This was a really great video as a beginner perfumer. I had a component or two from each of the notes listed. Now, I want to mix what I have at the ratio just to see what my nose can pick up.
Thanks, Ryan! I’ve made a version of this almost a year ago, using a slightly different formula, but I haven’t had many ingredients that I have now. It was still really great. So I might try this one soon!
methyl jasmonate gives rich long lasting, substantive floral effects in all perfumes at very low dosages. It works particularly well in white florals like jasmine and lily of the valley. It can enhance aldehydic florals and chypre fragrances
They try to make it cheaper. Greed has no ends! Just look at some decades ago perfumes. Heavy as hell and projecting, without much hedion and ISO E. Nowadays with the pricing of materials and IFRA limits every perfume became a scented whisper
Vertenex (PTBCHA), Dihydro- ambrettolide (Hexadecanolide), Phenoxanol (rose abs pentanol / Mefrosol), I don't have florhydral so not sure I can use Floralozone smell ozonic; Florhydral is more floral according to my reading.
Thanks Ryan for your work!!! It's so inspiring! When you say "tea" quality when you're talking about Cypriol, are you talking about the tannic, leathery facet of regular Black Tea? Because Tea smell is so subtle and intense at the same time... it smells dry but is fresh and watery in other way. It has facets of wood, leather, and ozonic in a weird way... Nothing better than open a new fresh can/box of bagged tea and inhale deeply!
Yes! You put it well - "subtle and intense... dry but fresh... watery..." I liken that smell, that vibe, to Tea. I wish I could pinpoint it down to a molecule (the same way I'd say that Fennel smells of Methyl Chavicol, instead of saying that Fennel smells like Licorice). Alas, I don't have a reference for that :-|
@@RyanParfums yes, I know, it's so complex but not in the "it's so frustrating" way. It's so tempting to get to know it all and test all the molecules and interactions I guess. You need chemist friends with GCMS machines at their basements. :). You sould make some tier list videos talking about what you percieve about molecules and chords: The most "old lady parfum" molecules, the most fresh molecules. It would be Great!
I created a perfume using this free formula, and the opening scent is very nice-I'm happy with the result. However, when I sprayed the original Santal 33 on one hand and my version on the other, I noticed a difference after one hour: the original still has a strong sandalwood presence, but the scent of my version has almost faded. Could you advise me on how to make the sandalwood scent last longer?
You have to give it time to mature! 😃 Try to be patient, give it a couple months to sit. If, after a couple months, you notice it still doesn't last or project, then we can reassess.
@@RyanParfums Thank you for advice. So far I was following your lead and created following: Sandal 33, Sycomore, Ombre Nomade, Arabian Tonka, Layton, Angels Share, Elysium, Bois D’Argent, Aventus, Lalique, Grand Soir, 40 Knots, Lost Cherry, Baccarat Rouge 540, Oud for Greatness, Terre d’Hermes, Chance, Declaration, Coromandel, I am happy with result even I have only 375 oils, so I have improvise a lot. Thank you for inspiration and knowledge.
Hey Ryan, newbie here.. complement for your videos! P.s in your video, what is the weight in grams for the ethanol part, and how much is it diluted? You mention: ~40gr total -minus 18.45gr notes, than remaining part would be ~21.55gr ethanol? Is this correct? Because its not so clear in the video, but presumed 21,55gr ethanol=~27.3ml and i dont see glas filled up further than approx 22ml of ethanol? Lastly; how was de 18%concentration calculated? Sincerly , rudi.
Rudi, I'd urge you to ignore the batch formula that I make. It just provides a frame of reference for my brain when I talk about what I'm smelling and what is being added. There are a thousand ways to make the same formula at a given size and concentration. There are further complications like whether another solvent like DPG is calculated as part of the concentrate, and are pre-diluted materials like Galaxolide 50 a 100% contribution to the concentrate, or just 50%? It can get hectic very quickly. I aded 16.736g of ethanol to this batch. Total weight was 41.667g.
Is a carrier oil required to be mixed into the aroma chemical? Like coconut oil, jojoba, or dpg, I heard that aroma chemical should not be applied directly to the skin.
Absolutley fine to apply the mixed concentrate directly to skin. Perfumers do it all the time. The effect is the same as if you apply the same amount of concentrate diluted with alcohol: the alcohol evaporates in a matter of seconds or minutes, and all the aromachemicals and naturals remain on your skin surface. Commercial perfume oils contain a carrier mainly to make the fragrance easier to apply with a roller or dabber stick.
With a parts per thousand formula you can make it however big you want. It’s easier for most formulas to make 10g of juice. For a 30ml at 20% concentration that would be 4.8 g of juice. So you could make 2 - 30ml with a little left over. Or a 100ml at 12.5% concentration to use all 10 grams. Just remember alcohol weighs 80%. So whatever the ml take 80% of that. So 30ml would be 24g total in the bottle. 50ml would be 40grams. Obviously 80g for 100ml.
Frustrating. But remember, that money also goes to paying marketing costs, distribution, salaries and commissions for many people up and down the supply chain… Perhaps ISO E Super helps this fragrance bloom into the beauty that it is - rather than being a perfumers cop out. It’s kind of like saying you don’t think the cost of the Empire State Building is fair (if it were selling) because it’s only made of cheap steel. 🧐
Yea the level of expensive hoops a business has to jump through to make a product, get you to notice it, and get it to your part of the world is what you are paying for. Aaron Terrence Hughes will give anecdotes of these sorts of headaches from time to time.
Ryan, you cannot imagine how valuable your videos are. ❤
Just found your channel... It feels like the Mr Rogers of perfuming. So calm and comforting... Love it!
This was a really great video as a beginner perfumer. I had a component or two from each of the notes listed. Now, I want to mix what I have at the ratio just to see what my nose can pick up.
Thanks, Ryan! I’ve made a version of this almost a year ago, using a slightly different formula, but I haven’t had many ingredients that I have now. It was still really great. So I might try this one soon!
methyl jasmonate gives rich long lasting, substantive floral effects in all perfumes at very low dosages. It works particularly well in white florals like jasmine and lily of the valley. It can enhance aldehydic florals and chypre fragrances
Fun fact, Isoraldeine, is basically methyl ionone gamma, so if you ever see that in a formula and don't have it. Ionone gamma will do
Nice! I’m going to try this formula today.
60% ISO E Super is insane!
Man it seems like I should spray myself with timbersilk almost every fragrance has iso e super in it
They try to make it cheaper. Greed has no ends! Just look at some decades ago perfumes. Heavy as hell and projecting, without much hedion and ISO E. Nowadays with the pricing of materials and IFRA limits every perfume became a scented whisper
@@Mahdizenzone yes almost every one of them is mostly musk, iso e super and hedione. Why even buy a bunch of different ones
Thank u Ryan i will try this formula
Vertenex (PTBCHA), Dihydro- ambrettolide (Hexadecanolide), Phenoxanol (rose abs pentanol / Mefrosol), I don't have florhydral so not sure I can use Floralozone smell ozonic; Florhydral is more floral according to my reading.
Please make a Lafayette St. like perfume
Hey Ryan I enjoy your work. Creed Santal is a very interesting fragrance. Would this have a similar vibe? Thx
Creed's original Santal is very different. It's like a more refined/elegant Joop! Homme.
@@RyanParfums thx man
Thanks Ryan for your work!!! It's so inspiring!
When you say "tea" quality when you're talking about Cypriol, are you talking about the tannic, leathery facet of regular Black Tea? Because Tea smell is so subtle and intense at the same time... it smells dry but is fresh and watery in other way. It has facets of wood, leather, and ozonic in a weird way... Nothing better than open a new fresh can/box of bagged tea and inhale deeply!
Yes! You put it well - "subtle and intense... dry but fresh... watery..."
I liken that smell, that vibe, to Tea. I wish I could pinpoint it down to a molecule (the same way I'd say that Fennel smells of Methyl Chavicol, instead of saying that Fennel smells like Licorice). Alas, I don't have a reference for that :-|
@@RyanParfums yes, I know, it's so complex but not in the "it's so frustrating" way. It's so tempting to get to know it all and test all the molecules and interactions I guess. You need chemist friends with GCMS machines at their basements. :). You sould make some tier list videos talking about what you percieve about molecules and chords: The most "old lady parfum" molecules, the most fresh molecules. It would be Great!
I'm still looking for a formula for Vetiver 46.
Love Le Labo!
I haven’t found one either. I’ll keep my eyes open.
there's another formula for santal 33 floating around. would be interesting if you mix that as well to compare
Im digging those pipettes. Where would I acquire those, sir?
Amazon :-) they are 1ml disposable pipettes.
@RyanParfums Awesome, thank you, sir. I use 3 ml, but I'm not liking them.
Where do you get these formula? Awsome video.
Link is in the video description. Reddit.
I created a perfume using this free formula, and the opening scent is very nice-I'm happy with the result. However, when I sprayed the original Santal 33 on one hand and my version on the other, I noticed a difference after one hour: the original still has a strong sandalwood presence, but the scent of my version has almost faded. Could you advise me on how to make the sandalwood scent last longer?
You have to give it time to mature! 😃 Try to be patient, give it a couple months to sit. If, after a couple months, you notice it still doesn't last or project, then we can reassess.
@@RyanParfums Thank you for advice. So far I was following your lead and created following: Sandal 33, Sycomore, Ombre Nomade, Arabian Tonka, Layton, Angels Share, Elysium, Bois D’Argent, Aventus, Lalique, Grand Soir, 40 Knots, Lost Cherry, Baccarat Rouge 540, Oud for Greatness, Terre d’Hermes, Chance, Declaration, Coromandel, I am happy with result even I have only 375 oils, so I have improvise a lot.
Thank you for inspiration and knowledge.
Rosemary and Eucalyptus smiler but I prefer eucalyptus over Rosemary.
Can you make Le Labo Another 13 next?
I do have a formula for that one, but I’ll keep my eyes open for one
HI RYAN CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT "PTBCHA" STANDS FOR IN THIS AND OTHER FORUMLAS? THANKS!
It’s Vertenex! It also goes by other names:
Lorysia
4-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate
Para Tertiary Butyl Cyclohexyl Acetate
PTBCHA 🙂
Hey Ryan, newbie here.. complement for your videos! P.s in your video, what is the weight in grams for the ethanol part, and how much is it diluted? You mention: ~40gr total -minus 18.45gr notes, than remaining part would be ~21.55gr ethanol? Is this correct? Because its not so clear in the video, but presumed 21,55gr ethanol=~27.3ml and i dont see glas filled up further than approx 22ml of ethanol?
Lastly; how was de 18%concentration calculated?
Sincerly , rudi.
Rudi, I'd urge you to ignore the batch formula that I make. It just provides a frame of reference for my brain when I talk about what I'm smelling and what is being added. There are a thousand ways to make the same formula at a given size and concentration. There are further complications like whether another solvent like DPG is calculated as part of the concentrate, and are pre-diluted materials like Galaxolide 50 a 100% contribution to the concentrate, or just 50%? It can get hectic very quickly.
I aded 16.736g of ethanol to this batch. Total weight was 41.667g.
Ryan do you add BHT to your perfume concentrate to prevent oxidation?
Yes I do!
This doesn’t look anything like I would imagine. I did call the Australian Sandalwood. I thought for sure Kephalis would be in there.
Interesting.
Is a carrier oil required to be mixed into the aroma chemical? Like coconut oil, jojoba, or dpg, I heard that aroma chemical should not be applied directly to the skin.
Absolutley fine to apply the mixed concentrate directly to skin. Perfumers do it all the time. The effect is the same as if you apply the same amount of concentrate diluted with alcohol: the alcohol evaporates in a matter of seconds or minutes, and all the aromachemicals and naturals remain on your skin surface. Commercial perfume oils contain a carrier mainly to make the fragrance easier to apply with a roller or dabber stick.
What program do you use for the frangrance pyramid?
Formulair
a follover from SPAIN
Does anyone know what PTBCHA stands for in this formula and others ?
It stands for PTBCHA. It’s a material with that name
Where do you get the GCMS done if needed? Any Lab you can suggest.
I've heard good things about WB2 Lab Co, based in China. Search for them on LinkedIn.
@@RyanParfums
Yes i have experience with them…Thank you brother.
Best wishes
If you follow the formula with a total part of 1000, usually for how many ml of perfume?,
With a parts per thousand formula you can make it however big you want.
It’s easier for most formulas to make 10g of juice.
For a 30ml at 20% concentration that would be 4.8 g of juice.
So you could make 2 - 30ml with a little left over.
Or a 100ml at 12.5% concentration to use all 10 grams.
Just remember alcohol weighs 80%. So whatever the ml take 80% of that. So 30ml would be 24g total in the bottle. 50ml would be 40grams. Obviously 80g for 100ml.
The price per 100ml here in malaysia doesn't make sense, especially when most of it is iso. Rm1200++ which is about 300usd+
Frustrating. But remember, that money also goes to paying marketing costs, distribution, salaries and commissions for many people up and down the supply chain…
Perhaps ISO E Super helps this fragrance bloom into the beauty that it is - rather than being a perfumers cop out. It’s kind of like saying you don’t think the cost of the Empire State Building is fair (if it were selling) because it’s only made of cheap steel. 🧐
@@yadiyhadini8698
You can purchase from India.
Yea the level of expensive hoops a business has to jump through to make a product, get you to notice it, and get it to your part of the world is what you are paying for.
Aaron Terrence Hughes will give anecdotes of these sorts of headaches from time to time.