This channel is a real blessing and I mean that. There are a couple of other vintage computer / Electrical engineering channels that are not misleading have people like yourself who are passionate and have in depth knowledge to share. every time I watch one of your repair videos I generally learn something new and cannot wait for an opportunity to try to build on my skill sets. There is a tech you tube channel of a bloke in Queensland Australia who makes other Australians look bad he gets used computer parts and cleans PCB's with automotive brake cleaner a very harsh solvent which I have seen when I worked in the automotive industry melt rubber this guy sprays it all over dirty motherboards and alike he is another one who follows the trend of another particular youtube channel who is generally corporate sponsored given a plethora of new tech goodies in fact he acts like he has more cents than brains so to speak. But now the guy in Queensland uses a ultrasonic cleaner but still uses brake cleaner and then shows people who to flip the parts and make stupid mass profits while some poor end user will have a dead pc one day due to the brake cleaner damaging components that stuff even causes rust too on certain metals. You really do show us how to get valuable vintage hardware take care to restore them properly I really am glad your channel come up as a suggestion one day I never look back. Now that prototype board of yours after Christmas is over I think I will be investing in a couple of those do you also have a CPI/PCIE version/s yet?
When I wash boards I give them a quick shallow bath in isopropyl alcohol after washing with water. The alcohol is very good at removing the water and salts from under components and evaporates much quicker. Just remember to do this outside because the IPA fumes are strong and unpleasant.
I slap my fingers against the slots and memory sockets. Just a little bounce of the meat of your fingers over the open slot will shake a lot of surface tension loose and drip water everywhere. Then compressed air in the nooks and crannies, then dry for a day in a warm spot. Good to go!
I adopted your method of removing flux from a board by using alcohol with a toothbrush and then using the toothbrush with a paper towel to remove the residue (I use a clean cloth instead of paper towel and throw it in the wash when it gets too dirty). It is a very quick way to clean a board and looks like new afterwards!
Another rescued board. And obviously a rare one, too. Even the early 486 boards doesn´t had integrated IDE and floppy. Your high quality content pays off now, it seems. Congrats to more than 15000 subs!
This has a Siemens controller chip. So this most likely was an OEM board for a said name brand. Integrated controllers were not uncommon. But in the larger clone market, they were often too expensive.
Even some of the earliest Pentium boards didn't have integrated controllers. However, I once owned an IBM-branded 286 mainboard with both controllers integrated AND a pair of 72-pin SIMM slots (but NO onboard RAM). IIRC the board was dated 1986. So it was a weird one all around. Sorry I don't still have it.
@@Reziac The earliest ibm boards to use 72 pin ram was probably 1990 iirl. I know they put copyright dates of 1986 on many ps/2 mainboards, even later ones. The early 286 boards used cards which used pin arrays to plug in and were not like a normal 72pin simm.. I don't know how many pins they were though.
@@wishusknight3009 That's what I thought. But bloody hell, here was that IBM board, it was old and long retired when I got it (about 1994). and yes they were standard 72 pin SIMMs, I still have the SIMMs and they worked in a 486. It was probably used at JPL tho (judging by whose trash it was), so might have been a special model not found on the consumer market.
@@Reziac The model 30 was made for quite a few years and did change specification a couple of times. But I do think it was mostly relegated to business sales by the end of its run for its cheap price. It is possible that the last models used 72 pin simms and were only business class offerings. IBM tried to keep a modicum of standardization across the line.
Following your instructions I've restored an EFA 4DMU-HL3S board inside of a Solitaire arcade cabinet that had a leaky battery. I had no idea how to do any of this before I watched your video. Thank you very much!
wow.. very nostalgic for me..I remember that Ive been working on those types and similar motherboards and doing those repairs almost 30 yrs ago.. well Im still doing electronics and computer repairs but this does brings back memories.. thanks..
I agree, it's a "magical and satisfying moment" indeed. I have a board which I am struggling to repair which had battery damage, I will follow your advice on that. Great video as usual!!
Just an extra tip : when you put the board upright after cleaning it with water, make sure the chips are aligned VERTICALLY - due to the surface tension of water, water won't flow between the legs of chips so it can get trapped there. If the chips are aligned vertically, the water can escape from underneath the chip itself without pins or legs blocking the "escape route". If you have chips running in both direction, it may not be a bad idea to change orientation after a while. I also find that a hairdryer can help coax water from trapped pockets.
Tip for the future : Changing the power voltage can help read back flaky EPROMs, (some will need < 5V, some will need > 5V, depends on their internal circuits). It was not needed here, but if you ever have a bad one with content you can't find elsewhere this could come in handy.
I use the same method in washing the boards, except I use blue dawn dish soap. After rinsing with tap water, I give it a final rinse with distilled water and use compressed air for quicker drying. The distilled water helps get rid of impurities that tap water leaves behind for a spotless rinse.
Greeting from America's Gulf Coast! I've been watching for about four videos now, and am adding you to my subs list. This was a great troubleshooting path.
Ahhh... I already have the rubber tips for my Dremel tool , but coating the traces with the flux is the key! I didn't know that, but watching the solder chase the fluxed traces was undeniable, and something I'd literally never seen before. This is all very important to me, as I own a pair of the very rare 25Mhz Harris chip 286 boards w/ 16Mb direct-addressable memory (not EMS) [and w/ soldered battery - ugh!], so I'll probably have to make similar repairs when I try to restore them. Many thanks!
Thanks! Can't w8 for the upgrade :) been in computers for as long as I can remember but I started with a 486 sx/33!(later was my first major upgrade, with 9 chips of cache memory as well as going with the dx/33 CPU salvaged from a rummage sale.) I did have an XT but never took the time to learn programming as this seemed to be the only thing to do with these, until the flash card hard drives trick came about, which is exciting! now we can actually play some of those period games on ancient hardware! Cool BIOS trick on the network card too, looks like magic!
Thank you for showing this technique in such a detailed form. Your channel is excellent and is also very underrated. Thank you for your shared designs. I plan to produce some Dallas replacements for a couple of SGIs. Brilliant design 🙂
Nice video! You were very lucky you could read that BIOS chip even though it was flaky. The freezing with the CF card is the BIOS software interrupt routine for reading the fixed disk. They likely copied IBM's original routine from the 5170 too closely which will freeze up on drives that are too fast. I go over the problem here: ua-cam.com/video/qO3xrl0XR-4/v-deo.html It is fixable with disassembly and hex editing of that BIOS, but only if someone figured out the interrupt routine and is able to adjust the timing delay. Besides XTIDE, the other solution would be to use a newer 286 BIOS without the problem. You'd lose all those extra settings though, so it's certainly not ideal! Perhaps they copied the bytes directly from IBM so a little search and replace would work?
Thank you Adrian. Yeah, now where you say that, I remember your video with the IBM and that issue. Somehow I didn't think, that the same bits could be shared with the IBMs original code. I guess, I'll have to dig into that and try to disassemble the BIOS. Thanks for reminding me....
@@necro_ware I'm really bad with x86 disassembly. I bet if we can figure it out or at least find someone to help, then maybe the same fix can be applied to all Phoenix 286 BIOS chips? (Likely similar code with different offsets) Let me point Stewart who fixed the 5170 BIOS to your video and BIOS download. Maybe he can figure it out.
Hmm. this makes more sense than my comment I just made... I surmised it was the cf card being close at the 528mb limit. And it may not have the geometry handling. So a smaller CF might work. I have a 286 that behaves this way. It also uses a dedicated controller. But in this case i would guess you are on the money here.
Наконец то 286 :) П.С. Я мою платы Mr.Muskul зелёным, смываю, потом розовым, смываю. Далее феном без нагрева выдуваю всю воду, в конце горячим потоком сушу. Ставлю в сухое тёплое место на 1 день. Выглядит как новая.
Amazing restauration. I have a couple of 386 motherboards that need this kind of work. I'll reference your videos for sure. Great work, thanks for putting it out there.
Thanks for the amazing videos. It's nice to see the quality improvement on your videos and new techniques over time. All your videos are very satisfying and teach us a lot. Keep up the good work.
Fantastic video. I own a very similar 286 board with onboard IO controller and up to 4MB RAM support. I bought it faulty due to battery damage and repaired it. One of my favorite pieces of hardware.
I love your repair videos. Retro computing is something i want to get into as i gew up with these old PCs in the 90s. Yes, i could emulate, but i'd rather have a retro PC :)
Another great repair video :) 1) I need to be more methodical and patient when cleaning corrosion too. I love your result. 2) I usually use citric acid, this is the acid in lemon juice but in powder form. I make the solution as strong as I want. 3) This faulty ROM chips OMG, I will add this to my tests, thanks for the info!! 4) The two red caps are probably different as these are the only 16v ones (connected to +12v and -12v rails). I need to recheck some of my broken boards now :/
It's a work of love and also I took the way to repair, maybe helps to get mine working. Also it's interesting to see what can run with some add ons. I hope you build a pc of this too.
What a great video! I learn so much watching you tinker with these boards, so many tips and tricks. :) I've been binge-watching your channel for days now, absolutely love it. Please keep it up! :) I'd love to see you upgrade this board in the future as you hinted. Especially if it's possible to replace those horrible SIMM sockets, that'd be very educational to see. Best wishes from Sweden!
Memories. Had same board with 286/16. 5 Meg ram. A 60 Meg hard drive. Sound blaster and svga card that I do not remember. My little power house tower 7th grade till my junior year of high school.
When I'm in a hurry, usually I use an hairdryer with hot air. It's not enough hot to damage anything and it takes usually half of an hour to dry a board. However, beware at the water behind the ICs.
1. OK 2. Yes, it can be done indeed, but it's optional. If someone doesn't have a varnish, tinned traces (almost) don't oxidize, so it's another benefit of tinning. However if someone has exposed copper, then some varnish is really necessary.
@@a.lisnenko If you are worried about that, then you have to cover the whole board with varnish, because you have solder joints exposed all over the place :)
Normally after I have cleaned boards with tap water I would spray IPA to help dry and remove the limescale, This board reminds me of an old Opus machines that I worked on
Where I live, I have hard scaly watter, so I dry the board with isopropyl to absorb the water and evaporate it away quicker. And i will take my heat gun and dry the board that way with the temp turned down really low to get under the parts. I can dial it down to just a little over body temps so I dont melt anything.
I pull a lot of old hardware from e-waste and I can confirm that using soapy water is just fine on electronics. As long as you wash away all the soap you're good.
How about a Necroware XT-IDE BIOS board? What is the long socketed chip on the edge with the power connector? Another rare 286 board was made by Western Digital. In addition to the floppy, IDE, serial, and parallel ports it had "SEGA" or Super-EGA that could run up to 800x600 16 color, if you could find a TTL monitor capable of such scan rates. The very odd/maddening thing was that all of the built in peripherals could be disabled, except the video. So adding an ISA VGA card wasn't possible since it would use the same DMA and IRQ as the built in video. Thus I had to upgrade motherboards when I got a VGA card. My best 286 had 12 meg RAM with 512K onboard in DIP chips and the rest on three Micron 16bit ISA boards. They had EEPROM configuration so I set part of the first board to backfill the lower 640K and all the rest was split between XMS and EMS. IIRC this one also had a built in low level formatter for IDE drives. It could do a low level format on any drive up to the maximum size it supported. I used it to recover many "bad" hard drives that really just suffered from some weak sectors.
When I wash boards I use a final quick rinse with distilled water or rubbing alcohol. The water in my area is pretty hard so I just want to be as careful as possible.
For those who are afraid of the minerals of the water, you can also wash the pcbs with 99% isopropyl alcohol, wich also does the job quite nicelly. I've saved some boards from leaky caps doing that
This channel is a real blessing and I mean that. There are a couple of other vintage computer / Electrical engineering channels that are not misleading have people like yourself who are passionate and have in depth knowledge to share. every time I watch one of your repair videos I generally learn something new and cannot wait for an opportunity to try to build on my skill sets. There is a tech you tube channel of a bloke in Queensland Australia who makes other Australians look bad he gets used computer parts and cleans PCB's with automotive brake cleaner a very harsh solvent which I have seen when I worked in the automotive industry melt rubber this guy sprays it all over dirty motherboards and alike he is another one who follows the trend of another particular youtube channel who is generally corporate sponsored given a plethora of new tech goodies in fact he acts like he has more cents than brains so to speak. But now the guy in Queensland uses a ultrasonic cleaner but still uses brake cleaner and then shows people who to flip the parts and make stupid mass profits while some poor end user will have a dead pc one day due to the brake cleaner damaging components that stuff even causes rust too on certain metals. You really do show us how to get valuable vintage hardware take care to restore them properly I really am glad your channel come up as a suggestion one day I never look back. Now that prototype board of yours after Christmas is over I think I will be investing in a couple of those do you also have a CPI/PCIE version/s yet?
Thanks. No, I made only this one for ISA
What a cool vintage board, a beast for it's time. You took such good care of the restoration. This was a joy to watch
When I wash boards I give them a quick shallow bath in isopropyl alcohol after washing with water. The alcohol is very good at removing the water and salts from under components and evaporates much quicker. Just remember to do this outside because the IPA fumes are strong and unpleasant.
.....unless we want to reeeeeealy enjoy our hobby that is.
@@wishusknight3009 then you need to use a certain other solvent ;) IPA fumes only cause headaches..
@@ochykysh lol yup
Iso fumes are strong but I never found them to be too unpleasent (even for 70% Iso solutions)
I slap my fingers against the slots and memory sockets. Just a little bounce of the meat of your fingers over the open slot will shake a lot of surface tension loose and drip water everywhere. Then compressed air in the nooks and crannies, then dry for a day in a warm spot. Good to go!
That is incredible how well the damaged area comes back after cleaning and a polish with the dremel - all the traces crisp and visible again!
I adopted your method of removing flux from a board by using alcohol with a toothbrush and then using the toothbrush with a paper towel to remove the residue (I use a clean cloth instead of paper towel and throw it in the wash when it gets too dirty). It is a very quick way to clean a board and looks like new afterwards!
You are welcome.
I learned something new today. Thanks!
Another rescued board. And obviously a rare one, too. Even the early 486 boards doesn´t had integrated IDE and floppy. Your high quality content pays off now, it seems. Congrats to more than 15000 subs!
This has a Siemens controller chip. So this most likely was an OEM board for a said name brand. Integrated controllers were not uncommon. But in the larger clone market, they were often too expensive.
Even some of the earliest Pentium boards didn't have integrated controllers.
However, I once owned an IBM-branded 286 mainboard with both controllers integrated AND a pair of 72-pin SIMM slots (but NO onboard RAM). IIRC the board was dated 1986. So it was a weird one all around. Sorry I don't still have it.
@@Reziac The earliest ibm boards to use 72 pin ram was probably 1990 iirl. I know they put copyright dates of 1986 on many ps/2 mainboards, even later ones. The early 286 boards used cards which used pin arrays to plug in and were not like a normal 72pin simm.. I don't know how many pins they were though.
@@wishusknight3009 That's what I thought. But bloody hell, here was that IBM board, it was old and long retired when I got it (about 1994). and yes they were standard 72 pin SIMMs, I still have the SIMMs and they worked in a 486. It was probably used at JPL tho (judging by whose trash it was), so might have been a special model not found on the consumer market.
@@Reziac The model 30 was made for quite a few years and did change specification a couple of times. But I do think it was mostly relegated to business sales by the end of its run for its cheap price. It is possible that the last models used 72 pin simms and were only business class offerings. IBM tried to keep a modicum of standardization across the line.
My first PC was a 486 dx in October of 1992. 29 years ago. It’s mind blowing how the years past. It meant the world to me. A gift from my mom rip.
Yes, the times fly.... Sorry about your mom :( She obviously gave you some nice memories....
Following your instructions I've restored an EFA 4DMU-HL3S board inside of a Solitaire arcade cabinet that had a leaky battery. I had no idea how to do any of this before I watched your video. Thank you very much!
Step you missed. Lacquer or transparent nail varnish the exposed traces to prevent the solder traces from further corrosion via air.
The magical checking hole card is amazing
wow.. very nostalgic for me..I remember that Ive been working on those types and similar motherboards and doing those repairs almost 30 yrs ago.. well Im still doing electronics and computer repairs but this does brings back memories.. thanks..
love it takes me back to the beginning i still have a hoard in my basement
What a great Video, Thank you sir!!
You inspire me to start trying some old things to live again!!
I'm currently troubleshooting a 286 board, and this video is a goldmine of information. Excellent explanations and presentation. Love your work!
I agree, it's a "magical and satisfying moment" indeed. I have a board which I am struggling to repair which had battery damage, I will follow your advice on that. Great video as usual!!
Yes! Another repair video. My favorites!
They are so chill.
Wow, TH components!
This is really on the cusp of technology!
Making me want to have one...
Just an extra tip : when you put the board upright after cleaning it with water, make sure the chips are aligned VERTICALLY - due to the surface tension of water, water won't flow between the legs of chips so it can get trapped there. If the chips are aligned vertically, the water can escape from underneath the chip itself without pins or legs blocking the "escape route". If you have chips running in both direction, it may not be a bad idea to change orientation after a while. I also find that a hairdryer can help coax water from trapped pockets.
286 repairs are among of my favourites
Tip for the future : Changing the power voltage can help read back flaky EPROMs, (some will need < 5V, some will need > 5V, depends on their internal circuits). It was not needed here, but if you ever have a bad one with content you can't find elsewhere this could come in handy.
Die Essigessenz hat mich kalt erwischt. Mega Nostalgietrip. Bin zwar 87er Baujahr, durfte aber trotzdem noch mit solchen Systemen rumbasteln.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you.
I use the same method in washing the boards, except I use blue dawn dish soap. After rinsing with tap water, I give it a final rinse with distilled water and use compressed air for quicker drying. The distilled water helps get rid of impurities that tap water leaves behind for a spotless rinse.
Great job as usual! I discovered your channel a few days ago and can't get enough of it. Also thank you for helping preserve the retro hardware :)
Greeting from America's Gulf Coast! I've been watching for about four videos now, and am adding you to my subs list. This was a great troubleshooting path.
Ahhh... I already have the rubber tips for my Dremel tool , but coating the traces with the flux is the key! I didn't know that, but watching the solder chase the fluxed traces was undeniable, and something I'd literally never seen before.
This is all very important to me, as I own a pair of the very rare 25Mhz Harris chip 286 boards w/ 16Mb direct-addressable memory (not EMS) [and w/ soldered battery - ugh!], so I'll probably have to make similar repairs when I try to restore them.
Many thanks!
Hallelujah! Another board saved!
That tinning of the traces is a good idea!
I love the style of this board, so many chips unlike today's basically smooth motherboards
Thanks! Can't w8 for the upgrade :) been in computers for as long as I can remember but I started with a 486 sx/33!(later was my first major upgrade, with 9 chips of cache memory as well as going with the dx/33 CPU salvaged from a rummage sale.) I did have an XT but never took the time to learn programming as this seemed to be the only thing to do with these, until the flash card hard drives trick came about, which is exciting! now we can actually play some of those period games on ancient hardware! Cool BIOS trick on the network card too, looks like magic!
Thank you for showing this technique in such a detailed form. Your channel is excellent and is also very underrated. Thank you for your shared designs. I plan to produce some Dallas replacements for a couple of SGIs. Brilliant design 🙂
Recently found your channel and have been binge watching these repair vids! My favourite type of retro videos to watch.
Nice video! You were very lucky you could read that BIOS chip even though it was flaky.
The freezing with the CF card is the BIOS software interrupt routine for reading the fixed disk. They likely copied IBM's original routine from the 5170 too closely which will freeze up on drives that are too fast. I go over the problem here:
ua-cam.com/video/qO3xrl0XR-4/v-deo.html
It is fixable with disassembly and hex editing of that BIOS, but only if someone figured out the interrupt routine and is able to adjust the timing delay. Besides XTIDE, the other solution would be to use a newer 286 BIOS without the problem. You'd lose all those extra settings though, so it's certainly not ideal!
Perhaps they copied the bytes directly from IBM so a little search and replace would work?
Thank you Adrian. Yeah, now where you say that, I remember your video with the IBM and that issue. Somehow I didn't think, that the same bits could be shared with the IBMs original code. I guess, I'll have to dig into that and try to disassemble the BIOS. Thanks for reminding me....
@@necro_ware I'm really bad with x86 disassembly. I bet if we can figure it out or at least find someone to help, then maybe the same fix can be applied to all Phoenix 286 BIOS chips? (Likely similar code with different offsets) Let me point Stewart who fixed the 5170 BIOS to your video and BIOS download. Maybe he can figure it out.
Hmm. this makes more sense than my comment I just made... I surmised it was the cf card being close at the 528mb limit. And it may not have the geometry handling. So a smaller CF might work. I have a 286 that behaves this way. It also uses a dedicated controller. But in this case i would guess you are on the money here.
It should be possible to use IDA Free edition to help with the disassembly.
Seeing this brings back so many memories...
Love your channel. Brings back tons of memories.
Very nice BlackMagic with network card!
Good old days, good, old, days, 286 is what I can remember where I start from.
Really enjoy your videos thanks a bunch for them!!!
You aré so good and entertaining! And you brought back hapyness to this nice jewel of a mainboard!! Great work! Kudos!! 👍👍
15:25 YES, please make that short video about BIOS!
That's so cool how you repaired the traces with solder. It's almost like you painted them on!
Наконец то 286 :)
П.С. Я мою платы Mr.Muskul зелёным, смываю, потом розовым, смываю. Далее феном без нагрева выдуваю всю воду, в конце горячим потоком сушу. Ставлю в сухое тёплое место на 1 день. Выглядит как новая.
Ну да, принцип тот же. Я так уже точно несколько сотен плат отмыл
Logic board repair is something I wish i learned. I have tons of respect for you guys !!!!!!
Amazing restauration. I have a couple of 386 motherboards that need this kind of work. I'll reference your videos for sure. Great work, thanks for putting it out there.
Great video! Your channel is definitely one of my top discoveries of 2021. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the amazing videos. It's nice to see the quality improvement on your videos and new techniques over time.
All your videos are very satisfying and teach us a lot.
Keep up the good work.
One of the best videos about this topic, great work man!
Fantastic video. I own a very similar 286 board with onboard IO controller and up to 4MB RAM support. I bought it faulty due to battery damage and repaired it. One of my favorite pieces of hardware.
I love your repair videos.
Retro computing is something i want to get into as i gew up with these old PCs in the 90s.
Yes, i could emulate, but i'd rather have a retro PC :)
Another great repair video :)
1) I need to be more methodical and patient when cleaning corrosion too. I love your result.
2) I usually use citric acid, this is the acid in lemon juice but in powder form. I make the solution as strong as I want.
3) This faulty ROM chips OMG, I will add this to my tests, thanks for the info!!
4) The two red caps are probably different as these are the only 16v ones (connected to +12v and -12v rails).
I need to recheck some of my broken boards now :/
Thank you. And yes, you could be right about the 16V ;)
Awesome work👍
It's a work of love and also I took the way to repair, maybe helps to get mine working.
Also it's interesting to see what can run with some add ons. I hope you build a pc of this too.
What a great video! I learn so much watching you tinker with these boards, so many tips and tricks. :)
I've been binge-watching your channel for days now, absolutely love it. Please keep it up! :)
I'd love to see you upgrade this board in the future as you hinted. Especially if it's possible to replace those horrible SIMM sockets, that'd be very educational to see.
Best wishes from Sweden!
I always loved these 286, 386 boards, fascinating for that time period. i remember the vga card was 4mb.
On 286, 386 more like 256K or 512K. 4MB vga cards started to appear first with Pentium MMX :)
@@necro_ware must be as you say.. i could be wrong. cheers !
Your videos are so informative! I always learn a few more tricks!
wonderful video, thank you
Nice repair once more!
You are the reason i love retro hardware. Love your videos keep up the great work !
Enjoyed the Video, always pleasure to see you fix stuff :) Please put a 287 FPU to Upgrade it!
Your videos are awesome!
Love what you do, love to fix things and you are an artist.
Keep up the good work!
I'm new to the channel and dang this is amazing. I approve of using Commander Keen as a testing program. Grats on getting this working!
You are such a nerd !!! good work .. Keep it up... Brought me back all the nostalgia !!!!
Always a good watch. look forward to the next one.
it's always cool to see old tech like this
Beautiful repair good sir!
Very nice! Congratulations for this fascinating video!
Yes, It would be a pleasure if you make a video about why some boards have two bios chips! Great content, as usual. Thumbs up for the repair video!
Memories. Had same board with 286/16. 5 Meg ram. A 60 Meg hard drive. Sound blaster and svga card that I do not remember. My little power house tower 7th grade till my junior year of high school.
Another cool phrase - "a warping number!"
Great repair. You could move the sticker from broken BIOS onto new one using hairdryer. It's just a detail but it just completes such repair.
Please make the video about the two BIOS chips
Never expected to see a bottle of surig here😂
Excellent video, many thanks!!
Amazing work 👍 I remember our first PC was a 286AT with a 40 MB Hardisk, 1 MB RAM and a 16 colour EGA graphics card 😊
Neat video! always like the trouble shoot process, keeps your brain sharp!
Much fun! Was like going back when I learned the IT-Game. Very nice video. Happy it was suggested. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the video sir. I was amaze and awe of your work. Love it
When I'm in a hurry, usually I use an hairdryer with hot air. It's not enough hot to damage anything and it takes usually half of an hour to dry a board. However, beware at the water behind the ICs.
1. Yes, we are interested in the video about two bioses.
2. Consider covering soldered traces with colored uv-hardened varnish for protection.
1. OK
2. Yes, it can be done indeed, but it's optional. If someone doesn't have a varnish, tinned traces (almost) don't oxidize, so it's another benefit of tinning. However if someone has exposed copper, then some varnish is really necessary.
@@necro_ware I also mean protection from shorts, accidental, from a fallen screw or a screwdriver or from other tools.
@@a.lisnenko If you are worried about that, then you have to cover the whole board with varnish, because you have solder joints exposed all over the place :)
Sir, Your work is amazing
This makes me want to get a damaged old board and fix it... :D Great presentation. Subbed.
Vote up, nice video clip, thank you for sharing it with us :)
Great work 👌👏👏
Thank you for your sharing
I love your videos - I cannot wait until next. Great job like always. You are awesome. This is better as movie.
Ага, тоже себе собрал 286, раз в году включаю его, чтобы поностальгировать! Классная вещь.
the infamous death barrel, the destroyer of all boards
Normally after I have cleaned boards with tap water I would spray IPA to help dry and remove the limescale, This board reminds me of an old Opus machines that I worked on
Wow ... What.... I salute You, MASTER!
Great Video Like always, nice fix , i still wait for my TL866 II + but maybe next year come :-(
Indeed, onboard controllers for this type of CPU class motherboard was super rare, nice find! :-]
It was just a lot of luck for me, since this board is from the donation I got from a viewer and which I showed last week.
Thanks dude, I am always afraid to wash my parts, but I'll try it.
Where I live, I have hard scaly watter, so I dry the board with isopropyl to absorb the water and evaporate it away quicker. And i will take my heat gun and dry the board that way with the temp turned down really low to get under the parts. I can dial it down to just a little over body temps so I dont melt anything.
@@wishusknight3009 like me here. I heard about 50°C in the oven to dry it, but I'm scared, too
@@BreakingBrick The heat gun allows me to direct air to the places where water can be trapped.
@@wishusknight3009 Well, therefore I should own one, but I don't, obviously.
Wash your parts properly!!! 😉
Bitte mehr davon! Grad das mit der Korrosion unter der Tastaturbuchse fand ich sehr wichtig.
I pull a lot of old hardware from e-waste and I can confirm that using soapy water is just fine on electronics. As long as you wash away all the soap you're good.
How about a Necroware XT-IDE BIOS board? What is the long socketed chip on the edge with the power connector?
Another rare 286 board was made by Western Digital. In addition to the floppy, IDE, serial, and parallel ports it had "SEGA" or Super-EGA that could run up to 800x600 16 color, if you could find a TTL monitor capable of such scan rates. The very odd/maddening thing was that all of the built in peripherals could be disabled, except the video. So adding an ISA VGA card wasn't possible since it would use the same DMA and IRQ as the built in video. Thus I had to upgrade motherboards when I got a VGA card.
My best 286 had 12 meg RAM with 512K onboard in DIP chips and the rest on three Micron 16bit ISA boards. They had EEPROM configuration so I set part of the first board to backfill the lower 640K and all the rest was split between XMS and EMS. IIRC this one also had a built in low level formatter for IDE drives. It could do a low level format on any drive up to the maximum size it supported. I used it to recover many "bad" hard drives that really just suffered from some weak sectors.
What a good video with information that few share.I haven't learned so much from a video in a long time Very good thanks.
When I wash boards I use a final quick rinse with distilled water or rubbing alcohol. The water in my area is pretty hard so I just want to be as careful as possible.
Good repair!
For those who are afraid of the minerals of the water, you can also wash the pcbs with 99% isopropyl alcohol, wich also does the job quite nicelly.
I've saved some boards from leaky caps doing that
And for some reason you even get into the party mood doing that :D