If anyone want to learn a proper joinery, your channel by far is the best tutorial out there! Don't pay attention to the thumb down. They don't want guys like me to learn how to do it, They want us to go to their website for a monthly fees. I'm already paying for UA-cam,so why go to other website.?
Retired American carpenter slamming pre-made "finger-joint prime" doors in to track houses and trimming out Doctors offices and Banks. Finally applying real woodworking skills long rusted from the pursuit of money American style--- Fast. Great channel this.
Haha thanks Scott!!! seems alot gets left behind in production work, i wonder how many people will look back at carpenty work completed in this generation and be impressed with what they are seeing such as we can with alot of historic buildings of the past. Seems fals economy to fit a chipboard door, they dont last 10 years. There are doors in houses over here centuries old.
Best video on here! I'm studying Joinery at the moment and recently I have been doing "research" on youtube but far too often I either find people using the festool dominos (I'm not knocking it but when it comes to homework its rather unhelpful!) or one where I had to laugh where a guy nailed together peaces of ply-wood to fake the look of a traditional door! The video is really informative! thank you for taking the time to do this!
Thankyou Davyd, that's really good to hear! What aspect of joinery are you studying? Everything has its place and the domino is a brilliant tool, but you can't beat the traditional methods sometimes!!
@@davydmir6565 awesome! I was studying level 3 joinery around 10 years ago at Leicester college! If you can get working making bespoke joinery you'll never be bored or out of work! Certainly keeps you on your toes!!
A fantastic insight into a professional joiners technique for making this type of door. Very helpful and by far the best video, of this type, I’ve found on UA-cam. Thanks very much for sharing and I’m looking forward to watching your other videos👍👍👍
Magnificent video. my career has been in exhibition and shopfitting, working with architects and contractors. Seeing your work puts this wonderful vocation into perspective.
Hey Keith, While not far afield from joinery there can be quite a gap between the two and have completely different techniques! I always regretted not going that route as everyone i knew earnt more money doing that route haha!! Hopefully this will pay off.
@@BradshawJoinery Well that can be the case, I always felt that those at the coalface of making were a bit un appreciated. My job started in imagining the vision and then working with the doers to make it happen.
Hi, just want to say your videos are excellent, we are currently renovating our house and your videos are a god send. They are by far the most helpful I've watched. Although I have an engineering background, its sometimes quite hard transferring across to wordworking. God loves a trier! Mike
Dear Oliver, something I've been wondering: what determines which type of mortise and tenon to use on any given project? In this case the haunch with wedge. Also what determines the length of the tenon itself and whether or not to use a full through tenon or a stopped tenon? Thanks very much and thank you so much for the effort you put in to helping us all. Keep it up and best wishes to you.
There are no actual rules when it comes to jointery. Everything is rule of thumb or whatever you were taught to do, anyone that say's otherwise is a liar, no one's ever built two doors with slightly different tenon lengths, then destroyed them both to see which is stronger. You could build a door like this with biscuits and it'll outlive you.
Great video! Would love to see some more on the lining and sill etc. and weather proofing. Amazing that you're willing to invest so much time making in depth videos for us! Thank you!
Hi Andrew, I did a video on the frame scribing but as you say it wasn't focused on the frame more the scribing work. I will do one in the future on the frame 👍👍. Is there a specific frame type /cill your interested in as there are lots of options.
@@BradshawJoinery I wish I knew what types there are! I'm only clued up in the world of furniture! I guess it's how you go about stopping the water coming under the door, in terms of weather bars and drip grooves and the general construction etc. Wish I could be more specific, but having learnt everything I know in cabinet making shops over the last 10yrs, it really isn't an area I know much about (didn't study joinery at college), but want to learn at least some basics. Are there any good basic joinery books you could recommend? Thanks again!
Great videos, I have searched long and hard before finding this sort of content within a professional enviroment. You deserve a much wider following than you are currenty getting.
In my country we cut the wedges from the tenons themselves (which are left oversized) instead of angling the mortises, but I reckon your process is more effective since it creates a kind of a dovetail.Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the info Buddy, where are you from? There are some in this country that cut the mortice square and slot the tennon and wedge into the slots, if that makes sence?
I'm from Portugal. But I think the process we use was borrowed somehow from the french. The french style windows became the norm here before being mostly replaced by uPVC or aluminium units. Interestingly the very old buildings had sash windows like in the UK.
This is traditional joinery, well done with the descriptions and filming, it was very informative! I particularly like the tenoner set up that you used. I like the way you do the tenons first and then match the mortice locations, as you pointed out, rather than the other way around. I have done it, mortice first, mostly in the middle of the stile, depending on glass thickness and beading, and then set up a spindle moulder with slide rail and a two part tenoning head, and then trying to get tenon thickness to match. This way looks way better and an a much easier set up, also like the three cutter head set up - keep up the good work I'll look out for more videos. Would you consider doing a video doing a sash build for a double hung window and go through, amongst other things, the meeting rail process with the bevelled edges and forked tenon, I reckon prospective joiners like myself would gain allot of insight, just a request. Well done man great work very professional!! Andrew
Nice one! the tenoning method was a revelation to me, it just came to me one day and i was like, how or why have i not done this before..Ive done a sash window build, check out the sash restoration playlist. slightly different in that its internally glazed... Although im yet to finish the windows! haha
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks yes I feel a bit silly I found this just after posting the comment, yes that build (the window restoration) is really good has heaps of great info.Thanks again I reckon there a people out there like me who gain allot from your videos and commentry - good stuff!!! BTW looks like you use 'skecthup'for your drawings - how have you found it? Know of any others you'd recommend, if not this. I'm interested in one for joinery (door and windows) and stairs is my thing. Note I don't own a Cnc just cutting out by hand with a router etc but maybe one day get one or access to one.
Just found your channel by looking for how to build a door. Great job. So much involved with the decorative moulding and so many big machines. You got a subscriber here
Absolutely wonderful to see such a professional at work, giving so many very useful tips and tricks. Just a shame that I've only just finished a new front door for our cottage! I could have really benefitted from this video during the making (although I think I got most things about right.) Thanks very much - I'll definitely be subscribing.
Thankyou Ian, very good or you to say! Pleased to hear the door went well! There is quite a lot to consider when making even a simple door if it's bespoke!
Thanks for all that you do with your videos, they are great for me as a joiner and carpenter, always useful to get a different perspective from someone with your experience. I wanted to ask where you order your accoya from these days? Thanks a lot
Really enjoyed this. Great workmanship. Stunning workshop. Regrettably after several watches I didn't understand the 3mm thing at around 7m plus. But the rest of the explanations and build were clear... this 3mm thing never seemed to resurface. I'm sure one day the penny will drop for me... I guess I'd need a physical representation. Anyway... Lovely work and you've gained a subscriber.😀
Hi Andrew, thankyou for the subscription and I'm glad it made sence mostly! The 3mm thing, is me getting confused on this job, I had in my head they were less deep rebates than I normally use and would therefore leave a wider flat on the inside edge of the door everywhere it is rebated. So on the rails this would mean you are left with a section of timber running along the tennon which has to be removed manually (as the rebate cut hasn't removed it) before it will fit in the mortice. These doors are part of a bigger job which the glazing is being fitted with a putty replacement product, however, these doors aren't being glazed in that fashion and I explained it wrong. Thankfully the doors were right 🤣
Accoya is a modified softwood, usually plantation grown Pinus Radiata,, which has been modified by acetylation ( boil under pressure in vinegar). Has a density of about 550 kg per cubic metre. A lot of it comes from New Zealand. Stavros
Thats the one, The chemical is Acetic Acid, Much stronger than Vinegar, The Accys guy said if you are int he same room as a cup full of this stuff it will draw the moisture out from your eyes.
@@BradshawJoinery what makes it so suitable for joinery other than being very dry / stable? It seems to me that it's fairly weak since it grows so fast, having only a handful of growth rings visible in a 58mm piece of timber seems like a bad thing to me. I understand we can't build everything out of quarter sawn oak and maple but this looks quite the opposite :)
Ive kinda covered it int he oak casement window series. i do the tennons using a circular saw, but exactly the same method using a bandsaw just feeding the timber horizontally not vertically. There is also a video on hand scribing mouldings somewhere
Not if you are kit limited. Create a tenon and square shoulder you can cope the profile by hand for smaller projects. If your at a point where this isn't economical, then tenoning machine isn't really a huge step up. Something like a multico is perfect and very small footprint/cost
@@BradshawJoinery Multico is s good solution. Is it possible to cope a 3 or 4 in wide rail by hand after I cut the tenon say on a table saw. You say you have a video on this?
Depending what part of the process you want to watch from go to about 40 mins in this one ua-cam.com/video/9QmkNDVvVGo/v-deo.html or covered in this one here. ua-cam.com/video/c7MRA4q3zGE/v-deo.html Method for producing accurate tenons here... ua-cam.com/video/m6nAAXPJScE/v-deo.html
Wow… I’ve been following you for some time now, and I must say this has got to be one of your best videos to date Great in-depth content Your very talented and thank you for sharing this with us 👍👍👍👍
HI Carl, thanks mate, yeah in my opinion, if your serious about learning actual joinery there is some great content, most of which hasnt been popular in view count haha! But the reason for doing them is to pass some knowledge on!
@@BradshawJoinery I have a great workshop but it’s not equipped as good as yours mate and to be honest I’m running out of work space now My table saw take’s a lot of room up 🤪🤪
Yeah I try to keep some workspace and also keep the machines useable. I did away with the table saw, I've just a small one now, it's a compromise but deffo works for me
Yours are know exactly as serrated profile knives. Still sold and useable! The type with the pin location are caulled euro profile blocks. There are a few different pin spacing depending on manufacturer
What is the make of the chisel mortise machine ? Please recommend a small bench top version that is accurate enough to make mortises in sash windows. Very helpful, thanks.
Its a Sedgwick mortiser. I really dont have a clue about bench top machines as ive never used one! I imagine most would be ok provided they take normal chisel fittings, Decent chisel is key, I buy from cutting solutions
A 58mm door won't spring - I appreciate your reasoning and experience - but it will be interesting over the next couple of years how we accommodate thicker joinery profiles as the Building Regs change to allow for different and thicker glazing. Will we also have to allow for the stress / movement of the thicker timber on the glass and have thicker or different glazing silicone bed ...or even go back to a putty. That's a general comment on joinery - not a reflection on your work :)
Hi Robert, Im not totally sure if your saying it wont spring or reffering to something i said? Joinery, in my opinion only needs to be so efficient, There comes a point at which you need ventilation and draughts, so what the point in insulating to a silly degree to add in cold air anyway. Vacuum glazing will probably be the future and its very thin.
Hello, Thanks for your videos, they are really great.. I'm wondering as to why you put the moulding on the external side of these doors and when you make the oak casement windows you do it on the inside? Also Im wondering is it still good practice on an external door to hand cut and scribe the moulding on the stile where it meets the rails rather then doing as you have done in this video with the counterpart cutter on the tenons of the rails? Hope that makes sense.. Thanks again.
HI Pat, traditionally i have always put the mouldings on the inside. i dont believe normal timber to be stable enought to have a internal rebate..... however Accoya wood is a different matter. there is zero movement so a perfectly sealed and painted moulding you can seal the glass up to makes for a great weatherproof setup. the best infact!!!
You generally put beads on the inside to stop burglars from simply removing the beads & breaking in. On sash windows you putty the outside rather than bead as putty stands up to the elements better & also a glazer can replace the glass from the outside as a meeting rail blocks the rebate at the top of the bottom sash.
I’ve got a dedicated morticer and used to make doors/windows in a traditional way (wedged tenons for doors; normal tenons for windows). I now tend to use a Festool Domino XL to make large mortises in both rail and stile, making the loose tenon out of the same material. I’ve not had any issues doing it the domino way - but the real test will come long after I’m pushing up daisies. Do you have any experiences or thoughts about this? I have to admit that the domino way is easier on my arms and shoulders than the morticer. There is obviously a small saving on timber but not an argument either way
I have to say that i wouldnt see much of a problem if your using Accoya but i wouldnt trust a dominod door in hard or softwood to have the strength or integrity of a proper wedged mortice and tenon after say 5 years. For me though the big part of my work and what makes it quality and special is that you are getting the traditional joinery done properly. Suddenly if you take away the done properly part its a bit faux. Dont get me wrong though there is a huge if not the biggest market for work that looks the part but reasonably priced, (probably more profitable) but i enjoy the fact that when you inspect an item futher than face value, an onlooker that knows their stuff would give a satisfying nod rather than a shake of the head! For me that's the real beauty in the work and what i'm passionate about. Its kind of the reason i started doing youtube videos. The proper way of making things is disappearing and i thought it a good method to pass on what i was lucky enough to be taught or have learnt to people that will not have the oppourtunity to learn otherwise. Man ive written an essay here, i've got about 100 comments to reply to, lets hope i don't get as carried away on all of them! haha P.S. ive used some Morticers in the past that are absolutely brutal to work. the Sedgwick i have to say is fairly clinical in operation with a sharp chisel. doesnt take a huge amount of effort unless its real hard wood.
@@BradshawJoinery thank you for that. When I use a domino for doors, I must admit that I make repeated mortises in stiles and rails so that you might get a mortise 75mm X 12mm - I then make dominoes to fit. I would love to use the mortise more but both my shoulders (plus neck and back) are b*ggered - I was actually using the domino yesterday and even that, after 10 or so mortises, made me have to stop. I appreciate your marketing strategy; differentiating your work from off the shelf is the key point. I’m afraid that when I started, we had virtually none of the machinery now available and mortises were cut using an auger, followed by mortise chisels; tenons were cut by hand saw. We had to use warmed hide glue and I think that it is glues that have made the biggest difference for woodworkers today. We used to have to incorporate mechanical joints with chemical joints - that meant M & T as well as dovetails and locking scarf joints etc. Now, all the tests have shown that the timber is more likely to give way rather than the glue. If they had had this quality of glues then, I’m sure that Mr Chippendale would not have paid his workers to spend extra time cutting dovetails. I have only made for family and friends for years now and the only comment I ever had on dovetails was when a family friend said that she liked my hand-drawn picture of the piece but “ could I leave out those darts on the side as they look fussy”. As I say to everyone at this time, keep busy and keep healthy.
I don't know if you can help me with this but i am looking for 1/2" Router bits which would match the profiles you cut on your Routing machine, if you could point me in the right direction ( and possibly identify exactly what I should look for?) I'd be very grateful. I'm not being lazy, I just work most days and don't get the time to go looking myself so usually have to hunt for what I need on the internet--not always successfully, as in this case! Thanks very much!-have a couple of beers on me! ( I was referring to the Solid Timber External Door build-fabulous work, will be my most ambitious project to date!)
The cut at 55:40 is a lambs tongue profile. Wealdon tools do a cutter set very similar, you will have to check if the dimensions work for your project...! www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Lambs_Tongue_Sash_Cutters_652.html My cutters are from Whitehill tools for the spindle moulder and tenoner using HSS cutters. I use cutter Profilers UK for any custom cutters. If you have any more questions please ask Ian. Im sorry i didnt see your question/associate with the beers and im incredibly grateful!
The individual door would take a day on its own. A good day if you were painting it too and tidying up after! The whole screen french doors and sidelights glazed and all locked etc ready for fitting would take 5-7 full days. Depending on complexity more time even
@@BradshawJoinery You could/should cut the tenons edges on the narrow bandsaw.You only have to mark out one top rail and one bottom rail,just repeat the cuts for each ,saves a lot of time.Why were the bottom rails past the required length of the doors,it seems like a waste of timber?
High, I saw you where showing in the video cutting the mortices for the lock in advance, but the doors are built over sized. Do you take a reference somewhere and make tight fitting mortices or make your mortices oversized in height ?
Mortice is a precise location to work with a multipoint lock so it's all worked out before cutting. They are usually very tight to fit in depth wise so it's normally as deep as you can cut without going into the rebate/inside of the stile. In cases where there is plenty of stile width you can work to around 8/10mm depth accuracy/allowance 👍
How would I go about adding the moulding to a door I make if I don’t have a tennoning machine like yours. Can it be done on a router table after the tenons have been cut? I’m making an external door for my garage using your video as a guide, making through tennons properly wedged but I would like to add the moulding some how without planting it on. Cheers!
Yes you can scribe over the moulding by hand or mitre them at the joint, set the shoulder on the tenon to the deepest part of the moulding, then either mitre both pieces, or just mitre the tenon moulding to the same point at 45 degree and cut back the moulding to create the scribe. I think I've detailed it on a couple of other videos, I will find them
ua-cam.com/video/c7MRA4q3zGE/v-deo.html This is a hand cut scribe and should help, and ua-cam.com/video/9QmkNDVvVGo/v-deo.html Has hand cut scribes on a door which is probably better
@@BradshawJoinery perfect! Thank you, so helpful. Think I’ve been watching these videos on repeat day in day out lately lol. With regards to trying to achieve a moulding similar to what you put on the panelled cupboard door, which router cutter would you recommend if any? It’ll be for an external door so I’m not sure about size or profile etc.. thanks again. Feel like I should be paying for the amount of information I get from your videos lol
I'm not really a router expert, but the moulding on that door is lambs tongue, I'd look for either an ovalo or ogee cutter from Wealdon. Look for one that will work with the timber sizes your dealing with and draw it out if you need to first. For a moulding with 13mm from tenon to edge of timber I'd use a 7mm ovalo, so 3mm flat 7mm ovalo 3mm flat. Hope that makes sense
I see why they say a molding machine is one of the most dangerous equipment in the shop. all the extensions on the Blade. Could you do a video of a complete tutorial on a moulding machine?
@@BradshawJoinery Another brilliant video thanks. Love the little tips that you’d never read in any books. On the subject of spindle moulder videos, I was wondering if you could find the time to include using it for making tenons too? I know you’ve got a dedicated tenoner, but most of us don’t (and only a few have a moulder) but it would be really helpful to see how you use it for tenoning by comparison, especially as you have the sliding table on your moulder but I’ve never seen you use it in any of your videos. Your thoughts on the usefulness of the slider would be interesting (but I guess most of the time you’d not bother if you’ve got a power feeder?). Cheers 👍
I don't use the sliding table tbh. It's handy for access into the machine but for purpose of a sliding table I have no use. It would be relatively simple to make up a tenoning setup for use with it using either stacked tenon discs or a rebater and recessed top but so the tenon could pass over the block and make a sacrificial back fence. 👍
Great comprehensive videos, thank you. Came here after looking up Accoya but enjoy the rest as well. I'm in Canada and Accoya is not common here at all, so I look forward to the finishing video. What's the feeling on the long-term rot-resistance of it? The manufacturers say 50 years, but what's the sense from real-life users? Thanks again, B
It's pretty insane, I've had a slab or Tricoya outside for about 5 years now, it literally lives in a puddle in the yard up a corner, I uncovered it from the leaves and put a micrometer on it and it's less than 0.1mm different to when it was new. Still feels sound and sharp edges/ corners still strong, it's just green now with algea. Haha I've not gone back to a job yet that I've used it on. The only thing that's an issue with it is the fact it corrodes metal/finished quickly because of the acidity of the treatment chemical.
I had a quick look and I don't know where you are but there are a few companies distributing there. If you search Accoya distributors and go on the Accoya website it brings a list up
Thanks mate, I actually did this a while ago, but UCFP is a big giant, cold corporation and are hard to get any information out of. I sent them a request for pricing and retail locations and haven't heard back. I think they're just a distributer.
This timber is called Accoya. It's acetylated Radiata Pine, the modification process basically eliminated rot and seasonal movement in the timber. The glue I'm using is from Sovereign Chemicals UK
Hi Brian, I think Whitehill make a block for the Sedgwick TESH but I'm sure these blocks are standard on the machine direct from Sedgwick. They are combi heads, 4x carbide knives and 2x slots for profile cutters.
Great video mate with good attention to detail. I'm currently building a three door porch frame set in Accoya..use PU normally but you gotta be,quick. What's that glue you're using looks much thinner. Of up the work shop in half hour to crack on. We do quite a bit of spraying so looking forward to the painting vid .Appreciate the time taken cheers. Glue????
HI Charlie, I use sovereign Chemicals glue, their own brand one. Its a bit runnier than the likes of everbuild and some others, and i find takes a little longer to go off! but not much. it sets hard eventually, but is softer than other glues once initially dry so i find that helps clean up. i have been recommended that everbuild do a slow setting PU, ive not tried it yet, have you?
Have just acquired a 500 mile of social P 40 OR P45 ..its a much slower PU .... Also been introduced to a new modified radiata today that is processed in Wales . Bit heavier than Accoya but cheaper and with all the benefits. Think it's called liguina .. All the best . Charlie
Hi Charlie, that's great info. I assume you meant soudal p40 and the phone has corrected it..? Let me know how much time it gives you that could be interesting! I like the soudal products! Regarding the other timber, any more info on it? I can't find anything googling... Who sells it/manufactures if?
@@BradshawJoinery yes.... 40 P by Soudal is the one ... Apologies for spelling. Auto correction on my phone as you said ...The new timber is called Lignia and Covers from Chichester are e mailing me the details .Happy to ping them your direction ,,,just drop me an email to : cdworsfoldç@aol.com .....
I pretty much use Accoya for everything external. It's very dimensionally stable so you get no call backs. It also stays looks good for longer and it doesn't rot, even if the moisture gets in. Its supplied in nominal sizes pretty much imperfection free, it's nice to work with, leaves a nice finish, coatings last a long time on it. There aren't many reasons not to use it. Just make sure your following the rules if you do decide to use Accoya there are a few things that can trip you up
@@BradshawJoinery personally I use Sapele for external doors. I don't personally know much about accoya. Where can you get it nominally? I live in Wales (next to England lol)
Hi James, yes I use dominoes on certain jobs. You can see me using them on the Shaker Doors video on my channel here - ua-cam.com/video/oKqUGUYCWDA/v-deo.html
Brilliant video, thank you. Very informative, with loads of tips. In the Show More section above, the glue listed is shown as Titebond in the usual squeezy bottle. When filming, you used some form of mastic gun though. Was that the same glue in a different container?
Hi Peter, the glue used in the cartridge is a PU glue from Sovereign Chemicals called PU Rapid. The titebond I use with Accoya also, but most tasks I stick to polyurethane now! It's had a better flexibility and it's nice and quick too.
I probably shouldnt film using gloves, but with correct practices I personally prefer it. The strain on your hands/fingers and body from trying to grip timber without gloves will lead to rsi/ problems later on as alot of joiners suffer with, but i completely agree with the fact they are dangerous!
HI Ian, I wasnt aware that i had ignored you! Ive just had a good look through and i've seen your comment on here, please bear in mind i try to reply to every comment i get, but my list of unread comments from the past 3 weeks alone stretches into the hundreds. I saw you bought me some beers but no message came with them (as far as i could see), and will get round to thanking you for that. And will reply to your other comment now. I was notified of this comment here, but only about 1:20 comments notifies on my phone and i'm upset i've offended you, so please accept my apologies!
If you would like to show your support by giving back to us go to our Patreon page here - patreon.com/BradshawJoinery
If anyone want to learn a proper joinery, your channel by far is the best tutorial out there! Don't pay attention to the thumb down. They don't want guys like me to learn how to do it, They want us to go to their website for a monthly fees. I'm already paying for UA-cam,so why go to other website.?
Cheers Buddy, i tend to ignore the occasional thumb down, i know ive cliked them by accident before so i assume thats why! haha!!!
I'm surprised that you don't use stave block construction on your exterior doors for stability. Your a very talented craftsman.
I can’t believe your machinery. And I thought I had a lot of great tools! Simply brilliant work, my friend. Thanks for sharing.
Thankyou for that! 👍👍
Retired American carpenter slamming pre-made "finger-joint prime" doors in to track houses and trimming out Doctors offices and Banks. Finally applying real woodworking skills long rusted from the pursuit of money American style--- Fast. Great channel this.
Haha thanks Scott!!! seems alot gets left behind in production work, i wonder how many people will look back at carpenty work completed in this generation and be impressed with what they are seeing such as we can with alot of historic buildings of the past. Seems fals economy to fit a chipboard door, they dont last 10 years. There are doors in houses over here centuries old.
Hi Andrew. I agree with other comments. You have the best video on door construction that I have seen. Love the detail. Keep them coming. Thank you
Thanks Leigh, that's awesome to hear!
I would guess this door will outlast all of us! Nice video.
Cheers Tom, yeah hopefully! 🤣
Great video to watch, a true craftsman.
Thanks 👍
One of the best videos I've come across on UA-cam regarding door construction, Keep up the good work and I look forward to your future content.
Thankyou Very much Robert. I'm Refurbishing some sash windows at the minute, so keep your eyes peeled for that!
@@BradshawJoinery excellent!
That's been my day job for the last twenty years😀
Awesome! Are you London based? I've not refurbished many, perhaps 20 in total, but I've made a lot of brand new ones!
@@BradshawJoinery I'm based in Dublin ireland. Best of luck with the job.
Very well done. A real pleasure to watch......and learn. Top video by a top Professional. Great.
Thanks Stephen, appreciate the comment.
Best video on here!
I'm studying Joinery at the moment and recently I have been doing "research" on youtube but far too often I either find people using the festool dominos (I'm not knocking it but when it comes to homework its rather unhelpful!) or one where I had to laugh where a guy nailed together peaces of ply-wood to fake the look of a traditional door!
The video is really informative! thank you for taking the time to do this!
Thankyou Davyd, that's really good to hear! What aspect of joinery are you studying?
Everything has its place and the domino is a brilliant tool, but you can't beat the traditional methods sometimes!!
@@BradshawJoinery No problem! I'm studying level 3 Bench joinery at EBC, at the moment we are doing curved work on the spindle moulder!
@@davydmir6565 awesome! I was studying level 3 joinery around 10 years ago at Leicester college! If you can get working making bespoke joinery you'll never be bored or out of work! Certainly keeps you on your toes!!
@@BradshawJoinery Cool! That's good to hear! I also want to study wood machining, there's definitely a dark art to it lol!
What a fabulous and informative video, nice to see a fellow Leicester Lad producing great work.
Thanks a lot Paul.
A fantastic insight into a professional joiners technique for making this type of door. Very helpful and by far the best video, of this type, I’ve found on UA-cam. Thanks very much for sharing and I’m looking forward to watching your other videos👍👍👍
Thanks for taking the time to comment Neil! That's really great to hear! :D
Magnificent video. my career has been in exhibition and shopfitting, working with architects and contractors. Seeing your work puts this wonderful vocation into perspective.
Hey Keith, While not far afield from joinery there can be quite a gap between the two and have completely different techniques! I always regretted not going that route as everyone i knew earnt more money doing that route haha!! Hopefully this will pay off.
@@BradshawJoinery Well that can be the case, I always felt that those at the coalface of making were a bit un appreciated. My job started in imagining the vision and then working with the doers to make it happen.
One of my favorite yt-channel, thanks a lot...✌️
Brilliant, thanks Rudi.
Hi, just want to say your videos are excellent, we are currently renovating our house and your videos are a god send. They are by far the most helpful I've watched. Although I have an engineering background, its sometimes quite hard transferring across to wordworking. God loves a trier! Mike
Awesome to hear Mike!!! thanks for such a positive comment!!!:D
Really good video had to laugh how subtle the dog was with the ball
Haha, Without watching it back i cannot remember, but there is always a stray dog toy lying around somewhere!
Dear Oliver, something I've been wondering: what determines which type of mortise and tenon to use on any given project? In this case the haunch with wedge. Also what determines the length of the tenon itself and whether or not to use a full through tenon or a stopped tenon? Thanks very much and thank you so much for the effort you put in to helping us all. Keep it up and best wishes to you.
There are no actual rules when it comes to jointery. Everything is rule of thumb or whatever you were taught to do, anyone that say's otherwise is a liar, no one's ever built two doors with slightly different tenon lengths, then destroyed them both to see which is stronger. You could build a door like this with biscuits and it'll outlive you.
Haunches are supposed to stop the door from twisting over time
Great video! Would love to see some more on the lining and sill etc. and weather proofing. Amazing that you're willing to invest so much time making in depth videos for us! Thank you!
Hi Andrew, I did a video on the frame scribing but as you say it wasn't focused on the frame more the scribing work. I will do one in the future on the frame 👍👍. Is there a specific frame type /cill your interested in as there are lots of options.
@@BradshawJoinery I wish I knew what types there are! I'm only clued up in the world of furniture! I guess it's how you go about stopping the water coming under the door, in terms of weather bars and drip grooves and the general construction etc. Wish I could be more specific, but having learnt everything I know in cabinet making shops over the last 10yrs, it really isn't an area I know much about (didn't study joinery at college), but want to learn at least some basics. Are there any good basic joinery books you could recommend? Thanks again!
Wow what a brilliant video.
Cheers Alex!
Great job done.
Thanks Azim
Great videos, I have searched long and hard before finding this sort of content within a professional enviroment. You deserve a much wider following than you are currenty getting.
Hi Andrew, thank you for the comment and for watching! Subscribers are kreeps get up, I will keep uploading and see what happens. 😀
In my country we cut the wedges from the tenons themselves (which are left oversized) instead of angling the mortises, but I reckon your process is more effective since it creates a kind of a dovetail.Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the info Buddy, where are you from? There are some in this country that cut the mortice square and slot the tennon and wedge into the slots, if that makes sence?
I'm from Portugal. But I think the process we use was borrowed somehow from the french. The french style windows became the norm here before being mostly replaced by uPVC or aluminium units. Interestingly the very old buildings had sash windows like in the UK.
This is traditional joinery, well done with the descriptions and filming, it was very informative! I particularly like the tenoner set up that you used. I like the way you do the tenons first and then match the mortice locations, as you pointed out, rather than the other way around. I have done it, mortice first, mostly in the middle of the stile, depending on glass thickness and beading, and then set up a spindle moulder with slide rail and a two part tenoning head, and then trying to get tenon thickness to match. This way looks way better and an a much easier set up, also like the three cutter head set up - keep up the good work I'll look out for more videos. Would you consider doing a video doing a sash build for a double hung window and go through, amongst other things, the meeting rail process with the bevelled edges and forked tenon, I reckon prospective joiners like myself would gain allot of insight, just a request. Well done man great work very professional!! Andrew
Nice one! the tenoning method was a revelation to me, it just came to me one day and i was like, how or why have i not done this before..Ive done a sash window build, check out the sash restoration playlist. slightly different in that its internally glazed... Although im yet to finish the windows! haha
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks yes I feel a bit silly I found this just after posting the comment, yes that build (the window restoration) is really good has heaps of great info.Thanks again I reckon there a people out there like me who gain allot from your videos and commentry - good stuff!!! BTW looks like you use 'skecthup'for your drawings - how have you found it? Know of any others you'd recommend, if not this. I'm interested in one for joinery (door and windows) and stairs is my thing. Note I don't own a Cnc just cutting out by hand with a router etc but maybe one day get one or access to one.
Great video lots of useful information
Kind of you Pete, thanks :)
Beautiful,essential,and very usefull video.Thank you very much,you helped me a lot !!!
Thanks Ianis
Very informative excellent finished door, you take the time and effort to go through every stage top notch stuff 👍
Niceone Kieran! Thanks for the comment!
Just found your channel by looking for how to build a door. Great job. So much involved with the decorative moulding and so many big machines. You got a subscriber here
Thankyou Lee! There are a few door builds on my channel, have a root around and see what is relevant
Really informative video. Thank you
Thanks Kevin!
I am liking it very much .Nice video.
Thanks for the kinds words buddy. All the more coming from a legend like yourself!!!
Absolutely wonderful to see such a professional at work, giving so many very useful tips and tricks. Just a shame that I've only just finished a new front door for our cottage! I could have really benefitted from this video during the making (although I think I got most things about right.)
Thanks very much - I'll definitely be subscribing.
Thankyou Ian, very good or you to say! Pleased to hear the door went well! There is quite a lot to consider when making even a simple door if it's bespoke!
Thanks for all that you do with your videos, they are great for me as a joiner and carpenter, always useful to get a different perspective from someone with your experience. I wanted to ask where you order your accoya from these days? Thanks a lot
Thanks so much for all your videos, really informative.
HI Levin, Its a pleasure to do when they are appreciated, so thankyou very much!
Great videos! Could you please tell me what glue you are using on accoya? 😊
please do more door constructiion videos
There are a few on my channel, have you seen all of them? Oak cupboard, poanel door, side gate
Really enjoyed this. Great workmanship. Stunning workshop. Regrettably after several watches I didn't understand the 3mm thing at around 7m plus. But the rest of the explanations and build were clear... this 3mm thing never seemed to resurface. I'm sure one day the penny will drop for me... I guess I'd need a physical representation. Anyway... Lovely work and you've gained a subscriber.😀
Hi Andrew, thankyou for the subscription and I'm glad it made sence mostly! The 3mm thing, is me getting confused on this job, I had in my head they were less deep rebates than I normally use and would therefore leave a wider flat on the inside edge of the door everywhere it is rebated. So on the rails this would mean you are left with a section of timber running along the tennon which has to be removed manually (as the rebate cut hasn't removed it) before it will fit in the mortice. These doors are part of a bigger job which the glazing is being fitted with a putty replacement product, however, these doors aren't being glazed in that fashion and I explained it wrong. Thankfully the doors were right 🤣
Accoya is a modified softwood, usually plantation grown Pinus Radiata,, which has been modified by acetylation ( boil under pressure in vinegar). Has a density of about 550 kg per cubic metre. A lot of it comes from New Zealand.
Stavros
Thats the one, The chemical is Acetic Acid, Much stronger than Vinegar, The Accys guy said if you are int he same room as a cup full of this stuff it will draw the moisture out from your eyes.
@@BradshawJoinery what makes it so suitable for joinery other than being very dry / stable? It seems to me that it's fairly weak since it grows so fast, having only a handful of growth rings visible in a 58mm piece of timber seems like a bad thing to me. I understand we can't build everything out of quarter sawn oak and maple but this looks quite the opposite :)
These video's are great, really well explained 👍
Thanks James. I need to do some more but work is getting in the way!
You should do a video on coping profiles (interior or exterior) on rails with long tenons with affordable machinery. That would be a useful video.
Ive kinda covered it int he oak casement window series. i do the tennons using a circular saw, but exactly the same method using a bandsaw just feeding the timber horizontally not vertically. There is also a video on hand scribing mouldings somewhere
@@BradshawJoinery I'm talking about machining cope profiles on long tenons. Is the best solution a big shaper and custom large diameter cutters?
Not if you are kit limited. Create a tenon and square shoulder you can cope the profile by hand for smaller projects. If your at a point where this isn't economical, then tenoning machine isn't really a huge step up. Something like a multico is perfect and very small footprint/cost
@@BradshawJoinery Multico is s good solution. Is it possible to cope a 3 or 4 in wide rail by hand after I cut the tenon say on a table saw. You say you have a video on this?
Depending what part of the process you want to watch from go to about 40 mins in this one ua-cam.com/video/9QmkNDVvVGo/v-deo.html or covered in this one here. ua-cam.com/video/c7MRA4q3zGE/v-deo.html
Method for producing accurate tenons here... ua-cam.com/video/m6nAAXPJScE/v-deo.html
Everyday this same,,and that timber,Acoya,,dont liked..greatings from dublin
Wow… I’ve been following you for some time now, and I must say this has got to be one of your best videos to date Great in-depth content
Your very talented and thank you for sharing this with us 👍👍👍👍
HI Carl, thanks mate, yeah in my opinion, if your serious about learning actual joinery there is some great content, most of which hasnt been popular in view count haha! But the reason for doing them is to pass some knowledge on!
@@BradshawJoinery
I have a great workshop but it’s not equipped as good as yours mate and to be honest I’m running out of work space now
My table saw take’s a lot of room up
🤪🤪
Yeah I try to keep some workspace and also keep the machines useable. I did away with the table saw, I've just a small one now, it's a compromise but deffo works for me
Those shaper knives have a different way of being held in the molding head than I use. Mine have a serrated back.
Yours are know exactly as serrated profile knives. Still sold and useable! The type with the pin location are caulled euro profile blocks. There are a few different pin spacing depending on manufacturer
what species of wood would you consider appropriate for these exterior doors?
Externally ive used the following in order of least durable to most....
Redwood /pine
Douglas fir
Idigbo
Meranti
Sapele
Iroko
Utile
Oak
Accoya.
What is the make of the chisel mortise machine ? Please recommend a small bench top version that is accurate enough to make mortises in sash windows. Very helpful, thanks.
Its a Sedgwick mortiser. I really dont have a clue about bench top machines as ive never used one! I imagine most would be ok provided they take normal chisel fittings, Decent chisel is key, I buy from cutting solutions
A 58mm door won't spring - I appreciate your reasoning and experience - but it will be interesting over the next couple of years how we accommodate thicker joinery profiles as the Building Regs change to allow for different and thicker glazing. Will we also have to allow for the stress / movement of the thicker timber on the glass and have thicker or different glazing silicone bed ...or even go back to a putty. That's a general comment on joinery - not a reflection on your work :)
Hi Robert, Im not totally sure if your saying it wont spring or reffering to something i said? Joinery, in my opinion only needs to be so efficient, There comes a point at which you need ventilation and draughts, so what the point in insulating to a silly degree to add in cold air anyway. Vacuum glazing will probably be the future and its very thin.
Hello, Thanks for your videos, they are really great.. I'm wondering as to why you put the moulding on the external side of these doors and when you make the oak casement windows you do it on the inside? Also Im wondering is it still good practice on an external door to hand cut and scribe the moulding on the stile where it meets the rails rather then doing as you have done in this video with the counterpart cutter on the tenons of the rails? Hope that makes sense.. Thanks again.
HI Pat, traditionally i have always put the mouldings on the inside. i dont believe normal timber to be stable enought to have a internal rebate..... however Accoya wood is a different matter. there is zero movement so a perfectly sealed and painted moulding you can seal the glass up to makes for a great weatherproof setup. the best infact!!!
You generally put beads on the inside to stop burglars from simply removing the beads & breaking in.
On sash windows you putty the outside rather than bead as putty stands up to the elements better & also a glazer can replace the glass from the outside as a meeting rail blocks the rebate at the top of the bottom sash.
Not under stand machine in detail?
Otherwise Great,👌👌👌
Which machine do you not understand
I’ve got a dedicated morticer and used to make doors/windows in a traditional way (wedged tenons for doors; normal tenons for windows). I now tend to use a Festool Domino XL to make large mortises in both rail and stile, making the loose tenon out of the same material. I’ve not had any issues doing it the domino way - but the real test will come long after I’m pushing up daisies.
Do you have any experiences or thoughts about this? I have to admit that the domino way is easier on my arms and shoulders than the morticer. There is obviously a small saving on timber but not an argument either way
I have to say that i wouldnt see much of a problem if your using Accoya but i wouldnt trust a dominod door in hard or softwood to have the strength or integrity of a proper wedged mortice and tenon after say 5 years.
For me though the big part of my work and what makes it quality and special is that you are getting the traditional joinery done properly. Suddenly if you take away the done properly part its a bit faux. Dont get me wrong though there is a huge if not the biggest market for work that looks the part but reasonably priced, (probably more profitable) but i enjoy the fact that when you inspect an item futher than face value, an onlooker that knows their stuff would give a satisfying nod rather than a shake of the head! For me that's the real beauty in the work and what i'm passionate about. Its kind of the reason i started doing youtube videos. The proper way of making things is disappearing and i thought it a good method to pass on what i was lucky enough to be taught or have learnt to people that will not have the oppourtunity to learn otherwise.
Man ive written an essay here, i've got about 100 comments to reply to, lets hope i don't get as carried away on all of them! haha
P.S. ive used some Morticers in the past that are absolutely brutal to work. the Sedgwick i have to say is fairly clinical in operation with a sharp chisel. doesnt take a huge amount of effort unless its real hard wood.
@@BradshawJoinery thank you for that. When I use a domino for doors, I must admit that I make repeated mortises in stiles and rails so that you might get a mortise 75mm X 12mm - I then make dominoes to fit. I would love to use the mortise more but both my shoulders (plus neck and back) are b*ggered - I was actually using the domino yesterday and even that, after 10 or so mortises, made me have to stop.
I appreciate your marketing strategy; differentiating your work from off the shelf is the key point. I’m afraid that when I started, we had virtually none of the machinery now available and mortises were cut using an auger, followed by mortise chisels; tenons were cut by hand saw. We had to use warmed hide glue and I think that it is glues that have made the biggest difference for woodworkers today. We used to have to incorporate mechanical joints with chemical joints - that meant M & T as well as dovetails and locking scarf joints etc. Now, all the tests have shown that the timber is more likely to give way rather than the glue. If they had had this quality of glues then, I’m sure that Mr Chippendale would not have paid his workers to spend extra time cutting dovetails. I have only made for family and friends for years now and the only comment I ever had on dovetails was when a family friend said that she liked my hand-drawn picture of the piece but “ could I leave out those darts on the side as they look fussy”.
As I say to everyone at this time, keep busy and keep healthy.
I don't know if you can help me with this but i am looking for 1/2" Router bits which would match the profiles you cut on your Routing machine, if you could point me in the right direction ( and possibly identify exactly what I should look for?) I'd be very grateful. I'm not being lazy, I just work most days and don't get the time to go looking myself so usually have to hunt for what I need on the internet--not always successfully, as in this case!
Thanks very much!-have a couple of beers on me!
( I was referring to the Solid Timber External Door build-fabulous work, will be my most ambitious project to date!)
The cut at 55:40 is a lambs tongue profile. Wealdon tools do a cutter set very similar, you will have to check if the dimensions work for your project...! www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Lambs_Tongue_Sash_Cutters_652.html
My cutters are from Whitehill tools for the spindle moulder and tenoner using HSS cutters. I use cutter Profilers UK for any custom cutters. If you have any more questions please ask Ian. Im sorry i didnt see your question/associate with the beers and im incredibly grateful!
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks-will get back to you!
Really good videos highlighting your skills, thanks for sharing. Can i ask what timber you are using?
I think hes,using Accoya . Its expensive but has some great qualities ...it needs special glues and stainless steel fixings ....hope of help.
Yes it's Accoya
Cracking build.... What was the actual time it took ?
The individual door would take a day on its own. A good day if you were painting it too and tidying up after!
The whole screen french doors and sidelights glazed and all locked etc ready for fitting would take 5-7 full days. Depending on complexity more time even
@@BradshawJoinery You could/should cut the tenons edges on the narrow bandsaw.You only have to mark out one top rail and one bottom rail,just repeat the cuts for each ,saves a lot of time.Why were the bottom rails past the required length of the doors,it seems like a waste of timber?
High, I saw you where showing in the video cutting the mortices for the lock in advance, but the doors are built over sized. Do you take a reference somewhere and make tight fitting mortices or make your mortices oversized in height ?
Mortice is a precise location to work with a multipoint lock so it's all worked out before cutting. They are usually very tight to fit in depth wise so it's normally as deep as you can cut without going into the rebate/inside of the stile. In cases where there is plenty of stile width you can work to around 8/10mm depth accuracy/allowance 👍
Fabulous video. I'd love a spindle moulder. Only problems are a) I can't afford one, and b) they frighten me to death.
Thankyou Kevin! Without experienced training i think they are a tool best left alone. A bit like a chainsaw would be...
How would I go about adding the moulding to a door I make if I don’t have a tennoning machine like yours. Can it be done on a router table after the tenons have been cut? I’m making an external door for my garage using your video as a guide, making through tennons properly wedged but I would like to add the moulding some how without planting it on. Cheers!
Yes you can scribe over the moulding by hand or mitre them at the joint, set the shoulder on the tenon to the deepest part of the moulding, then either mitre both pieces, or just mitre the tenon moulding to the same point at 45 degree and cut back the moulding to create the scribe. I think I've detailed it on a couple of other videos, I will find them
ua-cam.com/video/c7MRA4q3zGE/v-deo.html
This is a hand cut scribe and should help, and ua-cam.com/video/9QmkNDVvVGo/v-deo.html
Has hand cut scribes on a door which is probably better
@@BradshawJoinery perfect! Thank you, so helpful. Think I’ve been watching these videos on repeat day in day out lately lol. With regards to trying to achieve a moulding similar to what you put on the panelled cupboard door, which router cutter would you recommend if any? It’ll be for an external door so I’m not sure about size or profile etc.. thanks again. Feel like I should be paying for the amount of information I get from your videos lol
I'm not really a router expert, but the moulding on that door is lambs tongue,
I'd look for either an ovalo or ogee cutter from Wealdon. Look for one that will work with the timber sizes your dealing with and draw it out if you need to first.
For a moulding with 13mm from tenon to edge of timber I'd use a 7mm ovalo, so 3mm flat 7mm ovalo 3mm flat. Hope that makes sense
@@BradshawJoinery thank you mate . Very helpful
I see why they say a molding machine is one of the most dangerous equipment in the shop. all the extensions on the Blade. Could you do a video of a complete tutorial on a moulding machine?
I have been thinking about it, ill work on it
@@BradshawJoinery Another brilliant video thanks. Love the little tips that you’d never read in any books. On the subject of spindle moulder videos, I was wondering if you could find the time to include using it for making tenons too? I know you’ve got a dedicated tenoner, but most of us don’t (and only a few have a moulder) but it would be really helpful to see how you use it for tenoning by comparison, especially as you have the sliding table on your moulder but I’ve never seen you use it in any of your videos. Your thoughts on the usefulness of the slider would be interesting (but I guess most of the time you’d not bother if you’ve got a power feeder?). Cheers 👍
I don't use the sliding table tbh. It's handy for access into the machine but for purpose of a sliding table I have no use. It would be relatively simple to make up a tenoning setup for use with it using either stacked tenon discs or a rebater and recessed top but so the tenon could pass over the block and make a sacrificial back fence. 👍
Great comprehensive videos, thank you. Came here after looking up Accoya but enjoy the rest as well. I'm in Canada and Accoya is not common here at all, so I look forward to the finishing video.
What's the feeling on the long-term rot-resistance of it? The manufacturers say 50 years, but what's the sense from real-life users?
Thanks again,
B
It's pretty insane, I've had a slab or Tricoya outside for about 5 years now, it literally lives in a puddle in the yard up a corner, I uncovered it from the leaves and put a micrometer on it and it's less than 0.1mm different to when it was new. Still feels sound and sharp edges/ corners still strong, it's just green now with algea. Haha I've not gone back to a job yet that I've used it on. The only thing that's an issue with it is the fact it corrodes metal/finished quickly because of the acidity of the treatment chemical.
I had a quick look and I don't know where you are but there are a few companies distributing there.
If you search Accoya distributors and go on the Accoya website it brings a list up
Thanks mate, I actually did this a while ago, but UCFP is a big giant, cold corporation and are hard to get any information out of. I sent them a request for pricing and retail locations and haven't heard back. I think they're just a distributer.
what kind of lumber used in this build?and also sorry for my ignorance but where can I get glue in tube ?
This timber is called Accoya. It's acetylated Radiata Pine, the modification process basically eliminated rot and seasonal movement in the timber.
The glue I'm using is from Sovereign Chemicals UK
Can you tell me the type of tenoner block and the tenoner you using I suspect that the block is a Whitehills.
Hi Brian, I think Whitehill make a block for the Sedgwick TESH but I'm sure these blocks are standard on the machine direct from Sedgwick. They are combi heads, 4x carbide knives and 2x slots for profile cutters.
Great video mate with good attention to detail. I'm currently building a three door porch frame set in Accoya..use PU normally but you gotta be,quick. What's that glue you're using looks much thinner. Of up the work shop in half hour to crack on. We do quite a bit of spraying so looking forward to the painting vid .Appreciate the time taken cheers. Glue????
Any chance of a bane for the glue you use . Would be very grateful ..
Charlie .......
HI Charlie, I use sovereign Chemicals glue, their own brand one. Its a bit runnier than the likes of everbuild and some others, and i find takes a little longer to go off! but not much. it sets hard eventually, but is softer than other glues once initially dry so i find that helps clean up. i have been recommended that everbuild do a slow setting PU, ive not tried it yet, have you?
Have just acquired a 500 mile of social P 40 OR P45 ..its a much slower PU ....
Also been introduced to a new modified radiata today that is processed in Wales . Bit heavier than Accoya but cheaper and with all the benefits. Think it's called liguina ..
All the best . Charlie
Hi Charlie, that's great info. I assume you meant soudal p40 and the phone has corrected it..? Let me know how much time it gives you that could be interesting! I like the soudal products!
Regarding the other timber, any more info on it? I can't find anything googling... Who sells it/manufactures if?
@@BradshawJoinery yes.... 40 P by Soudal is the one ... Apologies for spelling. Auto correction on my phone as you said ...The new timber is called Lignia and Covers from Chichester are e mailing me the details .Happy to ping them your direction ,,,just drop me an email to : cdworsfoldç@aol.com .....
Great work!
What species of timber are you using?
Thank you, it's Accoya
@@BradshawJoinery why did you choose accoya ?
I pretty much use Accoya for everything external. It's very dimensionally stable so you get no call backs. It also stays looks good for longer and it doesn't rot, even if the moisture gets in. Its supplied in nominal sizes pretty much imperfection free, it's nice to work with, leaves a nice finish, coatings last a long time on it. There aren't many reasons not to use it. Just make sure your following the rules if you do decide to use Accoya there are a few things that can trip you up
@@BradshawJoinery personally I use Sapele for external doors. I don't personally know much about accoya. Where can you get it nominally? I live in Wales (next to England lol)
Can the tanon be split for vedges,on the edge
I'm not completely sure what your asking, but the tenon can be wedged by cutting a wedge slot within it, negating the need for wedge room at the edges
@@BradshawJoinery yes,i mean cut on bandsaw wedge on tanone on Booth sides.
Hi don’t you use dominos for any of your joinery ?
Hi James, yes I use dominoes on certain jobs. You can see me using them on the Shaker Doors video on my channel here - ua-cam.com/video/oKqUGUYCWDA/v-deo.html
Brilliant video, thank you. Very informative, with loads of tips. In the Show More section above, the glue listed is shown as Titebond in the usual squeezy bottle. When filming, you used some form of mastic gun though. Was that the same glue in a different container?
Hi Peter, the glue used in the cartridge is a PU glue from Sovereign Chemicals called PU Rapid. The titebond I use with Accoya also, but most tasks I stick to polyurethane now! It's had a better flexibility and it's nice and quick too.
las espigas las has debilitado demasiado .siendo estas el soporte de la horizontalidad
Google translate says weakened the spikes. This method is good, been using it for a ling time as were they guys who taught me!
Love the video but the gloves scare me to death when using the machines
I probably shouldnt film using gloves, but with correct practices I personally prefer it. The strain on your hands/fingers and body from trying to grip timber without gloves will lead to rsi/ problems later on as alot of joiners suffer with, but i completely agree with the fact they are dangerous!
👍💪💪👍👍🙏
Thankyou!!
Thanks for ignoring me-hope you enjoyed your beers.
HI Ian, I wasnt aware that i had ignored you! Ive just had a good look through and i've seen your comment on here, please bear in mind i try to reply to every comment i get, but my list of unread comments from the past 3 weeks alone stretches into the hundreds. I saw you bought me some beers but no message came with them (as far as i could see), and will get round to thanking you for that. And will reply to your other comment now. I was notified of this comment here, but only about 1:20 comments notifies on my phone and i'm upset i've offended you, so please accept my apologies!
Shit hot
Lol thanks Stephen
#
:)
less work and less talk so it will be more interesting