@@interactive1178 took me about an hour max, if I remember correctly the turbo engines were easier to do than non turbo. Non turbo bout an hour all in, turbo engines like 40 to 45 min. A lot of cleaning the oil that leaks out too
If you're over 200k by now I would expect another one is needed yes. Remember this is a FoMoCo engine, which means it's made by Ford. Worst thing Volvo did was to sell to Ford. Ruined quality
Strong work, Nate. I started getting the dreaded "Alien Spaceship" whistle/whirl the other day. Super helpful, I get to do this on the P3 S60 tomorrow. Your attention to the small details took the scariness out of the project!
Thank you so much for putting this video together! I followed you step by step taking it apart and putting it back together! Your instructions were very clear and accurate. You saved me over $600! Thank you so much!!
I just want to thank you for this video. I took my time and in about 4 hours my check engine light is off and the car is running great. Your instructions are awesome. Keep doing these videos. They really, really help. Thank you thank you.
Thank you for this video. I had this problem last week. I went to a Volvo specialist and got it replaced, it costed me $700 with parts, labor and oil change.
Nate, there's a big difference between a PCV and a CBV, or a CRV. Most domestic and some Asian cars use PCV. All European and some Asian cars use CBV - Crankcase Breather/Regulating Valve, but not PCV. The two functionally identical but different in design. Volvo doesn't use a PCV but a CBV.
Good video, i did the repair earlier today and I would add that you don't really have to take the ECU out the air box and you don't have to go under the car to remove the 3 bottom bolts, they're easily removable from the top. I did the whole repair on a parking lot and didn't have to get my jack out to lift the car at all. Also, i would highly recommend removing the coolant reservoir hose before taking out the air box, because it is very easy to damage that plastic hose which is a bit in the way
@4DIYers thanks for mentioning that you have to pry between the housing and the cap. I ended up breaking the housing when taking off the cap. $10 job becomes a $200 job
Just did this DIY, overall this video is a great step-by-step guide! outta 10 I'd say its about a 6-7 outta 10 on how difficult it is to perform this DIY. The hardest part was removing the airbox and re-installing it the bottom plastic mount was getting caught on the water pump i ended up shaving a very small amount off with a file to make a little bit more clearance during the installation. I ended up using a tap to create new threads for the bolts on the new housing. I also didn't have a long 10mm wrench on a flex head ratching for the housing bolts so that slowed down the process slightly. I would also recommend oiling the new housing gaskets with some oil to create a guaranteed seal "oil acts as a sealant" but overall an easy job with the help of this video! I had a check engine light on for Bank 1 running lean and the terrible noise as shown in the video. All fixed now!
Thanks for the video. Quick questions, I did the glove test on the engine oil fill hole and my glove is sucked in during idle. Will changing the pcv housing fix this or is this another issue?
Hey, awesome video. I especially like how you just glossed right over the hardest part...pulling that stupid air box. I've been yanking on mine for half an hour. I'm ready to take it out with a sawzall and put it back with duct tape. - If you're doing this, the tab on the back of the airbox catches on the intake. Pull the passenger side of the airbox toward the front of the car while pushing the entire airbox to the driver side
Took me less than a minute following the clear instructions. Taking the lower fasting screws of the ECU was more of a mission. Note: it's actually not essential to remove the ECU from the air box or remove the air box completely to replace the PCV Oil Filter Housing. Just ease the air box mounts from the rubber grommets and move the air box a few inches to the right will give you access to the mounting bolts.
I have a 2010 S40 T5. Ive removed the air intake "horn" above the left side of the radiator, along w the descending intake hose, to replace both with a cold air intake/filter. In fact, the CPU is also repositioned to a bracket to the left of the original air box/filter location. As a side benefit, I can directly & easily access my oil filter for changing AND PVC breather behind it. Replacing the breather diaphragm is extremely easy. The cap can b pried up & off & a replacement diaphragm, which IPD sells for about $9, ("item 140065 - Oil Filter Separator Box Diaphragm - 5 Cyl", albeit not a Volvo OEM...but much of what IPD & FCP sell is not OEM) be swapped in without the extra work of removing engine parts to create access. The "remove-the-intake-horn-&-down hose + cpu" will give enuf access to the breather cap to allow the swap...& save 20 min work & the cost of replacing the entire oil filter-breather housing, oil feed tubes & all ($260+)..vs $8. Less time, less effort & less expense. It seems this is a better way, especially for the DIY home wrench jockey.
@@fcpeuro especially if u replace stock one-piece turbo+manifold w 2 piece Garrett (w higher boost) & billet milled manifold w grade 8 bolts. Noise in cabin is magnificent. Gonna add 2nd Pierson blow-off valve in parallel to existing, w braided line to get more mellow sound & rapid pressure release to reduce back-pressure wear...not simply @ stop lights but also in speed-gear reduction. Ultimate machine wud hav Audi TT RS 3.2 NA or current run since S40 is a sleeved engine. Mounts tho r problematic since Volvo 2.5 engine is top mounted on passenger side & bottom (torque) mounted on driver's.
23:10 when he is putting the 90° elbow hose in, is there any treat to getting it on? I have tried for about half and hour and cant seem to get the hose to slide onto both ends.
@fcpeuro I got it on this morning. I realized that it had been in my cold garage and it wasn't very flexible. I warmed it up a bit and when on in about 30 seconds.
One thing that I think you forgot or could have done. Is verify the fix with the stuck pcv valve. Take the oil cap on and off like" a" before and after"... So us n00bs can get a good comparison. Great Job ...
Needing to do this job as of now, seems like it should be possible with air box in place? Yes, would be tight, but sure a lot less stuffing around. Plus, is dumping the engine oil required? The sump level being well below the filter housing I don't see why you'd need to do an oil change, unless of course it was due. Mine was done just 200KLM ago, so even though I change it often that'd be ridiculous. My daughter has driven the car a few days like this and hope she hasn't rooted the seals.
Removing the air box will certainly give you more room to work with. It will be a messy job if you don't drain the oil beforehand. If you really want to, you can reuse the oil you drained out so long as the pan you drained it in is clean.
@@fcpeuro Yes, just did the Job and the air filter box really needs to shift out of the way. This job isn't particularly fun, but it's a nice feeling when it's done. I left the MAF and computer attached to the filter box and managed to just gently lift it off to the side without fully removing. I'm always after any steps that can be eliminated and still get the end result. On another note, the air filter box pulled out allows access to the radiator hose and thermostat assembly, so if your car is aged and has done mileage it's a no brainer to get those parts at the same time. Mine only has 100K KLMS so hopefully I don't regret not changing these out till the next time I have a reason to go through getting into this space again.
What is the estimated installation time for an experienced Volvo mechanic 2010 S40 T5 R-design ? I was advised 3.5hrs at $137.50 per hr part $214.99 total cost $696 sounds about right based on what others commented in this feed.
@@gregb.5796 Still to this day I havent figured it out, still got an engine light on and i can hear the air being sucked in the enginespace. I have given up 🫠 car runs like shit when i press the gas a little to much and the fuel milege is really bad because of some leak but other that that it runs good
I’ve got a 2010 Volvo S40 2.5 turbo and my car has 73k miles not sure if this has ever been done to my car but so far so good I haven’t had any issues yet is this something I need to look into doing as a preventative?
Debating if it's worth spending $700 for the fix or DIY. Not experienced in being a mechanic but definitely not afraid to try it with this video as a reference
Can you please do a video Ann how to clean the throttle body on a 2017 VOLVO XC60 T6 with the 2.0 supercharged/turbocharged engine? PS-I cannot locate the PCV valve either. Does this engine even have one?
Same here, made my DIY easier, thank you, but I hit a snag... 1 of the 2 MAF T25 Torx screws broke while I was reinstalling the MAF. 🤬 Do you have the part # for that screw?
Hi just purchased PCV from you but it seems my 2002 S40 has an extra U hose on left of PCV box . This hose slips onto end of Exhaust manifold. do I plug it up or leave it open?
Shaking/vibration when accelerating from a stop could be a number of things. You could have worn engine mounts, or cv shafts, or it would be a slight misfire, or a number of other things. A tiny shake doesn't sound too severe, but it might be a good idea to get it check out at a shop!
My s40 1.8 2008 has an oil leak but i realised rhe person overfilled the oil! it doesnt make any noise. It did blow air rather than make a suction force? Is this also a sign i need to replace the pcv? Many thanks.
Hi I hav d5 s40 and I have some smoke going out from the oil cap I do clean the pcv All but I still have smoke and the glavs blows up, soo how Kan I test the pcv in another way if u know please? . Thanks
Just out of curiosity. If it is only the diaphragm that is shot, why not just replace that? Also, if you are a long way from home and this happens, can you loosen oil filler cap, to release a bit of vacuum in motor to prolong the bearing seals destruction?
@@fcpeuro have a question I have a 2016 Volvo xc70 with same engine, when you disconnect the battery and the ecm, do you have to reprogram everything. Let me know thanks Herby
I did the same exact thing… but the gaskets are guarenteed to leak around the same time… that fix lasted me almost 4 years now, but now it’s leaking pretty bad where it seals to the block
If I suspect this problem is going on on my 10’ V50 2.4i, (CEL on and immediate audible clicking at idle), can just the faulty diaphragm or the PCV (assembly) be removed and replaced instead of having to replace the entire oil filter housing? Thanks for your advice in advance.
You can just replace the diaphragm. The cap pops off using a screwdriver and the new one drops in. The 2.4i is a lot easier to access and shouldn't need anything removed other than the cap.
I have a 2010 S40 T5 . It it smoking (oil burning ) at idle and burns oil pretty bad. Would the PCV system be the problem or is it something else. Car has just over 100K on it.
I would first check the obvious, your oil level. Then, its possible you have a fault in the oil pressure sensor. Otherwise, you may have some engine problems, such as a failed oil pickup tube seal or even a bad oil pump.
It was the oil pressure sensor. Thanks for such a quick response. I am a new customer, and my experience with FCP Euro has been great! Really appreciate the videos and support y’all offer.
Es INCREIBLE como los del video COMPLICARON TODO... La valvula tiene una tapa en el porta filtro quese gira y se abre se cambia y se cierra NO ES NECESARIO DESARMAR TODO
I'm wondering. My 09 C30 has always had what I call a 5 cylinder wobble, could that be an indication ? I'm averaging about 27 mpg after changing out the sparkplugs and coils. Normally running at around 75 / 80 mph.
@@fcpeuro I'm still figuring out what's normal with mine. I've replaced the coils and plugs and still it has a slight intermittant misfire. I'm getting ready to do the pcv diaphragm next. Thanks for the reply !!!
Ray, have you got used to the wobble yet? I know what you mean. When I’ve read up about it, it’s been referred to as ‘shimmer’ that you can hear/feel at low rpm. It’s simply the imperfectly balanced nature of a 5-cyl engine coupled with the firing order which accounts for this. If you search for videos on the matter, it’ll deepen your understanding of it.
maaaaaaan the 2.4i housing is a b*tch to get out. So bad that I need a new housing because I broke it trying to get it out. Thanks for the video! not sure why UA-cam didn't recommend until it was time to order for a new part. Sad day!
Hi Herby, there is no real mileage interval for PCV maintenance. As a brief example, a low mileage car that only ever sees short trips is more likely to need a PCV replacement vs a high mileage example that only sees long trips. The idea is that the system is able to get up to temp and cycle the oil as thoroughly. In addition, proper maintenance vs neglected maintenance is going to affect the life of the system as well.
That ECM module seems to be in the stupidest location ever. I mean, just look at all the dirt it has. No wonder people complain after having a car wash or something. Other than that, thank you for the video. I am considering V20 2.4i for purchase soon.
Man I’ve watched this video at least 10 times and rewound about 100 times. I’ve taken the part off at the scrapyard just for practice yet I’m still nervous! I think it’s that stupid airbox 😭
At Volvo dealers in NZ you'd be paying NZ$1200 just for the parts plus six hours labour at $100/hour. An absolute ripoff not helped by Volvo /Ford sticking the PCV Filter housing in an almost inaccessible location. Grrrrr
![How to Replace the PCV Diaphragm on a Volvo T5 [Money Saving Way]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1O4r1ftgJaQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Replace the PCV Diaphragm on a Volvo T5 [Money Saving Way]](/img/tr.png)
16:40: After installing each bolt, always give your car part a kiss. *That's* what I've been missing this whole time. Thanks, FCPEuro!
Of course! You're welcome! 🤣🤣🤣😂
Is that the only one video which shows how to replace Oil Filter Housing in older Volvos? Was looking for that for few days.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
I've done hundreds of these, was a Volvo technician for about 16 years
How long does the repair usually last? I had one done a year ago on my 2012 c30 166,000 and now it looks like I have to get another one replaced.
@@interactive1178 took me about an hour max, if I remember correctly the turbo engines were easier to do than non turbo. Non turbo bout an hour all in, turbo engines like 40 to 45 min. A lot of cleaning the oil that leaks out too
@@daviddennett2645 is it common to get one every year if you put a lot of miles on it?
@@interactive1178 with the way things are built so cheaply I wouldn't be surprised. How many miles you do a year?
If you're over 200k by now I would expect another one is needed yes. Remember this is a FoMoCo engine, which means it's made by Ford. Worst thing Volvo did was to sell to Ford. Ruined quality
Strong work, Nate. I started getting the dreaded "Alien Spaceship" whistle/whirl the other day. Super helpful, I get to do this on the P3 S60 tomorrow. Your attention to the small details took the scariness out of the project!
Rock on!
Thank you so much for putting this video together! I followed you step by step taking it apart and putting it back together! Your instructions were very clear and accurate. You saved me over $600!
Thank you so much!!
Ditto on my S-40. Made this job more simple w/your instructions.
Easy Job referring to this video as you remove and install the housing. Tells you which bolt goes where and size. Very detailed. Great video.
Glad it helped!
I just want to thank you for this video. I took my time and in about 4 hours my check engine light is off and the car is running great. Your instructions are awesome. Keep doing these videos. They really, really help. Thank you thank you.
Just did this job on my 2015 V60. Video was very helpful, the whole job was pretty smooth and easy overall!
Thank you for this video. I had this problem last week. I went to a Volvo specialist and got it replaced, it costed me $700 with parts, labor and oil change.
How long does the repair usually last? I got one replaced on my 2012 c30 a year ago and now it looks like I need another one replaced.
If I recall it was like 4 to 450 with oil change n labor. 500 max at my uncles shop, the part isn't cheap either
Very thankful for the ppl at fcp euro. I could never do this without these experts. I would have easily been overcharged by the volvo dealer(~$700)!
Step by step process starts at : @3:51
Buy the Replacement Kit Here : www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-pcv-breather-system-kit-c30-c70-s40-v50-l5pcvkit?
Nate, there's a big difference between a PCV and a CBV, or a CRV. Most domestic and some Asian cars use PCV. All European and some Asian cars use CBV - Crankcase Breather/Regulating Valve, but not PCV. The two functionally identical but different in design. Volvo doesn't use a PCV but a CBV.
25:02 Our next step is to prefill the OFH with oil to prevent dry start-up to the valvetrain, or you had done that already?
Good video, i did the repair earlier today and I would add that you don't really have to take the ECU out the air box and you don't have to go under the car to remove the 3 bottom bolts, they're easily removable from the top. I did the whole repair on a parking lot and didn't have to get my jack out to lift the car at all. Also, i would highly recommend removing the coolant reservoir hose before taking out the air box, because it is very easy to damage that plastic hose which is a bit in the way
Thanks for sharing!
Will keep that in my mind. Will have to do this job on my dads 2005 Volvo v50
@4DIYers thanks for mentioning that you have to pry between the housing and the cap. I ended up breaking the housing when taking off the cap. $10 job becomes a $200 job
Just did this DIY, overall this video is a great step-by-step guide! outta 10 I'd say its about a 6-7 outta 10 on how difficult it is to perform this DIY. The hardest part was removing the airbox and re-installing it the bottom plastic mount was getting caught on the water pump i ended up shaving a very small amount off with a file to make a little bit more clearance during the installation. I ended up using a tap to create new threads for the bolts on the new housing. I also didn't have a long 10mm wrench on a flex head ratching for the housing bolts so that slowed down the process slightly. I would also recommend oiling the new housing gaskets with some oil to create a guaranteed seal "oil acts as a sealant" but overall an easy job with the help of this video! I had a check engine light on for Bank 1 running lean and the terrible noise as shown in the video. All fixed now!
Thanks for the video. Quick questions, I did the glove test on the engine oil fill hole and my glove is sucked in during idle. Will changing the pcv housing fix this or is this another issue?
Actually that means your PCV system is functioning perfectly! When the PCV system fails it will blow the glove up rather than suck it in.
This was very helpful even for the S 60
Hey, awesome video. I especially like how you just glossed right over the hardest part...pulling that stupid air box. I've been yanking on mine for half an hour. I'm ready to take it out with a sawzall and put it back with duct tape.
- If you're doing this, the tab on the back of the airbox catches on the intake. Pull the passenger side of the airbox toward the front of the car while pushing the entire airbox to the driver side
Sorry that was glossed over George, noted for the team.
To make that easier you can lift up the engine ( engine mount from passenger side should be unscrewed).
Took me less than a minute following the clear instructions. Taking the lower fasting screws of the ECU was more of a mission. Note: it's actually not essential to remove the ECU from the air box or remove the air box completely to replace the PCV Oil Filter Housing. Just ease the air box mounts from the rubber grommets and move the air box a few inches to the right will give you access to the mounting bolts.
That airbox is a right pain I'm da a. Poor design wrt maintenance
I have a 2010 S40 T5. Ive removed the air intake "horn" above the left side of the radiator, along w the descending intake hose, to replace both with a cold air intake/filter. In fact, the CPU is also repositioned to a bracket to the left of the original air box/filter location.
As a side benefit, I can directly & easily access my oil filter for changing AND PVC breather behind it. Replacing the breather diaphragm is extremely easy. The cap can b pried up & off & a replacement diaphragm, which IPD sells for about $9, ("item 140065 - Oil Filter Separator Box Diaphragm - 5 Cyl", albeit not a Volvo OEM...but much of what IPD & FCP sell is not OEM) be swapped in without the extra work of removing engine parts to create access. The "remove-the-intake-horn-&-down hose + cpu" will give enuf access to the breather cap to allow the swap...& save 20 min work & the cost of replacing the entire oil filter-breather housing, oil feed tubes & all ($260+)..vs $8.
Less time, less effort & less expense. It seems this is a better way, especially for the DIY home wrench jockey.
That is true! An aftermarket intake and CPU relocation does make it much easier! Plus you get more turbo noises!
@@fcpeuro especially if u replace stock one-piece turbo+manifold w 2 piece Garrett (w higher boost) & billet milled manifold w grade 8 bolts. Noise in cabin is magnificent. Gonna add 2nd Pierson blow-off valve in parallel to existing, w braided line to get more mellow sound & rapid pressure release to reduce back-pressure wear...not simply @ stop lights but also in speed-gear reduction. Ultimate machine wud hav Audi TT RS 3.2 NA or current run since S40 is a sleeved engine. Mounts tho r problematic since Volvo 2.5 engine is top mounted on passenger side & bottom (torque) mounted on driver's.
What is the website where to order just the diaphragm? I need one myself
i just got a new breather box but no tubes... is it super necessary to replace the tubes?
23:10 when he is putting the 90° elbow hose in, is there any treat to getting it on? I have tried for about half and hour and cant seem to get the hose to slide onto both ends.
It is a very tight squeeze, bending the hose almost in half to get it on.
@fcpeuro I got it on this morning. I realized that it had been in my cold garage and it wasn't very flexible. I warmed it up a bit and when on in about 30 seconds.
One thing that I think you forgot or could have done. Is verify the fix with the stuck pcv valve. Take the oil cap on and off like" a" before and after"... So us n00bs can get a good comparison. Great Job ...
Did I miss the reinstall of the self tapping bolts? Do they go back in after it’s mounted back to the block?
Sheesh took me and a friend 7 hours but this video got us through it 🙏
Thank you. Your videos are so well done. Thank you for the help and instruction.
About to try this method on my 3008 V50. 👀 to clean the PVC valve and replace the diaphragm. Wish me luck.
Needing to do this job as of now, seems like it should be possible with air box in place? Yes, would be tight, but sure a lot less stuffing around.
Plus, is dumping the engine oil required? The sump level being well below the filter housing I don't see why you'd need to do an oil change, unless of course it was due. Mine was done just 200KLM ago, so even though I change it often that'd be ridiculous.
My daughter has driven the car a few days like this and hope she hasn't rooted the seals.
Removing the air box will certainly give you more room to work with. It will be a messy job if you don't drain the oil beforehand. If you really want to, you can reuse the oil you drained out so long as the pan you drained it in is clean.
@@fcpeuro Yes, just did the Job and the air filter box really needs to shift out of the way. This job isn't particularly fun, but it's a nice feeling when it's done. I left the MAF and computer attached to the filter box and managed to just gently lift it off to the side without fully removing. I'm always after any steps that can be eliminated and still get the end result.
On another note, the air filter box pulled out allows access to the radiator hose and thermostat assembly, so if your car is aged and has done mileage it's a no brainer to get those parts at the same time. Mine only has 100K KLMS so hopefully I don't regret not changing these out till the next time I have a reason to go through getting into this space again.
Thank you for the video.
Helped a lot with my 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD
What is the estimated installation time for an experienced Volvo mechanic 2010 S40 T5 R-design ? I was advised 3.5hrs at $137.50 per hr part $214.99 total cost $696 sounds about right based on what others commented in this feed.
I just did the diaphragm replacement instead of the entire housing. I’m still getting excessive vacuum. Any idea what else causes this?
did you get it fixed? I changed the whole housing and still have excessive vacuum...
@@thuddiz how’d it turn out? What was the remedy?
@@gregb.5796 Still to this day I havent figured it out, still got an engine light on and i can hear the air being sucked in the enginespace. I have given up 🫠 car runs like shit when i press the gas a little to much and the fuel milege is really bad because of some leak but other that that it runs good
Where did you purchase the diaphragm ?
Could you have a vacuum leak somewhere else ?
does the oil change kits on the fcp euro site for the 2.5 also work for the 2.4l? like the oilll filter and such
omg.. he is disassambing the whole car :D :D
Omg, I gotta do that same job myself now. Son of a b....
@@jaggybob1 just replace that: 30788494 rubber and you will be fine
Can you temporarily plug the tube and put a filter on the valve cover to vent the crank case? I need to drive the car until I fix it
I’ve got a 2010 Volvo S40 2.5 turbo and my car has 73k miles not sure if this has ever been done to my car but so far so good I haven’t had any issues yet is this something I need to look into doing as a preventative?
When the timing belt, pistons and valves are replaced, does the oil filter housing get removed too?
New to the volvo family and new subscriber great video btw
Thanks for the sub!
You guys make such great detailed vids! Very helpful
Does the V50 1.6 also have the pcv system?
Hi, just want to verify if the C70 volve radio system requested a code when you re-connected?
Awesome advisory in video as usual!!
Should there be vacuum at iddle on the line conecting to the turbo intake? Thank you
Yes.
do you have any videos for 2.4i engine ??
Debating if it's worth spending $700 for the fix or DIY. Not experienced in being a mechanic but definitely not afraid to try it with this video as a reference
We have full faith in you, Dennis!
is it possible to install a pre-krank electric oil pump on these?
Hi May I know what caused if the oil filter house cap keep flipping up?
Can you please do a video Ann how to clean the throttle body on a 2017 VOLVO XC60 T6 with the 2.0 supercharged/turbocharged engine? PS-I cannot locate the PCV valve either. Does this engine even have one?
I am looking for how to replace crankcase breather hose on 2009 volvo c70 t5
So helpful thanks
Same here, made my DIY easier, thank you, but I hit a snag... 1 of the 2 MAF T25 Torx screws broke while I was reinstalling the MAF. 🤬 Do you have the part # for that screw?
Hi. Would this apply to a 2007 C70 D5? Pretty new to these platforms so help appreciated!
I need a video on how to do this for a Volvo s40 2002 1.9lt
Hi would this be similar to s40 2008 1.8 (duratec engine) many thanks
Got a 2015 v60 with 2.5 5 Cylinder am I going to Expect this
Hi just purchased PCV from you but it seems my 2002 S40 has an extra U hose on left of PCV box . This hose slips onto end of Exhaust manifold. do I plug it up or leave it open?
when accelerating from a stop i got a tiny shake / vibration when moving any thoughts thank you c30 2008 t5 volvo
Shaking/vibration when accelerating from a stop could be a number of things. You could have worn engine mounts, or cv shafts, or it would be a slight misfire, or a number of other things. A tiny shake doesn't sound too severe, but it might be a good idea to get it check out at a shop!
My s40 1.8 2008 has an oil leak but i realised rhe person overfilled the oil! it doesnt make any noise. It did blow air rather than make a suction force? Is this also a sign i need to replace the pcv? Many thanks.
Is this oil filter housing contain anti drain valve?
what an AMAZING VIDEO
Cant thank you enough for this video. Thank you.
Hey I just want know how to dismantle this freaking pump from its hose I ask if you do a video about it it's a double pump on volvo s60 2008
how come not a ton of info and parts on the new gen?
Hi I hav d5 s40 and I have some smoke going out from the oil cap I do clean the pcv All but I still have smoke and the glavs blows up, soo how Kan I test the pcv in another way if u know please? . Thanks
I don't have the sound but my housing is covered in oil. I'm going to assume it's time to replace it?
Don't forget these engines are in the V70 P3 too!
Just out of curiosity. If it is only the diaphragm that is shot, why not just replace that? Also, if you are a long way from home and this happens, can you loosen oil filler cap, to release a bit of vacuum in motor to prolong the bearing seals destruction?
You make it look easy😂
Lol, someone ELSE always does!
Fcpeuro is the best!
YOU'RE the best Herby!
@@fcpeuro have a question I have a 2016 Volvo xc70 with same engine, when you disconnect the battery and the ecm, do you have to reprogram everything. Let me know thanks Herby
Do you need to drain the oil to change this part? Because mine had a oil change not long ago and the part just failed
Just do it and put the same oil back in afterwards obviously use a clean container . I think if you don’t oil spills everywhere
I acctually clean used pcv housings and replace the rubber parts in them. Rebuilding the pcv saves a lot of $$$ and is very easy.
I did the same exact thing… but the gaskets are guarenteed to leak around the same time… that fix lasted me almost 4 years now, but now it’s leaking pretty bad where it seals to the block
If I suspect this problem is going on on my 10’ V50 2.4i, (CEL on and immediate audible clicking at idle), can just the faulty diaphragm or the PCV (assembly) be removed and replaced instead of having to replace the entire oil filter housing? Thanks for your advice in advance.
You can just replace the diaphragm. The cap pops off using a screwdriver and the new one drops in. The 2.4i is a lot easier to access and shouldn't need anything removed other than the cap.
Where can you purchase the diaphragm
How do you reset the engine check light after replacing the PVC?
Likely need a scan tool (aka code reader) to erase.
This seems to be a pretty big undertaking. So while in the neighborhood is there anything else that should be checked/maintained/replaced?
No but I did my transmission oil drain and fill since the hole for the fill freed up a little on my model after the airbox was moved.
I have a 2010 S40 T5 . It it smoking (oil burning ) at idle and burns oil pretty bad. Would the PCV system be the problem or is it something else. Car has just over 100K on it.
Hi Will, a good start would be to check the system, and then consider further diagnostics should the PCV system be in proper working order.
is this job an hour or more what should we expect for cost in Canada BC...great video I hope my mechanic is as thorough and careful as you are.
For a labor cost from a shop you'll want to get an estimate locally as they'll all have different labor rates and the book time they use might vary.
can this blow a head gasket too?
thank you so much for such valuable video
You are most welcome!
They asked me for $700 to replace it, is it adequate? Volvo S60 2012
Great tutorial...
Thank you! Cheers!
Very informative, thanks
Thank you for viewing!
Is the new housing aluminum?
It is!
When will you make a video for the P3. You guys rarely show P3s any love on here. Appreciate the video though.
We plan on doing a P3 video!
I just changed the oil filter housing, and I now have low oil pressure and CEL. Any suggestions?
I would first check the obvious, your oil level. Then, its possible you have a fault in the oil pressure sensor. Otherwise, you may have some engine problems, such as a failed oil pickup tube seal or even a bad oil pump.
It was the oil pressure sensor. Thanks for such a quick response. I am a new customer, and my experience with FCP Euro has been great! Really appreciate the videos and support y’all offer.
I think you could've shown how the clips on the belly pan are used
As I was watching this video. That’s night my 2016 Volvo XC90 PCV oil trap when out.
Es INCREIBLE como los del video COMPLICARON TODO... La valvula tiene una tapa en el porta filtro quese gira y se abre se cambia y se cierra NO ES NECESARIO DESARMAR TODO
Would FCP EURO ever go to extend the business to Japanese vehicles? I know EURO stands for European, maybe something else for Japan?
FCP NIPPON!
Other than that, great video. Thanks
Very good video
Thanks so much Martin
I'm wondering. My 09 C30 has always had what I call a 5 cylinder wobble, could that be an indication ? I'm averaging about 27 mpg after changing out the sparkplugs and coils. Normally running at around 75 / 80 mph.
Hi, Ray! Indication of what, exactly? These 5 cylinders definitely have a unique sound and feel. 27 mpg sounds just about right for these cars!
@@fcpeuro I'm still figuring out what's normal with mine. I've replaced the coils and plugs and still it has a slight intermittant misfire. I'm getting ready to do the pcv diaphragm next. Thanks for the reply !!!
Ray, have you got used to the wobble yet?
I know what you mean. When I’ve read up about it, it’s been referred to as ‘shimmer’ that you can hear/feel at low rpm. It’s simply the imperfectly balanced nature of a 5-cyl engine coupled with the firing order which accounts for this. If you search for videos on the matter, it’ll deepen your understanding of it.
maaaaaaan the 2.4i housing is a b*tch to get out. So bad that I need a new housing because I broke it trying to get it out. Thanks for the video! not sure why UA-cam didn't recommend until it was time to order for a new part. Sad day!
Classic algorithm 🙃 Happy to help - now...
Simpler and much cheaper to only replace the diaphram!
Mileage wise when should I change this,?
Hi Herby, there is no real mileage interval for PCV maintenance. As a brief example, a low mileage car that only ever sees short trips is more likely to need a PCV replacement vs a high mileage example that only sees long trips. The idea is that the system is able to get up to temp and cycle the oil as thoroughly. In addition, proper maintenance vs neglected maintenance is going to affect the life of the system as well.
@FCP Euro ok, thank you love your videos, been buying from fcpeuro for 20 years. Love it
Also goes for S60 T5 2012
Thank you, Amos!
Can I come live in your shop? If no, I’ll settle for a job.
Man, I can’t understand how these parts go bad like this. I only have 77000 miles on this c70. What causes this part to go bad this fast.
Right??? Mine failed at 58K. Bad design, worse manufacturing.
That ECM module seems to be in the stupidest location ever. I mean, just look at all the dirt it has. No wonder people complain after having a car wash or something. Other than that, thank you for the video. I am considering V20 2.4i for purchase soon.
definitely a good point!
First step: try replace Breather Volvo oem 8642424
Man I’ve watched this video at least 10 times and rewound about 100 times. I’ve taken the part off at the scrapyard just for practice yet I’m still nervous!
I think it’s that stupid airbox 😭
You can do it!!
Fcp is the rule!
I thought suction from the oil filler cap is good, and pressure from the cap is bad?
At Volvo dealers in NZ you'd be paying NZ$1200 just for the parts plus six hours labour at $100/hour. An absolute ripoff not helped by Volvo /Ford sticking the PCV Filter housing in an almost inaccessible location. Grrrrr