At first I was like: Ah, my climbing gym must have bought the same campus board as yours. Didn't know you could buy them as a whole. Then I realized this is my climbing gym 😂
I was just yesterday thinking "wouldn't it be nice if i could find a beginner tutorial for those weird training boards I see at the gym" ::visits this channel:: "Oh!"
Great video :) I find the footholds on the wall behind the campus board helpful as a beginner as well since i dont want to strain my fingers with my whole bodyweight just yet.
Hi. You mention at test/check in the video of when you are ready to train with a campusboard but then you dont mention it again. Do you have tips of when to know when you are strong enough to start?
Conventional wisdom has it that nobody even needs the campus board until after at least one year of regular climbing. There are far bigger and safer gains to be made by simply climbing when you are new... Of course for every opinion there is a counter opinion.
Adam Ondra said in some video (I don't remember which one) that nobody should start hangboarding or campusboarding before one is able to climb a 7a indoors (either boulder or lead)
subscribed - I go three - two times a week how would you structure these training sections (campus, core strength and such) into a normal bouldering training? I love your videos dude!!!!
You say to do 10-15 repetitions, how many sets of repetitions would you recommend? Just subscribed but I love your channel so far-- keep up the good information about how to train!
Thanks for the support! I maybe expressed myself a bit unclear there: Actually I meant just go as far as you can (as many moves as you can do back to back), make 3 minutes rest and repeat this 10 to 15 times, so it's actually 10-15 sets, the "repetitions" depend on how far you can get during one set until you fall off. Hope this helps, Cheers!
Just make the terminology clear: you do a certain number of sets of a certain number of repetitions of a particular move. For example doing 3 sets of 12 pushups. This is how most people would understand it :-)
Quick question on the grip. When you broke it down you said use the 4 finger open grip. It doesn’t look like the thumb is involved. But in the clips from the workout it looks like the thumb is sort of pinching the bottom part of the board. Is that true or does it just look like that on the video? In other words are you supposed to use your thumb or just the four fingers?
Nice. I'm working my way up to being able to workout on the campus board. I've only been climbing for 5 months, so I don't want to push it. Would you reccomend dead hangs on the campus board rungs to build up the strength to do 1-1's? Also, do you lift weights at all or just climbing/bodyweight training?
I'm in the exact same situation! I've tried to build up finger strength progressively by doing overhangs and carrying shopping bags full of mangoes (lol) with 2-3 fingers XD Don't know if that's a good idea though.... It's going soo sllooooow :(
+Coleslice The number 1 finger strength builder is time imo. You gotta be consistent and patient, it's a real pain, I know because I'm struggling with it a lot as well. It also seems to fluctuate a lot and it's hardly measurable, which makes it even harder to feel progress. 5 months is not much when it comes to climbing, keep also in mind that only small gains at a time will spare you from injury in the finger region, as the whole tendon-joint apparatus lags behind muscle development. Dead hangs are an option, they don't necessarily need to be done on the campusboard, which may be used by other people for its actual purpose :P just find a hangboard with holds that are more or less similar in size and get some sessions done there. I do not use weights, except for when I want to make other exercises harder.
Thanks for the in depth reply, man! Climbing has become a passion of mine very quickly, so I've progressed at a pretty fast rate, but I'm starting to hit plateaus around the v5 range where I'm lacking contact strength. I'll just keep training! Your vids keep me on track diet and training-wise. I appreciate the work you put in making them!
***** Yeees let's do it! Patience is the key :) And couldn't agree more with your previous message- Vegan Rockclimbing you really are helpful! You give a really good overview of what is important to focus on and you're always informative! Thanks for everything!!
Hey Mani, I've recently been watching your videos and they have been helping me a ton with my progression. I've been climbing a few months now and want to start slowly incorporating campus training into my workouts. What would you recommend for how many times a week you do campus training for someone who is just starting?
be careful. I've heard it suggested to not even bother with a campus board until you're climbing in the v4-v5 range solidly because there's a super high risk of injuring your fingers, but I suppose if you're very careful it would be alright.
Elizabeth Thomas personally, I didn't start campus boarding until I could consistently climb v7-8. Just climbing and interval/hangboard training was enough with conditioning on the side.
Nice. I'm working my way up to being able to workout on the campus board. I've only been climbing for 5 months, so I don't want to push it. Would you reccomend dead hangs on the campus board rungs to build up the strength to do 1-1's? Also, do you lift weights at all or just climbing/bodyweight training?
The measurements on the campus board I have acces to are kinda similar. I can go up and down twice pretty easily while skipping one rung. For some reason the gym only has these "noob-friendly" 2.5 cm thick rungs with a rough surface, and super small ones which are like 1.5 cm thick with a smooth surface. I can not even do a single pull-up on these :-( Do you have any tips on how to build up strength to do this kind of campus training on the thin holds?
+pdude1911 Good question. 1.5 cm is really thin. The campusboard, which I showed in the vid was made "noob-friendlier" recently, they replaced smaller rungs completely by those which I showed, to my regret :/ , but I'm quite sure even those rungs from former times were bigger than 1.5cm. Was the surface made smooth intentionally, or is it because of the chalk layer that has accumulated? If you want to train on those rungs, I would recommend you get some hangboard sessions done (on a hold which is similarly small, and in a grip which you use on the campusboard, a passive one preferably) until you have enough power to do 3-4 moves. Hope this helps, but I have not much exp with rungs that small tbh.
Vegan Rockclimbing Thanks for your reply :-) Yeah I think it's supposed to be smooth. They're the small campus rungs from Metolius wood grips, and apparently it's 19 mm thick. The campus board is also tilted quite steep which makes it even harder, and come to think of it, I barely see anyone ever use them :-/ That's a good idea about the hangboard, I really should get one to be able to train at home. Thinking about getting the one from Moon Climbing.
+pdude1911 All right I know these rungs, these ones were on this campusboard as well before they exchanged them. I found them quite nice to train on, but you're right, they are quite smooth. Brushing helped a little, but not much. The thing with smooth surfaces is that you have to hold them more actively, which does not only lead to a better training stimulus, but also protects your skin at the same time. On rough surfaces we tend to use skin friction more, leading to sore skin faster. A hangboard at home is essential :D Get a wooden one with nice roundings.
what the last person said. with progressive overload, which is what should be driving your training, it's until the power drops. from week to week, you're ideally able to work harder. if that's not the case, time to rest/deload.
I am already doing campus exercises for some time now but i am still not able to get much help from my lower hand when i am trying 1 3 5 and so on. i am pushing with it up but it seems that i am only tiring myself rather than go up... what should you suggest i do? what kind of exercises should i be doing? thanks in advance for your tips :D. ps: good video
Thanks George! If I was in your shoes I would take the two rungs let's say 1 and 3 you have problems with, pull yourself up until you're in the pulling/pushing position, and try to hold that. Repeat that a couple of times. If you're getting used to it, maybe add some weight (on a harness for example). Try to train it in different constellations, also with 1 and 4 maybe, and also arms almost straight vs arms fully bent and so on. You will get stronger in these simplified situations, and you will feel that strength soon when you try the full moves again. That's only one thing you can do, you gotta be creative :) hope this helps.
hey mani , nur mal so als frage.... ich bin dabei mir zu hause n kleinen "boulderpark" zu bauen.hab ein paar sehr hohe wände (ca 6,5m indoor) , tonnenweise holz und wenig geld um plastik holds zu kaufen. denkst du es ist gut bzw sinnvoll welche aus holz oder zement zu bauen? da hätte ich genug von zur verfügung ...
Holzgriffe (leisten zangen löcher) sind glaube ich super zum trainieren, die Oberfläche ist freundlicher zur haut und man muss die Griffe aktiver halten. Würde echt gerne mal so eine reine Holzwand ausprobieren. Also an deiner Stelle würd ichs mit Holzgriffen probieren.
Hey, fan of your channel, but what's up with "for softies"? Are you a super hard tough guy? And is there something amateur-like about being soft? Just asking, finding that choice of words a bit off-putting. Otherwise, keep on vlogginh ;-)
I mean, McColl and Magnus are both better climbers than Mani, but all 3 are in the top 1% of the sport, so I'm not sure why you would classify them as beasts and Mani not? Mani's video is much better than the other two's in terms of instruction, explanation and detail, which is surely what matters most..
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
At first I was like: Ah, my climbing gym must have bought the same campus board as yours. Didn't know you could buy them as a whole. Then I realized this is my climbing gym 😂
I was just yesterday thinking "wouldn't it be nice if i could find a beginner tutorial for those weird training boards I see at the gym" ::visits this channel:: "Oh!"
:D
Hi! Great Video! By the way - these are our target10a campus rungs! 👍🙂 Thank you for using them!
Great video :) I find the footholds on the wall behind the campus board helpful as a beginner as well since i dont want to strain my fingers with my whole bodyweight just yet.
Hi. You mention at test/check in the video of when you are ready to train with a campusboard but then you dont mention it again. Do you have tips of when to know when you are strong enough to start?
Conventional wisdom has it that nobody even needs the campus board until after at least one year of regular climbing. There are far bigger and safer gains to be made by simply climbing when you are new... Of course for every opinion there is a counter opinion.
Probably when you can hang a campus rung with one arm for a few seconds.
Adam Ondra said in some video (I don't remember which one) that nobody should start hangboarding or campusboarding before one is able to climb a 7a indoors (either boulder or lead)
@@JohnChadAnthonyFlea 7A boulder? are you sure? V6 seems pretty late to start
Campus boarding made complex.
Hope it helps some people who want to start including the campus board into their training!
I've read heaps of books on climbing for training and this is by far the most helpful thing I've seen on campusing. THANK YOU!
You're welcome!
whenever i shazam the intro track, i get a different title. like every time....
whats the titel of the start song?
You should have way more subs dude. great vids
+Rubber Kavanagh Thanks man! Tell your friends :P
subscribed - I go three - two times a week how would you structure these training sections (campus, core strength and such) into a normal bouldering training? I love your videos dude!!!!
You say to do 10-15 repetitions, how many sets of repetitions would you recommend?
Just subscribed but I love your channel so far-- keep up the good information about how to train!
Thanks for the support! I maybe expressed myself a bit unclear there:
Actually I meant just go as far as you can (as many moves as you can do back to back), make 3 minutes rest and repeat this 10 to 15 times, so it's actually 10-15 sets, the "repetitions" depend on how far you can get during one set until you fall off. Hope this helps, Cheers!
Just make the terminology clear: you do a certain number of sets of a certain number of repetitions of a particular move. For example doing 3 sets of 12 pushups. This is how most people would understand it :-)
Quick question on the grip. When you broke it down you said use the 4 finger open grip. It doesn’t look like the thumb is involved. But in the clips from the workout it looks like the thumb is sort of pinching the bottom part of the board. Is that true or does it just look like that on the video? In other words are you supposed to use your thumb or just the four fingers?
Elijah Markstrom never use a thumb
He means dont lock ur thumb over ur fingers aka dont full crimp
Excellent work Mani! your videos help tremendously with my progress.
Planning my first campus board sesh tomorrow morning, thanks for the video !
Clearly explained. Excited to take my climbing to the next level with some additional training!
Nice. I'm working my way up to being able to workout on the campus board. I've only been climbing for 5 months, so I don't want to push it. Would you reccomend dead hangs on the campus board rungs to build up the strength to do 1-1's?
Also, do you lift weights at all or just climbing/bodyweight training?
I'm in the exact same situation! I've tried to build up finger strength progressively by doing overhangs and carrying shopping bags full of mangoes (lol) with 2-3 fingers XD Don't know if that's a good idea though.... It's going soo sllooooow :(
+Coleslice The number 1 finger strength builder is time imo. You gotta be consistent and patient, it's a real pain, I know because I'm struggling with it a lot as well. It also seems to fluctuate a lot and it's hardly measurable, which makes it even harder to feel progress. 5 months is not much when it comes to climbing, keep also in mind that only small gains at a time will spare you from injury in the finger region, as the whole tendon-joint apparatus lags behind muscle development.
Dead hangs are an option, they don't necessarily need to be done on the campusboard, which may be used by other people for its actual purpose :P just find a hangboard with holds that are more or less similar in size and get some sessions done there. I do not use weights, except for when I want to make other exercises harder.
Thanks for the in depth reply, man! Climbing has become a passion of mine very quickly, so I've progressed at a pretty fast rate, but I'm starting to hit plateaus around the v5 range where I'm lacking contact strength. I'll just keep training! Your vids keep me on track diet and training-wise. I appreciate the work you put in making them!
qrstabby I hear ya, man. We got this!
*****
Yeees let's do it! Patience is the key :) And couldn't agree more with your previous message- Vegan Rockclimbing you really are helpful! You give a really good overview of what is important to focus on and you're always informative! Thanks for everything!!
Hey Mani, I've recently been watching your videos and they have been helping me a ton with my progression. I've been climbing a few months now and want to start slowly incorporating campus training into my workouts. What would you recommend for how many times a week you do campus training for someone who is just starting?
Start with once a week, and if you feel confident, go up to 2 times every three weeks. I never trained on the cb more often than 2 times a week.
be careful. I've heard it suggested to not even bother with a campus board until you're climbing in the v4-v5 range solidly because there's a super high risk of injuring your fingers, but I suppose if you're very careful it would be alright.
Elizabeth Thomas personally, I didn't start campus boarding until I could consistently climb v7-8. Just climbing and interval/hangboard training was enough with conditioning on the side.
Very nice video man, I like the progression!
Nice. I'm working my way up to being able to workout on the campus board. I've only been climbing for 5 months, so I don't want to push it. Would you reccomend dead hangs on the campus board rungs to build up the strength to do 1-1's?
Also, do you lift weights at all or just climbing/bodyweight training?
The measurements on the campus board I have acces to are kinda similar. I can go up and down twice pretty easily while skipping one rung. For some reason the gym only has these "noob-friendly" 2.5 cm thick rungs with a rough surface, and super small ones which are like 1.5 cm thick with a smooth surface. I can not even do a single pull-up on these :-( Do you have any tips on how to build up strength to do this kind of campus training on the thin holds?
+pdude1911 Good question. 1.5 cm is really thin. The campusboard, which I showed in the vid was made "noob-friendlier" recently, they replaced smaller rungs completely by those which I showed, to my regret :/ , but I'm quite sure even those rungs from former times were bigger than 1.5cm. Was the surface made smooth intentionally, or is it because of the chalk layer that has accumulated? If you want to train on those rungs, I would recommend you get some hangboard sessions done (on a hold which is similarly small, and in a grip which you use on the campusboard, a passive one preferably) until you have enough power to do 3-4 moves. Hope this helps, but I have not much exp with rungs that small tbh.
Vegan Rockclimbing Thanks for your reply :-) Yeah I think it's supposed to be smooth. They're the small campus rungs from Metolius wood grips, and apparently it's 19 mm thick. The campus board is also tilted quite steep which makes it even harder, and come to think of it, I barely see anyone ever use them :-/ That's a good idea about the hangboard, I really should get one to be able to train at home. Thinking about getting the one from Moon Climbing.
+pdude1911 All right I know these rungs, these ones were on this campusboard as well before they exchanged them. I found them quite nice to train on, but you're right, they are quite smooth. Brushing helped a little, but not much. The thing with smooth surfaces is that you have to hold them more actively, which does not only lead to a better training stimulus, but also protects your skin at the same time. On rough surfaces we tend to use skin friction more, leading to sore skin faster. A hangboard at home is essential :D Get a wooden one with nice roundings.
I want to buy a campus board but I dont have the place to make it overhanging does it need to be overhanging?
Yo Mani, how many reps and sets are required for a good campus board workout??
Until you feel a drop in power, it’s power training so it needs to be powerful, when you notice a dip in power then stop
what the last person said. with progressive overload, which is what should be driving your training, it's until the power drops. from week to week, you're ideally able to work harder. if that's not the case, time to rest/deload.
I am already doing campus exercises for some time now but i am still not able to get much help from my lower hand when i am trying 1 3 5 and so on. i am pushing with it up but it seems that i am only tiring myself rather than go up... what should you suggest i do? what kind of exercises should i be doing? thanks in advance for your tips :D. ps: good video
Thanks George! If I was in your shoes I would take the two rungs let's say 1 and 3 you have problems with, pull yourself up until you're in the pulling/pushing position, and try to hold that. Repeat that a couple of times. If you're getting used to it, maybe add some weight (on a harness for example). Try to train it in different constellations, also with 1 and 4 maybe, and also arms almost straight vs arms fully bent and so on. You will get stronger in these simplified situations, and you will feel that strength soon when you try the full moves again. That's only one thing you can do, you gotta be creative :) hope this helps.
Wow! that was a fast reply. Ok, i will add this to my campus training routine when i am at the gym and see how it works. :) Again thanks!
No problem :)
Awesome channel. You’ve done a lot for the climbing community :-)
hey mani , nur mal so als frage.... ich bin dabei mir zu hause n kleinen "boulderpark" zu bauen.hab ein paar sehr hohe wände (ca 6,5m indoor) , tonnenweise holz und wenig geld um plastik holds zu kaufen. denkst du es ist gut bzw sinnvoll welche aus holz oder zement zu bauen? da hätte ich genug von zur verfügung ...
Holzgriffe (leisten zangen löcher) sind glaube ich super zum trainieren, die Oberfläche ist freundlicher zur haut und man muss die Griffe aktiver halten. Würde echt gerne mal so eine reine Holzwand ausprobieren. Also an deiner Stelle würd ichs mit Holzgriffen probieren.
Great video.
hand crampus board
Unkle Fritz haha genuinely laughed from this
Hey, fan of your channel, but what's up with "for softies"? Are you a super hard tough guy? And is there something amateur-like about being soft? Just asking, finding that choice of words a bit off-putting. Otherwise, keep on vlogginh ;-)
Don't take it too seriously as I'm entirely sure it's not meant to be insulting at all.
Just a figure of speech.
But hurt much?
softies... is the kind of guy that literally triggered by some word on the Internet.
no offense mani, u are good... but watch this video after watching magnus and sean mccoll campus board traning tips..
They are real climbing beast..
I mean, McColl and Magnus are both better climbers than Mani, but all 3 are in the top 1% of the sport, so I'm not sure why you would classify them as beasts and Mani not? Mani's video is much better than the other two's in terms of instruction, explanation and detail, which is surely what matters most..
Where's your video on the matter buddy...would love to watch it.........
Just wondering but why is the 3-finger open crimp less injury prone than the 4-finger open crimp?
Since your pinky is smaller it forces you to compensate by crimping your middle finger and ring finger.
Yo devin. Hopefully your pinky is koo. Open hand tweaked my pinky(like trigger finger). So just pay close attention to your body