@confidencesailing you see that little black cap next to the oil filter that is attached to the green oil suction tube going to the bottom of the oil pan???? Take that black rubber cap off by simply pulling and then use that tube as your suction point! Cheers! It is the same on ALOT of Volvo Pentas
Hi Robert. I know the black cap of which you speak. I've got so used to 'going through the dipstick' that I've never actually used the 'correct' method for this engine. I did consider it when making the video, but decided to stick to the 'old' method. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
It is not recommended to use a tool to tighten the filter. Tighten by hand. This is done to avoid denting the filter that can cause a fatigue failure at the dent due to pulse pressure in the system. Spiridion Azzopardi
Nice video! FWIW I was taught (high school Auto mechanics,1970’s) to smear a thin film of the new oil on the new oil filter thread and gasket. Also suggest using a funnel to add the oil. My 1977 era Volvo Penta Gas engine came with a hose attached to the oil pan drain plug. It took a few seasons of boating to discover it and it’s great for oil removal. Cheers!
1. You are using the tool the wrong way. 2. Never use the tool you unscrew the filter for tightening the oil filter. Only hand tightening and always apply oil to the gasket
Hi. Thx for the video. One question. Why are you using the dipstickhole instead of using the oil drain pipe? Are you really able to suck all 3,6 lieters from the dipstic hole?
The D series do have drain holes. And they would definitely perform better at draining than auction. But the drain hole is in an awkward spot to place a suitable recepticle for the waste oil. Also on my last two engines the drain/sump plug was completely inaccessible so I have gotten used to doing it that way. If you have a D-series engine and can get a decent bottle or can under it, then yes definitely use it.
Three mistakes were made there whilst changing the oil filter. The new one needs filling with oil, a film of new oil around the new rubber gasket and only hand tighten which others have mentioned on this thread. Hold the oil filter vertically and just below the housing whilst it is full of oil and fairly quickly move to the horizontal position and screw on. This engine also takes far too long to fire up, maybe the fuel system could do with a good clean out. Try and keep fuel tanks as full or empty as possible to avoid condensation forming within them resulting in microbiological sludge building up in the bottom where the water settles after dripping from the tank walls. Check coolant level, water drain in your filter and oil level before each start up day. Warm the engine up for a good 20 minutes. Use a good fuel additive with each fuel tank fill to keep the system, particularly injectors and fuel pumps clean inside. It is surprising to see when a well used fuel pump is dismantled for reconditioning just how much in terms of black deposits are removed from the small fuel holes if no additive has been used. Check torque of all shaft coupling nuts and bolts and all engine and gearbox mounts ever 500 hours. This will reduce the main machinery rattling loose and falling out of alignment resulting in vibration problems. Good husbandry of your marine engine will help give thousands of hours hassle free boating and save a small fortune over the years. If you have got a bit of technical ability about you or are willing to learn from books, do it yourself, no need to pay a character like me working for a company with a glossy website £60-80+ an hour to do it for you.
@confidencesailing you see that little black cap next to the oil filter that is attached to the green oil suction tube going to the bottom of the oil pan???? Take that black rubber cap off by simply pulling and then use that tube as your suction point! Cheers! It is the same on ALOT of Volvo Pentas
Hi Robert. I know the black cap of which you speak.
I've got so used to 'going through the dipstick' that I've never actually used the 'correct' method for this engine.
I did consider it when making the video, but decided to stick to the 'old' method. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Very useful, thanks also to the people that wrote suggestions !
It is not recommended to use a tool to tighten the filter. Tighten by hand. This is done to avoid denting the filter that can cause a fatigue failure at the dent due to pulse pressure in the system.
Spiridion Azzopardi
Nice video! FWIW I was taught (high school Auto mechanics,1970’s) to smear a thin film of the new oil on the new oil filter thread and gasket. Also suggest using a funnel to add the oil.
My 1977 era Volvo Penta Gas engine came with a hose attached to the oil pan drain plug. It took a few seasons of boating to discover it and it’s great for oil removal. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing! And thanks for Watching.
1. You are using the tool the wrong way.
2. Never use the tool you unscrew the filter for tightening the oil filter. Only hand tightening and always apply oil to the gasket
Hi. Thx for the video. One question. Why are you using the dipstickhole instead of using the oil drain pipe? Are you really able to suck all 3,6 lieters from the dipstic hole?
The D series do have drain holes. And they would definitely perform better at draining than auction. But the drain hole is in an awkward spot to place a suitable recepticle for the waste oil.
Also on my last two engines the drain/sump plug was completely inaccessible so I have gotten used to doing it that way.
If you have a D-series engine and can get a decent bottle or can under it, then yes definitely use it.
Three mistakes were made there whilst changing the oil filter. The new one needs filling with oil, a film of new oil around the new rubber gasket and only hand tighten which others have mentioned on this thread. Hold the oil filter vertically and just below the housing whilst it is full of oil and fairly quickly move to the horizontal position and screw on. This engine also takes far too long to fire up, maybe the fuel system could do with a good clean out. Try and keep fuel tanks as full or empty as possible to avoid condensation forming within them resulting in microbiological sludge building up in the bottom where the water settles after dripping from the tank walls. Check coolant level, water drain in your filter and oil level before each start up day. Warm the engine up for a good 20 minutes. Use a good fuel additive with each fuel tank fill to keep the system, particularly injectors and fuel pumps clean inside. It is surprising to see when a well used fuel pump is dismantled for reconditioning just how much in terms of black deposits are removed from the small fuel holes if no additive has been used. Check torque of all shaft coupling nuts and bolts and all engine and gearbox mounts ever 500 hours. This will reduce the main machinery rattling loose and falling out of alignment resulting in vibration problems. Good husbandry of your marine engine will help give thousands of hours hassle free boating and save a small fortune over the years. If you have got a bit of technical ability about you or are willing to learn from books, do it yourself, no need to pay a character like me working for a company with a glossy website £60-80+ an hour to do it for you.