Congratulations on your success. I am a lifetime DIY'er and I've mixed many bags of concrete. My observation is that as soon as you are past about 15-20 bags, hauling, mixing, etc. You might as well have the mix truck deliver to the job site. It's not as expensive as you would think, they can customize the mix to suit the project and they are just a phone call away. Best regards
There are a few videos on YT doing a comparison of bag vs truck. I think it varies greatly region or state on prices. For me in northwest central Ohio. They also charge a delivery fee and if you have less than a truckload they charge $100 per yard that you are short on a full truck. I did the math and can save about $30-40 per yard by using bags. I am going to do a 24x40 pole barn slab. It's not so much the savings per yard for me but by me doing it myself I will save about $4k. I know my time is not free but it's being put to good use.
I poured two pallets of Sakrete last fall on a project. I found the regular Sakrete to be lacking enough Portland and added a quart of Type S mortar mix to each bag full. Turned out really well. Lowes around here quit carrying Quikrete and the Sakrete was available. The project was near a breakover point for cost for just calling for readymix trucks for two separate small pours. Not cost effective. I worked it out for four separate pours, three sidewalk sections with curves and the back door stoop pour, that I topped with 6 inch tiles. I'm a cheapskate that doesn't mind handmixing over a hundred bags, in a wheel barrow, I'm over 70. Heavy work makes you feel good. The extra Type S worked out to be eight 80 pound sacks and when I look at the pour today, I'm glad I did it the way I did. This video proves that you can do your project, too.
Another tip. put the mixer right in the forms. Dump and move as you go. Ending up out of the forms and dumping the last load or two into the form where you lifted the mixer out. NO wheel barrow!!!
My only observation is that it's a really bad idea to leave that form board between the slabs. It won't take long at all to rot out and then you'll have a huge gap between the slabs. Much better to take an extra day, pull the form board, and lay the second slab on the next day.
Those that have gone before me on my homestead have poured concrete slabs in the out buyildings and did not put plastic down over the rocks and before the concrete. Every time the enviroment gets wet, the moisture wicks up through the concrete resulting in a wet floor. It makes it hard to store anything that rusts or is delicate. Most things are stored on pallets.
@@SimonSaysDIY As a side note, I poured a 30 x 50 foot slab for a shed using plastic as already noted and have not had any problems with a wet slab; however, I forgot to do it on one of the aprons (ramps) and it gets wet. I am a Texan living in hot, humid central Mississiuppi with my Southern Belle.
My father made a concrete filled lawn roller out of 16" pipe and had me make hand prints in the open end and then dated it! That was in 1966 and I was three years old, and I still have it and use it every year! I love the IH Low Boy ! Good video, and have fun!
Tip - Suggestion, instead of many bags, have a half yard of clean Sand and half yard of concrete sand and half yard of crushed stone. Keep in 3 separate piles. You could have bought 30 bags of PORTLAND Cement as well. Make your concrete mix 3:1 -- 3 shovels of each aggregate to 1.5 shovels of Portland Cement. IE, 1 sand, 1 concrete sand 1 crushed stone to 1.5 Portland Cement. Mix to the consistency of brownie batter, not runny pancake batter. A stiff mix will be much stronger and durable. If you have difficulty in smoothing over concrete that is stiffer, you can gently spray water in a fine mist over your screeded concrete. THEN finish with a concrete hand wooden float and a concrete smoother rectangular rowel. 24 hours later, take a fine mist and wet down the entire slab of concrete 2 x daily. 48 hours later, take the same fine mist and wet down the entire slab of concrete 2 x. 72 hours later, water it twice daily once again. Let the concrete sit for 1 week before using it. It needs to cure and to dry hard as steel. 1 week later, spray with a fine mist once again. Most concrete contractors don't do this and are impatient. Haste makes waste and so does slack portland cement mix sitting in a bag.
Duuuude!!! Congrats. Very satisfying when you were done huh. I am a concrete guy and I give you props for taking that on. The hardest part of that job is lifting all those bags.
It’s nice seeing the channel grow. You should do a live stream now that you have over a thousand subs. You can send alerts out like a half hour beforehand and let people that are working on projects ask your help from your vast wealth of knowledge on so many things. Man, you are so well rounded and grounded. How deep without cracking from freezing? I remember a friends Dad fixed heavy equipment and had a 7 foot slab. That’s taller than me. Sorry I write so much brother Simon. It gives me hope when I see your family and the way you give back, and God bless you.
For my patio, I made 2ft x 4ft pads separated by concrete pavers. I typical formed and poured 8 at a time, 4 to 5 80lb sacks per. It made it manageable plus looks nice with the pavers.
I have done this before. It is a lot of work for one person. But I was in my twenties then. Had a sore back for a few days. But worth the effort. Nice job Sir!
Yes, especially if the concrete is load baring. The metal with strengthen the concrete a bit but will hold the concrete together if it does crack. This concrete will not have any weight on is so I chose to skip the Metal as it will likely never have the weight on it to crack. My driveway for example has metal in it. Thanks!
Replaced a section of walkway for a new client several years ago. Told her to avoid walking on it for 2 days. When I returned to mist it the next day there were four, half inch deep lines in the concrete. They said they were careful not to walk on it when they moved the upright grand piano across it from the moving truck. They asked if I made the concrete too soft.
I want to start by giving you a big 👍 for taking on the job by yourself. And I hope the patio gives your family decades of use and memories.😎.......Ok, the rest of my comment isn't me trying to tell you how to do that job. I'm not a concrete worker.😁 But, back in the '70s-'80s my dad and I poured several sidewalks, pads for various things, and ect. around the farm. Now, Dad was a construction contractor, so he had access to actual metal forms to use, instead of the wood. But I digress... What I wanted to say, is that I have never heard of anyone using gravel under concrete. I was always told/taught (maybe incorrectly?) to use a base of leveled and packed sand. And of course, rebar or "wire" cattle/hog panels for strength. But after reading the comments, before I commented, I seen that topic was discussed several times. And I understand your reasoning.😎
I do do concrete for a living, It varies depending on your location. Up north(I'm in pa) you want to use clean stone to provide drainage under the concrete. Helps with the freeze/thaw of the concrete. Slab tur Ed out nice good job.
Would it be possible to do something this size without using a mixer, as the concreate and sand are already mixed. Can you not empty the bags inside the forms and and then add the water from a hose?
I'm going to pour them right on the ground. And maybe even use something to make it boxy. And even use a rock smoother stick for the top. One question though, do I add the water after I poured it all out or before I open the bag.? Or is this the kind you can just let it get rained on like I did the driveway. You remember how that turned out.? I hope so,... because I don't. So what were we talking about again.... oh yeah.. fishing🎣 so there I was you see...............I...i just cast out.... that's when I thought about the rock smoother. You know the other day I found out to before only get that way if you put two of them together.
Could you pour without the gravel? About how many bags of gravel did you have to work with? Could you use one of the manual metal compactors or none at all? If you were doing on a slight grade could you just use those black tubes they use for gutters to direct water away?
If you put plastic down, (Vapor barrier) on top of the gravel your concrete will dry slower and harder . Also add dish soap to concrete mix it will slow the cure, buy you more time.
Vapor barriers quite often lead to slab edge curling. Back in the 80's we learned that if using a vapor barrier (retarder) you need a sand layer on top of the VB to prevent said curling. The initial water/cement ratio will control the ultimate strength, not 'drying time'. This concrete was mixed with an 11" slump and I am guessing an 80% water/cement ratio I would be surprised if it lasts a couple of hard winters without powdering. If you want to slow the curing process, use an admixture to retard the set, not more water. If you want the mix to flow better, use a plasticizer. Too much water just reduces the strength. While you are suggesting dish soap why not pull out all the wives tales and suggest sugar? Neither does anything except contaminate the mix. Bet line I ever heard about concrete; "POURED concrete is POOR concrete."
@@SemicrazyMagatrucker First I will say that I will not indulge you in childish insults, if you want to play that game, go elsewhere. My background in concrete is fairly extensive; over 50 years of designing concrete structures as a registered professional engineer, mostly high rise but with several million square feet of slab on grade thrown in. My formal education is a Masters and a Doctorate in reinforced concrete theory. If it means anything to you, I assisted Wang and Salmon in two edits of their text on reinforced concrete. I have served on dozens of national engineering and building code development committees. Please, for the record, share your background. While the model building codes do require the use of a vapor retarder in conditioned spaces, the use is not required in unheated garages, patios or exterior slabs. There is of course the possibility that a local jurisdiction has amended this requirement but none of which I am aware have done so for a patio. I do not believe that I ever stated that you said anything about adding water to the mix - I was commenting on the amount of water added to get the 11" slump we saw in the video. I read very well thank you, And I also know that slowing the curing time of concrete will do nothing for its hardness, strength yes, hardness, no. Actually, when the water cement ratio gets up in the 70's you will find that the surface of the concrete becomes softer and will powder over time.Almost the same result as allowing the surface to freeze after the initial heat of hydration has dissipated. Yes, plastic below a slab will retain water in the slab, the lower portion of the slab. The upper portion will gain its initial set before the lower portion thus shrinking more than the lower portion and creating slab edge curling. While you may not see it, you will feel it with your hand or foot. This is not my theory, it was studied and was well documented by the Portland Cement Association back in the 60's. To prevent the curling and promote an even release of the entrained water, the sand layer on top of the vapor retarder was used. It is still being used by designers and contractors who understand the problem. Ever noticed how the joint lines between slabs are often ground smooth prior to the placement of a hard finish material that can telegraph any flaw? Edge curling. Why on earth anyone would expect a quality concrete mix to be sold by a landscape supply who will not guarantee the plants they sell is beyond me. The very thought of letting a batch of concrete sit in a mixerless trailer for three hours with all the aggregate settling to the bottom is counter to all good concreting practices. Real concrete is coming out of the truck in an hour and completed at a rate of not more than 7 - 10 minutes per yard depending on the project specifications. That misting you see? It is to help prevent surface checking and edge curling. It does nothing to harden the concrete, strengthen possibly but by the time they are misting it they might as well be using a good cure/seal agent. But those cost more than water. Aside from the obvious spelling and context errors, your last sentence makes no sense; I never suggested not using a vapor retarder, just that it be used properly. And for what it's worth, April 1972 was the last time I smoked anything of a nature to which you refer.
@@SemicrazyMagatrucker Concrete is CAST. But you may have never heard that because you do not read books. Building codes, project specifications and technical writings all refer to CAST-IN-PLACE concrete; never poured. Just because you have done or thought the same thing improperly for 38 years does not make it correct. I can only assume that your experience is in residential construction where the matters I have raised are often neglected and ignored but in the real world they become serious issues. I certainly would not want a guy who 'pours' footings for a house to become my lead foreman on a a high-rise where we are pumping a 10,000 pound mix 500 feet up to a two-way reinforced slab.
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
So it depends on the amount you need: 1 cubic Yard of bagged Concrete it is $148 + tax. 1 Cubic yard in my area for a ready mix company to deliver it is $145 per yard and an additional charge for loads under 4 yards which is $175. That is $320 + tax for one yard. My slab took almost 1.75 yards so i saved at least $175 using bags. So it is cheaper and easier if you need 4 yards or more to order a delivery. anything under 4 yards it will be much cheaper to use bags. Hope that helps! I am planning on explaining that in my next concrete video. Thanks!
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
Id recommend using a fiber matt between the soil and the gravel, if you're working with soft soil. that way the gravel wont sink and mix with the soil. It looks really good tho :D impressive work 👍
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
@@SimonSaysDIY here in Oklahoma all the pads I've seen they put steel bar in it. I've also been told here they do it because we are next to fort sill. It's an artillery post.
concrete is good to walk on after a couple hours. you can remove the forms in about 4 hours. no need to wait 3 days like you said. Just poured a 9' x 12' pad myself and i didnt work nearly as hard as you did. Set the mixer inside the form and move it as you go. Wheelbarrow is just an unnecessary waist of time.
You should have included either reinforcing wire or rebar. You are most likely going to get a lot of cracks and shifting, depending on how long you are there. Oh, well tough luck for the next owner.
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
We have a cement mixer that is low to the ground -- like a wheelbarrow. We got one of those so that I (the wife) could mix cement by myself. I do not have to lift the bag so high. Easier to put the concrete mix in and easier to pour. I can pour straight into the form from the mixer. Sure beats mixing in a pan or in the wheelbarrow. I just do not have the strength, if mixing a lot of bags, to do them all by hand. I purchased my mixer through The Home Depot and it arrived within 3 days.
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
I always like to watch how people build around the world because we can get nice ideas to use in our own constructions. I am curious, don`t you guys use "mestras"(concrete rails that serve as a guide to make the slab really even)? The piece of wood left inside may rot and cause a hole in the slab in some time, unless, it is a special kind of wood for this purpose, right? Here in Brazil, we make "mestras" and they help a lot if you have a big place to cover, no concrete truck, and you will mix the concrete and do the work by yourself, therefore, not at once. We will post some videos showing how the two of us poured a nice concrete slab, mixing gravel, sand and cement by hand, using "mestras". Cool video! The slab got nice!
3 mistakes here... 1 you didnt wear a mask pouring the bags.,. that dust IS not healthy.. two.. you need to use a ground compactor for the dirt and rock layers. before you pour. 3rd you put way too much water in that mix
@@jaandel1 well moisture barrier isnt needed.. that wasnt done decades ago. I have slabs 40-50 years old at my farm with no plastic under them. Just poured right over gravel on a clay surface. None have cracks or splits. Minus one that sagged due to erosion under itself
@@SimonSaysDIY Yes, and it would prevent the slab from absorbing moisture from the ground after it cures. Put it on the bottom only (not up the sides) so it doesn't make a bowl to hold water. For maximum strenght concrete should be kept moist during the first few days of the curing process (3 days to 85% cure, 28 days to 98%)
Yes, especially if the concrete is load baring. The metal with strengthen the concrete a bit but will hold the concrete together if it does crack. This concrete will not have any weight on is so I chose to skip the Metal as it will likely never have the weight on it to crack. My driveway for example has metal in it. Thanks!
It is a fallacy that concrete needs to “Dry Out” and that being dry cures the concrete_ There is a chemical reaction taking place, not drying.. So.. 1. don’t add water after you mix it to the correct consistency (He doesn’t do this here) 2. Concrete heats up as the chemical reaction takes place.. if it goes over 90 degrees F. It is too late and it will not be strong when it cures (commercial ready mix uses the 90/90 qualifier… 90 minutes since mixed or 90 degrees temp.. it will be crap.) 3. Always have help.. it is heavy stuff and it takes effort to work it into the forms properly… And it will be junk if you hurt yourself and aren’t able to continue. 4. Concrete/ Cement is CAUSTIC.. Wear gloves and a respirator for God’s sake! Lungs never recover from the inhalation damage and the dust in your eyes is no joke. Wet the slab down for at least 4 days after your pour.. just get the surface wet.. it will cure harder. I inspected concrete and cement in commercial construction for a few years.
Been cheaper and easier and quicker to had a concrete truck come dump leave and finish the thing without the 12 trips to the store all the mixing all the water and all the time. Just saying. Better concrete too. Good luck with the slab!!!!
Actually the bags are a bit cheaper where I live but it is well worth it to save the work and get a truck to deliver. The only problem is the concrete companies are so busy with large construction that they no longer deliver on Saturdays and they are booked up 3-4 month in advance. Not very practical so I did it my self. :)
concrete contractor here. Never pour a slab unless you use a transit mixer, it ain't worth it. only a monolithic slab never leave form wood in the slab. Get a pro finisher every time.
Mixing them individually alone you need it to be a bit wetter than normal to help it from drying our to fast. This doesn’t keep it from setting up so you still have to work fast but if it gets too dry it gets really hard to work even if it hasn’t set up yet. Thanks!
I might have positioned the mixer at the edge of the form and skipped the wheel barrow. Also some wire reinforcement, and cut a joint or two.
Congratulations on your success.
I am a lifetime DIY'er and I've mixed many bags of concrete. My observation is that as soon as you are past about 15-20 bags, hauling, mixing, etc. You might as well have the mix truck deliver to the job site. It's not as expensive as you would think, they can customize the mix to suit the project and they are just a phone call away. Best regards
There are a few videos on YT doing a comparison of bag vs truck. I think it varies greatly region or state on prices. For me in northwest central Ohio. They also charge a delivery fee and if you have less than a truckload they charge $100 per yard that you are short on a full truck. I did the math and can save about $30-40 per yard by using bags. I am going to do a 24x40 pole barn slab. It's not so much the savings per yard for me but by me doing it myself I will save about $4k. I know my time is not free but it's being put to good use.
It is a big difference
I poured two pallets of Sakrete last fall on a project. I found the regular Sakrete to be lacking enough Portland and added a quart of Type S mortar mix to each bag full. Turned out really well. Lowes around here quit carrying Quikrete and the Sakrete was available. The project was near a breakover point for cost for just calling for readymix trucks for two separate small pours. Not cost effective. I worked it out for four separate pours, three sidewalk sections with curves and the back door stoop pour, that I topped with 6 inch tiles. I'm a cheapskate that doesn't mind handmixing over a hundred bags, in a wheel barrow, I'm over 70. Heavy work makes you feel good. The extra Type S worked out to be eight 80 pound sacks and when I look at the pour today, I'm glad I did it the way I did. This video proves that you can do your project, too.
Another tip. put the mixer right in the forms. Dump and move as you go. Ending up out of the forms and dumping the last load or two into the form where you lifted the mixer out. NO wheel barrow!!!
Thanks for the tip!
My only observation is that it's a really bad idea to leave that form board between the slabs. It won't take long at all to rot out and then you'll have a huge gap between the slabs. Much better to take an extra day, pull the form board, and lay the second slab on the next day.
Thanks for the tip! I’ll have to try that next time!
The form board can act as an expansion joint to help keep concrete from buckling from temperature changes
They sell specific expansion joint for concrete at home depot that won't rot out like wood will
@@cancelchannel3394 not true
@@SimonSaysDIY if you do it again use a treated board in the middle. It'll last and looks good in some driveways.
Those that have gone before me on my homestead have poured concrete slabs in the out buyildings and did not put plastic down over the rocks and before the concrete. Every time the enviroment gets wet, the moisture wicks up through the concrete resulting in a wet floor. It makes it hard to store anything that rusts or is delicate. Most things are stored on pallets.
Thanks for the tip. Thankfully it’s pretty dry here and it’s just a patio but I will be sure to try this in the future! Thanks!
@@SimonSaysDIY As a side note, I poured a 30 x 50 foot slab for a shed using plastic as already noted and have not had any problems with a wet slab; however, I forgot to do it on one of the aprons (ramps) and it gets wet. I am a Texan living in hot, humid central Mississiuppi with my Southern Belle.
Some great tips. Love the "high speed" effect.
Thanks! 😄
lol I've actually built a small earth bag home in 2012 using a thousand bags and used tires, today I'm working on starting my second house.
That’s awesome! I would love to see that! :)
My father made a concrete filled lawn roller out of 16" pipe and had me make hand prints in the open end and then dated it! That was in 1966 and I was three years old, and I still have it and use it every year! I love the IH Low Boy ! Good video, and have fun!
That’s awesome! :) thanks so much!
Really well done fast forward. I appreciate that
Thanks so much!! :)
Tip - Suggestion, instead of many bags, have a half yard of clean Sand and half yard of concrete sand and half yard of crushed stone. Keep in 3 separate piles. You could have bought 30 bags of PORTLAND Cement as well. Make your concrete mix 3:1 -- 3 shovels of each aggregate to 1.5 shovels of Portland Cement. IE, 1 sand, 1 concrete sand 1 crushed stone to 1.5 Portland Cement. Mix to the consistency of brownie batter, not runny pancake batter. A stiff mix will be much stronger and durable. If you have difficulty in smoothing over concrete that is stiffer, you can gently spray water in a fine mist over your screeded concrete. THEN finish with a concrete hand wooden float and a concrete smoother rectangular rowel. 24 hours later, take a fine mist and wet down the entire slab of concrete 2 x daily. 48 hours later, take the same fine mist and wet down the entire slab of concrete 2 x. 72 hours later, water it twice daily once again. Let the concrete sit for 1 week before using it. It needs to cure and to dry hard as steel. 1 week later, spray with a fine mist once again.
Most concrete contractors don't do this and are impatient. Haste makes waste and so does slack portland cement mix sitting in a bag.
Duuuude!!! Congrats. Very satisfying when you were done huh. I am a concrete guy and I give you props for taking that on. The hardest part of that job is lifting all those bags.
Thanks so much!! I really appreciate it :)
You're damn right they are about 80 lbs a bag
It’s nice seeing the channel grow. You should do a live stream now that you have over a thousand subs. You can send alerts out like a half hour beforehand and let people that are working on projects ask your help from your vast wealth of knowledge on so many things. Man, you are so well rounded and grounded. How deep without cracking from freezing? I remember a friends Dad fixed heavy equipment and had a 7 foot slab. That’s taller than me. Sorry I write so much brother Simon. It gives me hope when I see your family and the way you give back, and God bless you.
Use asphalt paper to wrap post prior to pour. Splashed cement stains fiinished posts.
Thanks so much! That’s a great tip.
For my patio, I made 2ft x 4ft pads separated by concrete pavers. I typical formed and poured 8 at a time, 4 to 5 80lb sacks per. It made it manageable plus looks nice with the pavers.
It'd be cool to see a picture of your slabs with the pavers. That may work well for what I'm trying to do.
Sounds awesome! Very curious of how this turned out :)
@@SimonSaysDIY I like the way it turned out. I'll have to make a video and post the link.
Ive used old motor oil to coat the forms. They came off without sticking - also pulled after 24 hours.
Dude you did this by yourself. " two people would be easier" I think it would!!! Great job man!. I would use a facemask next time!
Haha yeah! I’ll try to ware a mask next time! 😷 thanks!
@@SimonSaysDIY Stay healthy buddy! =]
Great channel, you are a Superman . Great job. Which I had your skills.
Thanks so much! 😁
I have done this before. It is a lot of work for one person. But I was in my twenties then. Had a sore back for a few days. But worth the effort. Nice job Sir!
Thanks! 😁
Hi, iam trying to learn, dont you need to wire or use rebar so the concrete doesn’t crack?
Yes, especially if the concrete is load baring. The metal with strengthen the concrete a bit but will hold the concrete together if it does crack. This concrete will not have any weight on is so I chose to skip the
Metal as it will likely never have the weight on it to crack. My driveway for example has metal in it.
Thanks!
What about the wood in between the two slabs? Is that ok to leave it there?
I left it and it’s almost disintegrated by now and I haven’t seen an issue with it! :)
Excellent video
Thanks so much! :) I really appreciate it!
Great job
Thanks! 😁
Treat the forms with a water repellent to help the release from the concrete.
Thanks! 😁
Diesel fuel
Wow that's a lot of work! Nice job man
Thanks! I appreciate it!
@Rex Reyansh yup, have been watching on flixzone} for months myself :D
@Rex Reyansh Definitely, I have been watching on Flixzone} for months myself :D
Great video!
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much!! :)
Expansion joint not wood in between slabs. Plastic then wire on top of rocks to prevent the slap from cracking.
It's best to put down a layer of plastic sheeting under the concrete, to prevent concrete from sweating
Thanks for the tip! :)
Replaced a section of walkway for a new client several years ago. Told her to avoid walking on it for 2 days. When I returned to mist it the next day there were four, half inch deep lines in the concrete. They said they were careful not to walk on it when they moved the upright grand piano across it from the moving truck. They asked if I made the concrete too soft.
Hahahaha! I would not have been too happy 😂
Thanks for the video!
Hey did you follow the directions on how much water to add? your mix looks a lot wetter than what it turns out when you follow the directions
No, I added a little extra to help it from drying out too much because it took awhile mixing all of those bags alone.
Thanks!
I want to start by giving you a big 👍 for taking on the job by yourself. And I hope the patio gives your family decades of use and memories.😎.......Ok, the rest of my comment isn't me trying to tell you how to do that job. I'm not a concrete worker.😁 But, back in the '70s-'80s my dad and I poured several sidewalks, pads for various things, and ect. around the farm. Now, Dad was a construction contractor, so he had access to actual metal forms to use, instead of the wood. But I digress... What I wanted to say, is that I have never heard of anyone using gravel under concrete. I was always told/taught (maybe incorrectly?) to use a base of leveled and packed sand. And of course, rebar or "wire" cattle/hog panels for strength. But after reading the comments, before I commented, I seen that topic was discussed several times. And I understand your reasoning.😎
Thanks I really appreciate the tips! I will have to try using sand next time! :)
@@SimonSaysDIY 👍
I do do concrete for a living,
It varies depending on your location. Up north(I'm in pa) you want to use clean stone to provide drainage under the concrete. Helps with the freeze/thaw of the concrete. Slab tur Ed out nice good job.
Would it be possible to do something this size without using a mixer, as the concreate and sand are already mixed. Can you not empty the bags inside the forms and and then add the water from a hose?
You would still need to mix it up on the ground with the water. I suppose it’s doable but it will be a lot more work mixing by hand.
I'm going to pour them right on the ground. And maybe even use something to make it boxy. And even use a rock smoother stick for the top.
One question though, do I add the water after I poured it all out or before I open the bag.? Or is this the kind you can just let it get rained on like I did the driveway. You remember how that turned out.? I hope so,... because I don't.
So what were we talking about again.... oh yeah.. fishing🎣 so there I was you see...............I...i just cast out.... that's when I thought about the rock smoother.
You know the other day I found out to before only get that way if you put two of them together.
Awesome! thank you!
Thanks! 😁 you’re very welcome!
Could you pour without the gravel? About how many bags of gravel did you have to work with? Could you use one of the manual metal compactors or none at all? If you were doing on a slight grade could you just use those black tubes they use for gutters to direct water away?
If you put plastic down, (Vapor barrier) on top of the gravel your concrete will dry slower and harder . Also add dish soap to concrete mix it will slow the cure, buy you more time.
Vapor barriers quite often lead to slab edge curling. Back in the 80's we learned that if using a vapor barrier (retarder) you need a sand layer on top of the VB to prevent said curling. The initial water/cement ratio will control the ultimate strength, not 'drying time'. This concrete was mixed with an 11" slump and I am guessing an 80% water/cement ratio I would be surprised if it lasts a couple of hard winters without powdering. If you want to slow the curing process, use an admixture to retard the set, not more water. If you want the mix to flow better, use a plasticizer. Too much water just reduces the strength. While you are suggesting dish soap why not pull out all the wives tales and suggest sugar? Neither does anything except contaminate the mix.
Bet line I ever heard about concrete; "POURED concrete is POOR concrete."
@@SemicrazyMagatrucker First I will say that I will not indulge you in childish insults, if you want to play that game, go elsewhere.
My background in concrete is fairly extensive; over 50 years of designing concrete structures as a registered professional engineer, mostly high rise but with several million square feet of slab on grade thrown in. My formal education is a Masters and a Doctorate in reinforced concrete theory. If it means anything to you, I assisted Wang and Salmon in two edits of their text on reinforced concrete. I have served on dozens of national engineering and building code development committees. Please, for the record, share your background.
While the model building codes do require the use of a vapor retarder in conditioned spaces, the use is not required in unheated garages, patios or exterior slabs. There is of course the possibility that a local jurisdiction has amended this requirement but none of which I am aware have done so for a patio.
I do not believe that I ever stated that you said anything about adding water to the mix - I was commenting on the amount of water added to get the 11" slump we saw in the video. I read very well thank you, And I also know that slowing the curing time of concrete will do nothing for its hardness, strength yes, hardness, no. Actually, when the water cement ratio gets up in the 70's you will find that the surface of the concrete becomes softer and will powder over time.Almost the same result as allowing the surface to freeze after the initial heat of hydration has dissipated.
Yes, plastic below a slab will retain water in the slab, the lower portion of the slab. The upper portion will gain its initial set before the lower portion thus shrinking more than the lower portion and creating slab edge curling. While you may not see it, you will feel it with your hand or foot. This is not my theory, it was studied and was well documented by the Portland Cement Association back in the 60's. To prevent the curling and promote an even release of the entrained water, the sand layer on top of the vapor retarder was used. It is still being used by designers and contractors who understand the problem. Ever noticed how the joint lines between slabs are often ground smooth prior to the placement of a hard finish material that can telegraph any flaw? Edge curling.
Why on earth anyone would expect a quality concrete mix to be sold by a landscape supply who will not guarantee the plants they sell is beyond me. The very thought of letting a batch of concrete sit in a mixerless trailer for three hours with all the aggregate settling to the bottom is counter to all good concreting practices. Real concrete is coming out of the truck in an hour and completed at a rate of not more than 7 - 10 minutes per yard depending on the project specifications.
That misting you see? It is to help prevent surface checking and edge curling. It does nothing to harden the concrete, strengthen possibly but by the time they are misting it they might as well be using a good cure/seal agent. But those cost more than water.
Aside from the obvious spelling and context errors, your last sentence makes no sense; I never suggested not using a vapor retarder, just that it be used properly. And for what it's worth, April 1972 was the last time I smoked anything of a nature to which you refer.
@@SemicrazyMagatrucker Ah yes, why would you start now? Not to be cliche, but a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
@@SemicrazyMagatrucker Concrete is CAST. But you may have never heard that because you do not read books. Building codes, project specifications and technical writings all refer to CAST-IN-PLACE concrete; never poured. Just because you have done or thought the same thing improperly for 38 years does not make it correct. I can only assume that your experience is in residential construction where the matters I have raised are often neglected and ignored but in the real world they become serious issues. I certainly would not want a guy who 'pours' footings for a house to become my lead foreman on a a high-rise where we are pumping a 10,000 pound mix 500 feet up to a two-way reinforced slab.
here we spray it with diesel to slow the drying time im in the desert we have to
No rebar? Are you confident it won’t crack without rebar?
No wire mesh?
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
@@SimonSaysDIY is there a frost line? where are you ? I was thinking about ground movement. For a little extra cost a wire mesh would not hurt.
Looks amazing. Nicely done
Thanks! I appreciate it!
What model of tractor is that?
Cub lo Boy 154. I'm not sure the year.
@@SimonSaysDIY thank you, nice little tractor
I recently did a pour with a mixer I rented from Home Depot with my girlfriend. 161 80lb bags in 3 hours (man was I sore though)
Enjoyed the video getting ready to do some concrete work myself and this gave me some good ideas!
Glad to hear it! Thanks ☺️
Is buying bags and mixing it cheaper than having a concrete truck poor the whole slab? If so, by how much?
So it depends on the amount you need:
1 cubic Yard of bagged Concrete it is $148 + tax.
1 Cubic yard in my area for a ready mix company to deliver it is $145 per yard and an additional charge for loads under 4 yards which is $175. That is $320 + tax for one yard.
My slab took almost 1.75 yards so i saved at least $175 using bags.
So it is cheaper and easier if you need 4 yards or more to order a delivery. anything under 4 yards it will be much cheaper to use bags.
Hope that helps!
I am planning on explaining that in my next concrete video.
Thanks!
All that hard work to save $200? Holy cow!
What happened to putting in wire mesh
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
Any project over 60 bags you should order up a concrete pour via cement truck
I agree but at the time of this video no concrete companies would deliver concrete on the weekends and that’s when I do all of my work. Thanks! 😁
Id recommend using a fiber matt between the soil and the gravel, if you're working with soft soil. that way the gravel wont sink and mix with the soil.
It looks really good tho :D impressive work 👍
Thanks for the tip! I didn't know that was an option. I'll look into that next time.
Thanks! :)
Soft soil? Pretty sure I saw him using a pickax on it. lol
You need to put some steel in you wet slab to give it strength. A cattle panel would work great.
Why not use steel bar or mesh for strength
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
@@SimonSaysDIY here in Oklahoma all the pads I've seen they put steel bar in it. I've also been told here they do it because we are next to fort sill. It's an artillery post.
concrete is good to walk on after a couple hours. you can remove the forms in about 4 hours. no need to wait 3 days like you said. Just poured a 9' x 12' pad myself and i didnt work nearly as hard as you did. Set the mixer inside the form and move it as you go. Wheelbarrow is just an unnecessary waist of time.
Thanks for the tips! 😄
You should have included either reinforcing wire or rebar. You are most likely going to get a lot of cracks and shifting, depending on how long you are there. Oh, well tough luck for the next owner.
So how many bags!?
What no steel?
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
@@SimonSaysDIY You Convinced me!
Why didn't you protect the 6 x6 before you started?
I wasn’t too worried about it because was able to rinse off any splashed concrete easily before it hardened fully :)
@@SimonSaysDIY all you needed to do was wrap the 6 x6 with plastic
It is cheaper to buy cement and build blend?
Thanks for the tip!
We have a cement mixer that is low to the ground -- like a wheelbarrow. We got one of those so that I (the wife) could mix cement by myself. I do not have to lift the bag so high. Easier to put the concrete mix in and easier to pour. I can pour straight into the form from the mixer. Sure beats mixing in a pan or in the wheelbarrow. I just do not have the strength, if mixing a lot of bags, to do them all by hand. I purchased my mixer through The Home Depot and it arrived within 3 days.
That’s awesome! I have seen those. I may have to upgrade my mixer :) thanks!
You should have placed rebar or wire mesh panels in the concrete.
The slab is meant to be a patio and won’t be supporting any weight. This makes it less important as it doesn’t need the extra strength. For anything load baring you %100 need metal not only to add strength but to also hold everything together if it should crack. Thanks!
I always like to watch how people build around the world because we can get nice ideas to use in our own constructions. I am curious, don`t you guys use "mestras"(concrete rails that serve as a guide to make the slab really even)? The piece of wood left inside may rot and cause a hole in the slab in some time, unless, it is a special kind of wood for this purpose, right? Here in Brazil, we make "mestras" and they help a lot if you have a big place to cover, no concrete truck, and you will mix the concrete and do the work by yourself, therefore, not at once. We will post some videos showing how the two of us poured a nice concrete slab, mixing gravel, sand and cement by hand, using "mestras". Cool video! The slab got nice!
3 mistakes here... 1 you didnt wear a mask pouring the bags.,. that dust IS not healthy.. two.. you need to use a ground compactor for the dirt and rock layers. before you pour. 3rd you put way too much water in that mix
Agreed. I’ll add that he floated it way too early.
Plus no wire reinforcing
@@normannix4623 For the application, that's okay. We did a lot of sidewalks with no reinforcing and they've held up.
Also no rebar completing wromg and. Or even moiature barrier either
@@jaandel1 well moisture barrier isnt needed.. that wasnt done decades ago. I have slabs 40-50 years old at my farm with no plastic under them. Just poured right over gravel on a clay surface. None have cracks or splits. Minus one that sagged due to erosion under itself
Thank you ! 04/26/2022
Thanks so much!! :)
Bag cost vs truck cost? inquiring minds would want to know.
10 yards in a mixer delivered is about $1,275 .. that job can be shuted . No pumper needed.
Thanks! :)
Did you take out the middle divider before you poured the second area? It looked like you did. Thanks for the video. It look good.
Yes I did, Thanks so much! 😄
Nice red clay.
Haha Thanks! 😁
Adding too much water when mixing cement results in weaker concrete.
Better to saturate the substrate and mix your cement stiffer.
Thanks for the tip! Would it help to lay plastic down along the ground to keep moisture from soaking into the ground?
@@SimonSaysDIY Yes, and it would prevent the slab from absorbing moisture from the ground after it cures.
Put it on the bottom only (not up the sides) so it doesn't make a bowl to hold water.
For maximum strenght concrete should be kept moist during the first few days of the curing process (3 days to 85% cure, 28 days to 98%)
Looks like a pretty weak poor but should be more than adequate for that patio. I think you did a good job considering what you were working with.
Couldn’t you just empty the bags in the form and mist/ wet it over a short amount of time without all the mixing?
No, not possible
That would be more difficult and would not be nearly as strong. :)
Okay where is your rebar???
Yes, especially if the concrete is load baring. The metal with strengthen the concrete a bit but will hold the concrete together if it does crack. This concrete will not have any weight on is so I chose to skip the
Metal as it will likely never have the weight on it to crack. My driveway for example has metal in it.
Thanks!
Handling that concrete without a mask? Wow.
It is a fallacy that concrete needs to “Dry Out” and that being dry cures the concrete_ There is a chemical reaction taking place, not drying.. So.. 1. don’t add water after you mix it to the correct consistency (He doesn’t do this here) 2. Concrete heats up as the chemical reaction takes place.. if it goes over 90 degrees F. It is too late and it will not be strong when it cures (commercial ready mix uses the 90/90 qualifier… 90 minutes since mixed or 90 degrees temp.. it will be crap.) 3. Always have help.. it is heavy stuff and it takes effort to work it into the forms properly… And it will be junk if you hurt yourself and aren’t able to continue. 4. Concrete/ Cement is CAUSTIC.. Wear gloves and a respirator for God’s sake! Lungs never recover from the inhalation damage and the dust in your eyes is no joke. Wet the slab down for at least 4 days after your pour.. just get the surface wet.. it will cure harder. I inspected concrete and cement in commercial construction for a few years.
Definitely use a truck on that big of a slab. It’s probably cheaper. Definitely less labor and time. They will deliver mixed concrete to anyone.
To anyone doing this, PLEASE wear a mask.
Been cheaper and easier and quicker to had a concrete truck come dump leave and finish the thing without the 12 trips to the store all the mixing all the water and all the time. Just saying. Better concrete too. Good luck with the slab!!!!
Actually the bags are a bit cheaper where I live but it is well worth it to save the work and get a truck to deliver. The only problem is the concrete companies are so busy with large construction that they no longer deliver on Saturdays and they are booked up 3-4 month in advance. Not very practical so I did it my self. :)
concrete contractor here. Never pour a slab unless you use a transit mixer, it ain't worth it. only a monolithic slab never leave form wood in the slab. Get a pro finisher every time.
Regarding the digging: YOU do realize that you OWN and know how to drive that TRACTOR, don’t you? Wtf?
Way too much water.
Because it took so long to mix and pour having it on the wetter side gave me a little more time to work! :) thanks!
unbelievable way way way way toooooo much water in that mix, never seen that much water in concrete in my life
Way to much water
Mixing them individually alone you need it to be a bit wetter than normal to help it from drying our to fast. This doesn’t keep it from setting up so you still have to work fast but if it gets too dry it gets really hard to work even if it hasn’t set up yet.
Thanks!
@@SimonSaysDIY Ideally the solution would be to mix in a plasticizer. But it's not the end of the world.
you really need to wear a mask
That’s what my wife said. You’re probably right!
May not seem like alot but the build up of cement dust in your lungs is really bad for you.
Thanks! I’ll try to be more careful in the future! :)
You making soup or concrete jesus christ!
New meaning to self leveling
Waste of time get truck
Trucks her are booked up 3 months ahead and don’t deliver on Saturdays… I would weather have a truck deliver lol :)
Still wrong
Would love some tips as I am clearly not a professional and have much I could learn :) Thanks!