My first gouge was a parabolic flute from a pretty decent premium tool store in North America and for a decent price as well. But, the flute was ridiculously short. I am not in a hurry to get rid of my sharpening jig because they make my job easier with paralyzed hands. But that's the one gouge I still have to freehand sharpen now that there's no length lift to attach a jig. And I didn't grind away a lot of steel, probably such an inexpensive c tool because you don't get much to start with. But my point was that I'm really glad to see the length of flute on the gouges you will be offering.
Excellent video! As a very new woodturner I don’t know a whole lot but I have been using the asymmetric grind for my gouges and it works really great. I also really appreciate the freehand sharpening tutorials. Thank you!
If nothing else, these gouges seem to be causing the UK tool manufacturers to alter their weird stance on naming bowl gouge sizes, and for that I commend you. If the rod diameter is 3/4 in, then it is a 3/4 in bowl gouge! Current UK nomenclature involves not the rod diameter, not even the flute width, but the distance from the outside edge to the opposite inside flute edge. Crazy!
Tomislav nice tools and I’d like to try the asymmetrical grind, however my attempts at freehand sharpening have been disappointing at best. I go through the time consuming method of using a Wolverine system and get good, if not fast, results. So my question is can you provide instructions for sharpening the asymmetrical grind using the Wolverine system if I chose that option? Thanks. Cheers, Tom
A symetric fingernail was grinded at 40 degrees, but what about the lower part of the bevel? I use to pro edge grinder with jigs. And i would like to get this grind since you mentioned its easier to get around the corner. Hopefully you can help me out. Br Dennis
More clear information, and a glimpse into exciting things ahead. A few questions occurred to me while I was watching. So these will be M42, but it cryogenic like the refiner? I would be really interested in a more in depth discussion between the two sizes and grinds, the benefits and trade offs between the two, and especially the when and why you chose to use one over the other (project, wood, I’m sure other things that didn’t occur to me, etc.). It’s pretty clear that at your level of proficiency (mastery ;) ) you could probably make just about any tool work. (As an aside, I recall my Grandfather, who was a joiner, and finished his career as woodworking teacher, talking about sharp tools being needed for students, and then off handedly commenting “of course, I could do it with a screwdriver if needed!”). In this video you seemed to use the two different tools interchangeably. Could you also just add at some point the length of the steel and more importantly the flute. I’ve noticed that there is a wide variation and some budget tools seem to have shorter flutes which could actually make them more expensive based on the useable amount of tool. Finally, I’m wondering about replicating this grind using a jig. I appreciate that the professional turners all seem to sharpen by hand and have developed the experience and muscle memory to do a great job. And that fractional degree accuracy isn’t needed in this application anyway. If nothing else perhaps a few good close in and slow closeups would give people like me a chance to really study and understand where you end up. Thanks again for all you share and no rush or expectations on my part. I’ll be following along anyway.
Excellent video, Tomi 👍 Looks like I'll be spending more with you 😉 😄 But decisions need to be made on the grinds!!?? I like the idea of trying the asymmetric grind, but i use jigs to sharpen on my Pro Edge, so i'm sure i wouldn't be able to replicate the grind again!!??
I too use a ProEdge aI think it might be possible to duplicate the asymmetric grind using the PE jig. Using the multi hole fixture grind the left side using the second or third hole and the right using the first hole or some combination of these. Then blending as usual. I haven’t tried this but plan to using a gouge I have. May take some futzing around but I think some combination of the grind options available with the PE will get the asymmetrical grind or close to it. Ed
Onward and upward....I wish you great success.
My first gouge was a parabolic flute from a pretty decent premium tool store in North America and for a decent price as well. But, the flute was ridiculously short. I am not in a hurry to get rid of my sharpening jig because they make my job easier with paralyzed hands. But that's the one gouge I still have to freehand sharpen now that there's no length lift to attach a jig. And I didn't grind away a lot of steel, probably such an inexpensive c
tool because you don't get much to start with. But my point was that I'm really glad to see the length of flute on the gouges you will be offering.
Beautiful tools and beautifully used as always! What a pleasure to watch! Thanks!
They look good.
Crown produce very good tools widely available, I have been using this grind for years easy and very repeatable using a Tormek SVD- 186 on a grinder .
The clarity of the video and lighting greatly improve the understanding of your tools and techniques
Thanks Tomi!
Excellent video! As a very new woodturner I don’t know a whole lot but I have been using the asymmetric grind for my gouges and it works really great. I also really appreciate the freehand sharpening tutorials. Thank you!
Beautiful tools and very instructive as always. Thanks!
This is great news. Looking forward to getting one.
If nothing else, these gouges seem to be causing the UK tool manufacturers to alter their weird stance on naming bowl gouge sizes, and for that I commend you. If the rod diameter is 3/4 in, then it is a 3/4 in bowl gouge! Current UK nomenclature involves not the rod diameter, not even the flute width, but the distance from the outside edge to the opposite inside flute edge. Crazy!
Nice. Hopefully you will have time to make all of these tools as you have a lot of supporters.
🕶thanks Tomislav
Great stuff Tomi, hopefully you can find a Refiner stahed somewhere , looks like I missed out on the first couple shipments 😅
I'm glad we can now pay for your tools using PayPal. Eagerly awaiting my refiner!
Tomislav nice tools and I’d like to try the asymmetrical grind, however my attempts at freehand sharpening have been disappointing at best. I go through the time consuming method of using a Wolverine system and get good, if not fast, results. So my question is can you provide instructions for sharpening the asymmetrical grind using the Wolverine system if I chose that option? Thanks. Cheers, Tom
A symetric fingernail was grinded at 40 degrees, but what about the lower part of the bevel? I use to pro edge grinder with jigs. And i would like to get this grind since you mentioned its easier to get around the corner.
Hopefully you can help me out.
Br Dennis
More clear information, and a glimpse into exciting things ahead. A few questions occurred to me while I was watching. So these will be M42, but it cryogenic like the refiner? I would be really interested in a more in depth discussion between the two sizes and grinds, the benefits and trade offs between the two, and especially the when and why you chose to use one over the other (project, wood, I’m sure other things that didn’t occur to me, etc.). It’s pretty clear that at your level of proficiency (mastery ;) ) you could probably make just about any tool work. (As an aside, I recall my Grandfather, who was a joiner, and finished his career as woodworking teacher, talking about sharp tools being needed for students, and then off handedly commenting “of course, I could do it with a screwdriver if needed!”). In this video you seemed to use the two different tools interchangeably.
Could you also just add at some point the length of the steel and more importantly the flute. I’ve noticed that there is a wide variation and some budget tools seem to have shorter flutes which could actually make them more expensive based on the useable amount of tool.
Finally, I’m wondering about replicating this grind using a jig. I appreciate that the professional turners all seem to sharpen by hand and have developed the experience and muscle memory to do a great job. And that fractional degree accuracy isn’t needed in this application anyway. If nothing else perhaps a few good close in and slow closeups would give people like me a chance to really study and understand where you end up.
Thanks again for all you share and no rush or expectations on my part. I’ll be following along anyway.
Not gonna lie, I jumped more than a little when the grinding portion sped up to 5X. 😂
Excellent video, Tomi 👍
Looks like I'll be spending more with you 😉 😄
But decisions need to be made on the grinds!!?? I like the idea of trying the asymmetric grind, but i use jigs to sharpen on my Pro Edge, so i'm sure i wouldn't be able to replicate the grind again!!??
I too use a ProEdge aI think it might be possible to duplicate the asymmetric grind using the PE jig. Using the multi hole fixture grind the left side using the second or third hole and the right using the first hole or some combination of these. Then blending as usual. I haven’t tried this but plan to using a gouge
I have. May take some futzing around but I think some combination of the grind options available with the PE will get the asymmetrical grind or close to it.
Ed
@edsims3885 thanks for that, it's an interesting idea, and worth a try 😉 👍
Let me know how you get on 👌
Take care of your fingers Tomislav
I am from sri lanka and i need to buy a tool, how can i get it?