"She can't actually use a bench vise in the manner in which he prescribes" I had to pause the video cause that had me laughing so damned hard 🤣 Flawless!
You may not be an "electrician"; but you would be a hell of a instructor in any electrical, technical college. Oh indeed yes. Your ability to "explain" why, is FAR better than having a wall full of sheepskins and bore your students to death; like "watching paint dry"! Oh indeed yes. Thank you James for what you have done for us. NONE finer!
Your arguments about the filter placing make complete sense to me. And fall in line with my (many years old) experience with naval electronic equipment racks.
never cease to impress me, your attention to detail and thoughtful well researched presentation are frankly the best youtube has to offer i've ever found
I concur with you on the air flow. Only thing that would make it better if it was a pressurized system. Blowing fresh air into the box at a controlled rate would keep all contamination out. But pressurized systems are for highly flammable areas and probably overkill for what the objective is here.
I have built an electronics cabinet that uses positive air pressure, similar to yours. My cabinet was much larger, 32" x 72", and made of plywood. I used an intake filter that was originally intended for a 1970 Chevelle V8 engine. The filter is large enough to surround a small muffin fan that moves about 120 cfm into the cabinet. The cabinet is pressurized with clean air, thus preventing any dust particles entering via any opening in the cabinet. The air exits at the other end of the cabinet via a screened louver. It has worked very well for several years, as the interior of the cabinet and it's components are still squeaky clean. I change the filter every April 15. Most people that I show it to do not understand it, but I forgive them. I really appreciate your videos; I have learned much. Thank you.
Ditto. Don’t fully understand the theory but the demo was very convincing. Like the ways you find to get the point across. Would have made a great teacher.
Fans on the output are better because fans are much more efficent at pulling rather than pushing, this is why all modern HVAC systems have gone this way. Also a fan which is not assisted by a corresponding intake / exhaust fan ideally needs 8 times its surface area of free air flow, anything less than this is treated as a restriction and will reduce air transmission whilst increasing heat and noise. If you want positive pressure put a slightly larger fan on the intake. Really enjoy watching your videos some great content.
I’ve become a big fan of your channel. Clear, well produced videos. Very articulate. Very informative, even if the subject goes over my head. But.....you earned my lifetime subscription with the following quote: “She can’t actually use a bench vise in the manner in which he prescribes.” You sir, win the internet. 🤣
You are awesome!!!. Thank you for the lesson on induction. You were able to explain it so I can understand it. I've been struggling for a couple years trying to grasp inductance especially the use of ferrite. I wish you were my neighbor.
A few notes from an almost old sparky. The fuse holders 'should' be wired so the incoming power goes to the top for the exact reason you are hesitant to just grab the fuse and pull it out (National Electrical Code safety issue). With the in power at the top terminal you can see the fuse is disconnected from it and it is then safe to pull out. Although it is still a better idea to completely remove power from the equipment when changing fuses. Another note about the fuse holders is that your two holders for the incoming power for the drive\motor should be tied together so both are disconnected at the same time (again NEC thing). I thought there was something else I wanted to comment on with the electrical stuff but have since forgotten. The thing about these issues is that it is your equipment and you know how it is wired, so you know how to work on it safely. Anyway, you have a nice and clean set-up. I love the content you have provided and appreciate the time you put into your explanations. Keep up the good work and I will be patiently awaiting more to come on this upgrade to your mill.
I actually discovered your channel about a month or so ago thanks to The Algorithm, and thank goodness I did. Absolutely amazing content. Also, I don't think I have ever laughed so hard at a UA-cam video. Thanks for all you do.
I caught the comment of not parallel in the last video, it just made me laugh, NPT is an acronym and I will always dislike acronyms. To many are repeated for other items. Keep up the great work. I will be adding a 10k spindle some day to my mini mill. Currently, I am waiting on my igaging scales they shipped should be here Friday. TouchDRO was delivered today. Lee
i'd like to take the opportunity of correcting a couple of errors regarding fuses to thank you for your videos. love them. that being said, a fuse's role is to protect the wiring going away from it from heating and melting / burning. as you have noticed, it won't save the semiconductors (it never will). there are other ways to do that, and a decent VFD usually takes pretty good care of itself. another factor that should be taken into account is degradation of the fuse over time due to inrush current - all fuses degrade over time with applied current. check spec sheets. VFD's have rather high inrush current.
You are so good at communication...I would love to see you do videos explaining electronics starting with the basics. I don't know if you have ever been involved in the teaching profession but you have a gift.
Always informative as usual. Your sense of humor cracks me up. That bit about AVE was great (I still don't know what he means by that, makes me leary of vices). Looking forward to more in this series.
I have to say your demonstrations are amazing. They help me really understand what's going on. Thanks for offering so much info and interesting videos ontop of that!
Another great video! I saw somewhere, that replacing your filter with a fine metal mesh can further assist in blocking emi, and rf both ingress and egress (essentially creating a faraday cage). I’m in the middle of a build myself. An epoxy granite moving gantry. Your videos have been a great help.
yaaaay a new clough 42 video...it's a good day. :)...awesome video...learned a ton...thank you..getting ready to put an atc on my build...great explanation on the threading
I enjoy watching your videos! You do an awesome job, I know because I have an electrical engineering degree and worked on projects in places all over the world. Your logic and methods are pretty much as good as anyone I ever worked with. Are you sure you don't do this for a living? I ran the electrical dept for a big manufacturing company, I've worked in electrical design, done high voltage and computerized control rooms, motor control and instrumentation in huge chemical plants and I designed and built robotic controls for a new manufacturing facility for Rolls Royce. And I would say you are very sharp and knowledgeable with the projects I have watched you do on your chanel. Thanks for videoing and explaining what you do in such an easy and understanding way. It makes me smile to remember that I used to do these sort of things.....
Yup. You got the ventilation best-practice configured. Yup. At these lower spindle speeds, bearing noise will reduce as the lube warms up and spreads out into the bearings. Oh. “Talk to the hands, ‘cause the face ain’t listenin’!” That just struck me funny, watching your hands mirror your vocal expressions. No issue, because I have those off the walk thoughts at times... Very nice workmanship. I’m surprised, frankly, at all the chaff on this one. I couldn’t find fault with a single thing. Perfect, no. No such animal. But it was, without doubt an artful collection of decisions in the making of the assembly. Compromises are a requirement of all technical decision-making, all design, and all manufacturing. Thanks for your robust efforts.
James, I never miss a subscribed channels video, I have my browser set to open to my subscriptions and all it shows are videos from the channels I subscribe to. I can't stand going to what they call home, I don't have enough time in my life to watch the garbage they want me to watch. I'm referring to the links in the upper left hand corner of the UA-cam page. Don't understand why more people don't use this feature. As usual, another great video that's going to end up costing me a lot of money, just wanted to say thanks! :-)
Great show James! You keep at it! Btw, that arrangement where the wire runs in and out through the core is referred to as a common mode choke. It's ment to stop non-difderential (common mode) high frequency (noise) signals from passing through - a low pass filter in essence. You don't even need the core (but it does make the whole thing more effective) - it's standard practice in antenna systems to loop the coax a couple turns just below the antenna feed-point to stop HF coming back down the outside of the coax screen.
The ferrite quick explanation was good as at some point I will need to set up a 3-phase motor on a future project in the works, so thank you for that as I hope my VFD will live a "long and productive life." As for AvE, I would generally prefer to not use a bench vise in the manner in which he describes, even though I certainly could, lol.
Great video as always. It's beyond me that you don't have more subscribers considering the level of detail and quality of your content. And yes, I've clicked the bell icon a long time ago :)
I believe NPT is national pipe taper. As NP is national pipe ( a parallel thread ). I like your description as there is so many different thread pitches. Non parallel thread is a good description for a thread that self tightens as you do it up. Thanks for the video.
This conversation is getting even more interesting. It turns out the valve I showed is complete junk and it's going back. The threads in the valve bodies and in the manifold are NOT tapered (even though it's advertised as having pipe threads) so it's impossible to get even high-quality fittings to seal. I've honestly had pretty good luck with inexpensive import industrial components, but these valves are not among those successes.
NPT stands for National Pipe Taper. NPS for National Pipe Straight. Letters that follow refine it further, i.e. NPTF stands for Fuel or more commonly known as Dryseal. There are other letters such as C (Coupling or Conduit), L (Locknut), M (Mechanical), etc. Big Box stores use PT, which is technically NPT (non-Dryseal). National means they are governed by ANSI, and the actual Standards are created, monitored, and updated by ASME for ANSI.
Your coining the phrase "non parallel thread" demonstrates your genius. It is the way your brain works. When it is satisfied the the answer is sound it is placed in your memory banks and you use it as data for future use. You will be happy to know that is how Einsteins logic functioned as well.
Thank you for the description of how the bad angry pixies get into the motor bearings. I’ve seen accessories to add to standard garden variety motors (say on heating/cooling equipment) made by Aegis and similar. Basically a ring/circular brush that goes around the shaft to divert voltage to ground. They are pricey, but required when you have motors that can’t be down.
I really wish you went with the delta vfd, would have saved me a call to Alex with your thorough explenation. Great video, I'm in the process of switching my vfd to the delta with mach 3 control via breakout board and the s30c spindle offering from cnc depot
Think of it like car engines, where two engines might both generate 300 hp. One is a big V8 turning at 3000 rpm. The other is a small turbocharged 1.6 liter 4-cylinder that 's spinning at 7000 rpm. Power is a product of torque AND rpm, so size isn't an accurate representation of generated power.
@@midlanab4835 Also car vs. tractor-trailer ("semi") rigs: a car engine can output as a peak load what the tractor can output continuously. The car engine will burn up if you try to run it at peak for a few hours, while the semi can do it 24/7.
NPT is National Pipe Tapered. There is also NPS, National Pipe Straight, but I've never seen it. Some folks claim it's used for rigid electrical conduit, but electrical boxes, fittings, nipples, etc that are specifically for electrical use all have tapered threads in my experience, and nothing i found in the NEC specified NPS.
Speaking of algorithms. Way I think I'm working it without having to watch stuff I'm not immediately in the mood for is to add items to my 'Watch Later'. It seems to help get me out of the road rage video (or insert whatever other strange video I click on) rabbit hole without having to watch videos I'm not presently in the mood for. And then when I'm ready to kick back and veg for a bit I can just hit play.
Good tip. You have to be careful with that, though. It's pretty easy to accidentally add those videos to a public playlist. For a while, my ELS playlist had a Chess Boxing video from the ESPN 8 The Ocho in it. :)
I just check my subs page and watch the ones I find interesting instead of being click-baited by the youtube "recommended for you" page. I dont ever want notifications because my phone and computer keep distracting me with pop-ups and noises while I am trying to live my life and be productive. This video stuff really can wait till you have time to actually watch it......
After reading through the manual I saw the reference for using the RFI and EMI but how do you select the correct ferrite? I have the same VFD and the same rated motor.
About your mention of the fan on the inlet vs the outlet, both configurations have their potential problems and neither is right nor wrong. Technically, used as an exhaust vent fan will normally result in higher airflow rates since the fan is not having to generate positive pressure but as long as the components that you are trying to keep cool are actually staying in their working temp range and you are not getting any fluttering or chopping noise from the fan indicating surge (the potential problem with fan used as an inlet fan), then no need to worry about it not being a usable setup. Basically, when a fan is used on the inlet and has to generate positive pressure, the overall flow is reduced (Bernoulli's Principle... As pressure increases flow decreases). There is a risk of what is called surge where the flow basically stalls and reverses though the fan because of the pressure differential (higher pressure in the box vs the inside of the fan). When this occurs, it will make a fluttering or chopping sound. In compressor applications (like say gas turbine engines and turbochargers for example), surge can damage the blades (and will if left to occur long enough) and even cause the wheel to explode. If the fan is used as an exhaust configuration, then the reverse occurs (Again, Bernoulli's Principle, as pressure decreases, flow increases). The negative here can be airfoil stall just like an airplane wing can stall and no longer generate lift. If at some point, not enough air can reach the fan itself, would will get stall at the blades and the fan will can stop flowing air all together despite still spinning. So as said in the beginning, as long as the components are operating at a proper temp and no fluttering or chopping is being heard, then there is nothing to worry about with how you have it.
Slight positive pressure is best by far. You can get the airflow you need and control dust. Just make sure you have a small exhaust outlet at a strategic location.
so this is what the Hitachi manual says it should be wired. What does the Spindle manual says? does the spindle manual recommend some additional components?
I was wondering if you completed the pneumatic system as described. I'm debating on using the AirTAC 4V210-08, but I can't find the manifold you selected. Could you point me in the direction of that manifold.
On the topic of fuses I always point out they are not there to save your device, they are there for when your device fails and only to prevent a fire, its entirely possible for a thing to fail in a high impedance state and not trip a panel breaker
on the cooling system for the cabinet. you can still work with positive pressure and add a smaller/slower fan so to aid the exhaust of hot air. just have to make sure that the intake fan blows in more volume/pressure than the outtake can blow out.
I think in the end, if the VFD stays cool enough in operation, it's good enough. If not, I'll have to revisit. As with everything, it's not black-and-white. The higher the operating temperature, the shorter the lifetime of the capacitors in the VFD.
@@Clough42 yeah thats the point. you can always add a smaller exhaust fan. although i made that reply mostly for the folks talking about postive vs negative pressure. positive is the clear winner here, and if the current config happens to be insuficient, you add a smaller fan to help with the exhaust.
Great Q&A, and true engagement with your audience. It wasn't quite clear whether the purge air was mandatory, or indeed optional on this particular spindle motor in the first video. I have a recollection that some bearing seals were designed specifically to accommodate airflow, and running them without could cause them to overheat. It's good to know it is optional in this case. It sounds like you have great after sales support form Alex and his company. In the current climate of box shifting discount houses, or large established suppliers only wishing to deal with organisations (as opposed to the home gamer) that kind of relationship is worth its weight in gold. A quick note on the ceramic fuses. I'm sure you're aware that there are fakes out there, so I was wondering if you had dismantled a sample to see if they contain arc quenching media and that the fusible link is correctly terminated? Big Clive and others have covered this subject. "She can't actually use a bench vise in the manner in which he prescribes" I smell envy :) If you would like to stop her thinking that he's leading you into bad habits, introduce her to Chickadee Enginerding, the daughter channel. She may change her opinion.
I haven't cracked open the fuses. I have some spares, so perhaps I will. When you say there are fakes out there, do you mean I might not get the 200A AC TIG welder I ordered for $25?
@@Clough42 It might get stuck in customs, that's usually what I get told, or then again, that 70% duty cycle may have an extra zero (value) added :P The generous side of my nature says it is always a misinterpretation of the order. I hear from others that there are some unscrupulous sellers out there. Not all fakes are cheap btw.
In this case, I saw a $25 TIG welder with free shipping, and I ordered it, mostly out of curiosity to see what would arrive. Within 24 hours, I got a notice from eBay that they had suspended the seller's account due to "suspicious activity" and canceled the listing. Once the expected delivery date comes and goes, I'll file a claim and get my $25 back. Or, something will arrive and we'll have a look at it. Either way, I'm good. The fuses are worth looking at, though. I'd like to continue to have a shop.
@@Clough42 Sounds interesting. If it works out (sometimes there are genuine deals) then I hope you'll share the results. Caveat emptor as always, just like that 1080HD camera I ordered that turned out to be 360 and upscaled. In all seriousness, safety is something where we can lulled into a false belief. In the case of ceramic cartridge fuses and their carriers, the ones with no sand can go ballistic and shatter the carrier too. The supply tails are then exposed, or worse, short to something else. Personally, I'd only make savings, if any, on the carrier, and be 100% certain the fuse itself is correct. Stay safe.
Great videos. What is the misting system you use on your mill? Also could you do a video about the conversion of your mill to CNC and any advise for other doing the same. Thanks
How many times are you changing fuses? if they blow at start up your fuse is too small!!! That is crazy how many times anyone change fuses anywhere? In any cnc shop?
Regarding the electro-pneumatic valves, these can also be operated manually with the red button. In my experience, this button is super sensitive with certain brands. It looks as if these are set correct, but that is not always the case and the valve switches over even if this button moves less than a millimeter. Have you tried switching this manual button so that it is certainly in the correct position?
Would you provide the model number of the contactor you used in this build? This has been extremely helpful as I am in the process of setting up the same Hitachi VFD for my CNC router. Starting to read through the manual. thanks for all your posts.
It'll be interesting to see if the VFD gives you noise issues on the 485 wiring. It shouldn't. 2 wire 485 is pretty good. I'd use 2-wire, shielded twisted pair and ground the shield on only one end.
Great explanation on how UA-cam works. However I have been noticing a handful of Channels I watch regularly that I'm not always getting notified. I have the bell clicked. So I thinks there is still an issue with the system. Just an FYI
PV=nRT. For constant volume (V) the temperature of a gas (T) is proportional to its absolute pressure (P). By reducing the pressure in the box, you reduce the temperature in the box so that heat transfer to the gas is quicker. Alternately, by increasing the pressure and temperature in the box, you make the heat transfer slower. Keep in mind, however, that these fans are not exactly vacuum pumps or air compressors; frequently there are other overarching considerations.
These are very low pressure fans; delta P and T are not significant. For a 120-PSI air compressor, they would be significant; the compressors have heat sink fins and cooling fans for good reason.
James, excuse me please. Quick question about the WJ200. Is there any way to program the up & down arrows to adjust the running speed in operation or would I need a remote operator with pot such as you have? TIA
So you switched from the Tormach tts holder system to iso30 from what I can see correct? What are your thoughts on that? Kind od curious what made you go with iso30 over bt30 for example
Hi I am a Clough42 UA-cam subscriber. Thanks a lot for the technical information. I am an amateur maker. I am collecting information to try to install ATC on my own CNC. We are reviewing the FM30C model. I have one question. I wonder if the air supplied to Case Pressurization should always be supplied when the spindle is operating. I am curious about the role of air supplied to Case Pressurization. I don't speak English, so please understand the context is bad.
In respect to the fan being the intake, you should have an exhaust port at least (minimum) 4X the fan's cross sectional dims. This reduces the air flow header of the enclosure thus more efficient air flow and of course the fan doesn't have to work so hard
Those RS485 adapters, surely they need a ground connection between the VFD and computer? If not, there could be a large common mode voltage difference?
It's a differential signal. No ground. And yes, there can be a common mode voltage. The receiver and driver section of the transceiver should be galvanically isolated to accommodate this.
@@Clough42 RS485 is differential, so the data is immune to noise but the receivers are not necessarily able to subtract those signals superimposed on any arbitrary common mode voltage. Check the datasheets to be sure. If you can not somehow guarantee that the commom mode voltage is inside the receiver's operating range then you should use galvancically isolated RS485 transceiver instead. If the tcvrs are not isolated and the grounds are "just there" because of other purposes, like earthing, other signal's ground, some other DC power ground, digital ground, etc., you might get common mode transients on the RS485 lines depending on the activity or noise on the grounds.
@@Clough42 RS485 receivers are not totally magic; they can reject a certain amount of common mode voltage -- until they blow because you applied more than they can stand. Which might be +/-25V, 40V, somewhere in there, see the datasheet. You NEED a ground connection and ideally it should pass through the same common-mode choke; you just don't need to reduce noise below 0.5-to-a-few volts or whatever a single-ended (non-differential) input would require.
Hi! I need your help for something. I buy a large ferrite to use it like you for the spindle. I was careless and I dropped it down and ... break it in two pieces. If I cover it with some electrician tape will it still efective? What do you think?
@@Clough42 I know you have gotten some unwarranted criticism after your last video and are taking a little break, I am very sorry to hear that. I have learned a lot from your videos and hope you come back to it soon. I am very interested in going down this path with my slightly larger PM-30 conversion and love the look and specs of this spindle. Any chance you have completed mounting the spindle and done some test cuts? I'm anxious to see if this "router type" spindle cartridge is a contender over just replacing my anemic and slow motor that I have now
Correction to your correction. Air fittings are typically NOT NPT,(National Pipe Tapered) they are usually parallel and require an seal ring . typically BSP(British Standard Pipe ) specifically BSPP british standard pipe PARALLEL vs BSPT (tapered). US amateur brewers get to find this out when attempting to fit a electric water heater element to a 1" NPT thread.For some reason, US water heaters adopted the BSPP standard for water heater electric elements. Import Air fittings are more commonly made with BSP, US made air fittings vary a little, but also use BSP a bunch
There are lots of different kinds of fittings. My advice based on experience is to buy valves and fittings with detailed descriptions that clearly call out the types of threads they use. I would also advise checking the threads with a pitch gauge. 1/4" NPT fittings are 18TPI. BSP fittings are 19TPI.
I will feel more comfortable recommending it once I get it cutting and have a valid opinion. At the time this video went up, it wasn't actually for sale yet and there was nothing to link.
Ref the fan comment, did the comment mean the fan would work better in the vertical plane as they’re not thrust bearings but roller bearings 🤷🤷🤷 maybe very interesting watching your vids 👍
You probably got the term parallel from BSPP threads (British Standard Parallel Pipe), which is a non-tapered pipe thread. Logically you might call tapered thread non-parallel.
For RS-485, allow for the (I think high) likelihood that someone who had everything plugged into the same power strip -- which provides a common ground -- developed and sold this, cheap. There is a ground, it's just in the background. Otherwise, you will want to arrange for isolation (opto- or other) or ensure there is a common ground some other way. RS-485 transceivers are not magic; they will handle probably somewhere between 25V and 40V (see the data sheet!) on pins before blowing up.
Yeah...the modbus spec calls for a common wire in the network, connected to a safety ground at one point, but neither the USB transceivers I have nor the VFD have any provision for this (or mention it in the documentation). Luckily, I'm running everything from a single electrical panel, so I expect it'll be fine when I finally get around to it.
"Chatter" that you hear in spindle.. This is from bearing cage. Spindles for low load design, like woodworking etc, usually have top two bearings spring loaded. And they move up and down in housing of spindle. To move up and down and keep constant preload, bearings are not very tight fit into spindle. So when spindle is cold, bearings vibrate little bit in housing, this vibration is then transmitted onto bearing cage, which then starts making those sounds at ceartin rpm. Usually when spindle is up to temperature, bearings are grabbed into housing, and this sound stops. It is annoying, but not critical. Also as manufacturer suggested, grease not evenly distributed can distrurb cage and throw it into resonance at certain rpm.
hhhmmmm, how curious. you subsribed to AvE and suddently your camera doesn't want to focus. well, at least you know the magic words to make it focus now hahahaahahaha.
I had actually thought about that. It's actually a new camera (Sony a7iii) and I'm playing around with focus settings and depth of field. In this case, I was too close to the lens and didn't notice until the edit.
@@minskmade it's a nice camera--especially with a macro lens. I think I have a workflow sorted out now with a Bluetooth remote to adjust and lock the focus as needed. We'll see how it goes.
The problem is: if You connect it that way, then risk is that a voltage is induced due to the setup. Then You get a slightly distorted voltage. Note You should turn the wire around the ferrite. They are not intended to simply go over the wire. It seems You turn 3 times around the core with each wire? How much power is going through these wires and how fast these voltages switch on and off? Power on an ring core leaves always something behind, Your theory was ok but any current going in a ring core will have some influence on the other cables. I will connect that way using low voltage but never connect when using high voltage and higher power . And the funny part is , so the power is induced and travels around the core and the second wire generates also a power the third also but soon or late these waves collide and that's called a standing wave , known for destroying equipment. 3 turns on low voltage and power will not create a problem, but at 220V at 8Amp sure 3 turns is enough to start the ring core gizmo. The isolation on the wire is thicker so the gizmo will stay lower comped with thin isolation but wait till induced power hits back. In your explanation 4 micro amp induced but if You start with 220V at 8 Amp trough the wire, I would rethink the theory between induced power and real power feeding to a ring core. Cause both have a completely other result . And Your Hitachi VFD will sure not like it , fuses are simply too late to act cause most fuses in a home are overloading protection but they are slower. There is one short circuit fuse at the mains counter. This will trigger cause after destroying and electrical device there is usual short circuit. . At short circuit, the overloading fuse will also trigger since the ac wire is getting hot.
Extraction works better, as the fan is dumping into a large plenum, open air. With a fan on the inlet overcoming the slight restriction, of the case, causes loss at the fan, giving less flow. There is some flow loss due to grill/filter restriction, to balance those, one would have the inlet size ~1.25 x outlet size. I'm a retired ventilation type. Cheers
@@Clough42 In a word, yes. You should accommodate for the edge gap on door plus a little larger exhaust opening, than the intake, to further reduce restriction to as low as is reasonable. This will also help the fan efficiency, less pressure equals less chance of blade stall, as these are tube-axial not vane-axial fans. Cheers
This is not the same design region as HVAC, in which long ducts are used and the flow pressure losses in them are significant; in HVAC, ducts are expensive and should not be excessively over-sized primarily for economic reasons. Here, what matters is enough flow to prevent heat build-up and keeping dust and debris out, including at the various small openings in the case, seams in the case, gaps around wires, the space between wires in cables, etc.
I know you're working on many projects, but I was going to suggest you give LinuxCNC a try. Having used both now, while LinuxCNC can have a steeper learning curve I sure think it offers more functionality as well as ease of use. Not ease of setup. :) But once you start to see how LinuxCNC works, and gives a good upgrade path with the Mesa cards for more than can be done with a parallel port, I think you'd never look back. Regardless, you know I'll be watching this series with great interest. My PM25 has been relegated to also-ran status now with a Tormach PCNC1100 and an 1100MX occopying space in the hangar. But I may revisit it for smaller operations, and this spindle upgrade is just what I'd want for it!
![ATC Spindle Part 10: ATC Interlock and E-STOP wiring [REUPLOAD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PBzH1xR9PGI/mqdefault.jpg)
"She can't actually use a bench vise in the manner in which he prescribes"
I had to pause the video cause that had me laughing so damned hard 🤣 Flawless!
You may not be an "electrician"; but you would be a hell of a instructor in any electrical, technical college. Oh indeed yes. Your ability to "explain" why, is FAR better than having a wall full of sheepskins and bore your students to death; like "watching paint dry"! Oh indeed yes. Thank you James for what you have done for us. NONE finer!
Positive pressure is always the way to go! Decades of pc building to base that on.
Your arguments about the filter placing make complete sense to me. And fall in line with my (many years old) experience with naval electronic equipment racks.
never cease to impress me, your attention to detail and thoughtful well researched presentation are frankly the best youtube has to offer i've ever found
Thank you!
Your explanation of the air flow in and out of the case is totally correct, and so is your installation of the fan and outlet vent.
I concur with you on the air flow. Only thing that would make it better if it was a pressurized system. Blowing fresh air into the box at a controlled rate would keep all contamination out. But pressurized systems are for highly flammable areas and probably overkill for what the objective is here.
@@dannywilsher4165 How is that different from a fan with a filter blowing into the case? Are you thinking fresh air from a remote source?
I have built an electronics cabinet that uses positive air pressure, similar to yours. My cabinet was much larger, 32" x 72", and made of plywood. I used an intake filter that was originally intended for a 1970 Chevelle V8 engine. The filter is large enough to surround a small muffin fan that moves about 120 cfm into the cabinet. The cabinet is pressurized with clean air, thus preventing any dust particles entering via any opening in the cabinet. The air exits at the other end of the cabinet via a screened louver. It has worked very well for several years, as the interior of the cabinet and it's components are still squeaky clean. I change the filter every April 15. Most people that I show it to do not understand it, but I forgive them.
I really appreciate your videos; I have learned much. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate how the ferite works with a meter. I'm very interested in seeing the 485 interfacing.
Ditto. Don’t fully understand the theory but the demo was very convincing. Like the ways you find to get the point across. Would have made a great teacher.
Fans on the output are better because fans are much more efficent at pulling rather than pushing, this is why all modern HVAC systems have gone this way. Also a fan which is not assisted by a corresponding intake / exhaust fan ideally needs 8 times its surface area of free air flow, anything less than this is treated as a restriction and will reduce air transmission whilst increasing heat and noise. If you want positive pressure put a slightly larger fan on the intake.
Really enjoy watching your videos some great content.
I’ve become a big fan of your channel. Clear, well produced videos. Very articulate. Very informative, even if the subject goes over my head. But.....you earned my lifetime subscription with the following quote: “She can’t actually use a bench vise in the manner in which he prescribes.”
You sir, win the internet. 🤣
Thanks! I just read your comment to her, and she's laughing. Well done.
So look forward to RS-485 video! And thanks for other clear explanations)
You are awesome!!!. Thank you for the lesson on induction. You were able to explain it so I can understand it. I've been struggling for a couple years trying to grasp inductance especially the use of ferrite.
I wish you were my neighbor.
probably better you’re NOT my neighbor - you’d never get a minute of peace!
A few notes from an almost old sparky. The fuse holders 'should' be wired so the incoming power goes to the top for the exact reason you are hesitant to just grab the fuse and pull it out (National Electrical Code safety issue). With the in power at the top terminal you can see the fuse is disconnected from it and it is then safe to pull out. Although it is still a better idea to completely remove power from the equipment when changing fuses. Another note about the fuse holders is that your two holders for the incoming power for the drive\motor should be tied together so both are disconnected at the same time (again NEC thing). I thought there was something else I wanted to comment on with the electrical stuff but have since forgotten. The thing about these issues is that it is your equipment and you know how it is wired, so you know how to work on it safely.
Anyway, you have a nice and clean set-up. I love the content you have provided and appreciate the time you put into your explanations. Keep up the good work and I will be patiently awaiting more to come on this upgrade to your mill.
I actually discovered your channel about a month or so ago thanks to The Algorithm, and thank goodness I did. Absolutely amazing content. Also, I don't think I have ever laughed so hard at a UA-cam video. Thanks for all you do.
I caught the comment of not parallel in the last video, it just made me laugh, NPT is an acronym and I will always dislike acronyms. To many are repeated for other items. Keep up the great work. I will be adding a 10k spindle some day to my mini mill. Currently, I am waiting on my igaging scales they shipped should be here Friday. TouchDRO was delivered today.
Lee
I like the "positive" pressure concept.
We also built PCs based on this concept.
Kind regards
i'd like to take the opportunity of correcting a couple of errors regarding fuses to thank you for your videos. love them.
that being said, a fuse's role is to protect the wiring going away from it from heating and melting / burning.
as you have noticed, it won't save the semiconductors (it never will). there are other ways to do that, and a decent VFD usually takes pretty good care of itself.
another factor that should be taken into account is degradation of the fuse over time due to inrush current - all fuses degrade over time with applied current. check spec sheets. VFD's have rather high inrush current.
You are so good at communication...I would love to see you do videos explaining electronics starting with the basics. I don't know if you have ever been involved in the teaching profession but you have a gift.
Your fan location, placement and flow direction is excellent! Keep doing the same! Cheers!
Always informative as usual. Your sense of humor cracks me up. That bit about AVE was great (I still don't know what he means by that, makes me leary of vices). Looking forward to more in this series.
I have to say your demonstrations are amazing. They help me really understand what's going on. Thanks for offering so much info and interesting videos ontop of that!
Another great video! I saw somewhere, that replacing your filter with a fine metal mesh can further assist in blocking emi, and rf both ingress and egress (essentially creating a faraday cage). I’m in the middle of a build myself. An epoxy granite moving gantry. Your videos have been a great help.
Come on people ring James' bell! Thanks for sharing your time and answering questions.
yaaaay a new clough 42 video...it's a good day. :)...awesome video...learned a ton...thank you..getting ready to put an atc on my build...great explanation on the threading
I enjoy watching your videos! You do an awesome job, I know because I have an electrical engineering degree and worked on projects in places all over the world. Your logic and methods are pretty much as good as anyone I ever worked with. Are you sure you don't do this for a living? I ran the electrical dept for a big manufacturing company, I've worked in electrical design, done high voltage and computerized control rooms, motor control and instrumentation in huge chemical plants and I designed and built robotic controls for a new manufacturing facility for Rolls Royce. And I would say you are very sharp and knowledgeable with the projects I have watched you do on your chanel. Thanks for videoing and explaining what you do in such an easy and understanding way. It makes me smile to remember that I used to do these sort of things.....
Yup. You got the ventilation best-practice configured.
Yup. At these lower spindle speeds, bearing noise will reduce as the lube warms up and spreads out into the bearings.
Oh. “Talk to the hands, ‘cause the face ain’t listenin’!” That just struck me funny, watching your hands mirror your vocal expressions.
No issue, because I have those off the walk thoughts at times...
Very nice workmanship.
I’m surprised, frankly, at all the chaff on this one.
I couldn’t find fault with a single thing. Perfect, no. No such animal. But it was, without doubt an artful collection of decisions in the making of the assembly.
Compromises are a requirement of all technical decision-making, all design, and all manufacturing.
Thanks for your robust efforts.
Your work and effort deserve more viewers. Kudos!
I tell everyone that UDP is the Unreliable Datagram Protocol. Great content!
James, I never miss a subscribed channels video, I have my browser set to open to my subscriptions and all it shows are videos from the channels I subscribe to. I can't stand going to what they call home, I don't have enough time in my life to watch the garbage they want me to watch. I'm referring to the links in the upper left hand corner of the UA-cam page. Don't understand why more people don't use this feature. As usual, another great video that's going to end up costing me a lot of money, just wanted to say thanks! :-)
Yeah, this seems to work pretty well. I use the subscription view as well.
Great show James! You keep at it!
Btw, that arrangement where the wire runs in and out through the core is referred to as a common mode choke. It's ment to stop non-difderential (common mode) high frequency (noise) signals from passing through - a low pass filter in essence. You don't even need the core (but it does make the whole thing more effective) - it's standard practice in antenna systems to loop the coax a couple turns just below the antenna feed-point to stop HF coming back down the outside of the coax screen.
The ferrite quick explanation was good as at some point I will need to set up a 3-phase motor on a future project in the works, so thank you for that as I hope my VFD will live a "long and productive life." As for AvE, I would generally prefer to not use a bench vise in the manner in which he describes, even though I certainly could, lol.
Great video as always.
It's beyond me that you don't have more subscribers considering the level of detail and quality of your content. And yes, I've clicked the bell icon a long time ago :)
Feel free to tell all your friends!
I believe NPT is national pipe taper. As NP is national pipe ( a parallel thread ). I like your description as there is so many different thread pitches. Non parallel thread is a good description for a thread that self tightens as you do it up. Thanks for the video.
This conversation is getting even more interesting. It turns out the valve I showed is complete junk and it's going back. The threads in the valve bodies and in the manifold are NOT tapered (even though it's advertised as having pipe threads) so it's impossible to get even high-quality fittings to seal. I've honestly had pretty good luck with inexpensive import industrial components, but these valves are not among those successes.
NPT stands for National Pipe Taper. NPS for National Pipe Straight. Letters that follow refine it further, i.e. NPTF stands for Fuel or more commonly known as Dryseal. There are other letters such as C (Coupling or Conduit), L (Locknut), M (Mechanical), etc. Big Box stores use PT, which is technically NPT (non-Dryseal). National means they are governed by ANSI, and the actual Standards are created, monitored, and updated by ASME for ANSI.
Ha! I looked it up and still got it wrong. :)
I agree 100% with your assessment on the ventilation. Filtered air. Positive pressure. Best practice. Efficiency be damned.
Oops, forgot about box sealing, was more addressing fan efficiency. I agree on this part as well. Too early in the morning.
Cheers
No problem. I honestly don't mind the technical discussions at all. No matter how it comes out, it's a chance to reevaluate what I'm doing and why.
I have the same VFD, could you point me to the large ferrite you installed? Thank you
Your coining the phrase "non parallel thread" demonstrates your genius. It is the way your brain works. When it is satisfied the the answer is sound it is placed in your memory banks and you use it as data for future use. You will be happy to know that is how Einsteins logic functioned as well.
Thank you for the description of how the bad angry pixies get into the motor bearings. I’ve seen accessories to add to standard garden variety motors (say on heating/cooling equipment) made by Aegis and similar. Basically a ring/circular brush that goes around the shaft to divert voltage to ground. They are pricey, but required when you have motors that can’t be down.
Oh, that sounds cool. I haven't seen one, but that would make sense in an industrial environment.
Clough42 have a google for aegis shaft grounding rings. They have some good info on their website.
I agree. In production we never ran with and empty spindle. Or chuck for that matter.
Great videos however.
I really wish you went with the delta vfd, would have saved me a call to Alex with your thorough explenation. Great video, I'm in the process of switching my vfd to the delta with mach 3 control via breakout board and the s30c spindle offering from cnc depot
It is amazing that little motor can deliver 3 HP. I have a mill motor with 3 HP and it is several times that size.
It's amazing. I think the high RPM increases the power density significantly vs an 1800 or 3600RPM motor.
@@Clough42 I would guess the 400Hz also plays a big part. Just look at the transformer sizes between a 60Hz linear supply vs a 2kHz switching supply.
Think of it like car engines, where two engines might both generate 300 hp. One is a big V8 turning at 3000 rpm. The other is a small turbocharged 1.6 liter 4-cylinder that 's spinning at 7000 rpm. Power is a product of torque AND rpm, so size isn't an accurate representation of generated power.
I think that one function of the air pressurization is to carry away heat.
@@midlanab4835 Also car vs. tractor-trailer ("semi") rigs: a car engine can output as a peak load what the tractor can output continuously. The car engine will burn up if you try to run it at peak for a few hours, while the semi can do it 24/7.
Very good explanation of the use of the inductors.
Thanks!
NPT is National Pipe Tapered.
There is also NPS, National Pipe Straight, but I've never seen it. Some folks claim it's used for rigid electrical conduit, but electrical boxes, fittings, nipples, etc that are specifically for electrical use all have tapered threads in my experience, and nothing i found in the NEC specified NPS.
Speaking of algorithms. Way I think I'm working it without having to watch stuff I'm not immediately in the mood for is to add items to my 'Watch Later'. It seems to help get me out of the road rage video (or insert whatever other strange video I click on) rabbit hole without having to watch videos I'm not presently in the mood for. And then when I'm ready to kick back and veg for a bit I can just hit play.
Good tip. You have to be careful with that, though. It's pretty easy to accidentally add those videos to a public playlist. For a while, my ELS playlist had a Chess Boxing video from the ESPN 8 The Ocho in it. :)
@@Clough42 Good warning! Might want to have a separate account for personal use.
I just check my subs page and watch the ones I find interesting instead of being click-baited by the youtube "recommended for you" page. I dont ever want notifications because my phone and computer keep distracting me with pop-ups and noises while I am trying to live my life and be productive. This video stuff really can wait till you have time to actually watch it......
After reading through the manual I saw the reference for using the RFI and EMI but how do you select the correct ferrite? I have the same VFD and the same rated motor.
About your mention of the fan on the inlet vs the outlet, both configurations have their potential problems and neither is right nor wrong. Technically, used as an exhaust vent fan will normally result in higher airflow rates since the fan is not having to generate positive pressure but as long as the components that you are trying to keep cool are actually staying in their working temp range and you are not getting any fluttering or chopping noise from the fan indicating surge (the potential problem with fan used as an inlet fan), then no need to worry about it not being a usable setup.
Basically, when a fan is used on the inlet and has to generate positive pressure, the overall flow is reduced (Bernoulli's Principle... As pressure increases flow decreases). There is a risk of what is called surge where the flow basically stalls and reverses though the fan because of the pressure differential (higher pressure in the box vs the inside of the fan). When this occurs, it will make a fluttering or chopping sound. In compressor applications (like say gas turbine engines and turbochargers for example), surge can damage the blades (and will if left to occur long enough) and even cause the wheel to explode.
If the fan is used as an exhaust configuration, then the reverse occurs (Again, Bernoulli's Principle, as pressure decreases, flow increases). The negative here can be airfoil stall just like an airplane wing can stall and no longer generate lift. If at some point, not enough air can reach the fan itself, would will get stall at the blades and the fan will can stop flowing air all together despite still spinning.
So as said in the beginning, as long as the components are operating at a proper temp and no fluttering or chopping is being heard, then there is nothing to worry about with how you have it.
One word, awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Incredible information! Thank you for sharing!
Slight positive pressure is best by far. You can get the airflow you need and control dust. Just make sure you have a small exhaust outlet at a strategic location.
so this is what the Hitachi manual says it should be wired. What does the Spindle manual says? does the spindle manual recommend some additional components?
I was wondering if you completed the pneumatic system as described. I'm debating on using the AirTAC 4V210-08, but I can't find the manifold you selected. Could you point me in the direction of that manifold.
On the topic of fuses I always point out they are not there to save your device, they are there for when your device fails and only to prevent a fire, its entirely possible for a thing to fail in a high impedance state and not trip a panel breaker
I often find that the device fails first and saves the fuse. :)
Where did you buy the spindle?
In the quick reference manual it states: "The carrier frequency setting must be 2 kHz to satisfy EMC requirements" Thoughts?
I thought it NPT stood for National Pipe Taper, there is also NPS National Pipe Straight.
on the cooling system for the cabinet. you can still work with positive pressure and add a smaller/slower fan so to aid the exhaust of hot air. just have to make sure that the intake fan blows in more volume/pressure than the outtake can blow out.
I think in the end, if the VFD stays cool enough in operation, it's good enough. If not, I'll have to revisit. As with everything, it's not black-and-white. The higher the operating temperature, the shorter the lifetime of the capacitors in the VFD.
@@Clough42 yeah thats the point. you can always add a smaller exhaust fan. although i made that reply mostly for the folks talking about postive vs negative pressure. positive is the clear winner here, and if the current config happens to be insuficient, you add a smaller fan to help with the exhaust.
Can also stack intake fans.
I love it! nice work
UA-cam’s subscription page works for me. Homepage is just if you’re really bored.
Great Q&A, and true engagement with your audience.
It wasn't quite clear whether the purge air was mandatory, or indeed optional on this particular spindle motor in the first video. I have a recollection that some bearing seals were designed specifically to accommodate airflow, and running them without could cause them to overheat. It's good to know it is optional in this case.
It sounds like you have great after sales support form Alex and his company. In the current climate of box shifting discount houses, or large established suppliers only wishing to deal with organisations (as opposed to the home gamer) that kind of relationship is worth its weight in gold.
A quick note on the ceramic fuses. I'm sure you're aware that there are fakes out there, so I was wondering if you had dismantled a sample to see if they contain arc quenching media and that the fusible link is correctly terminated? Big Clive and others have covered this subject.
"She can't actually use a bench vise in the manner in which he prescribes"
I smell envy :)
If you would like to stop her thinking that he's leading you into bad habits, introduce her to Chickadee Enginerding, the daughter channel. She may change her opinion.
I haven't cracked open the fuses. I have some spares, so perhaps I will. When you say there are fakes out there, do you mean I might not get the 200A AC TIG welder I ordered for $25?
@@Clough42 It might get stuck in customs, that's usually what I get told, or then again, that 70% duty cycle may have an extra zero (value) added :P
The generous side of my nature says it is always a misinterpretation of the order. I hear from others that there are some unscrupulous sellers out there. Not all fakes are cheap btw.
In this case, I saw a $25 TIG welder with free shipping, and I ordered it, mostly out of curiosity to see what would arrive. Within 24 hours, I got a notice from eBay that they had suspended the seller's account due to "suspicious activity" and canceled the listing. Once the expected delivery date comes and goes, I'll file a claim and get my $25 back. Or, something will arrive and we'll have a look at it. Either way, I'm good. The fuses are worth looking at, though. I'd like to continue to have a shop.
@@Clough42 Sounds interesting. If it works out (sometimes there are genuine deals) then I hope you'll share the results. Caveat emptor as always, just like that 1080HD camera I ordered that turned out to be 360 and upscaled.
In all seriousness, safety is something where we can lulled into a false belief. In the case of ceramic cartridge fuses and their carriers, the ones with no sand can go ballistic and shatter the carrier too. The supply tails are then exposed, or worse, short to something else. Personally, I'd only make savings, if any, on the carrier, and be 100% certain the fuse itself is correct. Stay safe.
Looks like the purge air travels through the motor; likely a secondary function is to provide clean airflow to cool the motor.
Great videos. What is the misting system you use on your mill? Also could you do a video about the conversion of your mill to CNC and any advise for other doing the same. Thanks
The customer service from the CNC depo sounds to be pretty good.
It's so shiny I love it and small too
How many times are you changing fuses? if they blow at start up your fuse is too small!!! That is crazy how many times anyone change fuses anywhere? In any cnc shop?
I've never changed a fuse. They're there for if (when) things go wrong, to prevent something worse.
@@Clough42 Sorry, I understood that you change them often.
is it advisable to use ferrites on DC stepper motor leads?
Can you post the model of the motor contactor you are using? Is it a 24VDC coil?
Can it mill steel and titan?
Regarding the electro-pneumatic valves, these can also be operated manually with the red button. In my experience, this button is super sensitive with certain brands. It looks as if these are set correct, but that is not always the case and the valve switches over even if this button moves less than a millimeter. Have you tried switching this manual button so that it is certainly in the correct position?
Would you provide the model number of the contactor you used in this build? This has been extremely helpful as I am in the process of setting up the same Hitachi VFD for my CNC router. Starting to read through the manual. thanks for all your posts.
It'll be interesting to see if the VFD gives you noise issues on the 485 wiring. It shouldn't. 2 wire 485 is pretty good. I'd use 2-wire, shielded twisted pair and ground the shield on only one end.
Yes. This is the recommended configuration.
James
Could you give a source for the cable channel you used for routing your cables in that cabinet?
John
Panduit used to make one version. See Thingiverse for a few 3D-printed versions of varying sizes, stiffness, etc.
Great explanation on how UA-cam works. However I have been noticing a handful of Channels I watch regularly that I'm not always getting notified. I have the bell clicked. So I thinks there is still an issue with the system. Just an FYI
i'm excited for this project
PV=nRT. For constant volume (V) the temperature of a gas (T) is proportional to its absolute pressure (P). By reducing the pressure in the box, you reduce the temperature in the box so that heat transfer to the gas is quicker. Alternately, by increasing the pressure and temperature in the box, you make the heat transfer slower. Keep in mind, however, that these fans are not exactly vacuum pumps or air compressors; frequently there are other overarching considerations.
These are very low pressure fans; delta P and T are not significant.
For a 120-PSI air compressor, they would be significant; the compressors have heat sink fins and cooling fans for good reason.
James, excuse me please. Quick question about the WJ200.
Is there any way to program the up & down arrows to adjust the running speed in operation or would I need a remote operator with pot such as you have?
TIA
So you switched from the Tormach tts holder system to iso30 from what I can see correct? What are your thoughts on that?
Kind od curious what made you go with iso30 over bt30 for example
Hi
I am a Clough42 UA-cam subscriber.
Thanks a lot for the technical information.
I am an amateur maker.
I am collecting information to try to install ATC on my own CNC.
We are reviewing the FM30C model.
I have one question.
I wonder if the air supplied to Case Pressurization should always be supplied when the spindle is operating.
I am curious about the role of air supplied to Case Pressurization.
I don't speak English, so please understand the context is bad.
Just curious when you will be back to this project? I’m really interested in this upgrade to your mill
In respect to the fan being the intake, you should have an exhaust port at least (minimum) 4X the fan's cross sectional dims. This reduces the air flow header of the enclosure thus more efficient air flow and of course the fan doesn't have to work so hard
Those RS485 adapters, surely they need a ground connection between the VFD and computer? If not, there could be a large common mode voltage difference?
It's a differential signal. No ground. And yes, there can be a common mode voltage. The receiver and driver section of the transceiver should be galvanically isolated to accommodate this.
@@Clough42 RS485 is differential, so the data is immune to noise but the receivers are not necessarily able to subtract those signals superimposed on any arbitrary common mode voltage. Check the datasheets to be sure. If you can not somehow guarantee that the commom mode voltage is inside the receiver's operating range then you should use galvancically isolated RS485 transceiver instead. If the tcvrs are not isolated and the grounds are "just there" because of other purposes, like earthing, other signal's ground, some other DC power ground, digital ground, etc., you might get common mode transients on the RS485 lines depending on the activity or noise on the grounds.
@@Clough42 RS485 receivers are not totally magic; they can reject a certain amount of common mode voltage -- until they blow because you applied more than they can stand. Which might be +/-25V, 40V, somewhere in there, see the datasheet.
You NEED a ground connection and ideally it should pass through the same common-mode choke; you just don't need to reduce noise below 0.5-to-a-few volts or whatever a single-ended (non-differential) input would require.
Hi! I need your help for something. I buy a large ferrite to use it like you for the spindle. I was careless and I dropped it down and ... break it in two pieces. If I cover it with some electrician tape will it still efective? What do you think?
Try carefully cleaning up, fitting together then supergluing. It will not be as good as new if any bits are missing, but better than nothing.
I'm interested in how you will mount this to your mill since mine is just like yours !!
I'll be machining a mount to replace the head casting. Coming soon.
@@Clough42 Can't wait to see that. Thanks
@@Clough42 I know you have gotten some unwarranted criticism after your last video and are taking a little break, I am very sorry to hear that. I have learned a lot from your videos and hope you come back to it soon. I am very interested in going down this path with my slightly larger PM-30 conversion and love the look and specs of this spindle. Any chance you have completed mounting the spindle and done some test cuts? I'm anxious to see if this "router type" spindle cartridge is a contender over just replacing my anemic and slow motor that I have now
@@mpmachining7227 still working on it. More to come.
Great content just subscribed, and ticked the bell.😀
Very interesting, thanks.
Correction to your correction. Air fittings are typically NOT NPT,(National Pipe Tapered) they are usually parallel and require an seal ring . typically BSP(British Standard Pipe ) specifically BSPP british standard pipe PARALLEL vs BSPT (tapered). US amateur brewers get to find this out when attempting to fit a electric water heater element to a 1" NPT thread.For some reason, US water heaters adopted the BSPP standard for water heater electric elements. Import Air fittings are more commonly made with BSP, US made air fittings vary a little, but also use BSP a bunch
There are lots of different kinds of fittings. My advice based on experience is to buy valves and fittings with detailed descriptions that clearly call out the types of threads they use. I would also advise checking the threads with a pitch gauge. 1/4" NPT fittings are 18TPI. BSP fittings are 19TPI.
Is there a reason that you won't post a link to the spindle?
I will feel more comfortable recommending it once I get it cutting and have a valid opinion. At the time this video went up, it wasn't actually for sale yet and there was nothing to link.
Ref the fan comment, did the comment mean the fan would work better in the vertical plane as they’re not thrust bearings but roller bearings 🤷🤷🤷 maybe very interesting watching your vids 👍
James I’m a fan of your videos. Big question. Every Cnc spindle I’ve seen has had a fan on top or water cooled. Where’s the cooling in Alex’s spindle?
You probably got the term parallel from BSPP threads (British Standard Parallel Pipe), which is a non-tapered pipe thread. Logically you might call tapered thread non-parallel.
I'll be sure to use that excuse. :)
For RS-485, allow for the (I think high) likelihood that someone who had everything plugged into the same power strip -- which provides a common ground -- developed and sold this, cheap. There is a ground, it's just in the background.
Otherwise, you will want to arrange for isolation (opto- or other) or ensure there is a common ground some other way.
RS-485 transceivers are not magic; they will handle probably somewhere between 25V and 40V (see the data sheet!) on pins before blowing up.
Yeah...the modbus spec calls for a common wire in the network, connected to a safety ground at one point, but neither the USB transceivers I have nor the VFD have any provision for this (or mention it in the documentation). Luckily, I'm running everything from a single electrical panel, so I expect it'll be fine when I finally get around to it.
"Chatter" that you hear in spindle.. This is from bearing cage. Spindles for low load design, like woodworking etc, usually have top two bearings spring loaded. And they move up and down in housing of spindle. To move up and down and keep constant preload, bearings are not very tight fit into spindle. So when spindle is cold, bearings vibrate little bit in housing, this vibration is then transmitted onto bearing cage, which then starts making those sounds at ceartin rpm. Usually when spindle is up to temperature, bearings are grabbed into housing, and this sound stops. It is annoying, but not critical. Also as manufacturer suggested, grease not evenly distributed can distrurb cage and throw it into resonance at certain rpm.
Cool. Thanks.
hhhmmmm, how curious. you subsribed to AvE and suddently your camera doesn't want to focus. well, at least you know the magic words to make it focus now hahahaahahaha.
ohh.. and keep your "spindle" in a vice. :D
I had actually thought about that. It's actually a new camera (Sony a7iii) and I'm playing around with focus settings and depth of field. In this case, I was too close to the lens and didn't notice until the edit.
@@Clough42 the sony cameras are sooo awesome....be careful with metal bits with such a nice cam
@@minskmade it's a nice camera--especially with a macro lens. I think I have a workflow sorted out now with a Bluetooth remote to adjust and lock the focus as needed. We'll see how it goes.
@@Clough42 link me to the bluetooth remote please
The problem is: if You connect it that way, then risk is that a voltage is induced due to the setup. Then You get a slightly distorted voltage. Note You should turn the wire around the ferrite. They are not intended to simply go over the wire. It seems You turn 3 times around the core with each wire? How much power is going through these wires and how fast these voltages switch on and off? Power on an ring core leaves always something behind, Your theory was ok but any current going in a ring core will have some influence on the other cables. I will connect that way using low voltage but never connect when using high voltage and higher power . And the funny part is , so the power is induced and travels around the core and the second wire generates also a power the third also but soon or late these waves collide and that's called a standing wave , known for destroying equipment. 3 turns on low voltage and power will not create a problem, but at 220V at 8Amp sure 3 turns is enough to start the ring core gizmo. The isolation on the wire is thicker so the gizmo will stay lower comped with thin isolation but wait till induced power hits back. In your explanation 4 micro amp induced but if You start with 220V at 8 Amp trough the wire, I would rethink the theory between induced power and real power feeding to a ring core. Cause both have a completely other result . And Your Hitachi VFD will sure not like it , fuses are simply too late to act cause most fuses in a home are overloading protection but they are slower. There is one short circuit fuse at the mains counter. This will trigger cause after destroying and electrical device there is usual short circuit. . At short circuit, the overloading fuse will also trigger since the ac wire is getting hot.
que preciosidad!!!!😁😁😁
get laser pointer :) or at least a stick to point instead of fingers, so focus stays normal, and ... its just fun
Frickin' lasers. :)
For a while I shared my account with my teen daughter. That was a huge mistake!! Took me a year to get anime to stop showing up in my feed :)
All you had to do was clear the video history in UA-cam setting, would have fixed it after viewing a couple of machining videos
Extraction works better, as the fan is dumping into a large plenum, open air. With a fan on the inlet overcoming the slight restriction, of the case, causes loss at the fan, giving less flow. There is some flow loss due to grill/filter restriction, to balance those, one would have the inlet size ~1.25 x outlet size. I'm a retired ventilation type.
Cheers
Okay, so the cost is reduced flow. And that's traded off against dust ingress. So if I had a target flow rate, I would need a larger fan?
@@Clough42 In a word, yes. You should accommodate for the edge gap on door plus a little larger exhaust opening, than the intake, to further reduce restriction to as low as is reasonable. This will also help the fan efficiency, less pressure equals less chance of blade stall, as these are tube-axial not vane-axial fans.
Cheers
This is not the same design region as HVAC, in which long ducts are used and the flow pressure losses in them are significant; in HVAC, ducts are expensive and should not be excessively over-sized primarily for economic reasons.
Here, what matters is enough flow to prevent heat build-up and keeping dust and debris out, including at the various small openings in the case, seams in the case, gaps around wires, the space between wires in cables, etc.
I know you're working on many projects, but I was going to suggest you give LinuxCNC a try. Having used both now, while LinuxCNC can have a steeper learning curve I sure think it offers more functionality as well as ease of use. Not ease of setup. :) But once you start to see how LinuxCNC works, and gives a good upgrade path with the Mesa cards for more than can be done with a parallel port, I think you'd never look back.
Regardless, you know I'll be watching this series with great interest. My PM25 has been relegated to also-ran status now with a Tormach PCNC1100 and an 1100MX occopying space in the hangar. But I may revisit it for smaller operations, and this spindle upgrade is just what I'd want for it!
Thank you
I don't think I miss subscriptions but I don't watch based on what youtube suggests.. I click to my subscriptions and watch from there