Some correction: when lamps age, the resistance increases (opposite to video explanation). The CAN controller measures the current through the bulb to detect the failure. Due to the limited resolution of ADC on controller board, the threshold current is usually selected at 1-2A. The LED driver will not consume that current sometimes, and thus the bulb is considered failed. When you connect a 6 Ohm resistor parallel to LED bulb, you are increasing current and dissipate ~24W in heat when led is operating. There is actually no energy saving (24W on resistor + 24W on the LED). Now I guess that the "decoder" decreases resistance when the voltage is pulsed, and disables the resistor when the voltage is steady. Thus it does not dissipate extra power when the lights are ON normally.
The act of dimming a bulb with a series of rapid pulses is called PULSE WIDTH MODULATION and LED bulbs flicker because they are not inductive loads and they respond faster to pulses than inductive/incandescent bulbs do.
Thanks broo for the info…👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 I have a Audi 2007 A3 which of to the canbus or the resistir I need to use for my car thanks again for the information ℹ️
I have a 08 audi a3 and have tried a couple different LED bulbs with my halogen’s with resistors from the copy and still set off the error lights with flickering. “Dipped”. 😢
I’m having issues with my lights going out after a couple of min of them being on since I installed LED lights on my charger. Then I shut my car off and they turn back on for a while then back off. Any suggestions between the load resistor or a canbus decoder?
Does this decoder work for your DRL voltage if it is lower than the high beams it also powers? I have a lightbulb that powers both the DRL and high beams, but in DRL mode it flickers because the bulb gets less than 12 volts compared to the steady 12 volts used to power the bulb in high beam mode.
Yes, you need to use the anti-flicker module in this case. However, may be vehicle dependant as well. What is the vehicle? Check out www.cldled.com for all suited items for your vehicle!
One thing I want to avoid is hyper flashing. That is one thing LEDs are known to cause when they are used for turn signals. It is also the reason I never installed any on my 2017 Nissan Rogue. I have seen the hyper flash on other vehicles and I don't want to drive the vehicle like that. The rate at which they flash is unusual by comparison to other vehicles on the road and it just looks like something is wrong with that vehicle. I also would not want to get stuck behind someone who has that problem but is so hard of hearing they don't hear that annoying hyper flash relay click and forget to turn the signal off. The normal relay click rate is tolerable but I do not care for the rapid click that comes with a burnt out bulb.
What about the CANBUS bulb check where the bulbs flash regularly for at least several minutes after the car is turned off, or anything happens like opening a door or just unlocking the car.
Installed LED low beam and high beambulbs. When I switch from low beam to high beam and back to low beam I blow my high beam fuses. Do I need a decoder or a resistor?
Great video. I have a 2012 Mazda 6 and tried installing 9005 LED. I tried installing one first and DRL works. But when both are installed, DRL won't turn on, but high beam would turn on. So which one should I get? Decoder or Resistor? And which brand would you suggest?
I learned that you have to buy a decoder SPECIFICALLY for your vehicle brand, in your case one compatible or designed for Mazda , I bought one for Toyota and worked perfectly, before I bought an universal and didn’t work 🤷♂️
For some odd reason my LED’s all flicker when I press the brake pedal. It’s not on and off fully but it’s noticeable, almost strobing. Can this be the “pulsation” triggered when pressing the brakes?
Installed some LED strip lights on my doors front left and right. Since then I have lost function to the left window controls and right main lock/unlock mechanism. Could this be Canbus related or my wiring haha? Thanks
Hi, thank you for your video, my car is 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 engine. Which one should I use better? Do I really need one of them if I want to install an LED bulbs for my car? Thank you.
resistor kits output much more heat than decoder kits. resistor kits can be safe if you mount the resistor to metal correctly, but if the resistor is touching another wire or any plastic it can be very dangerous.
I have a 2019 Nissan frontier. Issues I'm having when I start LED lights they don't just shut off eventually one side of the resistor on the LED just burn out usually the passenger side be the first side to burn out I need help with this resistor kit prevent my LEDs from having premature failure
Please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com with additional information concerning your request. A certified technician will be glad to help. Thank you!
I installed an led headlights bulb for my 2015 Chrysler 200 and when I start up the engine after 5 seconds they shut off. So what I have to use the resister or the decoder?
For a 2015 Chrysler 200, you'll need to use both resistors and decoders (anti-flicker module). Please install the resistors onto a metal surface, away from plastic or rubber, as they get very hot during use. All is indicated by vehicle on our website www.cldled.com Let us know if you need further assistance. Thanks! 🙏
Left side driver side seems to turn on and work properly. Right side passenger side tries to start with a small low flickering then turns off and bulb warning. Whys that? Might HID Decoder solve that? Tried both Xenon and LED kits with canbus ballasts but non of them work without issues. Tried 35W, 40W and 50W
@@CLDLED Xenon HID 50W H7 low beam. Volvo S40N 1.8 2006 Also tried with LED with a better result. That only gave me bulb warning. But decided to throw that kit out and try Xenon HID instead. LED are too cool to not melt the snow and ice built up on the headlight so its a problem. Xenon HID is warmer and can melt snow and ice a little bit better.
all these can bus post are listed under can bus protocol parameter settings and do not say anything about once you get into factory settings you have to guess what button to change.
Would the canbus decoder, help with the LED lights going out momentarily when the engine starts (pulling a big voltage) This happens when I'm stopped at a stop light (with auto shutoff enabled) So I flash the person in front of me when I take my foot off the brake...and the engine starts back up! Was thinking about putting a car audio capacitor in the system somehow to EVEN out the voltage drop during start up....any thoughts?
Hi, I have a 2013 Ford Escape and I installed LED, as soon as I turn on the headlights and error code comes on my dash and went I start running the SUV the lights go off, which one should I need?
I changed to LED headlights on my 2005 F-150. When I turn on my fog lights, the headlights go to high-beam and stay there. Will adding the decoder fix this problem?
Please reach out to support@carlightingdistrict.com with your vehicle information and the type of LEDs installed. We will then be able to assist you properly, thanks!
Whats happen if its installed on a old vehicle without any tecnology. Its neccesary for the head unit to work properly? Its an eonon GA2178 for sale at 34$ usd (im from argentina) but doesnt have the power conector. I only need four speakers channels working
are resistor kits dangerous for my car computer system? i mean if i install them is it possible something electrical to die because of it? i have a 2012 citroen c4 diesel auto.
My lights have the canbus still light flikker in drl mode they sent me resistors but light didn't work at all do I have disconnct the canbus from the light?
Hi! I bought Auxito bulbs for my recently-bought Ranger 2016 XLT. The bulbs works perfect with the car not running, just the switch-on. When the engine is running, once I turn-on the lights they turn-off by themselves in a second. A troubleshooting? Any leads will be much appreciated. P.S. The Auxito bulb is working well. With other LED bulbs, that were tried in my car, is happening the same. I visited 2 electricians here and they couldn't help me (not the most proficient people in the country I'm residing tho, with all respect). No errors on dashboard. I've installed the Fog lights, also from Auxito, and they're working well. These bulbs are just 40W each, original is 55W. Could it be an old relay? (couldn't find it tho). Buying this Canbus Decoder could help? Thank you in advance! **Update: After the LEDs starting working well for a couple of days, there's no power now on the beams, at all. Fog lights running just fine.
Did u ever find out how to fix them turning off in a second after the car starts I’m having this problem on my 2015 charger rt lights cut on for a second after start cut off then flash
When a bulb dies its resistance goes to infinity not zero. A threshold is set with a shunt resistor in and if it detects a high resistance (not low) it will assume the bulb is burned out. LED are low current and therefore higher resistance (current is inverse to resistance). I don’t know where this guy got his information from but he could use a lesson in basic electronics with an emphasis on Ohms law.
Exactly, 1:58 an open circuit such as a burned out bulb filament, has infinite resistance for the circuit it is in. I don't see any significant benefit of a computer shutting down electric power to a burned out bulb. Most likely without a load the electronic circuitry doesn't have an easy (not worthwhile) means of setting voltage level so it appears to be shutdown voltage to the device. It is a super pain when troubleshooting not being able to easily see a voltage with a meter. The solution is to have a safe resistive load. On a voltage meter you might be able to just put a 100 ohm resister across the inputs at the meter. A typical voltage meter is specifically made to have an extremely high resistance of about 10 meg ohm and that may appear to be infinite to the circuit and not allow it to see a load.
LEDs are not high resistance. They are low resistance as they are low current or amperage @12v vs an incandescent lamp. Typically a blinker relay or BCM will require a threshold of resistance in order to operate, that the LED cannot meet hence why you must ADD resistance which increases amperage or current to meet the required threshold. A blinker relay has a solonoid that needs a certain amount of resistance to operate. A BCM will have a window of operation it will sense and can throw a code in both high and low resistance. Lastly there is a huge difference in the state of high resistance and infinite resistance. One will cause wires to heat up, the other is an incomplete circuit.
Hi my canbus unit gets hot,is this normal,thank you.my unit is called nightowl premium.can you help me please as only fitted it one month ago leds are working ok and no flickering though.
So... A "decoder" is a capacitor or a resistor wired in parallel across a light bulb. Sounds like excellent profit margins. 20 bucks for a 15cent discrete component.
I put a D-Lumina H4 9003 Canbus Decoder on my 89 corvette because I put LED headlights and the fog lights didn’t work. After I installed the D-Lumina H4 9003 Canbus Decoder fog lights still don’t work. Why is that?
Resistor won't increase resistance, it will decrease resistance and with that increase current so body computer (can, whatever) will sense proper current towards the light...
Which vehicle? Do you currently have an LED kit and this is happening ? This is what we sometimes call residual current. Please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com with additional information concerning your request. A certified technician will be glad to help. Thank you!
I hate the fact that they use the word CANbus and decoder. It does not decode the CANbus. Matter of fact these products have nothing to do with the CANbus. There is a Body Control Computer or Signal Acquisition Module or whatever the manufacturer calls it that controls the car lighting. That module communicates with the switch on the dashboard over a CANbus (but not always. Older cars may use SAE J1850 or some other protocol). Either way all these products do is simulate an incandescent bulb to the lighting module. It never interfaces with the communication bus nor does it decode anything.
Asking to that community of smart people who really knows about electronics and cars for a “decoder” with real results , I bought one from Amazon to prevent the flickering of my 9005 led DRL and didn’t work, makes the lights flashing faster and after 4 o 5 times go dark and doesn’t work anymore, turn the car off and crank it up again and lights start working 🤦♂️ Lights - Ursprung brand Vehicle-‘13 Toyota Camry Useless decoder-best view brand ☹️ Any help will be appreciated.
Some correction: when lamps age, the resistance increases (opposite to video explanation). The CAN controller measures the current through the bulb to detect the failure. Due to the limited resolution of ADC on controller board, the threshold current is usually selected at 1-2A. The LED driver will not consume that current sometimes, and thus the bulb is considered failed. When you connect a 6 Ohm resistor parallel to LED bulb, you are increasing current and dissipate ~24W in heat when led is operating. There is actually no energy saving (24W on resistor + 24W on the LED). Now I guess that the "decoder" decreases resistance when the voltage is pulsed, and disables the resistor when the voltage is steady. Thus it does not dissipate extra power when the lights are ON normally.
The act of dimming a bulb with a series of rapid pulses is called PULSE WIDTH MODULATION and LED bulbs flicker because they are not inductive loads and they respond faster to pulses than inductive/incandescent bulbs do.
Everybody knows that. Duh.
😂😂😂 🤷♂️
real good concise explanation.
Very nice explanation video thank you subscribed 👍
Thanks!
Amazing.
Thank you
Thanks broo for the info…👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have a Audi 2007 A3 which of to the canbus or the resistir I need to use for my car thanks again for the information ℹ️
Hi Joel! Please send us an email at support@carlightingdistrict.com so we can better help you!
I have a 08 audi a3 and have tried a couple different LED bulbs with my halogen’s with resistors from the copy and still set off the error lights with flickering. “Dipped”. 😢
Such a clear explanation, my G thanks for this one
Yeah right sister
Don’t say G ain’t nunaround
I’m having issues with my lights going out after a couple of min of them being on since I installed LED lights on my charger. Then I shut my car off and they turn back on for a while then back off. Any suggestions between the load resistor or a canbus decoder?
This is the explanation I have been looking for a long time about CanBus decoder on a car headlight. Thanks Sirs.
It's a pleasure to help!
Does this decoder work for your DRL voltage if it is lower than the high beams it also powers? I have a lightbulb that powers both the DRL and high beams, but in DRL mode it flickers because the bulb gets less than 12 volts compared to the steady 12 volts used to power the bulb in high beam mode.
Yes, you need to use the anti-flicker module in this case. However, may be vehicle dependant as well. What is the vehicle? Check out www.cldled.com for all suited items for your vehicle!
One thing I want to avoid is hyper flashing. That is one thing LEDs are known to cause when they are used for turn signals. It is also the reason I never installed any on my 2017 Nissan Rogue. I have seen the hyper flash on other vehicles and I don't want to drive the vehicle like that. The rate at which they flash is unusual by comparison to other vehicles on the road and it just looks like something is wrong with that vehicle. I also would not want to get stuck behind someone who has that problem but is so hard of hearing they don't hear that annoying hyper flash relay click and forget to turn the signal off. The normal relay click rate is tolerable but I do not care for the rapid click that comes with a burnt out bulb.
What about the CANBUS bulb check where the bulbs flash regularly for at least several minutes after the car is turned off, or anything happens like opening a door or just unlocking the car.
Please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com for this request.
Installed LED low beam and high beambulbs. When I switch from low beam to high beam and back to low beam I blow my high beam fuses. Do I need a decoder or a resistor?
if you need any tech support, please contact our tech support team via Facebook or email support@carlightingdistrict.com
Thank you!
Great video. I have a 2012 Mazda 6 and tried installing 9005 LED. I tried installing one first and DRL works. But when both are installed, DRL won't turn on, but high beam would turn on. So which one should I get? Decoder or Resistor? And which brand would you suggest?
Please contact us at support@carlightingdistrict.com and we will be happy to assist you!
I learned that you have to buy a decoder SPECIFICALLY for your vehicle brand, in your case one compatible or designed for Mazda , I bought one for Toyota and worked perfectly, before I bought an universal and didn’t work 🤷♂️
Was just bored one day and led swapped my entire jeep. Had a bad day that day 😂
Can I get canbus led lights for interior without a seperate resister? Built into the led itself?
Our LED bulbs are canbus compatible!
For some odd reason my LED’s all flicker when I press the brake pedal. It’s not on and off fully but it’s noticeable, almost strobing.
Can this be the “pulsation” triggered when pressing the brakes?
Hi! Please contact info@carlightingdistrict.com for this request!
Installed some LED strip lights on my doors front left and right. Since then I have lost function to the left window controls and right main lock/unlock mechanism. Could this be Canbus related or my wiring haha? Thanks
Hi Brandon, we are sorry for the delay. Please send your request to support@carlightingdistrict.com
Hi, thank you for your video, my car is 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 engine. Which one should I use better? Do I really need one of them if I want to install an LED bulbs for my car? Thank you.
Hi, a CANbus decoder is not required for this vehicle!
@@CLDLED Thank you
I need a h7 resistor kit. But problem îs, from what i've heard, it is generating a lot of heat, dangerously. Wich one is safe?
resistor kits output much more heat than decoder kits. resistor kits can be safe if you mount the resistor to metal correctly, but if the resistor is touching another wire or any plastic it can be very dangerous.
I have a 2019 Nissan frontier. Issues I'm having when I start LED lights they don't just shut off eventually one side of the resistor on the LED just burn out usually the passenger side be the first side to burn out I need help with this resistor kit prevent my LEDs from having premature failure
Please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com for this request.
what of LED projectors that flicker when fully on?
Please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com with additional information concerning your request. A certified technician will be glad to help. Thank you!
I installed an led headlights bulb for my 2015 Chrysler 200 and when I start up the engine after 5 seconds they shut off. So what I have to use the resister or the decoder?
decoder
Same for me, so when I brought the decoder it work and I have the same car as you
For a 2015 Chrysler 200, you'll need to use both resistors and decoders (anti-flicker module). Please install the resistors onto a metal surface, away from plastic or rubber, as they get very hot during use. All is indicated by vehicle on our website www.cldled.com Let us know if you need further assistance.
Thanks! 🙏
@@CLDLED the website doesn’t work on mobile phone browser. Just a blank white page.
@@retiredrebel the website is now working !
Thanks :)
Left side driver side seems to turn on and work properly. Right side passenger side tries to start with a small low flickering then turns off and bulb warning. Whys that? Might HID Decoder solve that?
Tried both Xenon and LED kits with canbus ballasts but non of them work without issues. Tried 35W, 40W and 50W
Hi, can you please give us more informations. Are you using CLD leds and what is your vehicle?
@@CLDLED Xenon HID 50W H7 low beam.
Volvo S40N 1.8 2006
Also tried with LED with a better result. That only gave me bulb warning. But decided to throw that kit out and try Xenon HID instead. LED are too cool to not melt the snow and ice built up on the headlight so its a problem. Xenon HID is warmer and can melt snow and ice a little bit better.
@@orfeous We are not sure about Xenon HID, but our LEDs works perfectly during winter and melt snow/ice!
all these can bus post are listed under can bus protocol parameter settings and do not say anything about once you get into factory settings you have to guess what button to change.
Would the canbus decoder, help with the LED lights going out momentarily when the engine starts (pulling a big voltage) This happens when I'm stopped at a stop light (with auto shutoff enabled) So I flash the person in front of me when I take my foot off the brake...and the engine starts back up! Was thinking about putting a car audio capacitor in the system somehow to EVEN out the voltage drop during start up....any thoughts?
For technical support, please send a request to support@carlightingdistrict.com , we'll be happy to help!
Hi, I have a 2013 Ford Escape and I installed LED, as soon as I turn on the headlights and error code comes on my dash and went I start running the SUV the lights go off, which one should I need?
Hi Gaby, please contact info@carlightingdistrict.com for this request. We will be happy to help!
I changed to LED headlights on my 2005 F-150. When I turn on my fog lights, the headlights go to high-beam and stay there. Will adding the decoder fix this problem?
Please send your request to support@carlightingdistrict.com, we will be happy to assist you!
Can this decoder helps with LED brake lights? My LED brake lights now do not have 2 intensity when the headlights are on
Please reach out to support@carlightingdistrict.com with your vehicle information and the type of LEDs installed. We will then be able to assist you properly, thanks!
Whats happen if its installed on a old vehicle without any tecnology. Its neccesary for the head unit to work properly? Its an eonon GA2178 for sale at 34$ usd (im from argentina) but doesnt have the power conector.
I only need four speakers channels working
Hi Marcos, please send you request to support@carlightingdistrict.com we will be happy to assist you!
are resistor kits dangerous for my car computer system? i mean if i install them is it possible something electrical to die because of it? i have a 2012 citroen c4 diesel auto.
Hi, no it won't cuase any problems.
My lights have the canbus still light flikker in drl mode they sent me resistors but light didn't work at all do I have disconnct the canbus from the light?
Please contact our support team at support@carlightingdistrict.com, we will be happy to assist you!
if led bulb flickers, but does not turn on fully, does this device fix it?
Please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com for this request.
Hi! I bought Auxito bulbs for my recently-bought Ranger 2016 XLT. The bulbs works perfect with the car not running, just the switch-on. When the engine is running, once I turn-on the lights they turn-off by themselves in a second. A troubleshooting? Any leads will be much appreciated. P.S. The Auxito bulb is working well. With other LED bulbs, that were tried in my car, is happening the same. I visited 2 electricians here and they couldn't help me (not the most proficient people in the country I'm residing tho, with all respect). No errors on dashboard. I've installed the Fog lights, also from Auxito, and they're working well. These bulbs are just 40W each, original is 55W. Could it be an old relay? (couldn't find it tho). Buying this Canbus Decoder could help? Thank you in advance! **Update: After the LEDs starting working well for a couple of days, there's no power now on the beams, at all. Fog lights running just fine.
Hi Chris, please send a request to support@carlightingdistrict.com and we will be happy to assist you!
Did u ever find out how to fix them turning off in a second after the car starts I’m having this problem on my 2015 charger rt lights cut on for a second after start cut off then flash
i have a headlight bulb that comes with that small box. its connected with the wire. all together in one. what is it called? is that canbus too?
Please contact info@carlightingdistrict.com for this question, we will be happy to assist you!
When a bulb dies its resistance goes to infinity not zero. A threshold is set with a shunt resistor in and if it detects a high resistance (not low) it will assume the bulb is burned out. LED are low current and therefore higher resistance (current is inverse to resistance). I don’t know where this guy got his information from but he could use a lesson in basic electronics with an emphasis on Ohms law.
Please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com for this request.
Exactly, 1:58 an open circuit such as a burned out bulb filament, has infinite resistance for the circuit it is in. I don't see any significant benefit of a computer shutting down electric power to a burned out bulb. Most likely without a load the electronic circuitry doesn't have an easy (not worthwhile) means of setting voltage level so it appears to be shutdown voltage to the device. It is a super pain when troubleshooting not being able to easily see a voltage with a meter. The solution is to have a safe resistive load. On a voltage meter you might be able to just put a 100 ohm resister across the inputs at the meter. A typical voltage meter is specifically made to have an extremely high resistance of about 10 meg ohm and that may appear to be infinite to the circuit and not allow it to see a load.
@@CLDLED looks like you should contact the support)
LEDs are not high resistance. They are low resistance as they are low current or amperage @12v vs an incandescent lamp. Typically a blinker relay or BCM will require a threshold of resistance in order to operate, that the LED cannot meet hence why you must ADD resistance which increases amperage or current to meet the required threshold. A blinker relay has a solonoid that needs a certain amount of resistance to operate. A BCM will have a window of operation it will sense and can throw a code in both high and low resistance. Lastly there is a huge difference in the state of high resistance and infinite resistance. One will cause wires to heat up, the other is an incomplete circuit.
@@Chris-ob8ok You need to brush up on Ohms law. Specifically the relationship between current and resistance.
Hi my canbus unit gets hot,is this normal,thank you.my unit is called nightowl premium.can you help me please as only fitted it one month ago leds are working ok and no flickering though.
Hi David, please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com for this request!
So... A "decoder" is a capacitor or a resistor wired in parallel across a light bulb. Sounds like excellent profit margins. 20 bucks for a 15cent discrete component.
I put a D-Lumina H4 9003 Canbus Decoder on my 89 corvette because I put LED headlights and the fog lights didn’t work. After I installed the D-Lumina H4 9003 Canbus Decoder fog lights still don’t work. Why is that?
please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com for this request, we will be happy to assist you!
My hid from xentec turns on perfect its just a bulb out warning I put a resister and still came on I'm gana check your website
Thanks for reaching out! We do recommand using one of our kits with a resistor to avoid any warning lights.
Will this module on a truck that has Linbus? Instead of CanBus
Please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com for this request!
Resistor won't increase resistance, it will decrease resistance and with that increase current so body computer (can, whatever) will sense proper current towards the light...
When you turn your vehicle off , and the light keep on , they going to turn off by itself ?
Which vehicle? Do you currently have an LED kit and this is happening ? This is what we sometimes call residual current. Please contact support@carlightingdistrict.com with additional information concerning your request. A certified technician will be glad to help. Thank you!
I hate the fact that they use the word CANbus and decoder. It does not decode the CANbus. Matter of fact these products have nothing to do with the CANbus. There is a Body Control Computer or Signal Acquisition Module or whatever the manufacturer calls it that controls the car lighting. That module communicates with the switch on the dashboard over a CANbus (but not always. Older cars may use SAE J1850 or some other protocol). Either way all these products do is simulate an incandescent bulb to the lighting module. It never interfaces with the communication bus nor does it decode anything.
Asking to that community of smart people who really knows about electronics and cars for a “decoder” with real results , I bought one from Amazon to prevent the flickering of my 9005 led DRL and didn’t work, makes the lights flashing faster and after 4 o 5 times go dark and doesn’t work anymore, turn the car off and crank it up again and lights start working 🤦♂️
Lights - Ursprung brand
Vehicle-‘13 Toyota Camry
Useless decoder-best view brand ☹️
Any help will be appreciated.
Please send this request to support@carlightingdistrict.com with videos of the problem if possible, we will be happy to assist you!
So much talk, and where is a demonstration of application.