Hey Dave...I remembered one you skipped: paint. Track laying with paint was definitely a thing in the pages of MR in the late 80s/early 90s. And using it over large areas of scenery with dirt or ground foam is very cost-effective.
Dave, I just wanted you to know that I tried your idea of using a paint brush to apply the glue. It worked great and I really appreciate the tip! Thanks again.
Very informative video Dave... One adhesive option you missed, which is an old technique, but works great is the old "Acetone and Ambroid" glue method. I don't think Ambroid cellulose glue is available any longer, but Duco makes a clear cellulose glue that's the exact same thing. Also... Though a bit expensive, this is the same mix as you get when you buy a container of "wood hardener" for solidifying rotten or punky wood. It's just acetone and a cellulose glue mix. You mix acetone and the cellulose glue to about a 3:1 ratio (solvent to glue). Paint the mix on both pieces of material you want to glue. Two to three coats is best (it dries fast). Once the last coat is dry, position the two parts together, then hit the joint with some clean acetone. Hold until the acetone evaporates, which takes about 30 sec, or less if you blow on it. The result is a super strong joint with no glue blobs... If you're not sloppy with the glue mix, you can even stain the wood after gluing without any light spots in the wood. I use this method exclusively for gluing my laser board window laminations together, as it's a solid bond, with no glue residue. The other benefit to this method is that you don't add any additional thickness to two materials that are joined together. The glue layer is micro thin, but still very strong. Not for everyone, but it's a great option to add to all the other options out there.
May I add one more? Rubber Cement. If you want to secure something, like a cargo load on a flat car. But you also don't want to make it pertinent. Rubber Cement is perfect. Also, a while back, I was building a structure and wasn't sure about the angle of the roof. I used the Rubber Cement to hold the roof parts in place, and still could remove the roof without damaging anything.
Great video Dave! Very informative! Smelled a lot of that old Testors glue back in the day! Maybe I’m crazy but another smell that harkens back to childhood is smelling the top of a DQ ice cream cake cone where the ice cream meets the cone. 😂
Great video. Unfortunately, we less choice for glue here in France. PVA is PVA or PVA, no real difference between the brands. Super 77 or similar isn't available (only removable spray glue here). But we have many choice for styrene (my preferred is Mr Cement S), and some for cyano. I prefers Colle21 for cyano, as it don't react a lot with air, but mainly with lack of air (so the bottle don't degrade in a few months like the others). Using black cyano with a debonder is very useful to clean the mess after gluing small details.
I don't know about the masking tape other than the blue painters tape is useless for sticking anything on a permanent basis. But I have used the ordinary white stuff for "N" scale roofing felt ( tar paper) and it worked 40 something years later its still stuck down with it's own stick. So the friend that was given the scrap yard tells me. The roof was card and the building definitely nothing special pretty crude in fact I am surprised to say the least that it has survived 40 years in one piece
Thank you for this. Every once in awhile, it’s nice to have a refresher. Boy, things have definitely changed since the “60’s”.
Old video but I can't tell you how often I come here looking for advice on tools, materials, etc. You never fail to disappoint.
Didn't know you had a UA-cam channel! Awesome! Subscribed!
Thank you for teaching us but the different glues and how they work.
GOD BLESS 🚂❤🚂❤🚂❤
Great video!!
Great video. Especially loved the Tron tshirt.
Very nice video. I learned a lot. Much thanks
Hey Dave...I remembered one you skipped: paint. Track laying with paint was definitely a thing in the pages of MR in the late 80s/early 90s. And using it over large areas of scenery with dirt or ground foam is very cost-effective.
This one was so good it kept me glued to the end. LOL
I guess you were in Tron mode the day you did this video.
Btw. Good information there
Great Job Dave !!!
Dave, I just wanted you to know that I tried your idea of using a paint brush to apply the glue. It worked great and I really appreciate the tip! Thanks again.
Awesome. So glad it worked for you.
Very informative video Dave... One adhesive option you missed, which is an old technique, but works great is the old "Acetone and Ambroid" glue method. I don't think Ambroid cellulose glue is available any longer, but Duco makes a clear cellulose glue that's the exact same thing. Also... Though a bit expensive, this is the same mix as you get when you buy a container of "wood hardener" for solidifying rotten or punky wood. It's just acetone and a cellulose glue mix.
You mix acetone and the cellulose glue to about a 3:1 ratio (solvent to glue). Paint the mix on both pieces of material you want to glue. Two to three coats is best (it dries fast). Once the last coat is dry, position the two parts together, then hit the joint with some clean acetone. Hold until the acetone evaporates, which takes about 30 sec, or less if you blow on it.
The result is a super strong joint with no glue blobs... If you're not sloppy with the glue mix, you can even stain the wood after gluing without any light spots in the wood.
I use this method exclusively for gluing my laser board window laminations together, as it's a solid bond, with no glue residue. The other benefit to this method is that you don't add any additional thickness to two materials that are joined together. The glue layer is micro thin, but still very strong.
Not for everyone, but it's a great option to add to all the other options out there.
May I add one more? Rubber Cement. If you want to secure something, like a cargo load on a flat car. But you also don't want to make it pertinent. Rubber Cement is perfect. Also, a while back, I was building a structure and wasn't sure about the angle of the roof. I used the Rubber Cement to hold the roof parts in place, and still could remove the roof without damaging anything.
Walther's GOO is a form of rubber cement. I installed a brass number plate on a "GENERAL" about 60 years ago and it is still on with the GOO.
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Terrific video, thank you
Dave, Thanks so much for the informative session on glue. You have a great approach to modeling and I enjoy your videos. Please keep them coming.
Thank you for the glue information. Very informative.
Thx for this video answered some questions thx
Great video Dave! Very informative! Smelled a lot of that old Testors glue back in the day! Maybe I’m crazy but another smell that harkens back to childhood is smelling the top of a DQ ice cream cake cone where the ice cream meets the cone. 😂
Great information . thank you
Great video. Unfortunately, we less choice for glue here in France. PVA is PVA or PVA, no real difference between the brands. Super 77 or similar isn't available (only removable spray glue here). But we have many choice for styrene (my preferred is Mr Cement S), and some for cyano. I prefers Colle21 for cyano, as it don't react a lot with air, but mainly with lack of air (so the bottle don't degrade in a few months like the others). Using black cyano with a debonder is very useful to clean the mess after gluing small details.
Pretty much agree across the board.......but my plastic model car background requires me to keep Testors orange tube glue!!!
I was wondering if you could do a video on how to paint models and mostly what you use to mask certain areas you don't want painted?
what would you use to bond sea shells to sea shells ? Thanks
How can I glue plexiglass to wood? Thanks
I don't know about the masking tape other than the blue painters tape is useless for sticking anything on a permanent basis.
But I have used the ordinary white stuff for "N" scale roofing felt ( tar paper) and it worked 40 something years later its still stuck down with it's own stick.
So the friend that was given the scrap yard tells me.
The roof was card and the building definitely nothing special pretty crude in fact I am surprised to say the least that it has survived 40 years in one piece
Titebond is no joke
It's not stirring it is called plastic sow y do Americans change the names of things