Always good to see another vehicle being brought back from the dead, keep up the good work ... we call these type of jobs ''time sponges '' - you can spend 16 hours in one area and still feel like you've just started. Most of these old tanks have had some pretty short term and low cost attempts to remedy corrosion applied to them, its just a time and era dynamic - but its still sickens me to discovery poor previous repairs - KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Panelbeater spraypainter for 52 years now.I can say to you very well done,you need a lot of patience in the body trade and you have it mate.I make a whole skin for these and its not easy,because you cant buy them.Keep up your good work and stay safe,all the very best to you....
Thanks Jeff, that is great to hear from such a seasoned professional! It certainly does require patience! I do enjoy working with metal as well, it's a very interesting material with many ways of manipulation that's for sure! Cheers
kia ora banrnsy just to some idea's on leaving it on the rotissory ..... i would defiantly do the main part of the filler work with it on rottis !! and while your hard at work doing the filler work i would send the chassis to the sand blasters with any other bits eg inner guards sway bars and other suspension bits.. And then have them all powder coated satin black this is cheaper than buying paint and your labour not to mention how much time and energy you'll save!! after you shape the body high build it with a high soild 2k primer filler primer .. then you need to get the doors court up so you can fill and block the doors and guards so they look like there cut from the same cloth so to speak after all this is done i would put back on chassis as to do final blocking and spot filling at a ture stand point and you will probably find you will find highs & low you missed i probly get a professional to look over it with trained eyes before top coating Hope this helps it works for me and keep it up mate 2yrs is not to bad at all some guys never finish ..keep it up
Hey Justin, yeah cheers mate, I reckon that is right on the money and the way I was thinking of going. That has confirmed it now, after you have hi filled and done final blocking should you run over again with epoxy to seal it or don't worry? The chassis is going to be a pain in the arse to do solo so may see if I can get it done professional ly! Then it's engine time as best to get the power plant on the chassis before putting the body on correct?
@@BarnesysBuilds no need to epoxy prime over filler work just a high build 2pot primer before final rub before paint motor can go in at any point really as front can be reassembled around motor ive just done one and use a trusty holden efi 304 out of a vs commy was good up grade from 308 and ezy conversion ..OH yea as beginner doing bog "filler work i would recommend using "guide coat" . its a fine black powder that you smear over your filler and panel so as you block it with sanding block highs and lows show up this is good for beginner as you hand wont be as skilled as mine for feeling for ripples and lows as you block excess filler away hope this helps regards Justin Kelly
G'day mate, the door repair looks the goods with very little, if any distortion. Glad you haven't been affected by the fires. Hope you are getting some rain, it's been raining solid for 6 hours now in Brisbane. Fingers crossed that our farmers and fire affected areas are getting it too. Cheers.
Thanks Ray, how's your build going? So far so good, I had joined the CFA down here in preparation for anything but still yet to finish training. Hopefully it stays away. We got 40mm the other day, filled the tanks up a bit. I think the fires copped a bit as well which is great. 6 hour fall is a good drop, much needed up there no doubt.
@@BarnesysBuilds i just measured it now, we got 85mm last night and another 18mm for the previous two days, so 93mm since Thursday. I have been mainly working on the shed, getting benches and shelves built and moving all my gear from the carport into the new shelves. I did get distracted and have a go at straightening the tailgate and painting it. Added a couple of GTS stripes just to have a go at striping. It came up really good. Would be even better if I blocked out the little bit of orange peel and polished it, but it's not going back on the Ute, so it is now hanging on the wall of the shed. I don't seem to be able to send photos on this thread but I put it up on the HQ-WB tonners and utes Facebook page. Is that the one you are a member of? I've commented on a thread of yours on one of those pages.
@@RayPlant77 Ok great, yeah it's hard to focus when you have other projects that are more important than the Ute. Yeah ok I am a member of that forum so I will check it out. Cheers
Glad to see its coming along, my hz tonner after ages of waiting is getting along just 1 more easy rust repair and shes off to sandblasters then home for primer and body filler nor mechanical work to be done its all brand new so hopefully she will be done for my leavers at end of year
@@BarnesysBuilds i was thinking something thatll stand out my uncle thats painting mine painted his wb a mettalic silver that looked good but didnt stand out enough for my liking, teenage boy with a v8 has to stand out hahs
@@tommymac7700 yeah fair enough, gun metals and silvers are try and tested but if you want loud look at DNA paints candy colours, they have some sick colours
Hey Barnsey. You can buy the window regulator wheels from rare spare. Grind the old ones off from the back and punch them out. Put new ones on and either spot weld them in carefully (so not to melt the plastic rollers) or press them over in a vice or squash with a punch.
Good on you Barnesy, doing a good job and learning lots I dare say. It’s probably a bit late now but check out Fitzee’s Fabrications, he is really good on butt welding panel repairs and lots more body stuff. I saw in your pan around that you had repaired the bonnet pull tab which breaks off if the cable and catch is not real free. I hadn’t thought of that. Save an otherwise good alloy thingo that way. Jeff.
Thanks Jeff, you can always learn more i reckon but for now the hard welding is over. I will be doing some more repairs on the radiator brace and i think that is it.
Done a cracking job on that door mate. As a sheety by trade I know how crap it is to get flush. Iv only found your channel the other day and binge watched the build from the start and to see how far you have come is amazing. You're doing a bloody good job mate. Keep the videos coming.👍🏼
Good video's mate, the ute is looking schmick. You said in the vid that you have saved 10 utes, in my case you've saved a Datto 1600. Keep up the good work!!! Subscribed!!
Unsure if you are aware mate but there is a lot of black screen and time remaining after you sign off your video. It has been great to watch your project journey thus far. I hope you are safe down that way as well.
Thanks Micheal, yes I noticed the black after the upload so I did edit it out but it takes a while to populate the new edit. thanks for watching! Yes where I live we have avoided fires so far, but we are in a very prone area so fingers crossed!
You’re getting better Barnesy! Great finish on the doors. I just test fitted my windscreen last night for the umpteenth time and and right to weld my cowl in. It was repaired Holden one from donor so took some to perfect the repaired corners, phew. I’m thinking about paint now too...seems the reason for doing jams and fitting for final coat is so paint comes from one batch and air pressure identical etc. to match colour perfect. I don’t know how to fit the doors without knocking off all the fresh paint on the hinge bolts? Anyone??
Thanks mate, yeah I guess with inside door jams etc I am not overly fussed if it's not 100% identical, however with a dark metallic grey or so I reckon you would be hard pressed to tell the difference anyway. Getting the door jams on without chipping the front guards corner would be almost impossible I reckon.
Cover anything close with layers of tape when assembling. Hope you have a helper? You can get a door hanging stand but how much gear can a guy justify buying!
nice job on the door turned out great its expensive restoring cars i've spent close to $8000 on chroming if i added up all the labour on my car over the last 45 years it would probably be over 80,000 not including parts etc but i'm not doing mine to sell so cost doesn't matter to me
Nice one! Yeah that's cool, if your not selling them for a return then it doesn't matter at all, it's all about the process of restoration that's the reward.
Generally when you do a resto like this. It’s good to do your full work. High fill. Block down make sure it’s all galled up right. Then prime again and one last block before you sand for paint. Also you’re probably better off doing the initial work on the rotisserie just so it’s easier to work on
Barnesy's Builds yea sure, generally we will do the method I said in the first comment, the primer hardens a lot and makes it harder to block for sure. But when allowing it to harden over let’s say a month. Will allow any shrinking from sandpaper to come through and not ruin the paint. No matter how good your filler work can be there’s a good chance you can miss a few deep scratches like 120 grit marks etc
Its looking great Barnesy, i really love the advice that Justin K and others have given you here, feels like its everyone's build! your nearly there mate
Yeah it's pretty cool isn't it, there's a real brother hood with these cars. When I finish I would like to get a cruise going to meet everyone at a big event. Thing is most people are from all over the place, still would be great to see everyone's builds in one spot!
Nice work. Tricky things door repairs. Re: those plastic wheels on the window lifts - are there any local businesses that could 3D print replacement wheels? Bit of a pain in the wallet having to buy entire winder unit just to get plastic guide wheels.
I didn't think of that, the trouble is they look like an incased unit that is moulded on the metal. Someone did mention you could use a house door slider wheel instead an retrofit. Might be just easier to pay the $50!
@@BarnesysBuilds I suppose the other method would be to machine up some nylon rod on a lathe. The pins that the wheels are mounted to are probably peened to retain them. A lot of work though. That 50 bucks a unit starts to look reasonable now 😆
@@TK42138 yes they are crimped over on the other side and it's thick metal so there's no way I could get them out without ruining them in the process. I think the $50 the way to go.
Hi Have you bought the new rubbers yet for doors etc ?If you haven't prepare your self for a shock !.A mate of mine restored a LJ Torana $950 they cost that was 20 years ago ?.When the car was built it only cost $ 1100 new ?.
hi , You might he surprised There is a mob in Penrith NSW , that sells them , I wanted some for a land rover discovery I am doing up and they were ridicules !.I recon you will be up for around $4to500 for them there is a place at Silverwater that does new pressed mats , carpet etc ,
HiThey Would probably have them ?Some of there stuff is expensive !, A rear quarter panel for a vr 1994 commodore is $595 a rear quarter panel for an xw xy ford is $1950 !.You could get one made at a place in Blacktown for less than half that price .Here is a question for you .Why did you spray the floor black ?.All mass produced cars floors are the same under coat , And paint as the body ?.I would have done the floor last !, Also when I did the xa ford I used water tank paint as an under coat !, When I did the xr ford I used red lead , The same stuff that Paul Hogan was painting the harbour bridge with !.Pity you can not buy that any more !.Before you go too far with it ?, Have a look under the dash where the a pillar meets the fire wall , As the older cars leak there !, Take the grill out of the Blhenime chamber if it comes out?, And get one of those mirrors on sticks and have a good look around !.If you have a leak or rust in there you are wasting your time putting new carpets ETC in it !.
@@kevinduffy6712 cheers for the info, I guess I painted the floor black as I really am doing what I think is best and not following past procedures. As long as it's rust proofed I don't care what colour it is, and right now that WB Ute is more rust proofed than it's ever been
Those bearing look the same as house sliding door wheels, Bunnings have heaps of them in various sizes as replacement parts for old house sliding doors. Ony different is that they use a bolt rather than pressed in. Might be an option?
Love watching your videos, I actually bought a WB to try all the tricks you have shown and lov'n it. I am now cutting out rust, replacing panels and I don't mind saying, it's coming up pretty dang good.
What color are you going to paint her?.Definately paint inners after she's straight and sealer primed, rubbed down and then final fitment. Better than chipping something when you think your nearly finished.
At this stage colour isn't locked in but most likely a black silver pearl or gun metal grey with a bronze tone through it. Really not sure. So paint inners when they are on the chassis?
Love the series Barnsey, my HZ is sitting in my shed in pieces but your channel is very inspiring. Just need to find the time to tackle some of these rust repairs. I have a front door which has been botch repaired at the bottom section and I was planning to ditch it, think I might purchase the rare spares section and try to salvage it. Cheers mate
Love the HZ, if you don't get around to doing it I would like one for the next project! Good doors are hard to come by so I reckon your better off repairing it. Good luck!
Rare Spares sell the window regulator repair kit - it's what you need to replace those bearings: www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/buy/wrk1008/window-regulator-roller-slide-repair-kit-hq
@@BarnesysBuilds where do you ge the burnishing machines from? Great videos mate, your can do attitude is inspiring. Ive got a HZ ute in pieces and are struggling to get started. A bit of self doubt to overcome....but I will get there. Keep doing what your doing, awesome.
I'm sure it would be possible with a professional fabricator, the curve is what makes it do hard. It's a strange curve as well on these doors, very shallow to flat so it's very very hard to align. It's worth having a go if you can, save you some money!
Awesome work mate. Great job on the door. I have to do the same repair to one of mine. If it turns out half as good as your repair I will be happy. Love your videos mate. Always looking forward to your next one. Well done mate
I'm late to this party, great to see a local guy having a crack at a resto. I know this is a bit late for you now but I recently saw this guy explaining his technique for doing quarters on a Dodge Charger and getting the right welding gap. I haven't tried it but maybe useful if you find there's some more patching to do? ua-cam.com/video/Ln9P9MhRHME/v-deo.html
Cheers mate! That's not a bad technique, I have done all the big repairs now however still good to know for future repairs. Although most of the time it's easier for the quarters to unpick all the spot welds and replace the entire panel so you have no butt welding to do which can warp the panel. Cheers
I'm doing the front doors on my HQ, both similar to your first door. Fab'd all the parts for the first door myself... never again! Doing the second with rare spares panels, so this vid was very helpful. Cheers and keep up the good work.
Thanks Craig, fabricating those yourself is a massive job. The full panels from the mob in Queensland are the best option, but they are $300 each so not cost effective. The small panel is good enough to get it done. Cheers
Always good to see another vehicle being brought back from the dead, keep up the good work ... we call these type of jobs ''time sponges '' - you can spend 16 hours in one area and still feel like you've just started.
Most of these old tanks have had some pretty short term and low cost attempts to remedy corrosion applied to them, its just a time and era dynamic - but its still sickens me to discovery poor previous repairs - KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Thanks mate, yes I have definitely experienced a few time sponges along the way on this build!
Great job
Thanks
Panelbeater spraypainter for 52 years now.I can say to you very well done,you need a lot of patience in the body trade and you have it mate.I make a whole skin for these and its not easy,because you cant buy them.Keep up your good work and stay safe,all the very best to you....
Thanks Jeff, that is great to hear from such a seasoned professional! It certainly does require patience! I do enjoy working with metal as well, it's a very interesting material with many ways of manipulation that's for sure! Cheers
Try running the drum sander long ways with the weld 👍
kia ora banrnsy
just to some idea's on leaving it on the rotissory ..... i would defiantly do the main part of the filler work with it on rottis !! and while your hard at work doing the filler work i would send the chassis to the sand blasters with any other bits eg inner guards sway bars and other suspension bits.. And then have them all powder coated satin black this is cheaper than buying paint and your labour not to mention how much time and energy you'll save!!
after you shape the body high build it with a high soild 2k primer filler primer .. then you need to get the doors court up so you can fill and block the doors and guards so they look like there cut from the same cloth so to speak after all this is done i would put back on chassis as to do final blocking and spot filling at a ture stand point and you will probably find you will find highs & low you missed i probly get a professional to look over it with trained eyes before top coating
Hope this helps it works for me and keep it up mate 2yrs is not to bad at all some guys never finish ..keep it up
Hey Justin, yeah cheers mate, I reckon that is right on the money and the way I was thinking of going. That has confirmed it now, after you have hi filled and done final blocking should you run over again with epoxy to seal it or don't worry? The chassis is going to be a pain in the arse to do solo so may see if I can get it done professional ly! Then it's engine time as best to get the power plant on the chassis before putting the body on correct?
@@BarnesysBuilds no need to epoxy prime over filler work just a high build 2pot primer before final rub before paint motor can go in at any point really as front can be reassembled around motor ive just done one and use a trusty holden efi 304 out of a vs commy was good up grade from 308 and ezy conversion ..OH yea as beginner doing bog "filler work i would recommend using "guide coat" . its a fine black powder that you smear over your filler and panel so as you block it with sanding block highs and lows show up this is good for beginner as you hand wont be as skilled as mine for feeling for ripples and lows as you block excess filler away hope this helps
regards
Justin Kelly
@@justink1120 ok great advice mate, appreciate it and will follow suit with the recommendations. Cheers mate
G'day mate, the door repair looks the goods with very little, if any distortion. Glad you haven't been affected by the fires. Hope you are getting some rain, it's been raining solid for 6 hours now in Brisbane. Fingers crossed that our farmers and fire affected areas are getting it too. Cheers.
Thanks Ray, how's your build going? So far so good, I had joined the CFA down here in preparation for anything but still yet to finish training. Hopefully it stays away. We got 40mm the other day, filled the tanks up a bit. I think the fires copped a bit as well which is great. 6 hour fall is a good drop, much needed up there no doubt.
@@BarnesysBuilds i just measured it now, we got 85mm last night and another 18mm for the previous two days, so 93mm since Thursday.
I have been mainly working on the shed, getting benches and shelves built and moving all my gear from the carport into the new shelves. I did get distracted and have a go at straightening the tailgate and painting it. Added a couple of GTS stripes just to have a go at striping. It came up really good. Would be even better if I blocked out the little bit of orange peel and polished it, but it's not going back on the Ute, so it is now hanging on the wall of the shed. I don't seem to be able to send photos on this thread but I put it up on the HQ-WB tonners and utes Facebook page. Is that the one you are a member of? I've commented on a thread of yours on one of those pages.
@@RayPlant77 Ok great, yeah it's hard to focus when you have other projects that are more important than the Ute. Yeah ok I am a member of that forum so I will check it out. Cheers
Glad to see its coming along, my hz tonner after ages of waiting is getting along just 1 more easy rust repair and shes off to sandblasters then home for primer and body filler nor mechanical work to be done its all brand new so hopefully she will be done for my leavers at end of year
Sounds good, would like to see all these other Utes one day, might have to organize a cruise once mines finished and get them all out!
@@BarnesysBuilds yeh will have to, and another thing i cant decide on a colour what do u think would be good
@@tommymac7700 I'm thinking a black silver metalic pearl or a dark gunmetal with a hint of bronze through it for mine. It's very hard.
@@BarnesysBuilds i was thinking something thatll stand out my uncle thats painting mine painted his wb a mettalic silver that looked good but didnt stand out enough for my liking, teenage boy with a v8 has to stand out hahs
@@tommymac7700 yeah fair enough, gun metals and silvers are try and tested but if you want loud look at DNA paints candy colours, they have some sick colours
Hey Barnsey. You can buy the window regulator wheels from rare spare. Grind the old ones off from the back and punch them out. Put new ones on and either spot weld them in carefully (so not to melt the plastic rollers) or press them over in a vice or squash with a punch.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F28030169240
Yeah great I will have a look at them, thanks for shooting it through!
Good on you Barnesy, doing a good job and learning lots I dare say. It’s probably a bit late now but check out Fitzee’s Fabrications, he is really good on butt welding panel repairs and lots more body stuff. I saw in your pan around that you had repaired the bonnet pull tab which breaks off if the cable and catch is not real free. I hadn’t thought of that. Save an otherwise good alloy thingo that way. Jeff.
Thanks Jeff, you can always learn more i reckon but for now the hard welding is over. I will be doing some more repairs on the radiator brace and i think that is it.
I am so impressed with your efforts. Inspiring actually
Thanks mate!
Done a cracking job on that door mate. As a sheety by trade I know how crap it is to get flush. Iv only found your channel the other day and binge watched the build from the start and to see how far you have come is amazing. You're doing a bloody good job mate. Keep the videos coming.👍🏼
Thanks mate, coming from a professional sheet worker that is a great compliment. Appreciate the feedback and will keep it coming!
Good video's mate, the ute is looking schmick. You said in the vid that you have saved 10 utes, in my case you've saved a Datto 1600. Keep up the good work!!! Subscribed!!
Cheers mate, I would love to do up at Datsun 1200 ute next!
Unsure if you are aware mate but there is a lot of black screen and time remaining after you sign off your video.
It has been great to watch your project journey thus far.
I hope you are safe down that way as well.
Thanks Micheal, yes I noticed the black after the upload so I did edit it out but it takes a while to populate the new edit. thanks for watching! Yes where I live we have avoided fires so far, but we are in a very prone area so fingers crossed!
Good work mate good video I’m just glad my doors aren’t rusted out but you have made me wanna rust treat them before they do 👍
Yeah maybe have a look down the bottom as it can sit in behind the folds. You could just wire wheel, rust treat and nuke with kbs to seal it in
Barnesy's Builds what’s this kbs you talk about sorry I haven’t seen every video
Akob. F. Gdng. Rbgm
Add. Jfujkdk
Okndagkww
You’re getting better Barnesy! Great finish on the doors. I just test fitted my windscreen last night for the umpteenth time and and right to weld my cowl in. It was repaired Holden one from donor so took some to perfect the repaired corners, phew. I’m thinking about paint now too...seems the reason for doing jams and fitting for final coat is so paint comes from one batch and air pressure identical etc. to match colour perfect. I don’t know how to fit the doors without knocking off all the fresh paint on the hinge bolts? Anyone??
Thanks mate, yeah I guess with inside door jams etc I am not overly fussed if it's not 100% identical, however with a dark metallic grey or so I reckon you would be hard pressed to tell the difference anyway. Getting the door jams on without chipping the front guards corner would be almost impossible I reckon.
Cover anything close with layers of tape when assembling. Hope you have a helper? You can get a door hanging stand but how much gear can a guy justify buying!
@@poydapoyderson646 yeah it's going to be hard, I might get a helping hand for that one when the time comes!
A labour of love
nice job on the door turned out great
its expensive restoring cars i've spent close to $8000 on chroming
if i added up all the labour on my car over the last 45 years it would probably be over 80,000 not including parts etc
but i'm not doing mine to sell so cost doesn't matter to me
Nice one! Yeah that's cool, if your not selling them for a return then it doesn't matter at all, it's all about the process of restoration that's the reward.
Generally when you do a resto like this. It’s good to do your full work. High fill. Block down make sure it’s all galled up right. Then prime again and one last block before you sand for paint. Also you’re probably better off doing the initial work on the rotisserie just so it’s easier to work on
Yeah ok thanks, can you leave high fill primer for a while after applying?
Barnesy's Builds yea sure, generally we will do the method I said in the first comment, the primer hardens a lot and makes it harder to block for sure. But when allowing it to harden over let’s say a month. Will allow any shrinking from sandpaper to come through and not ruin the paint. No matter how good your filler work can be there’s a good chance you can miss a few deep scratches like 120 grit marks etc
@@Dylmark ok thanks for the info, will factor that all in. Cheers
Its looking great Barnesy, i really love the advice that Justin K and others have given you here, feels like its everyone's build!
your nearly there mate
Yeah it's pretty cool isn't it, there's a real brother hood with these cars. When I finish I would like to get a cruise going to meet everyone at a big event. Thing is most people are from all over the place, still would be great to see everyone's builds in one spot!
Nice work. Tricky things door repairs.
Re: those plastic wheels on the window lifts - are there any local businesses that could 3D print replacement wheels? Bit of a pain in the wallet having to buy entire winder unit just to get plastic guide wheels.
I didn't think of that, the trouble is they look like an incased unit that is moulded on the metal. Someone did mention you could use a house door slider wheel instead an retrofit. Might be just easier to pay the $50!
@@BarnesysBuilds I suppose the other method would be to machine up some nylon rod on a lathe. The pins that the wheels are mounted to are probably peened to retain them. A lot of work though. That 50 bucks a unit starts to look reasonable now 😆
@@TK42138 yes they are crimped over on the other side and it's thick metal so there's no way I could get them out without ruining them in the process. I think the $50 the way to go.
Hi Have you bought the new rubbers yet for doors etc ?If you haven't prepare your self for a shock !.A mate of mine restored a LJ Torana $950 they cost that was 20 years ago ?.When the car was built it only cost $ 1100 new ?.
I heard they were highway robbery, surely with a Ute they wouldn't be that much!
hi , You might he surprised There is a mob in Penrith NSW , that sells them , I wanted some for a land rover discovery I am doing up and they were ridicules !.I recon you will be up for around $4to500 for them there is a place at Silverwater that does new pressed mats , carpet etc ,
@@kevinduffy6712 yeah ok, what about rare spares?
HiThey Would probably have them ?Some of there stuff is expensive !, A rear quarter panel for a vr 1994 commodore is $595 a rear quarter panel for an xw xy ford is $1950 !.You could get one made at a place in Blacktown for less than half that price .Here is a question for you .Why did you spray the floor black ?.All mass produced cars floors are the same under coat , And paint as the body ?.I would have done the floor last !, Also when I did the xa ford I used water tank paint as an under coat !, When I did the xr ford I used red lead , The same stuff that Paul Hogan was painting the harbour bridge with !.Pity you can not buy that any more !.Before you go too far with it ?, Have a look under the dash where the a pillar meets the fire wall , As the older cars leak there !, Take the grill out of the Blhenime chamber if it comes out?, And get one of those mirrors on sticks and have a good look around !.If you have a leak or rust in there you are wasting your time putting new carpets ETC in it !.
@@kevinduffy6712 cheers for the info, I guess I painted the floor black as I really am doing what I think is best and not following past procedures. As long as it's rust proofed I don't care what colour it is, and right now that WB Ute is more rust proofed than it's ever been
Those bearing look the same as house sliding door wheels, Bunnings have heaps of them in various sizes as replacement parts for old house sliding doors. Ony different is that they use a bolt rather than pressed in. Might be an option?
Yeah that's a great idea, the only thing was getting the old pressed one out if the hole. I might look into it. Thanks
Love watching your videos, I actually bought a WB to try all the tricks you have shown and lov'n it. I am now cutting out rust, replacing panels and I don't mind saying, it's coming up pretty dang good.
That's great work mate, there's really not much to it once you get going, just time really. Well done and good luck with the resto!
What color are you going to paint her?.Definately paint inners after she's straight and sealer primed, rubbed down and then final fitment. Better than chipping something when you think your nearly finished.
At this stage colour isn't locked in but most likely a black silver pearl or gun metal grey with a bronze tone through it. Really not sure. So paint inners when they are on the chassis?
Nice work mate your coming along way mate
Thanks mate
@@BarnesysBuilds your welcome mate
Love the work mate can’t wait to see it with colour on it! Well done mate👌👌
Thanks mate👍
Love the series Barnsey, my HZ is sitting in my shed in pieces but your channel is very inspiring. Just need to find the time to tackle some of these rust repairs. I have a front door which has been botch repaired at the bottom section and I was planning to ditch it, think I might purchase the rare spares section and try to salvage it. Cheers mate
Love the HZ, if you don't get around to doing it I would like one for the next project! Good doors are hard to come by so I reckon your better off repairing it. Good luck!
Beautiful build mate
Thanks mate!
If you paint the chassis then put the body on and high fill and paint the body you tape has to be 100%. Just something to take into consideration
Thanks for the feedback, can you elaborate on the tape at all? You mean taping off the chassis?
Yeah the whole underside of the car to get no over spray will be a mission
Rare Spares sell the window regulator repair kit - it's what you need to replace those bearings:
www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/buy/wrk1008/window-regulator-roller-slide-repair-kit-hq
Very good patch on that door, I’m there next, with a shocker of a rf, gotta get one of those rotar sanders
Yeah the doors are hard to fix but worth a go! Burnishing drum machines make a huge difference in metal finishing.
@@BarnesysBuilds where do you ge the burnishing machines from?
Great videos mate, your can do attitude is inspiring. Ive got a HZ ute in pieces and are struggling to get started. A bit of self doubt to overcome....but I will get there.
Keep doing what your doing, awesome.
Did you put sound deadener on the in side of the doors while you had them off ?
Not yet, I'm going to stick dynamat inside the doors once it's painted and I am starting re assembly.
Ok there are drain holes in the bottom of the doors make sure they arnt blocked before you put the panels on them
@@kevinduffy6712 yeah I've gone through both the doors in detail in the videos and made new drain holes.
That's good you are doing a good job on it !.us it a v8 or 202.I like the colour
@@kevinduffy6712 it's a V8, 308
you can get the wheels from rares , resto counry etc, www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/buy/wrk2021/window-regulator-roller-xa-xb-xc-zf-zg-zh
and here is a vid how to replace them ua-cam.com/video/xF1rok1yN9s/v-deo.html
Thnaks mate!
Nice work on the door mate
Thanks mate.!
Is it even possible to weld the door panel without finishing it with filler? your doing a great job :) maybe I should be doing a bit to my own lol
I'm sure it would be possible with a professional fabricator, the curve is what makes it do hard. It's a strange curve as well on these doors, very shallow to flat so it's very very hard to align. It's worth having a go if you can, save you some money!
Well done
Cheers!
Awesome work mate. Great job on the door. I have to do the same repair to one of mine. If it turns out half as good as your repair I will be happy. Love your videos mate. Always looking forward to your next one. Well done mate
Cheers mate, next episode out soon!
Made me wanna work on both my cars
I'm late to this party, great to see a local guy having a crack at a resto. I know this is a bit late for you now but I recently saw this guy explaining his technique for doing quarters on a Dodge Charger and getting the right welding gap. I haven't tried it but maybe useful if you find there's some more patching to do?
ua-cam.com/video/Ln9P9MhRHME/v-deo.html
Cheers mate! That's not a bad technique, I have done all the big repairs now however still good to know for future repairs. Although most of the time it's easier for the quarters to unpick all the spot welds and replace the entire panel so you have no butt welding to do which can warp the panel. Cheers
I'm doing the front doors on my HQ, both similar to your first door. Fab'd all the parts for the first door myself... never again! Doing the second with rare spares panels, so this vid was very helpful. Cheers and keep up the good work.
Thanks Craig, fabricating those yourself is a massive job. The full panels from the mob in Queensland are the best option, but they are $300 each so not cost effective. The small panel is good enough to get it done. Cheers