G'day Bill, from down-under, NZ. This is the first time in months I've sat and 'binged' on viewing your videos, thinking what an absolutely brilliant layout you have beavered away at creating. Well done on this!! I will ensure I stay abreast of updates from now on. Thanks once again for all that you show us Bill. It is all gratefully appreciated. Cheers, Greg
A split chassis Bachmann without split axels is a rarity I have found. That was good service with the perfect amount and type of lube. Great video, Jersey Bill
Neat and compact little loco. There is something about the split chassis that makes them noisy. This one sounds like my Mainline Collett 0-6-0 grinding it's way around, still likeable though. 😊
Excellent work as always, Bill. I have one of those and you're right in saying that those are rather scrapey noisy things but at least mine seem to run okay at the moment. One tiny minor detail I'd like to point out and that the one you repaired is missing the horn just above the front facing cab windows, mine also was missing a horn and had to fabricate a new one using super fine modelling clay (forgot what it is called).
Great little locos - I have the earlier Mainline version which is a noisy beast but has far better pulling power than my other 03 which is the latest Bachmann one. I reckon a Hornby 06 would suit your layout better
How do you decide what kind of lubricant to use for what? And what would you say are the essentials for ordinary use. I just have some basic Gaugemaster light oil and a tube of moly grease that I use for everything. Should I be building a larger selection?
I'd look for some Hob-e-lube or Gaugemaster gear oil, some plain clear silicon grease and some PTFE grease. Silicon and PTFE are plastic friendly and make a good gear grease when mixed.
I have one of these and it is a nightmare. Never has run smoothly at all. Maybe I will pluck up courage to have a go at a service. Basically nothing to lose
Hi Bill. I think much of the squeaky-ness comes from the bearing-less axles grinding on the chassis. I've seen people using Peco PowerLube on them, which is apparently conductive. Do you have a view on using it?
Most of the noise comes from the motor and gears. If you remove the motor and free wheel a split chassis model it's fine. Mainline models are particularly bad but the Bachmann models with their better motors and gears can run pretty quietly. The issue with this model is that the motor is encased by the chassis which amplifies the motor noise and the motor itself isn't the usual can motor you find in Bachmanns. I've tried Peco Powerlube and consider it a waste of money to be honest considering how little you get. It's a very thin oil and any machine oil of similar consistency will work just as well for a lot less money. Lubricating split chassis is a thorny issue. Basically nothing will work as there are no bearings. You'd need a lot of thick sticky grease to make any real difference and that will bring problems with conduction and dirt. A little oil and don't run them for hours on end....
@oobill Cheers, Bill. I'll not bother trying it & stick to light machine oil. The difference in the quality of more modern Bachmann & earlier Airfix/Mainline split chassis models is indeed quite stark. I think Airfix & Mainline raised the bar when it came to body detailing but were lacking in mechanisms & motors.
I keep seeing this idea in model railway videos that you can get a shock from a PP3 across the fingers. Since when? Does anyone not "tongue test" dubious ones, sure a fresh one stings a bit but that's all.
I'm not aware of anyone saying you get a shock from the battery alone and that's certainly not what I'm saying. But you very much can get a shock from a locomotive being powered by one. I found this out the hard way holding a split chassis and putting a battery to it. Enough of a shock to make you not do it again! I've also had a shock from a static grass applicator powered by a 9v battery.
@user-pf3ye6yi9n No but it's enough of a shock to make you not want to do it. So I always warn viewers about the potential for it. I've had a lot worse though. Took a direct jolt off a dodgy electric cooker once....blimey....and a few off electric fences. And once off a bar electric fire after sticking a brass handled screwdriver onto the element to see what would happen. Boom!...
@@oobill It depends on your skin resistance. Many years ago we tested everybody in school physics class and the teacher recommended that some didn't go for a career involving electricity. Fortunately mines quite high as I did.
G'day Bill, from down-under, NZ. This is the first time in months I've sat and 'binged' on viewing your videos, thinking what an absolutely brilliant layout you have beavered away at creating. Well done on this!! I will ensure I stay abreast of updates from now on.
Thanks once again for all that you show us Bill.
It is all gratefully appreciated.
Cheers, Greg
Just seen my Loco being serviced Bill,most grateful.Contact Cleaner be with you soon.Thanks,Dave.
Great video bill 👍 there's no better feeling than getting a bad running loco running well 😊 keep up the great work bill 👏 👍
Greetings from the States. Always enjoy your videos. I have been Model Railroading for years. Keep up the good work.
Nice little shunter and great service
Another interesting service
When I was at work. Clearing out the slots was called undercutting the commutator. 👍
Great work Bill, layout looks stunning 👍
A split chassis Bachmann without split axels is a rarity I have found. That was good service with the perfect amount and type of lube. Great video, Jersey Bill
Axles
@@andressanchez4517 dyslexia
great job
Neat and compact little loco. There is something about the split chassis that makes them noisy. This one sounds like my Mainline Collett 0-6-0 grinding it's way around, still likeable though. 😊
Excellent work as always, Bill. I have one of those and you're right in saying that those are rather scrapey noisy things but at least mine seem to run okay at the moment. One tiny minor detail I'd like to point out and that the one you repaired is missing the horn just above the front facing cab windows, mine also was missing a horn and had to fabricate a new one using super fine modelling clay (forgot what it is called).
Great little locos - I have the earlier Mainline version which is a noisy beast but has far better pulling power than my other 03 which is the latest Bachmann one. I reckon a Hornby 06 would suit your layout better
How do you decide what kind of lubricant to use for what? And what would you say are the essentials for ordinary use. I just have some basic Gaugemaster light oil and a tube of moly grease that I use for everything. Should I be building a larger selection?
I'd look for some Hob-e-lube or Gaugemaster gear oil, some plain clear silicon grease and some PTFE grease. Silicon and PTFE are plastic friendly and make a good gear grease when mixed.
hi Bill, good work, great little shunters, but the new ones just out are very expensive
I have one of these and it is a nightmare. Never has run smoothly at all. Maybe I will pluck up courage to have a go at a service. Basically nothing to lose
Give it a good clean and it should run OK. If not then you may have an issue with the axles.
@@oobill Thanks Bill.
I'm sure sound systems on locos hide some noisy motor noise.
Hi Bill. What is your preferred “skuush” spray. Thanks Peter from downunder.
I believe it's "WD40 Specialist Contact Cleaner" 🙂
Hi Bill. I think much of the squeaky-ness comes from the bearing-less axles grinding on the chassis. I've seen people using Peco PowerLube on them, which is apparently conductive. Do you have a view on using it?
Most of the noise comes from the motor and gears. If you remove the motor and free wheel a split chassis model it's fine. Mainline models are particularly bad but the Bachmann models with their better motors and gears can run pretty quietly. The issue with this model is that the motor is encased by the chassis which amplifies the motor noise and the motor itself isn't the usual can motor you find in Bachmanns. I've tried Peco Powerlube and consider it a waste of money to be honest considering how little you get. It's a very thin oil and any machine oil of similar consistency will work just as well for a lot less money. Lubricating split chassis is a thorny issue. Basically nothing will work as there are no bearings. You'd need a lot of thick sticky grease to make any real difference and that will bring problems with conduction and dirt. A little oil and don't run them for hours on end....
@oobill Cheers, Bill. I'll not bother trying it & stick to light machine oil.
The difference in the quality of more modern Bachmann & earlier Airfix/Mainline split chassis models is indeed quite stark. I think Airfix & Mainline raised the bar when it came to body detailing but were lacking in mechanisms & motors.
what type of skooooosh do u use for cleaning
WD40 Contact Cleaner. See FAQ in description.
@@oobill awesome thank you for that
Was this originally made by Mainline?
Pretty sure they are, I have a few of them
Add some sound deading in the body.. it sounded louder when you put the body on.
Not much room for that in a split chassis model.
I keep seeing this idea in model railway videos that you can get a shock from a PP3 across the fingers. Since when? Does anyone not "tongue test" dubious ones, sure a fresh one stings a bit but that's all.
I'm not aware of anyone saying you get a shock from the battery alone and that's certainly not what I'm saying. But you very much can get a shock from a locomotive being powered by one. I found this out the hard way holding a split chassis and putting a battery to it. Enough of a shock to make you not do it again! I've also had a shock from a static grass applicator powered by a 9v battery.
@@oobill Oh, right, kickback from the armature inductance. Not going to do you any harm.
@user-pf3ye6yi9n No but it's enough of a shock to make you not want to do it. So I always warn viewers about the potential for it. I've had a lot worse though. Took a direct jolt off a dodgy electric cooker once....blimey....and a few off electric fences. And once off a bar electric fire after sticking a brass handled screwdriver onto the element to see what would happen. Boom!...
@@oobill It depends on your skin resistance. Many years ago we tested everybody in school physics class and the teacher recommended that some didn't go for a career involving electricity. Fortunately mines quite high as I did.