Thanks for the video. Here's a tip I use since I have several archtops. I set the intonation the first time I change strings. Rather than re-intonate every time I change the strings, I'll place a piece of blue painters tape on the guitar surface along the bottom edge of the bridge before removing the strings. When putting the new strings on, I align the bridge merely by butting up against the tape. Since the tape isn't on for very long and is far gentler than plain masking tape, there is no damage to the surface or residue.
For sure, the way to go, If you know it's Floating. If you didn't know it floats, you use tape Everytime after. Was going to cut a strip of wood or plastic about 5/8" wide, or whatever that distance is between pickup and Bridge. Painters Tape for sure otherwise.
Dear Dave, 'scale length' is measured on the high 'E' string, not the low 'E' string;; the floating bridge is placed such that the measurement from nut to saddle (on the high 'E') is the quoted scale length;; the bridge is then slightly slanted (on the low 'E' side) so that the nut to saddle measurement on the low 'E' string is about 3mm longer than for the high 'E' string;; the height you set the bridge to depends on whether you will be playing only rhythm or playing lead - a higher height provides for more volume(acoustically);; I have two archtops, one modern and one from 1965 -- a small pin prick into the varnish with a scribing pin marks the correct position for the bridge's corners - who wants to have to 'measure' bridge position ever time you have cause to remove all the strings? :))
Awesome Dave! Thanks. I started playing guitar at about 10 and I got my first archtop at around 14. I remember when not knowing anything, I changed the strings for the first time and the bridge fell on to the floor - man I was screwed up for a month until I took it to the shop and had it set up right. I am 55 now and still learning. Love your channel!
A lot of archtops with violin type F holes set the bridge the same as a violin. The exact middle of the F hole (Its widest point) is shaped like a point. This is where violins and a great deal of archtop guitars have the bridge. If you put it centred there and tune up it won't be far off and will only require a slight movement. If you have a non compensated bridge there is no way you are going to get all the strings intonated perfect but if you make sure both E's are intonated that will get you the closest. I think Archtops with Gibson type ABR bridges give perfect intonation but I think they affect the tone badly. It's a trade off.
Went to polish Frets on My Gibson 400, Bridge fell off, roughly set at Double the 12th fret, although you don't mention, It's understood to set side to side over the Pickup poles, and check the E's are equal from the side of the fretboard. Keep up the good work.
Just reset the bridge on my Epiphone ES175 following this video and the difference to the sound is amazing it sounds so much more refined, the bridge was about 6mm out. Thanks for the video.
It's been pointed out that the bridge has been replaced in reverse. I'm pretty sure Dave missed that, easily done, and will have corrected it. The important information about the placement of the bridge however is perfectly correct. I just tried the measurements on my old 1960's parlour acoustic which has a floating bridge and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the great tutorial Dave.
Exactly the refresher I needed for a vintage harmony or two. FYI mine don't have compensated bridges but some have adjustable metal saddles on top. Thanks Dave
Dave you should always chalk the underside of your bridge ... the chalk crystals actually increase volume and improve tone . At our shop we always chalk the fiddle viola cello Bass mando and Guitar bridges Many Blessings...SMR
Hi Dave: That sure looks like an old Harmony witch is my (very first time major guitar) project I just completed.Neck reset/replaced fret board/new frets/added a single humbucker at neck and fitted/shaved a new bridge but had no idea how to set intonation then i found your video Thank You sososomuch!........This $50 when new archtop sounds pretty good i must say you are the man................
It appears to me that the bridge is 180 degrees upside down. The 4 wound strings should gradually move closer to the pick-up as the gauges get smaller. Then the pattern starts over for the solid stings. Bet the intonation would improve if you flipped that thing around…
thank you so so much.. i finally got it tuned correctly, i been searching for two weeks on and off from work to my guitar,(Mostly messing with my Guitar lol) thanks again dave, now to make sure the rest is in proper condition, it's a 1958 Gibson es-125 archtop
Hello Dave, This is Matt. Same guy that just put in a comment/ question a moment ago about the bow in the acoustic. The idea that I was going for is somewhat trying to make it look Your Harmony Acoustic that ive seen in another video. Except I would be putting a pickup on top under the neck.
Hang on.. This guy has put the bridge back on the wrong way round? Am I right? I think so..Hes gonna have a hell of a job doing intonation with that A string coming forward. That saddle jump should be the for the B string going backwards? Tell me if I am wrong?
You're not wrong - I couldn't believe anyone thinking he knew about setting the floating bridge position on a guitar could make such a fundamental mistake. There was no need to take the bridge off or even to detune to measure the distance either.
I doubt he has noticed it yet if he has why hasn't he used an annotation, or mentioned it in information, to prevent people following his video making the same mistake.
This was useful...I put off buying an Eddie Cochran 6120 Gretsch because of the floating bridge..I'd have nightmares about losing positioning during maintenance LOL
great refresher .. looks like a 60's Harmony like mine ..love that pickup.. i won from sentell pickups on Ebay for 22.00 a jazzmaster type that fits in the case of a p90 dogear ...made like a p90 but uses rod magnets instead of screws and 2 a5 magnets inside that makes it to tall.. it fits in the middle like yours ..with no mods to the body ..flush mount .. best sounding pickup i got and i have ..or maybe because its a p90 type and never played on one...sounds better than my vintage gibson T-top But ..have thought about cutting the back and add a cover to get to the wiring on these things more easily...but really a last effort to do so.
Excellent Vid, as usual Dave.. Keep um' coming, I can assure you, they are very much appreciated! I wish I could bring my guitars to you. Portsmouth, UK is a tad too far though, eh! Cheers Mate..
In most cases, you should be able to use the centre notch of the F holes for the centre line of the bridge. At least to get close enough to start intonating.
Thank you, sir! Great information, right to the point. What was the name of the song you played at the beginning, while you were removing the bridge? Is there tab for it? I didn't see any.
Here's what I do... I have a few archtops... Take one that has the same scale as the one you're putting the bridge on.. Measure...the one that is already set up.. on both the first string...from nut to where the string rests on the bridge. Do the same for the low e string. PUT the bridge on the guitar...using those measurements... for where the high E and Low E fall on the bridge!.. BINGO!.. Now, before ever taking a bridge off...as in putting on new strings.. Put a short strip of masking tape...one both sides and the end..at each end of the bridge..WHILE the bridge is still on.. Then, just...put the bridge back in the marked location... when you want to put the bridge back on.
I hate to say this but that bridge saddle is backwards in this video. That configuration of bridge saddle is for a wound G and then the B string is notched backwards because it is always the offender being most difficult to intonate and hence the offset.
Very informative video Thank you for it. To make it sound even better.. Make the bridge fit tight to the body. Do this on the correct place after intonating it! (Mark it somehow) -:- Put sandpaper on the gitartop under the bridge and sand the underside of the brige itself to the exact shape of the place it sits on.. I read they put chalkdust underneat it too. Dont know if its correct and improves tone even more?? Just make it sit in full contact whit fine abrasivepaper, it works noticebel. Olso i marked my bridge were to sit😂
1. that isn't the original bridge is it? 2. did you have to reset the neck when you got it? 3. awesome pickup. what's the name/model? I had almost the same guitar (the peg head was less decorative) The neck was nasty. Intonation was impossible because of the warp and it had a ski jump... I'll have to remember the measurement from the 12th to the bridge... good point. Got a new old kay to mess with! :)
Hey Dave, big fan here. Long time first time. I have what I think is two issues with my Eastman archtop (ya, its chinese); 1. roughly between the 3rd and 7th fret on the D, G, B, E string's, I here a odd vibration that is coming from the bridge pickup. I press down on the pickup and its gone. I heard there's a spring loaded screw in there? 2. What I believe to be a second problem is the D string around the 10th fret, the notes are dead. It probably isn't a "wolf tone" since it happens on other notes although not as severe. The guitar intonation is fine, the frets seem to be firmly in place, AND I have raised and lowered the action. It doesn't like its the truss rod as there is nothing hitting the frets
Hi Dave thanks again for your video , I have a question , I like to play my guitar with low action the problem is I put on Ernie ball not even slinky 12 to 56 on my les Paul epiphone , should I adjust the truss rod and put in a small amount of curve to stop the fret buzzing
Hi Dave.. Thanks for a good video on this method... Can you provide me with any tips on slotting a new archtop bridge? I know "less is more" when making the slots, but what sort of tool do you recommend, also string spacing, etc?
I hope you figured out at some point (in this 10 years) that the bridge is mounted in the opposite way meaning that you inverted the bass side with the treble side.
Hi Dave, I have just restored an acustic guitar with a floating bridge and I notice that the tail peice is identical to the one in your video and I was wondering if they might be by the same company. This guitar belonged to my father and has to be a 1930's build. It has a label inside " Burlington Guitar" I have not been able to find any information on it. He purchased it from a music store in Melbourne back then. Do you know anything of them? Appreciate any help. Roy , Melbourne. Australia.
Thanks for the video.
Here's a tip I use since I have several archtops. I set the intonation the first time I change strings. Rather than re-intonate every time I change the strings, I'll place a piece of blue painters tape on the guitar surface along the bottom edge of the bridge before removing the strings. When putting the new strings on, I align the bridge merely by butting up against the tape. Since the tape isn't on for very long and is far gentler than plain masking tape, there is no damage to the surface or residue.
For sure, the way to go, If you know it's Floating. If you didn't know it floats, you use tape Everytime after. Was going to cut a strip of wood or plastic about 5/8" wide, or whatever that distance is between pickup and Bridge. Painters Tape for sure otherwise.
I use post-it notes.
Or you can change the strings one at a time and the bridge will not move at all. Why take them all off at once?
Dear Dave, 'scale length' is measured on the high 'E' string, not the low 'E' string;; the floating bridge is placed such that the measurement from nut to saddle (on the high 'E') is the quoted scale length;; the bridge is then slightly slanted (on the low 'E' side) so that the nut to saddle measurement on the low 'E' string is about 3mm longer than for the high 'E' string;; the height you set the bridge to depends on whether you will be playing only rhythm or playing lead - a higher height provides for more volume(acoustically);; I have two archtops, one modern and one from 1965 -- a small pin prick into the varnish with a scribing pin marks the correct position for the bridge's corners - who wants to have to 'measure' bridge position ever time you have cause to remove all the strings? :))
I didn't know that. Live and learn.
Awesome Dave! Thanks. I started playing guitar at about 10 and I got my first archtop at around 14. I remember when not knowing anything, I changed the strings for the first time and the bridge fell on to the floor - man I was screwed up for a month until I took it to the shop and had it set up right. I am 55 now and still learning. Love your channel!
A lot of archtops with violin type F holes set the bridge the same as a violin. The exact middle of the F hole (Its widest point) is shaped like a point. This is where violins and a great deal of archtop guitars have the bridge. If you put it centred there and tune up it won't be far off and will only require a slight movement. If you have a non compensated bridge there is no way you are going to get all the strings intonated perfect but if you make sure both E's are intonated that will get you the closest. I think Archtops with Gibson type ABR bridges give perfect intonation but I think they affect the tone badly. It's a trade off.
Went to polish Frets on My Gibson 400, Bridge fell off, roughly set at Double the 12th fret, although you don't mention, It's understood to set side to side over the Pickup poles, and check the E's are equal from the side of the fretboard. Keep up the good work.
Just reset the bridge on my Epiphone ES175 following this video and the difference to the sound is amazing it sounds so much more refined, the bridge was about 6mm out. Thanks for the video.
It's been pointed out that the bridge has been replaced in reverse. I'm pretty sure Dave missed that, easily done, and will have corrected it. The important information about the placement of the bridge however is perfectly correct. I just tried the measurements on my old 1960's parlour acoustic which has a floating bridge and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the great tutorial Dave.
I came here to … nvm
How do you know if the bridge is reversed?
You've explained intonation better than anyone ... It makes sense now
Wow... Just set up my 1930's Regal archtop using your video, plays better than ever now...
Exactly the refresher I needed for a vintage harmony or two. FYI mine don't have compensated bridges but some have adjustable metal saddles on top.
Thanks Dave
Dave you should always chalk the underside of your bridge ... the chalk crystals actually increase volume and improve tone . At our shop we always chalk the fiddle viola cello Bass mando and Guitar bridges
Many Blessings...SMR
What kind of chalk?
White limestone? (CaCO3)
Please and thank you.
Hi Dave: That sure looks like an old Harmony witch is my (very first time major guitar) project I just completed.Neck reset/replaced fret board/new frets/added a single humbucker at neck and fitted/shaved a new bridge but had no idea how to set intonation then i found your video Thank You sososomuch!........This $50 when new archtop sounds pretty good i must say you are the man................
Thank you! The intonation is much better on my 50s Airline archtop now. Great video.
It appears to me that the bridge is 180 degrees upside down. The 4 wound strings should gradually move closer to the pick-up as the gauges get smaller. Then the pattern starts over for the solid stings. Bet the intonation would improve if you flipped that thing around…
good observation
That's the way it looks to me to , he has the bridge backwards
That's the first thing I saw after he yelled Howdie three times.
Cooorrecto.
I gotta get new glasses. First it looked one way, then it looked da other. I’ll go with the majority to keep from visiting the eye doc.
You are the MAN! Thank you for making this video. I inherited an old Harmony Rocket from my pops and I've been having trouble with this.
Omg im watching a vintage episode. Still relevant then as it is now Dave. Thanks man
Thanks,Davey. I'm learning tons from your vids and my stuff has never played better or easier.Keep solving the mysteries for us,Cheers
I'm sitting here waiting for my first floating bridge guitar to show up and this randomly pops up for me. Fantastic timing you have!
where did you buy it from?
Thank you Dave!!! Getting ready to put new strings on my new archtop for the first time!!
great video. i tried to figure intonation out very long. this is the first video really helping a lot thanks
Always watching and learning...Thanks Dave.
thank you so so much.. i finally got it tuned correctly, i been searching for two weeks on and off from work to my guitar,(Mostly messing with my Guitar lol)
thanks again dave, now to make sure the rest is in proper condition, it's a 1958 Gibson es-125 archtop
I have been waiting for you to make a video explaining this! very much looking forward to watching it!
Worked out well for me…..Keep em coming Dave, many thanks
so can i just move the floating bridge up and down and it will just adjust the action?
Hello Dave, This is Matt. Same guy that just put in a comment/ question a moment ago about the bow in the acoustic. The idea that I was going for is somewhat trying to make it look Your Harmony Acoustic that ive seen in another video. Except I would be putting a pickup on top under the neck.
Hang on.. This guy has put the bridge back on the wrong way round? Am I right? I think so..Hes gonna have a hell of a job doing intonation with that A string coming forward. That saddle jump should be the for the B string going backwards? Tell me if I am wrong?
I clocked that too. I'm sure he noticed after the first chord.
You're not wrong - I couldn't believe anyone thinking he knew about setting the floating bridge position on a guitar could make such a fundamental mistake. There was no need to take the bridge off or even to detune to measure the distance either.
I doubt he has noticed it yet if he has why hasn't he used an annotation, or mentioned it in information, to prevent people following his video making the same mistake.
I did not notice, i stil put my bridge on the rigth way. Its a informative video nevertheless.
I just ordered one on eBay for my guild T-100 slim Jim from 1959 thanks for the video. it helps you rock 🎸
Short ; sweet ; clear & simple... Thanks Dude!
Hi from the UK, thanks Dave your Vids are always good and with a slash of humour - nice .
Awesome tip mate thanks
Thanks for this! No BS just straight to it. Fixed up my new guitar in about 15 mins.
Thank you so very much, I needed guidance with this concept and you helped me out!!
Very helpful. I feel a lot better about taking my tools to my new archtop now :p
Some rusty old tools from 40 years ago used on a 2017 Gibson L5
Thanks a lot Dave for teaching how to do this,
Dear Dave. Solid Sense ! , Great Entertainment To Boot ! In Fact, “Great Stuff”. Greetings From Scotland.
Thanks Dave, Simple and straight to the point! Just what I needed
Thanks for this Dave... Intonation is now spot on!
Thanks Dave, just what I was looking for, very helpful.
Nice work Dave. Very Helpful.
As always a good lesson in guitar maintenance and setting up for best sound....LOVE YOUR VIDS!!!! ...Ed...
Sir, thank you. I was able to intimate my Guild X-175 with your help!
dude thank you for this one. THIS HELPED ME SO MUCH
You are my new sacred slice of free-internet-info. I shall protect you.
Cool Tut David... Many thanks
Just what I was looking for, thanks very much!
Thanks Dave i never did no that so now somethings do make sense
I've fixed a bass with this technique, thanks dude
This was useful...I put off buying an Eddie Cochran 6120 Gretsch because of the floating bridge..I'd have nightmares about losing positioning during maintenance LOL
Thank you for this
Very helpful!
Perfect explanation, thank you!
great refresher .. looks like a 60's Harmony like mine ..love that pickup.. i won from sentell pickups on Ebay for 22.00 a jazzmaster type that fits in the case of a p90 dogear ...made like a p90 but uses rod magnets instead of screws and 2 a5 magnets inside that makes it to tall.. it fits in the middle like yours ..with no mods to the body ..flush mount .. best sounding pickup i got and i have ..or maybe because its a p90 type and never played on one...sounds better than my vintage gibson T-top
But ..have thought about cutting the back and add a cover to get to the wiring on these things more easily...but really a last effort to do so.
This was a fantastic video. Thank you!
Excellent!!! Thank you Dave.
This guitar is one of the most beautiful things in the universe
Howdy! Thanks for this video.
Again...Coolio. Dave, you did a fine job. Thank you.
excellent! thanx for sharing. i'll try this on my kingston.
Very informative. Thanks !
Excellent Vid, as usual Dave.. Keep um' coming, I can assure you, they are very much appreciated! I wish I could bring my guitars to you. Portsmouth, UK is a tad too far though, eh! Cheers Mate..
Great video and spot on to boot! 😊
I was wrong when I disliked this a few years ago. I didn't know enough to appreciate it. Now I do. Very good info. Thanks a lot.
In most cases, you should be able to use the centre notch of the F holes for the centre line of the bridge. At least to get close enough to start intonating.
Hi Dave the compensated bridge is bacvkward.The B string(second string) is the one with compensation not theA (fifth) Jamie
Nice one Dave 👍
Thank you, sir! Great information, right to the point.
What was the name of the song you played at the beginning, while you were removing the bridge? Is there tab for it? I didn't see any.
That was excellent.
is that measurement to the beginning or end of the 12th fret?
thank you, feel much better
Thanks Dave!
Thanks Dave I just bought a Epiphone Zephyr -regent and was wondering about the bridge . do you have a favorite string for Arch tops??
thx that the answer i was searching
I would love to be an apprentice to your guitar wisdom.
Hi Dave thanks for gettting back to me , I love to bring it to you but I'm in Australia.
maybe same maybe same direction on where to start?
Great Video Dave.But now these customers of mine will do it themselves!Still
very good lesson.....Thanks for the Molson
Thanks!
You sound like a friend of mine in NY who use to breed discus fish!
thanks, man for this it works!!!!!! the measuring I mean bang on !!!!
Here's what I do... I have a few archtops... Take one that has the same scale as the one you're putting the bridge on.. Measure...the one that is already set up.. on both the first string...from nut to where the string rests on the bridge. Do the same for the low e string. PUT the bridge on the guitar...using those measurements... for where the high E and Low E fall on the bridge!.. BINGO!.. Now, before ever taking a bridge off...as in putting on new strings.. Put a short strip of masking tape...one both sides and the end..at each end of the bridge..WHILE the bridge is still on.. Then, just...put the bridge back in the marked location... when you want to put the bridge back on.
I hate to say this but that bridge saddle is backwards in this video. That configuration of bridge saddle is for a wound G and then the B string is notched backwards because it is always the offender being most difficult to intonate and hence the offset.
Very informative video
Thank you for it.
To make it sound even better..
Make the bridge fit tight to the body.
Do this on the correct place after intonating it!
(Mark it somehow)
-:- Put sandpaper on the gitartop under the bridge and sand the underside of the brige itself to the exact shape of the place it sits on..
I read they put chalkdust underneat it too. Dont know if its correct and improves tone even more??
Just make it sit in full contact whit fine abrasivepaper, it works noticebel.
Olso i marked my bridge were to sit😂
1. that isn't the original bridge is it?
2. did you have to reset the neck when you got it?
3. awesome pickup. what's the name/model?
I had almost the same guitar (the peg head was less decorative) The neck was nasty. Intonation was impossible because of the warp and it had a ski jump... I'll have to remember the measurement from the 12th to the bridge... good point. Got a new old kay to mess with! :)
Hey Dave, big fan here. Long time first time.
I have what I think is two issues with my Eastman archtop (ya, its chinese);
1. roughly between the 3rd and 7th fret on the D, G, B, E string's, I here a odd vibration that is coming from the bridge pickup. I press down on the pickup and its gone. I heard there's a spring loaded screw in there?
2. What I believe to be a second problem is the D string around the 10th fret, the notes are dead. It probably isn't a "wolf tone" since it happens on other notes although not as severe.
The guitar intonation is fine, the frets seem to be firmly in place, AND I have raised and lowered the action. It doesn't like its the truss rod as there is nothing hitting the frets
Eric Hanaway I have FlatWound 13 to 56's if it matters
Thank you for your help!!!
Thanks Dave..I thought so but wanted to make sure..:)
Hi Dave thanks again for your video , I have a question , I like to play my guitar with low action the problem is I put on Ernie ball not even slinky 12 to 56 on my les Paul epiphone , should I adjust the truss rod and put in a small amount of curve to stop the fret buzzing
i was pretty close to like this video, but 666 it's such a good number. So i'll just say "Thanks!"
Hi Dave..
Thanks for a good video on this method... Can you provide me with any tips on slotting a new archtop bridge? I know "less is more" when making the slots, but what sort of tool do you recommend, also string spacing, etc?
This guitar looks cool.
Thanks man , good work 😘👍
Very usefull! Thanks dave!
awesome brother thx
Cool video. Is there any pickup saddle which lets you move the pickup from its position?
Thanks Dave.
"Perfect intonation is a fantasy"... Have been telling that to customers for years!
thanks for sharing :D
Thanks Dave for the Vid!!
I hope you figured out at some point (in this 10 years) that the bridge is mounted in the opposite way meaning that you inverted the bass side with the treble side.
Great info I liked this vedio
Trank you very much 🙏🏽
Hi Dave,
I have just restored an acustic guitar with a floating bridge and I notice that the tail peice is identical to the one in your video and I was wondering if they might be by the same company.
This guitar belonged to my father and has to be a 1930's build. It has a label inside " Burlington Guitar"
I have not been able to find any information on it. He purchased it from a music store in Melbourne back then.
Do you know anything of them?
Appreciate any help.
Roy ,
Melbourne.
Australia.
good tip. Regular chalk?