Just mount the motor turned 120 degrees with cyliner 3 in top - when break it in. Mount it next with cylinder 2 in top - when break it in. Then you will have all cylinders broken in with correct temperature. It will run better after this break in procedure.
From my personal experience with this engine it is a fuel distribution problem In manufacturing. Contact Ray English in Carson city Nevada. He is a machinenist and mechanical engineer and has tons of experience with this engine and other saito engines.
Are you sure that cylinder is actually getting spark bad spark plug, wire? Seen many times brand new spark plugs not any good you need to see it Spark.
Glad to hear you solved your engine problem, this is a great engine. Is that a Saito or Keleo exhaust ring? The Keleos somehow seem to make them sound even better
Maybe I’m crazy, but I thought the manual wanted break in at full throttle super rich no more that 4000 RPM? The manual also states that it’s ok if a cylinder doesn’t fire during break in?
Chris Burkhalter after the video the engine got 10 full tanks of rich run first with max 4k rpm but at the end a bit leaner at 5k. The top cylinder not running is not good. Without temperature the breakin will not happen
Ahh - good to hear from experience. I’ll have one of these shortly and have been following some of the recommendations to rotate the engine while breaking in.
HondAttila is correct, if it's not running (firing) then it won't break in, you have to have them all firing to get proper temperature and chamber pressure. The idea is to have full running conditions but very rich and limited RPM, until the wearing surfaces bed in against each other. It's important to spend the time on that stage, keep working on it until you're sure it's running in correctly then follow the rest of the break-in procedure. These are terrific engines and they're well made and durable but only so long as you treat them right. They're expensive and I for one can't afford to wreck one by mistreating it and just get another one, I've got to make them last. I have 2 Saito flat twins (FA-182TD and an older FA-130TD) and they are great, I would really like to be running radials but don't have the budget yet. This sweet engine is a bit of a collector's piece but it's too good not to use them to fly nice models, so take care of it! I always love the sound of radials, no other small engine sounds that good
Just mount the motor turned 120 degrees with cyliner 3 in top - when break it in. Mount it next with cylinder 2 in top - when break it in. Then you will have all cylinders broken in with correct temperature. It will run better after this break in procedure.
Hey there! Thank you thats exactly what we did, i also posted an update video. Now with normal oil content and engine peaked out it runs OK.
engine *almost starts*
Five grown men *grunts*
On my same engine, I have the exact same problem! On cylinder 3 it only works in some regime!
I don’t have a gas plane yet what happens if you test the engine in a vertical position.
From my personal experience with this engine it is a fuel distribution problem In manufacturing. Contact Ray English in Carson city Nevada. He is a machinenist and mechanical engineer and has tons of experience with this engine and other saito engines.
Are you sure that cylinder is actually getting spark bad spark plug, wire? Seen many times brand new spark plugs not any good you need to see it Spark.
Szép motor Attila! Üdv itthonról :D
WOW 👍🤟
Glad to hear you solved your engine problem, this is a great engine. Is that a Saito or Keleo exhaust ring? The Keleos somehow seem to make them sound even better
My friend made it himself:) he used the original exhaust adaptors and made a ring for them
Maybe I’m crazy, but I thought the manual wanted break in at full throttle super rich no more that 4000 RPM? The manual also states that it’s ok if a cylinder doesn’t fire during break in?
Chris Burkhalter after the video the engine got 10 full tanks of rich run first with max 4k rpm but at the end a bit leaner at 5k. The top cylinder not running is not good. Without temperature the breakin will not happen
Ahh - good to hear from experience. I’ll have one of these shortly and have been following some of the recommendations to rotate the engine while breaking in.
@@cmburkhalter Rotating was the solution for us, i made a follow up video, since then the engine is running smooth.
HondAttila is correct, if it's not running (firing) then it won't break in, you have to have them all firing to get proper temperature and chamber pressure. The idea is to have full running conditions but very rich and limited RPM, until the wearing surfaces bed in against each other. It's important to spend the time on that stage, keep working on it until you're sure it's running in correctly then follow the rest of the break-in procedure. These are terrific engines and they're well made and durable but only so long as you treat them right. They're expensive and I for one can't afford to wreck one by mistreating it and just get another one, I've got to make them last. I have 2 Saito flat twins (FA-182TD and an older FA-130TD) and they are great, I would really like to be running radials but don't have the budget yet. This sweet engine is a bit of a collector's piece but it's too good not to use them to fly nice models, so take care of it! I always love the sound of radials, no other small engine sounds that good
Sounds great, :-)
Saito + radial = love
@@HondAttila hnnjjb0mn nnnhnmklllpoll
..l mas, pl
Wich Ring exhaust is that ??
Home made
@@HondAttila nice. Good job
By OS-G5 glow plug for gasoline, then the problem is fixt, and you can skip the egnition electronik, and save some wight to 👌
Cool
I would say that lean
Uredu ljepo radi