I bought my 1st boat this year and was nervous as heck about backing down the ramp without having to make correction after correction. Watched this tip and it was like magic the way the trailer tracked. Went from novice to looking like an old pro in a weekend. Thanks!
I m so glad I don t know it all and can learn from others like this man. Thanks and why didn t I think of that. Here s my tip. If you ever had tires and axle drop off bottom of ramp don t use engine to power it all back up. You will tear axle ( s ) and wheels off and that s like down the creek without a paddle. Instead back boat off trailer but keep bow at back of trailer using rope or buddy. Pull enough cable, rope or strap from winch to reach rear roller of trailer going under and up to bow boat eye. Slowly crank in and trailer will rise to boat eye. Then slowly pull up ramp till wheels will be back on concrete and not on bottom. One more. If anyone boats and beaches on tidal island or beach area and tide falls leaving boat high and mostly dry you don t have to wait till next high tide to float boat. Have buddy or helpful stranger back his boat as close to your transom as possible and still have water enough for his. Tie two short lines from stern eye to other. Have boat in water slowly engage prop forward and allow back wash to scour sand from under beached boat. It takes a little time and as hole deepens between boats more power and trim can be lowered as possible untill beached vessel slips rearward into deeper water. Helps if not all is totally beached but even fully dry vessel can be refloated in much less time than next high tide. Please be safe and considerate to others out there . Tight lines. 😊
Yes indeed! Good tip. This is something I always do backing my truck on a steep hill when heavily loaded. No need to assist gravity in those situations. It seems safer to me as well since it reduces any chance of accidental acceleration into the water and reduces the amount of brake pedal force required. However, the greatest boat ramp tip I have learned over the years; Launch during periods of low traffic. Significantly less stress from hectic, panicky feeling of a long line with cranky people (sometimes drunk and/or hungover people on holidays) and it reduces the chances of me making a stupid mistake and involuntarily starring on an episode of Credit Card Captain. :)
I go camping with a 1-ton pickup carrying a camper and pulling a boat - it's a diesel with automatic transmission. So there's quite a bit of weight on this outfit when backing down the ramps. When backing down the ramp, when the trailer axle crosses over onto the decline I put the transmission in neutral - the boat's weight will continue to pull the outfit back. Then when the drive axle (rear) of the pickup crosses onto the decline, I put the transmission into drive, and continue backing slowing down with that. It puts a lot less stress on the brakes. Then of course, when the boat floats from the bunks, the transmission goes into park and the park brakes are on while I deal with the winch/safety chain, etc. Has worked well for me for years. Drivers need to get used to managing the brake with their left foot while also feathering power as needed on the throttle with the right foot, the same as downshifting non-synchromesh heavy truck transmissions down hills.
@@AB-80X 22k.. 37 Grady White 375 Freedom Well over what I am supposed to tow. I only tow the boat 3 miles to get fuel and speed limit here is 30mph max. Skid steer is about 16k, closed trailers about 6k and flat trailer about 3k.
Try to get into drive as soon you can because that way your actually breaking. Plus if you come off line you can straighten or correct much quicker. It's also a safety precaution when someone is in the drivers seat and someone is at the back of the vehicle unlatching the boat your in drive going into park with all the breaks locked, the vehicle won't go back when you let off. The drive train is going in forward. Just remember if it's a really slick ramp you want the front brakes locked at all times.
I mean what ever helps I guess but I’m struggling to grasp the fact that its not a problem with not having enough braking power if ur brakes work as they should it’s a traction problem so being in drive N or reverse should not matter again if that helps u keep on keeping on
No. Disagree. While backing down a ramp the weight of the truck and trailer/boat will pull you back anyway through gravity. Your foot will be on the brake the whole time already. You’d be hard pressed to use the gas pedal backing down a ramp. Keeping it neutral will help prevent probable locking up and sliding in to the drink. 🇨🇦
Of course you want to be in neutral, how do you think all those vehicles end up in the drink on youtube... they are in reverse and drivers foot hit the gas, not the brake. or just as bad, both at the same time. Think it cant happen to you?... why risk it, your on a hill, you dont need power to go downhill.
not sure why anyone would want to be in reverse anyway., its precious seconds lost to recover and also im certain people forget they are in reverse and make it worse as a result lol
FYI , the reverse lockout feature is if you’re putting pressure on the surge brakes system, on a RAMP , the trailer is wanting to pull against the surge piston 😊
Poor advice. If your truck can’t stop your rig or you don’t have control, you need a bigger truck or your brakes are not designed for the load you’re towing.
@@titansfan2104 It is way worse to be in reverse. People panic or simply just hit the wrong pedal. You need to be in D as soon as the thing rolls on its own.
I bought my 1st boat this year and was nervous as heck about backing down the ramp without having to make correction after correction. Watched this tip and it was like magic the way the trailer tracked. Went from novice to looking like an old pro in a weekend. Thanks!
I m so glad I don t know it all and can learn from others like this man. Thanks and why didn t I think of that.
Here s my tip. If you ever had tires and axle drop off bottom of ramp don t use engine to power it all back up. You will tear axle ( s ) and wheels off and that s like down the creek without a paddle.
Instead back boat off trailer but keep bow at back of trailer using rope or buddy. Pull enough cable, rope or strap from winch to reach rear roller of trailer going under and up to bow boat eye. Slowly crank in and trailer will rise to boat eye. Then slowly pull up ramp till wheels will be back on concrete and not on bottom.
One more. If anyone boats and beaches on tidal island or beach area and tide falls leaving boat high and mostly dry you don t have to wait till next high tide to float boat.
Have buddy or helpful stranger back his boat as close to your transom as possible and still have water enough for his. Tie two short lines from stern eye to other.
Have boat in water slowly engage prop forward and allow back wash to scour sand from under beached boat. It takes a little time and as hole deepens between boats more power and trim can be lowered as possible untill beached vessel slips rearward into deeper water.
Helps if not all is totally beached but even fully dry vessel can be refloated in much less time than next high tide.
Please be safe and considerate to others out there .
Tight lines.
😊
Thank you for helping the boating community with some great tips and tricks!
Thank you will definitely have to do this next week at the ramp
Yes indeed! Good tip. This is something I always do backing my truck on a steep hill when heavily loaded. No need to assist gravity in those situations. It seems safer to me as well since it reduces any chance of accidental acceleration into the water and reduces the amount of brake pedal force required. However, the greatest boat ramp tip I have learned over the years; Launch during periods of low traffic. Significantly less stress from hectic, panicky feeling of a long line with cranky people (sometimes drunk and/or hungover people on holidays) and it reduces the chances of me making a stupid mistake and involuntarily starring on an episode of Credit Card Captain. :)
Wow, thank you sooo much for this tip! I’m so glad I clicked this video.
I go camping with a 1-ton pickup carrying a camper and pulling a boat - it's a diesel with automatic transmission. So there's quite a bit of weight on this outfit when backing down the ramps. When backing down the ramp, when the trailer axle crosses over onto the decline I put the transmission in neutral - the boat's weight will continue to pull the outfit back. Then when the drive axle (rear) of the pickup crosses onto the decline, I put the transmission into drive, and continue backing slowing down with that. It puts a lot less stress on the brakes. Then of course, when the boat floats from the bunks, the transmission goes into park and the park brakes are on while I deal with the winch/safety chain, etc. Has worked well for me for years.
Drivers need to get used to managing the brake with their left foot while also feathering power as needed on the throttle with the right foot, the same as downshifting non-synchromesh heavy truck transmissions down hills.
Great tip. I'll be sure to try this and see if it makes THE JEEP less squirrelly.
Thanks for posting this.
I've also seen someone say, if you have 4x4, use it. To get out the slime if slippery.
excellent tips
Will try this.
darn good idea ive doe this a few times years ago.
I've been doing this procedure for a long time.
Whoa, that is a steep ramp.
Rear tire traction is the most important aspect of controlling that descent. Once your tires hit that slimy moss or seaweed its as slippery as ice.
True.
Adding weight to the bed, deflate tires slightly and carry some sand bags, which double as traction and weight.
40 years driving boats and back down almost weekly...Never heard of that. Thank you I'll try it tomorrow
How did it go? :)
@@michaelm2725 I was out of town this weekend but will try it Tuesday when we go out.
@@Jassman3536
How big and heavy is your boat? This is great for light small boats, but can be a disaster for large heavy CC' and powerboats.
@@AB-80X 22k.. 37 Grady White 375 Freedom Well over what I am supposed to tow. I only tow the boat 3 miles to get fuel and speed limit here is 30mph max. Skid steer is about 16k, closed trailers about 6k and flat trailer about 3k.
Excellent
Excellent!
My 6 year old nephew would think of that. Mind, we do drive more manual transmissions here.
Brilliant 🙏🏼
30 years of trailering boats and ive never heard that.....makes total sense👍
So you don't put it in 4LO?
Try to get into drive as soon you can because that way your actually breaking. Plus if you come off line you can straighten or correct much quicker. It's also a safety precaution when someone is in the drivers seat and someone is at the back of the vehicle unlatching the boat your in drive going into park with all the breaks locked, the vehicle won't go back when you let off. The drive train is going in forward. Just remember if it's a really slick ramp you want the front brakes locked at all times.
I mean what ever helps I guess but I’m struggling to grasp the fact that its not a problem with not having enough braking power if ur brakes work as they should it’s a traction problem so being in drive N or reverse should not matter again if that helps u keep on keeping on
Til you forget until youre in neutral.
No. Disagree. While backing down a ramp the weight of the truck and trailer/boat will pull you back anyway through gravity. Your foot will be on the brake the whole time already. You’d be hard pressed to use the gas pedal backing down a ramp. Keeping it neutral will help prevent probable locking up and sliding in to the drink. 🇨🇦
Does a car in reverse move backwards slowly without your foot on the gas. If not, I don’t see how putting the car in neutral would help.
Keeping it in gear means keeping it in reverse, and even at idle is pulling the vehicle backwards.
@@internetjunkie1000 But it's easier to put back into D if needed.
I get the physics but neutral can be a dangerous habit on a slope, especially for new folks backing in a truck. Keep this as an optional one off.
Er... I've always done that, to reduce the chance of going too fast and into the water.
Of course you want to be in neutral, how do you think all those vehicles end up in the drink on youtube... they are in reverse and drivers foot hit the gas, not the brake. or just as bad, both at the same time. Think it cant happen to you?... why risk it, your on a hill, you dont need power to go downhill.
Duuuhhh!!!
not sure why anyone would want to be in reverse anyway., its precious seconds lost to recover and also im certain people forget they are in reverse and make it worse as a result lol
I don't know anyone who would be in reverse. As soon as it starts to roll on its own, you should be in D, not N.
Just put in low range 4x4
I have seen a tuck in the water floating because of this idea. Don't do it!
Well you saw that truck in the water because he left it in neutral lol. Obviously you don’t leave in neutral when you get out.
@@Mudcat3434Even if they leave it in Reverse also, its literally User Error Lol*
BS.... Most trailers that have brakes require the transmission to be in reverse in order to unlock..... Think about it....
FYI , the reverse lockout feature is if you’re putting pressure on the surge brakes system, on a RAMP , the trailer is wanting to pull against the surge piston 😊
Poor advice. If your truck can’t stop your rig or you don’t have control, you need a bigger truck or your brakes are not designed for the load you’re towing.
If you can’t back in a 20ft boat you don’t deserve to haul a boat.
After reading all the above, I can't agree more with yours; lol
Bad idea, good to end up in the lake with your truck! Never put your truck in neutral! Especially with a trailer hooked up
You do realize neutral is no more "dangerous" than having it in reverse? :)
Technically neutral would be safer when reversing down a ramp with an Automatic transmission
@@titansfan2104
It is way worse to be in reverse. People panic or simply just hit the wrong pedal.
You need to be in D as soon as the thing rolls on its own.
WOW NICE JOB