There is absolutely no need to disassemble the whole frame in order to replace the carriage. First loosen the drive belt, slip off the belt from the existing carriage, then simply loosen the bottom roller screw till you can tilt it and the whole carriage will slip off of the rail.
@Andy..Correct….removing the bottom eccentric nut and bolt is how I did mine…took me literally a few minutes to get the old bracket/hot end off and a few more minutes to get new bracket on. If you learn one thing from this…this is definitely the more complicated route. Also, I did the wiring first. I found this easier to do without worrying about knocking the sprite extruder when tipping the printer over to do the wiring.
I was thinking about getting one of these and this video actually talked me out of it, lol. I wanted to make my E3V2 worth running (at .4 nozzle) again, and this hotend would go a long way towards that. I use it as my Chonky Boi printer now, 1mm nozzle, nothing but functional prints. I do anything that needs detail (and proper printing) with my SV06. But if you have to take it this far apart, I'm good on that. I've reached my tinker limit with Creality and will stick to better printers from here on and leave my E3V2 as my Chonkster printer.
I did go too far, on disassembly. If you read the comments, apparently you can just loosen the eccentric nut and don't have to take off the entire gantry. You'll still have to do all the wiring though.
If you use a heat gun on low and hold it away from the connectors the glue softens and comes right off, also if you read the instructions you would have seen about taking the old hot end off without taking the whole thing apart.
@@hamiltonfangirl1765 I used a fine soldering iron set to around 160 degrees C. Just rubbed it on the glue until it melted and pulled the connector off, took maybe two seconds for each connector if that. Just have to have enough heat to melt the glue and nothing else.
I always use isopropyl alcohol. You can either squish a little on top and then let it dry after, or just dip the tip of the tweezers or an x-acto knife and then let some drops flow on top of the glue. Sometimes wiggling the glue so the alcohol seeps in between the glue and the plastic helps. The alcohol breaks the glue bond, so no mechanical force needed and no mess or even any glue is left on the parts.
Why not just loosen the bottom eccentric nut and lift the entire old hot end assembly right off? Didn’t have to remove my gantry at all just off with old and on with the new.
As a point of safety, I would recommend you unplug the XT connector before working on the printer, as movement from the bed when it's being tilted, wobbled around, or just being moved in general whilst working on it can cause the motors to act as a generator an "back power" the board an could damage it. Ask me how I an others know. Also, why is the video mirrored?
Why does your printer look bass ackwords everything's the opposite. Is you're camera on mirror mode or something? Oh and also I replaced mine with out taking the z axis off. Just loosen a wheel and it goes right on
mine heats up and everything on it works, but my z is to high and it doesnt let me adjust after i updated the program on the creality site, it looks like the only thing you can do is turn off a setting in the programing, but installing it was very easy.
I bought a Sprite extruder setup, but received one without the hotend and fan. It's just the extruder setup and I didn't open it until long after I couldn't replace it anymore... so now I'm stuck with a part I can't use (right now). I would really like to print nylon and would really like to increase print speed significantly (without spending a ridiculous amount of money)... but I just don't know what to do. Should I buy the parts to finish the Sprite? ...or should I just go with something entirely different? Have been looking at the Spider Pro, but I'm not sure what else I need exactly. One video stated that the standard OEM direct extruder won't line up with it... and also, it will be a heavier hotend setup than I want (and the Sprite extruder apparently won't work with it at all). Have done a ton of reading, but still haven't gotten anywhere on making a decision or even really just being able to make a decision, because I only have one printer and do NOT want to end up missing a needed part or needing to print a part to finish installing it when my printer is already disassembled. That is frustrating! If anyone has any ideas, I'd definitely appreciate hearing them. I also don't have a lot of money, so that really makes things a lot more difficult too.
I recorded this on my cell phone facing me so I could see where I fit in the frame. (Rookie mistake) Selfie mode automatically is mirrored. When editing, I mirrored some of the frames back that had text in it.
Hi. Thank you for your time and all information on the video. It's very helpful. Would you or someone over here know why the printer wont store settings anymore after doing this upgrade in my case? I've installed successfully the sprite pro kit on my ender 3 pro with cr touch, dual-z rod and motor. 4.2.7 board. but, when i power cycle the printer, it loses all the settings, including the z-offset.
The same is happening to me. Seems to be intermittent. Ender 3, sprite pro + cr touch 4.2.2 mb Sometimes eeprom is fine, after a print though if you power cycle back to chinese and all preset stores data is reset. After i have to reinit and redo z-offsets ects. Also has a GD ret6 101. If anyone is willing to build a marlin firmware for me please let me know.
I recorded on my cell phone, and didn't catch it until some things displayed with words. I've invested in an actual camera if I make any more tutorials
My Ender 3 Max doesn’t work, I’ve added all the cables in and I get a E1 PRINTER HELTED, I followed the instructions and UA-cam video. Does anyone know what to do ?
I just got one of these for my ender 3 pro and was going to do the install but saw that people were having issues with the bracket causing the extruder to stop too early and end up losing print space on the bed. I have a bltouch that I'll be moving to it and was wonder if you have run into any issues with the bed size or anything?
I haven't tried printing anything large yet, but for the X axis, my purge line is right on the edge as usual. I also don't have an ABL on this, so that may affect it by a bit. For the Y axis, I have noticed because of my glass bed that the binder clips got hit a few times by the fan. I'm going to be being a magnetic PEI sheet soon to eliminate that issue.
I've seen this issue as well, an had that problem on mine. What a lot of people have done, an I have, is to grind the carriage just enough. The problem is that the right nut on the carriage crashes into the right side gantry plate. Just a few mm's grinding took care of it.
Hello I just got one and put it on my ender 3 pro and it is not working that good it keeps on trying to go all the way throw the bed is there some way to change the settings to stop that i am really new at 3d printing been at it for 3 weeks is there some where I can get all the settings for ender 3 pro and i have marlin 4.1.2 firmware
Something is very wrong with this kit. Everything, even the text on the box is backwards. Did it come like that or did you record in a mirror? Even the Ender 3 looks odd with the barcode sticker on the Right. Very unprofessional kit and printer or extremely unprofessional recording. Don't give up your day job.
Did you watch 20 seconds and make this comment? Obviously, the video is mirrored. Somehow you took more time out of your day to write this asinine comment, then you did to watch the video and use the sponge in your head.
There is absolutely no need to disassemble the whole frame in order to replace the carriage. First loosen the drive belt, slip off the belt from the existing carriage, then simply loosen the bottom roller screw till you can tilt it and the whole carriage will slip off of the rail.
@Andy..Correct….removing the bottom eccentric nut and bolt is how I did mine…took me literally a few minutes to get the old bracket/hot end off and a few more minutes to get new bracket on. If you learn one thing from this…this is definitely the more complicated route. Also, I did the wiring first. I found this easier to do without worrying about knocking the sprite extruder when tipping the printer over to do the wiring.
Great notes, thanks!
I was thinking about getting one of these and this video actually talked me out of it, lol. I wanted to make my E3V2 worth running (at .4 nozzle) again, and this hotend would go a long way towards that. I use it as my Chonky Boi printer now, 1mm nozzle, nothing but functional prints. I do anything that needs detail (and proper printing) with my SV06.
But if you have to take it this far apart, I'm good on that. I've reached my tinker limit with Creality and will stick to better printers from here on and leave my E3V2 as my Chonkster printer.
I did go too far, on disassembly. If you read the comments, apparently you can just loosen the eccentric nut and don't have to take off the entire gantry.
You'll still have to do all the wiring though.
If you use a heat gun on low and hold it away from the connectors the glue softens and comes right off, also if you read the instructions you would have seen about taking the old hot end off without taking the whole thing apart.
Will a hair dryer work? I don’t have a heat gun.
@@hamiltonfangirl1765 I used a fine soldering iron set to around 160 degrees C. Just rubbed it on the glue until it melted and pulled the connector off, took maybe two seconds for each connector if that. Just have to have enough heat to melt the glue and nothing else.
I always use isopropyl alcohol. You can either squish a little on top and then let it dry after, or just dip the tip of the tweezers or an x-acto knife and then let some drops flow on top of the glue. Sometimes wiggling the glue so the alcohol seeps in between the glue and the plastic helps.
The alcohol breaks the glue bond, so no mechanical force needed and no mess or even any glue is left on the parts.
Why not just loosen the bottom eccentric nut and lift the entire old hot end assembly right off? Didn’t have to remove my gantry at all just off with old and on with the new.
Well...because I didn't think of it. This seems like a much better option.
As a point of safety, I would recommend you unplug the XT connector before working on the printer, as movement from the bed when it's being tilted, wobbled around, or just being moved in general whilst working on it can cause the motors to act as a generator an "back power" the board an could damage it. Ask me how I an others know.
Also, why is the video mirrored?
Why does your printer look bass ackwords everything's the opposite. Is you're camera on mirror mode or something? Oh and also I replaced mine with out taking the z axis off. Just loosen a wheel and it goes right on
mine heats up and everything on it works, but my z is to high and it doesnt let me adjust after i updated the program on the creality site, it looks like the only thing you can do is turn off a setting in the programing, but installing it was very easy.
Have you tried adjusting your z limit switch?
The same solution??
I bought a Sprite extruder setup, but received one without the hotend and fan. It's just the extruder setup and I didn't open it until long after I couldn't replace it anymore... so now I'm stuck with a part I can't use (right now). I would really like to print nylon and would really like to increase print speed significantly (without spending a ridiculous amount of money)... but I just don't know what to do. Should I buy the parts to finish the Sprite? ...or should I just go with something entirely different? Have been looking at the Spider Pro, but I'm not sure what else I need exactly. One video stated that the standard OEM direct extruder won't line up with it... and also, it will be a heavier hotend setup than I want (and the Sprite extruder apparently won't work with it at all). Have done a ton of reading, but still haven't gotten anywhere on making a decision or even really just being able to make a decision, because I only have one printer and do NOT want to end up missing a needed part or needing to print a part to finish installing it when my printer is already disassembled. That is frustrating! If anyone has any ideas, I'd definitely appreciate hearing them. I also don't have a lot of money, so that really makes things a lot more difficult too.
Why would you mirror the video? (Honest question)
I recorded this on my cell phone facing me so I could see where I fit in the frame. (Rookie mistake) Selfie mode automatically is mirrored. When editing, I mirrored some of the frames back that had text in it.
@@3dhack622 alright, not on purpose is a plus.
Hi. Thank you for your time and all information on the video. It's very helpful. Would you or someone over here know why the printer wont store settings anymore after doing this upgrade in my case? I've installed successfully the sprite pro kit on my ender 3 pro with cr touch, dual-z rod and motor. 4.2.7 board. but, when i power cycle the printer, it loses all the settings, including the z-offset.
I dont want to insult your intelligence, but are you clicking the "store settings" choice after you change settings?
tryed to click store settings with different sd cards on it or without any. Sometimes it stays stored, sometimes it doesn't.@@3dhack622
The same is happening to me. Seems to be intermittent.
Ender 3, sprite pro + cr touch 4.2.2 mb
Sometimes eeprom is fine, after a print though if you power cycle back to chinese and all preset stores data is reset. After i have to reinit and redo z-offsets ects.
Also has a GD ret6 101.
If anyone is willing to build a marlin firmware for me please let me know.
How come the video is mirrored?
I recorded on my cell phone, and didn't catch it until some things displayed with words. I've invested in an actual camera if I make any more tutorials
My Ender 3 Max doesn’t work, I’ve added all the cables in and I get a E1 PRINTER HELTED, I followed the instructions and UA-cam video. Does anyone know what to do ?
Do I need to use a 32-bit board (4.2.2 or 4.2.7) to operate this direct drive system?
I just got one of these for my ender 3 pro and was going to do the install but saw that people were having issues with the bracket causing the extruder to stop too early and end up losing print space on the bed. I have a bltouch that I'll be moving to it and was wonder if you have run into any issues with the bed size or anything?
I haven't tried printing anything large yet, but for the X axis, my purge line is right on the edge as usual. I also don't have an ABL on this, so that may affect it by a bit.
For the Y axis, I have noticed because of my glass bed that the binder clips got hit a few times by the fan. I'm going to be being a magnetic PEI sheet soon to eliminate that issue.
I've seen this issue as well, an had that problem on mine. What a lot of people have done, an I have, is to grind the carriage just enough. The problem is that the right nut on the carriage crashes into the right side gantry plate. Just a few mm's grinding took care of it.
Still working well? Any issues? Thinking of upgrading.
Still works well! Running prints reliably.
There appears to be an extra plug that the instructions don't say what they go to, do you happen to know?
i thought that kit was not compatiable with the ender 3 pro...
Retraction settings seem to be too high. What is a good starting point everyone has so far?
1.0 is perfect for me
I think I have all my wires done correctly but my screen isn't turning on... its only staying blue... any ideas
You might be able to reinstall the firmware.
The mirrored image and poor camera work make this hard to watch. Blurry video sucks.
Hello I just got one and put it on my ender 3 pro and it is not working that good it keeps on trying to go all the way throw the bed is there some way to change the settings to stop that i am really new at 3d printing been at it for 3 weeks is there some where I can get all the settings for ender 3 pro and i have marlin 4.1.2 firmware
Have you tried adjusting the z-limit switch? If it's trying to go down through the bed it's may be because it's not hitting to stop switch.
lol dude...did you rub that box on Gavin Newsom's hair before filming?
Z axis dont work, need help
@charli384 What about it doesn't work, is it moving but not stopping where you need it to?
424 estep setting?
Your extruder steps should be around 424. Default settings for Ender 3 series is 93.0, I believe.
Парень, ты плохо подготовился к замене хотенда :) зачем откручивать верхнюю балку когда достаточно открутить ролик каретки?
I think you went thru way too much disassembly when you can easily remove all the parts without taking the gantry apart…
Good video otherwise…
Wholeheartedly agree to the disassemble overkill. Thanks!
Something is very wrong with this kit. Everything, even the text on the box is backwards. Did it come like that or did you record in a mirror? Even the Ender 3 looks odd with the barcode sticker on the Right. Very unprofessional kit and printer or extremely unprofessional recording. Don't give up your day job.
I have no idea why this reversed on export...that is extremely odd. 😑
I'll be sure to double check my videos before posting them, thanks for the feedback
Did you watch 20 seconds and make this comment? Obviously, the video is mirrored. Somehow you took more time out of your day to write this asinine comment, then you did to watch the video and use the sponge in your head.
@@totes3925 👍 Actually that is NOT my thumb but my middle finger. BAM!