I watched a couple of your videos and I became interested. Then I seen your "cost to build" video, after that, I had to subscribe. I love the 11% sales!!
I can't wait to see how beautiful your gonna make it.great job so far.I wish I had the funds to do that.Your so smart, God bless you and your wife and kids.
Thanks for the videos. I love your attention to details and perfection in quality. I wish I had your energy. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to your next video.
bro the frame is strong in your garage nice idea and never can enter of cold even air because we have also a glue silicon much better to pit the wood to the flouring good job. now i have idea came from you to fix better and strong frame.GOD BLESS YOU and your FAMILY
I seen the window pic and that is what I was looking for. I am not going to do mine like you did yours. I am doing all standard girts inside and outside then going to box in the window with OSB and OSB interior wall and exterior walls before metal and drywall. I am not trying to save an extra 1.5 inches. Girts on the wall like they do outside will make it super fast to put up and super fast to add sheathing and then router out the holes. Blow in cellouse and all done. You end up with a solid wall rather than a lot of thermal breaks.
Great work, as always. Probably overkill as your own home should be. =) I know when framing up a pole barn, you want and need to get it skinned as fast as possible, but it would have been awesome to be able to screw through the girts into those bookshelf girts from the outside. Still pretty bomb-proof. I saw a Kyle trick in there with the nail...haha GREAT JOB!!!
I like RR detail if putting that rat board in and theN Running the insulation all the way down...I wish I’d have put a thermal break in my slab....I regret it terribly
Interesting to see you used both an outside girt as well as the bookshelf girts. Any specific reason to use both methods? I like the thermal break the outside girts give but also like the strength the bookshelf girts provide. Not sure what I'll do when the time comes but I truly appreciate you sharing what you're doing and your mindset. Really enjoy the series....
I'm trying to decide between bookshelf and regular but I want to finish the inside so i considered bookshelf but I think this way may be faster to put the building up and finish the outside then work on the inside later.
Did you consider pro and cons using the bookshelf solution? I thought using a girth just inside the posts would be easier and would keep the walls free for foam insulation. Once the windows are installed you are fixed to them.
at the very end of the video it shows what will be the living area and there were just std girts. How were those walls framed on the inside prior to interior wall finish?
so the bookshelf girt and exterior girt previously installed are not nailed together ? ie; you don't have to go back outside and shoot nails into your new bookshelf girt ?
man thats a funky way to frame a house. we do it a lot different on the west coast....for one a foundation like that would crumble in 1 year...you must not have any earth movement where you are..
I have 2x4 girts and am thinking of adding the 2x6 bookshelf girts for added strength. Could I glue the bookshelf girts to the 2x4 girts or use a Simpson bracket?
it would be interesting to see the extra costs column on your spreadsheet.. not knocking you at all, it's just so hard to account for everything. I'm starting a pst frame house in texas this month.
My bottom treated girt is a 2x12 and starts about 7”s below the top of the fished concrete. My next girt is a 2x6 and the center is 36”s up from the finished concrete.
I love how you do all the extra things to make the structure stronger and better. It's likely the last home you'll live in, so why not? Question: It looked like you didn't toenail the bookshelves into the outside girts. Is that because of the possibility of penetrating the outside steel, or is it just not necessary?
It’s not necessary all though it would have been nice to have had the time to put them in prior to putting the steel up and screwed them in through the outside girt. There are some post frames that only have bookshelf girts and then all the outside and inside finishes are attached directly to the same girt.
@@MrPostFrame for a new 40x72 post frame build whats your thoughts on doing strictly book shelf girts for outside metal and drywall. Would save quite a bit of lumber with today's rising cost. Any downsides?
Im sure you have told the audience before but i have not heard it, what are your plans for insulating? Spray foam i assume but just curious on inches, closed/open cell, ceiling, etc. Love the videos
Could I do the inside girts as studs up and down if I do the 2x4's on the outside.Do you do any blocking between the inside girts to hang stuff later on your finished walls?
do you fasten the girts only on the post ends. the middle seems like they are flimsy. could you , instead, put them on before the outer skin then you could screw the girts to the wrap around 2x6's
Thanks my Brother, I am getting my stuff all lined up, talked to bank today. Land and shell , doing the rest out of pocket looks like. You know banks!!
South Carolina, Spartanburg. Deciding on building choice now, steel, red steel or post. Your post makes me want to go like yours, looks easier to finish. I have a thousand questions, LOL To be honest!!! Watching you and Kyle , has really inspired my old butt, to go for it. My number on my channel, if you ever want to share knowledge??
I've thought about pocket holes on the ends and using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws instead of toenailing. It may require a tad bit more work, but it seems like it would be stronger than nails? I am getting a pole barn shop this summer and I'm seriously considering doing that. I'll need to check if that would pass inspection first of course.
Correct. It definitely wouldn’t hurt anything if you toenailed them. I’m having closed cell spray foam put in so that will help me out. I would probably toenail them if I was doing bat insulation.
You always engineer things a step above. Thank you If I where to drywall Would I put a barrier between the edge of the drywall and cement or not Should I be concerned about wicking ?
I have a 6 mil vapor barrier under concrete so moisture should not be a problem. However I always set drywall up a small amount so it’s not sitting on the floor. Especially in the garage where your vehicles could bring water in.
It’s a two story and I needed load bearing walls to hold the upstairs. It will make more sense when I start releasing the house interior framing videos.
The problem with bookshelf girts is you just created a ton of thermal bridges. I decided it was having all those thermal bridges wasn't worth the extra 3 inches of interior space.
I completely understand that. My garage is the only place I am planning on the bookshelf girts. I wanted them for a couple reasons. One is the windows I ordered have pre installed jambs for a 7” wall so it would have created more work by putting interior girts on. Would have caused problems with my garage trims as well. The house will be done differently.
Between MR and RR I feel like I have a masters in post frame building construction. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience
Wow, thanks
What an awesome series. I cant wait for the next! Learning so much from your methods.
I watched a couple of your videos and I became interested. Then I seen your "cost to build" video, after that, I had to subscribe. I love the 11% sales!!
I really enjoy this kinda stuff Paul, thank you for sharing. (I'm a retired carpenter) seems I cannot get enough.
I can't wait to see how beautiful your gonna make it.great job so far.I wish I had the funds to do that.Your so smart, God bless you and your wife and kids.
such attention to detail , yes it takes a little longer, but the end result is unbelievable
Thanks for the videos. I love your attention to details and perfection in quality. I wish I had your energy. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to your next video.
Finally ran across your video's. Has been interesting to watch, and gain some additional information.
bro the frame is strong in your garage nice idea and never can enter of cold even air because we have also a glue silicon much better to pit the wood to the flouring good job. now i have idea came from you to fix better and strong frame.GOD BLESS YOU and your FAMILY
Thanks for watching!
Very good video. You are very informative thank you.
I seen the window pic and that is what I was looking for. I am not going to do mine like you did yours. I am doing all standard girts inside and outside then going to box in the window with OSB and OSB interior wall and exterior walls before metal and drywall. I am not trying to save an extra 1.5 inches. Girts on the wall like they do outside will make it super fast to put up and super fast to add sheathing and then router out the holes. Blow in cellouse and all done. You end up with a solid wall rather than a lot of thermal breaks.
Great work, as always. Probably overkill as your own home should be. =) I know when framing up a pole barn, you want and need to get it skinned as fast as possible, but it would have been awesome to be able to screw through the girts into those bookshelf girts from the outside. Still pretty bomb-proof. I saw a Kyle trick in there with the nail...haha GREAT JOB!!!
Very cool.
Good stuff!
I like RR detail if putting that rat board in and theN Running the insulation all the way down...I wish I’d have put a thermal break in my slab....I regret it terribly
Interesting to see you used both an outside girt as well as the bookshelf girts. Any specific reason to use both methods? I like the thermal break the outside girts give but also like the strength the bookshelf girts provide. Not sure what I'll do when the time comes but I truly appreciate you sharing what you're doing and your mindset. Really enjoy the series....
I had to add something to be able to attach my finish interior steel to. I chose the bookshelf girts for the added strength.
I'm trying to decide between bookshelf and regular but I want to finish the inside so i considered bookshelf but I think this way may be faster to put the building up and finish the outside then work on the inside later.
Did you consider pro and cons using the bookshelf solution? I thought using a girth just inside the posts would be easier and would keep the walls free for foam insulation. Once the windows are installed you are fixed to them.
at the very end of the video it shows what will be the living area and there were just std girts. How were those walls framed on the inside prior to interior wall finish?
When you insulate are you gonna do partial closed cell and then open cell? Or fiberglass after the closed cell?
3”s of closed cell then fiberglass.
so the bookshelf girt and exterior girt previously installed are not nailed together ? ie; you don't have to go back outside and shoot nails into your new bookshelf girt ?
Why not indtall them before metal installation? Seems it would be easier to nail them from outside.
Does this have an advantage over interior girts on the post face?
man thats a funky way to frame a house. we do it a lot different on the west coast....for one a foundation like that would crumble in 1 year...you must not have any earth movement where you are..
I have 2x4 girts and am thinking of adding the 2x6 bookshelf girts for added strength. Could I glue the bookshelf girts to the 2x4 girts or use a Simpson bracket?
it would be interesting to see the extra costs column on your spreadsheet.. not knocking you at all, it's just so hard to account for everything. I'm starting a pst frame house in texas this month.
Here's our cost playlist
How do you plan to finish your ceilings? I am wanting to drywall mine flat but not sure how to do that with 8’ on center trusses. Any ideas?
The guy I work for has us run 2x4 perlins on the bottom (perpendicular) to the trusses every 2' OC. Not sure of another way
Thanks for the video. What is height if your first girt?
My bottom treated girt is a 2x12 and starts about 7”s below the top of the fished concrete. My next girt is a 2x6 and the center is 36”s up from the finished concrete.
The rest are 2’ on center the rest of the way up.
subbed and dang bell thing
I love how you do all the extra things to make the structure stronger and better. It's likely the last home you'll live in, so why not? Question: It looked like you didn't toenail the bookshelves into the outside girts. Is that because of the possibility of penetrating the outside steel, or is it just not necessary?
It’s not necessary all though it would have been nice to have had the time to put them in prior to putting the steel up and screwed them in through the outside girt.
There are some post frames that only have bookshelf girts and then all the outside and inside finishes are attached directly to the same girt.
@@MrPostFrame Good to know! Thanks, Paul!
@@MrPostFrame for a new 40x72 post frame build whats your thoughts on doing strictly book shelf girts for outside metal and drywall. Would save quite a bit of lumber with today's rising cost. Any downsides?
Did you also do the bookshelf girts in the living side?
No. Here's our framing playlist ua-cam.com/play/PL3QM32YjSVn30c5Um9TpbTrOakQDk8Z3L.html
Im sure you have told the audience before but i have not heard it, what are your plans for insulating? Spray foam i assume but just curious on inches, closed/open cell, ceiling, etc.
Love the videos
3” of closed cell then fill the rest of the space with bat insulation.
Could I do the inside girts as studs up and down if I do the 2x4's on the outside.Do you do any blocking between the inside girts to hang stuff later on your finished walls?
do you fasten the girts only on the post ends. the middle seems like they are flimsy. could you , instead, put them on before the outer skin then you could screw the girts to the wrap around 2x6's
Are you insulating the shop, walls??
I am just getting ready to start my build, 40#80#12 half in shop, half in 2 bedroom house
Yes I am. 3”s of closed cell Spray foam. Hopefully next week.
Thanks my Brother, I am getting my stuff all lined up, talked to bank today. Land and shell , doing the rest out of pocket looks like.
You know banks!!
Spike's Prospecting Equipment that’s awesome. Where are you located?
South Carolina, Spartanburg.
Deciding on building choice now, steel, red steel or post. Your post makes me want to go like yours, looks easier to finish. I have a thousand questions, LOL
To be honest!!!
Watching you and Kyle , has really inspired my old butt, to go for it.
My number on my channel, if you ever want to share knowledge??
Land view, drone from my channel
ua-cam.com/video/4sJjsrj2bh0/v-deo.html
I've thought about pocket holes on the ends and using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws instead of toenailing. It may require a tad bit more work, but it seems like it would be stronger than nails? I am getting a pole barn shop this summer and I'm seriously considering doing that. I'll need to check if that would pass inspection first of course.
If you put them in before the steel you can just screw them in through the outside girt. I just didn’t take the time.
@@MrPostFrame I hear ya. You're tackling a lot for sure.
The bookshelf girts are only attached at the ends? Not toenailed into the outside girts?
Correct. It definitely wouldn’t hurt anything if you toenailed them. I’m having closed cell spray foam put in so that will help me out. I would probably toenail them if I was doing bat insulation.
Did we miss you getting power inside?
Don't you lose a lot of the insulation efficiency here by putting wood based breaks in the insulation?
You always engineer things a step above. Thank you If I where to drywall Would I put a barrier between the edge of the drywall and cement or not Should I be concerned about wicking ?
I have a 6 mil vapor barrier under concrete so moisture should not be a problem. However I always set drywall up a small amount so it’s not sitting on the floor. Especially in the garage where your vehicles could bring water in.
Why use wood vs metal framing: pros and cons
Make a nice library, excuse me wheres the book on post beam construction it in a 4
Why you didn't do Framing: Bookshelf Girts on the main house, that make the house stronger
It’s a two story and I needed load bearing walls to hold the upstairs. It will make more sense when I start releasing the house interior framing videos.
The problem with bookshelf girts is you just created a ton of thermal bridges. I decided it was having all those thermal bridges wasn't worth the extra 3 inches of interior space.
I completely understand that.
My garage is the only place I am planning on the bookshelf girts. I wanted them for a couple reasons. One is the windows I ordered have pre installed jambs for a 7” wall so it would have created more work by putting interior girts on. Would have caused problems with my garage trims as well.
The house will be done differently.
✔✔👀👀😃👍👍👍👍