Watching this at around 13:00 minutes reminded me of the day my uncle (The Captain) TOLD me to add an I-Beam Jack to the list of items to go on the boat.... They are long and thin. We hung it on a wall in the engine room.... We used it twice. Worth it's weight in gold both times... and I-Beam Jack not only pushes like a regular jack but it also can pull like a winch... Never leave port without one again (In a vessel over 30 feet).
Nice work. You might consider next time removing the rotted plywood by using an allen wrench with an edge ground on the tip and filling the void with epoxy/microfiber mix. Also a good idea to caulk the chain plates after the rig is tuned and ideally sailed a bit to load up the chainplates and put them in their final position. Do yourself a favor and use blue (preferred) or green loctite on any stainless fastener threads to avoid galling or self swaging. Clean the chainplates with alcohol, acetone or similar to remove any wax that may be on them from the polishing. You want a good bond to the plate itself to keep water out.
Nick, good video. Pretty good design by Morgan to have the chain plates so accessible. I've pulled a couple of mine too (same boat). One thing I did that you might want to consider or maybe its been done (could not see in the vid), is to chip out the balsa core around the actual chain plate deck-holes and fill with thickened epoxy so if they leak in the future there is no more impact to the core. Morgan did not do that during construction for any deck penetrations from what I have seen. If you make the epoxy peanut butter thick, you can pack the oversize hole and then use your pinky and popsickle stick to reopen and shape the chain plate opening so you don't have to recut the hole once it hardens. Same idea as what you did in this video with the cover plate screw holes. I've been chasing leaks since owning my 44. Hows your hull/deck joint - leaky? I had to cut off the outer/bottom hullside portion of the teak toerail cover, 5200 the entire hull/deck joint and put the teak back. Much drier inside now..... Sent a couple pics of mine to your crew@satori email.
It looks like your turnbuckles need some love or at least a very close inspection for fractures or cracks. It may even be time to replace all standing rigging. Cheers.
... Suggestion: Chop up some fiberglass cloth into little itty bitty bits and mix it into the putty ... then add the hardner. It will add some strength to the putty plug so it doesn't crack after hardening or drilling ...
... Now that I watched the video to the end ... 1) the lowwer chainplates most likely developed a slight bend over time due to the loading ... they were most likely straight origonally. You would think that SS that thick wouldn't bend ... but w/ loads that are even below 50%, they will cause bending, but it takes time. 2) What the rigger was explaining was "S" curving the mast. I believe the upper shrouds on your rig are also in effect the "spreader wires" that when loaded prevent the mast from going "out of column"... "S" curving. Now w/ a rotating mast (like on a catamaran) the spreaders are completely seperate from the shrouds are basically internal to the mast being attached top and bottom to only the mast and passing over the mast spreaders. So, you generally don't have the "S" curving issue unless a spreader wire fails and then the mast usually fails/bends/,snaps ... basically a expensive bad day. If a shroud fails the mast tends to lay over to the side ... still a bad day ... just not as bad, just a mess to clean up, a shroud to replace and a mast to re-step ... still a very brief but exciting event!!! (I have the "merit badges" for both events!!!) I can tell your engineering education ... it shows on how you approach solving problems ...
You mentioned high density foam used for a previous deck repair. Was InjectaDeck used? If so how has it held up and for how long? I’ve been considering it myself.
Nice work and great video ! Towards the end of the video, were the larger chain plates completely rebuilt or were the old ones just cleaned and polished? Did you inspect all of the pins for stress cracks or did you replace them with new?
I Enjoyed the adventures of the king, I know he has his own channel, still it was nice to see him included with your post but you guys are nice too so keep sailing hope one day I will see you out there or come to the boat show in MD in October, anyway stay safe
If that is epoxy based putty, wear protection because once you become sensitized to it , it is bad news. Some can't be around epoxy ever again including going into boat cabins.
If your chain plates were made out of hot dipped galvanized this wouldn't of happened. Among the commercial sailors there is an old saying. " stainless is half as good as it looks and galvanized is twice as good as it looks "
Through deck chainplates are the work of the devil They're impossible to seal properly and the risk of crevice corrosilon is very high, Attaching them to wooden bulkheads is the second worst sin. The chainplates should be made as plates ( in a T shape)attached to the deck by through bolts to underdeck plates that are themselvesconnectecd to strong points on the hull. Not bulkheads....
Watching this at around 13:00 minutes reminded me of the day my uncle (The Captain) TOLD me to add an I-Beam Jack to the list of items to go on the boat.... They are long and thin. We hung it on a wall in the engine room.... We used it twice. Worth it's weight in gold both times... and I-Beam Jack not only pushes like a regular jack but it also can pull like a winch... Never leave port without one again (In a vessel over 30 feet).
Love watching Nick work, don't we?!
Nice work. You might consider next time removing the rotted plywood by using an allen wrench with an edge ground on the tip and filling the void with epoxy/microfiber mix. Also a good idea to caulk the chain plates after the rig is tuned and ideally sailed a bit to load up the chainplates and put them in their final position. Do yourself a favor and use blue (preferred) or green loctite on any stainless fastener threads to avoid galling or self swaging. Clean the chainplates with alcohol, acetone or similar to remove any wax that may be on them from the polishing. You want a good bond to the plate itself to keep water out.
next time use ziplock baggie and then cut corner and squeze out like cake frosting fill holes bottom to top done deal.
Now ,forge a set of steak knives and a cleaver out of the old chain plates.
Arthur approves!!
Nick: "Seems like a lot of work for a simple task."
Me: That's every boat job I've ever done : )
Nick, good video. Pretty good design by Morgan to have the chain plates so accessible. I've pulled a couple of mine too (same boat). One thing I did that you might want to consider or maybe its been done (could not see in the vid), is to chip out the balsa core around the actual chain plate deck-holes and fill with thickened epoxy so if they leak in the future there is no more impact to the core. Morgan did not do that during construction for any deck penetrations from what I have seen. If you make the epoxy peanut butter thick, you can pack the oversize hole and then use your pinky and popsickle stick to reopen and shape the chain plate opening so you don't have to recut the hole once it hardens. Same idea as what you did in this video with the cover plate screw holes. I've been chasing leaks since owning my 44. Hows your hull/deck joint - leaky? I had to cut off the outer/bottom hullside portion of the teak toerail cover, 5200 the entire hull/deck joint and put the teak back. Much drier inside now..... Sent a couple pics of mine to your crew@satori email.
It looks like your turnbuckles need some love or at least a very close inspection for fractures or cracks. It may even be time to replace all standing rigging. Cheers.
You guys are great!
Nice job on the chain plate repair.
@1:59 the holes where the chainplate were looks so happy. : D
The new chain plates adds “boat bling”.
... Suggestion: Chop up some fiberglass cloth into little itty bitty bits and mix it into the putty ... then add the hardner. It will add some strength to the putty plug so it doesn't crack after hardening or drilling ...
Like your Capt. Tony’s cup 😂.
Nice job, $$$$$$$$ !!! Cheers, Richard
⛵ Lots of work but it will be worth it. Safe sailing.
At least you have work music. Kelly The Director: "Rack Up the Work Montage." And , Roll the work montage. Sound it. Take It.
What a nerve racking job Nick,I don’t envy you.Kelly,I got the feeling your work music wasn’t really appreciated 🙂
... Now that I watched the video to the end ... 1) the lowwer chainplates most likely developed a slight bend over time due to the loading ... they were most likely straight origonally. You would think that SS that thick wouldn't bend ... but w/ loads that are even below 50%, they will cause bending, but it takes time. 2) What the rigger was explaining was "S" curving the mast. I believe the upper shrouds on your rig are also in effect the "spreader wires" that when loaded prevent the mast from going "out of column"... "S" curving. Now w/ a rotating mast (like on a catamaran) the spreaders are completely seperate from the shrouds are basically internal to the mast being attached top and bottom to only the mast and passing over the mast spreaders. So, you generally don't have the "S" curving issue unless a spreader wire fails and then the mast usually fails/bends/,snaps ... basically a expensive bad day. If a shroud fails the mast tends to lay over to the side ... still a bad day ... just not as bad, just a mess to clean up, a shroud to replace and a mast to re-step ... still a very brief but exciting event!!! (I have the "merit badges" for both events!!!)
I can tell your engineering education ... it shows on how you approach solving problems ...
Good job both. Good practice is to use a spanner on the bottle screw though and not a screwdriver, prevents damaging it.
Another job bites the dust!!!!
You mentioned high density foam used for a previous deck repair. Was InjectaDeck used? If so how has it held up and for how long? I’ve been considering it myself.
Nice work and great video ! Towards the end of the video, were the larger chain plates completely rebuilt or were the old ones just cleaned and polished? Did you inspect all of the pins for stress cracks or did you replace them with new?
I dub thee Sir Nick ... wielder of the royal chainplates .
put your halyard on the sides to support the mast. main on one side and spinicer on the other
Are the new chainplates made of Valaryian steel?
Did they passivate your new chainplates after they fabricated new ones? Or just manual polish
Should not have let it get that far ! Have another Margarita
How about a bit of lube on the stainless steel threads .gauling is a problem with stainless steel ..
Aurther said hurry up nave .there are some poodles waiting on St Bart's and they have better weed. he's got plane.
Nice job ⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵
Awasome
instead of bending that rod by tightening you can simply use a spacer will make a lot difference, it will reduce the stress a lot
Is there something a plate strip of G10 on the bottom to hold the epoxy from sinking thru the hole?
We always wire and rubber amalgam tape our turnbucklesid rubber tape those chai plates so the salt water can’t get in there so easily
Did I miss the part where the covers were sealed with butyl?
@matthew curtis @bill bergquist Me too
Got chain plate?
no caulk?
I hope U2 r good haven't talked to u n awhile
I n hope his majesty is well
Jack from the be Big Easy
Thank goodness for King Arthur....you guys need the supervision ..:)))))
YEAH!...😁😜
7:00 LOL🤣🤣
Y’all make a great TEAM.. plus The king is always watching over y’all two.. glad y’all made it back to FTM...
👍👍👍
I Enjoyed the adventures of the king, I know he has his own channel, still it was nice to see him included with your post but you guys are nice too so keep sailing hope one day I will see you out there or come to the boat show in MD in October, anyway stay safe
Kelly how much does Arthur weigh?
If that is epoxy based putty, wear protection because once you become sensitized to it , it is bad news. Some can't be around epoxy ever again including going into boat cabins.
I think it’s actually polyester based. I just used epoxy as a general term, not really knowing the difference at the time.
The Old Sailing to Work ratio for every one minute sailing you Work on the boat for 3 hours. 1:180
“Buy a sailboat” they said, “it’ll be fun” they said. 😖
What type of boat is that she’s a beauty
Shes a Morgan i think. I dont remember her length or year though.
If your chain plates were made out of hot dipped galvanized this wouldn't of happened. Among the commercial sailors there is an old saying.
" stainless is half as good as it looks and galvanized is twice as good as it looks "
I don't mind the noise.
The shiny chainplate offering to King Arthur almost made me spill beer over my laptop.
I think King Arthur peed on it. 🤔
You did all that great work but at the end you tight the screws without any sealing paste between the metal and the deck?!?!
No... I did not tighten all the screws down. Sealant will be applied once the rig is re-assembled and tensioned properly.
@@SailingSatori then... super nice!!
Too bad ballerina lady gets sick when the boat sails, we feel bad with her. So, no can do.
But but..i know im 4 years late but if the angle was wrong...change the angel
That looks like car bog not epoxy
I think it’s actually polyester based. I just used epoxy as a general term, not really knowing the difference at the time.
He sees new chain plate. She sees dirty window.
Can you say WD40
Through deck chainplates are the work of the devil They're impossible to seal properly and the risk of crevice corrosilon is very high, Attaching them to wooden bulkheads is the second worst sin. The chainplates should be made as plates ( in a T shape)attached to the deck by through bolts to underdeck plates that are themselvesconnectecd to strong points on the hull. Not bulkheads....
You don’t know what you are doing ,..that is obvious.
You sound like my dad.
Looks like a job well done to me..... Those negative waves Fred...