How you EVER get comfortable being in this line up at this size and certainly bigger...WITHOUT GILLS...is beyond this Floridians comprehension. Even if I had gills...I dunno man. So scary. I got hit by a 10 foot(Hawaiian scale)cleanup set at Domes Puerto Rico in 1981, I was 19. Wasn't bad reflecting on it afterwards but...when that first wave of a 3-5 wave set arose, was all I could do to stay calm, deep breath and dive under. This place, and what the big wave community is doing today around the world...OMG !!! The evolution of water safety is complex and obviously effective but man. And the pioneers...who rode these before the vests, skis, spotters etc. Rhino Balls. Some of the bravest breeds ever too paddle, swim or walk...on this planet as far as I'm concerned.
Imagine this place sheet glass with a swell like this 😮
How you EVER get comfortable being in this line up at this size and certainly bigger...WITHOUT GILLS...is beyond this Floridians comprehension. Even if I had gills...I dunno man. So scary. I got hit by a 10 foot(Hawaiian scale)cleanup set at Domes Puerto Rico in 1981, I was 19. Wasn't bad reflecting on it afterwards but...when that first wave of a 3-5 wave set arose, was all I could do to stay calm, deep breath and dive under. This place, and what the big wave community is doing today around the world...OMG !!! The evolution of water safety is complex and obviously effective but man. And the pioneers...who rode these before the vests, skis, spotters etc. Rhino Balls. Some of the bravest breeds ever too paddle, swim or walk...on this planet as far as I'm concerned.
Sitting on the cliff, we ask ourselves the same thing! Super-human stuff.
@@ZealandSmithProductions 100%. Very small fraternity. "Biggest Ballz On The Planet Club" if you ask me.