Bought a second hand Chinese quad for $500aud, got it from a diesel mechanic, he told me it had some sort of ignition problem and he started it by bridging the positive and negative, kinda a hot wire job, he told me he had no idea why or how, I got a new starter relay, and fixed. He also put a new pz30 on it and told me he could not get it to run right, used this video and moved the small clip down 1 notch, and runs like new now! So much for the sellers mechanical skills!
Excellent video! I’d note that for diagnostic purposes, the pilot jet is responsible for off-idle performance, needle/needle jet addresses mid-range performance, at wide open throttle it’s all main jet. I’ve found that Japanese OE needles are more accurately made than typical aftermarket versions so I usually just scotch-brute the OE needle and ignore the one furnished in rebuild kits. To adjust the needle height when there is only one groove for the e-clip I’ve had success by adding one or more washers (thanks ace hardware) below the clip to raise the needle richening the midrange mixture-same result as achieved in the video by moving the e-clip to a lower groove. Keep up the good work Redneck!
About non-adjustable needles, you can adjust them richer with 0.5mm shim discs. Though you cannot go leaner that way if your problem is too rich condition. Alternatively there are tuning kits from Dynojet to some carbs models and they may contain a new adjustable needle for carbs that are not adjustable by default.
We had the same experience with my motorcycle, I thought getting backfires are caused by a rich mixture so for the past 2 weeks I've been trying to experiment to add more air, but the backfires are getting worse so I tried to add more fuel, and now my motorcycle is running great and it has no backfires.
0:57 this isn't exactly true, 'choke' can also mean an enrichener on a CV or slide carb. it serves the same purpose but in a different way. In a 'traditional carb' choking the carb pulls more fuel through the jet due to increased vaccuum, in a CV the 'pilot mixture adjuster' is bypassed and the full pilot jet is used. this means that the choke test may not work if the pilot is particularly bad.
Subscribed, this was really really helpful. Going to try what I've taken from this video to do the final tweaks on my 250 quad. I'll report back with my results! :D
Really good video right here! I have a 2005 raptor 660 that backfires a lot on decel and only will idle with the choke on until it is fully warmed up. It also kind of breaks up when giving it gas until after 1/4 throttle. Stock intake and exhaust too
@@d21dusty72 nope, i replaced the piston and rings because it was low on compression. Thats fixed my backfire issue but I still need to use the choke until it warms up. Probably needs bigger pilot jets
People need to start sharing this masterpiece like on their FB page or any wheeler FB group Twitter etc I definitely know I’ll be doing that!! I ❤️ this UA-camr this video just Verified confirmed proven to my Hubby I was right once again. My 02 Honda Foreman 450 S that is snorkeled & fighting trying to find & stop a small exhaust leak has been running like Caca forever that the jets probably need to be tweet a bit since everything else that’s been tried failed 🤪🤪
U really helped me I couldn't get my bike to idle but I tried wat u said and it surely worked man thanks so much love ur vid, and u just got a new subscriber
there is a third and fourth possibility for the popping valve clearance is too tight. If the valve cannot completely close, because the valves have not been adjusted lately, you will have popping either back through the carburetor if it’s the intake valve, or out the exhaust, which will cause popping in the exhaust system… another possibility is, a loose fitting header at the exhaust flange. And possibly an air leak because of a leaky intake, manifold, cracked intake, manifold, rubber, or poorly seated carburetor into the manifold.
What about running full throttle, then letting off completely say to shift or stop? Poping constantly after, it's fine at idle fine with the throttle, but now when decelerating especially completely, it pops. I figure running rich but the fuel metering screw is all the way in ( bought a replacement carb). If I back out and play with the idle screw to bring down the idle it gets worse with the popping.
Fantastic video thanks! My problem is the motor and carbs run great while going wide open, but then after like 5-10 seconds it starts not sputtering and sounds lean -- wondering if the fuel petcock is blocking proper flow?
Close the petcock. Disconnect the fuel hose from the carb. Put the hose into a container like a large bottle to catch the fuel. Open the petcock. Let it drain for however long you want and see if the fuel flow gets reduced. It's probably not the petcock, though. It takes more than 5-10 seconds for the bowl to empty of fuel.
I have the same issue on my motorcycle. Except it was working fine until I had to fix a leak in the bowl and now it sounds like in the beginning of the video. I've cleaned it all of the jets and it seems like adjusting the idle mixture screws barely changes anything. Could it be some internal circuit that's clogged? Except it was running fine before so I'm not sure what it could be...
I like your explanation and content it's easy to follow along and well explained. I'm having problems with mine backfiring on deceleration and sometimes while I'm in first gear on constant throttle there's a slight hiccup. However it seems to be running a little warmer but after a long ride where I could open her up it returned to normal but something's not right. Here's my question, I running a XR650R carb on a XR650L bike long story short, was recommended by my mechanic who built bike but pandemic hit closed doors. I was stuck without a mechanic and having carb issues so I googled it but could not find it. So, the fuel mixture screw was not accessible and everytime I tried to question him about the carb he would always say "nothing was wrong with it". But I kept trying to tell him how did he access the fuel mixture screw because there's no way to adjust. So have you or how do you tune a carb that does not have a fuel/air mixture screw?
There's a screw. Or mess with the top of carb to adjust. When the cap is off the top there is a clip.. Might have to move down. I have to do the same on a can am ds250 ATV actually
I have a gy6 scooter and i have changed carb coil cdi spark plug air filter vacuum hoses and problem persists engine sometimes stalls exhaust poping this only happens when hot. When engine is cold it runs fine. Only thing i havent changed is the o ring on the intake manifold which is very flat hope that when i change it it will resolve the problem
Hi. I have a 300 king quad. I have a 140 MJ and it runs great but it should be a 120. Should I change it back? Also, I'd like it to start easier. It always starts, but sometimes I have to crank and crank. Any hints on where to look first? Pilot or fuel screw?
Could improper jetting be causing my Honda 400 ATV To be vibrating bad at high RPMs? I installed a new full exhaust, and jetted per the exhaust manufacturers spec sheet, but I left the needle and f/a screw in factory position …. Please help, I hardly notice any power gains from the quality full exhaust I purchased and the vibrating makes riding so unenjoyable… I have another 400 same year with a full exhaust that I purchased as is, and it doesn’t vibrate at all
One quick question. By watching the video, I know I'm lean due to the new straight pipe. What if I'm getting popping when I release the throttle? And how do I know what size the main jet is on my bike? Thank you
My 08 artic cat 650 h1 pops when I kill the engine, just a single pop out the pipe. I installed a brand new carb recently and it runs perfect just that pop.
For the pilot (idle), turn the screw until the engine RPMS are fastest. Then, some people prefer to have it run slightly rich because rich is better for your engine than lean. For a fuel screw, turn counter-clockwise 1/8 turn to add a little fuel. If it's and air screw, turn clockwise 1/8 turn to reduce a little air. As for the the main circuit (throttle pressed), make the adjustments until it runs as well as you expect it to run.
Enjoyed watching the vid. Hoping you can help me out. I have 2004 Yamaha TT600. Bought a few months ago and since have been doing a few jobs= leaky valves so ground them in, cleaned carbs, tappets, but also fitted a new muffler which has really opened up the motor, sounds great, air filter is standard, ticks over fine, nice and slow but when you rev up it pops like hell on overrun. Should i lower clip on left hand carb to raise needle but what about right hand carb? Also what jets may need replacing in both carbs? Hope you can help, thanks
I have a 125cc 4 stroke yamaha xtz125 and its carburetor doesn't have the air mixture screw. My bike has the same prob with your quad. What should i do instead? Have checked the jet and the carb part
What is that problem my atv same like sound popping also I cleaned carburetor still nothing but I m confused that my atv not running its shut off when choke on only when choke off its running what will be problem
What if I have no popping on deceleration, everything seems to run great when smooth throttle is applied however if I crack the throttle open in a corner hard or fast it falls flat like it wants to die. Not sure if I should adjust the needle clip or fuel air mixture but when I do it doesn’t really help the situation unless it’s idling high and almost about a half turn out on the air screw…
My xr650r is back firing and popping like this ,but is also fouling plugs black and sooty One symptom ( back fire ) suggests lean Other ( plug foul ) suggests rich ?
So if it run worse when you put the choke on it means it's getting to much fuel, would that be right, I'm find at idle, just 1/2 to full is where I can't find the balance, it's spits and pops and most time cuts off after 10 secs of that unless I let off back to idle for it to recover, so glad your showing the sounds, most vids just tell you but don't show how it runs when jets are off, as well as which way there off at certain running conditions, tks
I got two wolverine350s and they run like a top. Unfortunately both of them won't drive an inch. The axles and shafts on them are stripped out. From qhat I have read uts a very common issue with big bear and wolverines
My pit bike keeps studdering and sometimes pops at 1/2 throttle. Not that i run full throttle all the time but its still annoying. I already cleaned the carb. Threw in a new spark plug due to it being in bad shape and hasnt changed. Im gonna clean the carb again and try again
Mine pops and bangs when its running i have to give tiny throttle to get it started but when i give it revs it bogs out thought was carb so have brought 2 now with the same result
93 Yamaha moto -4 350 new carb didn't do nothing but adjust the throttle adjustment an mixing screw mid way out 😅 but timing off about 1/4 I only know the basic put in put off year laster it starts popping on choke
Ok I got a question for y'all now 😅 my Yamaha Raptor started to sputter and pop and stall when I gave it gas after I was Wheeling it up the road for a bit and it wouldn't come out of it any ideas?
My bike backfires and shoot flames sometimes and the header of the exhaust is red hot when idling but when I start driving it’s not red anymore. Any ideas what the problem is or how I can fix this?
Exhaust red hot at idle is lean pilot. Go up a size or go out on your fuel screw. If its a 450F theyre not supposed to idle for long anyway not designed for that
I am having an issue with my brand new carb on my 250. The bike ran great altough a little slow with the stock carb but wirh the new carb power was greatly increased but my idle is a little inconsistent. It will drop off as usual but it will rev up 100rpm from time to time up and down slowly with the throttle closed. And if I pull hard on the throttle it will rev up but hesitate if I open the throttle too much it will simply bog down and die. I think I have it dialed in on the main jet but those 2 quirks are hunting me.. Any advice?
My honda foreman backfires on deceleration after revs and at idle it acts like its running lean and the carb makes a noise like its running out of fuel what would cause that?
I have a Honda VTR 1000 superhawk I just purchased it runs perfect but it does pop quite a bit when you back off the throttle I don't know if it's normal for those v-twins or not any information greatly appreciated is it typical?
My friend just got a 125cc and when in first gear it's screaming soon as he sets off ready for second gear literally basically setting off in second any idea
i have yamaha r3 i change exhaust to a full exhaust now its backfiring hehe my question is its still safe or do i need to remap the ecu? any damage in the future if i dont remap the ecu?
Need help if anyone can help I replaced my carby for a bigger one than the small one I had on and bike runs mint without a airfilter but with one or even a small peice of foam makes the bike choke for air I've adjusted the needle for more airflow and also the screw near the airfilter on the outside the carb what would be the next step to help the airflow of the carby any help is much appreciated
It's most likely lean on the main jet. If this started happening on its own, meaning you didn't make any changes to intake, exhaust, etc., then take apart the carb and clean it, especially the main jet and any fuel passages that feed it. If that doesn't fix it, move the clip on the needle down a notch to bring the needle up.
@@redneckoriental ok only thing I’ve had done was get valves adjusted. I probably need to clean air filter . I haven’t cleaned it since I bought it back in March.
I recently rebuilt my 2014 Grizzly 450 carburetor, I also added a new air filter same as the original though, not after market. I set the air fuel screw to 2 1/2 turns out just like in the manual. All components and rubber diaphragms are in good condition. However, now when I press the throttle it sputters out and stalls out. Any suggestions?
Just rebuilt a 1996 Forman 400. I put the 450 jug kit on it and went to a bigger jet. It runs fine until your running real fast and then let off the gas it sounds like a bomb going off. That the only time it backfires. I’m going to try the choke trick tomorrow and see if it’s running lean. Do you have any other advice or tricks.
Videos about adjusting carbs normally last 30-60 minutes and by the end you feel angry, sad and confused. This dude absolutely nails it in 5 minutes.
Yep
Amin
UA-cam algorithm needs to do it's work on this masterpiece. I'm just commenting to help give the video what it deserves
Same!!!
Sammmmmmeeee I’ll screen print this dude free shirts for sharing this heavy-hitting info
100%
Literally learned more about carb adjusting in this video than 3 hours of web research
Nailed it in 5 minutes. Shows he knows his stuff. THANK YOU FOR NOT WASTING OUR TIME! Chris (comment below) is so right.
Bought a second hand Chinese quad for $500aud, got it from a diesel mechanic, he told me it had some sort of ignition problem and he started it by bridging the
positive and negative, kinda a hot wire job, he told me he had no idea why or how, I got a new starter relay, and fixed. He also put a new pz30 on it and told me he could not get it to run right, used this video and moved the small clip down 1 notch, and runs like new now! So much for the sellers mechanical skills!
Lol
This is probably the best and well explained video on UA-cam on how to tune a carburetor in simplest words. Thanks for the video.
Excellent video! I’d note that for diagnostic purposes, the pilot jet is responsible for off-idle performance, needle/needle jet addresses mid-range performance, at wide open throttle it’s all main jet. I’ve found that Japanese OE needles are more accurately made than typical aftermarket versions so I usually just scotch-brute the OE needle and ignore the one furnished in rebuild kits. To adjust the needle height when there is only one groove for the e-clip I’ve had success by adding one or more washers (thanks ace hardware) below the clip to raise the needle richening the midrange mixture-same result as achieved in the video by moving the e-clip to a lower groove. Keep up the good work Redneck!
I'm glad you mentioned the aftermarket filter and exhaust...it was a lightbulb moment for me...
I have a crappy bike and I’ve been spending days and dollars to get t it to run right and thanks to you this will be the last video I watch for today
THIS IS GOLD! Will move my needle tomorrow a 2 positions lower, because it backfires. I already cleaned carbs. Thank you!
One of the best carburetor videos I have seen!! Awesome video and very helpful!!
Yea, this is one of the best vids on the subject I've found. Great job, sir! 👍
Thanks!
@@redneckoriental yeah awesome video
Real shit this is gold, should look into future as a teacher 100%
About non-adjustable needles, you can adjust them richer with 0.5mm shim discs. Though you cannot go leaner that way if your problem is too rich condition. Alternatively there are tuning kits from Dynojet to some carbs models and they may contain a new adjustable needle for carbs that are not adjustable by default.
We had the same experience with my motorcycle, I thought getting backfires are caused by a rich mixture so for the past 2 weeks I've been trying to experiment to add more air, but the backfires are getting worse so I tried to add more fuel, and now my motorcycle is running great and it has no backfires.
I'm impressed. You are good at teaching and riding.
Great explanation! Straight to the point with enough detail. Well done!
Thank you so much for this video. You made it easy to understand and short in duration.
I watched your video back and forth couple times. Great video, thank you.
The VERY BEST video !!!
THANK YOU.
10/10.
One of the best videos out there! Thank you so much for making this!!!
0:57 this isn't exactly true, 'choke' can also mean an enrichener on a CV or slide carb. it serves the same purpose but in a different way. In a 'traditional carb' choking the carb pulls more fuel through the jet due to increased vaccuum, in a CV the 'pilot mixture adjuster' is bypassed and the full pilot jet is used. this means that the choke test may not work if the pilot is particularly bad.
Subscribed, this was really really helpful. Going to try what I've taken from this video to do the final tweaks on my 250 quad. I'll report back with my results! :D
Dude… thank you for such an awesome video. Super precise in your description 😊
here here Mike Mike, Thank you Redneck Oriental, well planned video and explanation, clear and concise, just what I needed. Cheers
Really well laid out video and instructions, thanks
Really good video right here! I have a 2005 raptor 660 that backfires a lot on decel and only will idle with the choke on until it is fully warmed up. It also kind of breaks up when giving it gas until after 1/4 throttle. Stock intake and exhaust too
Did adjusting the needle and cleaning the jets fix your problem?
@@d21dusty72 nope, i replaced the piston and rings because it was low on compression. Thats fixed my backfire issue but I still need to use the choke until it warms up. Probably needs bigger pilot jets
Man i just got my rubicon running like it did when it was new thanks to your video you're great thank you for sharing your knowledge
Your awesome dude! Fixed my problem instantly!
Great carb video thanks. Line-riding is a great way to become an organ donor. Be safe!
Fantastic video, right to the point and easy to follow!
Spent a whileeee looking for an answer and poof this video popped up so great-full!
People need to start sharing this masterpiece like on their FB page or any wheeler FB group Twitter etc I definitely know I’ll be doing that!!
I ❤️ this UA-camr this video just Verified confirmed proven to my Hubby I was right once again.
My 02 Honda Foreman 450 S that is snorkeled & fighting trying to find & stop a small exhaust leak has been running like Caca forever that the jets probably need to be tweet a bit since everything else that’s been tried failed 🤪🤪
U really helped me I couldn't get my bike to idle but I tried wat u said and it surely worked man thanks so much love ur vid, and u just got a new subscriber
Amazing video,well explained so easy to understand!!!
there is a third and fourth possibility for the popping
valve clearance is too tight. If the valve cannot completely close, because the valves have not been adjusted lately, you will have popping either back through the carburetor if it’s the intake valve, or out the exhaust, which will cause popping in the exhaust system…
another possibility is, a loose fitting header at the exhaust flange. And possibly an air leak because of a leaky intake, manifold, cracked intake, manifold, rubber, or poorly seated carburetor into the manifold.
What about running full throttle, then letting off completely say to shift or stop? Poping constantly after, it's fine at idle fine with the throttle, but now when decelerating especially completely, it pops. I figure running rich but the fuel metering screw is all the way in ( bought a replacement carb). If I back out and play with the idle screw to bring down the idle it gets worse with the popping.
Really great explanation
Informative video giving a great overview on addressing lean carb conditions! Thumbs-up 👍
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!
dude u literally made this at a 3rd grade level which is perfect for me because im an idiot
This video is really good
Fantastic video thanks! My problem is the motor and carbs run great while going wide open, but then after like 5-10 seconds it starts not sputtering and sounds lean -- wondering if the fuel petcock is blocking proper flow?
Close the petcock. Disconnect the fuel hose from the carb. Put the hose into a container like a large bottle to catch the fuel. Open the petcock. Let it drain for however long you want and see if the fuel flow gets reduced. It's probably not the petcock, though. It takes more than 5-10 seconds for the bowl to empty of fuel.
@@redneckoriental Thanks, I've adjusted the needle and I THINK its working finally
Great video. Will float adjustment affect lean or rich?
Thanks you helped me out a lot!!!
What is pulling the choke out causes the bike to die? What does that mean? Does that mean I’m at the right adjustment?
Thank you. Great job laying it out.
I have the same issue on my motorcycle. Except it was working fine until I had to fix a leak in the bowl and now it sounds like in the beginning of the video. I've cleaned it all of the jets and it seems like adjusting the idle mixture screws barely changes anything. Could it be some internal circuit that's clogged? Except it was running fine before so I'm not sure what it could be...
I like your explanation and content it's easy to follow along and well explained. I'm having problems with mine backfiring on deceleration and sometimes while I'm in first gear on constant throttle there's a slight hiccup. However it seems to be running a little warmer but after a long ride where I could open her up it returned to normal but something's not right. Here's my question, I running a XR650R carb on a XR650L bike long story short, was recommended by my mechanic who built bike but pandemic hit closed doors. I was stuck without a mechanic and having carb issues so I googled it but could not find it. So, the fuel mixture screw was not accessible and everytime I tried to question him about the carb he would always say "nothing was wrong with it". But I kept trying to tell him how did he access the fuel mixture screw because there's no way to adjust. So have you or how do you tune a carb that does not have a fuel/air mixture screw?
There's a screw. Or mess with the top of carb to adjust. When the cap is off the top there is a clip.. Might have to move down. I have to do the same on a can am ds250 ATV actually
I have a gy6 scooter and i have changed carb coil cdi spark plug air filter vacuum hoses and problem persists engine sometimes stalls exhaust poping this only happens when hot. When engine is cold it runs fine. Only thing i havent changed is the o ring on the intake manifold which is very flat hope that when i change it it will resolve the problem
Great video
Brief and sweet video bud thanks
It could also be getting some false air that makes the mixture lean, right?
Hi. I have a 300 king quad. I have a 140 MJ and it runs great but it should be a 120. Should I change it back? Also, I'd like it to start easier. It always starts, but sometimes I have to crank and crank. Any hints on where to look first? Pilot or fuel screw?
Another problem with the needle clip people sometimes miss is putting it on bent so its only half on ..so easy to overlook an have an issue
What about a choke that adds fuel instead of restricting air?
Could improper jetting be causing my Honda 400 ATV To be vibrating bad at high RPMs? I installed a new full exhaust, and jetted per the exhaust manufacturers spec sheet, but I left the needle and f/a screw in factory position …. Please help, I hardly notice any power gains from the quality full exhaust I purchased and the vibrating makes riding so unenjoyable… I have another 400 same year with a full exhaust that I purchased as is, and it doesn’t vibrate at all
One quick question. By watching the video, I know I'm lean due to the new straight pipe. What if I'm getting popping when I release the throttle? And how do I know what size the main jet is on my bike? Thank you
My 08 artic cat 650 h1 pops when I kill the engine, just a single pop out the pipe. I installed a brand new carb recently and it runs perfect just that pop.
My guy appreciate you for this video‼️ Help A lot‼️
I would have like to have seen how to know when the air and fuel adjustments are correct. How would we know? Do we start with air or fuel adjustments?
For the pilot (idle), turn the screw until the engine RPMS are fastest. Then, some people prefer to have it run slightly rich because rich is better for your engine than lean. For a fuel screw, turn counter-clockwise 1/8 turn to add a little fuel. If it's and air screw, turn clockwise 1/8 turn to reduce a little air. As for the the main circuit (throttle pressed), make the adjustments until it runs as well as you expect it to run.
Cylinder 4 on my motorcycle does this and spits fuel out the exhaust. Ive cleaned and adjusted the carb over and over. Thinking it might be a valve.
Enjoyed watching the vid. Hoping you can help me out. I have 2004 Yamaha TT600. Bought a few months ago and since have been doing a few jobs= leaky valves so ground them in, cleaned carbs, tappets, but also fitted a new muffler which has really opened up the motor, sounds great, air filter is standard, ticks over fine, nice and slow but when you rev up it pops like hell on overrun. Should i lower clip on left hand carb to raise needle but what about right hand carb? Also what jets may need replacing in both carbs? Hope you can help, thanks
I have a 125cc 4 stroke yamaha xtz125 and its carburetor doesn't have the air mixture screw. My bike has the same prob with your quad. What should i do instead? Have checked the jet and the carb part
What about when I'm going up an incline and it starts doing that but when I'm on level ground it doesn't??
i noticed some needles have like a white gasket close to the clip...some dont....is there an advantage to having one?
What is that problem my atv same like sound popping also I cleaned carburetor still nothing but I m confused that my atv not running its shut off when choke on only when choke off its running what will be problem
What if I have no popping on deceleration, everything seems to run great when smooth throttle is applied however if I crack the throttle open in a corner hard or fast it falls flat like it wants to die. Not sure if I should adjust the needle clip or fuel air mixture but when I do it doesn’t really help the situation unless it’s idling high and almost about a half turn out on the air screw…
My xr650r is back firing and popping like this ,but is also fouling plugs black and sooty
One symptom ( back fire ) suggests lean
Other ( plug foul ) suggests rich ?
So if it run worse when you put the choke on it means it's getting to much fuel, would that be right, I'm find at idle, just 1/2 to full is where I can't find the balance, it's spits and pops and most time cuts off after 10 secs of that unless I let off back to idle for it to recover, so glad your showing the sounds, most vids just tell you but don't show how it runs when jets are off, as well as which way there off at certain running conditions, tks
I would say your rich after the idle if it’s stuttering and cutting out. A surge in rpms is lean and bogging is rich flooding engine.
how do you know if you engine need more fuel or less few then ? more fuel mean more speed
I got two wolverine350s and they run like a top. Unfortunately both of them won't drive an inch. The axles and shafts on them are stripped out. From qhat I have read uts a very common issue with big bear and wolverines
My pit bike keeps studdering and sometimes pops at 1/2 throttle. Not that i run full throttle all the time but its still annoying. I already cleaned the carb. Threw in a new spark plug due to it being in bad shape and hasnt changed. Im gonna clean the carb again and try again
Mine pops and bangs when its running i have to give tiny throttle to get it started but when i give it revs it bogs out thought was carb so have brought 2 now with the same result
93 Yamaha moto -4 350 new carb didn't do nothing but adjust the throttle adjustment an mixing screw mid way out 😅 but timing off about 1/4 I only know the basic put in put off year laster it starts popping on choke
Hey where did you get the cone air filter?
This video is awesome. ..very on point
And what happens if you take out the sparkplug and it is all black?
I have a Kawasaki Lakota doing it at startup and it won't run what would it be it ran fine when it was warm out now in the winter it won't start
Ok I got a question for y'all now 😅 my Yamaha Raptor started to sputter and pop and stall when I gave it gas after I was Wheeling it up the road for a bit and it wouldn't come out of it any ideas?
My bike backfires and shoot flames sometimes and the header of the exhaust is red hot when idling but when I start driving it’s not red anymore. Any ideas what the problem is or how I can fix this?
Exhaust red hot at idle is lean pilot. Go up a size or go out on your fuel screw. If its a 450F theyre not supposed to idle for long anyway not designed for that
I am having an issue with my brand new carb on my 250. The bike ran great altough a little slow with the stock carb but wirh the new carb power was greatly increased but my idle is a little inconsistent. It will drop off as usual but it will rev up 100rpm from time to time up and down slowly with the throttle closed.
And if I pull hard on the throttle it will rev up but hesitate if I open the throttle too much it will simply bog down and die. I think I have it dialed in on the main jet but those 2 quirks are hunting me.. Any advice?
What should i do to make the pop how much should I turn the screw?? Please reply
Litterly helped me solve my problem
My honda foreman backfires on deceleration after revs and at idle it acts like its running lean and the carb makes a noise like its running out of fuel what would cause that?
Mine does to sometimes not for a day or 2 then when it does it ends up scaring me 1/2 to death 🤪🤪
I have a Honda VTR 1000 superhawk I just purchased it runs perfect but it does pop quite a bit when you back off the throttle I don't know if it's normal for those v-twins or not any information greatly appreciated is it typical?
Man no wonder I’m working on my prairie 650 no wonder I was seeing droplets of fuel it was not spraying properly runs rich hopefully this fixes it
Thank you so much for this easy to understand video, two thumbs up 👍 👍 if I had more thumbs I’d have them up too 😂
you do not need to buy a bigger pilot jet if your jet needle isnt adjustable.... just get shims and shim it to your desired height.
What would cause a kx250f to pop on deceleration?
My friend just got a 125cc and when in first gear it's screaming soon as he sets off ready for second gear literally basically setting off in second any idea
Let’s say I don’t do anything about it can this ruin my bike?
I just wanna know how does a bog or starved sound like?
Thank you for this, actually helped alot
What’s with revving your engine to warn other drivers? Your bike has a horn that would do a much job
Why is my brand new carb doing this popping?
i have yamaha r3 i change exhaust to a full exhaust now its backfiring hehe my question is its still safe or do i need to remap the ecu? any damage in the future if i dont remap the ecu?
Need help if anyone can help I replaced my carby for a bigger one than the small one I had on and bike runs mint without a airfilter but with one or even a small peice of foam makes the bike choke for air I've adjusted the needle for more airflow and also the screw near the airfilter on the outside the carb what would be the next step to help the airflow of the carby any help is much appreciated
My 400ex is popping on deceleration. What should I do?
It's most likely lean on the main jet. If this started happening on its own, meaning you didn't make any changes to intake, exhaust, etc., then take apart the carb and clean it, especially the main jet and any fuel passages that feed it. If that doesn't fix it, move the clip on the needle down a notch to bring the needle up.
@@redneckoriental ok only thing I’ve had done was get valves adjusted. I probably need to clean air filter . I haven’t cleaned it since I bought it back in March.
@@redneckoriental I’ll give those tips a try also, thanks.
I recently rebuilt my 2014 Grizzly 450 carburetor, I also added a new air filter same as the original though, not after market. I set the air fuel screw to 2 1/2 turns out just like in the manual. All components and rubber diaphragms are in good condition. However, now when I press the throttle it sputters out and stalls out. Any suggestions?
No expert here. Jetting perhaps...? Slide in correctly?
Just rebuilt a 1996 Forman 400. I put the 450 jug kit on it and went to a bigger jet. It runs fine until your running real fast and then let off the gas it sounds like a bomb going off. That the only time it backfires. I’m going to try the choke trick tomorrow and see if it’s running lean. Do you have any other advice or tricks.
Popping on deceleration does mean lean. Yes, the choke trick should reveal that.