Testing 16DP4 CRT from early TV convention
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- Is it good? Hope to replace a 60 degree metal 16EP4 with this all glass 16DP4. Should be quite an adventure!
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It's actually a 60 degree CRT - not 70 degrees.
You haven't lived until you behold a Sony 40" CRT! I believe the biggest glass tube ever made. That set was MASSIVE!! Rich people toy back in the days. When I saw one in a BEAUTIFUL Cherry wood console.... it was outright AMAZING!!!
Honestly I don't miss CRT's. I serviced many thousands. Gimme my flat panel any day! 😁
Thanks for taking the time just love your channel and always look forward to all your videos. Made my evening watching my favorite channel. Thanks so much.
Nice! I was born in Passaic, NJ.
...ARE YOU BRAGGING OR COMPLAINING...(?)
I got the 440 CRT tester based on your use of it. I actually tested a color crt with it although I'm not 100% sure I knew what I was doing since it was the first color crt I've ever tested.
The green band in the tube neck is a chrome oxide insulation layer. 70 deg deflection was not uncommon outside of the consumer market. I have seen displays made as late as mid 80's that use 70 deg deflection and 36mm neck dia.
I misspoke. 16DP4 / 16EP4 are 60 degrees. 70 degrees is very common in 50s TVs.
Its sad that they never made CRTs with a infinitely lasting cathode. That has to be possible somehow!
It is easier to remove the enamelled wire coating on the coil with a crimper. Very helpful. Very wonderful!
I'm scared looking at that big CRT sitting on a pedestal.
I told them not to store the chlorine next to the tubes... ;)
You will need to add a 500-1000 PF filter cap for the HV, as the metal shell was used as part of the filter capacitor for the HV. Do you have any of the other size Berns pin crimpers? I am trying to find the full set of 4 or 5 of them.
No, it's the opposite. You need to add a capacitor for metal cone. The inner and outer conductive coatings in a glass CRT for a filter cap. Metal cone crts cannot
No, this is the only size crimper I have
Heh, I was using a fiends B&K 440... he said it was working properly. Turns out the caps inside were all bad, and those limit the current when using the restore function. With the press of the light restore button aka self destruct, I got a loud buzzing from the transformer in the tester, and totally vaporized the cathode on the uncommon crt I was working on. Oops... lesson learned!
I'm sorry that happened. A really good and thoroughly inspected and tested CRT tester is really important. Rare CRT's you'll have to really try and avoid the temptation to bump them. Only after you've got the set running and have evaluated the operating voltages and decided it works so poorly you'll look for another tube. Then you can try with a good tester/rejuvenator. Good luck with your work.
That's not how they work though. A 0.1uF capacitor is charged up then rapidly discharged through the CRT. There is no current limiting. That's when I don't advise using that function. The 5uF capacitor is just the filter cap for the power supply. The low, med high dynamic intensifier settings vary the filament voltage.
...THAT'S AWFUL-!!!
...if you were using a "fiend's" CRT tester- I wouldn't be SURPRISED if you had problems...(?)
@@daleburrell6273 LOL
I have a question: Did you say you picked up a early radar screen, tube?
In a previous video I showed a 7BP7 I picked out of the trash. Pin out does not match datasheet. I suspect someone reinstalled the base and screwed it ip
Got it. Shame it was not good.😮
@@williammitchem8274 but it is good. The pin out is just messed up. Not like I have anything to put it in anyway
Will you do a video and get it to work.
@@williammitchem8274 well it's not compatible with any equipment I have
Why don't you clean all the pins at once.?
I don't follow you. I did clean all the pins with a wire brush then sandpaper. I reflowed the solder in the filament pins because those were the ones giving me trouble.
@@bandersentv It looked like you only cleaned the two for filament.