effect however with all the prep work that I had to do (and the clean up) I was put off by doing it again, thanks for the tips brother 😁
Instead of using miliput for small cracks try using wood filler/putty. It comes in big tubes and it's the same stuff Vallejo sells as their plastic putty. Any diy or poundstore probably has it.
Mix your milliput with some green stuff, you get a really great composite material that is stickier than milliput and softer than green stuff. (It makes great capes imo)
hola! en primer lugar , buen trabajo. en segundo y último lugar ...consejos. usa agua tibia para remover soportes y la misma resina uv para rellenar las grietas y espacios entre piezas. saludos!
I knew what model this was the first teaser clip you showed. I printed it this month and am painting it. I went FDM route though for 90% of it. I honestly love the design. Glad you dodged a huge bullet with the screen!
@@battlebrothersam it was good. A struggle at times and didn't come out perfect by any stretch of the imagination. Thinking of taking a hot tool and making some battle damage to a couple of the rough areas.
None. Games workshop doesn't like when people make exact copies of models for people to 3d print, since it would compete with them trying to sell models. It would also be a violation of their intellectual property to copy their models directly. This is a 3d printed model designed by someone else. It is similar enough to Games workshop designs that you could use it in an ork army as a stompa, but different enough that Games workshop won't use legal action to take down the models designer. This is the case for most 3d printed models. Similarly enough you can play with them, but not exact copies.
@@cheesetoasty9514 thanks, i liked the look of this model much more than the GW stompa, reminded me of a giant armored version of a super mutant behemoth from fallout
Hey Sam I wanted to ask how you are dealing with the fumes of your 3d printers, i'm thinking about getting myself a 3d printer but im a bit anxius about the healthrisks involved with resin and airbourne pollutants. Also seing a few vids about 3d priting and air quality/ side effects didn't help. If you could give me your view/ a few tips regarding my issiues would mean a lot to me. Thank you for your amazing content so far and big F for your slightly crushed Plate. Titan looks amazing tho
Hi brother, resin 3d printing is something that has to be taken seriously. For my fume management I had the printers in a seperate room and then when opening them I would open the window 10-15 minutes beforehand and during removing the plate and doing ipa wash, now it's in the shed it's the same thing but I leave the door open
@@battlebrothersam thanks a lot I think i can figure something out but i'll have to do a little bit more research to do it properly. Have a good weekend
@@dakirby1576 My printer lives in huge cardboard box with a couple of old PC fans running off a old 12v pus extracting the fumes out via 4" ducting. You dont need massive air flow just constant.
Personally, I prefer to use Apoxy Sculpt, two part comes in two separate containers. other then that, using water to moisten the clay or dip your silicon tools in vaseline. other tips would be to allow the clay to cure for a few minutes before using, this will give it a better consistency to work with.
Approximately 2 parts milliput to one part greenstuff is my golden ratio. It stops that awful silt problem, while remaining soft and easy to blend. Don't use water to lube. A bit of lotion or something.
I'm really new to 3d printing and just wanted to ask if I'm doing it right 1 I print my model 2 I wash it in my cleaning station for 10 mins 3 I leave it to dry overnight 4 cure it for about 3 minutes I just want to know if I am since the models I'm getting seem more white than gray like the actual resin any help is massively appreciated
Everything from what you have written sounds right, how clean is your isopropyl alcohol in the wash station? Are the models bone dry before you cure them? Are they white before you cure them?
@@battlebrothersam the ipa I'm pretty sure is clean fresh batch only like 2 days ago and they aren't bone dry but I don't know why since I leave them hanging in the basket of my cleaning station for 12 to 18 hours for example the model I've most recently printed came off the plate on Wednesday night I took of the supports and washed them let them dry all the way till yesterday night and then cured them and they still aren't bone dry
@@ryansidney1051 I would recommend two washes. First wash in a tub of “dirty” ipa and then into the wash station of “clean” ipa. The idea is the dirty wash gets the bulk of the uncured resin off and the clean wash gets the remaining residue off. If the models still look wet after drying overnight, give them a quick blast of a hairdryer. I hope this helps.
Never use milliput 'fresh'. Mix it then put the kettle on.wait 20 mins you still have plenty of work time. Also you can mix milliput and greenstuff to make Grilliput.
use resin from ur 3d printer and a uv light 405 ums or make a sludge of 99 % alco with resin suport parts make as thick as u need make sure to store in a dark room no sunlight ^^ have fun
Where did you get this great ork titan? It looks great! Nice that you tell your process with all ups and downs. 3d printing is cool but also complicated and needs some attention. Thanks again.
@@battlebrothersam Instead of painting on a layer of oil wash all over the mini - just dip it into a solution of the oil wash.... let it drip off (on a tray) and then proceed to the removal of the oil wash as usual with makeup pads or whatever. Save you a few minutes on each mini (good if you're doing 1000)
I'm noticing that you are pulling a lot from Marco Frisoni's toolset, but you aren't really trying to achieve his style - I think that's why you are struggling with placing highlights. They aren't edge highlights, they are volumetric highlights - and you aren't mixing up the gouaches on a pallet to work up to a really bright color, which will make it hard to pop your highlights
Personally i hate milliput for this reason, i have found that green stuff or even hobby putty (Mr. Hobby and Tamiya make basically the same stuff) work waaay better at filling gaps, and: F (That part of the vid made my heart jump into my throat).
LMAO when it happened I got that sinking sick stomach feeling! Thanks a few others have said about using resin with cornstarch/talc but I have never used green stuff either so I might pick up some as well and compare the next time I have to do this
Get access to the private discord by becoming a patreon today - www.patreon.com/battlebrothersam
Hey Sam,
With the commander package will you help source files? (Free or paid)
I don't know if anyone has said this yet, but as a long time viewer, it just hit me how slimmed down you're looking! Well done fpr whatever you've been doing, and keep it up for sure!
Thanks brother! 😁😁
Excellent job dude and the paint job looks great. The skin in particular is spot on. 👍
Thanks brother 😁
I use a talc and resin paste mixture it is great for gap filling and so easy to use and sculpt I wet the paste slightly so it seeps into the gap and cure with a UV torch try it just mix up in a cup talc powder and resin till it becomes a paste consistently only keep the cup away from direct sunlight I use a old tuna can and other caa to cover over the top and I keep it in my hobbie draw I little bit goes a long was I hope this helps.
Great tip! I have just replied to someone saying a similar thing so I will definitely try it on my next big model with gaps, thanks brother!
What a very enjoyable video mate, I liked how much painting and effort you put into the model. Well done, looks fantastic and so glad you didn't break the screen haha
Haha thanks brother 😁
get your milaput/green stuff slightly damp it helps a lot
Should I use water or IPA? I was soaking it with a paintbrush dipped in ipa which seemed to help but it was still a pain lol
@@battlebrothersam water or petroleum jelly works best. edit: the jelly for sculpting tools
@@battlebrothersamwater works better as it doesn’t evaporate as quick, or alternatively I use a little vegetable oil and find it really helps stop it sticking to my tools. But I use water to help smooth surfaces/blend surfaces.
@@tonarsilverwolf6485vaseline on Tools is a Game changer as well
Great job dealing with that situation.
Thanks although it could have been avoided LOL
I use resin in a syringe then slowly inject it into the gaps. If the gaps are big I'll hit it with a uv light quickly this helps fill it in. This is so much easier than putty.
That's a smart idea!
A tip for miliput ive found is mix in a bit of green stuff.
It will be a bit stiffer and more workable for joint filling, but also cure a bit better and sandable.
Other than that... sprue goo never doesnt work
For small gap filling I use Vallejo plastic putty, comes in a tube with a fine nozzle, easy to work with.
I didn't know that was a thing! Thanks brother 😁
@@MGRayd yes! Vallejo putty is great for getting into small gaps!
My only complaint with it is it dries fairly soft/spongy and shrinks a little, so I only use it for smaller gaps.
For filling prints, look at UV cured putty as an alternative to Milliput. It's basically UV resin, in putty form.
You can dilute milliput with IPA or water (only reason for one over the other is drying time) to make it as fluid as you wish, then you can use an old brush to paint this into the cracks and gaps.
Miliput works best like this:
For modeling, set it rest for 30 min after mixing the two components, then it's ready to be used for 1 hour aprox, it will not be sticky and can be modeled as you want, for less textured surfaces you can finish it with isopropyl alcohol.
For filling gaps, at the moment you finish mixing the components, add isopropyl alcohol, I normally use it in a bottle cap, add a small amount of miliput and fill the rest with alcohol, mix it and you should got a paste, dense enough to fill small gaps (this recipe I learned from Marco Frisoni from NJM in youtube, give him a visit) 😉
Airbrushing the oil wash on can get a lot work done fast on larger model. I literally flood the model, like keep spraying until it’s visibly wet and keep spraying a little longer. Then do the usual oil wash stuff.
Just be very careful about how you deal with fumes as it’s obviously dangerous. Make sure there’s no risk of ignition anywhere in the room. I cannot stress enough, be very cautious. Some air extraction methods are not suitable for flammable fumes.
Yeah I figured it would be the same as spraying ak streaking grime which I've done once and liked the effect however with all the prep work that I had to do (and the clean up) I was put off by doing it again, thanks for the tips brother 😁
Glad the screen didn't take any damage mate! The ups and downs of 3D printer sure are exciting sometimes. lol
Instead of using miliput for small cracks try using wood filler/putty. It comes in big tubes and it's the same stuff Vallejo sells as their plastic putty. Any diy or poundstore probably has it.
That hanging git is a mood 🤣
Mix your milliput with some green stuff, you get a really great composite material that is stickier than milliput and softer than green stuff. (It makes great capes imo)
Thanks brother 😁 I'm going to order some green stuff
Mixing Milliput with Green Stuff also changes the stickiness and the way it sculpts
Thanks brother! I'll have to order some green stuff to try it
I use iso and a brush for the milliput and it smooths out really nice.
From what I understand if you mix Millie putt with green stuff, it’s supposedly more stable and manageable
Thanks brother! Since so many of you are saying it I think it's time I order some green stuff 😁
hola! en primer lugar , buen trabajo. en segundo y último lugar ...consejos. usa agua tibia para remover soportes y la misma resina uv para rellenar las grietas y espacios entre piezas. saludos!
Hola hermano! lo siento no hablo muy bien español, pero muchas gracias por los consejos!
I knew what model this was the first teaser clip you showed. I printed it this month and am painting it. I went FDM route though for 90% of it. I honestly love the design. Glad you dodged a huge bullet with the screen!
Oh awesome! How was it printing on fdm?
Please do tell, what model is it?
@@forrestegan Station Forge Orkaz Mega Steppa
@@battlebrothersam it was good. A struggle at times and didn't come out perfect by any stretch of the imagination. Thinking of taking a hot tool and making some battle damage to a couple of the rough areas.
@@TheHikingReaderthanks very much!!
that looks really cool. I am new to warhammer, what model is this?
I suppose it could be used as a stompa in a Ork army
None. Games workshop doesn't like when people make exact copies of models for people to 3d print, since it would compete with them trying to sell models. It would also be a violation of their intellectual property to copy their models directly.
This is a 3d printed model designed by someone else. It is similar enough to Games workshop designs that you could use it in an ork army as a stompa, but different enough that Games workshop won't use legal action to take down the models designer.
This is the case for most 3d printed models. Similarly enough you can play with them, but not exact copies.
@@cheesetoasty9514 thanks, i liked the look of this model much more than the GW stompa, reminded me of a giant armored version of a super mutant behemoth from fallout
removable base also I'd say add some gobbos around the platforms of the titan.
yes u can do the wask with airbrush easier if your parts are bigger
I like to have bases on all my models so I can throw magnets on the bottom to carry around easier.
That's a smart idea! I think I'll have to do a base for this guy at some point
Hey Sam
I wanted to ask how you are dealing with the fumes of your 3d printers, i'm thinking about getting myself a 3d printer but im a bit anxius about the healthrisks involved with resin and airbourne pollutants. Also seing a few vids about 3d priting and air quality/ side effects didn't help. If you could give me your view/ a few tips regarding my issiues would mean a lot to me.
Thank you for your amazing content so far and big F for your slightly crushed Plate. Titan looks amazing tho
Hi brother, resin 3d printing is something that has to be taken seriously. For my fume management I had the printers in a seperate room and then when opening them I would open the window 10-15 minutes beforehand and during removing the plate and doing ipa wash, now it's in the shed it's the same thing but I leave the door open
@@battlebrothersam thanks a lot
I think i can figure something out but i'll have to do a little bit more research to do it properly. Have a good weekend
@@dakirby1576 My printer lives in huge cardboard box with a couple of old PC fans running off a old 12v pus extracting the fumes out via 4" ducting. You dont need massive air flow just constant.
@@B4MBI72 thank you for your insight. ill consider it when deciding on how to handle the issiue
Personally, I prefer to use Apoxy Sculpt, two part comes in two separate containers. other then that, using water to moisten the clay or dip your silicon tools in vaseline. other tips would be to allow the clay to cure for a few minutes before using, this will give it a better consistency to work with.
I've seen a few others use that stuff, I'll have a look and get ordering some
Approximately 2 parts milliput to one part greenstuff is my golden ratio. It stops that awful silt problem, while remaining soft and easy to blend. Don't use water to lube. A bit of lotion or something.
I'm really new to 3d printing and just wanted to ask if I'm doing it right
1 I print my model
2 I wash it in my cleaning station for 10 mins
3 I leave it to dry overnight
4 cure it for about 3 minutes
I just want to know if I am since the models I'm getting seem more white than gray like the actual resin any help is massively appreciated
Everything from what you have written sounds right, how clean is your isopropyl alcohol in the wash station? Are the models bone dry before you cure them? Are they white before you cure them?
@@battlebrothersam the ipa I'm pretty sure is clean fresh batch only like 2 days ago and they aren't bone dry but I don't know why since I leave them hanging in the basket of my cleaning station for 12 to 18 hours for example the model I've most recently printed came off the plate on Wednesday night I took of the supports and washed them let them dry all the way till yesterday night and then cured them and they still aren't bone dry
@@ryansidney1051 I would recommend two washes. First wash in a tub of “dirty” ipa and then into the wash station of “clean” ipa. The idea is the dirty wash gets the bulk of the uncured resin off and the clean wash gets the remaining residue off. If the models still look wet after drying overnight, give them a quick blast of a hairdryer.
I hope this helps.
I use gel superglue for filling the seams in my prints.
Awesome video!
Thanks brother! :D
I'd love to see some kind of Aeldari Titan or Exodite Dinosaur.
Oh yeah I done a smaller exodites diorama piece before but a really big dinosaur would be awesome
Add water to milliput
I think I'll try that among the other recommendations as well to test it out, thanks brother 😁
Never use milliput 'fresh'. Mix it then put the kettle on.wait 20 mins you still have plenty of work time. Also you can mix milliput and greenstuff to make Grilliput.
A cup of tea would help with the frustrations I have while using it 😂
Squidmar recommended a much better alternative to milliput. It’s an epoxy made by tamaya I think
Tau titan next please!
But which one? Is there multiple?
GEAT VID I wish I had a 3d printer
Thanks brother!
where can i get this stl, i want one xD
F for screen homie
Could’ve given me a call about your painting woes.
I will brother 😁
use resin from ur 3d printer and a uv light 405 ums or make a sludge of 99 % alco with resin suport parts make as thick as u need make sure to store in a dark room no sunlight ^^ have fun
Try wood putty it works great for me and is easy to sand
$15? It's hollow was it really 1kg?
Hahah check FEP iv got tape holding mine together.
😂😂 You live too close to the edge for me brother
Where did you get this great ork titan? It looks great! Nice that you tell your process with all ups and downs. 3d printing is cool but also complicated and needs some attention. Thanks again.
Omg, links to files?
😂
Make sure your tools are wet or it will stick to everything.
Yeah I think that's the problem I was having at one point
Dipping man - Dipping!!!! - Put your oil in a tub and dip the Kriegsmen!!! Let them drip dry on a tray and then wipe them off.
Is dipping going to give the same result as brushing it on? If yes then sign me up
@@battlebrothersam Instead of painting on a layer of oil wash all over the mini - just dip it into a solution of the oil wash.... let it drip off (on a tray) and then proceed to the removal of the oil wash as usual with makeup pads or whatever. Save you a few minutes on each mini (good if you're doing 1000)
Nice
Thanks brother
I'm noticing that you are pulling a lot from Marco Frisoni's toolset, but you aren't really trying to achieve his style - I think that's why you are struggling with placing highlights. They aren't edge highlights, they are volumetric highlights - and you aren't mixing up the gouaches on a pallet to work up to a really bright color, which will make it hard to pop your highlights
Personally i hate milliput for this reason, i have found that green stuff or even hobby putty (Mr. Hobby and Tamiya make basically the same stuff) work waaay better at filling gaps, and:
F
(That part of the vid made my heart jump into my throat).
LMAO when it happened I got that sinking sick stomach feeling! Thanks a few others have said about using resin with cornstarch/talc but I have never used green stuff either so I might pick up some as well and compare the next time I have to do this
Milliput sucks, I use some lotion to make it slightly less chalky
coat your finger in vasalen then work with the Mili put
F
Thanks brother 😂
f
Thanks for paying the respects brother :D
Fff
ffffff
Thanks brother
F
Thanks brother it means a lot :)
F
F
F
F