⚠️⚠️⚠️*****WARNING*****⚠️⚠️⚠️ If you are of a nervous disposition please avoid watching the section from 14:45 to 15:15. You can't say I haven't warned you! Cheers Andrew
A hot Tuesday morning in sunny Arizona, a cup of coffee, and another great video of your build! Odds and Ends will be my next build, and your videos are the perfect intro to what I have to look forward to. Thanks for an excellent series!
Hey John - I'm really glad it's going to be your next build. It's a bit of a strange design (in my eyes anyway). I hope it turns out well. All the best. Andrew
Hi - I learned a lot when I machined the valves for the Jerry Howell Farm Boy. However, I can't believe how well these valves seated either. Maybe my lucky day! Cheers Andrew
Hello Andrew, Like John Fox said, I ducked when the air line let loose. Quite a surprise ! Good work with the valves and test manifold. I should be back on the build tomorrow.
Hi Earl - I hope the family reunion went well. We are nearly there with this little engine! I've been thinking of ignition and am wondering whether to try making points as suggested in the drawings or go with a hall censor. I'll drop you an email to get your views. All the best. Andrew
Nice to see how your build is progressing Andrew. It's really satisfying when things go right first time. 15:04 was funny - glad you leave these things in - they happen to the best of us!
Tuesday morning coffee with Andrew. My friend you are giving me many hints as to why I have lost compression on my engine I will try them out when I get back to work on mine. I really like the test manifold for the intake and exhaust valves. See you next time.
Thanks Dick - I see you are managing to make steady progress with your little Frodo despite other demands on your time. I hope those chipmunks are behaving themselves! All the best. Andrew
Hi Andrew, I think you got everybody's attention with that, you should of issued a public health warning for those of a nervous disposition..... 😂 Great video can't wait to see the end result.....
Hi Andrew, another inspiring video. Thank you. I couldn't help noticing that the exhaust valve spring had what looked like quite a few bound coils, and it didn't look too far from getting fully "coil bound".
Hi Steve. Yeah, making springs isn't one of my strong points. I think it will be OK as there is plenty of space between valve seats when it's in the open position. Worse case I could make another with fewer coils. Something for me to check on when doing final assembly. Cheers Andrew
Thanks for the suggestion. I've used Brasso in the past and it's pretty decent for fine lapping. However, I tend to use fine and ultra fine lapping paste made by Moleroda. Cheers Andrew
Well done Andrew, be careful with your spring winding, see how it whipped. I will personally email you with pictures and sizes of a hand spring winder. It has a friction pad to tension the wire and a tapered guide plate to save you keep guessing the pitch. Easy to make, as an apprentice it was one of the training school exercises for my toolbox. Regards from Australia.
Hey thanks Dave - that would be a nice little project for me to have a go at. I've just got a TIG welder, so having some fun with that today. All the best. Andrew
Hi Pierre - I think that is definitely possible and a great method to produce several identical springs. However, I hate messing around changing gear ratios on my lathe. For me it was a lot easier just using a mandrel. Thanks for the suggestion though. Cheers Andrew
Very entertaining, well produced video and great work. Those valves must be considered perfect being airtight like that. What a valve arrangement versus the cylinder. It must have been very inefficient. Working for a reputated car manufactorer I remember the engine designers talking about inlets/outlets, how the engingin is breathing. This engine must have been briething like having a serious lung desease....
Thanks Andrew for more great stuff. I wonder though wether you nuttered the valve stems. When you are drilling the 0.060" hole you say that you have cut the stems to length and later you face the valve head thus presumably ending up with a short valve. Cheers, John
Hi John - I think you might be correct. I guess that they could be a few thou short of spec but it isn't a critical measurement. There is plenty of distance between valve seats when they are in the open position. The link to the exhaust valve is also adjustable, so I don't think it will be a problem. When I take it apart prior to the final assembly I will check it out of curiosity. All the best. Andrew
Thanks Jon - it's relatively cheap compressor I used for airbrushing on the woodturning lathe. It's an AS186 with a pressure tank on top. I think it can get beyond 60psi. There are versions without a tank, but they will run all the time. It's OK for very light work. It wouldn't be powerful enough to run proper air tools. Cheers Andrew
Hi Peter. For the keepers I reduced some round brass bar just greater then the spring od. I then reduced 1/32" of the od to a dimension just smaller than the id of the spring. Then I drilled through 1/8". I think I parted them off to an overall width of 3/32". The keepers were held in place by a split pin pushed through the 40 thou hole I drilled in the stem at the beginning of the video. Cheers Andrew
That first air leak didn’t seem hard to find , ha ha 😂 ! Great job on the valves , any concerns about the silver solder in regards to the heat when the engine is running ?
Ha ha thanks mate! I think the melting point of silver solder is around 600°C (~1,100°F). If my little engine gets close to that temperature I think I will have other things to think about- like looking for the fire extinguisher ha ha. All the best. Andrew
Ha ha - me too! The hit and miss engines operate the exhaust valve via a link from the cam gear. When hitting a certain speed the governor will kick in and stop the link from closing - keeping the exhaust halve open. With the exhaust valve open, the engine will loose all compression and coast along until the revs reduce to a certain level. The exhaust valve will the close. The inlet valve has no physical link to open/close it. When the exhaust valve is closed and the engine returns on the intake stroke, it generates lots of suction. It is the suction that opens the inlet valve and lets fuel into the cylinder. If the intake valve spring is too strong, the suction on the down stroke will not be enough to open it - so it will be starved of fuel. If the inlet valve spring is too weak it will not close the valve properly on the upward stroke and compression will be lost. This method makes for a far simpler engine design, but it would not work well with higher revving and more powerful engines. I think that getting the inlet valve spring to be the correct strength is one of the most important aspects of hit and miss engines. I think my inlet valve spring is a little on the weak side, but we will have to see how it turns out in real life. The way in which the inlet valve operates, often creates a 'snorting' sound which is a familiar aspect of these engines. I hope that helps explain my limited understanding of how they work. Cheers Andrew
An explosive episode!😂 Very impressed with how those valves have seated. How did you stop the valve heads sliding down the shafts when you soldered them?
Hi Tim. I should have mentioned in the video that I use a little centre punch to reduce the inside diameter at the top of the hole in each head. That stops them from sliding down and allows for some machining off the top of the head. I can't believe how well they have seated either. My machining skills must have improved - or maybe it was just my lucky day! All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal A neat trick. I do recall you doing that before now you mention it. There is truth in that old saying 'The more I know the luckier I get'.
⚠️⚠️⚠️*****WARNING*****⚠️⚠️⚠️
If you are of a nervous disposition please avoid watching the section from 14:45 to 15:15.
You can't say I haven't warned you!
Cheers
Andrew
I like that Andrew, well done.
Thanks James!
Great video Andrew, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Stephen!
A hot Tuesday morning in sunny Arizona, a cup of coffee, and another great video of your build! Odds and Ends will be my next build, and your videos are the perfect intro to what I have to look forward to. Thanks for an excellent series!
Hey John - I'm really glad it's going to be your next build. It's a bit of a strange design (in my eyes anyway). I hope it turns out well.
All the best.
Andrew
That definitely got my attention, nice work.
Thanks Jay!
Amazing how well your valves seat and seal! 👍
Hi - I learned a lot when I machined the valves for the Jerry Howell Farm Boy. However, I can't believe how well these valves seated either. Maybe my lucky day!
Cheers
Andrew
Hello Andrew, Like John Fox said, I ducked when the air line let loose. Quite a surprise ! Good work with the valves and test manifold. I should be back on the build tomorrow.
Hi Earl - I hope the family reunion went well. We are nearly there with this little engine! I've been thinking of ignition and am wondering whether to try making points as suggested in the drawings or go with a hall censor. I'll drop you an email to get your views.
All the best.
Andrew
Awesome job!
Thanks mate!
Nice to see how your build is progressing Andrew. It's really satisfying when things go right first time. 15:04 was funny - glad you leave these things in - they happen to the best of us!
Ha ha - thanks mate. It took me by surprise!
Cheers
Andrew
Tuesday morning coffee with Andrew. My friend you are giving me many hints as to why I have lost compression on my engine I will try them out when I get back to work on mine. I really like the test manifold for the intake and exhaust valves. See you next time.
Thanks Dick - I see you are managing to make steady progress with your little Frodo despite other demands on your time. I hope those chipmunks are behaving themselves!
All the best.
Andrew
I’m learning
Hi Andrew, I think you got everybody's attention with that, you should of issued a public health warning for those of a nervous disposition..... 😂
Great video can't wait to see the end result.....
Thanks Mark - WARNING added! Ha ha.
Cheers
Andrew
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers Craig!
Thanks Andrew. I enjoyed that.
Cheers Don!
Hi Andrew, another inspiring video. Thank you. I couldn't help noticing that the exhaust valve spring had what looked like quite a few bound coils, and it didn't look too far from getting fully "coil bound".
Hi Steve. Yeah, making springs isn't one of my strong points. I think it will be OK as there is plenty of space between valve seats when it's in the open position. Worse case I could make another with fewer coils. Something for me to check on when doing final assembly.
Cheers
Andrew
youre so good at this.
Hi Emma - my lucky day!
Cheers
Andrew
Gday Andrew, the valves really turned out great, always enjoy your videos mate, Cheers
Cheers Matty!
“ Bottled it” 😂 txs, you just expanded my English.
Another great video, thank you.
Cheers David!
Thank you for another very watchable video. And it made me jump! Too funny. Thanks again
Thanks Johnny!
I think you can use BRASSO as a fine lapping compound. Easy to clean after use.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've used Brasso in the past and it's pretty decent for fine lapping. However, I tend to use fine and ultra fine lapping paste made by Moleroda.
Cheers
Andrew
Now I have got back into my seat - think I ducked! Great.
Ha ha - thanks John. Maybe I need to pin a User WARNING message somewhere.
Cheers
Andrew
Well done Andrew, be careful with your spring winding, see how it whipped. I will personally email you with pictures and sizes of a hand spring winder. It has a friction pad to tension the wire and a tapered guide plate to save you keep guessing the pitch. Easy to make, as an apprentice it was one of the training school exercises for my toolbox. Regards from Australia.
Hey thanks Dave - that would be a nice little project for me to have a go at. I've just got a TIG welder, so having some fun with that today.
All the best.
Andrew
If you keep this up you'll be making trumpets next project.😉
Ha ha Chris. More like a V-twin I hope.
Cheers
Andrew
Another great video! Have you seen the Hemingway spring winder kit? I haven’t got one, but saw somebody use one and it seemed to give good results.
Thanks - and thanks for the info - I'll check it out.
Cheers
Andrew
Can you use the carriage feed (for screw cutting) and hold the wire in an adapted tool holder?
Hi Pierre - I think that is definitely possible and a great method to produce several identical springs. However, I hate messing around changing gear ratios on my lathe. For me it was a lot easier just using a mandrel. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Cheers
Andrew
Very entertaining, well produced video and great work. Those valves must be considered perfect being airtight like that.
What a valve arrangement versus the cylinder. It must have been very inefficient.
Working for a reputated car manufactorer I remember the engine designers talking about inlets/outlets, how the engingin is breathing. This engine must have been briething like having a serious lung desease....
Hi Stefan - I agree - it's a really strange design. I just hope it manages to run OK and not like a three legged dog!
Cheers
Andrew
Thanks Andrew for more great stuff. I wonder though wether you nuttered the valve stems. When you are drilling the 0.060" hole you say that you have cut the stems to length and later you face the valve head thus presumably ending up with a short valve.
Cheers,
John
Hi John - I think you might be correct. I guess that they could be a few thou short of spec but it isn't a critical measurement. There is plenty of distance between valve seats when they are in the open position. The link to the exhaust valve is also adjustable, so I don't think it will be a problem. When I take it apart prior to the final assembly I will check it out of curiosity.
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Andrew, excellent job and great result 1st time. What compressor are you running, it is incredibly quiet? Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jon - it's relatively cheap compressor I used for airbrushing on the woodturning lathe. It's an AS186 with a pressure tank on top. I think it can get beyond 60psi. There are versions without a tank, but they will run all the time. It's OK for very light work. It wouldn't be powerful enough to run proper air tools.
Cheers
Andrew
G’day Andrew. Excellent result well done. How did you fix the keepers in place, you didn’t explain?
Cheers
Peter
Hi Peter. For the keepers I reduced some round brass bar just greater then the spring od. I then reduced 1/32" of the od to a dimension just smaller than the id of the spring. Then I drilled through 1/8". I think I parted them off to an overall width of 3/32". The keepers were held in place by a split pin pushed through the 40 thou hole I drilled in the stem at the beginning of the video.
Cheers
Andrew
That first air leak didn’t seem hard to find , ha ha 😂 ! Great job on the valves , any concerns about the silver solder
in regards to the heat when the engine is running ?
Ha ha thanks mate! I think the melting point of silver solder is around 600°C (~1,100°F). If my little engine gets close to that temperature I think I will have other things to think about- like looking for the fire extinguisher ha ha.
All the best.
Andrew
Haha I jumped when that hose let go. Andrew why the difference in the valve spring sizes and pressure??
Ha ha - me too! The hit and miss engines operate the exhaust valve via a link from the cam gear. When hitting a certain speed the governor will kick in and stop the link from closing - keeping the exhaust halve open. With the exhaust valve open, the engine will loose all compression and coast along until the revs reduce to a certain level. The exhaust valve will the close.
The inlet valve has no physical link to open/close it. When the exhaust valve is closed and the engine returns on the intake stroke, it generates lots of suction. It is the suction that opens the inlet valve and lets fuel into the cylinder. If the intake valve spring is too strong, the suction on the down stroke will not be enough to open it - so it will be starved of fuel. If the inlet valve spring is too weak it will not close the valve properly on the upward stroke and compression will be lost.
This method makes for a far simpler engine design, but it would not work well with higher revving and more powerful engines.
I think that getting the inlet valve spring to be the correct strength is one of the most important aspects of hit and miss engines. I think my inlet valve spring is a little on the weak side, but we will have to see how it turns out in real life. The way in which the inlet valve operates, often creates a 'snorting' sound which is a familiar aspect of these engines.
I hope that helps explain my limited understanding of how they work.
Cheers
Andrew
Thx Andrew. I understand now 👍
An explosive episode!😂 Very impressed with how those valves have seated. How did you stop the valve heads sliding down the shafts when you soldered them?
Hi Tim. I should have mentioned in the video that I use a little centre punch to reduce the inside diameter at the top of the hole in each head. That stops them from sliding down and allows for some machining off the top of the head.
I can't believe how well they have seated either. My machining skills must have improved - or maybe it was just my lucky day!
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal A neat trick. I do recall you doing that before now you mention it. There is truth in that old saying 'The more I know the luckier I get'.
👍👍👍👍👍
👍👍👍👍👍😀
Lookin good! Enjoyed watching.
Thanks John!