Hand Sewing 18th Century Stays, Part 1
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- Опубліковано 29 лип 2020
- I hope you found this video useful! Let me know in the comments if you have any questions.
Part 2 can be viewed here: • Hand Sewing 18th Centu...
Stays and Corsets by Mandy Barrington: bookshop.org/a/13854/97811380... (affiliate link)
Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh (the original source of the pattern in Stays and Corsets): bookshop.org/a/13854/97811386... (affiliate link)
Material sources:
Linen fabric, tape, and thread: burnleyandtrowbridge.com
Reed caning: wmboothdraper.com
The wool fashion fabric was gifted to me, so I don't have a source for that fabric.
My blog: graciesews.wordpress.com
My Instagram: graciesews...
Oli's Instagram: paleooli?h...
Music: "Osprey" and "Great Blue Heron" by Chad Crouch
Badge Fairy flying by - I've dropped a little 'patten' for you!
Thank you! Do I have to do anything else for people to get the badge?
@@GraciePattenSewing nope I took care of all of it! Enjoy!
@@KacyBurchfield Thank you so much! This is so cool!
thanks but I haven't seen it yet.
Just finished but I didn't see it. Have I finally gone mad?
I love how you kept going every time you ran into a issue. Part of the reason I really love videos from the CosTube community is because they tend to show the process "warts and all" using slightly different ways colored thread and having to trim your bones may have stopped some people in their tracks, but you acknowledged the issues and kept going!
I just love that you were able to whip out a pair and be like, "Yeah, I sewed these on a machine and they're already falling apart." I've made several pairs of stays myself, but the straight forward way you approach hand sewing them makes me think that perhaps I'm making them more complicated than they need to be. I'm totally inspired to dive back in and try again by hand. Thanks for putting together a lovely video for us.
Thank you! The machine sewn stays were constructed in like two days with poor materials (craft store ribbon binding), which definitely didn't help their lifespan.
This was such an amazing video! I have always wanted a historically accurate corset/stays and have watched hundreds of Corset making videos only to feel inadequate. This video has inspired me more than others that maybe I will actually do it! Thank you for the inspiration
Oh my goodness thank you so much! Good luck if you decide to make a pair of stays!
This was terrific, I love how you inserted the boning into the horizontal channels between different layers than the vertical ones.
"Don't laugh"
XD I was fine until you pointed it out. Beautifully filmed and explained
New subscriber here ❣️. How old are you? I’m 47 and I’m just blown away by so many young girls sewing by hand. Keep it up girls. These essential skills can not be forgotten
This really makes me want to make a pair of handsewn stays. I've made stays before but they're made of cheap modern fabric and machine sewed. I never thought I would be skilled enough to handsew a pair but I'm becoming more confident in my handsewing abilities. This video was super helpful, especially the fabric examples. I'll definitely be watching part 2.
5:18 "Piecing is Period" as said by many other costubers
I’m glad I found you through cocovid!
I think the ideal combination for sewing is to use a machine for invisible seams or for seams where it will be stronger. But I am in live with historical finishing of garments. I think it’s the finishing that is where I turn historical xx
Thank you for this clear explination of what you're doing : )
I’ve put off making a set of stays for a long time, but your videos make the task seem do-able. I purchased the Larkin and Smith pattern and have begun, though I am referring to your videos often. Thanks!
good luck!!!
Love the projects and especially the teapot! NO STAMP ACT! Awesome!
thanks!
I'm so glad to cocovid for making it possible to get to know your channel! You're so talented and charming! I've been watching/listening to your videos while sewing for a week now haha
Thank you! I'm glad you're liking my videos!
I also love sewing stays! Though the mockup process is definitely not my favourite part, more of a necessary evil i guess haha
Gracie, this was beautifully shot and taught. Such a peaceful video! It's clear that you are knowledgable and experienced in staymaking, and have a passion for this beautiful craft.
My sewing machine tapped out, so here I am cause I plan on finshing the corset I'm working on by hand
oof good luck! you got this!
Beautiful work! I can't wait for the next video!
Thank you so much, I’m working on hand sewn stays with my daughter and this video has been helpful for the two of us! 💕
So gorgeous, looking forward to the next video!
You are very talented I love your stitching and it's very easy to follow what you're doing
thank you!
Really enjoyed this video! I love how much care and work you can see in each of the stays you've made. Thank you for sharing
Videos about stays are kind of my favorite. ♥️
That was so great, Gracie! Your stitches looked so beautiful. I also really enjoy making 18th Century stays so I totally get it!
Nice work!
Thank you!
Very, interesting, especially because I'm working on my very first pair of stays right now. I'm looking forward to part 2!
I love that fabric color!
I love that you showed how to problem solve an issue. This is really helpful! This video made me inspired to try hand sewing stays!
I have now watched this twice. It is so well presented and I really appreciate your expertise and that you shared it with us! Happy cocovid. May you be well and supported.
They're not even done yet and they already look so amazing! Great work, and thanks for the wonderful video :)
I caught mention of your video on the B&T video about stays materials and I'm so excited you posted! I'm working on my first pair of stays, and plan to hand stich as well, so it's nice to see your method. 😁
I aspire to stitching as neat and even as yours! You’ve definitely given me a goal to strive toward! They could almost be machine stitched, they look so even. It’s wondrous to look upon, truly.
Im planning on making stays for my next historical project this will help so much!!
Beautiful work! Your voice is confident and clear, and the way you explain is concise. Brilliant!
Outstanding video. You presented well and your explanations were thorough and easy to understand. The only thing that I would have liked to see would be some of how the pattern was developed. Nice work!!
Thanks! That's a good suggestion - I plan on making another pair of stays soon so I'll try to include more about the pattern!
This is so peaceful to watch! And very helpful - showing your mistakes is making this so much easier for complete beginners in stay-making, like me. I now what to look for and what to be careful of, now!
Wow glad I found your channel.☺️
Lovely video, thank you so much! I keep getting scared about stays, but a great video like this shows me that it is possible to create something beautiful! You have wonderful handsewing skills, goals!
Wow! What a lovely video! Love the calm vibes, love your way of describing the process :) I see your channel is young, but already your videos look very professional and are really enchanting. Good luck to you and lots of very much deserved growth to the channel! Looking forward to seeing more of your work :)
Thank you! My SO has been editing the videos and filmed some of the clips, so they are to thank for how pretty the videos look (they're very talented).
Loved everything about this video!! The style and directions were fantastic. Happy to be a new subscriber via CoCovid.
subscribed! lovely hand work great job making stays less intimidating
I'm so excited to make some of these for myself!!!
Yay! Best of luck when you decide to make stays! :)
Thanks so much!!! I have a pattern for 18th century stays, but was too chicken to start it because I didn't know what to do first. This will be so helpful!!!
I'm glad to hear that! You got this!
This was a very lovely and calming video. Thank you! I do have one question though - when you're referring to '18th century', where exactly do you mean? Are all of the styles of example stays you showed from the same place?
I'm glad to hear that! These stays are based on the draft in the book Stays and Corsets, which is based on Norah Waugh's reprint of Diderot's draft of stays from 1776, so I guess you could say these stays are French. That being said, they're reasonably similar to stays from other parts of Europe. Thanks for this question, I should have clarified that in the video!
I love this video!
Vielen lieben Dank für die tollen Videos. Leider kann ich kein Englisch, aber es ist trotz allem hilfreich.😅
I’m excited about this video! I’m working on my first pair of 17th century stayed and almost done with hopefully my final mock up! I can’t wait to see if you do things differently I love stays!!! Edit: On my second panel I had a lot of shifting as well I assumed it was because of how I was holding the fabric essentially causing a pad stitching type of effect
17th century stays sound so cool! I think Morgan Donner has a video about making 17th c stays, if you want a video with more period-specific information. Such a pretty silhouette!
Gracie Patten I’m using the same extant inspiration as Morgan, but with whatever fabric I have around, I’m also using different drafting and fitting methods. Patterns of fashion 5 has some really neat info on how patterns were drafted. Because of my uncommon proportions I decided to try out one of these methods for myself. I’m super excited about it. I’m also bummed I didn’t film it since I haven’t seen anyone else try this type of drafting yet.
Gracie Patten I just found one fantastic example of drafting practice on Timesmith dress making. This is also not the exactly same as how I did mine but I did reference it when making alterations. I can’t recall if Bernadette used this method to help with her Victorian corset but I’m sure I had that project in the back of my mind while I worked on drafting and fitting.
Thank you so much for this video! i've always wanted to try my hand at stay making, but its always felt too daunting. I think Im going to muster up some courage and attempt a pair now! I was also wondering in reference to the boning, if you treated the reed before placing it in the stays or if you placed the reed as is?
I didn't do anything to the reed besides cutting it down to size. Good luck with your stays! You've got this!
this was such a lovely and calming video to watch. definitely makes stays seems less daunting when i see the amazing work youve put into your stays. i was wondering as a beginner getting into historical sewing i want to build up my skills before i attempt stays but i was wondering when i get there what do you think is the best pattern to follow for a first time stays maker? xx
I'm glad you liked the video! I'd start by making a shift, the garment that goes under stays. There are lots of tutorials online and on youtube; I like Cait Willoughby's tutorial for an 18th century shift. For a stays pattern, I'd choose one that's in a style you like. I think J. P. Ryan has a pattern for stays similar to these ones. You could make a wearable mockup by machine to get used to the process before making your final version. I hope this helps!
I can't wait to see how these turn out! How long does it usually take you to complete a pair of stays by hand? And do you have a problem with reeds breaking? I have always heard that they can be brittle when used in stays.
I've never counted the hours, but I estimate it takes me about 100 hours? I'm definitely not as fast as an 18th century stay maker. I've had a few issues with reeds breaking, but that has usually happened if I stuff them too hastily into a suitcase or once while riding a city bus in stays.
@@GraciePattenSewing is there a way to replace a broken reed? Or do you just leave it broken?
If you leave it broken, does it have much of an impact on the stays while wearing them?
@@lungsnlipslockd The reeds I've broken haven't had an effect on the stays. If they did, I would probably remove the binding at that spot, replace the broken reed, and then reattach the binding.
Hi. Loved you video, can't wait for the next one. I think this videos are going to become one of my go to for stay making. Just one question, for us that are doing the badge game, do you have any bagde in your videos? Love from Portugal.
I'm glad the video was helpful! I don't have any badges for CoCoVid.
This was a lovely video! I'm wondering if you can go into more detail about the choice of fabric for your four layers - why is layer 2 a checked linen and layer 3 a coarse linen?
I chose the checked linen because I had some extra - I would have used plain linen if I had extra of that! The coarse linen is used because it's pretty strong, and extant examples often have at least one inner layer of a heavy weight linen like that one. I think it may be more accurate to sandwich the bones between two layers of heavy linen, but I cut these stays out months ago (like 6 months before I started sewing), so I'm not entirely sure why I chose layer 2 to be the checked linen as opposed to the coarse linen. Hope this helps!
It does, thanks!
This is an incredible measure of patience, and very beautifully done.
Question. The top layer had boning to help reinforce the vertical stays? I didn’t realize that but it makes sense. How do you sew those channels without the other channels getting sewn shut, or where do you skip the thread so it’s hidden? Thank you!
Thank you! The horizontal boning is there to add more support to the bust. To stitch those channels, first I drew them on with a pencil, then only stitched where it wouldn't block off another channel, if that makes sense.
Thank you so much for this incredibly enjoyable video!
Not on topic in the strictest sense, but may I ask about the teapot in the thumbnail?
Thank you! The teapot is a reproduction 18th century tea pot that I got for Christmas some years ago. I think the original is held by Mt. Vernon. I find it kind of charming, and it's a big enough tea pot for the amount of tea I drink lol.
Fantastic timing! I just had my reed delivered and the other necessary items. I am looking at trying to duplicate the Elizabeth stays. Do you soak the reed to make it more pliable? I'm worried about the pattern fitting me. Do you ever make mockups with 2 layers?
I don't soak the reed before using it, but that may be a good idea. I don't know much about Elizabethan stays/bodies, but if I were making a pair, I might make a two layer mockup. I usually just make a cardboard mockup though.
Love it, I'm about to embark on this challenge and this was super helpful and just an all around lovely video. Question, do you make the linen thread with beeswax or is that something you can buy easily?
Oooh good luck! I buy linen thread from Burnley and Trowbridge and then coat it in beeswax by sliding the thread through the beeswax. I found the beeswax at a candle making supply store, but I've also used melted down honeycomb from a jar of honey and I think Burnley and Trowbridge sells blocks of beeswax. One block will last you a lifetime.
Wow you're truly awesome! I loved this video. I have one question. How do I make the stays fit me?I mean I have a pattern and how do I adjust it to me or know which size I am for stays? (Because I don't want them to be to big or to small)
Thank you! I don't know if I can answer this fully in a comment (maybe I'll make a video about it in the future though), but I'll try to give some pointers. If you have a commercial pattern with sizing, cut out the size that best fits your measurements. If for example your bust fits size X but your waist fits size Y, you can connect the lines on the patterns' sizes, cutting out size X along the top of the stays and tapering to size Y at the waistline of the stays. Commercial patterns also have lines where you can lengthen or shorten the stays, so if you find that the stays are the wrong length after doing a mockup, you can lengthen or shorten them as needed. I'd look at extant images from whatever period you're aiming for to figure out where the bust (top of the stays) and where the waist (where the stays split into tabs) should sit on your body, then basing your lengthening and shortening on that. If you're using a pattern from a book based on an extant example (aka without sizing beyond the measurements of the original stays), you can widen/narrow or lengthen/shorten the pattern as needed to suit your measurements, then check your alterations with a mockup. Morgan Donner has a video about doing this to make a pair of 17th century stays, but the techniques are the same for the 18th century. Timesmith Dressmaking also has a video about fitting stays, and American Duchess has a blog post about altering commercial stays patterns to fit better. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have another question, and good luck making your stays!
@@GraciePattenSewing Thank you a lot! I was trying to figure this out and you solved the problem! I'm rly seeing forward for your videos.
Thank you for publishing and sharing this video. In this video you have defined the four layers used. You cut out the pattern pieces with seam allowance all around each piece. Then you sewed the boning channels and inserted reed boning. At this point you folded the seam allowance to the inside of each piece and stitched it down. Is this correct? Thank you again.
That is correct! I didn't actually add seam allowance to the top and bottom of the stays, though I really should have done so.
Loved the video! Thanks for putting your experience out into the world 💕 I was wondering, do you usually cut the center front panels on the straight grain or on the bias? I’m making my first pair and I’ve seen conflicting info about the grain lines for the panels
I've seen both on extant examples, so I'd recommend finding an extant version similar to what you're making in terms of decade and shape and follow what they did in the period. good luck!
@@GraciePattenSewing Thanks so much for the advice! Looking forward to the video tomorrow!
I’ve always been more intimidated by scaling a pattern to fit a certain person than the stitching itself. I’ve been making a 1920’s one hour dress on and off for the better part of a year now and come across all kinds of fitting issues.
Hi i love your videos. I'm new here and have left a subscription right away. I've sewed a couple of stays and I always have one problem. Do you have any advice how I can prevent the sticks always sticking out?
Thanks a lot all the best from Vienna;-)
I'm glad you like them! I think making the boning a little shorter than the channel prevents sticking out, but I'm gonna make another video about how to prevent bones from sticking through the binding and what to do if they are already sticking through soon!
@@GraciePattenSewing thank you very much
hi! I've just discovered your channel and I already love it! I have never made stays, but I would really like to. where can I find a pattern for them? thank you! Vitya x
thanks! As I mention in the video, I used a pattern from Mandy Barrington's book Stays and Corsets, but I also really like the Augusta Stays pattern by Scroop Patterns. Searching "Stays pattern" on Etsy will yield lots of other patterns to choose from.
Hi. this is super cool do you have any favorite patterns for stays?
I like this pattern a lot, and I really like the Augusta Stays by Scroop Patterns
That was some beautiful stitching - so even O__O
I do actually have a question: I heard a lot of people are soaking and ironing the reeds beforehand. Did you experience any of them snapping on you?
I had a few instances of reeds snapping as I was filling the channels (because the reeds were too wide in some cases), but I don't think any reeds have broken while wearing the stays.
Awesome Video, I've been meaning to make a pair of stays for ages. Quick Question, where did you get the pattern from? Did you do it yourself?
I drafted the pattern based using the instructions for Diderot's 1776 stays in Mandy Barrington's book "Stays and Corsets."
These turned out so beautiful! I was wondering though how many yards of fabric you used for each layer?
thank you! I used probably 1/2 a yard for each layer, but because my fabric widths were fairly wide (usually 60") I don't think I used all of the width of that half yard.
Oh ok great thank you! :)
What pattern did you use for these? From the books you have linked? They are gorgeous!! So inspiring! Also, how long does it take you to make a beautiful piece like this?
Thank you! The pattern is from Mandy Barrington's book Stays and Corsets, which I linked. These probably took 80-100 hours to make
I am curious about what kind of wool are you using? It looks to be a rather fine/lightweight wool
Yes, it's a fine wool twill. I believe that the origin is Italian, but I'm not sure. I'm afraid I don't have much more information beyond that, as the fabric was gifted to me.
Loves this! How many working hours do you think you spent making these stays? I'm thinking about starting some completely hand sewn ones and was wondering how long it might take me.
I'd estimate around 100 hours? It's hard to say though. I'm definitely not as fast as a stay maker in the period!
@@GraciePattenSewing WOw! Ok thanks for letting me know! Now I know a bit better what I'm getting myself into 😋
@@heatherbretsch8438 No problem! I should note that a lot of the work (stitching the channels) is pretty mindless and can be done watching TV/listening to a podcast/during a zoom meeting.
How does reed compare to synthetic beline and metal bones wearing (comfort) wise?
I've never worn stays with metal boning, but I imagine it would be pretty heavy (historically, stays rarely had metal, and the examples that do usually have only a few metal bones). Synthetic baleen is pretty comfortable, though it molds less well to the body. Synthetic baleen and reed are about equal comfort-wise, in my opinion, so the trade off is more for me a case of price (synthetic baleen is more expensive), durability (the reeds in stays can snap), and shaping (reed molds to the body really well).
@@GraciePattenSewing thank you very much, this was really helpful to me ^^
Do you have any tips for making marking your fabric go smoothly? I'm working on my first stays and have tried several different attempts at marking, all leave me frustrated and at a loss
I usually just use a pencil and a ruler. If you could pin your panels into something (e.g. a corkboard) with push pins that might help?
I will try that, thank you!
What thread do you use for your corset making? I don't think I can find it on your site.
I generally use two-ply linen thread from Burnley And Trowbridge.
I had always been a bit confused on the horizontal bones that go into stays. So they go into a totally different layer than the vertical ones?
It really depends. I put these in a different layer because I was afraid of the horizontal reeds breaking the vertical reeds, but I could also have made casings for the reeds and stitched them to the inside of the stays, similar to how I stitched in the linen reinforcements.
@@GraciePattenSewing ooh, I think I understand. Could you maybe do a quick video on how to put in horizontal bones, because I've recently made my first pair of stays by hand and since I'm pretty busty, I think I need some reinforcing in that area, lol.
@@StarSphere222 I don't know if I would make such a video in the near future, but Lindsay @the_whip_stitch on Instagram recently made a pair of stays with horizontal bones stitched to the inside of the stays. Her photos might be helpful!
@@GraciePattenSewing Thank you. I will take a look at her photos. :)
Also is there a badge for this video, in connection with CoCoVid?
nope
@@GraciePattenSewing Okay - The information is more valuable than a badge :)
The badge fairy stopped by and graced us with one, it's the top comment.
Does the wax on the thread melt when you iron the project?
I suppose so, but there's not enough wax on the thread for it to be noticeable! It's just a fine coating, and I think the wax soaks into the thread.
Thank you
How do you get the stitches so even?
Practice mostly, though the stitches aren't even across the stays (eg the stitches are longer on the back panels than the front panels lol)
can you please make a patterning video?
I'd like to eventually! Most of my stays are from existing patterns or drafting instructions from books, so I'd need to find a way to make sure I wasn't infringing anyone's copyrighted stay diagrams, but it's definitely a goal.
@@GraciePattenSewing i cant afford any books rn and patterns of fashion is at around 400 bucks nzd plus shipping right now so crossing my fingers hoping someone will make some good clear instructions on how to make a set of well fitting stays
I hope you do manage to at some stage! I love your videos!
@@humanwithaplaylist I understand that, and I hope I can make a drafting video! In the mean time, you might be able to find some fashion history books with patterns at the library. I was able to look at Patterns of Fashion from the library in my city, but that might be hit or miss depending on the public library system where you are. I've also seen Corsets and Crinolines as a free PDF online, which is how I access that book. Good luck!
A free pattern would be nice
Why 4 layers? 🤔
HI Gracie, would you be too opposed if I donate a badge you can use for your visitors made by me?
That would be super cool! Could you explain a little bit how it would work first though? Like where do I put the badge?
@@GraciePattenSewing WOnderful. I will send Kacy the badgefairy the little graphic and she will generate a code for you at www.badgecraft.eu. She will then post the code in your comments section in this vid for your visitors to use.
@@sc0ttishlass Okay thank you so much! That would be so cool!
h-h-hand sew...the entire garment?
yep - everything I make pre 1850 ish is hand sewn